Drive to the Balsa?—?Meaning of the word?—?A Mob of Women?—?Nora Creena?—?Magic, slipper?—?Description of the drive?—?Ferryman of the Females?—?Decline the office?—?The Suburbs?—?A la Balsa?—?Manilla, intra murales?—?The Mole by Moonlight?—?Friend in a fit?—?Circo Olympico?—?Scenes in the Circle.

Up betimes upon the morning of our second day on shore, for a drive to the Balsa. The word, in English, means pool or raft, and the road over which we drove led to a ferry over a stream, which you cross to reach the romantic village of Maraquino.

Met crowds of native women coming in from that neighborhood to commence their work at the tobacco factory. Had heard of miles of girls at Lowell, greeting with smiles the noble father of the system which gave them employment, the honorable and the honest Henry Clay, but had never anticipated meeting with so many of the sex, within a mile, in these latitudes.

The crowd was so great as to materially affect our progress. We had often to haul up to allow them to pass, and when our cochero received the order "ander" it was coupled with the caution "despacho" that he might drive carefully for fear of injuring some of them.

Did not count, but suppose there could not have been less than two thousand women in this mob; but, alas! though some were young, but few were beautiful, and, as they shuffled along, in their short jackets, and the ungainly sciar wrapped around their nether extremities, they made a display of charms by no means attractive. Their style of dress differing from Nora Creena's in this, that whilst her gown was

their substitute for that portion of woman's apparel appeared as if the strongest kind of a "mountain breeze" had wrapped it tightly round their forms, and continued to keep them enveloped in its Laocoon-like folds; and although "every beauty" was not left exactly "free" yet there could be no disputing the evidence of sinking and swelling so sweetly described by the poet, as the peculiar charm exhibited in the costume of his admired Nora. They were generally barefooted, and those whose feet were clad, had them covered with that wonderful slipper, which barely covers the extremity of the foot, and is kept in its place by the adhesion of the smallest toe to its neighbor.

Getting clear, at length, of this crowd of feminines, "presto" was the word, and away we bowled along one of the most beautiful roads I have ever seen. The foliage was luxuriant, the air of the early morning cool and refreshing, and filled with fragrance. The road (a natural one) even as a bowling green.

A drive of about one hour brought us to the river. I forget its name; it is a small stream flowing into the Bay of Manilla at CavitÈ, where we found the float formed of bamboo, which is drawn across by ropes (?) made of the same material. By this means that immense concourse of women had been transported, and great as is my devotion and subjection to their charms, should have declined the office of ferryman, after the morning's rencontre.

A sudden shower prevented our making a long stay at this romantic spot, and also interfered with a contemplated visit to a manufactory of Manilla cordage in the neighborhood.

Breakfast was awaiting our return at the hotel, at half-past nine, and this dispatched, spent some time expecting a permit to visit the "Fabrica del Tobago," in which being disappointed, made our cochero drive us through the suburbs. As I have before stated, these form the principal part of the town, and are of considerable extent, but the houses in them are generally constructed of bamboo.

There are a number built of stone, but many of them were in a dilapidated condition.

In the after part of the day drove again to the CalÇada, where we spent the evening passing up and down, and occasionally slipping out of place in the line when we could escape the vigilant eye of the guard, to enable us to pass the equipage and to see the face of "some gay beauty," the exquisite shape of whose neck and shoulders had tempted us to risk fine and imprisonment for the sake of a "front view."

After a refreshing sleep, which was superinduced by a glorious shower bath, and made doubly delicious by the remembrance of the glances of the beauties of the Prado, which, like fire-flies, flitted through our dreams, started again upon the Balsa road with an intention of visiting the "Rope factory," from seeing which the rain deterred us yesterday.

Our command to the cochero upon his mounting, was a la Balsa, trusting to be able to direct him on the way, but as we depended somewhat upon the fellow's knowledge of the proper place to turn off, found ourselves again disappointed, for the confounded postillion either could not or would not find the road, and out to the ferry again he drove us, in spite of my teeth, and all the Spanish I could get through them. I rather thought he made ignorance a plea for unwillingness, until I afterwards learned that these men, the cocheros, who are a class sui generis, being of the Indian race, understand but little more of the Spanish language than what they pick up at hotels, in the way of their profession—their own tongue being the Tagalo, of which tribe they are generally natives. My vanity somewhat soothed by this information, after breakfasting drove within the walls of the city, and entered the "city of Manilla," little more now than a citadel for the surrounding population. These walls are in themselves thick and massive, and cover a considerable space in their foundation, although the area which they inclose is not so great as it appears from the bay. Within them the houses are of a better style of architecture than those of the suburbs, and the streets through which I drove were well graded, even and clean; but life was wanting here, and the solitary soldier at his post was the only thing human I saw; however, my visit was not well timed, being at the hour when the SeÑoras are supposed to be taking their siestas, and my object was merely to see what kind of a place it was. Upon a future occasion saw it to more advantage.

I refer to my diary, from which make the following extracts.

Monday, the eighteenth of February.—Returned on board from another trip to the shore, last night at twelve, and have seen so many sights, that I scarcely know in what manner to record them; perhaps the best plan is to detail them, seriatim.

Left the ship on Saturday morning, in the ten o'clock boat, and reaching the hotel, remained there until dinner, occupying time in reading and taking a bath. After dinner drove out to the CalÇada, around it to the front of the city and the mole; walked upon the mole for an hour or more, when the moon rose. It was full and bright; never had seen such splendid moonlight. Had a sentimental friend with me, upon whom it operated powerfully. He remarked, "What a treat it would be to have by your side, in such a scene, one whom you loved, and who could love you!"

Finding the fit strong upon him, made the cochero drive off the Prado directly, and take us to the "Circo Olympico"—its opening night. Paid six reals each for admission and had our money's worth.

The performers were all Indians, excepting the proprietor, who was himself a native of la belle France. The horses were "native" if not to "the manner born." Nice little nags, these ponies of Manilla. The Frenchman had trained the menage, both Indians and horses, and promised the enlightened public a treat such as had never been offered before. His place was well arranged, and we had tickets stamped a la premiere lunette—to the dress circle. In it were several very tastily dressed and rather handsome ladies—brunettes of course. The performance had commenced before we entered, and at that time the act in progress was that of jumping and turning somersets over a poor and patient quadruped of the equine species. There was no clown in "propria persona," but a poor Mestizo supplied the place of one, for being so unfortunate as to make some awkward leaps at the commencement, and showing some concern at his failure, whenever his turn came, he was sure to be greeted with laughter and applause. The audience had elected him clown, nem. con.—thus proving the truth of the axiom,

To vary the scene, the manner of leaping was changed, and two men were placed upon the beast in a reversed position, which my sentimental friend, now becoming facetious, thought very peculiar; they were soon, however, both sprawling in the tan amidst screams of laughter, having been knocked off by this bungling individual.

This over, the music commenced. Such music! During the uproar an attachÉ of the establishment appeared all bespangled, with an implement such as haymakers use in the happy harvest time, with which he described eccentric circles round the ring, stepping gingerly backwards at each swoop. At this my sentimental friend became witty, and selling himself to Josephus Millerius Senior, inquired in a whisper if that act might not have been set down in the bills as "The Rake's Progress." Had no hopes for him now, but in a shaved head, low diet, and the Water Cure.

The proprietor stepped gracefully forth upon the smoothed tan to announce the grand scene—an act of riding two horses by himself, and a young lady—her first appearance in any ring! Indeed it appeared to be the first essay of all the performers.

With a grand flourish of the entire band, consisting of trombone, riddle and drum, two small Manilla ponies made their entrÉe, accompanied by attendants enough to have borne them on bodily. SeÑor y SeÑiorita followed hand in hand, and introduced themselves, in character, with a graceful bow, a modest curtsy, and the disengaged hand on his heart, on the part of the gentleman as a token for both.

The lady was assisted to mount the inside pony, when the gentleman leaped lightly upon the off one. He was at first seated, as indeed was the female performer. At a sudden burst from the band, he started from his seat, a la cavalier, and bounding into the air, alighted upon the backs of the horses, a leg upon each. The lady was expected to have followed this graceful action, but its effect appeared to astonish the beasts, and the off steed, as mischievous a Mustang as ever munched at a manger, suspicious of a design to make him carry double, commenced curveting, and disturbed the equilibrium of the lady considerably. Then he seemed determined upon a separation "a vinculo," and spreading out, placed the gentleman in an awkward predicament, forcing him to make a stride like a pair of compasses in measuring a hemisphere, and stretching his tight and light-blue pantaloons to the very extent of their elasticity, a quantity of chalk from the saddle, marking the part which had come in contact with it. The disorganizing pony, after being well flogged, was forced back into his original position by his numerous attendants—vi et armis—and assisted in describing a semi-circle, with a few deviations, when suddenly stopping at the place of entrance, he caused the gentleman to perform an involuntary back somerset, and saluted him with a shower of kicks in his descent. But the undaunted Frenchman was soon upon his legs and the pony's back again, and then commenced a combat in which all the performers joined. The horses were whipped by the attendants, and kicked, plunged, and reared on their part. The proprietor expostulated with his lady co-actor, whom he threatened and coaxed in turn, but who evidently had a strong desire to discontinue the act; and it was amusing to watch the varying expression of his countenance, as, with frowning brow, and clenched hands, and such a grimace as a Frenchman only can produce, he menaced the lady, and "the passing smile his features wore," when he turned round deprecatingly to the audience.

At last, a compromise having been effected, the horses were gotten fairly under way, and had attained considerable headway, but broaching to, the SeÑora was dismounted, and regaining her feet, made an exit with more speed than grace, and the performance was announced—concluded. But upon taking a peep, after the audience had retired, I saw one of the ponies, mounted by a Manilla man, running the gauntlet of four long whips around the ring, and felt certain his rider could not have enjoyed much pleasure from the act, for every now and then he caught a lash intended for the horse, and if the other naughty pony had to come in for a like portion, expect he had another rider.