Rambles in Brittany

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PART I.

PART II.


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Every attempt has been made to replicate the original book as printed.

Some typographical errors have been corrected. No attempt has been made to correct or normalize the printed accentuation or spelling of French names or words.

The images have been moved from the middle of a paragraph to the closest paragraph break.

(etext transcriber’s note)

RAMBLES IN BRITTANY

WORKS OF
FRANCIS MILTOUN

The following, each 1 vol., library 12mo, cloth, gilt top, profusely illustrated. Net, $2.00; postpaid, $2.16

Rambles in Normandy

Rambles in Brittany

The Cathedrals and Churches of the Rhine

The following, each 1 vol., library 12mo, cloth, gilt top, profusely illustrated. Postpaid, $2.50

The Cathedrals of Northern France

The Cathedrals of Southern France

L. C. PAGE & COMPANY
New England Building, Boston, Mass.

Rambles
in
B R I T T A N Y


By Francis Miltoun

With Many Illustrations

By Blanche McManus



colophon

Boston
L. C. PAGE & COMPANY
1906

Copyright, 1905
By L. C. Page & Company
(INCORPORATED)
——
All rights reserved

Published October, 1905

COLONIAL PRESS
Electrotyped and Printed by C. H. Simonds & Co.
Boston, U. S. A.

APOLOGIA

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NO promise given to the hostess of one’s inn is alleged as an excuse for writing this book, but it is true that rosy, busy Madame X of the Soleil d’Or, in the fishing village in which the work received its final collation and revision, watched its growth for many a week, daily declaring her hope of some day receiving a volume containing “your impressions.” And, indeed, her hope shall not be vain, for one of the first copies shall be most speedily despatched to her. Moreover, the author and artist hope that it may be acceptable to her critical mind, for she is not likely to be lenient, though she knows full well that to the many authors and artists who make a refuge of her modest inn for months she owes her livelihood.

The book is a record of many journeys and many rambles by road and rail around the coast, and in no sense is it put forth either as a special or as a complete survey of things and matters Breton.

Many lights and shadows have been thrown upon the screen from various points, but the effort has been made to blend them all into a pleasing whole, which shall supplement the guide-books of convention.

It were not possible to do more than has been attempted within the limits of a volume such as this, and therefore many details of routes, and historical data of a relative sort, and a certain amount of topographical information have been scattered through the volume or placed in the appendix, in the belief that such information is greatly needed in a work attempting to purvey “travel talk” even in small measure.

Some of this knowledge is so little subject to change that it may well stand for all time, and, in these days of well-nigh universal travel, may be not thought out of place in a volume intended both for the armchair traveller and also for him who journeys by road and rail. That only a very limited quantity of such information can be included is a misfortune, inasmuch as such a handbook is often used when no other aid is accessible to the traveller.

Finally, the illustrative material, the large number of drawings of sights and scenes, of great architectural monuments, and of the dress of the people, is offered less as a complete pictorial survey than as a panorama of impressions received on and off the beaten track,—and more satisfying and truthful than the mere snap-shots of hurried travel.

In addition, many maps, plans, and diagrams should give many of the itineraries a lucidity often lacking in the usual railway maps.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER   PAGE
  Apologia v
PART I.
I. Introductory 3
II. The Province and the People 11
III. The Topography of the Province 33
IV. Travel Routes in Brittany 45
V. The Breton Tongue and Legend 59
VI. Manners and Customs 70
VII. The Fisheries 88
PART II.
I. The Loire in Brittany 99
II. Nantes To Vannes 116
III. The Morbihan—Vannes and the “Golfe” 140
IV. Auray and the Megalithic Monuments of
Morbihan
159
V. Morbihan—Lorient and Its Neighbourhood 179
VI. FinistÈre—South 187
VII. FinistÈre—North 221
VIII. The CÔtes du Nord 249
IX. The Emerald Coast 271
X. On the Road in Brittany—Mayenne,
FougÈres, Laval, and VitrÉ
309
XI. Rennes and Beyond 329
XII. Religious Festivals and Pardons 341
  Appendices 359
  Index: A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, J, K, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, V. 373

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE
Constable’s Tower, Vannes (See page 147) Frontispiece
The Loire at Nantes facing 4
Device of Anne of Brittany 17
Anne of Brittany 18
Breton Post-card 21
St. Brieuc facing 30
Croisic facing 42
Map of Brittany facing 44
The Main Roads of Brittany 48
Travel Routes in Brittany 55
St. Pol de LÉon facing 60
The Breton Tongue 62
Gilles de Laval 66
Young Bretons 78
From the Artist’s Sketch Book 80
La Coiffe Polka 81
Ironing Coifs 83
Breton Types 85
Douarnenez facing 88
Pornic 113
Donjon of Clisson facing 114
St. Nazaire 123
Ancient Fortifications of GuÉrande (Diagram) 126
ChÂteaubriant facing 128
Children of Redon 133
Tour d’Elven facing 138
Market-woman, Vannes 142
The Country near Vannes 143
Ancient City Walls, Vannes (Diagram) 147
ChÂteau of Suscino facing 148
General Plan of ChÂteau of Suscino (Diagram) 149
PloËrmel facing 152
Shrine of St. Etienne, Josselin 154
ChÂteau de Josselin facing 156
Interior of Market-house, Auray facing 160
Shrine of St. Roch, Auray 162
The Lines of Carnac 168
The Lines of Carnac facing 168
Map of Carnac and the Surrounding Country 170
Quiberon facing 172
Hennebont facing 182
QuimperlÉ facing 188
Market-house, FaouËt facing 192
Market-day 193
Rosporden 196
Stone Crucifix, Concarneau facing 198
Concarneau 199
Pont Aven facing 202
Environs of Pont Aven (Map) 204
From the Museum at Quimper 207
Cape de la ChÈvre facing 214
Woman of Chateaulin 217
Camaret facing 220
Landerneau facing 224
Calvary, Plougastel facing 228
Lighthouse of CrÉac’h, Ouessant facing 236
Roscoff 239
Ma Douez 244
Carved Wood Staircase, Morlaix facing 246
Procession of Sailors, St. Jean du Doigt 247
Old House, TrÉguier 253
House of Ernest Renan, TrÉguier 254
Shrine of St. Yves, TrÉguier 256
A Binou Player 261
Binic 267
Ramparts of St. Malo facing 272
House of Duguay-Trouin, St. Malo 281
Tower of Solidor, St. Servan facing 284
Plans of the Tower of Solidor 285
The Valley of the Rance (Map) 292
Duguesclin 293
Rez-de-ChaussÉe of Donjon, Dinan (Diagram) 295
Coif of Miniac 307
Mayenne facing 310
Plan of the Ancient Walls and Towers Of
FougÈres
314
Beucheresse Gate, Laval 319
Plan of VitrÉ in 1811, Showing City Walls 321
ChÂteau de VitrÉ facing 322
Tower of St. Martin, VitrÉ 323
ChÂteau de Rochers 325
Arms of Madame de SÉvignÉ 327
Monastery of St. MÉlaine, Rennes 331
Huelgoat facing 340
Pardon of St. Jean du Doigt facing 352
The Provinces of France (Map) 359
The Ancient Provinces of France (Map) 361
Comparative Metric Scale (Diagram) 364
Sketch Map of Circular Tour in Brittany 366
Architectural Names of the Various Parts Of
A Feudal ChÂteau
(Diagram)
367
Tide and Weather Signals in the Ports of
Brittany
(Diagram)
368


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