MÂrÂgÂ, where we halted some days, is a beautiful town, famous in eastern history as the place where Hoolakoo, the grandson of Chenghiz, relaxed from his warlike toils, and assembled round him men of the first genius of the age; who have commemorated his love of science, and given him more fame as its munificent patron than he acquired by all his conquests. Amongst these was Naser-ood-Deen, who, in the thirteenth century formed his celebrated astronomical tables. We approached our encampment by a range of low hills, the top of which had been levelled to aid Naser-ood-Deen, and other astronomers, in making their observations. We traced distinctly the foundations of the observatory, which had been constructed for the favourite philosopher of the Tartar prince. In this observatory there was, according to one of the best Mahomedan works, After contemplating for some time what remained of a work, which had been dedicated to celestial objects, amidst scenes of rapine and bloodshed, we were reminded that we had terrestrial occupations to attend to, being called to breakfast at our tents. These were pitched on the green banks of the river that flows past MÂrÂgÂ, and over which are two admirable bridges of six elliptical arches each, built by the present governor, Ahmed Khan, a nobleman of high rank and influence. On approaching the tents we were met by fishermen with some trout carried on willow branches, which were passed through their gills, exactly in the same manner as is customary in Scotland. Those of our mission, and amongst them the Elchee, who belonged to that country, loudly expressed their delight with the willows, the fish, and the clear stream from which they were taken. We had the trout fried for breakfast; and during that meal, Persia, its kings, princes, astronomers, armies—all were forgotten, and nothing was talked of but the Esk, the Ewis, the Liddle, and the Teviot; important rivers no doubt to the natives of Eskdale, Ewisdale, Liddisdale, and Teviotdale, but probably as little known to many of my English readers, as to the inhabitants of Aderbejan. I visited a small tomb whilst at MÂrÂgÂ, in which, according to common report, the remains of Hoolakoo are interred, as also those of his Christian queen Delghooz KhÂtoon. To this lady, even Mahomedan writers ascribe some of the most munificent actions of her Moghul lord, who was attached to her in a very extraordinary degree. She is reputed to have been a great proficient in science, and to have honoured with her peculiar patronage and favour the celebrated Naser-ood-Deen, of whom I have already spoken. The reputation of this great man had nearly proved his A few men were sent in disguise to Bokhara, and Naser-ood-Deen was seized and carried off while walking in his garden. He was made over from one party to another, till he found himself at the "Eagle's Nest:" so the residence of the young prince, on the top of a high mountain, was called. His value, we are told, was fully appreciated at this barbarous court. While, however, they honoured him with every attention, they took precautions to prevent all possibility of escape. It was during this confinement that he wrote the celebrated treatise on ethics, The desire of liberating a genius of whom his country was justly proud, was, we are told, one of the principal motives which led Hoolakoo to attack and destroy this abode of dreaded assassins; No less than five of my friends, who had been long absent on their travels, joined us at MÂrÂgÂ. Four of them I could hardly recognize, being dressed in Persian clothes, and having large whiskers and long beards. They told us wondrous tales of Seestan, Balochistan, HamadÂn, and other countries in which they had been. We were now a party of fourteen, but we did not remain long together: some were detached to drill Persian soldiers, while others were sent to survey and report upon the soil and population of different districts of this once famous kingdom. The Elchee had returned from his first mission by the route of HamadÂn: he now determined to go to Bagdad by that of KÛrdistan, the ancient Carduchia, a province to which the sword and the pen of Xenophon have given celebrity. I was delighted at the prospect of visiting this country, which I found, by a Persian History According to my author, Shadi Ben Mirvan, a native of KÛrdistan, was kutwal or magistrate of Tekreet. The young Saladin is described by this author in glowing colours. His qualities were of the highest order; even in youth he soon outstript all competitors. He became the sole manager of affairs in Egypt under the title of Mallik Nasser: he wrote to the prince of Balbec to permit his father to join him, and on the twenty-fourth day of Rejib, in the year of the Hegira 565, the old man, who a few years before had considered himself and his family ruined, on being compelled to abandon the office of a petty magistrate, was met and welcomed at some distance from his son's palace by the Waly of Egypt; for that prince thought he could not too highly honour the parent of the man, to whom he ascribed the safety and glory of his country. Saladin wished to make over his station to his father; but the latter declined the offer, and continued, during the three years he lived, without any public employment. The Waly of Egypt having died, Saladin, already in possession of the power, succeeded to the name of sovereign of that kingdom. The riches of which he became possessed are minutely described by the Persian author. Amongst them was a staff of emeralds of extraordinary value, and a library of one hundred thousand select volumes. Noor-ood-Deen, the prince of Balbec, who had raised this family, becoming jealous of Saladin's power, endeavoured to destroy him; but all his efforts were defeated, and at his death Syria was added to Egypt. Thus originated the power of the celebrated Saladin. His recovery of Jerusalem, the siege of Ascalon, and his wars with those who are termed infidels, are given at great length, and the boldest of the Christian heroes are often represented as flying before his victorious sword. I looked through this volume, for an account of the wonderful achievements of our gallant Richard, and some mention of his fair sister Matilda; but I looked in vain, and the omission produced no favourable impression of an author who could pass over subjects so dear to every English reader of the wars of Palestine. The day before we left MÂrÂgÂ, our muleteers mutinied. They refused to proceed through KÛrdistan, alleging that the inhabitants were all robbers and murderers, and delighted in nothing more than plundering and putting to death Persians, from whom most of the tribes of that rugged country differ as much in habits as in religion, being half savages and of the sect of Soonees. The Elchee was only able to quiet them by promising to replace any mules which might be stolen, and to defend them if attacked. The temper of the Elchee, which had been ruffled by this occurrence, was still more so by the conduct of one of his principal servants, Feridoon Beg, who, besides receiving handsome pay, bore a gold stick, and took precedence of all the state servants on occasions of ceremony. This man having been sent with two hundred piastres to the servants of the chief of MÂrÂgÂ, kept back twenty. Being detected, his only defence was, that the fellows had cheated him and others, by intercepting part of a present from their master to the domestics of the Elchee. The excuse was not admitted. Feridoon was degraded, and being a favourite, had little sympathy. One of his companions, approving of the indignation his conduct had excited, said, "What a mean rascal! to behave as he has done; and all for twenty piastres!" This speech increased the Elchee's passion, who reprobated the man for looking at the amount of the sum taken, not at the immorality of the action. "You, no doubt," said he, "when you begin, will be a rogue on a large scale." He proceeded in his anger from individuals to communities, and finished by declaring, that there was neither truth nor honesty to be found in Persia. This was so much the general impression, that we were delighted to find the Elchee's eyes at length opened; but in the evening, when some of us expressed concurrence in his opinions, what was our surprise to find that these had been completely changed by a few hours of reflection! "I was," he said, "very unreasonable this morning, and am quite ashamed of myself. What could you expect?" said he to a gentleman who had mentioned some instances of being cheated in the purchase of horses and mules, as well as by servants; "what, I ask, could you expect to happen to an envoy "Now what is our situation in Persia? We fit out a mission at Abusheher, buy such horses as are offered, and hire every good-looking fellow who presents himself. We are in fact compelled to do so; for in a country where religious prejudices are so strong, none but those who cannot get bread elsewhere would come to serve Faringees, unless tempted by the hopes of great gain, through fair or unfair means. "This, if you reflect, must be particularly the case in a country where laws have little force, but where, whatever of morality there is in the lower orders, chiefly depends upon their religious sentiments, or feelings of allegiance and attachment to superiors; and amongst equals, on the ties which subsist in families and tribes. Their religious prejudices are all against us, and we neither have, nor can have, any claim on their allegiance or attachment, nor the benefit of family ties to guard us in our occasional visits to this country; and we should not therefore wonder that we are sometimes cheated; far less should we proceed, as I did this morning, to condemn a whole nation because we discover such crimes in those around us. We ought, in justice to the Persians, to refer much of what has occurred to our peculiar situation in their country, and not write them all down rogues, unless we ascertain that they are, as a people, in the habit of behaving towards each other, as we have found a few of them behave towards us." Such was the Elchee's doctrine, to which there neither was any expression of assent or dissent. Some probably believed there was reason in what he stated, while others thought there was no use in arguing with him on a subject, on which he was known to be very prejudiced and impatient. Two more marches brought us to the banks of the river It would fill a volume, were I to relate the amusing and interesting accounts we received from our enterprising friends; who had not only visited many of the least known parts of Persia, but had penetrated into the wide and barbarous countries between that kingdom and India. Their travels, if ever noticed, must belong to a future work; none of them excited my curiosity more than those of a gallant and valued friend, who has since died the death of a soldier. He had traversed the arid plains of Seestan, and visited the famous cities of Mushed and Yezd in Khorassan. As he knew Yezd was the chief residence of the few Guebres, or worshippers of fire, who still remain in Persia, and who live there, under the protection of their chief, who is one of the principal magistrates of the town, he had furnished himself with letters from the Parsees or Guebres at Bombay, to their friends at Yezd. Among these was one from Khoosroo, a well known poet, who, like many others, is more famous for the quantity than the quality of his rhymes. My friend had kept a copy of this singular production, which was in verse. After informing the chief to whom this letter was addressed that the person who would present it was endowed with many qualities, Khoosroo terms him the Vakeel or agent of the Elchee, whom he describes as a man "who never took rest for one moment, in one place." We went from the banks of the Jaghattee to a village called Koozlee. Ascending to the top of a hill, we had a fine view of KÛrdistan, which appeared, far as the eye could reach, an interminable cluster of hills. A few scattered huts, and several small encampments, were all we could see of human dwellings; and their distance from each other indicated that stage of civilization which precedes the congregating of men into villages and towns. The impressions this prospect made upon our minds, as to the character of the people on whose rugged land we were now entering, were confirmed the ensuing morning at three o'clock, by the cry of "Robbers, robbers! Murder, murder!" All was instantly in confusion; trumpets sounded, drums beat to arms; boots destined for the right leg were put on the left, while we huddled on our clothes, and ran to our posts. It was too dark to see ten yards; but we soon discovered that there were no assailants in the camp. Many of our party who had gone in front came back, and every one had a more alarming tale than the other. According to them, several men were killed, and a hundred mules plundered. While listening to these accounts, a Portuguese servant came galloping into camp, exclaiming, "They are murdering all the Christians! May the Lord preserve us!" The pious ejaculations of the affrighted Joseph caused much merriment; for, as he was the only Christian who had been in danger, it was evident that his alarm, whatever character he desired to give it, was all for himself. The Elchee halted till daylight, and then proceeded towards the village; where he found his mehmandar, two KÛrdish chiefs, and three or four principal men of the country, consulting what was to be done. They entreated him to allow them to trace the robbers, and recover what had been plundered, which was now found to amount to five mule loads; but circumstances led to a suspicion that some of those who gave this advice were concerned in the robbery, and the Elchee was consequently in no temper to listen to their counsel. He told them not to speak to him, as he neither wanted their advice nor aid: being resolved to deter the natives of KÛrdistan from ever again meddling with an European envoy. They endeavoured, but in vain, to pacify him; he ordered the infantry and baggage The Elchee either was or pretended to be in a great rage. The mehmandar, who was a favourite, and used to joke with him, became alarmed: "I now see," said he, "what I had before heard, but could not believe, that you Faringees, when in a passion, are as great savages as we are, or even as the KÛrds." When we reached our encampment, the hostages were placed in strict confinement, and not allowed to communicate with any of their families or tribes. The consequence was what we anticipated. The lost mules and the greater part of the baggage were brought back. Nothing remained unaccounted for, but some clothes belonging to the Elchee and his personal servants. These were valued at seven hundred and twenty piastres; which, seeing no abatement would be allowed, were at last paid by the collector of the district. The Elchee having become not only calm, but in high spirits with his success, was visited by the mehmandar and others, who assured him the news of these transactions would soon spread, and protect his camp against all further attempts of plunderers; and certain it is, we were never again assailed during our residence in KÛrdistan. Our march for several days was over a very rugged country, in which there was little cultivation. The pasture appeared excellent, and the valleys were watered by small but clear streams. The great want in KÛrdistan, as in many other parts of Persia, is wood. My Indian friend, Soobadar Syed Hoosein, The day he made this observation, the good Soobadar had reason to complain of the want of the latter article; for, as winter was yet distant, it being only the 16th of August, none was furnished, and the cold proved excessive; the water in our tents was frozen, and Fahrenheit's thermometer stood at 34° at six in the morning. As we approached Sennah, the capital of the province of Ardelan, the soil improved, and, if cultivated, would, no doubt, produce abundance of grain; but its rude inhabitants prefer a pastoral life. They are, if we may judge from what we saw, an uncommonly robust race, and appear unchanged in their manners and customs by the twenty-three centuries which have elapsed since the days of Xenophon, who would have no difficulty, if permitted to return from the Elysian fields, to recognize the descendants of the enemies he encountered amidst these wilds. I made this observation to BaharÂm MeerzÂ, who had been sent by the Waly of Sennah to welcome the Elchee, and remarked, at the same time, the little care or knowledge they had about religion, though all professed that of Mahomed. "It is all very true," he said, "but two or three days will bring you to Sennah, and you will then see that though we are KÛrds, and have a pride in being so, we are not all barbarians." The evening before we went to Sennah, I read the introductory pages of the history of the KÛrds. It is written by a native; and, according to this patriotic author, all the virtue and courage this world has ever known was nurtured amid the wilds and mountains of KÛrdistan. Its inhabitants, he affirms, attained great glory in former ages, and would have subjected the universe, but for the caution of the prophet Mahomed, who, struck by the fierce look and gigantic form of a KÛrd ambasssador, prayed to God that this formidable race might never be united. This prayer was heard, adds my author; and the warriors of KÛrdistan have ever since been at variance with each other. Sennah is so surrounded by hills that the town is not seen till you are close to the suburbs. We were pleased with its appearance: the houses are well built; and the gardens and cultivation in its vicinity came in strong and pleasing contrast with the rugged lands through which we had travelled for the last eight days. Two sons of Aman ollÂh Khan, the Waly, or prince, came with three hundred horse to meet, and welcome us to the court of their father. I was delighted with the eldest of these boys. Though only ten years of age, he rode and managed a very spirited charger with great address. In his conversation he was free and unembarrassed, mixing the simplicity of the child with the information of the man. He had, he said, been in all parts of his father's territories, and appeared well acquainted with the various tribes by which they were inhabited, answering every question put to him by the Elchee on this subject with remarkable clearness and correctness. The day after our arrival, we went to visit the Waly, who received us in a magnificent style. We found him attended by his principal officers; and the two boys, who had come to meet us, were standing close to their father. The Elchee wished them to be seated; but that, he was informed, was against the etiquette of this petty court. That etiquette however was disturbed. A man came into the room, and spoke to the Waly in the KÛrdish dialect. The prince laughed; and on the Elchee asking what was the matter—"Nothing," said he, "except that a spoilt child The Waly having returned the Elchee's visit, and invited us to dine with him, we went to his palace, a small but handsome building. The hall in which we were received was forty feet long, twenty-four broad, and thirty high. A facing of white marble covered the walls of this apartment to the height of eight feet, above that it was painted and richly gilt. The chequered gilding of the roof had an appearance like mosaic, which produced a good effect. Adjoining to this hall, and one step more elevated, was a room twenty-four feet by eighteen, connected with the interior of the palace by folding-doors, so admirably finished, and the gilding of which so exactly corresponded with the other ornaments of the apartment, that when shut it was difficult to discover them. The front of the hall was supported by four richly carved and gilt pillars, and opened on a terrace commanding a view of the town. On this terrace was a fountain, adapted to its size and that of the building. Persia is famous for its carpets; but none I had ever seen surpassed in beauty that on which the Waly and his guests were seated in this hall of his fathers. He appeared to have great pride in introducing the Elchee to the persons by whom he was surrounded. None of them, he said, counted less than eight or nine generations in the service of his family, and some had been its firm and attached adherents during a period of four centuries. "My country," he concluded, "is above two hundred miles in length, and nearly as much in breadth. We owe and pay allegiance to the kings of Persia, but we are exempted from that severity of rule which often ruins our neighbours, who possess rich plains and wealthy cities. Ardelan presents little temptation to an invader. It abounds in nothing," he added, smiling, "but brave men and hardy horses." The Waly was pleased to find we had, from perusing the history of KÛrdistan, become acquainted with all the great families of that country, and were familiar with the names and actions of some of the most renowned of his ancestors. He had a copy of the same history, but it wanted some passages which were in that of the Elchee, which he borrowed to have them transcribed. The Elchee was pleased, when his volume was returned, to find an addition, which brought up the history of the Walies of Ardelan to the present date, with a most flattering and highly coloured account of the arrival of the British mission at Sennah; an event which the author, in a truly eastern style, predicted would henceforward be deemed an epoch in the annals of that principality. The town of Sennah, which lies in N. lat. 35° 12', enjoys a fine climate; the small valley in which it is situated being protected from the severity of the winters in this elevated country, by the hills around it. The prince and his chiefs live in great luxury, and the inhabitants have all the appearance of enjoying competence, if not affluence. Among them were forty families of Nestorian Christians, the heads of which, with their pastor, visited the Elchee. There were many of the same sect, the good priest informed us, in KÛrdistan, who had resided there ever since its separation from the Greek church, a period of thirteen centuries. As for himself and his little flock, he added, they had a small church at Sennah, and were, as their fathers had been, not only tolerated, but protected by the princes of Ardelan. This may in part be ascribed to their being industrious and useful citizens, as they are almost all either artizans or manufacturers. From subsequent conversations which the Elchee had with the Waly, it appeared that though the kings of Persia had never attempted to establish their own authority over Ardelan, or to The contrast between the inhabitants of Sennah and of the neighbouring hills is singularly striking. The first are little different in their habits from citizens in Persia, while the latter are even more rude than the wandering tribes of that country. You meet them, watching their flocks of sheep and herds of cattle, within five or six miles of the small but luxurious capital, and are surprised to find that it is with pity, not envy, they regard its inhabitants. They glory in the state and splendour of the prince and chiefs to whom they owe hereditary allegiance, but look with contempt on the unwarlike, but more civilized community, with whom those they obey are immediately surrounded. HamadÂn, the ancient Ecbatana, Kermen ShÂh, once the residence of the mighty Khoosroo; Bagdad and its caliphs, the renowned port of Balsorah, and the southern shores of the Persian Gulph, are all before me. But here these volumes must close. My efforts to amuse, and perhaps inform my readers, are interrupted by circumstances, which, though they forbid promise, warrant a hope, that if we are pleased with each other we may meet again. London: W. Clowes & Sons, Duke Street, Stamford Street. |