William Lithgow

Now Creta comes, the Mediterren Queene,

To my sought view, where golden Ida’s seene:

Cut with the Labrinth of th’ old Minatoure,

Thence tracd I all, the Syclads fifty foure:

With Nigropont and Thessaly amaine,

Macedon, Pernassus, the Achaian plaine;

Tenedos and Troy, long Phrigia sixt,

Sestos, Abidos, Adrianopole vext;

Colchis, falne Thebes, Hellespont, and more,

Constantinople, earths best soveraigne glore:

The Euxine sea, and Pompeys pillar prest,

In Peru then, Ile take my Winters rest.

The Ile of Candy formerly called Creta, hath to the North the Ægean sea, to the West the sea Ionian; to the South the Libique sea, and to the East, the Carpathian sea: It lieth midway twixt Achaia [III. 78.]in Greece and Cyrene in Affrick, not being distant from the one, nor from the other, above two dayes sayling: It is a most famous and auncient Kingdome: By moderne Writers, it is called Queene of The antiquity of Candy.the Iles Mediterrene: It had of olde an hundreth Citties, whereof it had the name Hecatompolis, but now onely foure, Candia, Canea, Rethimos, and Scythia, the rest are but Villages and Bourges. It is of length, to wit, from Capo Ermico in the West, called by Pliny, Frons arietis, and Capo Salomone in the East, two hundreth and forty Miles, large threescore, and of circuit sixe hundreth and fifty miles.

This is the chiefe Dominion, belonging to the Venetian Reipublique: In every one of these foure Citties, there is a Governour, and two Counsellors, sent from Venice every two yeares. The Countrey is divided into foure parts, under the jurisdiction of the foure Citties, for the better administration of Justice: and they have a Generall, who commonly remaineth in the Citty of Candy (like to a Viceroy) who deposeth, or imposeth Magistrates, Captaines, Souldiers, Officers, and others whatsoever, in the behalfe of Saint Marke or Duke of Venice. The Venetians detaine continually a strong guard, divided in Companies, Squadrons, and Garrisons, in the Citties and Fortresses of the Iland: which do extend to the number of 12000. Souldiers, kept, not onely for the incursion of Turks, but also for feare of the Creets or Inhabitants, who would rather (if they could) render to the Turke, then to live under the subjection of Venice, thinking thereby to have more liberty, & lesse taxed under the Infidell, then now they are under the Christian.

This Ile produceth the best Malvasy, Muscadine and Leaticke wines, that are in the whole Universe. It yeeldeth Orenges, Lemmons, Mellons, Cytrons, Grenadiers, [III. 79.]Adams Apples, Raisins, Olives, Dates, Hony, Sugar, Vua di tre volte, and all other kindes of fruite in abundance. But the most part of the Cornes are brought yearely from Archipelago and Greece. The Rivers of Candy.The chiefe Rivers are Cataracho, Melipotomos, Escasino; being all of them shallow and discommodious for shipping, in respect of their short courses, and rocky passages: And the principall Citties of olde, were Gnassus, where Minos kept his Court, 2. Cortina, 3. Aphra and Cydonia. This Countrey was by Marcellus made subject to the Romanes: It was afterward given by Baldwin Earle of Flanders, the first Latin Emperor of Constantinople to Boniface of Montserrat, who sold it, Anno 1194. to the Venetians.

This much of the Ile in generall; and now in respect of my travelling two times through the bounds of the whole Kingdome, which was never before atchieved by any Traveller in Christendome; I will as briefly as I can in particular, relate a few of these miseries indured by me in this Land, with the nature & quality of the people.

This aforesaid Carabusa, is the principall Fortresse of Creta, being of it selfe invincible, and is not unlike to the Castle of Dunbertan, which standeth at the mouth of Clyd; upon which River The old and famous City of Lanerke.the auncient City of Lanerke is situated: For this Fort is environed with a Rocke higher then the wals, and joyneth close with Capo Ermico: having learned of the theevish way I had to Canea, I advised to put my mony in exchange, which the Captaine of that strength very curteously performed; and would also have diswaded me from my purpose, but I by no perswasion of him would stay. From thence departing, all alone, scarcely was I advanced twelve miles in my way, when I was beset on the skirt of a Rocky Mountaine; with three Greeke murdering Renegadoes, and an Italian [III. 80.]Bandido: who laying hands on me, beate me most cruelly, robbed me of all my clothes, and stripped me naked, threatning me with many grievous speeches.

At last the respective Italian, perceiving I was a stranger, and could not speake the Cretan tongue, began to aske me in his owne language, where was my money? to whom I soberly answered, I had no more then he saw, which was fourescore Bagantines: which scarcely amounted to two groats English: But he not giving credit to these words, searched all my clothes and Budgeto, yet found nothing except my linnen, and Letters of recommendations I had from divers Princes of Christendome, especially the Duke of Venice, whose subjects they were, if they had beene lawfull subjects: Which when he saw, did move him to compassion, and earnestly entreated the other three theeves to grant me mercy, and to save my life: A happy deliverance.A long deliberation being ended, they restored backe againe my Pilgrimes clothes, and Letters, but my blew gowne and Bagantines they kept: Such also was their theevish courtesie toward me, that for my better safegard in the way, they gave me a stamped piece of clay, as a token to shew any of their companions, if I encountred with any of them; for they were about twenty Rascalles of a confederate band, that lay in this desart passage.

Leaving them with many counterfeit thankes, I travelled that day seaven and thirty miles, and at night attained to the unhappy Village of Pickehorno: where I could have neither meate, drinke, lodging, nor any refreshment to my wearied body. These desperate Candiots thronged about me, gazing (as though astonished) to see me both want company, and their Language, and by their cruell [III. 81.]lookes, they seemed to be a barbarous and uncivill people: Cruell Candiots.For all these High-landers of Candy, are tyrannicall, blood-thirsty, and deceitfull. The consideration of which and the appearance of my death, signed to me secretly by a pittifull woman, made me to shun their villany in stealing forth from them in the darke night, and privately sought for a secure place of repose in a umbragious Cave by the Sea side, where I lay till morning with a fearefull heart, a crased body, a thirstie stomacke, and a hungry belly.

Upon the appearing of the next Aurora, and when the welkin, had put aside the vizard of the night, the Starres being coverd, and the earth discoverd by the Sunne; I imbraced my unknowne way, and about midday came to Canea: Invinceable Canea.Canea is the second Citie of Creete, called aunciently Cydon, being exceeding populous, well walled, and fortified with Bulwarkes: It hath a large Castle, containing ninety seaven Pallaces, in which the Rector and other Venetian Gentlemen dwell. There lye continually in it seaven Companies of Souldiers who keepe Centinell on the walles, guarde the gates and Market places of the Citie: Neither in this Towne nor Candia, may any Countrey Peasant enter with weapons (especially Harquebuzes) for that conceived feare they have of Treason. Truely this City may equall in strength, either Zara in Dalmatia, or Luka, or Ligorne, both in Tuscana, or matchlesse Palma in Friuly: for these five Cities are so strong, that in all my Travells I never saw them matched. They are all well provided with abundance of Artilery, and all necessary things for their defence, especially Luka, which continually reserves in store provision of victuals for twelve yeares siege.

In my first abode in Canea, being a fortnight, there came 6. Gallies from Venice, upon one of which there [III. 82.]was a young French Gentleman, a Protestant, borne neare Monpeillier in Langadocke; who being by chance in company with other foure of his Countrey-men in Venice, one of them killed a young Noble Venetian, about the quarrell of a Courtezan: Whereupon they flying to the French Ambassadours house, the rest escaped, and he onely apprehended by a fall in his flight, was afterward condemned by the Senatours to the Galleys induring life. Now the Galleys lying here sixe dayes, he got leave of the Captaine to come a shoare with a Keeper, when he would, carrying an yron bolt on his legge: In which time we falling in acquaintance, he complained heavily of his hard fortune, and how because he was a Protestant, (besides his slavery) he was severely abused in the Galley; A Religious comfort.sighing forth these words with teares, Lord have mercy upon me, and graunt me patience, for neither friends, nor money can redeeme me: At which expression I was both glad and sorrowfull, the one moving my soule to exult in joy for his Religion: the other, for his misfortunes, working a Christian condolement for intolerable affliction: For I was in Venice, at that same time when this accident fell out, yet would not tell him so much: But pondering seriously his lamentable distresse, I secretly advised him the manner how he might escape, and how farre I would hazard the liberty of my life for his deliverance, desiring him to come a shoare earely the next morning. Meane while I went to an old Greekish woman, with whom I was friendly inward, for she was my Landresse; and reciting to her the whole businesse, she willingly condiscended to lend me an old gowne, and a blacke vaile for his disguisement. The time come, and we met, the matter was difficult to shake off the Keeper; but such was my plot, I did invite him to the Wine, where [III. 83.]after tractall discourses, and deepe draughts of Leatick, reason failing, sleepe overcame his sences. Whereupon conducting my friend to the appointed place, I disburdened him of his Irons, clothed him in a female habite, and sent him out before me, conducted by the Greekish woman: And when securely past both Guards and Gate, I followed, carrying with me his clothes: where, when accoasting him by a field of Olives, and the other returned backe, we speedily crossed the vale of Suda, and interchanging his apparrell, I directed him the way over A place of refuge.the Mountaines to a Greekish convent on the South side of the land, a place of safeguard, called commonly the Monastery of refuge; where he would kindly be entertained, till either the Galleys, or men of Warre of Malta arrived: It being a custome at their going, or comming from the Levante to touch here, to relieve and carry away distressed men: This is a place whereunto Bandits, men slayers, and robbers repaire for reliefe.

And now many joyfull thanks from him redounded, I returned keeping the high way, where incontinent I encountred two English Souldiers, John Smith, and Thomas Hargrave, comming of purpose to informe me of an eminent danger, shewing me that all the Officers of the Galleys, with a number of Souldiers were in searching the City, and hunting all over the fields for me: After which relation, consulting with them, what way I could come to the Italian Monastery Saint Salvator, for there I lay; (the vulgar Towne affording neither lodging nor beds). They answered me, they would venture their lives for my liberty, and I should enter at the Easterne (the least frequented) gate of the City, where three other English men were that day on guard, for so there were five of them here in Garison: Where, when we came, [III. 84.]the other English accompanied with eight French souldiers their familiars, came along with us also: And having past the Market place, and neere my lodging, foure Officers and sixe Galley souldiers, runne to lay hands on me: whereat the English and French unsheathing their Swords, valiantly resisted their fury, and deadly wounded two of the Officers: Meane while fresh supply comming from the Galleys, John Smith runne along with me to the Monastery, leaving the rest at pell mell, to intercept their following: At last the Captaines of the Garrison approaching the tumult, relieved their owne Souldiers, and drove backe the other to the Galleys. A little thereafter the Generall of the Galleys come to the Monastery, and examined me concerning the fugitive, but I cleering my selfe so, and quenching the least suspition he might conceive (notwithstanding of mine accusers) hee could lay nothing to my charge: howsoever it was, he seemed somewhat favourable; partly, because I had the Duke of Venice his Pasport, partly, because of mine intended voyage to Jerusalem; partly, because he was a great favourer of the French Nation: and partly because he could not mend himselfe, in regard of my shelter, and the Governours favour: yet neverthelesse, I detained my selfe under Cloysters are safeguards.safeguard of the Cloyster, untill the Galleys were gone.

Being here disappointed of transportation to Archipelago, I advised to visit Candy: and in my way I past by the large Haven of Suda, which hath no Towne or Village, save onely a Castle, situated on a Rocke in the Sea, at the entry of the Bay: the bounds of that Harbour may receive at one time above two thousand Shippes and Galleys, and is the onely Key of the Iland: for the which place, the King of Spaine hath oft offered an infinite deale of money to the Venetians, whereby his Navy [III. 85.]which sometimes resort in the Levante, might have accesse and reliefe; but they would never graunt him his request; which policy of his was onely to have surprized the Kingdome.

South-west from this famous harbour, lieth a pleasant plaine surnamed The pleasant valley of Suda.the Valley of Suda: It is twenty Italian Miles long, and two of breadth: And I remember, or I discended to crosse the Valley, and passe the haven, me thought the whole planure resembled to me a greene sea; and that was onely by reason of infinite Olive trees grew there, whose boughes and leaves over-toppe all other fructiferous trees in that plaine: The Villages for losse of ground are all built on the skirts of Rockes, upon the South side of the Valley; yea, and so difficile to climbe them, and so dangerous to dwell in them, that me thought their lives were in like perill, as he who was adjoyned to sit under the poynt of a two handed sword, and it hanging by the haire of a horse tayle.

Trust me, I told along these Rockes at one time, and within my sight, some 67. Villages; but when I entred the valley, I could not find a foote of ground unmanured, save a narrow passing way wherein I was: The Olives, Pomgranets, Dates, Figges, Orenges, Lemmons, and Pomi del Adamo growing all through other: And at the rootes of which trees grew Wheate, Malvasie, Muscadine, Leaticke Wines, Grenadiers, Carnobiers, Mellones, and all other sorts of fruites and hearbes, the earth can yeeld to man; that for beauty, pleasure, and profit it may easily be surnamed, the garden of the whole Universe: being the goodliest plot, the Diamond sparke, and the Honny spot of all Candy: There is no land more temperate for ayre, for it hath a double spring-tyde; no soyle more [III. 86.]fertile, and therefore it is called the Combat of Bachus and Ceres; nor region or valley more hospitable, in regard of the sea, having such a noble haven cut through its bosome, being as it were the very resting place of Neptune.

Upon the third dayes journey from Canea, I came to Rethimos; This City is somewhat ruinous, and unwalled, but the Citizens have newly builded a strong Fortresse, but rather done by the State of Venice, which defendeth them from the invasion of Pyrats: It standeth by the sea side, and in the yeare 1597. It was miserably sacked, and burned with Turkes. Continuing my voyage, I passed along the skirt of Mount Ida.Mount Ida, accompanied with Greekes, who could speake the Italian tongue, on which, first they shewed me the cave of King Minos, but some hold it to be the Sepulcher of Jupiter. That Groto was of length eighty paces, and eight large: This Minos was sayd to be the brother of Radamanthus, and Sarpedon; who, after their succession to the Kingdome, established such Æquitable lawes, that by Poets they are feigned with Æacus to be the Judges of Hell. I saw also there, the place where Jupiter (as they say) was nourished by Amalthes, which by Greekes is recited, as well as Latine Poets.

Thirdly, they shewed me the Temple of Saturne, which is a worke to be admired, of such Antiquity, and as yet undecayed; who (say they) was the first King that inhabited there, and Father to Jupiter. And neare to it is the demolished Temple of Matelia, having this superscription above the doore, yet to be seene: Make cleane your feete, wash your hands and enter. Fourthly, I saw the entry into the Dedalus Laborinth.Laborinth of Dedalus, which I would gladly have better viewed, but because we had no Candle-light, we durst not enter: for there are many hollow places within it: so that if a man stumble, or fall, [III. 87.]he can hardly be rescued: It is cut forth with many intricating wayes, on the face of a little hill, joyning with Mount Ida, having many doores and pillars. Here it was where Theseus by the helpe of Ariadne the daughter of King Minos, taking a bottome of threed, and tying the one end at the first doore, did enter and slay the Minotaurus, who was included there by Dedalus: This Minotaure is sayd to have bene begot by the lewd and luxurious Pasiphae, who doted on a white Bull.

Mount Ida is the highest Mountaine in Creta, and by the computation of Shepheards feete, amounteth to sixe miles of height: It is over-clad even to the toppe with Cypre trees, and good store of medicinable hearbes: insomuch that the beasts which feede thereupon, have their teeth gilded, like to the colour of Gold: Mount Ida, of old was called Phelorita, by some Cadussa, but modernely Madura: It is sayd by some Historians, that no venemous animall can live in this Ile; but I saw the contrary: Historian errours.For I kild on a Sunday morning hard by the Sea-side, and within two miles of Rethimos, two Serpents and a Viper: One of which Serpents, was above a yard and halfe in length, for they being all three rolling within the coverture of the dry sands, my right legge was almost in their reverence before I remarked the danger: Wherefore many build upon false reports, but experience teacheth men the trueth.

Some others also Historize, that if a Woman here, bite a man any thing hard, he will never recover: and that there is an hearbe called Allimos in this Iland, which if one chaw in his mouth, he shall not feele hunger for foure and twenty howres: all which are meere fabulous, such is the darkenesse of cloudy inventions.

Descending from this Mountaine, I entred in a faire [III. 88.]plaine, beautified with many Villages; in one of which, I found a Grecian Bishop, who kindly presented me with grapes of Malvasie, and other things, for it was in the time of their vintage. To carry these things he had given me, he caused to make ready an Asse, and a Servant, who went with me to Candy, which was more then fifteene miles from his house. True it is, that the best sort of Greekes, in visiting other, doe not use to come empty handed, neither will they suffer a stranger to depart without both gifts and convoy.

I remember along this sassinous and marine passage, I found three fountaines gushing forth of a Rocke, each one within a yard of other, having three sundry tasts: the first water was exceeding light, and sweet; the middle or second, marvelous sowre and heavy: the third was bitter and extraordinary salt: so that in so short bounds so great difference, I never found before, nor afterward.

The City of Candy.Candy is distant from Canea a hundreth miles, Rethimos being halfe way betwixt both: so is Candy halfe way in the same measure, twixt Rethimos and Scythia, and Canea the like twixt Rethimos and Carabusa, being in all 200. miles.

Candy is a large and famous City, formerly called Matium, situated on a plaine by the sea side, having a goodly Haven for shippes, and a faire Arsenall wherein are 36. Gallies: It is exceeding strong, and dayly guarded with 2000. Souldiers, and the walles in compasse are about three leagues.

In this time there was no Viceroy, the former being newly dead, and the place vacant, the Souldiers kept a bloody quarter among themselves, or against any whomsoever their malignity was intended, for in all the time I stayed there being ten dayes, it was nothing to see every [III. 89.]day foure or five men killed in the streetes: neither could the Rector, nor the Captaines helpe it, so tumultuous were the disordered Souldiers, and the occasions of revenge and quarrellings so influent. This commonly they practise in every such like vacation, which otherwise, they durst never attempt without death, and severe punishment; and truely me thought it was as barbarous a governed place for the time, as ever I saw in the world: For hardly could I save my owne life free from their dangers, in the which I was twice miserably involved.

Distances from Candy.Candy is distant from Venice 1300. miles, from Constantinople 700. from Famagusta in Cyprus, 600. from Alexandria in Ægypt, 500. from Tripoli in Siria 700. from Naples 900. from Malta 500. from Smyrna, in Carmania of Natolia 400. and from the Citty of Jerusalem, 900. miles. The Candeots through all the Iland, make muster every eight day, before the Serjant-majors, or Officers of the Generall, and are well provided with all sorts of Armour; yea, and the most valerous people that hight the name of Greekes. It was told me by the Rector of Candy, that they may raise in Armes of the Inhabitants (not reckoning the Garrisons) above sixty thousand men, all able for warres, with 54. Gallies, and 24. Galleots for the sea.

In all my travels through this Realme, I never could see a Greeke come forth of his house unarmed: and after such a martiall manner, that on his head he weareth a bare steele cap, a bow in his hand, a long sword by his side, a broad Ponard overthwart his belly, and a round Target hanging at his girdle. They are not costly in apparell, for they weare but linnen cloathes, and use no shooes but bootes of white leather, to keepe their legges in the fields from the prickes of a kind of Thistle, wherewith [III. 90.]the Countrey is overcharged like unto little bushes or short shrubs which are marvelous sharpe, and offensive unto the inhabitants, whereof, often a day to my great harme, I found their bloody smart: The women generally weare linnen breaches as men do, and bootes after the same manner, and their linnen coates no longer then the middle of their thighes, and are insatiably inclined to Venery, such is the nature of the soyle and climate. The Creets turnd Critticks.auncient Cretans were such notable lears, that the heathen Poet Epimenides, yea, and the Apostle Paul in his Epistle to Titus, did tearme them to have beene ever liers, evill beasts, and slow bellies: whence sprung these proverbs, as Cretense mendacium, & cretisandum est cum cretensibus.

The Candiots are excellent good Archers, surpassing all the Orientall people therein, couragious and valiant upon the Sea, as in former times they were; and they are naturally inclined to singing: so that commonly after meat, Man, Wife, and Child of each family, will for the space of an houre, sing with such a harmony, as is wonderfull melodious to the hearer; yea, and they cannot forgoe the custome of it.

Their Harvest is our Spring: for they manure the ground, and sow the seed in October, which is reaped in March, and Aprill. Being frustrate of my intention at Candy, I was forced to returne to Canea the same way I went: when come, I was exceeding merry with my old friends the English-men: Meane-while there arrived from Tunnis in Barbary, An English runagate.an English Runagate named Wolson, bound for the Rhodes: where after short acquaintance with his natives, and understanding what I was, he imparted these words, I have had my elder brother, sayd he, the Maister (or Captaine) of a ship, slaine at Burnt-Iland [III. 91.]in Scotland by one called Keere; and notwithstanding he was beheaded, I have long since sworne to be revenged of my brothers death, on the first Scotsman I ever saw or met, and my designe is, to stob him with a knife this night, as he goeth late home to his lodging desiring their assistance: But Smith, Hargrave, and Horsfeild refused, yet Cooke and Rollands yeelded. Meane-while Smith knowing where I used sometimes to diet, found me at supper in a Sutlers, a souldiers house, where acquainting me with this plot, the hoste, he, and three Italian souldiers conveighed me to my bed, passing by the arch-villaine, and his confederats, where he was prepared for the mischiefe: which when he saw his treachery was discovered, he fled away, & was seene no more here.

Remarking the fidelity and kindnesse that Smith had twice shewen me, first in freeing me from the danger of galley-slavery, and now in saving my life, I advised to doe him a good deed in some part of acquittance, and thus it was: Smith relieved from long bondage.At his first comming to Venice, he was taken up as a souldier for Candy: where, when transported, within a small time he found the Captaines promise and performance different, which enforced him at the beginning to borrow a little money of his Lieutenant: the five yeares of their abode expired, and fresh Companies come from Venice to exhibit the charge, Smith not being able to discharge his debt, was turned over to the new Captaine for five yeares more, who payed the old Captaine his mony; and his time also worne out, the third Captaine came, where likewise he was put in his hands serving him five yeares longer.

Thus having served three Captaines fifteene yeares, and never likely able (for a small trifle) to attaine his liberty, [III. 92.]I went to the Captaine and payed his debt, obtaining also of the Rector his licence to depart; and the allowance of the State for his passage, which was Wine and Biscot-bread: Thereafter: I imbarked him for Venice in a Flemish ship, the Maister being a Scotsman, John Allen borne in Glasgow, and dwelt at Middleborough in Zeland, his debt was onely forty eight shillings starling.

Here I stayed in Canea twenty five dayes before I could get passage for the Arch Ilands, being purposed for Constantinople; but gladly would not have left the Monastary of these foure Friars, with whom I was lodged, if it had not beene for my designes; in regard of their great cheere and deepe draughts of Malvasey I received hourely, and oftentimes against my will: Every night after supper, the Friars forced me to dance with them, either one gagliard or other: Drunken Fryers.Their Musicke in the end was sound drunkennesse, and their Syncopa turnd to spew up all, and their bed converted to a boord, or else the hard floore, for these beastly swine, were nightly so full, that they had never power to goe to their owne chambers, but where they fell, there they lay till the morne: the cloyster it selfe had two faire Courts, the least of which might have lodged any King of Europe: The Church was little, and among the foure Friars, there was but one Masse-Priest, being a Greeke borne and turn’d to the Roman faction: his new name was Pattarras Matecarras, Pater Libenter, or Father of free will, indeed a right name for so sottish a fellow, for he was so free of his stomacke to receive in strong liquor, that for the space of twenty dayes of my being there, I never saw him, nor any one of the other three truely sober. Many odde merriments and jests have I observed of these Friars of Candie, but time will not suffer me to relate them, onely remitting the rest to my privat discourse, a figge for their folly.

[III. 93.]I travelled on foot in this Ile more then foure hundred miles, and upon the fifty eight day after my first comming to Carabusa, I imbarked in a Fisher-boat that belonged to Milo, being a hundred miles distant, which had beene violently driven thither with stormy weather.

And in our passing thither, we were in danger to be over-runne two severall times, with two huge broken Seas, which twice covered the body of the closse boat: yet with extreame fortune we arrived at Milo in a bay of the East corner of the Ile, being about St. Andrewes day, where the poore Greeks tooke me up to their Village, two miles distant from this Creeke, and I abode with them foure dayes.

Milo.Milo was called by Aristotle, Melada, and by others, Mimalida, Melos: And lastly Milo; because of the fine mil-stones that are got there, which are transported to Constantinople, Greece, and Natolia. This Ile is one of the Iles Cyclades, or Sporades, but more commonly Archipelago, or the Arch-Ilands, and standeth in the beginning of the Ægean sea: The Inhabitants are Greekes, but slaves to the Turke, and so are all the fifty foure Iles of the Cyclades, save onely Tino, which holdeth of the Venetians.

From Milo I came to Zephano in a small boat, an Iland of circuit about twenty miles, and ten miles distant from Milo: The Inhabitants are poore, yet kind people: There are an infinite number of Partridges within this Ile, of a reddish colour, and bigger then ours in Brittaine: They are wilde, and onely killed by small shot; but I have seene in other Ilands flockes of them feeding in the fields, and usually kept by children: Some others I have seene [III. 94.]in the streetes of Villages, without any keeper, even as our Hennes doe with us. I saw fountaines here, that naturally yeeld fine Oyle, which is the greatest advantage the Ilanders have.

Zephano.Zephano did once produce the Calamita, and was renowned for the fine Mines of Gold and Silver, of which now it is altogether desolate: There is also fine Sulphur here, and exceeding good Marble: from whence Lucullus was the first that transported it to Rome: There is a certaine ground in this Ile, where it is sayd, that if any take it away, or digge deepe holes, the earth of it selfe in a small time will surcrease without any ayde of man. East from Milo and Zephano, lye the Iles Policandro, and Christiana, formerly Laguso, Sicandro; and Sasurnino, anciently Calistha, famous for the birth of the Poet Calimachus.

From thence I imbarked, and arrived at Angusa in Parir.Parir: This Ile is forty miles long, and sixe miles broad: being plentifull enough in all necessary things for the use of man: It was aunciently called Demetriado, whose length lieth South-west, and North-East: And hard by the high Mountaine of Camphasia, neere to Angusa, on a faire Valley standeth the auncient Temple of Venus, never a whit decayed to this day: This Ile was given to the Venetians by Henry the Constantinopolitan Emperour, and brother to Baldwin Earle of Flanders: and it was seazed upon by Mahomet, when Nigropont, and diverse other Iles were surprised from the Venetians.

In Angusa I stayed sixteene dayes, storme-sted with Northernely winds; and in all that time, I never came in bed: for my lodging was in a little Chappell a mile without the Village, on hard stones; where I also had a fire, and dressed my meate. The Greekes visited me oftentimes, & intreated me above all things I should not [III. 95.]enter within the bounds of their Sanctuary; because I was not of their Religion. But I in regard of the longsome and cold nights, was enforced every night to creepe in, in the midst or the Sanctuary to keepe my selfe warme, which Sanctuary was nothing but an Aultar hembd in with a partition wall about my height, dividing the little roome from the body of the Chappell.

These miserable Ilanders, are a kind of silly poore people; which in their behaviour, shewed the necessity they had to live, rather then any pleasure in their living. From thence I imbarked on a small barke of ten Tunnes come from Scithia in Candy, and loaden with Oyle, and about midday we arrived in the Ile of Mecano, where we but only dined, and so set forward to Zea.

This Mecano was formely called Delos, famous for the Temple of Apollo, being the chiefe Ile of the Cyclades, the rest of the 54. incircling it: Delos signifieth apparant, because at the request of Juno, when all the earth had Latona receaved in Delos.abjured the receipt of Latona: This Iland then under the water, was by Jupiter erected aloft, and fixt to receive her, wherein she was delivered of Apollo, and Diana:

In this Ile they retaine a custome, neither permitting men to dye, or children to be borne in it: but alwayes when men fall sicke, and women grow great bellied, they send them to Rhena a small Isoletta, and two miles distant.

[III. 96.]Zea to which we arrived from Mecano, was so called of Zeo, the sonne of Phebo; and of some, Tetrapoli; because of the foure Citties that were there of old. Symonides the Poet, and Eristato the excellent Physition, were borne in it. The next Ile of any note we touched at, was Tino: This Iland is under the Signory of Venice, and was sometime beautified with the Temple of Neptune. By Aristotle it was called Idrusa; of Demostenes, and Eschines, Erusea: It hath an impregnable Castle, builded on the top of a high Rocke, towards the East-end or Promontore of the Ile, and ever provided with three yeares provision, and a Garison of two hundreth Souldiers: So that the Turkes by no meanes can conquer it. The Iland it selfe is twenty miles in length, and a great refuge for all Christian Shippes and Galleys that haunt in the Levante.

The Ile of Pathmos.From this Ile I came to Palmosa, sometime Pathmos, which is a mountainous and barren Iland: It was here that Saint John wrote the Revelation after he was banished by Domitianus the Emperour. Thence I imbarked to Nicaria, and sayled by the Ile Scyro; which of old was the Signory of Licomedes, and in the habit of a woman, was Achilles brought up here, because his mother being by an Oracle premonished, that he should be killed in the Trojan Warre, sent him to this Iland; where he was maiden-like brought up amongst the Kings daughters: who in that time, begot Pyrhus upon Deidamia, the daughter of Licomedes, and where the crafty Ulysses afterward did discover this fatall Prince to Troy. As we fetched up the sight of Nicaria, we espied two Turkish Galleots, who gave us the Chace, and pursued us, straight to a bay, betwixt two Mountaines, where we left the loaden boate, and fled to the Rockes, from whence we mightily annoyed with huge tumbling stones, the persuing [III. 97.]Turkes: But in our flying, the Maister was taken, and other two old men; whom they made captives and slaves: and also seized upon the Boate, and all their goods: The number of us that escaped were nine persons.

This Ile Nicaria, was aunciently called Doliche, and Ithiosa, and is somewhat barren: having no Sea-port at all: It was here, the Poets feigned, that Icarus the sonne of Dedalus fell, when as he tooke flight from Creta, with his borrowed wings, of whom it hath the name; and Ovid de Trist.not following directly his father Dedalus, was here drowned.

Expecting certaine dayes here, in a Village called Laphantos, for passage to Sio, at last I found a Brigandino bound thither, that was come from the fruitfull Ile of Stalimene, of old Lemnos. This Ile of Stalimene is in circuit 90. miles, where in Hephestia it’s Metropolis, Vulcans birth.Vulcan was mightily adored; who being but a homely brat, was cast downe hither by Juno, whereby it was no marvaile if he became crooked, and went a halting: The soveraigne minerall against infections, called Teera Lemnia, or Sigillata is digged here: The former name proceedeth from the Iland: The latter is in force, because the earth being made up in little pellets, is sealed with a Turkish Signet, and so sold, and dispersed over Christendome. Having imbarked in the aforesaid Brigandine, we sayled by the Ile Samos, which is opposite to Caria, in Asia minor, where the Tyrant Policrates lived [III. 98.]so fortunate, as he had never any mischance all this time, till at last Orientes a Persian brought him to a miserable death: Leaving us an example, that fortune is certaine in nothing but in incertainties, who like a Bee with a sharpe sting, hath alwaies some misery following a long concatenation of felicities: It is of circuit 160. and of length 40. miles: It was of old named Driusa, and Melanphilo, in which Pythagoras the Philosopher, and Lycaon the excellent Musitioner were borne.

Upon our left hand, and opposit to Samos lyeth the Nixia.Ile of Nixia, formerly Naxos; in circuit 68. miles: It was also called the Ile of Venus, and Dionisia, and was taken from the Venetians by Selim, the father of Soliman: East from Nixia, lieth the Ile Amurgospolo, in circuit twenty leagues, it hath three commodious ports, named St. Anna, Calores, and Cataplino: A little from hence, and in sight of Natolia, lieth the Ile Calamo, formerly Claros, in circuit thirty miles: and Eastward thence the little Ile of Lerno, five leagues in circuit, all inhabited with Greeks, and they, the silly ignorants of nature: South-east from this lieth the The Ile of Lango.Ile of Coos now Lango: by the Turkes called Stanccow, the Capitall Towne is Arango, where Hypocrates and Apelles the Painter were borne: In this Ile, there is a wine named by the Greekes, Hyppocon, that excelleth in sweetnesse all other wines except the Malvasie, and it aboundeth in Cypre and Turpentine trees: There is here a part of the Ile disinhabited, in regard of a contagious Lake, that infecteth the ayre, both Summer, and Winter. There is abundance of Alloes found here, so much esteemed by our Pothecaries; the rest of this Ile shall be touched in the owne place. And neere to Lango, lyeth the Ile Giara, now Stopodia, it is begirded with Rocks and desartuous, unto which the [III. 99.]Romans were wont to send in banishment such as deserved death: In generall of these Iles Cyclads, because they are so neere one to another, and each one in sight of another, there are many Cursares and Turkish Galleots, that still afflict these Ilanders: Insomuch that the Inhabitants are constrained to keepe watch day and night, upon the tops of the most commodious Mountaines, to discover these Pirats; which they easily discerne from other vessells, The danger of Turkish Pirats.both because of their Sayles and Oares: And whensoever discovered, according to the number of cursary Boates, they make as many fires, which giveth warning to all the Ports to be on guard: And if the Sea voyagers in passing see no signe on these Iles, of fire or smoake, then they perfectly know, these Laborinthing Seas, are free from pestilent Raveners.

As we left the Ile Venico on our left hand, and entred in the gulfe betweene Sio, and Eolida, the firme land is called Æolida, there fell downe a deadly storme, at the Grecoe Levante, or at the North-east, which split our Mast, carrying sayles and all over-boord: Whereupon every man looked (as it were) with the stampe of death in his pale visage. The tempest continuing (our Boate not being able to keepe the Seas) we were constrained to seeke into a creeke, betwixt two Rocks, for safety of our lives; where, when we entred, there was no likely-hood of reliefe: for we had a shelfie shoare, and giving ground to the Ankors, they came both home.

A fearfull shipwracke.The sorrowfull Maister seeing nothing but shipwrack, tooke the Helme in hand, directing his course to rush upon the face of a low Rocke, whereupon the sea most fearefully broke. As we touched the Mariners contending who should first leape out, some fell over-boord, and those that got land, were pulled backe by the reciprocating [III. 100.]waves: Neither in all this time durst I once move; for they had formerly sworne, if I pressed to escape, before the rest were first forth, they would throw me headlong into the sea: So being two wayes in danger of death, I patiently offered up my prayers to God.

At our first encounter with the Rocks, (our fore-decks, and Boates gallery being broke, and a great Lake made) the recoiling waves brought us backe from the Shelfes a great way; which the poore Master perceiving, and that there were seven men drowned, and eleven persons alive, cryed with a loud voyce: Be of good courage, take up oares, and row hastily; it may be, before the Barke sinke, we shall attaine to yonder Cave, which then appeared to our sight: Every man working for his owne deliverance (as it pleased God) we got the same with good fortune: for no sooner were we disbarked, and I also left the last man, but the Boat immediately sunke. There was nothing saved but my Coffino, which I kept alwaies in my armes: partly, that it might have brought my dead body to some creeke, where being found, might have beene by the Greekes buryed; and partly I held it fast also, A happy deliverance from shipwracke.that saving my life, I might save it too; it was made of Reeds and would not easily sinke, notwithstanding of my papers and linnen I carried into it: for the which safety of my things, the Greekes were in admiration. In this Cave, which was 30. paces long, within the mountaine, we abode three daies without either meate or drinke: upon the fourth day at morne, the tempest ceasing, there came Fisher-boates to relieve us, who found the ten Greekes almost famished for lacke of foode; but I in that hunger-starving feare, fed upon the expectation of my doubtfull reliefe.

True it is, a miserable thing it is for man, to grow an example to others in matters of affliction, yet it is necessary that some men should be so: For it pleased [III. 101.]God, having showne a sensible disposition of favour upon me, in humbling me to the very pit of extremities, taught me also by such an unexpected deliverance, both to put my confidence in his eternall goodnesse, and to know the frailty of my owne selfe, and my ambition, which drave me often to such disasters.

The dead men being found on shoare, we buried them; and I learned at that instant time, there were seventeene boats cast away on the Coast of this Iland, and never a man saved: in this place the Greekes set up a stone crosse in the memoriall of such a woefull mischance, and mourned heavily, fasting and praying. I rejoycing and thanking God for my safety (leaving them sorrowing for their friends and goods) tooke journey through the Iland to Sio, for so is the City called, being thirty miles distant: In my way I past by an old Castle standing on a little hill, named Garbos, now Helias; where (as I was informed by two Greekes in my company) the Sepulcher of Homer was yet extant: for this Sio is one of the seven Iles and Townes, that contended for his birth:

The which I willing to see, I entreated my associats to accompany me thither; where, when we came, we descended by 16. degrees into a darke Cell; and passing that, we entred in another foure squared roome, in which Homers Sepulcher.I saw an auncient Tombe, whereon were ingraven Greeke letters, which we could not understand for their antiquity; but whether it was this Tombe or not, I doe not know, but this they related, and yet very likely to have beene his Sepulcher.

[III. 102.]Sio.This Ile of Sio is divided into two parts, to wit, Appanomera, signifying the higher, or upper parts of it: The other Catomerea, that is, the levell, or lower parts of the Ile: It was first called Ethalia: It aboundeth so in Oranges and Lemmons, that they fill Barrels and Pipes with the juyce thereof, and carry them to Constantinople, which the Turkes use at their meate, as we doe the Verges. And also called Pythiosa; next Cios, Acts 20. 15. And by Methrodorus, Chio, or Chione: but at this day Sio. Not long agoe it was under the Genueses, but now governed by the Turkes: It is of circuite an hundreth miles, and famous for the medicinable Masticke that groweth there on Trees: I saw many pleasant Gardens in it, which yeeld in great plenty, Orenges, Lemmons, Apples, Peares, Prunes, Figges, Olives, Apricockes, Dates, Adams Apples, excellent hearbes, faire flowers, sweete Hony, with store of Cypre and Mulbery-trees, and exceeding good silke is made here.

At last I arrived at the Citty of Sio, where I was lodged, and kindly used with an old man, of the Genuesen race, for the space of eight dayes: I found here three Monasteries of the order of Rome, one of the Jesuits, another of Saint Francis, and the third of the Dominican Friers, being all come from Genoa; and because the greatest part of the Citty is of that stocke, and of the Papall Sea, these Cloysters have a braver life for good cheare, fat Wines, and delicate Leachery, than any sort of Friers can elsewhere find in the world.

The faire Dames of Sio.The Women of the Citty Sio, are the most beautifull Dames, (or rather Angelicall creatures) of all the Greekes, upon the face of the earth, and greatly given to Venery.

If Venus foe-saw Sio’s faire-fac’d Dames,

His stomacke cold, would burne, in lust-spred flames.

[III. 103.]They are for the most part exceeding proude, and sumptuous in apparell, and commonly go (even Artificers wives) in gownes of Sattin and Taffety; yea, in Cloth of Silver and Gold, and are adorned with precious Stones, and Gemmes, and Jewels about their neckes, and hands, with Rings, Chaines, & Bracelets. Their Husbands are their Pandors, and when they see any stranger arrive, they will presently demaund of him; if he would have a Mistresse: and so they make Whoores of their owne Wives, and are contented for a little gaine, to weare hornes: such are the base minds of ignominious Cuckolds. If a Straunger be desirous to stay all night with any of them, their price is a Chicken of Gold, nine Shillings English, out of which this companion receiveth his supper, and for his paines, a belly full of sinfull content. This The Fortresse of Sio.Citty of Sio hath a large and strong Fortresse, which was built by the Genueses, and now detained by a Garison of Turkes, containing a thousand fire-houses within it, some whereof are Greekes, some Genoueses, some Turkes, and Moores: The Citty it selfe is unwalled, yet a populous and spacious place, spred along by the Sea-side, having a goodly harbour for Galleyes and Ships, the chiefe Inhabitants there, are descended of the Genoueses, and professe the superstition of Rome: The people whereof were once Lords of the Ægean Sea, maintaining a Navy of eighty Ships: In the ende they became successively subject to the Romane and Greeke Princes; till Andronico Paleologus, gave them and their Ile to the Justinianes, a Noble Family of the Genoueses: from whom it was taken by Solyman the Magnificent on Easter day 1566. being the same yeare that our late gracious, and once Soveraigne Lord, King James of blessed memory was borne. This Cittadale or Fortresse of Sio, standeth full betweene the [III. 104.]Sea, and the Harbour, was invaded by 800. Florentines, sent hither by the great Duke Ferdinando, brother to Queene Mother of Fraunce, and our owne Queene Maries Unkle, Anno 1600. August 7. The manner was thus, The Genouesen seede, had sold the Fort unto the Duke of Florence, whereupon he sent his Galleys and these Gallants thither: Where, when arrived in the night, they scaled the walles, slue the watches, and unhappily ram-forced all the Canon; and then entring the Fort put all the Turkes to the sword, and among them, too many Christians: The Galleys all this time, being doubtfull how it went, durst not enter the harbour, but a storme falling downe, they bore up to an Isolet for ancorage in the Æolid gulfe, and three miles distant: The next morning, the Turkish Bashaw, the Citty, and all the Ilanders were in armes: The Florentines being dismissed of their Galleys, grew discouraged, and trying the Canon, which they had spoyled at their first scallet, it would not be: Meane while, the Bashaw entred in parley with them, and promised faithfully, to send them safe to the Galleys if they would render. Upon the third day they yeeld, and as they issued forth, along the draw bridge, and the Bashaw set in a Tent to receive them as they came in, one by one, The heads of 800. Florentines cut off.he caused strike off all their heads: And done, there was a Pinacle reared upon the Walles of the Fort with their bare sculs which stand to this day.

But by your leave, Ferdinando in person, the yeare following, was more than revenged of such a cruell and faithlesse proceeding: He over-maisterd a Turkish towne and castle, put two thousand Turkes to the sword, sparing neither old nor young, and recoyling infinit richesse and spoyles of the towne, he brought home their heads with him to Ligorne, and set them up there for a mercilesse [III. 105.]monument.

After some certaine dayes attendance, I imbarked in a Carmoesal, bound for Nigropont, which was forth of my way to Constantinople; but because I would gladly have seene Macedonia, and Thessaly, I followed that determination: In our way we touched at The Ile of Mytelene.Mytelene, an Iland of old called Isa: next Lesbos: And lastly Mytelene, of Milet the sonne of Phoebus. Pythacus, one of the seaven Sages of Greece, the most valiant Antimenides, and his brother Alceus the Lyricall Poet, Theophrastus the peripatetike Philosopher, Arion the learned Harper, and the she Poet Sapho, were borne in it.

This Ile of Lesbos or Mytelene, containeth in compasse, one hundreth forty sixe miles: the East parts are levell and fruitfull, the West and South parts mountainous and barren: The chiefe Citties are Mytelene and Methimnos: It was long under subjection of the Romane and Greeke Emperours, till Calo Joannes, Anno 1355. gave it in dowry with his sister, to Catalusio a Nobleman of Genoua; whose posterity enjoyed it till Mahomet (surnamed the Greeke) did seaze on it, 1462.

A comparison of Iles.These Iles Sporades, are scattered in the Ægean Sea, like as the Iles Orcades are in the North Seas of Scotland; but different in clymate and fertility: for these South-easterne Iles in Summer are extreame hot, producing generally (Nigroponti excepted) but a few wines, fruites, and cornes, scarce sufficient to sustaine the Ilanders. But these North-westerne Ilands in Sommer, are neither hot nor cold; having a most wholesome and temperate ayre: and do yeeld abundance of corne, even more then to suffice the Inhabitants; which is yearely transported to the firme land, and sold: They have also good store of Cattell, [III. 106.]and good cheape, and the best fishing that the whole Ocean yeeldeth, is upon the coasts of Orknay and Zetland.

In all these seperated parts of the Earth (which of themselves of old, made up a little Kingdome) you shall alwaies The plentifulnesse of Orkney & Zetland.finde strong March-Ale, surpassing fine Aqua-vitÆ, abundance of Geese, Hennes, Pigeons, Partridges, Moore-Fowle, Mutton, Beefe and Termigants, with an infinite number of Connies, which you may kill with a Crosse-bow, or Harquebuse, every morning forth of your Chamber window, according to your pleasure in that pastime, which I have both practised my selfe, and seene practised by others; for they multiply so exceedingly, that they digge even under the foundations of dwelling houses. Such is the will of God to bestow upon severall places, particular blessings; whereby he demonstrateth to man, the plentifull store-house of his gracious providence, so many manner of wayes upon earth distributed; all glory be to his incomprehensible goodnes therefore. I have seldome seene in all my travells, more toward, and tractable people (I meane their Gentlemen) and better house-keepers, then be these Orcadians, and Zetlanders: whereof in the prime of my adolescency (by two voyages amongst these Northerne Iles) I had the full proofe and experience.

And now certainely, as it is a signe of little wisedome, and greater folly, for a man to answere suddenly to every light question; so it is as great a shame and stupiditie in man to keepe silence, when he should, and may deservingly speake; Wherefore damnifying the one, and vilifying the other, I come forth betweene both (Pugno pro Patria) to have a single bout with the ignorant malice of an imperious and abortive Geographer, brought up in the Schooles neere Thames, & Westward Ho at Oxford; [III. 107.]who blindlings in an absurd description of the world, hath produced many errors, & manifest untrueths to the world.

And these amongst thousands moe, which I justly can censure to be false; namely, he reporteth the Orcadians to be a cruell and barbarous peeple, and that the most part of Scotland regarded neither King nor Law: tearming us also to have monstrous backes, against the execution of Justice: and because (saith he) they resemble us somewhat in visage and speech, the Scots are descended of the Saxons; where when the blacke wings of the Eagle spred in the South, they fled thither, thinking rather to enjoy penurious liberty, then rich fetters of gold: Moreover, False aspersion upon Scotland.that the scurvy Ile of Manne, is so abundant in Oates, Barley, and Wheate, that it supplieth the defects of Scotland; so venemous also is the Wormewood of his braine, that he impugneth Hector Boetius, to have mentioned a rabble of Scottish Kings before Kenneth, the first Monarch of all Scotland; but were he fast rabled in a rope, I thinke his presumptuous and impertinent phrase were well recompensed: Yea, further he dare to write, that if the Mountaines, and unaccessable Woods, had not beene more true to the Scots, then their owne valour, that Kingdome had long since beene subdued.

Many other introductions flow from his shallow base-branded apprehension which I purposely omit: To this his perverst malignitie (without partiall or particular construction) I generally answere; that for courteous penetrating lenity; industrious tractability; prompt and exquisite ingeniosity; nobly taught, vivacious, & vertuous Gentility; humane, and illustrious generosity; inviolate, and uncommixed nationall pedegree; Learned, Academicall, and Ecclesiasticke Clergy; for sincere Religion, and devoute Piety; affable and benevolent Hospitality; civill [III. 108.]& zealous orders in spirituality; so docible a people to supreame regality; and for true valour, courage, and magnanimity; there is no Kingdome or Nation within the compasse of the whole universe, can excell, or compare with it.

Now what a selfe Losungeous fellow hath this fustian companion proved, when the flat contrary of his abjured impositions, is infallibly knowne to be of undoubted trueth. And how often hath Europe, the seat of Christendome, and Mistresse of the world, had the full experience in all her distressed corners, of the valiant, faithfull service, and unresistable valour of the people, of that never conquered Nation: the testimonies are evident, for my part I desist, and will not medle to peramble through peremptory inferences, on particular Kingdomes, although I acquitingly can; Howsoever a pertinacious Buffon dare, and falsely will doe it:

This Ile of Mytelena, is by the Turkes called Sarcam lying without the mouth of the gulfe of Smyrna, and opposite to the Westerne coast of Phrigia minor; where besides excellent Wine and Cornes, there are two sorts of dregs made there, which the Turkes use to put in their pottage: In Turkish the one is called Trachana, the other Bouhort, which the Romanes aunciently named Crimnon and Mazza. Whence Loosing from Mitylene in the aforesaid Carmosal, we touched at Dalamede, in the The Ile Androsia.Ile Androsia, the Northmost Ile of the Syclades toward Thessalia: It is indifferent copious of all things necessary for humane life, and round sixty miles: The Athenians of old (as Plutarch mentioneth) sent hither Themistocles to demaund tribute; Themistocles told them, he came to inflict some great imposition upon them, being accompanied with two Goddesses; the one was (Eloquence) to perswade them, and the other was (Violence) to enforce them. Whereunto the Androsians replyed, that on their side, they had two Goddesses as strong; the one whereof was (Necessity) whereby they had it not; and the other (Impossibility) whereby they could not part with that they never enjoyed.

This Ægean Sea, or mare Ægeum, had its denomination from Ægeus the father of Theseus, who misdoubting his sonnes returne from the Minotaure of Creet, here leaped [III. 110.]in, and drowned himselfe: The greatest part of these sixty nine Kings, that Agamemnon tooke with him to the siege of Troy, were onely Kings of these little Ilands: By some they are divided into two parts, Cyclades, and Sporades; the former containing fifty foure, and the latter twelve Iles; modernely they are all cognominat Archipylago, or the Arch Ilands.

Hoysing saile from Dalamede, we set over to Nigroponti, being sixty miles distant, and bearing up Eastward to double the South Cape, we straight discovered Two Turkish Galleots.two Turkish Galleots pursuing us: Whereupon with both sailes and oares, we sought in to the bottome of a long creeke, on the West side of the Cape, called Bajo di piscatori; whither also fled nine Fisher-boates for refuge: The Galleots fearing to follow us in, went to Ankor, at a rocky Isolet in the mouth of the bay, and then within night were resolved to assaile us. But night come, and every night of sixe (for there sixe dayes they expected us) we made such Bonfires, that so affrighted them (being two miles from any Village) they durst never adventure it: Yet I being a stranger was exposed by the untoward Greekes to stand Centinell every night, on the top of a high Promontore, it being the dead time of a snowy and frosty winter; which did invite my Muse to bewaile the tossing of my toylesome life, my solitary wandring, and the long distance of my native soyle:

Upon the seaventh day, there came downe to visit us, two Gentlemen of Venice, clothed after the Turkish manner; who under exile, were banished their Native Territories ten yeares for slaughter; each of them having two servants, and all of them carrying Shables, and two [III. 114.]Gunnes a peece: which when I understood, they were Italians, I addressed my selfe to them, with a heavy complaint against the Greekes, in detaining my Budgeto, and compelling me to endanger my life for their goods: whereupon they accusing the Patrone, and finding him guilty of this oppression, belaboured him soundly with handy blowes, and caused him to deliver my things, carrying me with them five miles to a Towne where they remained, called Rethenos, formerly Carastia, where I was exceeding kindly entertained ten dayes: And most nobly (as indeed they were noble) they bestowed on me forty Chickens of Gold at my departure, for the better advancement of my voyage, which was the first gift that ever I received in all my travells. For if the darts of death had not beene more advantagious to me, then Asiaticke gifts, I had never beene able to have undergone this tributary, tedious, and sumptuous peregrination: The confluence of the divine providence allotting me meanes, from the losse of my dearest consorts gave me in the deepnesse of sorrow, a thankefull rejoycing.

The Ile Nigroponti.Nigroponti was formerly called Euboea, next, Albantes: and is now surnamed the Queene of Archipelago: The Turkes cognominate this Ile Egribos: The Towne of Nigropont, from which the Ile taketh the name, was taken in by Mahomet the second; Anno. 1451. and in this Ile is found the Amianten stone, which is said to be drawne in threeds, as out of Flaxe, whereof they make napkins, and other like stuffes; and to make it white, they use to throw it in the fire, being salted: The stone also is found here, called by the Greekes Ophites, and by us Serpentine. The circuit of this Ile is three hundred fourty sixe miles. It is seperated from the firme land of Thessalia, from the [III. 115.]which it was once rent by an Earthquake, with a narrow channell, over the which in one place there is a bridge, that passeth betweene the Ile, and the maine continent, and under it runneth a marvellous swift current, or Euripus, which ebbeth and floweth sixe times night and day. Within halfe a mile of the bridge, I saw a Marble columne, standing on the toppe of a little Rocke, whence (as the Ilanders told me) Aristotles death.Aristotle leaped in, and drowned himselfe, after that he could not conceive the reason, why this Channell so ebbed & flowed: using these words, Quia ego non capio te, tu capias me. This Ile bringeth forth in abundance, all things requisite for humane life, and decored with many goodly Villages.

The chiefe Cities are Nigropont, and Calchos: The principall rivers Cyro, and Nelos, of whom it is sayd, if a sheepe drinke of the former, his wooll becommeth white, if of the latter coale blacke. From thence and after 22. dayes abode in this Ile, I arrived at a Towne in Macedonia, called Salonica, but of old Thessalonica, where I stayed five dayes, and was much made of by the Inhabitants, being Jewes.

Salonica.Salonica is situate by the sea side, betweene the two Rivers Chabris and Ehedora: It is a pleasant, large and magnificke City, full of all sorts of merchandize; and it is nothing inferiour in all things (except nobility) unto Naples in Italy: It was sometimes for a while under the Signiory of Venice, till Amurath the sonne of Mahomet, tooke it from this Reipublicke. And is the principall place of Thessaly which is a Province of Macedon, together with Achaia, and Myrmedon, which are the other two Provinces of the same.

This City of Salonica is now converted in an university for the Jewes; and they are absolute Signiors thereof [III. 116.]under the great Turke, with a large Territory of land, lying without and about them: It hath beene ever in their hands since Soliman tooke in Buda in Hungary, Anno. 1516. August. 20. to whome they lent two millions of money, and for warrandice whereof, they have this Towne and Province made fast to them: They speake vulgarly and Maternally here the Hebrew tongue, man, woman and child, and not else where in all the world. All their Sinagogian or Leviticall Priests are bred here, and from hence dispersed to their severall stations.

Thessaly.Thessaly a long the sea side, lieth betweene Peloponnesus, and Achaia: Wherein standeth the hill Olympus, on which Hercules did institute the Olympian games, which institution was of long time the Grecian Epoche, from whence they reckoned their time.

Macedon is now called by the Turkes Calethiros, signifying a mighty & warlike Nation: Macedonia, containing Thessaly, Achaia, and Mirmidon, lieth as a center to them; having Achaia to the East: Thessalia to the South: Mirmidonia, bordering with Ætolia to the West: And a part of Hoemus, whence it was called HÆmonia, and some of Misia superior to the North: It was also called Amathia, from Amathus once King thereof, and then Macedonia from the King Macedo: The chiefe Cities are Andorista, Andesso, Sydra, Sederaspen, where the mines of gold and silver be, which enrich the Turke so monethly, receiving thence somtimes 18000. 24000. & 30000. Ducats. And Pellia, where Alexander the great was borne. Bajazet the first, wonne this Countrey, from the Constantinopolitans. About this City of Salonica is the most fertile and populous Countrey in all Greece.

The vicissitude of Greece.Greece of all Kingdomes in Europe, hath bene most famous, and highly renowned for many noble respects: [III. 117.]yet most subject to the vicissitude of Fortune than any other: who changing Gold for Brasse, and loathing their owne Princes, suffered many tyrants to rule over them, scourging their folly with their fall, and curing a festered soare with a poysoned playster: whence succeded a dismall discord, which beginning when the State of Greece was at the highest, did not expire till it fell to the lowest ebbe; sticking fast in the hands of a grievous desolation: which former times, if a man would retrospectively measure, he might easily find, and not without admiration, how the mighty power of the divine Majestie doth swey the moments of things, and sorteth them in peremptory manner to strange and unlooked for effects: making reason blind, policy astonished, strength feeble, valour dastardly, turning love into hatred, feare into fury, boldnesse into trembling, and in the circuit of one minute, making the Conquerour, a conquered person.

Greece now tearmed by the Turkes Rum-Ili, the Romane Countrey, was first called Helles, next Grecia of Grecus, who was once King thereof: The Greekes, of all other Gentiles, were the first converted Christians, and are wonderfull devout in their professed Religion: The Priests weare the haire of their heads hanging over their shoulders: These that be the most sincere religious men; abstaine alwayes from eating of flesh or fish, contenting themselves with water, hearbes, and bread: They differ much in ceremonies, and principles of Religion from the Papists, and the computation of their Kalender is as ours.

Foure Patriarchs in the Greekish Church.They have foure Patriarkes, who governe the affaires of their Church, and also any civill dissentions, which happen amongst them, viz. one in Constantinople, another in Antiochia, the third in Alexandria, & the fourth in Jerusalem. It is not needfull for me to penetrate further [III. 118.]in the condition of their estate, because it is no part of my intent in this Treatise. In a word, they are wholly degenerate from their Auncestors in valour, vertue, and learning: Universities they have none, and civill behaviour is quite lost: formerly in derision they tearmed all other Nations Barbarians: A name now most fit for themselves, being the greatest dissembling lyers, inconstant, and uncivill people of all other Christians in the World.

False testimonie of vagabonding Greekes.By the way, I must give the Kings Kingdomes a caveat here, concerning vagabonding Greekes, and their counterfeit Testimonials: True it is, there is no such matter, as these lying Rascals report unto you, concerning their Fathers, their Wives, and Children taken Captives by the Turke: O damnable invention! How can the Turke prey upon his owne Subjects, under whom, they have as great Liberty, save onely the use of Bels, as we have under our Princes: The tyth of their Male children, being absolutely abrogated by Achmet, this Amuraths Father; and the halfe also of their Female Dowry at Marriages: And farre lesse for Religion, can they be banished, or deprived of their Benefices, as some false and dissembling fellowes, under the Title of Bishops make you beleeve; There being a free Liberty of Conscience, for all kinds of Religion, through all his Dominions, as well for us free borne Frankes as for them, and much more them, the Greekes, Armenians, Syriacks, Amoronits, Coptics, Georgians, or any other Orientall sort of Christians: And therefore looke to it, that you be no more gulled, golding them so fast as you have done, least for your paines, you prove greater Asses, than they do Knaves.

In Salonica I found a Germo, bound for Tenedos, in which I imbarked: As we sayled along the Thessalonian shoare, I saw the two topped hill Pernassus, [III. 119.]which is of a wondrous height, whose tops even kisse the Clouds.

Here it was sayd the nine Muses haunted: but as for the Fountaine Helicon, I leave that to be searched, and seene by the imagination of Poets; for if it had bene objected to my sight, like an insatiable drunkard, I should have drunke up the streames of Poesie, to have enlarged my dry poeticall Sun scoarch’d veine.

The Mountaine it selfe is somewhat steepe, and sterile, especially the two toppes, the one whereof is dry, and sandy, signifying that Poets are alwayes poore, and needy: The other top is barren, and rocky, resembling the ingratitude of wretched, and niggardly Patrons: the vale betweene the tops is pleasant, and profitable, denoting the fruitfull, and delightfull soyle, which painefull Poets, the Muses Plow-men, so industriously manure. A little more East-ward, as we fetcht up the coast of Achaia, the maister of the vessell shewed me a ruinous village, and castle, where he sayd the admired Thebes.Citty of Thebes had bene. Whose former glory, who can truely write of; for as the earth, when she is disroabed of her budding and fructifying trees, and of her amiable verdure, which is her onely grace and garment royall, is like a naked table wherein nothing is painted: even so is Thebes and her past tryumphs defac’d, and bereft of her lusty and young Gentlemen, as if the spring-tide had bene taken from the yeare: But what shall I say to know the cause of such like things, they are so secret and mysticall; being the most remote objects, to which our understanding may aspire, that we may easily be deceived, by disguised and [III. 120.]pretended reasons; whilst we seeke for the true and essentiall causes: for to report things that are done is easie, because the eye and the tongue may dispatch it, but to discover and unfold the causes of things, requireth braine, soule, and the best progresse of nature. And as there is no evill without excuse, nor no pretence without some colour of reason, nor wiles wanting to malicious and wrangling wits; Even so, was there occasion sought for, what from Athens, and what from Greece, whereby the peace and happinesse of Thebes might be dissolved, and discord raised to the last ruines of her desolation.

Geographicall errours.This Achaia is by some ignorant Geographers placed in the middle betweene Epire, Thessaly, and Peloponesus: where contrariwise it is the Eastmost Province of Greece except Thrace, lying along twixt it and Thessaly by the sea side, which part of the Countrey, some late Authors have falsly named Migdonia, which is a Province, that lieth North from Thracia, East from Macedon, and South from Misia, having no affinity with the Sea: The chiefe Citties in Achaia, are Neapolis, Appollonia, and Nicalide where the famous Philosophers Aristotle was borne: Here is a huge and high Hill Athos, containing in circuit 70. miles, and as some affirme three dayes journey long, whose shaddow was absurdly sayd to have extended to Lemnos, an Iland lying neere the Carpathian Sea.

Achaia was formerly called Aylaide, but now by the Turkes Levienda: Athos in Greeke is called Agios Æros, to wit, a holy Mountaine; the top of it is halfe a dayes journey broad, and 14. Italian miles high. There are twenty Monasteries upon it of Greekish Coleires, a laborious kind of silly Friers, and kind to Strangers: The chiefest of which Cloisters, are called Victopodos, and Agios laura, being all of them strongly walled and fensible.

[III. 121.]Upon the third day from Salonica, we arrived in the Roade of Tenedos, which is an Iland in the Sea Pontus, or Propontis: It hath a City called Tenedos, built by Tenes, which is a gallant place, having a Castle, and a faire Haven for all sorts of vessells: It produceth good store of wines, and the best supposed to be in all the South east parts of Europe, or yet in Asia. The Iland is not bigge, but exceeding fertile, lying three miles from the place where Troy stood, as Virgil reported, Æneid. 2.

And againe:

In Tenedos I met by accident, two French Merchants of Marseills, intending for Constantinople, who had lost their ship at Sio, when they were busie at venereall tilting, with their new elected Mistresses, and for a second remedy, were glad to come thither in a Turkish Carmoesalo. The like of this I have seene fall out with Seafaring men, Merchants, and Passengers, who buy sometimes their too much folly, with too deare a repentance. They and I resolving to view Troy, did hire a Jenisarie to be our conductor and protector, and a Greeke to be our Interpreter. [III. 122.]Where when we landed, we saw here and there many relicts of old walles, as we travelled through these famous bounds. And as we were advanced toward the East part of Troy, our Greeke brought us to many The Tombes of Trojanes.Tombes, which were mighty ruinous, and pointed us particularly to the Tombes of Hector, Ajax, Achilles, Troylus, and many other valiant Champions, with the Tombes also of Hecuba, Cresseid, and other Trojane Dames: Well I wot, I saw infinite old Sepulchers, but for their particular names, and nomination of them, I suspend, neither could I beleeve my Interpreter, sith it is more then three thousand and odde yeares agoe, that Troy was destroyed.

Priamus pallace.He shewed us also the ruines of King Priams Palace, and where Anchises the father of Æneas dwelt. At the North-east corner of Troy, which is in sight of the Castles of Hellesponte, there is a gate yet standing, and a peece of a reasonable high wall; upon which I found three peeces of rusted money, which afterward I gave two of them to the younger brethren of the Duke of Florence, then studying in Pretolino: The other being the fairest with a large Picture on the one side, I bestowed it at Aise in Provance upon a learned Scholler, Master Strachon, my Countrey man, then Mathematician to the Duke of Guise, who presently did propine his Lord and Prince with it.

[III. 123.]A description of Troy.Where the pride of Phrygia stood, it is a most delectable plaine, abounding now in Cornes, Fruites, and delicate Wines, and may be called the garden of Natolia: yet not populous, for there are but onely five scattered Villages, in all that bounds: The length of Troy hath been, as may be discerned, by the fundamentall walls yet extant, about twenty Italian miles, which I reckon to be ten Scottish or fifteene English miles; lying along the sea side betweene the three Papes of Ida, and the furthest end Eastward of the River Simois: whose breadth all the way hath not outstripd the fields above two miles: The Inhabitants of these five scatterd Bourges therein, are for the most part Greekes, the rest are Jewes, and Turkes.

The Authors portracture.And loe here is mine Effigie affixed with my Turkish habit, my walking staffe, & my Turban upon my head, even as I travelled in the bounds of Troy, and so through all Turkey: Before my face on the right hand standeth the Easterne and sole gate of that sometimes noble City, with a piece of a high wall, as yet undecayed: And without this Port runneth the River Simois (inclosing the old Grecian Campe) downe to the Marine, where it imbraceth the Sea Propontis: A little below, are bunches of grapes, denoting the vineyards of this fructiferous place; adjoyning neare to the fragments and ruynes of Priams Pallace, surnamed Ilium: And next to it a ravenous Eagle, for so this part of Phrigia is full of them: So beneath my feet ly the two Tombes of Priamus & Hecuba his Queene: And under them the incircling hills of Ida, at the West South west end of this once Regall Towne; & at my left hand, the delicious and pleasant fields of Olives and Figge-trees, wherewith the bowells of this famous soyle are interlarded: And here this piece or portracture decyphered; the continuing discourse, inlarging both meane & manner.

[III. 124.]Troy was first built by Dardanus sonne to Corinthus King of Corinth, who having slaine his brother Jasius, fled to this Countrey, and first erected it, intituling it Dardania: Next it was called Troy of Tros, from whom the Countrey was also named Troas: It was also termed [III. 125.]Ilion of Ilus, who built the Regall pallace surnamed Ilium: This City was taken and defaced by Hercules, and the Greecians, in the time of Laomedon, himselfe being killed the latter time: Lastly, Troy was reedified by Priamus, who giving leave to his sonne Paris to ravish Helena, Menalaus wife, enforced the Greekes to renew the auncient quarrell: Where after 10. yeares siege the Towne was utterly subverted, Anno Mundi 1783.

Rash Judgement.On the South-west side of Troy, standeth the Hill Ida, having three heads. On which Paris out of a sensuall delight, rejecting Juno, and Pallas, judged the golden ball to Venus, fatall in the end to the whole Countrey. The ruines of which are come to that Poeticall Proverbe:

Leaving the fields of noble Ilium, we crossed the River of Simois, & dined at a Village named Extetash: I remember, in discharging our covenant with the Janisary, who [III. 126.]was not contented with the former condition, the French men making obstacle to pay that which I had given, the wrathfull Janisary belaboured them both with a cudgell, till the bloud sprung from their heads, and compelled them to double his wages. This is one true note to a Traveller (whereof I had the full experience afterward) that if he cannot make his owne part good, he must alwayes at the first motion content these Rascals; otherwise he will be constrained, doubtlesse, with stroakes, to pay twice as much: for they make no account of conscience, nor ruled by the Law of compassion, neither regard they a Christian more than a dogge: but whatsoever extortion or injury they use against him, he must be French-like contented, bowing his head, and making a counterfeit shew of thankes, and happy too oftentimes, if so he escape.

Sestos and Abydos.Hence we arrived at the Castles, called of olde Sestos, and Abydos, in a small Frigot, which are two Fortresses opposite to other: Sestos in Europe where Thracia beginneth; and Abidos in Asia where Bithinia likewise commenceth, being a short mile distant, and both of them foure leagues from Troy. They stand at the beginning of Hellespont, and were also cognominate the Castles of Hiero and Leander, which were erected in a commemoration of their admirable fidelity in love.

But now they are commonly called the Castles of Gallipoly; yea, or rather the strength of Constantinople, betweene which no Shippes may enter, without knowledge of the Captaines, and are by them strictly and warily searched, least the Christians should carry in Men, Munition, or furniture of Armes, for they stand in feare of surprising the Towne: And at their returne they must stay three dayes, before they are permitted to go through, because of transporting away any Christian slaves, or if they have committed any offence in the Citty, the knowledge thereof may come in that time.

At that same instant of my abode at Abidos, there were fourescore Christian slaves, who having cut their Captaines throat, with the rest of the Turkes, Christian slaves fled from Constantinople.runne away from Constantinople with the Galley. And passing here the second day thereafter at midnight, were discovered by the watch of both Castles, where the Cannon never left thundring for two houres; yet they escaped with small hurt, and at last arrived in the Road of Zante; desiring landing, & succour, for their victuals were done: victuals they sent them, but the Governour would not suffer them to come on Land. In end, the Sea growing somewhat boysterous, the slaves for an excuse cut their Cables, and runne the Galley a shoare: Upon this they were entertained in service, but the Providitor caused to burne the Galley, fearing least the Turkes should thereby forge some quarrell. The yeare following, an other Galley attempted the same, but the poore slaves having past the Castles, [III. 128.]had bene so wounded and killed with the great shot, and the Galley ready to sinke, they were enforced to runne a shoare, where the next morning being apprehended, they were miserably put to death. Betwixt the Castles and Constantinople, is about fourty leagues. Over this straite Xerxes did make a bridge of boates to passe into Greece, which when a sudden tempest had shrewdly battered, he caused the sea to be beaten with 300. stripes.

The sorrow of Xerxes.And at that same time Xerxes passing over the Hellespont, and seeing all the sea cled with his Army, his Horses, Chariots, and Ships, the teares burst from his eyes: and being demanded the cause of his griefe? answered, O, sayd he, I weepe because within a hundreth yeares, all this great and glorious sight, shall be dissolved to nothing; and neither man, nor beast shall be alive, nor Chariot, nor Engine of Warre, but shall be turn’d to dust; and so I sorrow to see the short mortality of Nature. Indeed it was a worthy saying, from such a Heathnish Monarch, who saw no further, than the present misery of this life.

Here I left the two French men with a Greeke Barbour, and imbarked for Constantinople, in a Turkish Frigato. The first place of any note I saw, within these narrow Seas, was the auncient Citty of Gallipolis, the second seate of Thracia, which was first builded by Caius Caligula, and sometimes had beene inhabited by the Gaules: It was the first Towne in Europe, that the Turkes conquered; and was taken by Solyman sonne to Orchanes, Anno 1438.

North from Thracia lyeth the Province of Bulgaria commonly Volgaria, and was called so of certaine people, that came from a countrey, neere to the River Volgo in Russia, about the yeare 666. It lieth betweene Servia, Thracia, and Danubio, and by the Auncients, it was [III. 129.]thought to be the lower Mysia (but more justly the Region of Dacia.) The chiefe Towne is Sophia, which some hold to be that Towne, which Ptolomeus named Tibisca.

Here in Thracia lived the Tyrant Polymnestor, who treacherously murthered Polidorus a yonger sonne of Priamus: For which fact Hecuba, the young Princes mother scratched him to death. Here also reigned the worthy King Cotis, whom I propose as a paterne of rare temper, in maistering and preventing passion: To whom when a neighbour Prince had sent him an exquisite present, of accurately wrought glasses; he (having dispatched the messenger with all due complements and gratitude of Majestie) broke them all to peeces: Least by mishappe, any of his Servants doing the like, might stirre or move him to an intemperate choller.

Mount Athos.The Greekes here, and generally through all Greece, beare as much reverence and respect to Mount Athos, as the Papists beare to Rome: All of which Religious Coliers or Friers, must toyle and labour for their living, some in the Vines, some in the Corne-fields, and others at home in their Monasteries, or else where abroad, are alwayes occupied for the mainteining of their Families: They are but poorely cled, yet wonderfull kinde to all Viadants; so that who so have occasion to passe that Mountaine, are there lodged, and furnished of all necessary provision of food, by these sequestrat or solitary livers, whose simple and harmelesse lives, may be tearmed to be the very Emblemes of Piety and Devotion; knowing nothing but to serve God, and to live soberly in their carriage.

The chiefest Cities of Thrace, are Constantinople, Abdera, where Democritus was borne, who spent his life [III. 130.]in laughing, Sestos, Gallipoli, Trajanople, Galata, and Adrianopolis, which was taken by Bajazet, Anno. 1362.

As we sayled betweene Thracia and Bithinia, a learned Grecian brought up in Padua that was in my company, shewed me Colchis, whence Jason, with the assistance of the Argonautes, and the aide of Medeas skill, did fetch the golden fleece. The Sea Hellespont.This Sea Hellespont tooke the name of Helle daughter to Athamas King of Thebes, who was here drowned; and of the Countrey Pontus, joyning to the same Sea, wherein are these three Countries, Armenia minor, Colchis, and Cappadocia. After we had fetcht up the famous City of Calcedon in Bithinia on our right hand; I beheld on our left hand, the Prospect of that little World, the great City of Constantinople; which indeed yeeldeth such an outward splendor to the amazed beholder, of goodly Churches, stately Towers, gallant Steeples, and other such things, whereof now the World make so great accompt, that the whole earth cannot equall it. Beholding these delectable objects, we entred in the channell of Bosphorus, which divideth Perah from Constantinople. And arriving at Tapanau, where all the munition of the great Turke lyeth, I adressed my selfe to a Greeke lodging, to refresh my selfe till morning.

But (by your leave) I had a hard welcome in my landing, for bidding farewell to the Turkes, who had kindly used me three dayes, in our passage from the Castles, the Maister of the boate saying, adio Christiano: There were foure French Runnagats standing on the Kaye; A harsh arrivall.who hearing these words, fell desperatly upon me, blaspheming the name of Jesus, and throwing me to the ground, beate me most cruelly: And if it had not beene for my friendly Turkes, who leaped out of their boate and relieved me, I had doubtlesse there [III. 131.]perished. The other Infidells standing by, said to me, behold what a Saviour thou hast, when these that were Christians, now turned Mahometans, cannot abide, nor regard the name of thy God; having left them, with many a shrewd blow, they had left me, I entred a Greeke lodging, where I was kindly received; and much eased of my blowes, because they caused to oynt them with divers Oyles, and refreshed me also with their best entertainement, gratis, because I had suffered so much for Christs sake, and would receive no recompense againe. The day following, I went to salute, and doe my duety to the right Worshipfull Sir Thomas Glover, then Lord Ambassadour for our late Gratious Soveraigne King James, of blessed memory, who most generously & courteously entertained me three moneths in his house, to whose kindnesses I was infinitely obliged: as hereafter in my following discourse of the fourth part of this History, shall be more particularly avouched: for certainely I never met with a more compleat Gentleman in all my travells; nor one in whom true worth did more illustrat vertue.