William Lithgow

Now come my swift pac’d feete, to Syons seate,

And faire Jerusalem: heere to relate

Her sacred Monuments, and these sweet places,

Were fil’d with Prophets, and Apostles faces:

Christs Crub at Bethleem, and Maries Cave,

Calvar, and Golgotha, the Holy Grave:

Deepe Adraes valley, Hebrons Patriarch’d Tombe,

Sunke Lazars pit, whence hee rose from earths wombe:

Judeas bounds, and Desarts; that smoaking Lake

Which orient folkes do still for Sodome take.

Thence view’d I Jordan, and his mooddy streames,

Whence I a Rod, did bring to Royall James.

[VI. 238.]The lumpe falne Jerico, and th’ Olive Mount,

With Gethesamaine, where Christ to pray was wont:

The Arabian desarts, then Egypt land

I toyling saw, with Nylus swelling strand:

Where for discourse, the seaventh part shall thee show

What thou mayst learne, and what by sight I know,

Of matchlesse Egypt; and her unmatch’d bounds,

That twice a yeare, in growth of graine abounds.

Jerusalem, is now called by the Turkes, Kuddish, which is in their Language, a Holy Citie: It was first called Moriah, of Moria, one of the seaven heads of Syon, where Abraham would have sacrificed Isaac, Gen. 22. 2. and upon his offering Jerusalems antiquity.it was called Jerusalem, Gen. 14. 18. It was also named Salem, where Sem, or Melchisedech dwelt: and Jerusalem was also called Jebus, 2. Sam. 24. 16. And it is the place where Salomon was commanded to build the Temple, 2. Chron: 3. 1. which afterward was termed Hieron Salomonis, whence came by corruption, that word Hierosolyma. David, also in his Psalmes gave it divers names. And Jerusalem in the Arabick tongue is also called Beyt almo kadas: Beyt signifieth the house, almo kadas, viz. of Saints.

Jerusalem standeth in the same place where old Jerusalem stood, but not so populous, neither in each respect of breadth, or length so spacious: for on the South side of Jerusalem, a great part of Mount Syon is left without, which was aunciently the heart of the old City; and they have taken on the North side, now both Mount Calvary, and the holy grave within the walles, which were built by Sultan Selim: So that thereby the [VI. 239.]difference of the situation is not so great, though a part thereof be removed; but a man may boldly affirme, that the most part of this City is builded on that place, where the first Jerusalem was: as may truely appeare, and is made manifest by these mountaines, mentioned in the Scriptures, whereupon Jerusalem is both situate, and environed about, who reserve their names to this day, and are still seene, and knowne by the same; The foure hills of Jerusalem.as Mount Syon, Mount Calvary, Mount Moriah, and Mount Olivet. The forme of the situation of Jerusalem, is now like to a Hart, or Triangle, the one point whereof looketh East, extending downeward, almost to the valley of Jehosaphat, which divideth Jerusalem, and Mount Olivet: The second head or point, bendeth out South-west upon Sion, bordering neare to the valley of Gehinnon: The third corner lieth on Mount Moriah, toward the North, and by-West, having its prospect to the buriall place of the Kings of Israel.

The walles are high and strongly builded with Saxo quadrato, which adorne Jerusalem more then any thing within it, the Holy Grave excepted. It is of circuite about three miles, and a halfe of our measure. As touching the former glory of this City, I will not meddle withall, nor yet describe, sith the Scriptures so amply manifest the same; concerning the lamentable destruction of it; I refer that to the famous Historiographer Josephus, who largely discourseth of many hundred thousands famished, and put to the sword within this multipotent City, by The triumph of Titus.Vespasian, and Titus his sonne; being the messengers of Gods just judgements; which by his computation did amount beyond the number of eleven hundred thousands. But it is to be understood, they were not all at one time in Jerusalem; but came up by turnes and times, from the circumjacent Countries about by thousands, and as they [VI. 240.]were cut off so their numbers were aye renewed againe as necessity required.

The overthrow of Jerusalem.This City hath beene oft conquered by enemies: First, by Nabuchodanezzar, the Assirian King: Secondly, by the Greekes, and Alexander the Great, and also marvellously afflicted by Antiochus: Thirdly, it was taken in by Pompeius: Fourthly, destroyed of Vespasian and Titus: Fifthly, it was reedified by Adrian the Emperour, and wonne againe by Gosdroes, the Persian King: Sixtly, it was overcome by Homer Califf the successour of Mahomet: Seaventhly, by the great Souldan of Egypt, and by Godfrey du Bulloine, a Christiane Prince: Eightly, by Saladine the Caliph of Egypt, and Damascus: Anno 1187. who reserved successively the Signiory thereof for a long time: And lastly, it was surprised by Sultan Selim, or Solyman the Emperour of the Turkes, Anno 1517. joyning the holy Land together with Ægypt to his Empire, who fortified the same, being by Infidels detayned to this day: and by likelihood shall keepe it to the consummation of the world, unlesse God of his mercy deale otherwise, then the hopes of mans weake judgement can expect. Whence truely I may say, that when fortune would change friendship, she disleagueth conditionall amity, with the senselesse litargy of foule ingratitude. This City is now governed by a Sanzack or Subbassaw, being placed there by the Bassaw of Damascus, whose Deputie he is; the other being chiefe Ruler under the Grand Signior over all the holy Land and the halfe of Siria. The Garrison of Jerusalem.There is a strong Garrison kept alwayes in Jerusalem, to withstand the Arabish invasions, consisting of eight hundred Souldiers, Turkes, and Moores, who are vigilant in the night and circumspect in the day time, so that none can enter the Towne [VI. 241.]without their knowledge; nor yet goe forth without their triall. This is a memorable note, and worthy of observation, that at that time, when the Cities of Jerusalem and Antiochia were recoverd from the Pagans by the meanes of Godfrey of Boulloin; the Pope of Rome that then was, was called Urbanus; the Patriarke of Jerusalem Heraclius, and the Romane Emperour Fredericke: A notable observation.And at the same time, and long thereafter, when Jerusalem was reinthralled and seazed upon by Saladine; the Popes name was Urbanus; the Patriarke of Jerusalem Heraclius; and the Romane Emperour Fredericke: After Herod the Idumean, soone to Anti-pater, in whose time Christ was borne: Archelaus, Agrippa Herod, who imprisoned Peter and James, and was eaten of vermine, in whose time Christ suffered; and Agrippa minor (before whom Paul pleaded) the last King of the Jews had raigned, (being strange Kings) in the last Kings time Jerusalem was overthrowne, and the Kingdome made a Province of the Romane Empire, Anno 37. After which desolation, the Jewes were over all the world dispersed; but afterward in a zealous consideration, were banished from the most part of the Christian Kingdomes: Out of France they were rejected by Philip the faire, Anno 1307. out of Spaine by Ferdinand the Catholicke, 1492. out of Portugale by Emanuell, 1497. out of England by Edward the fifth, 1290. out of Naples and Sicilia by Charles the fifth, 1539. Yet they are found in great numbers in divers parts of Germany, Poland, and in some Cities of Italy, as Venice and her territories, Florence and the jurisdiction thereof, the principalities of Parma, Mantua, Modena, Urbino, and their extending limits; and finally Rome, (besides her Ecclesiasticall papacy) wherein there are no lesse than twenty thousand [VI. 242.]of them: They are also innumerable over all the Turkish dominions, who so misregard and hate them, for the crucifying of Christ, that they use to say in detestation of any thing, I would I might dye a Jew; neither will they permit a Jew to turne Turke, unlesse he first be baptized: And yet live, where they wil, the most part of them are the welthiest people in the world, having subtile, and sublime spirits. Now for the severall Kings and Rulers of Judah and Israel, beginning at Moyses, the Judges of the Jewes were 16. of whom Samuel was the last, at which time, the people desired to have a King like unto other Nations.

The Jewish Kings.The Kings of the Jewes were three; Saul, David, and Salomon; And the Kings of Judah were twenty, Zedechias being last, in whose time Nabuchodanezzar destroyed Jerusalem. Of the Kings of Israel there were seaventeene, of whom Oseas was the last, in whose time the Israelites were carried captives into Assyria, by King Salmanassor.

Dukes of Jewry.The Dukes or Governours of Jewry were fifteene, of which Joannes Hircanius, was the last Governour of Judea, which discended from the stocke of David. During the government of which Captaines, after the Babylonian captivity, the Jewish Kingdome was plagued on both sides, by the Kings of Egypt and Syria: who slaughtered their people, ransacked their Cities, made havocke of their goods, and compelled them to eate forbidden flesh, and sacrifice to Idols.

To reforme which enormities Matathias and his five sonnes valiantly resisted, and overcame the impetuous fury of Antiochus Epiphanes and his Syrians: Whereupon the Jewes chose Judas surnamed Machabeus for their Captaine, one of the worlds nine Worthies; who though not of the line of David, was yet of the tribe of Judah.

[VI. 243.]The Machabean Princes of Jury were onely foure: Joannes Hircanus the last, who was slaine by the Parthianes. The Machabean Princes.Of the Machabean Kings of Judah were other foure, of whom Hircanus sonne to Alexander the tyrant was the last, who being disturbed in his raigne by Aristobulus his yonger brother, with his sonnes Alexander and Antiochus, he was firmely established in his throne by Pompey; & the other carried captives to Rome. But afterward Alexander and Antiochus escaping, the one by pollicy, the other by favour of Julius CÆsar, villanously abused Hircanus: The former was slaine by Scipio, and the latter for his villany was slaine by Marcus Antonius, and the Kingdome given to a stranger, Herod borne in Ascolon of Idumea, as I formerly recited, of which strange Kings there were foure.

Christian Kings of Jerusalem.The Christian Kings of Palestine, beginning at Godfrey of Bulloine were nine. Guy of Lysingham being the last King of Jerusalem, and was surprised by Saladine of Egypt, 1187.

And lastly, or at this present time, the Emperours of the line and race of Ottoman, are Lords and Kings over Jerusalem, and the crost, or rather now curst land of Canaan: In whose hands it is faster kept, then the seventeene Belgian Provinces, remaine totally subject to the Spanish power.

But to the intent the Reader may the better conceive, and plainely understand the Monuments I saw within Jerusalem, and the circumjacent places of Judea; I thought best to prefixe the description thereof, by the severall dayes as I saw them, not much condemning, neither absolutely qualifying them, but shall (as it were) neutrally nominate, and recapitulate these places, as I was informed [VI. 244.]by the Padre Guardiano, Gaudentius, Saybantus, a Veronesen borne; whence he, and every one of them every third yeare are changed and recalled backe to Christendome, and other new Friers sent in their places: And especially the information of John Baptista, the Trenchman, who dwelt and had stayed twenty five yeares in Jerusalem, and from whom the Friers themselves have their informations: for a stranger that understandeth not promptly the Italian tongue, which they usually speake, when they demonstrate these places unto us, hee shall The ignorance of Travellers.conceive ignorantly, dispose his judgement blind-foldedly, and knowes not how to distinguish the circumstances, and qualities of the things delivered. As I have knowne some of these Francks, in my company, simply mistaken, even when the exposition of every object was largely manifested unto them; and precisely declared such a thing to have beene there, although perhaps the matter it selfe, be evanished and transported.

About two of the clock on Palme-sunday after dinner, for all of us eate, drunke, and lay in the Monastery, each of us paying a Piaster a day for our dyet, sixe shillings starling, besides all other costs and charges: The Guardian I say, departed from Jerusalem to Bethphage: accompanied with twelve Friers, and many other Orientall Christians, which were come thither to that Festivall time, but I by no meanes would go, neither would the six Germans, but reposing our selves on the top or platforme of the Cloyster, we stayed till their returne: And yet from this place, we saw their back-comming from Bethphage as they crossed the lower and South side of Olivet; devalling downeward, toward the valley of Jehosophat to ascend Mount Sion, for the greater performance of their foolery.

[VI. 245.]A superstitious Ceremony.The rediculous Ceremony which that day they use, is thus: In an Apish imitation of Christ, at the foresayd Bethphage, there was an Asse brought to the Guardiano, whereupon hee mounted (being as it were, the greater Asse, riding upon the lesser) and came riding to Jerusalem, the people cutting downe Boughs of trees, and also dispoyling themselves almost to the skin, bestrewed the way as hee Rode along, crying, Hosanna, Hosanna, the Sonne of David, blessed is hee that commeth in the name of the Lord: untill they came to the South gate of Syon, where the Guardian thought to have entred, Riding through Jerusalem to his monastery, with this shouting convoy of sixe thousand Orientall Christians, because their Patriarkes have not that liberty to do so, as this Italian Guardian: Notwithstanding, the clamour of the people incensed so the Turkish Garrison lying at this Gate, that they not onely abused the poore Christians in their ignorant devotion, but they pulled the Guardian also from the Asses backe, beating him most cruelly, and all the rest of the Friers and Francke Pilgrimes that were with him: Where at last entring the Convent, most of them came in groaning, and loaden with blacke and bloody blowes; whereat I, and the other Protestants, did laugh in our sleeves to behold their foolish Procession, so substantially rewarded. At night after Supper, the Guardiano knowing that I was a Protestant, and also these other Germanes, made an Oration, saying: You Pilgrims, who refuse to be participant with us in the Sacraments, nor wil not adhere to our Masses, processions and Ceremonies [VI. 246.]which we follow of the Roman Church: I would therfore intreat you (your liberty being here as much as mine, whereby you may do as you please) onely to abstaine from scandalling and mocking our Rites and ordinary Customes, which at this great feast we must performe: To which we condescended, and promised to give no occasion of offence, seeing our outward carriage in going along with them to see their customes, tended no way to hurt the inward disposition of our soules.

In the conclusion of his long Exhortation, hee disclosed this admonition, saying: All of you Travailers must in A flattering beggary.general be indued with these three worthy gifts, Faith, Patience, & Mony: Faith, to beleeve these things you shall see here at, and about Jerusalem: Patience, to indure the apparent injuries of Infidels; and Money, to discharge all tributes, and costs, which here (meaning in his owne Monastery) and about this City must be defrayed. His Sermon he concluded like a Grey Frier, as indeede hee was: for I am fully perswaded hee little cared for our Faith, and Patience, providing, that our purses could answere his expectation, as truly we found the condigne trial thereof afterward: making our Patience to startle, our Faith to over-top his lyes, and our monies to bee a slave to his greed; and wee left the last tributary spoyles of two extortionable flatterers, Avarice, and Ignorance; with the which our Reverend Guardian was fully invested.

Monday earely, we Pilgrimes went foorth to view the monuments within the Citty, being accompanied with the Padre Viccario, and a French Predicatore: the places of any note wee saw were these: first they shewed us the place where Christ appeared to Mary Magdalen, who sayd: Touch me not, for I am not yet ascended to my Father, John 20. 15. and this place by them is supposed to be the Center or middle part of the World. Next, where Saint James the first Bishop of the Primitive Church was beheaded: then the House of Saint Thomas, but that [VI. 247.]is doubtful (say they) because it is not yet confirmed by the Papall Authority: From thence they brought us to the place where Annas one of the High Priests dwelt, and also the Tree to the which our Saviour was bound, whiles Annas was making himselfe ready to leade him to Caiphas; but that I wil not beleeve, for that Tree groweth yet, being an Olive Tree. They shewed us also the house where Saint Peter was imprisoned, when his fetters were shaken off his legges, and the Prison doores cast open, and hee relieved: And where Zebedeus the Father of James and John dwelt, which are nothing but a lumpe of Ruines.

Caiphas Lodging.Thence wee came to the decayed lodging of Caiphas, without the Citty, uppon the mount Syon, whereupon there is a Chappell builded, and at the entry of that little Domo, we saw the stone, on which the Cocke crew, when Peter denied Christ. Within the same place is the stone that was rolled to the Sepulcher doore of our Saviour, being now made an Altar to the Abasines. These Abasines, are naturally borne blacke, and of them silly Religious men, who stay at Jerusalem, in two places, to wit, heere at Caiphas House, on mount Syon, and the other Convent on mount Moriah, where Abraham would have sacrificed Isaac: They weare on their heads flat round Caps of a blackish colour, and on their bodies long gownes of white Dimmety, or linnen cloath, representing Ephods: the condition of themselves being more devoute, than understanding the true grounds or their devotion, blind zeale and ignorance overswaying their best light of knowledge. They being a kinde of people, which came from Prester Jehans dominions.

And within that Chappel they shewed us a narrow pit, [VI. 248.]wherein (say they) Christ was incarcerat, the night before he was brought to the Judgement Hall. Upon the same side of Syon, we saw the place, where Christ did institute the Sacraments: and not far hence, a decayed House, where (say they) the Holy-Ghost discended upon the Apostles, and also the Sepultures of David, and his sonne Salomon: Over the which, there is a Moskie, wherein no Christian may enter, to see these monuments. For the Turkes doe great Reverence, to most of all the ancient Prophets of the old Testament.

From thence we returned, and entred in via dolorosa, the dolorous way, by which our Lord and Savior passed, when he went to be crucified, carrying the Crosse upon his Backe: And at the end of the same streete (say they) the Souldiers met Simon of Cyrene, and compelled him to helpe Christ, to beare his Crosse when hee fainted. Pilats judgement Hall.Pilats Judgment Hall, is altogether ruinated, having but onely betweene the two sides of the Lane, an olde Arch of stone, under the which I passed, standing ful in the high Way: Here they shewed us the place, where Christ first tooke up his Crosse, and on the top of that Arche, wee saw that place called Gabbatha, where Jesus stood, when Pilat sayd to the Jewes, Ecce homo.

A little below this, they brought us to the Church of Saint Anna, where (say they) the Virgin Mary was borne. And going downe another narrow Lane, they poynted in to a House, and sayd, heere Dives the rich Glutton dwelt, who would not give to Lazarus the Crummes of Bread that fel from his Table: this I suspend, amongst many other things, for all hold it to bee a Parable, and not a History: And although it were a History, who can demonstrate the particular place, Jerusalem having beene so often transformed by alterations.

[VI. 249.]This I must needes say, with such leying wonders, these flattering Friers, bring Strangers into a wonderful admiration, and although I rehearse all I saw there, yet I will not beleeve all, onely publishing them as things indifferent, some whereof are frivolous, and others somewhat more credible: But as I sayd before, I will make no (or very small) distinction in the Relation.

From thence we came without the Easterne gate, (standing on a low Banke, called the daughter of Syon, that over-toppeth the valley of Jehosophat,) unto an immoveable stone, upon the which they sayd St. Stephen was stoned to death, the first Martyr of the Christian faith; and the faithfull fore-runner of many noble followers. As we returned to our owne Convent, they brought us to mount Moriah, and shewed us the place where Abrahams faith.Abraham offered up Isaac, which is in the custody of Nigroes or Æthiopians: to whom each of us payed ten Madins of Brasse, the common coine of Jerusalem, for our in going to that place. And the other monastery that these Abasines detaine, is on mount Sinay in the Desarts, where the body of S. Katherine lyeth buried, which is richly maintained, and strongly kept by the Æthiopian Emperor: There are 200. Religious Abasines in it, and 100. souldiers to guard them from the incursions of Arabs, who continually molest them, because Mount Sinay.mount Sinay standeth in midst of that desolate Arabian wildernesse, and far from any civill or inhabited place; being distant from Jerusalem about 70. English miles. Next they shewed us the place where Jesus sayd, Daughters of Jerusalem, mourne not for me, &c. And neere unto this, where the virgin Mary fell into an agony, when Jesus passed by carrying his Crosse: Also, not farre hence, we beheld the place, where (as they say) Jesus said to his mother, woman, behold thy Sonne, and to S. John behold thy mother.

[VI. 250.]Ascending more upward, they shewed us the house of Veronica Sancta, and said, that our Saviour going by her doore, all in a sweat to Mount Calvary, she brought him a napkin to wipe his face; which he received, and gave it to her againe: in which (say they) the print of his face remaineth to this day, and is to be seene at Rome. It is also sayd to be in a Towne in Spaine, and another of them at Palermo in Sicilia: wherefore I beleeve the one, as well as the rest.

The Temple of Solomon thrice builded & destroyed.As concerning the Temple of the most high, built by Salomon (the description of which edifice yee may read in the 3. of Kings) it was destroyed by Nabuchodanezzar, at the taking of Jerusalem, Anno Mundi, 4450. Secondly, it was rebuilded againe by the commandement of Cyrus King of Persia, after the Jewes returned from the Captivity of Babylon; but not answerable to the state and magnificence of the former: For besides the poverty & smalnesse of it, there wanted five things which were in the other: First, the Arke of the Covenant: Secondly, the pot of Manna: thirdly, the rod of Aaron: Fourthly, the two tables of the Law, written by the finger of God: And fifthly, the fire of the Sacrifice, which came downe from Heaven, which were the Symboles and badges of Gods favour and mercy showne to them and their fore-fathers in his covenant of Love.

This Temple afterward growing in decay, Herod the [VI. 251.]great, (that killed the young Infants for Christs sake, who suffered for him, before he suffered for them) built another much inferiour to the first, and superiour to the second. And although some Authors would have him but to repaire the second Temple, yet it is most certaine, he did even from the foundation raise its greatest beauty and glory. For this Herod the Ascolonite, was an Edomit stranger, or Idumean, who having gotten the Kingdome contrary to the Law of Moses; and created King of Jewry by Octavius Augustus; and knowing these people to be offended therewithall, to procure their favour did Herod the Idumeans Temple.build to them a third Temple: This was it, in which our Saviour, and his Apostles did daily Preach; and was set on fire by Titus the tenth day of August, on which day likewise the first Temple, was burnt by Nabuchodanezzar. And lastly there is another great Temple builded in the Selim Solimans Temple.same place, by Sultan, Selim Soliman, reserved by Turkes, and highly regarded, for that respect they carry to Salomon; neare the which, or within whose courts no Christian may enter under the paine of loosing his head.

This present Temple hath two incircling Courts invironed with high wals, having two enteries: In the inner Court standeth the Temple, that is composed of five circling and large Rotundoes, rising high and incorporate from the ground with round tops: The outward fabrick whereof we cannot see, save on Mount Olivet, which is over against the Citie, and twice as high as Mount Sion.

These are all the monuments which in one day, I saw within Jerusalem; but as for Mount Calvary, and the Holy Grave, I saw them afterward, which in their owne place shall be orderly touched. As we were spending that [VI. 252.]day in these sights, the Guardian had prepared one hundred souldiers, sixty horse-men, and forty foot-men, to take with him the day following, for his conduction to Jordan, and the mountaine in the Wildernesse where Christ fasted; which is his usuall custome once every yeare betweene Palme-sunday and Easter, returning againe before Good-friday. These places cannot be viewed, save onely at that time; neither may a Pilgrime goe along with the souldiers, unlesse he give the value of seven Crownes or Piasters (as a propyne) unto the Lieutenant, being forty two shillings starling: and if the Traveller will not goe to that charge, he may stay there till their returne, which I would not wish him to doe, if possibly he may spare the money, for the sight of Sodome, and Jordans sake. That same night after supper, the Guardian demanded of us Travellers, if we would goe with him to see these memorable, & singular things, upon the former condition: To whom we answered, in a generall consent, we would, and so payed our moneyes.

A voyage to Jordan.Earely upon Tuesday morning all the Friers and Pilgrimes being mounted on Mules save onely pedestriall I, and two Mules loaden with our provision of victuals; we departed from the City, about our nine of the clocke in the forenoone, keeping our faces South-east, and leaving Bethphage and Bithania on our left hand, wee had pleasant travelling for seaven miles; but in the afternoone wee entred in a barren and desart Countrey till Sun-setting: where at last wee arrived at a standing Well, and there refreshing our selves and the beasts, wee reposed till two houres within night. After that the Captaine had cried Catethlanga, that is, march away: we set forward, being well guarded round about with our keepers, because we entred into a dangerous way, and a most desolate and fabulous soile.

[VI. 253.]In all this deformed Countrey, wee saw neyther house, nor Village, for it is altogether desartuous, and inhabited onely by wilde Beasts, and naked Arabians. Before wee came neere to Sodom and Gomorrah, by seaven miles: (for so wee behooved to passe by the East end of it, before wee could arrive at that place of Jordan which wee intended) we I say incountred with such deep sandy ground, that the Mulets were not able to carry our Company through: Whereupon they all dismounted, wrestling, and wading above the middle part of their bodies, and sometimes falling in over their heads, they were in great danger of perishing, although the robustnesse of my body carried mee through on my feete, relieving also divers times some of these Friers and Pilgrimes, that were almost choaked and over-whelmed with Sand, but not for lacke of Wine. Even in the middest of this turmoyling paine, (the night being darke) the unwelcomed Arabs, environed, A fearefull danger.and invaded us with a storme of Arrowes, which they sent from the tops of little hard hils, whereupon they stood, for knowing the advantage of the ground: they tooke opportunity to give the more feareful assaults: yet they prevailed nothing (although they wounded some of our Souldiers) such was the resolute Courage of our valourous Defendants. True it is, that in all my travailes I was never so sore fatigated, nor more fearefully indangered, as I was that night.

A little after midnight, these Savages leaving us, and wee leaving our troublesome way, we accoasted the Lake of Sodome, and marched along the marine shoare above nine miles before we came to Jordan. This Lake is called Lacus Asphaltites, it yeeldeth a kinde of slime, named Bitumen Asphaltum; the which bituminous savour no [VI. 254.]living thing can indure. And now Mare mortuum, a sea because it is salt, and mortuum or dead, for that no living thing breedes therein: and more properly for this cause called the dead Sea, because of it selfe it is unmoveable, such is the Leprosie and stability of the water. It is also called so, because if a Bird flye over it, shee presently falleth downe therein dead: And as Salomon reporteth of it, Wisdom. 10. 7. it smoaketh continually: from whence proceedeth filthy Vapours, which deforme the fields, lying about for certaine miles, as it were blasted, scorched, and made utterly barren: this smoake I take onely to be but the exhalation of Jordan: For this River falling into it, and there ending his course, the two contrary natures cannot agree; the one being a filthy puddle, and the other a pure water, as I shall more approbably Record.

The length of Sodoms Lake.This Lake is foure score miles in length, and according to its intervalling Circuite, sometimes two, three, foure, or five miles in breadth: yet the body thereof, bending directly South-west; keepeth a glassie course, till it salute the austiere conspicuosity of the sabulous and stony Desarts: beeing compassed with the Rockes of Arabia Petrea on the South: On the North, with the sandy hils of the Wildernesse of Judea: on the West, with the steepy mountaines of Arabia deserta: and on the East, with the plaine of Jericho. How commeth it to passe therefore, that the fresh running flood of Jordan, falling evermore into this bounded Sea, that the Lake it selfe, never diminisheth, nor increaseth, but alwayes standeth at one fulnesse: neyther hath it any issuing forth, nor reboundeth backewards on the plaine of Jericho, which is one of the greatest wonders in the World. Wherefore, as I have [VI. 255.]sayd, it must needes eyther exhale to the Clouds, or otherwise runne downe to Hell: for if it ranne under the Rockes, and so burst in the Desarts, it would soone bee knowne; but in all the bounds of Arabia Deserta, which betwixt this Lake and the Red Sea, extend to 300. miles; there is no such matter, as Brooke, or strand, much lesse a River, neyther hath it any intercourse with the Ocean, unlesse it runne through some secret passage of the earth under the Wildernesse, unto the Red sea. And that is doubtfull, although it may appeare probable; in regard of Nilus, that runneth a hundred miles under the ground in the exterior Æthiopia: and divers other Rivers also after the same manner, obscuring themselves under Rockes, mountaynes, and planures, for many miles: which particulars, by my owne experience, I could denote.

The doubtfulnes of Jordans ending.But as for this River, the question may arise, whether ran it during the time of these five Citties of the plaine, now overwhelmed with Water; or where was the issue thereof. To this I answere, was not the hand of the Almighty, that rained downe from the Heavens fire and Brimstone to consume them, able also, to drowne their situations and intervalling plaines with water: Yes and doubtlesse yes, and the course of the River keeping still its former condition: And for moderne examples, how many Citties, Mansions, and Stations, have beene sommerssed with water: nay innumerable, and so remayning to this day, place, beauty, and being, all defaced: As now in Scotland neere to Falkirk, rests the last and latest memory of such woefull accidents, and superabounding disgorgings.

It breedeth nor reserveth no kinde of fishes; and if by the swelling of Jordan, any fishes be carried to it, they immediatly dye. Although Josephus witnesseth, that in [VI. 256.]his time, there was an Apple grew uppon the Bankes thereof, like to the colour or gold, and within was rotten, and would consume to powder; yet I affirme now the contrary: For there is not such a thing (whatsoever hath beene in his dayes) as eyther Trees, or Bushes, grow neere to Sodome by three miles: such is the consumation of that pestiferous Gulfe.

Wrong informations made false.Divers Authors have reported, that nothing will sinke into it, of any reasonable weight, as dead men, or Carkasses of Beasts: but by experience I approve the contrary: For it beareth nothing at all; yea, not the weight of a Feather, nor the pile of withered Grasse, but it will sinke therein, with the which my hands made sundry trials; and dare approove it to be of trueth, in spight of the leying world, and all doting varieties of auncient Relations.

The water it selfe, is of a blackish colour, and at sometimes in the yeare, there are terrible shapes, and showes of terrour in it, as I was informed at Jericho, by the Arabian inhabitants there, which is the neerest Towne that bordereth thereupon.

This contagious and pestilentious Lake of Sodome, resembleth much (as may be supposed) that infernall gulfe of Hell: but in my opinion, I hold it to be the Purgatory of Papists: for they say Limbus Patrum, is neere, or in the second roome to Hell, which I thinke must needs be Sodome: for although it be not Hell it selfe, yet I am perswaded, it is a second Hell, having (as some report) no bottome. Wherefore I conclude thus, that since Papists will have a Purgatory, I absolutely affirme, it must be such a Purgatory, as the purging of Sodome and Gomorra, which was with fire and Brimstone, to their destruction.

[VI. 257.]About the breach of day on Wednesday morning, we past by the ruines of an old house; where (as they say) S. John the Baptist remained, when he baptized those that came from Jerusalem, and other Regions about, which is but the flight of an arrow from Jordan.

Approaching to the banke-side, we dismounted, and The River Jordan.uncloathed our selves, going in naked to the River, we washed us to refresh our bodies; our Souldiers lying a little off from us, as pledges of our lives, and their owne safegards, stayed as Bulwarks for our protection, & a connivall obligation for two repugnant defences: Time presenting the awfull opportunity of both occasions. In this place, as the Guardian said, was Christ baptized of S. John, when the Holy Ghost came downe in a bodily shape, like a Dove upon him, and there was a voyce from Heaven, saying: Thou art my beloved Sonne, in Thee I am well pleased. I saw also an apparant like testimony, of a quadrangled stone, lying on the banke side; whereupon are ingraven letters, of Hebrew, Greeke, Latine, testifying the same thing: and may be also conjectured, in regard of the auncient Habitacle, of that precursor, which is not far from thence.

This river Jordan beginneth in Mount Libanus, of two fountaines, Jore, and Dan, which runne separated, till they come to the lake Maronah; & hence it maketh one body, keeping his course through the lake Genasereth, endeth in Sodome. The river Tibris at Rome, & Jordan are not much different in quantity and colour; and not unlike other in their courses: For Jordan falleth in the old Gomorah, and Tibris runneth through the new Sodome; A history of such evidence, as travell taught me by experience: For it is the Priests confluence, which breeds in the Italians insolence: If I erre, I will beg indulgence, of the Popes aureat magnificence.

[VI. 258.]The rivers themselves are both of a muddy colour, and their quantity not far different from other, which Jordan for greatnesse retaineth, and the length of their courses are much semblable to other. The water of Jordan hath beene transported to Venice in barrels, for that purity it hath; which will reserve unspoiled, both moneths and yeares, and the longer it is kept, it is the more fresher; and to drinke it, is an excellent remedy for the fever quartan or quotidian, being neare in vertue to the Wine of Libanon.

Considering the auncient reputation of this famous river, and the rare sight of such an unfrequented place, A Turpentine rod brought from Jordan and given to King James.I climbed up to the top of a Turpentine tree, which grew within the limited flood, a little above where I left my company even naked, as I came from swimming, and cut downe a faire hunting rod of the heavy and sad Turpentine tree, being three yards long, wondrous straight, full of small knots, and of a yellowish colour; which afterward, with great paines, I brought to England, and did present it (as the rarest gemme of a Pilgrimes treasure) to his Majesty. But I remember in the choosing thereof an unexpected accident fell out: For I being sequestrat from the sight of the company, upon this solitary tree, with broad obscuring leaves, the Friers and Souldiers removed; keeping their course towards Jericho: but within two furlongs from Jordan, they were beset with the former Nocturnall enemies, who assailed them with a hard conflict: For I hearing the Harquebuse go off, was straight in admiration, and looking downe to the place where I left my associates, they were gone; so bending my eyes a little further in the Plaine, I saw them at a martiall combate: which sight gave me suddenly, the threatning of despaire: not knowing whether to stay intrenched, [VI. 259.]within the circundating leaves, to approve the events of my auspicuous fortunes: Or in prosecuting a reliefe, to be participant of their doubtfull deliverance. In the end pondering, I could hardly, or never escape their hands, either there, or by the way going up to Jerusalem, leapt downe from the tree, leaving my Turkish cloathes lying upon the ground, tooke onely in my hand the rod & Shasse which I wore on my head; and ranne starke naked above a quarter of a mile amongst thistles, and sharpe pointed grasse, which pittifully be pricked the soles of my feete, but the feare of death for the present, expel’d the griefe of that unlooked for paine. Approaching on the safe side of my company, one of our Souldiers broke forth on horsebacke, being determined to kill mee for my staying behinde: Yea, and three times stroke at me with his halfe-pike; but his horse being at his speed, I prevented his cruelty, first by falling downe, next by running in amongst the thickest of the Pilgrimes, recovering the Guardians face, which when the Guardian espied, and saw my naked body, hee presently pulled off his gray gowne, and threw it to me, whereby I might hide the secrets of nature: By which meanes, (in the space of an The Pilgrimes three severall habits in halfe a houre.houre) I was cloathed three manner of wayes: First, like a Turke: Secondly, like a wild Arabian: And thirdly, like a grey Frier, which was a barbarous, a savage, and a religious habit.

The Captaine at last entering in parley with the Arabs, by some contributing promises did mitigate their fury, for their compounded acknowledgement was to be sent them from Jerusalem: Whereupon, wee marching toward Jericho, reposed our selves under a cooling shade, and dined there on the Wine and provision carryed with us.

[VI. 260.]After Dinner wee arose, and went to the House of Zacheus: (this was hee who sate uppon a Tree to see our Saviour as he passed by,) the Wals whereof stand to this day, the tecture being onely demolished. This new Jericho is now a poore Village onely of nine dwelling houses, inhabited by a kinde of Arabs (which are in subjection under the Governour of Jerusalem,) but I saw many ruinous lumpes of the Wals, and demolishings of the old Towne, which is a little from this distant, about a short quarter of a mile. Two sorts of rare fruit.Here I saw two most dainty kinde of fruites, the one was a little lesser then an Apple, but more round: whose colour was like gold without, and within it was White as Snow, and sweete like Suger. I would gladly have eaten of them; but the Friers forbade me, saying; they were the onely pest of Death unto a stranger. The other Apple was like to a greene Lemmon, long, and full of knots, of a reddish colour, like to a Mellone; being both delicate and wholesome, of which wee did eate to satisfie the naturall appetite, and so did all our Souldiers eate of them excessively: their Trees growing high and greene by a Brooke side of delicate Water that runneth from the fountaine of Elizeus. From Jericho we set forward, in the way of the Wildernesse; our determination being such, as to view the mountaine whereon Christ fasted forty dayes: Where arrived, being late, we durst not go up til morning. Elizeus Fountaine.Wherefore we pitched that night by the fountayne of Elizeus; the Water of which, was of old, naturally bitter, but by the prayers of that divine Prophet, was restored to a sweet tast: It is good in digestion, and harmelesse for health: and it is the lightest water the earth yeelds: having on the morrow filled a Boares skin of it, to carry with me to the mountaine; I found it so light, that I [VI. 261.]had no weight nor paine in the bearing of it on my shoulders: notwithstanding, the way of it selfe was fastidious. This mountain is called Quarantanam, or Quaranto, being of height, by the computation of my painefull experience, above sixe miles, and groweth from the bottome still smaller and smaller, till that the top is covered with a little Chappell, not unlike to the proportion of a Pyramede.

There is no way to ascend upon this Hill, save one, which hath beene hewen out of the Rocke, by the industry of men, experimented in Masonry; (which was done at the cost of Queene Helen) going up by the Degrees of forty five turnes. In all our Company there were onely one Frier, foure Germanes, and I, that durst attempt to climbe the mountaine.

Thursday earely at the breach of day, we sixe made us for the mountaine, leaving our Souldiers to guard the passage below, least some stragling Arabs should have stolne after us for our Destruction. Where after diverse turnings, traversings, and narrow foot passages having come with great difficulty to the top, we entred first into a umbragious Cave, joyning to, and under the Chappell, Where Christ fasted forty dayes.where the Frier told us, that in this place Christ did fast forty dayes: and here it was, where he rebuked Sathan. The Chappel which covereth the top of this high and steepy Rocke is covered, and also beautified, with an old Altar: betweene the outward sides whereof, and the craggy face of this mountaine, two men may only go side to side: Here we dined and refresht our selves with water that I carried on my backe hither: From which place we saw the most part of all the Holy Land, except the North parts of Judea, Palestine, and Phenicia, and a great way in the two Arabiaes, Petrea, and Deserta, and all the length of Jordan, even from Sodome to Maronah.

[VI. 262.]At last in our Returne and fearefull discending, there would none of us goe downe formost: For although the Frier led us freely upwards, yet first downeward for his life hee durst not goe: and that because at the narrow end of every turning, there was aye betweene the upper and the lower passage, about my height, and some where twice my height, of the flat face of the Rocke, whereon there was nothing but dimples and holes to receive our feete, which in discending was perillous. Dreadfull danger in descending the Quarantatam.Now the greatest danger, at every turne, was in the downe going of the formost, who was to receive, them all, one by one, and foote their feet in the shallow dimples: of which if any of them had missed, his sliding downe had miscarried them both over the Rocke.

Now for the noble Germanes sake, two of whom were great Barens, Signior Strowse, and Signior Crushen, and borne Vassals to the Marquesse of Hanspauch, I resolved to imbrace the danger: Where downe I went, receiving every one of them, at every turne, first leading their feete by my hands, and then by inveloping them with mine armes: Well, having past halfe way downewards, wee came to the most scurrile and timorous Discent of the whole passage, where with much difficulty, I set safe the foure Germanes in our narrow Rode hewen out of the craggy Hill; and then was to receive the Frier: Whence hee comming downe from above, with his Belly and face to the Rocke, holding his hands grumbling above, the fellow fell on trembling; and as I was placing his feete in the holes, distempred feare brought him downe upon me with a rushling hurle: Whereuppon straight I mainly closed with my left arme his body fast to the Rocke, keeping strongly my Right shoulder to the same [VI. 263.]place: For I could not have saved my selfe, and letting him fall, but hee would have caught mee headlong with him, over the Rocke: And yet the Germanes cryed still to me, Lascia ti quel furfanto cascar alla fondo con il Diavolo, e salva caro fratello la vita vostra, viz. Let that Villaine fall to the ground with the Divell, and save, O deare brother, your owne life: But I neyther would nor durst: at last his feare, by my incouragement having left him, I suffered him to slide softly downe betweene my arme and the Rocke, to the solid path: Where by and by, hee fell downe uppon his knees, and gave mee a thousand Blessings, vowing for this, he would doe me a great good deede before I left Jerusalem.

At last towards the afternoone, wee safely arrived at the foote of the Mountayne, and having saluted the Guardian, and all the Rest, who then were ready to take journey, the Frier told his Reverence how I had saved his life: Whereupon the Guardian, and the other Friers, did imbrace me kindly in their Armes, giving me many earnest and loving thankes.

And now the Souldiers and wee being advanced in our Way, as wee returned to Jerusalem, wee marched by an S. Jeromes Abbey.olde Ruinous Abbey, where (say they) Saint Jerome dwelt, and was fed there by wilde Lyons: Having travailed sore and hard that afternoone, wee arrived at Jerusalem an houre within night, for the Gate was kept open a purpose for us and our Guard: and entring our Monastery, wee supped, and rested our selves till midnight; having marched that halfe Day, more as 34. miles. A little before midnight, the Guardian and the Friers, were making themselves ready to goe with us to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, called Sancto Salvatore; where wee were to stay Good-friday and Satturday, and Easter-Sunday [VI. 264.]till mid-night: They tooke their Cooke with them also to dresse our Dyet, carrying Wine, Bread, Fishes, and Fruites hither in abundance. Meane while, a Jew, the Trench-man of the Turkies Sanzacke, came to the Monastery, and received from every one of us Pilgrimes, first two Chickens of Gold, for our severall heads, and entrey at Jerusalem: and then nine Chickens a peece for our in going to the Holy Grave; and a Chicken of golde a man, to himselfe the Jew, as beeing due to his place.

Our tributs for the Holy Grave.Thus was there twelve Chickens from each of us dispatched for the Turke: And last one, and all of us, behoved to give to the Guardian two Chickens also for the Waxe Candles and fooleries hee was to spend, in their idle and superstitious Ceremonies, these three aforesayd nights, which amounted in all to every one of us, to foureteene Chickens of gold, sixe pounds sixe shillings starling. So that in the whole from the sixe Germanes, foure French men, and nine Commercing Franks in Cyprus and Syria, Venetians, and Ragusans, and from my selfe, the summe arose for this nights labour to a hundred and twenty sixe pounds starling.

This done, and at full mid-night wee came to the Church where wee found twelve Venerable like Turkes, ready to receive us, sitting in the Porch without the Doore; who foorthwith opened at randone the two great Brazen halfes of the Doore, and received us very respectively: We being within the doore made fast, and the Turkes returned to the Castle, the first place of any note we saw, was the place of Unction, which is a foure squared stone; inclosed about with an yron Reuele, on which (say they) the dead body of our Saviour lay, and was imbalmed; after hee was taken from the Crosse, whiles [VI. 265.]Joseph of Arimathea, was preparing that new Sepulcher for him wherein never man lay: from thence we came to the holy Grave. Leaving Mount Calvary on our right hand toward the East end of the Church; for they are both contained within this glorious edifice.

The Holy Grave.The Holy Grave is covered with a little Chappell, standing within a round Quiere, in the west ende of the Church: It hath two low and narrow entries: As we entred the first doore, three after three, and our shoes cast off, for these two roomes are wondrous little, the Guardiano fell downe, ingenochiato, and kissed a stone, whereupon (he sayd) the Angell stood, when Mary Magdalen came to the Sepulchre, to know if Christ was risen, on the third day as he promised: And within the entry of the second doore, we saw the place where Christ our Messias was buried, and prostrating our selves in great humility, every man according to his Religion, offered up his prayers to God.

The Sepulchre it selfe, is eight foote and a halfe in length, and advanced about three foote in height from the ground, and three foote five inches broad, being covered with a faire Marble stone of white colour.

In this Chappell, and about it, I meane without the utter sides of it, and the inward incirclings of the compassing Quiere, there are alwayes burning above fifty Lampes of oyle, maintained by Christian Princes, who stand most of them within incircling bandes of pure Gold, which is exceeding sumptuous, having the names of those, who sent or gave them, ingraven upon the upper edges of the round circles: each of them having three degrees, and each degree depending upon another, with supporters of pure Gold, rich and glorious. The fairest whereof was sent thither by King John of England, whereon I saw his [VI. 266.]Name, his Title, and crowne curiously indented, I demanded of the Guardiano if any part of the Tombe was here yet extant, who replied, there was; but because (said he) Christians resorting thither, being devoutly moved with affection to the place, carried away a good part thereof, which caused S. Helen inclose it under this stone; whereby some relicts of it should alwaies remaine. I make no doubt but that same place is Golgotha, where the holy Grave was, as may appeare by the distance, betweene Mount Calvary and this sacred Monument; which extendeth to forty of my pases: The glorious Chappell of the Holy Grave.This Chappell is outwardly decored, with 15. couple of Marble Pillars, and of 22. foote high; and above the upper coverture of the same Chappell, there is a little sixe-angled Turret made of Cedar wood, covered with Lead, and beautified with sixe small Columnes of the same tree. The Chappell it selfe standeth in a demicircle or halfe Moone, having the little doore or entry looking East: to the great body of the Church, and to Mount Calvary, being opposite to many other venerable monuments of memorable majesties.

The forme of the Quiere wherein it standeth, is like unto that auncient Rotundo in Rome, but a great deale higher and larger, having two gorgeous Galleries; one above another, and adorned with magnificent Columnes being open at the top, with a large round; which yeeldeth to the heavens the prospect of that most sacred place.

In which second Gallery we strangers reposed all these three nights we remained there: whence we had the full prospect of all the spacious Church, and all the Orientall people were there at this great feast of Easter day, being about 6000. persons: from this curious carved Chappell [VI. 267.]we returned through the Church to Mount Calvary; To which we ascended by twenty one steps, eighteene of them were of Marble, and three of Cedar-wood: where, The beauty of Mount Calvary.when we came I saw a most glorious & magnifick roome, whose covert was supported all about with rich columnes of the Porphyre stone, and the oversilings loaden with Mosaick worke, & overgilded with gold, the floore being curiously indented with intermingled Alabaster and black shining Parangone: On my left hand I saw a platformd rocke, all covered with thicke and ingraven boords of silver; and in it a hole of a cubits deepe, in which (say they) the Crosse stood whereon our Saviour was crucified: And on every side thereof a hole for the good & bad theeves, were then put to death with him. Discending from Mount Calvarie, we came to the Tombe of Godfrey du Bulloine, who was the first proclaimed Christian King of Jerusalem, and refused to be crowned there, saying; It was not decent, the Servants head should be crowned with gold, where the Maisters head had beene crowned with thornes; having this Inscription ingraven on the one side:

Two famous Sepulchers.Hic jacet inclytus Godfridus de Bullion, quitotam hanc terram acquisivit cultui divino, cujus anima requiescat in pace.

And over against it, is the Tombe of King Baldwine his brother, which hath these Verses in golden Letters curiously indented.

Rex Baldevinus, Judas alter Machabeus

Spes patriÆ, Vigor EcclesiÆ, Virtus, utriusque;

Quem formidabant, cui dona, tributa ferebant.

CÆsar, Ægypti Dan, ac homicida Damascus;

Proh dolor! in modico clauditur hoc Tumulo.

The other things within the Church they shewed us, were these, a Marble Pillar, whereunto (say they) our [VI. 268.]Saviour was bound, when he was whipped, and scourged for our sakes: the place in a low Celler, about fourteene stone degrees under the ground, where the Crosse was hid Where Christ was nailed to the Crosse.by the Jewes, and found againe by S. Helen: the place where Christ was crowned with thornes, which is reserved by the Abasines, and where the Souldiers cast lots for his Garment; the place where he was imprisoned, whiles they were making of his Crosse, and where the Crosse, being laid along upon the ground, our Saviour was nailed fast to it; the Rocke, which (as they say) rent at his crucifying, which is more likely to be done with hammers, and set one peece a foote from another, for the slit lookes, as if it had beene cleft with wedges and beetles. And yet the sacred Scriptures say that it was not a Rocke, but the Temple that did rent in two from the bottome to the top, wherein these silly soule-sunke Friers are meerely blinded, understanding no more than leying traditions; perfiting this their nationall Proverb;

And lastly, they take upon them below Calvary to shew us where the head of Adam was buried. These and many other things, are so doubtfull, that I doe not register them for trueth (I meane in demonstrating the particular places) but onely relates them as I was informed.

There are seven sorts of Nations, different in Religion, and language, who continually (induring life) remaine within this Church, having incloystered lodgings joyning to the walls thereof: their victuals are brought dayly to them by their familiars, receiving the same at a great hole [VI. 269.]in the Church-doore; for the Turkes seldome open the entry unlesse it be when Pilgrimes come, save one houres space onely every Saturday in the afternoone, and at some extraordinary Festivall daies: and yet it doth not stand open then, but onely opened to let strangers in and shut againe: Seven religious Families.For this purpose each family have a Bell fastened at their lodging, with a string reaching from thence to the Church doore, the end whereof hangeth outwardly, By the which commodity, each furnisher ringing the Bell, giveth warning to his friends, to come receive their necessars, for through the body of the Church they must come to the porch-doore, and returne from it, to the cloyster.

The number of those, who are tied to this austere life, are about three hundred and fifty persons, being Italians, Greekes, Armenians, Æthiopians, Jacobines, a sort of circumcised Christians, Nestorians, and Chelfaines of Mesopotamia.

The day before the Resurrection, about the houre of mid-night, the whole Sects and sorts of Christians Orientall (that were come thither in Pilgrimage, and dwelt at Jerusalem) convened together, which were about the number of sixe thousand men, women, and children: for being separated by the Patriarkes in two companies, they compassed the Chappell of the Holy Grave nine times; holding in their hands burning Candles, made in the beginning pittifull, and lamentable regreetings, but in the ending, there were touking of kettle-drummes, sounding of horne-trumpets, and other instruments, dauncing, leaping, and running about the Sepulcher, with an intollerable tumult, as if they had beene all mad, or distracted of their wits.

Thus is the prograce of their procession performed in meere simplicitie, wanting civilitie, and government. [VI. 270.]But the Turkes have a care of that; for in the middest of all this hurley burley, they runne amongst them with long Rods, correcting their misbehaviour with cruell stroakes: and so these slavish people, even at the height of their Ceremonious devotion are strangely abused.

But our Procession begun before theirs, and with a greater regard, because of our tributes: The Turkes meane while guarding us, not suffering the other Christians to be participant in the singular dottage of the An abhominable Idolatry.Romish folly, being after this manner: First the Guardian, and his Friers brought forth of a Sacrastia, allotted for the same purpose, the wodden Portracture of a dead Corpes, representing our Saviour, having the resemblance of five bloody Wounds, the whole body of which Image, was covered with a Cambricke vale: Where having therewith thrice compassed the Chappell of the Holy Grave, it was carried to mount Calvary, and there they imbalmed the five Timber holes; with Salt, Oyle, Balme, and Odoriferous perfumes.

Then the Guardian, and the other twelve Friers kneeled downe, and kissed each one of the five Suppositive Wounds: the Turkes meanewhile laughing them to scorne in their faces, with miserable derision. Thence they returned, and layd the senselesse blocke uppon the Holy Grave, whence being dismissed, the Papall Ceremony ended.

Truely hereupon, may I say, if the Romane Jesuites, Dominicans and Franciscans, there Resident in certayne speciall parts of the Turkes Dominions, had onely behaved themselves as their polliticke charge required, and dismissed from the Paganisme eyes, onely their idolatrous images, veneration of Pictures, Crosses, and the like externall superstitious Rites: These Infidels I say, had [VI. 271.]long agoe (without any insight of Religion) bene converted to the Christian Faith. For besides all this blindnesse, what infinite abhominable Idolatries commit they in Italy and Spaine; in clothing the Pictures of dead Abbots, Monkes, Priors, Guardians, and the better kind of officiall Friers and Priests, with robes of Sattin, Velvet, Damnable and intolerable superstition.Damas, Taffaty, long gownes and coules of cloth, shirts, stockings, and shoes: And what a number of livelesse portrayed Prioresses, motherlesse Nunnes, yet infinite mothers, be erected (like the Maskerata of Morice-dancers) in silver, gold, gilded brasse, yron, stone, tynne, lead, copper, clay, and timber shapes, adorned with double and triple ornaments: over-wrought with silke, silver, and gold-laces, rich bracelets, silke grograine, and cambricke vales, chaines, smockes, ruffes, cuffes, gloves, collers, stockings, garters, pumpes, nose-gayes, beeds, and costly head-geire; setting them on their Altars, O spectaculous Images! adoring them for gods, in kneeling, praying, & saying Masses before them: Yet they are none of their avowed, allowed, and canonized pontificall Saints: for although they be bastards & wooden blocks, yet are they better clad, then their lupish legitimate ones, no, I may say, as the best Kings daughter alive. Which is a sinfull, odious, and damnable idolatry; and I freely confesse at some times, and in some parts I have torne a peeces those rich garments from their senselesse images and blockes, thinking it a greater sinne not to do it than to stand staring on such prodigall prophannesse, with any superstitious respect, or with indifferent forbearance to winke at the wickednesse of Idolaters.

[VI. 272.]Here the Guardiano offered for ten peeces of gold (although my due be thirty Chickens sayd he) to make me Knight of the holy Grave, or of the order of Jerusalem, which I refused, knowing the condition of that detestable oath I behooved to have sworne; but I saw two of these other Pilgrimes receive that Order of Knighthood.

The Knights of the Holy Grave.The manner whereof is thus: First they bind themselves with a solemne vow, to pray (during life) for the Pope, King of Spaine, and the Duke of Venice, from whom the Friers receive their maintenance; and also in speciall, for the French King, by whose meanes they obtaine their liberty of the great Turke, to frequent these monumentall places. Secondly, they are sworne enemies to Protestants, and others, who will not acknowledge the superiority of the Romane Church. Thirdly, they must pay yearely some stipend unto the Order of the Franciscans. These attestations ended, the Frier putteth a gilded spurre on his right heele, causing the yong made Knight stoope downe on his knees, and lay his hands on the holy Grave: after this he taketh a broad sword from under his gray gowne (being privately carried for feare of the Turkes) which is (as he sayd) the Sword, wherewith victorious Godfrey conquered Jerusalem, and giveth this new upstart Cavaliero, nine blowes upon the right shoulder. Loe here the fashion of this Papisticall Knighthood, which I forsooke.

Indeed upon the Knight-hood they have certaine priviledges among the Papists, of which these are two: If a malefactor being condemned and brought to the Gallows, any of these Knights may straight cut the rope and releeve him: The other is, they may carry and buy silkes through all Spaine and Italy, or elsewhere, and pay no Custome, neither in comming nor going, nor for any silke ware, where the Romish Church hath any commandement.

[VI. 273.]After our Guardiano had ended his superstitious Rites and Ceremonies, upon Easter day, before midnight, we returned to the Monastery, having stayed three dayes within that Church: And the next day thereafter, the nine Ragusan and Venetian Factors left us, returning backe to their severall Stations.

About sixe of the clocke, on monday morning, the Padre Viccario, and the aforesayd John Baptista accompanying us, we travailed abroad in the hilly Countrey of Judea. In this dayes journey, the places of any note we saw were these: Certaine relicts of Monuments.First, where the Daughters of Jerusalem came foorth to meete Saul, crying, Saul hath slaine his thousand, and David his ten thousand: And for memory of this standeth a certayne olde pillar of Marble. Next, the valley of Trebin, where David slew the great Goliath. And for remembrance of that, there are a great heape of stones layd together in the bottome of the valley, like to the Relickes of an old monument. Thirdly, Bezura, where Absalom killed his brother Ammon for Thamars sake, whereof nothing but the name is onely reserved.

Emaus.Fourthly, the Castle of Emaus, now altogether ruinated, except only three fire houses of Moores; in which our Saviour was knowne after his Resurrection, by the two Disciples in breaking of bread; where now the remanents of that house being vaulted, is turned over for a shelterage to sheepe; and a soft paved lodging for quivering Goates.

Fifthly, the Valley of Gibeon, where the ray-beaming Sunne stood still, at the voice of Joshua, from his naturall course. Joshua 10. 12.

Sixtly, the Toombe or buriall place of Samuel, that [VI. 274.]divine Prophet of the Lord: over the which the Moores have a Moskque erected, wherein we could not enter, but hard by and without it, we found one of the finest Fountaines in all Judea, and yet not a dwelling house neere unto it by three miles, in regard of the sassinous and infertile ground about it, the water whereof was exceeding light, sweete, and pleasant in digestion. Seventhly, the Tombes of the valiant Captaine Judas Macchabeus, and his Children, whereupon are now onely the ruines of an old Chappell, which is converted in a The buriall place of the Kings and Queenes of Israel.hould for Sheepe and Goates: And last of all, the buriall place of the noble Family of the Kings and Queenes of Israel, or Jerusalem, being neere unto the Citty, and within a short halfe mile. The entry whereto was so straite, that on our backes we behoved to slide downe, above ten paces under the ground, with light candles in our hands.

In that spacious place we saw twenty foure Chambers hewen out of a Marble Rocke. Each roome hath a hanging stone doore of a great thicknesse, so artificially done by the skilfull Art of Masons, that the rarest spirit of tenne thousand cannot know how these doores have bene made, so to move as they do, being a firme Rocke both below and above; and the doores have neither iron nor timber-worke about them: but by cunning are made so to turne, and in that same place where they grew they are squared; yea, and so exquisitely done, that the most curious Carpenter cannot joyne a peece of boord so neatly, as these stone doores joyne with the Rocke. In each of these roomes are two Sepulchers, wherein I saw the bones of some of these dead Princes.

Thursday, the tenth day of my being at Jerusalem, not reckoning the two dayes we spent in going to Jordan, the weeke before: We I say, ishued forth of the Citty [VI. 275.]earely, with our aforesayd guides, riding Westward: The first remarkeable thing we saw, was the place (as they say) where the Crosse grew, whereon Christ suffered: being reserved by Greekes, who have a Convent builded over it: That Crosse is sayd to have bene of foure sundry kinds of wood, and not of one Tree, for they shewed us but one hole where it grew, and so they hold it to have bene of one peece of Olive Tree, but this I suspend, leaving it to be searched, by the pregnancy of riper judgements then mine, howsoever opinious.

The leying vilany of a Rogish Greeke.And here I cannot forget a dissembling knavish Greeke, who came here to London some eight yeares ago, to beg support for the reparation of this decayed Monastery of the holy Crosse. Well, Gundamore the Spanish Ambassadour intertained him; and recommended his cause to our politicque power: A contribution is granted, over all England for the same purpose, and also recoiled, besides the severall acknowledgements of our Noble Courtiers: Oportunity come, I rancountred with this counterfeit Rascall in White hall: Whereupon diverse Gentlemen his Majesties servants, desired me to try him, if he had bene at Jerusalem, or dwelt at the Cloister of the holy Crosse: presently I demanded him, where the Convent stood, he replied within Jerusalem, and upon Mount Moriah: which was false, for the Convent is remote from the Citty, about three English miles: I posed him further about the situation of Jerusalem, &c. The quantity of this Cloyster, of its Church, of the number of Friers, who lived in it, with many more questions, whose circumstances would be tedious: To any one of which, he could not reply, but stood shivering for feare and shame; neither had he never bene in Asia nor these parts: whereupon stealing out of the Court, he was no more seene abroad: [VI. 276.]for he had got at Court, and in the Kingdome, above twelve hundreth pounds starling, besides the advancement of the Papists, and Recusants: and here was a tricke, that then the Spanish faction put upon us and themselves also being deceaved by a deceiver, deceived us with a double deceit, policy, and lyes.

About five miles further, we arrived at a Village, on the Mountaine of Judea, where we saw a disinhabited house, in which Elizabeth the mother of Saint John Baptist dwelt, when Mary came up from Galilee to salute her; and neare to this, we beheld (as they say) the Sanctuary, wherein Zacharias was stricken dumbe till Elizabeth was delivered: Two miles further, on a Rocky Mountaine, Saint John the Baptists Cave.we arrived at a Cave, wherein (say they) S. John did his pennance till he was nineteene yeare of age, after which time, he went downe and dwelt at Jordan: It is a pretty fine place hewen out of a Rocke, to the which we mounted by twelve steppes, having a window cut through a great thicknesse of firme stone, whence we had the faire prospect of a fruitfull valley: and from the mouth of this delectable Grotto, gusheth forth a most delicious Fountaine.

Returning thence, we passed over an exceeding high Mountaine, from whence we saw the most part of Judea; and to the Westward, in the way of Egypt, the Castle of the Prophet Elisha, and Idumea the Edomits land, lying also betweene Egypt and Jerusalem: This cloudy height, is called the mountaine of Judea, because it over-toppeth all the rest of the mountaines, that circumviron Jerusalem, Palestine, Galilee, Phenicia, or Samaria. Descending on the South side of the same Hill, we arrived at Phillips Fountaine, in which he baptized the Eunuch of Æthiopia, standing full in the way of Gaza. Here [VI. 277.]we paid some certaine Madins unto the Moores of the Village, for accoasting the place, and drinking of the water: So did we also for the sight of every speciall Monument in Judea.

At night, we lodged in Bethleem, in a Monasterie of the same Fransciscans of Jerusalem, being onely sixe Friers: After Supper we went all of us (having Candles) to the place, where our Saviour was borne; over the which, there is a magnificent Church builded: yea, the most large and royall workmanship that for a Church is in all Asia, or Affricke, being decored with a hundred and fifty Pillars. But before we came where the Crub had beene, we passed certaine difficile wayes; where, being arrived, wee entered in a gorgeous roome, adorned with Marble, Saphyre, and Alabaster stones; and there they shewed us Christs Crub at Bethleem.both the place and the resemblance of the Crub: over which were hanging lampes of pure Gold, and within their circles oyle continually burning. Not farre from that place, and within the body of the admirable Church, they shewed us the part, over the which the Starre stayed, that conducted the three Wise-men from the East, who came out of Chaldea, to worship Christ, and presented gifts unto him. From thence they brought us to a Cave without the Towne, wherein (say they) the Virgin Mary was hid, when Herod persecuted the Babes life, (from which also being warned by the Angell) She and Joseph fled downe into Ægypt with the Child.

In this time of her feare, say they, the milke left her blessed breasts, so that the Babe was almost starved, but Shee praying to the Almighty, there came forthwith abundance, which overflowing her breasts, and falling to [VI. 278.]the ground, left ever since, as they alledge, this consequent vertue to this Cave.

Admirable dust.The earth of the Cave is white as Snow, and hath this miraculous operation, that a little of it drunke in any Liquor, to a Woman, that after her Child-birth is barren of Milke, shall forthwith give abundance: which is not onely availeable to Christians, but likewise to Turkish, Moorish, and Arabianish Women, who will come from farre Countries, to fetch of this Earth. I have seene the nature of this dust practised, wherefore I may boldly affirme it, to have the force of a strange vertue: Of the which earth I brought with me a pound weight, and presented the halfe of it to our sometimes Gracious Queene Anne of blessed memory, with divers other rare relicts also, as a Girdle, and a paire of Garters of the Holy Grave, all richly wrought in silke and gold, having this inscription at every end of them in golden letters, Sancto Sepulchro, and the word Jerusalem, &c.

Wednesday following, wee hired foure and twenty Moores to conduct us unto Salomons Fish-ponds.Salomons Fish-ponds, which are onely three, being never a whit decayed; and to Fons Segnatus, whence commeth the water in a stone-Conduit, along the Mountaines, that serveth Jerusalem, which worke was done by Salomon. The Ponds being hewne out, and made square from the devalling face of a precipitating mountaine; through which the streame of Fons Signatus runneth, filling the Ponds till it come to its owne aquadotte.

Returning thence, and keeping our way Southward, we passed through the valley of Hebron, where Jacob dwelt, and entered into the fields of Sychem, where Jacobs Sonnes kept their fathers Sheepe; and not far hence, they [VI. 279.]shewed us a dry Pit, which they called Josephs Pit, that was at Dothan; wherein he was put by his Brethren, before they sold him to the Ismaelites.

In our backe comming to Bethleem, we saw a Cave in the Desart of Ziph, wherein David hid himselfe, when he was persecuted by King Saul; and the field Adra, where the Angels brought the glad tidings of salvation unto the Sheepheards. Unto all which parts our Moorish guard and John Baptista, brought us and conducted us backe againe to Bethleem, where we stayed the second night.

The Towne of Bethleem.Bethleem is the pleasantest Village in all Judea, situated on a pretty Hill, and five English miles from Jerusalem: It produceth commodiously, an infinite number of Olive and Figge-trees, some Cornes, and a kinde of white Wine, wherewith we were furnished all the time of our abode there; also in, and about Jerusalem. In our way, as we came backe to the City, the next day following, the Viccario shewed us a little Moskee, kept by Turkes, in which (sayd hee) was the Tombe of Rachel, Jacobs wife, who died in that place; as shee was travelling from Padan Aram, with her husband Jacob.

The ruines also of a house, where Habacuk the Prophet dwelt; a Turpentine tree growing yet by the way side, under the which (say they) the Virgin Mary was wont to repose her selfe in travelling. We saw also a naturall rocke in the high way; whereon (say they) Elias oft slept, and is not ashamed to say, that the hollow dimples of the stone, was onely made by the impression of his body; as though the tender flesh of man could leave the print of his portraiture on a hard stone. And not farre from this, they shewed us the place, where the Starre appeared to the wise men, after they had left Herod to seeke for the Saviour of mankind.

Approaching Mount Sion, we saw a quadrangled dry [VI. 280.]pond; wherein (say they) Beersheba the Wife of Urias, was Washing, when David looked forth from the toppe of his Pallace, gazing on the aspect of his lust, gave the Bridle of reason, fast tyed in the hands of temptation; and becomming subject to the subtilty of sinne, was bewitched by her beauty; wherewith corruption triumphed in Nature, and godlinesse decreased in voluntary consent; and from a royall Prophet fell in the bloody lists of Murther and Adultery.

Over against this place, on the North side of Gehinnon, King Davids pallace.we saw the ruines of a Palace wherein David dwelt, which hath beene one of the Angles of the ancient Citty; and standeth at the division of the valley Ennon, which compassed (as a Ditch) the North part of mount Syon, even to the valley Jehosophat, and so Eastward, being now filled up with fragments of old walles; and the valley of Gehinnon lying West, and East; bordering along the South side of Sion, till it joyne also with the narrow valley of Jehosophat, which invironeth the East, and devalling parts of Jerusalem. Neere to this demolished Tower, we saw the habitation of Simeon, who having seene the blessed Messias, sayd: Now Lord let thy Servant depart in peace, for mine eyes have seene thy Salvation.

And now lastly uppon the twelfth day of my abode there, early on Thursday morning, the Guardiano, twelve Friers, and John Baptista (because that was the last day of seeing any more Monuments, or was to be seene there) accompanied us: as wee issued at the South-gate of the City, we came to a place, on the skirt of Syon, where (say they) Peter after his deniall of Christ his maister, wept bitterly.

[VI. 281.]Descending by the side of that same Hill, we crossed the valley Gehinnon, Acaldema.and came to Acaldema, the Potters field, or field of blood; which is a little foure-squared Roome, oppositive to the devalling side of the South-falling Syon: three parts whereof are invironed with a natural rocke, and the fourth square bordering with the valley, is made up of stone worke: The top is covered, and hath three holes, where through they let the dead Christians fall downe; for it is a buriall place of Pilgrimes to this day. As I looked downe, I beheld a great number of dead corpes; some whereof had white winding sheets, and newly dead, lying one above another in a lumpe; yeelded a pestilent smell, by reason they were not covered with earth, save onely the architecture of a high vault, which maketh that in a long time the corpes cannot putrifie and rot.

Neare unto this Campo, we entred into a darke Cave, where (say they) the Apostles hid themselves, when Christ was taken. At the foote of the same valley, we came to Ponto Nehemia.Ponto Nehemia, in which place the Jewes did hide the Holy Fire, when they were taken captives to Babylon; walking more downeward, toward the valley of Jehosophat, we saw a darke Celler under the ground without windowes; wherein (said the Guardian) the Idolatrous Jewes made a sacrifice of their children unto a brazen Image called Moloch, which being made hot, they inclosed them in the hollownesse thereof, and so slew them: and least their crying should have moved any compassion towards them, they made a thundring noise with drums, and other instruments, whereupon the place was called Tophet, mentioned in Jer. 7. 31. Hence we came to the Poole of Siloam, in which wee washed our selves, the water whereof falleth downe through a Rocke, from [VI. 282.]the City above, running straight to the valley of Jehosophat; and there we saw also the remnant of that sacked Towre of Siloam. Neare to this we saw a fountaine, where (say they) the Virgin Mary used oft to wash the Babes clothes and linnen clouts. From thence we crossed the Brook Cedron.Brooke Cedron (which guttereth through the valley of Jehosophat) and is alwaies dry, unlesse it be in December, when the raine falleth there impetuously for a month together, which is all the winter they have in these parts: during which time none may labour, nor travell, but forced to keepe themselves within houses: Having past I say this Brooke wee came to the Tombes of Absolon and Zacharias, and the Cave wherein S. James was wont to hide himselfe from the persecuting Jewes. Ascending more upward on the hill, in the way of Bithania, wee saw these places, where Judas hanged himselfe, over which there is a vault erected, like a halfe Moone, in memory of his selfe murther, and hard by they shewed us where the withered Figge tree grew, the place being inclosed within a high stone dyke; and halfe a mile thence we came to the ruined house of Simon the Lepar.

Lazarus Tomb in Bethania.Arriving at Bithania, we saw the Castle and Tombe of Lazarus, on whom Christ shewed a miracle, in raising him from the grave, after hee had beene 4. dayes dead. It is a singular and rare Alabaster Tombe, and so exquisitely done, that it excelleth (Jerusalem excepted) all the monuments in Judea, erected for the like purpose, being inclosed within a delicate Chappell under the ground. Not farre thence in the same Village, wee saw the decayed house where Martha, and Mary Magdalen inhabited, and the stone whereon Christ sate (say they) when he sayd to Martha, Mary hath chosen the best part.

[VI. 283.]Leaving this moorish Bithania, being now a Village of no qualitie, we returned by beggerly Bethphage, and finding it farre worser, about mid-day wee arrived on the top of Mount Olivet, where wee dined on our owne provision carried with us, and then proceeded in our sights.

From this place wee had the full prospect of Jerusalem: For the City standing upon the edge of a hill, can not be seene all at one sight; save on this Mountaine, which is two times higher then Mount Sion. These are the Monuments shewne us upon the Mount Olivet and the Places of note thereof.Mount of Olives: First, the print of the left foote of our Saviour, in an immoveable stone, which he made when he ascended to Heaven; the Guardiano told us further, that the right footes print was taken away by the Turkes; and detained by them in the Temple of Salomon: But who can thinke our Saviour trode so hard at his ascention, as to have left the impression of his feete behind him.

Next the place where hee foretold the judgement to come, and the signes, and the wonders, that should be seene in the Heavens before that dreadfull day. Thirdly, the place where the Symbolum Apostolorum was made, which is a fine chamber under the ground, like a Church, having twelve pillars to support it. Fourthly, where Christ taught his Disciples the Pater noster, and where he fell in an agony, when hee sweat blood and water. Fifthly, where Peter, James, and John slept, whiles our Saviour prayed, and returned so oft to awake them; and also below that, where the other Disciples were left. Sixtly, the Garden of Gethsemane, where Christ used commonly to pray; in the which place he was apprehended by the officers of the high Priests, and it was also where Judas kissed him, and the Sergeants fell backward on the [VI. 284.]ground. Seventhly, they shewed us a stone marked with the Head, Feete, and Elbowes of Jesus, in their throwing of him downe, when as they bound him, after hee was taken, and ever since (say they) have these prints remained there.

And lastly, at the foote of mount Olivet, in the valley of Jehosophat, we descended by a paire of staires of forty three steppes, and sixe paces large, in a faire Church builded under the ground: Where (say they) the Monument of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary is, and did show it unto us, whom (they thinke) was borne in Jerusalem, dwelt at Bethleem, and Nazareth, and dyed uppon mount Syon. Sacred and singular Tombes.I saw also there, the Sepulchers of Joseph her husband, Joachim her Father, and of Anna her mother. And for which sights paying sixteene Madins a man, to certaine Moores: we returned to our Monastery againe night to repose us, having seene all the Antiquities and places of note, were to be seene, in, and about all Judea.

Loe, I have plainely described all these Monuments, by the order of these twelve severall dayes: The like heretofore, was never by a Travailer so punctually, so truly, and so curiously set downe, and made manifest to the intellective Reader. But as I sayd in the beginning of my Description, so say I now also at the Conclusion, some of these things are Rediculous, some of manifest untruths, some also doubtfull, and others, somewhat more credible, and of apparent truth. The recapitulation whereof, is only by me used, as I was informed, by Gaudentius Saybantus the father Guardian, Laurenzo Antonio il Viccario, and the Trenchman John Baptista.

Now in Jerusalem, wee eleaven Frankes stayed three [VI. 285.]dayes longer, preparing our selves for a new Voyage to go downe to Egypt with a Caravan of Grand Cayro: In which time the aforesaid Frier Laurenzo, whose life I had saved on the Quarantanam, propined me privatly with twelve Crosses made of the Olive Wood of mount Olivet: Each Crosse having 24. Relickes indented in them, with fourty paire of Chaplets made of that same Wood, two Turkish Handkerchiefes, and three paire of Garters and Girdles of the Holy Grave: All wrought in silke and Gold, with diverse other things, &c. Which were not so thankfully received, as they were thankfully given, by a gratefull and unforgetfull Frier. Meanewhile, the last day of our staying there, we went all of us Friers and Pilgrimes in againe to the Holy Grave, where we remained al night. Earely on the morrow there came a fellow to us, one Elias Areacheros, a Christian inhabitour at Bethleem, and purveier for the Friers; who did ingrave on The Armes of Jerusalem.our severall Armes upon Christs Sepulcher the name of Jesus, and the Holy Crosse; beeing our owne option, and desire: and heere is the Modell thereof. But I, decyphered, and subjoyned below mine, the four incorporate King James his foure Crownes.Crowns of King James, with this Inscription, in the lower circle of the Crowne, Vivat Jacobus Rex: [VI. 286.]returning to the fellow two Piasters for his reward: I fixt these lines for King James.

Which when the Guardian understood, what I had done in memory of my Prince upon that Sacred Tombe, hee was greatly offended with me, that I should have polluted that Holy place, with the name of such an Arch-enemy to the Romane Church. But not knowing how to mend himselfe, and hearing me to recite of the Heroick Vertues of our matchlesse Monarch: who for Bounty, Wisedome, and Learning, was not paragonized among all the Princes of the earth: His fury fell; and begun to intreate me, to make it knowne to his Majesty, that hee never allowed any support to their afflicted lives, neyther any gratuity for maintayning of those Sacred Monuments at Jerusalem, his subjects being as free here as they. Which indeed I performed, for after my arrivall in England, and having propined his Majesty with diverse rare things, and a Turpentine rod from Jordan; in the midst of my Discourses, I told his Highnesse, in the Privy Garden of Greenewich, the Guardians request. Who indeed gave me a most gracious answere, saying, They never sought any helpe of him, and if they had, he would have supported their necessity. Bidding farewell to the Church of St. Salvatore, and being re incloystred againe, after breakfast, the reckoning of Stridor Dentium came to us, Of English money.for 17. dayes diet, being to each man six shillings a day, amounting for my part to 5 pounds two shillings. Then the Guardians Secretary, presented me my Patent under [VI. 287.]their Great Seale; & that cost me 3. Chickens of Gold. The beginning whereof I recall, although the principall, The Discourse of the Seale is in the page following.be lost in the Inquisition of Malaga, was thus: Frater Gaudentius Saybantus ordinis minorum regularis observantiÆ Sancti Antonii Dei & ApostolicÆ sedis gratia, Sacri montis Sion Guardianus, TerrÆ sanctÆ gubernator & custos; ac in partibus orientis Apostolicus Commissarius, [VI. 288.]salutem in Domino sempiternam. Notum vobis facimus, &c. The Contents whereof, reciting all the memorable things I saw within the Holy Land, there was thereunto annexed their Great Seale, sticking fast, or locked in upon the lower face of the Parchment, the impression whereof, had the Effigies of the twelve Apostles, and Christ in the midst: having this Circumscription about: Magnum sigillum Sacri montis Sion Guardianus. The model whereof is affixed in the former page.

Then had we avaricious Baptista our Guide and Interpreter to reward, every one of us propining him with two Chickens of gold: And lastly wee gratified the gaping Steward, the Cerberian Porter, the Cymerian Cooke, and his Ætnean face, with a Chicken of gold the man, from each of us: amounting in all among the foure Catzocullioni, to twenty foure pounds fifteene shillings sterling.

Nay this was not all; for even when the Ægyptian Caravan, was staying for us without the City, the Guardian Greedy and flattering Friers.made a begging Sermon to us, imploring our bounties to commiserate and support their great calamities, losses, and oppressions inflicted upon them by the Infidels, with many other base & flattering speeches: which indeed nine of us refused, because of the great Extortion he had imposed uppon us before; but the two Germane Barons gave him the value of sixe English pounds, or there abouts.

And now finally, or I leave mount Syon, I thinke it not amisse, to give the itching Travailer a frozen stomacke, who perhaps soweth Words in the Wind, conceptions in the Ayre, and catcheth Salmond swimming on Atlas: I will now (I say) justly cast up to him the charges I defrayed [VI. 289.]within the Wals of Jerusalem, not reckoning my journall expences and tributs else where abroad; arising to eighteene pounds sixteene shillings starling: And there a cooling card for his Caprizziat, and imaginary inventions: And it may serve also, to damnifie the blind conceit of many who thinke that Travellers are at no charges, goe where they will, but are freely maintained every where; and that is as false, as an hereticall errour. May the twelfth, and the eighteene day of my staying there, about mid-day, the other ten and I joyned with the Caravan, who formerly had conditioned with us to carry us to Ægypt, and to furnish the rest Camels or Dromidories to ride upon, (for I would never ride any) for nineteene Piasters the man, discharging us also all tributes and Caffars were to be imposed upon us by the way; and so we marched through the South-west part of Judea towards Idumea, or the Edomits land; and meane-while I gave The Authors good night to Jerusalem.Jerusalem this goodnight, &c.

Having bid farewell to Syon, we marched that afternoone in the way of Gaza; and arrived at night in a Kind Jewes to us Franks.goodly Village, more full of Jewes than Moores, called Hembaluda, situate on the face of a fruitfull hill, and the last limit of Judea: Here the Germanes and I were well intertained gratis, by certaine Jewes that spoke Italian, and much rejoyced to see such strangers in these bounds, for two of them had beene borne in Venice: The Captaine, and our company were all Ægyptians, all of them being Christians, called Copties, viz. beleevers: Their number was about eight hundred persons, who had come up from Ægypt, to dignify for devotions sake this Easter time, being the great feast of Jerusalem; Of whom by the way we received great affability & kind respect without any offence.

That night the whole Caravan lay in the fields, and we stayed within the Towne making merry with our Hebraick friends, earely the next morning wee imbraced our Idumean way, finding this Edomitish land sorely [VI. 291.]distressed by the Arabs, and yet the Inhabitants were subject to the Turke: In this long dayes journey we found abundance of water, and all other necessaries for our reliefe, and yet the people were both rude & extreame barbarous, having no more show of humanity then the foure footed Leopards of Berdoa.

The Dutch Gentlemen grew affrayed at these savages, as being unacquainted before with such an awful sight; and to dispell their feare, tush sayd I, courage Gentlemen, no scope, no hope, and flashd over these lines in Italian to them;

The auncient City of Gaza.Againe night we declined towards Gaza, and there stayed in a fine Cane prepared for Travellers; where the whole Caravan, Souldiers, Camels, Dromodores, Mules, and Asses were all well satisfied and refreshed: The next morning we went to the Bezestan or market place, and there furnished our selves with provision of Bread, Hens, Egges, Garlicke, and Onions, sufficient enough to carry us through the desarts being ten dayes journey. Gaza now is called Habalello, and is composed of twelve hundred fire-houses, and sensible against the incursions of Arabs: The ruvid Cittizens, being Turkes, Moores, Jews, domeseticke Arabians, with a few Georgians, & Nostranes.

There is a Garrison here of Souldiers, and a Turkish Captaine, that commandeth the Towne and Castle: In [VI. 292.]the afternoone, we set our faces forward to that fearefull Wildernesse, and travailed or night twelve miles, pitching our Tents beside a source or standing Well. Here our Guard, kept a strict Watch about us all night; and I kept as well the Germanes from langour, cherishing them with joviall merriments, for they were my inward friends, yet of a faint and fearefull nature. At the breach of day we set forward, passing through diverse Rockey and shrubby heights, till afternoone, and then wee declined to a sandy valley: Where when come, what with the deepnesse Burning Sands.of the Way, and the great heate reflexing upon the sand, and from the Sand to our faces, we were miserably turmoiled, especially I, who went alwayes on foote.

Having past this wearisome bottome, and before night marching along the skirt of a craggy Hill, two hundred Arabs broake out upon us from holes and bushes, and shrewdly annoyed our Company with Arrowes, till a contribution of sixteene Piasters was sent to them. The halfe of that night we pitched our Tents, in a pastorable Wild Arabs selling water.plaine, where some scattering Arabs, sold us Water in Wooden Cups, carrying it in Wilde Boare skins upon their naked backes. Two of which Savages our Captayne hyred, to guide us the next day to the first Castle of the three, that were built by the Turkes, and a dayes journey distant one from another; beeing each of them strongly guarded with Souldiers, and that for the reliefe of Caravans, being the most dangerous, and most desolate place in the Desarts.

Our Guides the day following, brought us through the best and safest places of the Country, where we found certayne profitable parts, planted with haire-cloath tents, and over-cled heere and there with spots of Sheepe and Goates: and yet were we not there without the invasion of stragling Arabs, and paying of tributes, which the [VI. 293.]Captaine defrayed for us, our condition being formerly made so at Jerusalem. Before night with great heat, and greater drouth, we approached to the first Castle, where the Captayne thereof received us kindly, causing our Tents to be pitched round about the Quadrangled Tower. Here we had abundance of Water (though I would rather have had Wine) to suffice the whole Company, drawne out of a Cisterne, and reposing safely uppon the hard ground, the Castle Garrison watched us, and our guard watched them.

Grievous and desertuous travelling.Thence with a new Guide the sequell morne, we marched through a fiery faced plaine, scorch’d with burning heate, and deepe rolling Sand, where diverse of our smallest Beasts perished, with sixe men and Women also in relieving their overwhelmed Asses. Long or midday, having got to a hard height, we pitched our Tents, reposing under their shaddowes till the evening, for wee were not able to indure the intollerable heate of the Sun; and so did wee likewise over-umbrate our selves every mid-day. The vigour of the day gone, and the cooling night come, we advanced forward to the middle Castle, being led by our Guide, and the pale Lady of the night leading him: Where when come, wee found neyther that Fort answerable to the former in strength, nor the Captaine so humane as the other was: Here wee were all offended with the scarcity of Water, the Captayne playing the Villaine, crossed us, because the Caravanship were Christians; at last about mid-night some 30. Arabs, came to us loaden with Water, carried on their backes. To whom we payed for every Caraff, beeing an English quart, three Aspers of silver, ten Aspers going to a shilling: Whereof my kinde Dutch-men drunke too [VI. 294.]much, the Water being thicke and of a brounish colour; and hot like pisse, offended their over-wained stomackes; which as I supposed, was the chiefest cause the next day of some of their Deaths.

After mid-night, the Turkish Captaine, and our Caravan fell at variance, about Water to our Beasts, who were ready to choake, and if they had not bin prevented with Souldiers on both sides, it had drawne us and them, to a finall mischiefe. The discord unpacified, before the following day, and within night, we imbraced our wilsome and fastidious Way, journying through many dens, and umbragious Caves, over-shaded with mouldring heights; Savage women having their Child-bed in Caves.in some whereof we found Savage Women lying in their Barbarous child-bed: having their bodies naked (the fore-face of their Wombe excepted) their beds were made of soft Sand, and over-spread with leaves a foote thicke; whose new borne Babes lying in their armes, were swadled with the same Leaves. And for all their sicknesse, which was very small, they had none of our Wives sugred sops, burnt Wines, Venison pasties, Delicate fare, and great Feasting, nor a moneths lying in, and then Churched, putting their husbands to incompatible charges. No, no, their food is onely Bread, Garlicke, Hearbes, and Water, and on the third or fourth day, in stead of their Churching, they goe with Bowes and Arrowes to the fieldes againe, hunting for spoiles and booties from passing Caravans.

Advancing in our course, we fell downe from the hils in a long bottome of Sand, above sixe miles in length: Wherein with sore Wrestling agaynst the parching Sun, and could get no ground to pitch our Tents to over shade us; three of our Germans, the two Barons, Signior Strouse, and Signior Crushen, with one Signior Thomasio, [VI. 295.]tumbled downe from their beasts backes starke dead, being The death of three Germane Gentlemen.suffocated with the vigorous Sunne, for it was in May, choaked also with extreame drouth, and the reflection of the burning sand; and besides their faire was growne miserable, and their Water worse, for they had never beene acquainted with the like distresse before, though it was alwayes my vade Mecum. Whereupon the Caravan staied and caused cast on their Corpes againe, on their owne beasts backes, and carrying them to the side of a hard Hill, we digged a hollow pit, and disspoyling them of their Turkish cloathes, I did with my owne hands cast them all three one above another, in that same hole, and covering the Corpes with mouldring earth, the Souldiers helped me to role heavy stones above their grave, to the end, that the bloody Jackals should not devoure their corpes; and to conclude this woefull and sorrowfull accident, the other Germanes alive bestowed on me their dead friends Turkish garments, because of my love and diligent care I ever did show them; which one of their empty Mules carried for me to Grand Cairo.

Whence with diverse assaults, and greater paines, accoasting The third Castle of the desarts.the third Castle, with as great bewailing the losse of our friends, as we had contentment in our owne safety, we found this third Captayne both humane and hospitable: Who indeede himselfe in person with his Garrison, watched us all night, and had a speciall care in providing Water for us all, propining our Captayne and us eight Frankes before supper, with three roasted Hens, and two Capons: This Turkish Captayne told us there were three inhabited Townes in these Desarts, the chiefest whereof was Sehan, situate on the Red Sea, having a harbor and shipping, that Trade both to Ægypt and Æthiopia, whose commodities are silken stuffes and Spices [VI. 296.]which they transport from Meccha, and carrie to Melinda, and the afore-sayd places in Affricke: But now least I sinke in Prolixity, discoursing of sinking Sands, and make good the Italian Proverbe, Chi troppo abbracio, nulla stringe, viz. That he who would imbrace too much, can hold nothing fast. I decist from this Journall proceeding, and punctuall Discourse of my laborious Pen, wherein, notwithstanding the Reader (I having layd open more than halfe of the Wildernesse) may (like that learned Geometrician, who finding the length of Hercules foote on the Hill Olympus, drew forth the portraicture of his whole body thereby) easily conjecture by the former Relation, the sequell sight of these Desartuous places; and therefore the rest, I will onely Epitomize in generall till mine arrivall at Saleack on the Confines of Ægypt.

The bounds of the three Arabias.Arabia is bounded on the West, with the Red Sea, and the Ægyptian Istmus: On the North with Canaan, Mesopotamia, and a part of Syria: On the East with the Persian gulfe, Caldea, and Assiria: On the South with the great Ocean, and Indian Sea: This Countrey lyeth from the East to the West, in length about 900. and some 3500. miles in compasse. The people generally are addicted to Theft, Rapine, and Robberies: hating all Sciences Mechanicall or Civill, they are commonly all of the second Stature, swift on foote, scelerate, and seditious, boysterous in speech, of colour Tauny, boasting much of their triball Antiquity, and noble Gentry: Notwithstanding their garments be borne with them from the bare Belly, their food also semblable, to their ruvid condition, and as savagiously tame (I protest) as the foure footed Citizens of Lybia: They are not valourous, nor desperate in [VI. 297.]assaults without great advantage, for a 100. Turkes is truely esteemed to be sufficient enough to incounter 300. Arabs. Their language extendeth it selfe farre both in Asia, and Affricke, in the former, through Palestine, Syria, Mesopotamia, Cilicia, even to the Mount Caucasus: In the latter, through Ægypt, Libia, and all the Kingdomes of Barbary even to Morocco.

This Arabia deserta, is the place where the people of Israel wandred forty yeares long, being fed with Manna from Heaven, and with water out of the driest rocks: In which is Mount Sinai, where the Law of the two The scurrile Arabian Desarts.Tables was promulgated. The most part of these Desarts is neither fit for herbage nor tillage, being covered over with a dry, and a thicke Sand, which the wind transporteth whither it listeth, in heapes and mountaines, that often intercept and indanger fatigated Travellers. The Inhabitants here are few, so are their Cities, their dwellings being in sequestrate dennes and haire-cloath Tents: The most of their wealth consisteth in Camels Dromidories, and Goats.

Before our arrivall in Saleak, we passed the little Istmus of ground which parteth Asia, and Affrica, disjoyning the Mediterranean and the red Seas: Divers have attempted to digge through this strait to make both Seas meete for a nearer passage to India, of whom Sesostris King of Ægypt was the first: Secondly, Darius the great Persian Monarch: Thirdly, another Ægyptian King, who drew a ditch 100. foote broad, and 30. and odde miles long. But when he intended to finish it, he was forced to cease, for feare of overflowing all the lower land, the red Sea being found to be higher by three cubits than the ordinary plaine of Ægypt: Yet howsoever it was, the ditch is hollow in divers parts, and fastidious, because of sands to passe over.

[VI. 298.]At Saleack we overtooke a great Caravan of two thousand people, and twelve hundred Camels and Dromidores, which were loaden with the ware of Aleppo, and come from Damascus, intending their voyage for Cayro, whose company we subtilly left, & marchd before them, for receiving of water by the way for our selves, and beasts out of Cisternes, which we left dry behind us.

The nature of Camels and Dromidores.A Dromidore, and Camel differ much in quality, but not in quantity, being of one height, bredth, and length; save only their heads and feete, which are proportionated alike; and the difference is such, that the Dromidory hath a quicke and hard-reaching trot, and will ride above 80. miles in the day, if that his rider can indure the paine. But the Camell is of a contrary disposition: For he hath a most slow and lazy pace, removing the one foote from the other, as though he were weighing his feete in a ballance; neither can he goe faster although he would: But he is a great deale more tractable then the other: For when his maister loadeth him, he falleth downe on his knees to the ground, and then riseth againe with his burthen, which will be marvailous great, sometimes 600. or 800. weight.

The red Sea, which we left to the Westward of us, and our left hand is not red, as many suppose, but is the very colour of other Seas: The reason for which it hath beene called Mare rubrum, is only because of the bankes, rushes, sands & bushes that grow by the shore side, which are naturally red. Some others have called it so, in respect of the Brookes, which Moses turned to red blood, who misconstruing the true sense, tooke Seas, for Rivers.

It is vulgarly tearmed Sinus Arabicus, whose length is 1600. miles. This Sea is famous for the miraculous passage of the Israelites through it, and the drowning of [VI. 299.]Pharaoh and his people: and because of Spices that were brought from India and Arabia to Alexandria, from whence the Venetians dispersed the same through all Europe and the Mediterren coasts of Asia and Affrick: But this Navigation is now discontinued by the Portugals, English, and Dutch; which bring such Wares to their severall homes by the backe side of Affricke: So that the Trafficke Indian Spices much weakned.of Alexandria is almost decayed, and the Riches of the Venetians much diminished; so is the vertue of the Spices much impayred by too much moisture contracted, with the long and tedious carriage thereof.

This afore-sayd Saleack, is thought to be seated on the lower and Eastmost end of Gozan, consisting of eight hundred dwelling Houses, being Walled and fensible against the Arabs, and defended also with a Castle, and ten troupes of Horse-men being Janizaries. Here we rested and refreshed our selves two nights, providing us fresh victuals for Grand-Cairo, being foure dayes journey distant; and at our leaving of Saleack, I saluted this new seene Countrey, with a greedy conceit of more curiosities.