Trip to MacÀo?—?Disappointed in getting ashore?—?Mai arrived?—?Get no Letters?—?Expression of Sentiments?—?Causes and Effects?—?Overland Mail?—?Idea of a Route?—?Happy Valley?—?Chase of Pirates?—?A Poisson d'Avril?—?Into the Typa again?—?Arrival of Consort?—?Late Dates?—?Catholic FÊte?—?Depart for Shanghae?—?The Yang-tse-Kiang?—?Improvement in the appearance of the Country?—?Better race of Men?—?Banks of the Woo-sung.

Took a trip over to MacÀo, for a supply of provisions, our dÉpÔt being there, and having these on board, back again to Hong-Kong. Did not get ashore at MacÀo, which was somewhat of a disappointment, as I had some kind friends there whom I wished much to see, and from whom the cruise to Manilla had made the separation longer than usual.

Upon the eighteenth of March the Mail Steamer came into Hong-Kong, with the overland mail. I had been anxiously expecting its arrival, with letters for myself, but was disappointed, and gave expression to my feelings in this wise:

After this felt somewhat relieved; for the mind is like the body, and mental, as well as physical suffering, must have vent. A twinge of a tooth brings forth a groan; a twitch of the heart-strings produces poetry in me: have only to hope the poetry may not have the effect of the toothache upon the reader.

The overland mail is brought across the desert by the Isthmus of Suez, and reaches Hong-Kong in about forty-five days from England, and brings dates from the United States in from 60 to 70 days, depending upon the junction of the Atlantic steamers. Letters by it can either be sent via Southampton, England, or Marseilles, France; the latter is considered the swiftest route, the former the most secure.

Monsoons in the China Sea affect its transit on that end of the line, and letters have been known to have reached Hong-Kong from New-York during a favorable monsoon within 60 days.

Since the acquisition of California, our government possesses a much speedier route, and would find it greatly to her interest to establish a line by any of the overland routes across the Isthmus of Darien, and from thence by steam to Shanghae, or even Hong-Kong in China; and I do not despair of seeing the time when letters will be delivered in these ports within forty days, from the Atlantic cities. Our growing interests in this section of the globe demand attention and some arrangement of this kind.

Remained moored in the harbor of Hong-Kong until the second day of April, visiting the town occasionally, and strolling over the hills for exercise.

They have some very fine roads for drives, cut at a considerable expense through hills and boulders of granite. The "Victoria Road" leads out, about four miles to a place called East Point, and upon it, about two miles from the town, is a fine race-course. This course has been gotten up by subscription, and is situated in a large and beautiful valley, called "Happy Valley." It is well named, if beauty can confer happiness, and it certainly is a principal ingredient, for has not a poet said

Here are held periodical races, and the sport is much enjoyed, as it always is by Englishmen. No climate is too hot, none too cold to prevent it, and these trials of speed are characteristic of the nation. The Spaniard will have his bull-fight, the Mexican pits his cocks, but John Bull selects the noblest of quadrupeds, and infuses into him his own emulation for superiority.

Upon the evening of the 31st of March, had a little excitement to destroy the monotony of a life on shipboard. A report was circulated that a band of pirates had smuggled themselves on board the P. & O. Company's steamer "Hong-Kong," which had left that day for Canton.

These boats are in the habit of taking Chinese passengers at one dollar a head, a very low rate, and as such, it was said a number of desperadoes, armed, had embarked in her.

H. B. M. screw propeller "Reynard," immediately got up steam, thirty men and officers from our ship were transferred to the little American steamer "Spark," and both vessels started in hot pursuit.

The Reynard stopped at the Bogue, and her boats proceeded to scour those waters, whilst the Spark proceeded up the Canton river. She had not far to go, however, for about midnight the return steamer was hailed, which reported having passed the "Hong-Kong," all right. So both vessels returned to Hong-Kong, upon the morning of the first of April.

But although the coincidence was ominous, they could not truly be said to have caught a "poisson d'avril," for there was doubtless a design against the steamer, which had on board a large amount of treasure, and some of these Chinamen were afterwards tried and condemned at Hong-Kong, for the attempt. Want of unanimity or some other cause having defeated their purpose.

Upon the second of April, left for MacÀo, there to await the arrival of our consort. Tried to get into our old anchorage in the Typa, and stuck upon the mud-bank again, where we remained until the fourth morning, kedging, hauling and warping, when succeeded in getting afloat by pumping out the water, and transferring shot, &c., into a lorcha. After reaching the anchorage, hoisted the Portuguese flag, and fired a salute of 21 guns in honor of the birthday of the Queen of Portugal.

Upon the 8th instant, our consort arrived, and anchored in the outer roads; by her I received old newspapers, and a letter seven months and seventeen days after date.

Had been ashore several times in MacÀo, but found little to interest me until the evening before Good Friday, when there was a general turn out of the inhabitants, and all the churches were brilliantly illuminated, and the altars decked with flowers. Crowds went from one church to the next, and the principal object appeared to be that of visiting each and every church, a continuous stream being kept up between them.

Upon Good Friday the tragedy of the death of our Saviour was performed at the cathedral. After the crucifixion, the body was removed from the cross, and carried upon a bier, through the different streets in solemn procession. First came the host with its usual attendants, then followed the "accursed tree" with the bloody garment of Christ upon it. After it came ten beautiful children, personating angels; then was borne a waxen image to represent the corpse, followed by the virgin mother, and immediately succeeding the two other Marys. The bishop and suite were next, then the troops of the garrison, with arms reversed, and mournful music; the rear being brought up by male citizens in mourning dresses and heads uncovered. In this line of march the procession moved through the principal streets, and back to the cathedral, where the body was placed in the tomb with solemn ceremony.On the first day of the week the resurrection was celebrated with appropriate joyful demonstration. At night, maskers went about the streets, stopping at intervals to have a dance, and entering houses, where after going through a performance, they would partake of refreshments.

Left MacÀo for Shanghae on the 25th of April, to beat up the China Sea against a strong N. E. monsoon. In this passage our craft behaved remarkably well, and although quite wet, held her own, and diligently ploughed her way through all difficulties, amongst not the least obstructing was a heavy head sea, which made her very uncomfortable, also greatly impeded her progress.

Made the islands off the mouth of the Yang-tse-Kiang on the 12th of May, and came to anchor in the river that night. Found the current very strong, and the wind being ahead, had to await a change of tide.

Weighed anchor with the first setting in of the flood, and got about eight miles up the river, when had to let it go again. Thus we continued until the 14th, when had worked our way into the Woo-Sung or Shanghae river, where, although the breeze was favorable, the water shoaled so suddenly, that we were forced to come to, just above the village of Woo-Sung. The Woo-Sung river empties into the Yang-tse-Kiang about 40 miles from its confluence with the ocean, and the city of Shanghae is situated upon the Woo-Sung, about three leagues above its junction with the Yang-tse-Kiang, which is one of the largest rivers in China, and washes the walls of the city of Nankin, formerly the southern capital of the Empire.Nankin is laid down in latitude 32° 5' N., longitude 119° E., and is about 50 leagues from the ocean.

The meaning of the words Yang-tse-Kiang, is, Child of the Ocean, or more literally, "Son of the Sea;" it is about two thousand five hundred miles in length, and its breadth and capacity entitle it to the classification of the third river of the world.[8]

As we ascended the Woo-Sung, found a marked difference in the face of the country. Our former stations in China had been amongst the rocky hills of the southern Archipelago, which scarcely allowed the smallest shrub to take root upon their barren sides, and the sight of trees had become rare to us. But here, upon either side, was stretched out a beautiful green plain, giving evidence of the most industrious cultivation, protected from encroachments of the river by strong and broad levees. Substantial, comfortable farm-houses meeting the eye in every direction, supplied the places of the insecure huts of the fishermen. Fruit trees were abundant, and the general aspect gave evidence of a genial soil, aiding the efforts of the provident husbandman.

The men, too, whom we could see at work beyond the embankments, were of a larger stature, and had a more healthy appearance than their southern brethren. Their complexions were of a lighter hue, and here, for the first time, I saw a Chinaman with rosy cheeks.The invigorating effects of a northern climate were fully proven in the appearance of these people. They seemed to enjoy the roughest health, and were free from that care-worn look of the Chinese about Canton. They were clad more entirely than these also, and wore more of woollen in the material of their garments. Chow-chow appeared more abundant, and the children were the fattest little rascals I have ever seen. But I cannot commend them for cleanliness, and must admit that their countrymen nearer the sea make a better use of that cleansing element,—possibly because it was spread before them in larger quantities.

It was in the spring-time, in the "merrie month of May," when we approached Shanghae; every thing was in bloom. There had been the usual spring rains, and the weather had settled down to that delightful temperature, which has such a cheering effect upon the spirits. And as we dodged the tides in the winding Woo-Sung, spots would be descried which brought to mind some similar scenes at home: these would be pointed out. Another would find a resemblance in some grove, plantation, or clump of trees; and thus its banks were made sacred, and our Lares and Penates jostled the household gods that presided there.

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