PREPARATION OF WORK

Preheating.--The practice of heating the metal around the weld before applying the torch flame is a desirable one for two reasons. First, it makes the whole process more economical; second, it avoids the danger of breakage through expansion and contraction of the work as it is heated and as it cools.

When it is desired to join two surfaces by welding them, it is, of course, necessary to raise the metal from the temperature of the surrounding air to its melting point, involving an increase in temperature of from one thousand to nearly three thousand degrees. To obtain this entire increase of temperature with the torch flame is very wasteful of fuel and of the operator's time. The total amount of heat necessary to put into metal is increased by the conductivity of that metal because the heat applied at the weld is carried to other parts of the piece being handled until the whole mass is considerably raised in temperature. To secure this widely distributed increase the various methods of preheating are adopted.

As to the second reason for preliminary heating. It is understood that the metal added to the joint is molten at the time it flows into place. All the metals used in welding contract as they cool and occupy a much smaller space than when molten. If additional metal is run between two adjoining surfaces which are parts of a surrounding body of cool metal, this added metal will cool while the surfaces themselves are held stationary in the position they originally occupied. The inevitable result is that the metal added will crack under the strain, or, if the weld is exceptionally strong, the main body of the work will be broken by the force of contraction. To overcome these difficulties is the second and most important reason for preheating and also for slow cooling following the completion of the weld.

There are many ways of securing this preheating. The work may be brought to a red heat in the forge if it is cast iron or steel; it may be heated in special ovens built for the purpose; it may be placed in a bed of charcoal while suitably supported; it may be heated by gas or gasoline preheating torches, and with very small work the outer flame of the welding torch automatically provides means to this end.

The temperature of the parts heated should be gradually raised in all cases, giving the entire mass of metal a chance to expand equally and to adjust itself to the strains imposed by the preheating. After the region around the weld has been brought to a proper temperature the opening to be filled is exposed so that the torch flame can reach it, while the remaining surfaces are still protected from cold air currents and from cooling through natural radiation.

One of the commonest methods and one of the best for handling work of rather large size is to place the piece to be welded on a bed of fire brick and build a loose wall around it with other fire brick placed in rows, one on top of the other, with air spaces left between adjacent bricks in each row. The space between the brick retaining wall and the work is filled with charcoal, which is lighted from below. The top opening of the temporary oven is then covered with asbestos and the fire kept up until the work has been uniformly raised in temperature to the desired point.

When much work of the same general character and size is to be handled, a permanent oven may be constructed of fire brick, leaving a large opening through the top and also through one side. Charcoal may be used in this form of oven as with the temporary arrangement, or the heat may be secured from any form of burner or torch giving a large volume of flame. In any method employing flame to do the heating, the work itself must be protected from the direct blast of the fire. Baffles of brick or metal should be placed between the mouth of the torch and the nearest surface of the work so that the flame will be deflected to either side and around the piece being heated.

The heat should be applied to bring the point of welding to the highest temperature desired and, except in the smallest work, the heat should gradually shade off from this point to the other parts of the piece. In the case of cast iron and steel the temperature at the point to be welded should be great enough to produce a dull red heat. This will make the whole operation much easier, because there will be no surrounding cool metal to reduce the temperature of the molten material from the welding rod below the point at which it will join the work. From this red heat the mass of metal should grow cooler as the distance from the weld becomes greater, so that no great strain is placed upon any one part. With work of a very irregular shape it is always best to heat the entire piece so that the strains will be so evenly distributed that they can cause no distortion or breakage under any conditions.

The melting point of the work which is being preheated should be kept in mind and care exercised not to approach it too closely. Special care is necessary with aluminum in this respect, because of its low melting temperature and the sudden weakening and flowing without warning. Workmen have carelessly overheated aluminum castings and, upon uncovering the piece to make the weld, have been astonished to find that it had disappeared. Six hundred degrees is about the safe limit for this metal. It is possible to gauge the exact temperature of the work with a pyrometer, but when this instrument cannot be procured, it might be well to secure a number of "temperature cones" from a chemical or laboratory supply house. These cones are made from material that will soften at a certain heat and in form they are long and pointed. Placed in position on the part being heated, the point may be watched, and when it bends over it is sure that the metal itself has reached a temperature considerably in excess of the temperature at which that particular cone was designed to soften.

The object in preheating the metal around the weld is to cause it to expand sufficiently to open the crack a distance equal to the contraction when cooling from the melting point. In the case of a crack running from the edge of a piece into the body or of a crack wholly within the body, it is usually satisfactory to heat the metal at each end of the opening. This will cause the whole length of the crack to open sufficiently to receive the molten material from the rod.

The judgment of the operator will be called upon to decide just where a piece of metal should be heated to open the weld properly. It is often possible to apply the preheating flame to a point some distance from the point of work if the parts are so connected that the expansion of the heated part will serve to draw the edges of the weld apart. Whatever part of the work is heated to cause expansion and separation, this part must remain hot during the entire time of welding and must then cool slowly at the same time as the metal in the weld cools.

Figure 25.--Preheating at A While Welding at B. C also May Be Heated.

An example of heating points away from the crack might be found in welding a lattice work with one of the bars cracked through (Figure 25). If the strips parallel and near to the broken bar are heated gradually, the work will be so expanded that the edges of the break are drawn apart and the weld can be successfully made. In this case, the parallel bars next to the broken one would be heated highest, the next row not quite so hot and so on for some distance away. If only the one row were heated, the strains set up in the next ones would be sufficient to cause a new break to appear.

Figure 26.--Cutting Through the Rim of a Wheel (Cut Shown at A)

If welding is to be done near the central portion of a large piece, the strains will be brought to bear on the parts farthest away from the center. Should a fly wheel spoke be broken and made ready to weld, the greatest strain will come on the rim of the wheel. In cases like this it is often desirable to cut through at the point of greatest strain with a saw or cutting torch, allowing free movement while the weld is made at the original break (Figure 26). After the inside weld is completed, the cut may be welded without danger, for the reason that it will always be at some point at which severe strains cannot be set up by the contraction of the cooling metal.

Figure 27.--Using a Wedge While Welding

In materials that will spring to some extent without breakage, that is, in parts that are not brittle, it may be possible to force the work out of shape with jacks or wedges (Figure 27) in the same way that it would be distorted by heating and expanding some portion of it as described. A careful examination will show whether this method can be followed in such a way as to force the edges of the break to separate. If the plan seems feasible, the wedges may be put in place and allowed to remain while the weld is completed. As soon as the work is finished the wedges should be removed so that the natural contraction can take place without damage.

It should always be remembered that it is not so much the expansion of the work when heated as it is the contraction caused by cooling that will do the damage. A weld may be made that, to all appearances, is perfect and it may be perfect when completed; but if provision has not been made to allow for the contraction that is certain to follow, there will be a breakage at some point. It is not possible to weld the simplest shapes, other than straight bars, without considering this difficulty and making provision to take care of it.

The exact method to employ in preheating will always call for good judgment on the part of the workman, and he should remember that the success or failure of his work will depend fully as much on proper preparation as on correct handling of the weld itself. It should be remembered that the outer flame of the oxy-acetylene torch may be depended on for a certain amount of preheating, as this flame gives a very large volume of heat, but a heat that is not so intense nor so localized as the welding flame itself. The heat of this part of the flame should be fully utilized during the operation of melting the metal and it should be so directed, when possible, that it will bring the parts next to be joined to as high a temperature as possible.

When the work has been brought to the desired temperature, all parts except the break and the surface immediately surrounding it on both sides should be covered with heavy sheet asbestos. This protecting cover should remain in place throughout the operation and should only be moved a distance sufficient to allow the torch flame to travel in the path of the weld. The use of asbestos in this way serves a twofold purpose. It retains the heat in the work and prevents the breakage that would follow if a draught of air were to strike the heated metal, and it also prevents such a radiation of heat through the surrounding air as would make it almost impossible for the operator to perform his work, especially in the case of large and heavy castings when the amount of heat utilized is large.

Cleaning and Champfering.--A perfect weld can never be made unless the surfaces to be joined have been properly prepared to receive the new metal.

All spoiled, burned, corroded and rough particles must positively be removed with chisel and hammer and with a free application of emery cloth and wire brush. The metal exposed to the welding flame should be perfectly clean and bright all over, or else the additional material will not unite, but will only stick at best.

Figure 28.--Tapering the Opening Formed by a Break

Following the cleaning it is always necessary to bevel, or champfer, the edges except in the thinnest sheet metal. To make a weld that will hold, the metal must be made into one piece, without holes or unfilled portions at any point, and must be solid from inside to outside. This can only be accomplished by starting the addition of metal at one point and gradually building it up until the outside, or top, is reached. With comparatively thin plates the molten metal may be started from the side farthest from the operator and brought through, but with thicker sections the addition is started in the middle and brought flush with one side and then with the other.

It will readily be seen that the molten material cannot be depended upon to flow between the tightly closed surfaces of a crack in a way that can be at all sure to make a true weld. It will be necessary for the operator to reach to the farthest side with the flame and welding rod, and to start the new surfaces there. To allow this, the edges that are to be joined are beveled from one side to the other (Figure 28), so that when placed together in approximately the position they are to occupy they will leave a grooved channel between them with its sides at an angle with each other sufficient in size to allow access to every point of each surface.

Figure 29.--Beveling for Thin Work

Figure 30.--Beveling for Thick Work

With work less than one-fourth inch thick, this angle should be forty-five degrees on each piece (Figure 29), so that when they are placed together the extreme edges will meet at the bottom of a groove whose sides are square, or at right angles, to each other. This beveling should be done so that only a thin edge is left where the two parts come together, just enough points in contact to make the alignment easy to hold. With work of a thickness greater than a quarter of an inch, the angle of bevel on each piece may be sixty degrees (Figure 30), so that when placed together the angle included between the sloping sides will also be sixty degrees. If the plate is less than one-eighth of an inch thick the beveling is not necessary, as the edges may be melted all the way through without danger of leaving blowholes at any point.

Figure 31.--Beveling Both Sides of a Thick Piece

Figure 32.--Beveling the End of a Pipe

This beveling may be done in any convenient way. A chisel is usually most satisfactory and also quickest. Small sections may be handled by filing, while metal that is too hard to cut in either of these ways may be shaped on the emery wheel. It is not necessary that the edges be perfectly finished and absolutely smooth, but they should be of regular outline and should always taper off to a thin edge so that when the flame is first applied it can be seen issuing from the far side of the crack. If the work is quite thick and is of a shape that will allow it to be turned over, the bevel may be brought from both sides (Figure 31), so that there will be two grooves, one on each surface of the work. After completing the weld on one side, the piece is reversed and finished on the other side. Figure 32 shows the proper beveling for welding pipe. Figure 33 shows how sheet metal may be flanged for welding.

Welding should not be attempted with the edges separated in place of beveled, because it will be found impossible to build up a solid web of new metal from one side clear through to the other by this method. The flame cannot reach the surfaces to make them molten while receiving new material from the rod, and if the flame does not reach them it will only serve to cause a few drops of the metal to join and will surely cause a weak and defective weld.

Figure 33.--Flanging Sheet Metal for Welding

Supporting Work.--During the operation of welding it is necessary that the work be well supported in the position it should occupy. This may be done with fire brick placed under the pieces in the correct position, or, better still, with some form of clamp. The edges of the crack should touch each other at the point where welding is to start and from there should gradually separate at the rate of about one-fourth inch to the foot. This is done so that the cooling of the molten metal as it is added will draw the edges together by its contraction.

Care must be used to see that the work is supported so that it will maintain the same relative position between the parts as must be present when the work is finished. In this connection it must be remembered that the expansion of the metal when heated may be great enough to cause serious distortion and to provide against this is one of the difficulties to be overcome.

Perfect alignment should be secured between the separate parts that are to be joined and the two edges must be held up so that they will be in the same plane while welding is carried out. If, by any chance, one drops below the other while molten metal is being added, the whole job may have to be undone and done over again. One precaution that is necessary is that of making sure that the clamping or supporting does not in itself pull the work out of shape while melted.

TORCH PRACTICE

Figure 34.--Rotary Movement of Torch in Welding

The weld is made by bringing the tip of the welding flame to the edges of the metals to be joined. The torch should be held in the right hand and moved slowly along the crack with a rotating motion, traveling in small circles (Figure 34), so that the Welding flame touches first on one side of the crack and then on the other. On large work the motion may be simply back and forth across the crack, advancing regularly as the metal unites. It is usually best to weld toward the operator rather than from him, although this rule is governed by circumstances. The head of the torch should be inclined at an angle of about 60 degrees to the surface of the work. The torch handle should extend in the same line with the break (Figure 35) and not across it, except when welding very light plates.

Figure 35.--Torch Held in Line with the Break

If the metal is 1/16 inch or less in thickness it is only necessary to circle along the crack, the metal itself furnishing enough material to complete the weld without additions. Heat both sides evenly until they flow together.

Material thicker than the above requires the addition of more metal of the same or different kind from the welding rod, this rod being held by the left hand. The proper size rod for cast iron is one having a diameter equal to the thickness of metal being welded up to a one-half inch rod, which is the largest used. For steel the rod should be one-half the thickness of the metal being joined up to one-fourth inch rod. As a general rule, better results will be obtained by the use of smaller rods, the very small sizes being twisted together to furnish enough material while retaining the free melting qualities.

Figure 36,--The Welding Rod Should Be Held in the Molten Metal

The tip of the rod must at all times be held in contact with the pieces being welded and the flame must be so directed that the two sides of the crack and the end of the rod are melted at the same time (Figure 36). Before anything is added from the rod, the sides of the crack are melted down sufficiently to fill the bottom of the groove and join the two sides. Afterward, as metal comes from the rod in filling the crack, the flame is circled along the joint being made, the rod always following the flame.

Figure 37.--Welding Pieces of Unequal Thickness

Figure 37 illustrates the welding of pieces of unequal thickness.

Figure 38 illustrates welding at an angle.

The molten metal may be directed as to where it should go by the tip of the welding flame, which has considerable force, but care must be taken not to blow melted metal on to cooler surfaces which it cannot join. If, while welding, a spot appears which does not unite with the weld, it may be handled by heating all around it to a white heat and then immediately welding the bad place.

Figure 38,--Welding at an Angle

Never stop in the middle of a weld, as it is extremely difficult to continue smoothly when resuming work.

The Flame.--The welding flame must have exactly the right proportions of each gas. If there is too much oxygen, the metal will be burned or oxidized; the presence of too much acetylene carbonizes the metal; that is to say, it adds carbon and makes the work harder. Just the right mixture will neither burn nor carbonize and is said to be a "neutral" flame. The neutral flame, if of the correct size for the work, reduces the metal to a melted condition, not too fluid, and for a width about the same as the thickness of the metal being welded.

When ready to light the torch, after attaching the right tip or head as directed in accordance with the thickness of metal to be handled, it will be necessary to regulate the pressure of gases to secure the neutral flame.

The oxygen will have a pressure of from 2 to 20 pounds, according to the nozzle used. The acetylene will have much less. Even with the compressed gas, the pressure should never exceed 10 pounds for the largest work, and it will usually be from 4 to 6. In low pressure systems, the acetylene will be received at generator pressure. It should first be seen that the hand-screws on the regulators are turned way out so that the springs are free from any tension. It will do no harm if these screws are turned back until they come out of the threads. This must be done with both oxygen and acetylene regulators.

Next, open the valve from the generator, or on the acetylene tank, and carefully note whether there is any odor of escaping gas. Any leakage of this gas must be stopped before going on with the work.

The hand wheel controlling the oxygen cylinder valve should now be turned very slowly to the left as far as it will go, which opens the valve, and it should be borne in mind the pressure that is being released. Turn in the hand screw on the oxygen regulator until the small pressure gauge shows a reading according to the requirements of the nozzle being used. This oxygen regulator adjustment should be made with the cock on the torch open, and after the regulator is thus adjusted the torch cock may be closed.

Open the acetylene cock on the torch and screw in on the acetylene regulator hand-screw until gas commences to come through the torch. Light this flow of acetylene and adjust the regulator screw to the pressure desired, or, if there is no gauge, so that there is a good full flame. With the pressure of acetylene controlled by the type of generator it will only be necessary to open the torch cock.

With the acetylene burning, slowly open the oxygen cock on the torch and allow this gas to join the flame. The flame will turn intensely bright and then blue white. There will be an outer flame from four to eight inches long and from one to three inches thick. Inside of this flame will be two more rather distinctly defined flames. The inner one at the torch tip is very small, and the intermediate one is long and pointed. The oxygen should be turned on until the two inner flames unite into one blue-white cone from one-fourth to one-half inch long and one-eighth to one-fourth inch in diameter. If this single, clearly defined cone does not appear when the oxygen torch cock has been fully opened, turn off some of the acetylene until it does appear.

If too much oxygen is added to the flame, there will still be the central blue-white cone, but it will be smaller and more or less ragged around the edges (Figure 39). When there is just enough oxygen to make the single cone, and when, by turning on more acetylene or by turning off oxygen, two cones are caused to appear, the flame is neutral (Figure 40), and the small blue-white cone is called the welding flame.

Figure 39.--Oxidizing Flame--Too Much Oxygen

Figure 40.--Neutral Flame

Figure 41.--Reducing Flame--Showing an Excess of Acetylene

While welding, test the correctness of the flame adjustment occasionally by turning on more acetylene or by turning off some oxygen until two flames or cones appear. Then regulate as before to secure the single distinct cone. Too much oxygen is not usually so harmful as too much acetylene, except with aluminum. (See Figure 41.) An excessive amount of sparks coming from the weld denotes that there is too much oxygen in the flame. Should the opening in the tip become partly clogged, it will be difficult to secure a neutral flame and the tip should be cleaned with a brass or copper wire--never with iron or steel tools or wire of any kind. While the torch is doing its work, the tip may become excessively hot due to the heat radiated from the molten metal. The tip may be cooled by turning off the acetylene and dipping in water with a slight flow of oxygen through the nozzle to prevent water finding its way into the mixing chamber.

The regulators for cutting are similar to those for welding, except that higher pressures may be handled, and they are fitted with gauges reading up to 200 or 250 pounds pressure.

In welding metals which conduct the heat very rapidly it is necessary to use a much larger nozzle and flame than for metals which have not this property. This peculiarity is found to the greatest extent in copper, aluminum and brass.

Should a hole be blown through the work, it may be closed by withdrawing the flame for a few seconds and then commencing to build additional metal around the edges, working all the way around and finally closing the small opening left at the center with a drop or two from the welding rod.

WELDING VARIOUS METALS

Because of the varying melting points, rates of expansion and contraction, and other peculiarities of different metals, it is necessary to give detailed consideration to the most important ones.

Characteristics of Metals.--The welder should thoroughly understand the peculiarities of the various metals with which he has to deal. The metals and their alloys are described under this heading in the first chapter of this book and a tabulated list of the most important points relating to each metal will be found at the end of the present chapter. All this information should be noted by the operator of a welding installation before commencing actual work.

Because of the nature of welding, the melting point of a metal is of great importance. A metal melting at a low temperature should have more careful treatment to avoid undesired flow than one which melts at a temperature which is relatively high. When two dissimilar metals are to be joined, the one which melts at the higher temperature must be acted upon by the flame first and when it is in a molten condition the heat contained in it will in many cases be sufficient to cause fusion of the lower melting metal and allow them to unite without playing the flame on the lower metal to any great extent.

The heat conductivity bears a very important relation to welding, inasmuch as a metal with a high rate of conductance requires more protection from cooling air currents and heat radiation than one not having this quality to such a marked extent. A metal which conducts heat rapidly will require a larger volume of flame, a larger nozzle, than otherwise, this being necessary to supply the additional heat taken away from the welding point by this conductance.

The relative rates of expansion of the various metals under heat should be understood in order that parts made from such material may have proper preparation to compensate for this expansion and contraction. Parts made from metals having widely varying rates of expansion must have special treatment to allow for this quality, otherwise breakage is sure to occur.

Cast Iron.--All spoiled metal should be cut away and if the work is more than one-eighth inch in thickness the sides of the crack should be beveled to a 45 degree angle, leaving a number of points touching at the bottom of the bevel so that the work may be joined in its original relation.

The entire piece should be preheated in a bricked-up oven or with charcoal placed on the forge, when size does not warrant building a temporary oven. The entire piece should be slowly heated and the portion immediately surrounding the weld should be brought to a dull red. Care should be used that the heat does not warp the metal through application to one part more than the others. After welding, the work should be slowly cooled by covering with ashes, slaked lime, asbestos fibre or some other non-conductor of heat. These precautions are absolutely essential in the case of cast iron.

A neutral flame, from a nozzle proportioned to the thickness of the work, should be held with the point of the blue-white cone about one-eighth inch from the surface of the iron.

A cast iron rod of correct diameter, usually made with an excess of silicon, is used by keeping its end in contact with the molten metal and flowing it into the puddle formed at the point of fusion. Metal should be added so that the weld stands about one-eighth inch above the surrounding surface of the work.

Various forms of flux may be used and they are applied by dipping the end of the welding rod into the powder at intervals. These powders may contain borax or salt, and to prevent a hard, brittle weld, graphite or ferro-silicon may be added. Flux should be added only after the iron is molten and as little as possible should be used. No flux should be used just before completion of the work.

The welding flame should be played on the work around the crack and gradually brought to bear on the work. The bottom of the bevel should be joined first and it will be noted that the cast iron tends to run toward the flame, but does not stick together easily. A hard and porous weld should be carefully guarded against, as described above, and upon completion of the work the welded surface should be scraped with a file, while still red hot, in order to remove the surface scale.

Malleable Iron.--This material should be beveled in the same way that cast iron is handled, and preheating and slow cooling are equally desirable. The flame used is the same as for cast iron and so is the flux. The welding rod may be of cast iron, although better results are secured with Norway iron wire or else a mild steel wire wrapped with a coil of copper wire.

It will be understood that malleable iron turns to ordinary cast iron when melted and cooled. Welds in malleable iron are usually far from satisfactory and a better joint is secured by brazing the edges together with bronze. The edges to be joined are brought to a heat just a little below the point at which they will flow and the opening is then quickly-filled from a rod of Tobin bronze or manganese bronze, a brass or bronze flux being used in this work.

Wrought Iron or Semi-Steel.--This metal should be beveled and heated in the same way as described for cast iron. The flame should be neutral, of the same size as for steel, and used with the tip of the blue-white cone just touching the work. The welding rod should be of mild steel, or, if wrought iron is to be welded to steel, a cast iron rod may be used. A cast iron flux is well suited for this work. It should be noted that wrought iron turns to ordinary cast iron if kept heated for any length of time.

Steel.--Steel should be beveled if more than one-eighth inch in thickness. It requires only a local preheating around the point to be welded. The welding flame should be absolutely neutral, without excess of either gas. If the metal is one-sixteenth inch or less in thickness, the tip of the blue-white cone must be held a short distance from the surface of the work; in all other cases the tip of this cone is touched to the metal being welded.

The welding rod may be of mild, low carbon steel or of Norway iron. Nickel steel rods may be used for parts requiring great strength, but vanadium alloys are very difficult to handle. A very satisfactory rod is made by twisting together two wires of the required material. The rod must be kept constantly in contact with the work and should not be added until the edges are thoroughly melted. The flux may or may not be used. If one is wanted, it may be made from three parts iron filings, six parts borax and one part sal ammoniac.

It will be noticed that the steel runs from the flame, but tends to hold together. Should foaming commence in the molten metal, it shows an excess of oxygen and that the metal is being burned.

High carbon steels are very difficult to handle. It is claimed that a drop or two of copper added to the weld will assist the flow, but will also harden the work. An excess of oxygen reduces the amount of carbon and softens the steel, while an excess of acetylene increases the proportion of carbon and hardens the metal. High speed steels may sometimes be welded if first coated with semi-steel before welding.

Aluminum.--This is the most difficult of the commonly found metals to weld. This is caused by its high rate of expansion and contraction and its liability to melt and fall away from under the flame. The aluminum seems to melt on the inside first, and, without previous warning, a portion of the work will simply vanish from in front of the operator's eyes. The metal tends to run from the flame and separate at the same time. To keep the metal in shape and free from oxide, it is worked or puddled while in a plastic condition by an iron rod which has been flattened at one end. Several of these rods should be at hand and may be kept in a jar of salt water while not being used. These rods must not become coated with aluminum and they must not get red hot while in the weld.

The surfaces to be joined, together with the adjacent parts, should be cleaned thoroughly and then washed with a 25 per cent solution of nitric acid in hot water, used on a swab. The parts should then be rinsed in clean water and dried with sawdust. It is also well to make temporary fire clay moulds back of the parts to be heated, so that the metal may be flowed into place and allowed to cool without danger of breakage.

Aluminum must invariably be preheated to about 600 degrees, and the whole piece being handled should be well covered with sheet asbestos to prevent excessive heat radiation.

The flame is formed with an excess of acetylene such that the second cone extends about an inch, or slightly more, beyond the small blue-white point. The torch should be held so that the end of this second cone is in contact with the work, the small cone ordinarily used being kept an inch or an inch and a half from the surface of the work.

Welding rods of special aluminum are used and must be handled with their end submerged in the molten metal of the weld at all times.

When aluminum is melted it forms alumina, an oxide of the metal. This alumina surrounds small masses of the metal, and as it does not melt at temperatures below 5000 degrees (while aluminum melts at about 1200), it prevents a weld from being made. The formation of this oxide is retarded and the oxide itself is dissolved by a suitable flux, which usually contains phosphorus to break down the alumina.

Copper.--The whole piece should be preheated and kept well covered while welding. The flame must be much larger than for the same thickness of steel and neutral in character. A slight excess of acetylene would be preferable to an excess of oxygen, and in all cases the molten metal should be kept enveloped with the flame. The welding rod is of copper which contains phosphorus; and a flux, also containing phosphorus, should be spread for about an inch each side of the joint. These assist in preventing oxidation, which is sure to occur with heated copper.

Copper breaks very easily at a heat slightly under the welding temperature and after cooling it is simply cast copper in all cases.

Brass and Bronze.--It is necessary to preheat these metals, although not to a very high temperature. They must be kept well covered at all times to prevent undue radiation. The flame should be produced with a nozzle one size larger than for the same thickness of steel and the small blue-white cone should be held from one-fourth to one-half inch above the surface of the work. The flame should be neutral in character.

A rod or wire of soft brass containing a large percentage of zinc is suitable for adding to brass, while copper requires the use of copper or manganese bronze rods. Special flux or borax may be used to assist the flow.

The emission of white smoke indicates that the zinc contained in these alloys is being burned away and the heat should immediately be turned away or reduced. The fumes from brass and bronze welding are very poisonous and should not be breathed.

RESTORATION OF STEEL

The result of the high heat to which the steel has been subjected is that it is weakened and of a different character than before welding. The operator may avoid this as much as possible by first playing the outer flame of the torch all over the surfaces of the work just completed until these faces are all of uniform color, after which the metal should be well covered with asbestos and allowed to cool without being disturbed. If a temporary heating oven has been employed, the work and oven should be allowed to cool together while protected with the sheet asbestos. If the outside air strikes the freshly welded work, even for a moment, the result will be breakage.

A weld in steel will always leave the metal with a coarse grain and with all the characteristics of rather low grade cast steel. As previously mentioned in another chapter, the larger the grain size in steel the weaker the metal will be, and it is the purpose of the good workman to avoid, as far as possible, this weakening.

The structure of the metal in one piece of steel will differ according to the heat that it has under gone. The parts of the work that have been at the melting point will, therefore, have the largest grain size and the least strength. Those parts that have not suffered any great rise in temperature will be practically unaffected, and all the parts between these two extremes will be weaker or stronger according to their distance from the weld itself. To restore the steel so that it will have the best grain size, the operator may resort to either of two methods: (1) The grain may be improved by forging. That means that the metal added to the weld and the surfaces that have been at the welding heat are hammered much as a blacksmith would hammer his finished work to give it greater strength. The hammering should continue from the time the metal first starts to cool until it has reached the temperature at which the grain size is best for strength. This temperature will vary somewhat with the composition of the metal being handled, but in a general way, it may be stated that the hammering should continue without intermission from the time the flame is removed from the weld until the steel just begins to show attraction for a magnet presented to it. This temperature of magnetic attraction will always be low enough and the hammering should be immediately discontinued at this point. (2) A method that is more satisfactory, although harder to apply, is that of reheating the steel to a certain temperature throughout its whole mass where the heat has had any effect, and then allowing slow and even cooling from this temperature. The grain size is affected by the temperature at which the reheating is stopped, and not by the cooling, yet the cooling should be slow enough to avoid strains caused by uneven contraction.

After the weld has been completed the steel must be allowed to cool until below 1200° Fahrenheit. The next step is to heat the work slowly until all those parts to be restored have reached a temperature at which the magnet just ceases to be attracted. While the very best temperature will vary according to the nature and hardness of the steel being handled, it will be safe to carry the heating to the point indicated by the magnet in the absence of suitable means of measuring accurately these high temperatures. In using a magnet for testing, it will be most satisfactory if it is an electromagnet and not of the permanent type. The electric current may be secured from any small battery and will be the means of making sure of the test. The permanent magnet will quickly lose its power of attraction under the combined action of the heat and the jarring to which it will be subjected.

In reheating the work it is necessary to make sure that no part reaches a temperature above that desired for best grain size and also to see that all parts are brought to this temperature. Here enters the greatest difficulty in restoring the metal. The heating may be done so slowly that no part of the work on the outside reaches too high a temperature and then keeps the outside at this heat until the entire mass is at the same temperature. A less desirable way is to heat the outside higher than this temperature and allow the conductivity of the metal to distribute the excess to the inside.

The most satisfactory method, where it can be employed, is to make use of a bath of some molten metal or some chemical mixture that can be kept at the exact heat necessary by means of gas fires that admit of close regulation. The temperature of these baths may be maintained at a constant point by watching a pyrometer, and the finished work may be allowed to remain in the bath until all parts have reached the desired temperature.

WELDING INFORMATION

The following tables include much of the information that the operator must use continually to handle the various metals successfully. The temperature scales are given for convenience only. The composition of various alloys will give an idea of the difficulties to be contended with by consulting the information on welding various metals. The remaining tables are of self-evident value in this work.

NOTE.--These melting points are for average compositions and conditions. The exact proportion of elements entering into the metals affects their melting points one way or the other in practice.

TENSILE STRENGTH OF METALS

Alloy steels can be made with tensile strengths as high as 300,000 pounds per square inch. Some carbon steels are given below according to "points":