[1] From a dye book of 1705.

[2] "On boiling sloes, their juice becomes red, and the red dye which it imparts to linen changes, when washed with soap, into a bluish colour, which is permanent."

[3] "For giving very inferior yellow upon coarser woollens, the dyer's broom, genista tinctoria, is sometimes employed, with the common preparation of alum and tartar."

[4] Sawwort which grows abundantly in meadows affords a very fine pure yellow with alum mordant, which greatly resembles weld yellow. It is extremely permanent.

[5] "The leaves of the sweet willow, salix pentandra, gathered at the end of August and dried in the shade, afford, if boiled with about one thirtieth potash, a fine yellow colour to wool, silk and thread, with alum basis. All the 5 species of Erica or heath growing on this island are capable of affording yellows much like those from the dyer's broom; also the bark and shoots of the Lombardy poplar, populus pyramidalis. The three leaved hellebore, helleborus trifolius, for dyeing wool yellow is used in Canada. The seeds of the purple trefoil, lucerne, and fenugreek, the flowers of the French marigold, the chamomile, antemis tinctoria, the ash, fraxinus excelsior, fumitory, fumaria officinalis, dye wool yellow." "The American golden rod, solidago canadensis, affords a very beautiful yellow to wool, silk and cotton upon an aluminous basis."—Bancroft.

[6] T. Edmonston. On the Native Dyes of the Shetland Islands 1841.

[7] The Annales de Chimie. Stockholm Transactions 1792.

[8] The Art of Dyeing. Berthollet. He gives minute directions for the preparation of Archil. See page 365.

[9] Some British Dye Lichens. Alfred Edge.

[10] From Dr. W. L. Lindsay, On Dyeing Properties of Lichens.

[11] From an article by Dr. Lauder Lindsay on the "Dyeing Properties of Lichens," in the Edinburgh Philosophical Journal. July to October 1855.

[12] Early dyers were particular as to the naming of their colours. Here is a list of blues, published in 1669.—"White blue, pearl blue, pale blue, faint blue, delicate blue, sky blue, queen's blue, turkey blue, king's blue, garter blue, Persian blue, aldego blue, and infernal blue."

[13] I give here recipes for the simpler vats which can be used on a small scale. The more complicated recipes can only be done in a well-fitted dye house. I would refer the reader to those in "The Art of Dyeing" by Hellot, Macquer and D'Apligny, and "Elements of the Art of Dyeing" by Berthollet.

[14] Woad, pastel and Indigo are used in some dye books to mean the same dye, and they evidently have very much the same preparation in making.

[15] See page 36.

[16] This recipe can also be used for linen, but linen takes the colour less easily than cotton, and should have the various operations repeated as much as possible.

[17] —For other recipes for Black, see Chapter VI on Logwood.

[18] Note page 42 on British plants which dye green.