Rambles in Normandy

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PART I.

PART II


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Every attempt has been made to replicate the original book as printed.

Some typographical errors have been corrected. A list follows the etext. No attempt has been made to correct or normalize the French orthography of the printed book.

The images have been moved from the middle of paragraphs to the closest paragraph break for ease of reading.

(etext transcriber’s note)

RAMBLES IN NORMANDY

WORKS OF
FRANCIS MILTOUN

The following, each 1 vol., library 12mo, cloth, gilt top, profusely illustrated. Net, $2.00; postpaid, $2.16

Rambles in Normandy

Rambles in Brittany

The Cathedrals and Churches of the Rhine

The following, each 1 vol., library 12mo, cloth, gilt top, profusely illustrated. Postpaid, $2.50

The Cathedrals of Northern France

The Cathedrals of Southern France

L. C. PAGE & COMPANY
New England Building, Boston, Mass.

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Mont St. Michel (See page 385)

Mont St. Michel

(See page 385)

R a m b l e s
in
N O R M A N D Y


B  y  F r a n c i s  M i l t o u n

With   Many   Illustrations

B y  B l a n c h e  M c M a n u s



colophon

Boston
L. C. PAGE & COMPANY
1906

Copyright, 1905
By L. C. Page & Company
(INCORPORATED)
——
All rights reserved

Published October, 1905

COLONIAL PRESS
Electrotyped and Printed by C. H. Simonds & Co.
Boston, U. S. A.

APOLOGIA

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THE following pages are not intended to be a record of all the historic and picturesque features of the ancient province of Normandy. The most that is claimed is that they are the record of a series of ramblings in and off the beaten tourist track, with the addition of a few facts of history and romance, which could not well be ignored.

The scheme of the book as set forth in the table of contents will explain this plan far better than any author’s apology; and will also explain why a more ample guide-book treatment is not given to the cities and large towns such as Rouen, the ancient Norman capital; Caen, the capital of Lower Normandy; and Dieppe, and Evreux. All this, and more, with much information of a varying nature from that set forth herein, is given by Joanne, Baedeker, and the local guide-books, which in France are unusually numerous and trustworthy.

These rambles, of the author and artist, extending over some years of wanderings and residence within the province, are, then, merely the record of personal experiences, of no very venturesome or exciting nature, combined with those half-hidden facts which only come to one through an intimate acquaintance.

To this has been added a certain amount of practical travel-talk, which, for some inexplicable reason, seems to have been omitted from the guide-books; and a series of appendices, maps, and plans, which should furnish the stay-at-home and the traveller alike with those facts of relative importance in connection with a favoured land often not at hand or readily accessible. Nor is there any attempt at exhaustiveness. On the contrary, the matter has been condensed as much as possible.

The illustrations are not so much a complete pictorial survey of this delightful part of old France, as an effort to depict the varying moods and characteristics which will best show its contrast to the other provinces; always with an eye to the picturesque and pleasing aspect of a landscape, a detail of architecture, or the quaint dress and customs of the people.

CONTENTS

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CHAPTER   PAGE
PART I.
I. Introductory 3
II. The Roads of France 20
III. The Forests of France 38
IV. A Travel Chapter 49
PART II.
I. The Province and Its People 73
II. Norman Industries 101
III. Manners and Customs of the Country-side 113
IV. The ChÂteaux of Other Days 136
V. Some Types of Norman Architecture 150
PART III.
I. The Seine Valley—Preamble 157
II. The Seine below Rouen 171
III. The Seine from Rouen to Pont de l’Arche 203
IV. The Seine from Pont de l’Arche to La Roche-Guyon 229
V. In the Valley of the Eure 262
VI. The Pays de Caux 286
VII. The Coast Westward of the Seine 314
VIII. The Cotentin 361
IX. The Norman Country-side 393
  Appendices 427
  Index of Places: A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, Y 443

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE
Mont St. Michel (See page 385) Frontispiece
A Diligence 21
Road Placques, Touring Club de France 28
Road Signs in France 30
A Berline de Poste 33
Explanation of the Maps of the Etat Major 36
Lyons-le-ForÊt facing 44
Chapelle Ste. Catherine 47
Map of Normandy facing 48
A Woman of Normandy facing 84
Harvest-time in Normandy facing 104
Norman Horses facing 106
Raising the Sugar-beet 111
A Norman Farmhouse facing 128
A Peasant’s Cart 134
Donjon of Arques (Diagram) 138
ChÂteau Gaillard, Les Andelys facing 138
Ancient Manor d’Argouges 146
An Inn by the Seine facing 158
Cape de la HÈve 173
Towboats on the Seine 181
Quay of Caudebec-en-Caux facing 184
JumiÈges facing 188
The Arms of Agnes Sorel 189
A Rouen CafÉ 199
Rouen from Bon Secours facing 210
Some Seine Sketches 214
Pont de l’Arche facing 222
Ancient Plan of ChÂteau Gaillard 239
The Seine at Petit Andelys facing 240
Collegiate Church, Ecouis facing 244
Gisors facing 246
A Seine Hamlet 249
The Two ChÂteaux of La Roche-Guyon facing 260
HÔtel Du Grand Cerf, Louviers facing 264
Garennes facing 272
Song of the Pays de Caux (Music) 287
A Pigeon-house 289
The Harbour of FÉcamp facing 294
The Cliffs of Yport facing 296
TrÉport facing 304
A Cauchoise of YvetÔt 312
Honfleur facing 318
In the Cider-apple Country 323
A Norman Cider-press facing 326
Dives-sur-Mer facing 334
Tower of Gens d’Armes 338
Cloister of the Capucin Convent, Caen facing 340
Tinchebray 343
Walled Farm 346
Port-en-Bessin 348
Old Wooden Houses, Lisieux facing 350
ChÂteau of Falaise (Plan) 351
Donjon of Falaise facing 352
Street Under the Church of the Trinity, Falaise 356
A Cotentine facing 360
Millet’s Home, Gruchy 365
The Rock of Granville facing 380
Bay of Mont St. Michel (Map) 384
Mont St. Michel in 1657 385
Porte du Roi, Mont St. Michel facing 386
Clock Tower, Vire 392
In the Church of Ste. Foy, Conches facing 400
Rugles 403
The Apiary of La Trappe facing 408
ChÂteau d’AlenÇon 413
Argentan 416
Market-place, Neubourg 417
Abbey of Bec-Hellouin 420
Interior of Abbey of Bernay 424
The Provinces of France (Map) 427
Itinerary of Normandy, I. (Map) 433
Itinerary of Normandy, II. (Map) 434
Profile Map of Normandy 435
The Coast of Normandy (Map) 436
Natural Curiosities of Normandy (Map) 437
Architectural Curiosities of Normandy (Map) 438
Road Map, Normandy Coast 439
Road Map, the Seine Valley 440
Road Map, Across Normandy 441


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