China Sea?—?Anchor off MacÀo?—?Canton River?—?Whampoa?—?Trip to Canton?—?The San-pan?—?Pagodas?—?Lob Creek?—?Salt Junks?—?Description of a Junk?—?Mandarin, or Search Boats?—?Pirates?—?Crowded state of River at Canton?—?Land at Factory Stairs?—?Visit Vice-Consul?—?New China Street?—?A Cow-House?—?Wonders of Canton?—?Factory Gardens?—?Water Parties?—?Buddhist Temples, and Holy Pigs?—?Dock-yard at Whampoa?—?American Missionary at Newtown?—?Bethel, and its Pastor?—?Fourth of July?—?Back to MacÀo?—?The Typa?—?The Barrier.

The southwest monsoon wafted us quietly and quickly over the China Sea, and upon the nineteenth of June we came to anchor off MacÀo, in the outer roads. Not finding the flag-ship there, as was expected, after taking in some provisions from the naval depÔt, weighed anchor, and proceeded up the Canton River to Whampoa, where we moored ship in the "American Reach" to undergo necessary repairs. Whilst these were going on, I procured a "fast boat," and went up to Canton, about nine miles above that part of the "Reach" in which we lay.

These boats—the "San-pan," or boat of this country—are used expressly for the conveyance of passengers and their effects, and are kept scrupulously clean for that purpose. They pull from three to six oars, according to their size. The oarsmen are all seated forwards, whilst a woman, generally with a child fastened to her back, both propels and steers with a long oar from the stern, which she manages with great dexterity, appearing to work harder, and with better effect, than her lazy lord, (who has generally the bow oar,) at the same time keeping a bright lookout ahead, and giving warning in her guttural chant of any obstruction.

Passed two Pagodas, each of nine stories, and made a romantic cut-off, via Lob Creek. Soon we came upon a large number of junks at anchor, with huge manilla cables,—one of which our interpreter pointed out as "Salt Junk." We had seen enough of that during our passage out, but this kind of junk interested us; for a more clumsy piece of naval architecture could hardly have been invented to annoy the eye of a sailor. With her perpendicular masts of one stick, no bowsprit, only an opening where it should be, to receive an anchor, made of part of a crooked tree; poop sticking up like a game fowl's tail, and immense red and white eyes painted on each bow:—for the Chinese sailor says: "No have eyes, how can see? no can see, how can walkee?"—make such a picture of a thing to float in, and wherewith to transport worldly effects, that the question naturally arises, What would be the probable per centage a Chinese underwriter would demand as premium to insure in such a bottom? Indeed, I must do the memory of the patriarch Noah the justice to believe, that his craft was put together with a better adaptation to the principles of flotation than this, or it would never have lived through that gale of forty days and forty nights, logged in the Good Book.Soon, however, we came across some better-looking specimens, which we were told were the "Mandarin," or "Search Boats," belonging to the Chinese Customs. Their models appeared better adapted to "make walkee," and, in addition to sails, they had double banks of oars.

At what I took to be the Navy Yard, saw some English hulls, which had been built upon, and which, in spite of all this eccentric people could do to change their appearance, still looked ship-shaped. There were also some sharp-looking junks being built, which I was told were to be fitted out against the pirates; but, if what I afterwards learned be true, they were more likely to become piratical craft themselves; for it was reported that the person to whose charge they were to have been consigned had been extensively engaged in that business himself, until he was interfered with by the English, who broke up his fleet; and that now he had humbugged the Chinese government into giving him another. At least, so ran the rumor.

As we approached the Factories, it seemed almost impossible to make our way through the immense number of boats and other craft which appeared to play hide-and-seek amongst the larger junks moored in every direction in the stream; but, thanks to the skill of our female pilot, we avoided all collision, and brought up safely at the Factory stairs. It was excessively hot; and as we walked across the Factory Gardens to the Consulate, the effects of the sun upon the clean glossy walks was painful to the eyes.

After paying our respects to the Vice-Consul, took a short turn up New China Street to make a few necessary purchases, and then threaded our way back to Acow's Hotel,—facetiously termed by one of the party who had the remembrances of dainty spreads at the "Astor" and "Irving House" in his mind, "a cow house!"

Here we had "tiffin,"—Anglice, lunch,—and then disposed ourselves as well as we could for comfort and cool air, neither of which did we obtain; nor what our parched throats so loudly called for,—cool water. Acow had no ice; so our only recourse was to procure bottles of "aerated water,"—we called it "Pop," in our ignorance, and to send them where truth is said to reside,—the bottom of a well.

As the sun declined, walked out to view the wonders of Canton; and although it was Sunday, found the streets thronged with coolies carrying heavy burdens of merchandise, slung on bamboos resting on their shoulders, plying backwards and forwards on their different errands, in a jog trot, with a loud grunt;—the grunt as much to relieve them, as to give warning to those in their way. Passed through different streets in the neighborhood of the Factories, all composed of shops, from which long-tailed Chinamen rushed out, chinchinning, and soliciting our custom. These streets have a great similarity, and a description of one would answer for all. With the exception of some that are devoted to the sale of particular articles, as the Street of Tailors, and Curiosity Street, they differ only in the appearance of the article exposed for sale. They are quite narrow and used only by pedestrians. The only quadruped I recollect seeing in them was a diminutive jackass, standing before a shop in "Old China Street." How he came there, or for what purpose, I could not determine. It may have been out of compliment to the "Foreign Devils," that his long ears were exhibited; but if his position was illusive, in one relation it failed; for, despite these appendages, the beast did not enter the shop.

The gardens I found the most attractive. They are in front of the different factories, and over them floats the flag of the nation, opposite its respective consulate. They cover several acres, and are well laid out, planted with every variety of tree and shrub, and are kept in admirable order. Formerly, I understood, there had been a partition wall between the English and American portions, but this had lately been removed, as I hope may be all causes of division between the two governments.

Towards evening these gardens are frequented by nearly all of the European population, who stroll about to enjoy the breezes from the water after the heat of the day.

A number of Parsees are daily to be seen, with their long, white, and scrupulously clean linen surtouts, turbans, or else bugshaped caps, wide trousers, just appearing beneath their white coats (an improvement on the Bloomer costume, I thought), and shoes pointed at the toes with pieces of some kind of metal, turned up, after the fashion of what the boys call "high dutch" in skates, at home.

Witnessed the worship of one of this strange sect, and his devotions to his fire god in his setting, appeared as sincere, at least, as those of many, who consider themselves more favored in being able to look "through nature, up to nature's God."A Fanqui, or foreigner, finds himself much circumscribed in his peregrinations about Canton. With the few narrow streets above mentioned, and the open space in front of the factories, he must fain be content; but upon the water his way is more open, and the European and American residents avail themselves of the broad river to launch and sail their most beautiful boats, as also to use the hong boats, san-pans, fast, and flower-boats, fitted up in every style of luxury. In these, after the business of the day is over, and the heat of the sun abated, parties pass their evenings, in smoking segars and conversation.

Across the river are some Buddhist temples, in which shaven priests are almost continually engaged in "chin chinnings," and where are kept some holy pigs in a state of continual surfeit. The very last animal I should think of holding sacred.

There are some gardens in the suburbs of Canton, said to be worthy of a visit, but these I had no opportunity to see.

After exhausting my patience and finances at "Acow's," I returned to the ship to explore the environs of Whampoa. Our anchorage was at the head of the Reach, opposite a ship yard in "Newtown," where a large ship, the Prince de Joinville, was then in dock undergoing repairs. This yard was at that time in the possession of a Mr. Cowper, a yankee, if I am not misinformed, but had been originally established by a Chinaman. Every thing necessary for repairing a vessel appeared to be on hand, and Mr. C. was then engaged in coppering the one on his dock.Whampoa Reach is the anchorage for merchantmen, and is the most convenient place to Canton for that purpose. A large number of vessels were here receiving and awaiting cargoes, and the daily arrivals and departures of ships give it a cheerful aspect.

The old town of Whampoa is strictly Chinese, and separated from contact with the "outside barbarian," as much as is Canton, by its walls. It is true, you may be allowed to pass its gates, but run a risk of being hustled and pelted out of their vicinity.

Newtown is composed of traders, who are gradually leaving the "old town," which is some distance below, and is called Bamboo town. Both of these places are accessible, and have the interminable lane of shops, all the "same same," as in Canton.

Called upon Mr. Bonny, an American Missionary, who was then a resident at Newtown, but who hoped soon to settle in Whampoa, and was making arrangements for a house within its walls. He appeared devoted to his vocation, with strong hopes of success. Found him (it was night) engaged with several Chinese, the principal men of the village, to whom he was exhibiting a magic lantern, with which they seemed greatly pleased. It was a very superior instrument, and an excellent method of conveying to unpractised minds, many things, which otherwise must have remained mysteries to them. The motion of the earth, for instance, illustrated by a ship rising above the horizon—the sidereal system, and the eclipses of the moon. He describes the population of this vicinity as being very dense, and ignorant. Their belief resembles the ancient mythology, for they have their Jupiter Tonans, or "thunder god," and other deities similar to those worshipped by the more classical heathen of Rome and Greece. He has succeeded in partially disabusing the minds of some, but finds it requires great efforts to eradicate ideas so strongly implanted. May he have success in his disinterested labors! I should have earlier mentioned that Mr. Bonny speaks the Chinese language, and appears to convey his ideas with much fluency.

There is a bethel, or floating "seaman's chapel," anchored in the "Reach," which was presided over by the Rev. George Loomis, whom I had the pleasure to hear deliver an excellent discourse from the text: "And by one man sin entered into the world, and death by sin." In the course of his remarks he made a beautiful and touching allusion to the deaths of those two great men, Sir Robert Peel and General Taylor, the news of which had just reached us by mail.

Was pleased to see a numerous and attentive audience of shipmasters and seamen, and from the frank and pleasing address of Mr. L. cannot doubt but that he will have great success with this class of men.

The bethel was in itself a very neat affair. The place devoted to public worship being about fifty feet by thirty, prepared with admirable adaptation for that purpose, and well ventilated. It contained, besides apartments for the pastor, a fine reading room, where a number of foreign papers were regularly filed, and a good library kept. Its roof was flat, and above this was another covering of matting which formed a fine sheltered promenade. Indeed, a building could hardly have been planned ashore, comprising more commodious, convenient, or comfortable quarters, and I am indebted to its cool retreat for the remembrance of many an hour passed pleasantly.

The Anniversary of our National Independence came round whilst we lay in Whampoa. It was recognized with due honor. The ship dressed with flags, and a national salute fired at meridian. A dinner was given to the officers by the American shipmasters and residents of the "Reach," which passed off very pleasantly. The usual quantity of champagne and patriotism expended. Toasts proposed and drank, and the fact generally conceded that the United States were the greatest states on the face of the globe, and the "United Staters" the greatest people.

Our repairs completed we unmoored, and commenced to back and fill down the river until we had cleared the shipping, and then taking advantage of the tide, got into the bay and headed for MacÀo. Found the flagship at anchor in the outer roads, and after saluting and communicating with the Commodore, went into the Typa, and moored there.

The Typa is an anchorage inside the harbor, and is so called from an island which protects it from the sea. It has from four to four and a half fathoms water, and of course cannot be entered by very large vessels. Although in former times the largest sized East-Indiamen have gone in. They are now forced, if stopping at MacÀo, to anchor outside, abreast the town, and some four or five miles off.

Hong-Shan river, or the Broadway, commences here, and is a kind of a cut-off, navigated by junks from Canton to MacÀo.

The city of MacÀo, called first by the Portuguese, Port da Macao, from the name of a Chinese idol found there, is called Gaou, or Ou-moon by the Chinese, and occupies the southernmost point of the island of Heang-Shan.

After the discovery of the passage to the East Indies around the Cape of Good Hope, by De Gama, who landed on the Malabar Coast in 1498, the Portuguese continued to navigate these seas, and were allowed by the Chinese a shelter on this point. In the year 1550, having obtained a foothold, by degrees they built themselves stone houses and forts, and commenced the foundation of a city.

About this time, they had established a profitable commerce with Japan, China, and the Eastern Islands, and this settlement became the centre of an extensive trade, which increased until MacÀo grew into a place of considerable importance.

The Chinese government, however, in granting this favor to the Portuguese fenced it around with their usual caution, and placed many restrictions upon them. The point upon which MacÀo stands, is almost separated from the Island, the connection being an Isthmus of about three hundred feet; across which, about three miles from the Praya, a wall is built through which is a gateway, guarded by Chinese soldiers, and beyond which the Portuguese were not allowed to pass; and their municipal government was restricted to the barrier. It was placed there in 1573.

When we were there the guard had been removed, and a part of the wall thrown down; the Governor Amaral having broken through more barriers than this, previous to his murder—of which, anon.