73. Oak graining has always been in the lead in the quantity of it that is done, and it is no wonder. It offers so many variations, and in either in its heart growths or in its quarter sawed condition an endless number of forms can be indulged in which are all pleasing to look at. It can be grained in oil or in distemper in both of its forms and in combinations of the two.

HEART GROWTH IN OIL.

74. The ground for all oaks is buff. Light oak requires a cream tone of it which can be deepened for the darker shades. For red and black oak a trifle of red can be added to the buff, which is made from some good ocher added to white lead. (See paragraphs 26 to 30 about preparing grounds under various conditions.)

75. The graining colors proper are prepared to suit the shade of wood desired from raw sienna, raw umber and for very dark antique oak with a little ivory black added. The color should be megilped in order to make it comb and wipe clean. (See paragraphs 33 to 36.)

The wiping should be done as advised in paragraphs 48 and 49. Then combed as stated in paragraphs 50 to 52.

76. The graining will be improved if the same is overgrained after the wiping out and combing coat has become hardened. This must not be overdone to look well. It consists simply in using some of the graining color used before, and in touching up a few places on the grained work. This darkens them some and these variations of color enriches it. The student will notice it upon natural wood usually where the veining makes a turn, etc. Study nature, but do not overdo it.

77. When the overgraining is dry the job is ready for varnishing. In varnishing use an elastic varnish as much as possible, as both the ground coats and the graining colors contain oil and a hard, quick-drying varnish will not be so likely to give and accommodate itself to these as an elastic one will. As the varnishing coats which follow graining of all kinds are about the same for all woods it will not be necessary to repeat each time what is said here.

78. In varnishing over distempered work a quicker and harder varnish can be used than that named above. As many prefer a wax finish to varnishing, this can be applied over the work. The ready prepared wax finishes are best to use; they are easily applied with a brush or even a rag and afterward polished over with a cloth or a hand polishing glove made of lamb skin with the wool left on. It will soon polish up into a soft-toned subdued gloss which is pleasing and imitates “rubbed work” in hardwood finishing.

GRAINING OAK HEART GROWTH IN DISTEMPER.

78. It will be well not to have the ground coats too oily for graining in distemper, as it may be difficult to spread the distemper color over it, especially in cool weather. On the other hand again, it must not be too flat, as then the colors will sink into it and if from any cause one desires to wash them off they will be indelibly marked out upon the ground, and will at the least look dirty.

The check roller can be used to good advantage in putting in a few checks here and there, and a little fine stippling on the side away from where the main heart growth is to be pencilled in with the camel’s hair brush will help the looks of it. When dry proceed to put in the heart growth, using the overgrainer wherever possible in doing the fine line work over the stippling. It goes without the saying that all the veining, both heart growth and fine lines, must be well blended with the badger hair brush.

QUESTIONS ON LESSON XV.

73. What is said of oak graining in general?

74. How are oak ground tints to be made?

75. How are the colors to be applied?

76. How is the graining overgrained?

77. How is the varnishing to be done?

78. How is wax polish finish applied?