[1] The unsettled state of the country formerly deterred masters of vessels from giving up their registers, fearing they might be lost; and various shifts were resorted to as substitutes, such as rendering Mediterranean passes, apprentice indentures, any thing in the shape of parchment or printing—all went current. Some years since, Matthews, an adjutant of the port, who had been aid-de-camp to Admiral Gravina, at the battle of Trafalgar, detected a trick of this sort, the parties not being aware that he understood English. Matthews was a Spaniard born, but educated in London.

[2] For Instructions for navigating the river Plate, see Appendix; where also will be found the Rules of the Port, Dues to be paid by Vessels, &c.

[3] On the 4th December, 1823, the Dutch ship of war Lynx, of 30 guns, arrived at Buenos Ayres, on her way to the Pacific; and thirty of the crew deserted, during her stay of nineteen days. The boats came on shore latterly with armed marines, and the men were not permitted to land.

The French brig of war Faune arrived on the 11th, and sailed on the 23d June, 1824: she lost six men by desertion. This brig brought to Buenos Ayres the French Admiral, Rosamel.

[4] In the coffee-houses, the waiters are very inquisitive, and in a manner that one cannot be angry with. A knight of the napkin got me into conversation, asking me a host of questions about England and Englishmen, declaring, that he liked them better than any foreigners; and, after passing those compliments, which I received with due reverence, he eagerly demanded the reason of the English having such red faces? I knew he could not mean mine, as I am dark, and of a sallow complexion; so I told him, that the rich people drank a great deal of Port wine, and the poor equally so of beer, which accounted for the bloom he had noticed.

[5] As Mr. R. is an important personage in Buenos Ayres, I cannot forbear relating an anecdote of him:—In an excursion to Rio Janeiro, he took away with him a slave girl, reporting (or scandal had done so for him) that she was a present from the governor’s lady, as a trifling reward for the pleasure his musical talents had afforded her. This coming to the ears of the lady made her highly indignant, saying, that “she was not in the habit of giving away her slaves.” Rosquellas, upon his return, was sent to prison, and made to account for the slave, by paying a round sum of money.

[6] I once witnessed a most disgraceful scene at the Theatre FranÇais, at Paris. Talma was performing Cinna—the house was crowded, when some English ladies entered the boxes, escorted by two of their countrymen, military officers. It was at the time when the British army occupied Paris. In taking off their shawls, the backs of the ladies were, for a moment, turned towards the pit; when a yelling commenced from that quarter, which would have disgraced savages. The interference of the British officers increased the confusion; the most insulting gestures were resorted to; and the ladies quitted the theatre in tears, affording a noble triumph to those brave champions of etiquette.

[7] A performance was advertised for a benefit, founded upon the battle of Salamanca. In the front of the theatre, on the evening previous, a transparency was exhibited, representing the discomfited French pursued by Wellington and his troop: they had, likewise, a British flag hoisted. All this was too much for Monsieur to bear; and a scuffle took place, in an attempt to haul the flag down. On the play night, an O.P. row was expected, but all went off quietly.

[8] Dr. Oughan has returned to England, in the Kingfisher packet: some eccentricities in the doctor’s conduct occasioned the British consul to make application for his being sent home.

[9] Clerks are no longer permitted to enter the reading-room, unless they subscribe, or make application to their employers for a ticket: this they have declined to do, and keep aloof from the room, depriving themselves of their chief source of amusement.

[10] Mrs. C. formerly possessed a handsome competence, gained by keeping an hotel; but her fortune has been much reduced, by advances made to her late husband, Captain Taylor, and by losses in different speculations. She has now retired from business, and lives upon a moderate annuity. Her adopted daughter, Dona Panchita, who is grown a fine girl, resides with her. Captain Taylor was a visionary, yet a good-hearted man; he died in October, 1822. I am informed that it was he who first lowered the Royal Spanish flag, and hoisted the Patriot flag, at the Fort, at the beginning of the revolution.

[11] The Slaney was stationed in the outer roads, from January, 1821, to February, 1822. Captain Stanhope assumed the command in October, 1821, Captain O’Brien having been promoted. A laughable event happened during her stay in the outer roads:—She was accustomed to signalize with the shore. One day, a black fellow was ordered to whitewash the wall from which the signals were made on land: he was mistaken by those on board for a signal ball; and, by a reference, his position corresponded with the order, to bend sails. Accordingly, the boatswain piped all hands, and never were sails bent with more dispatch: the crew, tired of their monotonous life, felt eager to leave, and with alacrity obeyed the command. During this time, Blackee had taken another position on the wall: book opened again—it made the number, to unmoor the ship. This corroboration of the first order was hailed with joy. Another movement was imperfectly understood; it seemed to convey—send a boat on shore for the captain; and a boat was sent for explanation. Captain O’Brien was astonished: the wall was examined; and there they found the black man harmlessly pursuing his work, unconscious of the important part he had been performing, exposed to the ardent gaze, and raising the beating hearts, of 150 men. At a distance of eight miles from the shore, a mistake of this sort cannot surprise. The crew were greatly disappointed, and, taking hold of one of their shipmates, a black man, declared that, as they amused themselves on land by making signals with one of his colour, he should be the answering pennant.

[12] The following are extracts from the decrees issued by the government on the occasion:—

“A sepulchral monument, at the expense of the government, shall be raised over the remains of the Honourable CÆsar Augustus Rodney, as a memorial of gratitude.

“In the funeral rites to be observed towards so distinguished a citizen, the following orders shall be executed. A Battalion of Infantry, with four pieces of Light Artillery, shall be stationed at the place where the body is to be buried. As the corpse leaves the house of his decease, the fort shall fire a national salute. Another similar salute shall be executed by the Light Artillery, on the entry of the corpse into the cemetery. On putting it into the grave, the battalion being formed, shall fire a general discharge.

“The general staff of the army, and the chiefs of all the departments, shall be invited to meet at the house of the government, to accompany the ministers during the said funeral rites.”

The funeral was the grandest thing of the sort ever seen in this country. A great concourse of people of all nations attended, on horse and foot; not the least remarkable of whom were the Catholic clergymen. In the detail published of the ceremonies, we read the following observations:—

“In addition to the civil authorities who attended, it was peculiarly pleasing to all the Protestants, to observe the public respect shewn by the attendance of the head of the church, and many of the most distinguished Catholic clergymen, the Rector of the University, &c.; proclaiming, in the most unequivocal manner, the increasing liberality of this Catholic people. They had, before, kindly granted the Protestants the privilege of a burial-ground; and on this occasion they attended, with the greatest respect, to all the exercises of the funeral, and mingled their sympathies with our’s. Their high-minded example in this instance is at once indicative of the elevation and nobleness of their character, and worthy the imitation of Christians of every name and country.”

Mr. Rivadavia made an oration over the grave; the concluding words ran thus:—

“Illustrious soul of CÆsar Augustus Rodney! return to the bosom of thy Creator, with the elevation and confidence to which you are entitled. Being his image here on earth, separate not thy compassionate regard from this country, which is so highly honoured in preserving your remains. Yes, we will preserve them, as the most precious treasure that this soil can receive.” [Taking some earth in his hand.] “And thou earth! that art going to cover these venerable remains, receive also the honour of being mingled with the most fruitful seeds of virtue, and cause it to produce similar heroes, that may immortalize the American name.”

[13] A translation of O’Meara’s work, in French, has appeared in Buenos Ayres, with the consequent conclusion, that Sir Hudson Lowe must be a perfect brute. In Spanish, we have one or two diatribes against the British government, and their tyranny exercised on the seas; but the malignity so apparent in the observations destroys their effect.

[14] Foreign nations duly appreciate this invaluable discovery. In England alone, the birth-place of its immortal author, a portion (I believe, a very small one) still persist in denying its efficacy: “A prophet is no prophet in his own country.”

[15] Conspicuous amongst the fair-haired beauties of Buenos Ayres, is the Senorita Dona Segunda Iglesia. This young lady (and she is not yet sixteen) is a perfect Hebe. Dona Isaaca, her sister, two years younger than herself, forms a charming counterpart of the fair Segunda.

Another accomplished and elegant girl, whom we Englishmen have named the Marchioness (from her likeness in face to the Marchioness of Hertford), attracts much admiration. She is an enthusiast in music: at the theatre, when the orchestra performs any of her favourite airs, her animated countenance evinces the emotion which this divine science inspires.

[16] I remember once meeting a Frenchman at Paris, whom I had known at London in rather indifferent circumstances. He had obtained an office in the palace of the Thuilleries; and, upon my congratulating him thereon, he said, that it was all very well, except the d——d hat business. On asking for an explanation, he stated, that, being a public officer, he was obliged to take his hat off so often, that it cost him £30 per annum for that single article.

[17] The washerwomen of Buenos Ayres present a singular spectacle to a stranger. They pursue their avocation on the beach; and this soap-sud army extends for nearly two miles: all the washing of the town is performed there, by black women-slaves, and servants. At a distance upon the water, it looks like surf breaking upon the shore. They wash well, extending the linen upon the ground to dry. Robberies amongst them are punished by ducking. A wedding, or other joyous ceremony, is celebrated with African magnificence: a canopy is formed from the linen, and the heroine of the day placed under it; red handkerchiefs for flags are carried upon sticks, with saucepans, drums, &c. They dance pas-seuls, after the mode of Guinea and Mosambique, I presume. The music consists of singing and clapping of hands; thunders of applause follow—Parisot and Angiolini never received more; a general shout ends the entertainments. Their adherence to African customs is a peculiar trait. At the approach of rain, confusion seems at its height, and “chaos come again;” the ladies hurrying in all directions, to save their linen from “the pitiless storm.”

[18] I heard a slave boy once complaining, that he was a most unfortunate fellow, in having been born only one day before the decree passed for the abolition of slavery: “Could I have remained unborn,” said he, “only one day longer, I should have been a happy boy, and no slave.”

[19] Great curiosity was excited by the arrival in the brig Rhoda from London, of three English draught horses and a mare, sent out by Mr. Rivadavia, as a present to the government. The animals were landed in good condition, notwithstanding their having endured a confinement of thirteen weeks on board ship. Their great size and muscular appearance excited universal admiration. What would the Buenos Ayreans say, could they see our regiments of Life-Guards, and heavy cavalry, and the cattle in the brewer’s drays and coal waggons? An English groom attended the horses to the stables, and numbers went to view them there.

I am afraid, that the sanguine hopes of improving the breed of horses, in this country, by the introduction of English ones, will not be realized; for, in spite of their boasted climate and pastures, I am persuaded, neither will be found congenial to our horses, who, being accustomed to the ever-verdant plains of England, can ill bear the long drought and oppressive heat of this country. The people, too, are prejudiced in favour of their own cattle; and were they to pay attention to them, they would indeed be excellent; but their treatment of horses may be compared to the manner in which Esquimaux treat their dogs. Comfortable stabling and grooming are unknown here. Horses are so cheap and plentiful, they are little valued.

Some English blood horses, for Mr. W. P. Robertson, of this place, unfortunately perished during the passage from England. Had they arrived, the Buenos Ayreans might have witnessed the hunter and draught horse of Great Britain. Our countrymen in Buenos Ayres seemed highly delighted to see their country horses; and, as they passed the beach, the sailors eyed the animals with rapture, commenting upon their noble appearance.

A quantity of English sheep, stated to be Merinos, likewise came out in the Rhoda.

[20] On the second day of the fair, it blew a gale of wind, in which a boat, belonging to H.M. brig of war, Plover, was upset, between the inner and outer roads, and five men were drowned. A subscription was opened for their families, in England, and 500 dollars were collected. Mr. Poussett, the vice-consul, generously exerted himself to forward this charitable act.

[21] These Gauchos are a peculiar race: some wear their hair long, and plaited, Chinese fashion; and, in addition to their other singularities of dress, they wear handkerchiefs tied under the chin, and hanging loose behind. A group of them in a field, seated round a fire, is all we can fancy of Macbeth’s witches.

[22] The packet sailors are allowed a portion of trade; and the most profitable of their imports have been potatoes and game-cocks. These packet sailors are complete pedlars.

[23] The parrots brought from the Brazils, Paraguay, &c. to Buenos Ayres, differ in nothing from those we every day see in England; and they chatter as loudly, generally in the following strain—“Lorito Real,” (Royal Poll); “Pare la Espana y no para la Portugal!” (Spain for ever and no Portugal); “Est casada?” (Are you married?) “Aye, Jesus!” (O, Jesus!)

[24] Of the British vessels, the following were from London and Liverpool; the remainder from Gibraltar, Rio Janeiro, the Havannah, &c. &c.

[25] The number of American vessels in 1824, compared with former years, is very great. They were chiefly laden with flour, which, although now a losing speculation, has, lately, been beneficial.

[26] Englishmen, on their first visit to France, soon after the peace of 1814, were eager to receive French gold; but they soon tired of it, and asked for paper. I was at Peregaux and Lafitte’s banking-house at Paris, when an application of that nature was made: the clerk replied, that France must first get credit, before she could venture upon bank-notes.

[27] A book entitled A History of the Jesuits, but which is chiefly filled with attacks upon the Roman Catholic faith, holds out Stonyhurst College as pregnant with danger, asserting that it has already increased the number of Catholics in its immediate vicinity. Lancashire has always been a catholic county, and it is to be expected that people will crowd to a neighbourhood that contains edifices devoted to their manner of worship. I cannot believe that any considerable number of Proselytes has been made: we are too sensible of the happiness enjoyed under our own, to be caught with the glare of another church.

[28] Many of the Buenos Ayreans, of the second and third grade, have most confused notions of London. They think that all England is in London; and in speaking of the arrival of a vessel from Liverpool, Falmouth, or any other port, they add Liverpool in London, Falmouth in London; and when speaking of English passengers arriving, no matter from what part, they are all from London. Seeing so many Englishmen in their country, gentry of the above description have the most exalted notions of themselves, and of the superiority of Buenos Ayres over the rest of the world. We must not blame their self-importance; for we have a tolerable share of it ourselves, else the world has terribly belied us.

[29] Carts, with a bell affixed, go about the streets vending water. The city is but ill provided with water, that in the river being considered unwholesome. Mr. Bevans, the engineer, has sunk the ground at the Recolator to a great depth, for the purpose of forming a well to supply the town with water. The work still goes on; but, hitherto, the desired water is not to be found.

[30] One cannot help smiling at the contrast which the two state engineers of Buenos Ayres present—our Quaker with his broad brim and plain clothes, and the dashing Frenchman in large cocked hat; the only point of similarity is in their both wearing large hats, though differently shaped. Upon the installation of the new governor, the usual notice was given for public officers to attend the procession in full uniform; Mr. Bevans did attend—not in military attire, but in full conventicle dress, as became the man of peace, and looked a comfortable respectable gentleman. He was seated in a carriage with a military officer, and, but for that, I could have fancied him a wealthy miller from Uxbridge, Quaker Town, proceeding to hear the price of corn. The singularity of Quaker costume attracted much notice, upon the first arrival of Mr. Bevans: they stared at him in the streets, but offered no insult; now and then a vagabond boy would call out “Lobo!” Mr. B. is a very good-tempered man.

[31] Sir Murray Maxwell, of H.M.S. Briton, lying at Monte Video, honoured us with a visit, in June, 1824. The last time I saw this veteran seaman, previous to his arrival here, was under a shower of cabbage stumps, carrots, turnips, mud, &c. upon the hustings at Covent Garden, when a candidate to represent Westminster. Sir Murray’s unaffected and amiable manners greatly pleased the British in Buenos Ayres; and the remembrance of his Chinese exploits rendered him an object of considerable interest. It was a singular coincidence that the French Admiral, Rosamel, who had been Sir Murray’s prisoner, in the war with France, should, at the same time, be on a visit to Buenos Ayres. The French admiral, who, in person, looks a complete John Bull, attended the theatre, with his officers, in full uniform. His is the nation for effect. Our officers seldom visit the theatre; and when they do, it is in plain clothes. The French naval uniform appears more like a military one—the blue coat, buttoned close to the neck, and tassels.

[32] These Colorados are all cavalry. I saw them drawn up in the Plaza; and, whilst gazing at the singularity of their appearance, one of them claimed me a countryman of his. He spoke to me in English, and told me he had been fourteen years in the country. He was, probably, one of Beresford’s men; many of whom, as well as deserters from Whitelock’s army, are to be found in the province. Some of them, from having been so long accustomed to the Spanish language, have absolutely forgotten their own; of this I have known several instances.

These British deserters find various employments. Hearing an Irish cobler, one day, in a miserable stall, bewailing his sad lot, and regretting that he had left the army; I asked him what army? “By Jasus,” said he, one of “Whitelock’s regiment; and if I was in it now, I should have a comfortable pension by this time.”—“Why did you leave it?”—“They embarked without me.”—“Or, in other words, you deserted.”—“By the powers! you have hit it; and a bad day’s job I made of it,” said he.

[33] A great deal of money was made and lost by speculators, at the time privateering was allowed in Buenos Ayres. The last vessel that sailed was the Heroine (formerly the French Braak), commanded by a North American, named Mason, and which was captured by the Portuguese frigate Perola. Mason has been confined at Lisbon, more than two years. His wife, an English lady, and large family, reside in Buenos Ayres.

[34] The arrival of a Brazilian frigate Maria de Gloria, of thirty-two guns, Captain Beaurepaire, on 7th March, 1825, caused much conversation and speculation upon their errand; such as coming to demand satisfaction for insults offered to their consul, &c. A burlesque letter appeared in the Argentina newspaper upon the subject. Considerable animosity exists against the Brazilians, in consequence of their continuing to occupy the other side of the river. The frigate departed on 16th March. The officers appeared well-behaved men.

[35] It is amusing to hear the opinion which most foreigners entertain of his majesty George IV. of Great Britain. They fancy him another Don Giovanni. I was riding with a Portuguese officer, near Colonia, one evening in December, 1821, when we heard the discharge of minute guns fired from H.M.S. Slaney, in the outer roads of Buenos Ayres, upon the death of the Queen. I explained to the Portuguese the cause of the firing: he smiled, and exclaimed, “Is it possible that your libertine King has ordered a mourning salvo upon such an occasion? surely it must mean a rejoicing.” The people in Colonia, I found, harboured pretty much the same opinion; so I thought it behoved me, as a good and loyal subject, to take up the cudgels in defence of his majesty, of whom I am a great admirer; and I took great pains to impress upon them, that the chief failings laid to his majesty’s charge were nothing more than those so common with our countrymen, viz. a too enthusiastic devotion at the shrines of Venus and Bacchus.

[36] Among the toasts given at one of the banquets held in honour of the victory of Ayacucho, Mr. Canning’s health was drank in the following terms:—“El Sabio Ministro de Inglaterra, el primer Estadista del mundo, el Honorable George Canning, fiel amigo de la libertad! la justicia preside en sus deliberaciones; su nombre sera un motivo de placer para nostros, y para las generaciones que nos sucedan.” Translation: “The learned Minister of England, the first Statesman in the world, the Honourable George Canning, the faithful friend of liberty! justice presides in his deliberations; his name will be an honour to place amongst our’s, and the generations which succeed us.”

Mr. Canning is highly popular in Buenos Ayres, especially with the Creolian part of the inhabitants: a report that he had resigned office, created much uneasiness, as he is looked up to as the firmest friend of South American liberty. The Éclat of his ministerial career throws into the shade the Castlereagh quarrel, and his alleged desertion of the King in the affair of the Queen. Such appears to be Mr. Canning’s popularity, that his enemies may now “scoff in safety.”

[37] Senor Don Valentin Gomez belongs to the clergy: he has talents and eloquence, and is withal a handsome man, with a face as rosy as an English fox-hunter. As he was returning from Rio, in the British brig Agenoria, the brig struck upon the English bank in the river Plate, on the 11th March, 1824: there were eleven passengers on board. The captain left the vessel to get assistance, which was promptly dispatched from Buenos Ayres; but before any thing effectual could be done, eleven persons had quitted the wreck, on four rafts: one was picked up by a Portuguese vessel, containing five persons, who, after enduring great misery, arrived at Rio Janeiro; of the other three no tidings have since been heard. Those that remained on the wreck, amongst whom was Mr. Gomez, and Mr. George Brittain, an Englishman, were preserved: they, too, encountered great privations. This misfortune caused great anxiety in Buenos Ayres, from the extensive connections of Senor Gomez, and his secretary, Lucca, a young man of considerable acquirements, and who was one that perished. The brig of war, in the outer roads, was ordered to signalize, should she gain information from vessels arriving; and, on doing so, the Fort fired a gun, and hoisted a flag; crowds went to the beach. Upon Padre Gomez’s arrival, he was met by relations and friends, the females crying for joy. The sufferings of the Padre had not blanched the roses in his cheeks: he came on shore as blooming as ever. Blame has been attributed to the captain: he had often navigated this river, and, perhaps, was too confident. A Danish and American ship passed at the time of the wreck, and have been much censured for not rendering assistance.