CHAPTER I

PAGE

The Coast and the Port 1

CHAPTER II

Ascent to Armenia 37

CHAPTER III

To Akhaltsykh 53

CHAPTER IV

To Akhalkalaki 72

CHAPTER V

At Akhalkalaki 86

CHAPTER VI

Prospect from Abul 92

CHAPTER VII

Gorelovka and Queen Lukeria 96

CHAPTER VIII

To Alexandropol 118

CHAPTER IX

At Alexandropol 124

CHAPTER X

To Erivan 133

CHAPTER XI

To Ararat 143

CHAPTER XII

Ascent of Ararat 156

CHAPTER XIII

The Heart of Ararat 179

CHAPTER XIV

Return to Erivan 200

CHAPTER XV

At Erivan 206

CHAPTER XVI

Edgmiatsin and the Armenian Church 228

CHAPTER XVII

To Ani and to Kars 316

CHAPTER XVIII

Ani, and the Armenian Kingdom of the Middle Ages 334

CHAPTER XIX

Kars 393

CHAPTER XX

Across the Spine of Armenia 409

CHAPTER XXI

Geographical 421

CHAPTER XXII

Statistical and Political 446