PREFACE

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As one of the American Waterways series, this volume is designed to be a history and description of the Columbia River. The author has sought to convey to his reader a lively sense of the romance, the heroism, and the adventure which belong to this great stream and the parts of the North-west about it, and he has aimed to breathe into his narrative something of the spirit and sentiment—a spirit and sentiment more easily recognised than analysed—which we call “Western.” With this end in view, his treatment of the subject has been general rather than detailed, and popular rather than recondite. While he has spared no pains to secure historical accuracy, he has not made it a leading aim to settle controverted points, or to present the minutiÆ of historical research and criticism. In short, the book is rather for the general reader than for the specialist. The author hopes so to impress his readers with the majesty of the Columbia as to fill their minds with a longing to see it face to face.

Frequent reference in the body of the book to authorities renders it unnecessary to name them here. Suffice it to say that the author has consulted the standard works of history and description dealing with Oregon—the old Oregon—and its River, and from the voluminous matter there gathered has selected the facts that best combine to make a connected and picturesque narrative. He has treated the subject topically, but there is a general progression throughout, and the endeavour has been to find a natural jointure of chapter to chapter and era to era.

While the book has necessarily been based largely on other books, it may be said that the author has derived his chief inspiration from his own observations along the shores of the River and amid the mountains of Oregon and Washington, where his life has mainly been spent, and from familiar conversations in the cabins of pioneers, or at camp-fires of hunters, or around Indian tepees, or in the pilot-houses of steamboats. In such ways and places one can best catch the spirit of the River and its history.

The author gladly takes this opportunity of making his grateful acknowledgments to Prof. F. G. Young, of Oregon University, for his kindness in reading the manuscript and in making suggestions which his full knowledge and ripe judgment render especially valuable. He wishes also to express his warmest thanks to Mr. Harvey W. Scott, editor of the Oregonian, for invaluable counsel. Similar gratitude is due to Prof. Henry Landes of Washington University for important assistance in regard to some of the scientific features of the first chapter.

W. D. L.

Whitman College,
Walla Walla, Wash.,
1909.


CONTENTS

PAGE
PART I.—THE HISTORY
CHAPTER I
The Land where the River Flows 3
CHAPTER II
Tales of the First White Men along the Coast 33
CHAPTER III
How All Nations Sought the River from the Sea and how they Found it 43
CHAPTER IV
First Steps across the Wilderness in Search of the River 69
CHAPTER V
The Fur-Traders, their Bateaux, and their Stations 98
CHAPTER VI
The Coming of the Missionaries to the Tribes of the River 136
CHAPTER VII
The Era of the Pioneers, their Ox-Teams, and their Flatboats 159
CHAPTER VIII
Conflict of Nations for Possession of the River 179
CHAPTER IX
The Times of Tomahawk and Firebrand 202
CHAPTER X
When the “Fire-Canoes” Took the Place of the Log-Canoes 234
CHAPTER XI
Era of the Miner, the Cowboy, the Farmer, the Boomer, and the Railroad-Builder 249
CHAPTER XII
The Present Age of Expansion and World Commerce 265
PART II.—A JOURNEY DOWN THE RIVER
CHAPTER I
In the Heart of the Canadian Rockies 273
CHAPTER II
The Lakes from the Arrow Lakes to Chelan 290
CHAPTER III
In the Land of Wheat-Field, Orchard, and Garden 313
CHAPTER IV
Where River and Mountain Meet, and the Traces of the Bridge of the Gods 332
CHAPTER V
A Side Trip to some of the Great Snow-Peaks 352
CHAPTER VI
The Lower River and the Ocean Tides 374
Index 399


ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE
St. Peter’s Dome, Columbia River, 2300 Feet High Frontispiece
Copyright, Kiser Photograph Co., 1902.
Mount Adams from the South 74
Photo. by W. D. Lyman.
Capt. Robert Gray 76
The “Columbia Rediviva” 76
Mount Hood from Lost Lake 82
Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse.
Eliot Glacier, Mt. Hood 84
Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse.
Astoria in 1845 116
From an old print.
Astoria, Looking up and across the Columbia River 116
Photo. by Woodfield.
One of the Lagoons of the Upper Columbia River, near Golden B. C. 120
Photo. by C. F. Yates, Golden.
Saddle Mountain, or Swallalochort near Astoria, Famous in Indian Myth 120
Photo. by Woodfield.
Steamer “Beaver,” the First Steamer on the Pacific, 1836 124
Portland, Oregon, in 1851 124
From an old print.
Grave of Marcus Whitman and his Associate Martyrs at Waiilatpu 210
Photo. by W. D. Chapman.
Cayuse Babies—1 212
Copyright by Lee Moorehouse, 1898.
Cayuse Babies—2 212
Copyright by Lee Moorehouse, 1898.
Col. B. F. Shaw, who Won the Battle of Grande Ronde in 1856 222
By courtesy of Lee Moorehouse.
Fort Sheridan on the Grande Ronde, Built by Philip Sheridan in 1855 224
By courtesy of Lee Moorehouse.
Tullux Holliquilla, a Warm Springs Indian Chief, Famous in the Modoc War
as a Scout for U. S. Troops
228
By courtesy of Lee Moorehouse.
Hallakallakeen (Eagle Wing) or Joseph, the Nez PercÉ Chief 230
By T. W. Tolman.
Camp of Chief Joseph on the Nespilem, Wash. 232
Photo. by T. W. Tolman, Spokane.
Tirzah Trask, a Umatilla Indian Girl—Taken as an Ideal of Sacajawea 234
Photo. by Lee Moorehouse, Pendleton.
Oregon Pioneer in his Cabin 256
Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse.
Old Portage Railroad at Cascades in 1860 258
A Log-boom down the River for San Francisco 258
Photo. by Woodfield.
Lumber Mill and Steamboat Landing at Golden, B. C. 260
Photo. by C. F. Yates.
A Typical Lumber Camp 262
Photo. by Trueman.
A Logging Railroad, near Astoria 264
Photo. by Woodfield.
Natural Bridge, Kicking Horse or Wapta River, and Mt. Stephen, B. C. 276
Photo. by C. F. Yates.
Sunrise on Columbia River, near Washougal 276
Copyright, Kiser Photograph Co., 1902.
Lake Windermere, Upper Columbia, where David Thompson’s Fort was Built
in 1810
280
Photo. by W. D. Lyman.
Mt. Burgess and Emerald Lake, One of the Sources of the Wapta River, B. C. 282
Photo. by C. F. Yates.
Bonnington Falls in Kootenai River, near Nelson 284
Photo. by Allan Lean.
Bridge Creek, a Tributary of Lake Chelan, Wash. 286
Photo. by F. N. Kneeland, Northampton, Mass.
Kootenai Lake, from Proctor, B. C. 288
Photo. by Allan Lean, Nelson.
Lower Arrow Lake, B. C. 290
Photo. by Allan Lean, Nelson.
Bridal Veil Falls on Columbia River 292
Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse.
Shoshone Falls, in Snake River, 212 Feet High 294
Photo. by W. D. Lyman.
Lake Pend Oreille, Idaho 296
Photo. by T. W. Tolman.
Lake Coeur d’Alene, Idaho 296
Photo. by T. W. Tolman.
The “Shadowy St. Joe,” Idaho 298
Photo. by T. W. Tolman.
On the Coeur d’Alene River, Idaho 300
Photo. by T. W. Tolman.
Gorge of Chelan River, the Outlet of Lake Chelan 302
Photo. by T. W. Tolman, Spokane.
Head of Lake Chelan—Looking Up Stehekin CaÑon 304
Photo. by W. D. Lyman.
Cascade Pass at Head of Stehekin River, Wash. 306
Photo. by T. W. Tolman, Spokane.
Doubtful Lake, Cascade Range, Washington, near Lake Chelan 308
Photo. by T. W. Tolman, Spokane, Wash.
Horseshoe Basin through a Rock Gap, Stehekin CaÑon 310
Photo. by T. W. Tolman.
Lake Chelan 312
Photo. by W. D. Lyman.
A Harvest Outfit, Dayton, Wash. 314
Sunset Magazine.
A Combined Harvester, near Walla Walla 314
Photo. by W. D. Chapman.
Inland Empire System’s Power Plant, near Spokane, 20,000 Horse-Power 316
Photo. by T. W. Tolman.
Lower Spokane Falls 316
Photo. by T. W. Tolman.
CaÑon of the Stehekin, near Lake Chelan 318
Photo. by T. W. Tolman.
Memorial Building, Whitman College, Walla Walla 320
Photo. by W. D. Chapman.
Starting the Ploughs in the Wheat Land, Walla Walla, Wash. 322
Photo. by W. D. Chapman, Walla Walla.
On the Historic Walla Walla River 324
Photo. by W. D. Chapman.
Blalock Fruit Ranch of a Thousand Acres at Walla Walla, Wash. 326
Photo. by W. D. Chapman.
Witch’s Head, near Old Wishram Village. The Indian Superstition is that
these Eyes will Follow any Unfaithful Woman
328
By courtesy of Lee Moorehouse.
Cabbage Rock, Four Miles North of the Dalles 330
Photo. by Lee Moorehouse, Pendleton.
Eagle Rock, just above Shoshone Falls in Snake River 332
Photo. by W. D. Lyman.
Stehekin CaÑon, 5000 Feet Deep 334
Photo. by W. D. Lyman.
Steamer “Dalles City,” Descending the Cascades of the Columbia 336
Memaloose Island, Columbia River 338
Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse.
Horseshoe Basin near Lake Chelan, Wash. 340
Photo. by T. W. Tolman, Spokane.
Castle Rock, Columbia River 342
Copyright, Kiser Photograph Co., 1902.
The Lyman Glacier and Glacier Lake in North Star Park, near Lake Chelan 344
Photo. by W. D. Lyman.
Hunters on Lake Chelan, with their Spoils 346
Photo. by W. D. Lyman.
A Morning’s Catch on the Touchet, near Dayton, Wash. 346
Sunset Magazine.
Oneonta Gorge—Looking in 348
Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse.
Cape Horn, Columbia River—Looking up 350
Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse, Portland.
Looking up the Columbia River from the Cliff above Multnomah Falls, Ore. 352
Copyright, 1902, by Kiser Photograph Co.
Spokane Falls and City, 1886 354
Photo. by T. W. Tolman, Spokane.
Spokane Falls and City, 1908 354
Photo. by T. W. Tolman.
In the Heart of the Cascade Mountains, above Lake Chelan, Wash. 360
Photo. by T. W. Tolman, Spokane.
Birch-Tree Channel, Upper Columbia, near Golden, B. C. 362
Photo by C. F. Yates, Golden.
Typical Mountain Meadow, Stehekin Valley, Wash. 364
Photo. by T. W. Tolman.
High School, Walla Walla, Wash. 366
Photo. by W. D. Chapman, Walla Walla.
Lake Chelan 368
Photo. by F. N. Kneeland.
On the Banks of the Columbia River, near Hood River 370
Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse.
Rooster Rock, Columbia River—Looking up 372
Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse, Portland.
Band of Elk on W. P. Reser’s Ranch, Walla Walla, Wash. 374
Photo. by W. D. Chapman.
Oregon City in 1845 376
From an old print.
Fort Vancouver in 1845 376
Lone Rock, Columbia River, about Fifty Miles East of Portland 378
Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse, Portland.
Willamette Falls, Oregon City, Ore. 380
Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse.
Among the Big Spruce Trees, near Astoria, Oregon 382
Photo. by Woodfield, Astoria.
Portland in 1908. Mt. St. Helens Sixty-Five Miles Distant 384
Portland Harbour, Oregon 386
Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse, Portland.
Fish River Road in Upper Columbia Region, B. C. 388
Photo. by Trueman, Victoria.
Multnomah Falls, 840 Feet High, on South Side of Columbia River about
Sixty Miles above Portland
390
Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse.
Chinook Salmon, Weight 80 Pounds 392
Photo. by Woodfield, Astoria.
Lake Adela, near Head of Columbia River, B. C. 394
Photo. by C. F. Yates.
Bridal Veil Bluff, Columbia River, Oregon 396
Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse, Portland.
Band of Kootenai Indians, B. C. 398
Photo. by Allan Lean, Nelson.
Maps At End


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

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