I. Introductory.
The Architecture of South of France comparatively little known, 1; contrast of North and South in climate, buildings, &c., 3; Provence a very ancient and independent State, 4; and scene of important historical events, 5.
II. Early History of Provence, and its Condition during the Middle Ages.
Colonised by Phoenicians, 1100 B.C.—Greek culture introduced, 7; occupied by the Romans about 100 B.C., 8; became their favourite province, 9; overrun by Visigoths in fourth century, 10; Roman and Greek colonies were in cities, and the revived government also municipal, 11; the Church the chief instrument of organised government, 12; monasteries established, 13; anarchic condition from fifth to eighth century, 14; invasion of Saracens, 15; attempt to establish a “Holy Roman Empire,” 16; revival under Charlemagne, 18; growth of the monasteries, Cluny, 20; Citeaux, 22; the Crusades, 23; effects of the above on Architecture, 24.
III. Political History of Provence.
Fall of the Empire in fifth century. Kings of Provence from sixth to tenth century, 26; Kingdom of Arles, 27; Raymond BÉranger becomes Count of Provence, 11, 12; independence of cities attacked, 27; Albigensian crusade, 28; in 1245 Charles of Anjou becomes Count of Provence, 29; Queen Joan; 1480, King RenÉ dies and Provence becomes part of France, 30.
IV. Description of Classic Buildings.
The Architecture of Provence naturally divided into a Classic and a MediÆval period—which best considered separately, 32; the Roman period, 33; Paris, Autun, capricious preservation of Classic monuments, 34; Lyons, Vienne, 35; Temple of Augustus and Livia, remains of Forum, 37; the pyramid, 38; Vienne restored, 39; Orange, 40; the theatre, 42; triumphal arch, 45; other triumphal arches at Cavaillon, 47; St Remy, 48; mausoleum at St Remy, 50; Arles, history, 51; amphitheatre, 52; mode of protecting spectators in ditto, 54; obelisk, Place d’Hommes, Tour de la Trouille, 56; Alyscamps, 57; sculpture in museum, 59; Nimes, history, 64; amphitheatre, 65; Maison CarrÉe, 68; statue of Venus, 71; NymphÆum, 72; Tour Magne, 73; Roman gates, 74; Pont du Gard, 76; the “Camargue” and the “Crau,” 77; St Chamas, Roman bridge at, 77; VernÉgue, temple at, 78; paucity of classic remains at Marseilles and Narbonne, 79; Pomponiana, 80; Le Luc, 80; FrÉjus, history, 80; gate of Gaul, amphitheatre, theatre, aqueduct, 82; Via Aurelia, 83; aqueduct of Clausonne, Antibes, Vence, 84; Cemenelum, 86; Turbia, 87.
V. Transition Period.
Transition from Classic to MediÆval Architecture, 90; principles of Greco-Italian design, trabeate as opposed to the arch, 91; gradual introduction and development of the latter, 92; trabeate features dropped, 93; early Christian architecture a continuation of that of Rome, 94; the basilica, 95; the baptistery, 96; San Vitale, 96; Byzantine edifices, the dome, 97; St Mark’s, Syrian churches, 98; early churches in the West—Romanesque varieties, 99; attempts to vault—San Miniato, 100; Notre Dame du PrÉ, Le Mans; form of vaulting in Provence, 102; in Aquitaine, 103; St Front, Perigueux, 104; the dome and single nave characteristic of the South, 105; varieties of style, influence of Roman remains, 105; powerful in Provence, 106; shewn in campaniles, baptisteries, and especially sculpture, 107; supposed Byzantine influence—the pointed arch, 107; used for simplicity of construction, 108; Burgundian style, imitative of nature, 109; the severe style of the Cistertians, 110; the second style of ProvenÇal art; the two periods described, 111; growth of lay element, 112; traditional ecclesiastical forms abandoned and new natural forms adopted, 113; Northern Gothic developed, 114; Gothic applicable to all requirements, 115; domestic and castellated Architecture, 116; origin and growth of the latter, 117; peculiarities in the South, 118; recapitulation, 119; place of ProvenÇal Architecture, 120.
VI. Description of MediÆval Buildings.
Description of MediÆval buildings—Lyons, the Ainay, 121; the cathedral, 122; Vienne, St AndrÉ-le-Bas, and St Pierre, 124; cathedral, 126; ancient houses, 127; Valence, Maison des FÊtes, 127; castle of Crussol, monastery of Cruas, 128; church of Cruas, 132; MontÉlimar, Viviers—commencement of ProvenÇal examples, St Paul-trois-chÂteaux, 134; St Restitut, Pont St Esprit, 136; CourthÉzon, Avignon, 137; history, 138; Notre Dame des Doms, 139; imitation of Roman work, 141; palace of the Popes, 143; history, 144; description of, 145; walls of town, 148; gates, 151; Pont St BÉnezet, 151; tower of Villeneuve, 154; castle of St AndrÉ, 155; gatehouse, 156; curtains, 161; guard rooms on walls, 162; church of Villeneuve, 163; churches of Avignon, the Beffroi, abbey of St Ruf, Priory of St Veran, 164; Vaison, 165; Carpentras, Venasque, Pernes, Le Thor, Cavaillon, 167; Le clocher de MollÉges, 168; Tarascon, history, Ste Marthe, 168; castle, 170; houses, gateway, 172; Beaucaire castle, 173; triangular keep, 176; oratory, 178; Les Baux, 179; the town—the bas-reliefs, 180; account of the family, 181; St Gabriel, 182; Arles, St Trophime, 183; includes examples of all periods of ProvenÇal Architecture—the Cistertian nave, 184; the west portal, 187; the cloisters, 188; the Alyscamps, St Honorat, 191; prosperity of Arles after union to France—Renaissance palaces, 192; Mont-Majour, Hermitage, 194; church, 196; cloister, 199; chapel of Ste Croix, 199; the keep, 203; St Gilles, Abbey church, 204; interrupted by Albigensian crusade, 205; portal, 206; sources of ProvenÇal art, 210; Les Saintes Maries, 212; Marseilles, St Victor, 213; Aix-en-Provence, St Sauveur, 217; cloisters, 219; “Les Villes Mortes du Golfe de Lyon,” 220; Montpellier, Maguelonne, 222; BÉziers, 222; St Nazaire, 224; Fountain, 227; house in town, 228; Puisalicon, St Pierre de Reddes, St Martin de Londres, 229; Narbonne, history, 230; cathedral, 231; its fortifications, 232; Archbishop’s palace, 233; the keep, 234; St Paul, the Lagunes, the Pyrenees, Perpignan, 235; the castellet, cathedral, 236; citadel, &c., Elne, 239; cathedral, 240; the unfinished chevet, the campanile, 241; the cloisters, 244; Carcassonne, 244; history, 245; towers of the Visigoths, 246; the porte Narbonnaise—the barbican and its defences, 252; the walls and towers, 254; St Nazaire, 257; Aigues Mortes, 260; Canal, 261; walls and gateways, 264; Porte de Nimes, 266; Tour de Constance, 268; Tour CarbonniÈre, 269.
Eastwards from Marseilles—Toulon, 270; HyÈres, 271; castle, 272; St Paul, 273; examples of Cistertian style, 274; Cannet, 275; abbey of Thoronet, 276; the cloisters, 278; remarkable details, 280; chapter house, 281; St Maximin, 282; FrÉjus, cathedral and Bishop’s palace, 281; fortified, 289; baptistery, 291; “Pantheon” at Riez, 293; the cloisters, FrÉjus, 296; Brass lamp, 298; doorways in town, 299; district of Les Maures, how to visit, 300; St Tropez, fish market, 301; Grimaud, castle, 302; La Garde Freinet, St RaphaËl, the Esterelle mountains, 304; Napoule, 305; St PeyrÉ, Mont St Cassien, 307; Cannes, 308; history, Tour du Chevalier, 310; St Anne, 314; Notre Dame d’EspÉrance, 317; Iles de LÉrins, 319; St Honorat, cloisters, 320; Ste TrinitÉ, 320; St Sauveur, 323; castle of St Honorat, 324; style of lower cloister, 330; style of upper cloister, 334; additions, 340; Ste MarguÉrite, 343; Vallauris, 344; Le Cannet, 347; Mougins, Notre Dame des Vie, 348; Auribeau, 350; Grasse, 351; cathedral, 353; keep tower, 354; Renaissance, 357; l’Oratoire, 357; St CÉsaire, 359; chÂteau de Tournon, 363; Montauroux and Callian, 364; Le Bar, 366; Gourdon, 367; Tourettes, 369; Antibes, 371; two keep towers, 373; Cagnes, castle, 376; castle of Villeneuve-Loubet, 378; history, 381; tower of La TrinitÉ, 382; Biot, 387; St Paul-du-Var, 392; approach to, 393; Architecture of shops and houses, 395; staircase, 397; gateway, 398; church, 400; remarkable keep-tower, 401; Vence, 407; cathedral, 409; keep towers, 411; column, 413; commandery of St Martin, 414; destruction of the Templars, 417; Nice, history, 418; CimiÈs Cross, 421; castle of St AndrÉ, 422; Villefranche, Eza, 422; La Turbie, 428; gateways, 430; Monaco, 432; history, 433; Ducal Palace, 434; Roquebrune, 437; Mentone, 438; Gorbio, Ste Agnes, Castellar, 441; boundary of ProvenÇal Architecture, 441; Ventimiglia, 445; Dolce Aqua, 445; Pigna, 448; San Remo, 449; Taggia, 450; Bussana, Oneglia, &c., 451; Albenga, 452; Genoa, 455.