After my returne from Padua to Venice & 24. days attendance devasted there for passage, I imbarked in a Carmoesalo, being bound to Zara Novo in Dalmatia: Scarcely had we lost the sight of Venice, but we incountred with a deadly storme at Seroco e Lenante. The Master had no compasse to direct his course, neither was he expert in Navigation; because they use commonly, either on the South or North sides of the Gulfe, to hoise up sayles at night, and againe breake of day they have full sight of land; taking their directions from the topped hills of the maine continent. The tempest increasing, and the winds contrary, we were constrained to seeke up for the Port of Parenzo in Istria.

Istria was called Giapidia, according to Pliny; Cato affirmeth it was called Istria of one Isiro, but by the moderne writers, l’ultima Regione di Italia. By Ptolomeus it is sayd to be of length 100. miles, and forty large, but by mine experience onely 80. long and 20. large.

Istria hath on the South Friuli and the sea: on the West Stria: on the North Carniola: on the East the gulfe The antiquity of the Istrians.Carnaro or Quevero. It is thought the Istrians were first a people of Colchis in Natolia, who by King Ætas being sent to pursue Jason and the Argonauts (who had stolne the golden fleece and his daughter Medea) either because of the long journey, or feare of the Kings anger [II. 45.]durst not returne, and so remained in this Country, where they enjoyed a long freedom, til by many incursions of piracy, still molesting the Venetians they lost many of their Townes Anno 938. & afterward the whole Country made tributary by Duke Henry Gondolo about the yeare 1200.

That part which bordereth with the sea, belongeth to the Venetians, but the rest within land holds of the Emperour, and the Archduke of Austria. The Country it selfe aboundeth in cornes, wines and all kinds of fruites necessary for humane life. Neare to this haven wherein we lay, expecting roome windes, I saw the ruines Justinopoli decayed.of old Justinopoli, so called of Justinian the Emperour, who builded it upon an Iland of a miles length, and three acres broad: And to passe betwixt the City and the firme land, there was seven bridges made. It was aunciently strong, but now altogether decayed: The principall Cities in Istria at this day, are these, Parenzo, Humago, Pola, Rovigo.

The windes favouring us, we weighed Ankors, and sayled by the Iles Brioni, so much esteemed, for the fine stones they produce, called Istriennes: which serve to beautifie the Venetian Palaces. About midday I saw Mount di Caldaro, on the foote of which, the auncient City of Pola is situated, having a harbour wherein small shippes may lie. True it is, this Port is not much frequented, in respect of a contageous Lake neare to it, which infecteth the ayre with a filthy exhalation. I saw hard by this place, the ruines of the Castell di Oriando, the Arke Triumphant, and the reliques of a great Amphitheatre. This Pola was called by Pliny, Julia pietas; and it standeth in the South-east part of Istria. Continuing our course, we passed the perillous gulfe of Carnaro.

This gulfe or bay of Carnaro, runneth in North, and by East 50. miles within land, at the narrow entry [II. 46.]whereof, it hath a part of Istria on the West, and the Dalmatia on the East: The Venetians use to keepe alwayes certaine Gallies at the mouth of this bay, on the Dalmatian side, to intercept the cursary of the Scoks: In the bottome of this Carnarian gulfe are placed Senna, Gradisca, and Novagard, the chiefe Cities of Croatia: the people which inhabit these Townes, and the adjoyning Countrey are called Scoks, a kind of Dalmatians, being of a robust nature, courageous and desperate: Their weapons are broad two handed swords, long Skenes, carrying targets at their girdles, and long Gunnes in their hands: They are marveilous swift on foote, and dayly annoy by land their neighbouring Turkes with inrodes, fetching away great spoyles and booties, of The Scoks live under the house of Austria.cornes, cattell and horses: And by Sea with Frigots and Brigantines did ever and often vexe the Venetian commerce, in their owne domesticke waters: The great losses which from these incursive people the Venetians had from time to time received, and the other dammages they inflicted upon the Turkes in their trafficking with Venice, for whom the Venetians are bound by former articles of peace, to keepe harmelesse within their owne gulfe from all Christian invasions, was the onely and urgent cause that moved the Venetians to wage warre with Ferdinando then Duke of Grasse, and now Emperour, Anno Domini, 1616. And besieged Gradisca to their no small disadvantage, both of charges and losse of men: For the towne being strongly fortified with walles and munition, and 2000. Scoks within to defend it, would often at the neare approaching of the enemy make a salley forth on horse and foote, giving many miserable overthrowes to the Assailants: To the which detriments, for twenty dayes space I was a testator, being after my returne from Affricke in my second travels, as [II. 47.]I was going for Hungary, Moldavia, Valecchia and Transilvania, taking this countrey in my way: And one morning at the breake of day, I saw 800. Scoks issuing out of towne, make bloudy havocke of 3000. of the Venetian army: Croatia.This part of Croatia is exceeding fertile, abounding in cornes, wines, bestiall and pastorage, though then by lawlesse, and turbulent souldiers, it was miserable defaced.

The whole number of these Scoks that are able to carry armes, be not above sixe thousand men: They are wonderfull kinde to strangers, which to me in no small measure was extended, and that by the better sort their Captaines and Commanders, and onely for the affinity of Scoki and Scoti, although I dare sweare, there is little or none at all betwixt the two Nations.

Having passed Carnaro, we sayled close by the Ile Sangego, called formerly Illrides: This Isle is of circuit foure score, and of length thirty miles. Our fresh water waxing scant, and the winds falling out contrary to our expectation, we sought into Valdogosto in the Isle of Osero, which is a safe haven for ships and Gallies. This Osero was first named Asphorus, and then Absirtides, of a Captaine Absertus, who came from Colchis, accompanied with many people, to bring backe Medea to her carefull father. Whose purpose being frustrated, stayed still, and inhabited this land. A fit oportunity obtained upon the Zara nova.eighth day, we arrived in the roade of Zara in Dalmatia; for there the Carmoesalo stayed, and I was exposed to seeke passage for Ragusa.

By the way, I recall the great kindnesse of that Dalmatian Maister, for offering my condition, I found him more then courteous, and would have no more but the halfe of that, which was his bargaine at Venice. Besides [II. 48.]this, he also entertained me three dayes, with a most bountifull, and kind acceptance: My solitary travelling he oft bewailed, wishing me to desist, and never attempt such a voyage; but I giving him absolute, and constant answers, appeased his imagined sorrow.

Ignorance and Sloth.True it is, that ignorance and sloth, make every thing terrible unto us, and we will not, because we dare not, and dare not, because we will not: This makes us submit our selves to any thing, that doth either flatter or threaten us: And like some sottish weakelings, that give the reines of their governement into the hands of their Wives or Servants, thinking then they buy their peace when they sell it; thus doe they grow upon us, I meane ignorance and sloth, and by composition, not force, become masters of the place, being just so strong, as we are weake. And as contrary newes delivered at one time, maketh one to heare with joy, and remember with sorrow; even so an unresolved man, in high and heroyicke designes, though seeming forward is distracted here, set on feare there, and rent asunder every where with the flashing frights of desperation: But a constant resolution can couragiously support all things; Ubicunque homo est, ibi beneficio locus est. And congratulating this Skippers courtesie, I bad farewell to his councell.

Zara is the capitall city of Dalmatia, called of old, Jadara. The inhabitants are governed by a Camarlingo, or Chamberlaine, in the behalfe of Venice. The walles whereof are strongly rampired with earth; surpassing the tops of the stone-worke: and fortified also with high Bulwarkes, and planted Canons on elevated Rampires of earth: which are above forty cubites higher then the Walles and Bulwarkes; standing in the foure severall corners of the city.

[II. 49.]There lye continually in it; a great Garrison of Souldiers to defend the towne and Citizens, who are maintained by the Duke of Venice: for he is Signior thereof. They have indured many invasions of the Turkes, especially in the yeare one thousand five hundreth and seventy, when for the space of fourteene moneths, they were dayly molested and besieged, but the victory fell ever to the Christians: If the Turkes could win this place, they might easily commaund the Adriaticall Seas, in regard of that faire Haven which is there, to receive Ships and Gallies; which maketh the Venetians not a little fearefull because of their safeguard.

Yet they licentiate the neighbouring Infidels to traffick with them, but when they enter the gates, they must deliver their weapons to the Corporall of the Squadron company: Neither may they stay within all night under the paine of imprisonment. Dalmatia.Dalmatia was called so of Mauritius the Emperour. The foure principall Provinces whereof are these, Atheos, Senebico, Spalleto and Tragurio. A part of which belongeth to Venice, another part to the arch Duke of Austria, and a third unto the Turkes. Zara is distance from Venice two hundreth miles.

When the wandring night was chased from the inferiour Ilands, by the recoursing day, and the Sunne had imparted his brightnesse to our under neighbours, and our dreames ready to possesse the Theater of the fancy, the wearisome creatures of the world declining to their rest; and under shaddow of the pale Lady of the night; even then, from Zara I imbarked in a small Frigot, bound for Lesina, with five Slavonian Marriners: who sometimes sailed, & somtimes rowed with Oares: in our way we past by the Ile of Brazza, which is of no great quantity, but fertile enough [II. 50.]for the Inhabitants, and kept by a Gentleman of Venice. It lieth in the mouth of the gulfe Narento, that divideth Dalmatia from Slavonia: Many fondly conceive that these two kingdomes are all one, but I hold the contrary opinion, both by experience, and by auncient Authors: having passed Capo di Costa, which is the beginning of Slavonia, I saw upon my right hand, a round Rocke of a great height, in forme of a Piramide; being cognominated by Easterne Mariners, Pomo, aunciently Salyro, for the good Faulcons that are bred therein. It standeth in the middest of the Gulfe betweene Slavonia and Italy, and not habitable.

A little beyond that Rocke, I saw the three Iles Tremiti: The chiefest whereof is called Teucria, but they are vulgarly called the Iles of Diomedes, who was King of Etolia. They are right opposite to Mount Gargano, now called Mount S. Angelo.Saint Angelo, and distant from the maine land of Apulia in Italy about nine miles.

This Mount Saint Angelo standeth in Apulia, bending in the Sea with a large promontore, it is in compasse ninety miles? Neare to this Mountaine, was that great battell fought, betweene Hanniball and the Romanes: the overthrow fell to the Romanes, under the conduct of Paulus Æmilius, and other Consuls, of whom were slaine fourty two thousand and seven hundred; And if Hanniball had followed this victory, he had easily that day subdued the common-wealth of Rome: which made Maharball Captaine of his horse-men rebuke him thus, Vincere scis Hanniball victoria uti nescis.

The like said CÆsar of Pompey, when he lost the first battell they fought at Pharsalia in Greece; O Pompey, Pompey, If thou hadst knowne how to have used the [II. 51.]victory, as thou hadst it, thou mightest have beene this day Lord of the whole World.

A woful battell.So to our lamentable memory, may that last battell be recorded fought in Hungary, betweene the Turkes and Christians, of whom Maxamilian Duke of Isbrugh this present Emperours Uncle was Generall: who having had a nocturnall victory, and the Infidels put to the flight, they remaining in the Campe more busie about the spoyles then their owne safety; the Turkes returned againe before day, the Christians being disordered with booties and the ravening of their whores, they put them all to the edge of the sword: O miserable confusion! Little better might I speake of the battell of Lepanto being abusd even in the using of it, and that glorious victory no waies followed, as good fortune had given them an awfull opportunity: For Don John of Austria their Generall had a greater mind to seaze upon the Ile of Corfu, and to robbe Venice of her liberty, then to prosecute with vengeance the brave beginning of so notable a victory; and yet his treachery was discoverd, and by the Venetian Generall speedily disappointed, to his eternall shame both wayes.

The poore Slavonians being fatigated in their hunger-starving Boat, with extraordinary paines (for we had three daies calme, which is not usually seene in these Seas) were enforced to repose all night at the barren Ile of St. Andrew: This Ile is of circuite foure miles, but not inhabited: The excessive raine that fell in the evening, made us goe on shoare, to seeke the coverture of some rocke; which found, we lay all night on hard stones, and with hungry bellies: for our provision was spent. The breach of day giving comfort to our distressed bodies, with favourable windes at the Garbo e ponente, we set forward, and about midday we arrived in the Port of Lesina, of [II. 52.]which the Ile taketh the name.

This Ile of Lesina is of circuite, a hundred and fifty miles, and is the biggest Iland in the Adriaticke Sea: It is exceeding fertile, and yeeldeth all things plentifully, that is requisite for the sustenance of man. The City is unwalled, and of no great quantity, but they have a strong fortresse, which defendeth the Towne, the Haven, and the vessels in the Roade. The Governour, who was a Venetian, after he had enquired of my intended voyage, most courteously invited me three times to his Table, in the time of my five dayes staying there: And at the last meeting, he reported the story of a marvellous mis-shapen creature borne in the Iland, asking if I would goe thither to see it: wherewith (when I perfectly understood the matter) I was contented: The Gentleman honoured me also with his company, and a horse to ride on, where when we came, the Captaine called for the father of A Monster borne in Lesina.that Monster, to bring him foorth before us. Which unnaturall Childe being brought, I was amazed in that sight, to behold the deformity of Nature; for below the middle part, there was but one body, and above the middle there was two living soules, each one separated from another with severall members. Their heads were both of one bignesse but different in Phisnomy: The belly of the one joyned with the posterior part of the other, and their faces looked both one way, as if the one had carried the other on his backe, and often before our eyes, he that was behind, would lay his hands about the necke of the formost. Their eyes were exceeding bigge, and their hands greater then an Infant of three times their age. The excrements of both creatures issued foorth at one place, and their thighes and legges of a great growth, not semblable to their age, being but sixe and thirty dayes [II. 53.]old; and their feete were proportionably made like to the foot of a Cammell, round and cloven in the middest. They received their food with an insatiable desire, and continually mourned with a pitifull noyse; that sorrowfull man told us, that when the one slept, the other awaked, which was a strange disagreement in Nature. The Mother of them bought dearely that birth, with the losse of her owne life; as her Husband reported, unspeakeable was that torment she indured, in that woefull wrestling paine. I was also informed afterwards, that this one, or rather twofold wretch lived but a short while after we saw them.

Leaving this monstrous shapen Monster to the owne strange, and almost incredulous Nativity, we returned to Lesiva. But by the way of our backe comming, I remember that worthy Gentleman who shewed me the ruines of an old house, where the noble Demetrius.King Demetrius was borne; and after I had yeelded by bounden and dutifull thankes unto his generous minde, I hired a Fisher-boate to goe over to Clissa, being twelve miles distant. This Ile of Clissa is of length twenty, and of circuit threescore miles: It is beautified with two profitable Sea-ports, and under the Signiory of Venice. There are indifferent good commodities therein; upon the South side of this Iland lieth the Ile Pelagusa, a rocky and barren place.

Departing from thence in a Carmoesalo bound to Ragusa, we sailed by the three Iles, Brisca, Placa, Igezi; And when we entred in the Gulfe of Cataro, we fetched up the sight of the Ile Melida, called of old Meligna: Before we could attaine unto the Haven, wherein our purpose was to stay all night, we were assailed on a sudden with a deadly storme: Insomuch, that every swallowing wave threatned our death, and bred in our breasts, an intermingled sorrowe of feare and hope. And yet hard [II. 54.]by us, and within a mile to the ley-ward, a Barbarian man of war of Tunneis, carrying two tyre of Ordonance, and 200. men, seaz’d upon a Carmosale of Venice, at the first shot, she being loaden with Malvasie and Muscadine and come from Candy, and had us also in chase till night divided our contrary designes. The winds becomming favourable, and our double desired safety enjoyed, both because of the sea storme, and of the stormy Pyrat, we set forward in the Gulfe of Cataro, and sayled by the Cursola.Ile Cursola: in this island I saw a walled towne called Curzola, which hath two strong Fortresses to guard it. It is both commodious for the trafficke of Merchandize they have, and also for the fine wood that groweth there, whereof the Venetian Ships and Gallies are made: An Iland no lesse pleasant then profitable; and the two Governours thereof are changed every eighteene moneths, by the State of Venice.

It was of old called Curcura, Melana, and of some Corcira Nigra, but by the Modernes, Curzola. Continuing our course, we passed by the iles Sabionzello, Torquolla, and Catza Augusta, appertaining to the Republike of Ragusa. They are all three well inhabited and fruitfull, yeelding cornes, wines, and certaine rare kinds of excellent fruites. It is dangerous for great vessels to come neere their coasts, because of the hidden shelfs that lie off in the sea, called Augustini, where divers ships have beene cast away in fowle weather; upon the second day after our loosing from Clissa, we arrived at Ragusa.

Ragusa.Ragusa is a Common-weale, governed by Senators, and a Senate Counsell; it is wonderfull strong, and also well guarded, being situate by the sea side, it hath a fine Haven, and many goodly ships thereunto belonging: The greatest trafficke they have, is with the Genueses: Their [II. 55.]territory in the firme land is not much in respect of the neighbouring Turkes, but they have certaine commodious ilands, which to them are profitable: And notwithstanding, of the great strength and riches they possesse, yet for their better safeguard and liberty, they pay a yearly tributary pension unto the great Turke, amounting to fourteene thousand Chickens of Gold: yea, and also they pay yearely a tributary pension unto the Venetians, for the Iles reserved by them in the Adriaticall Gulfe, so that both by sea and land they are made tributary citizens. The most part of the civill Magistrates, have but the halfe of their heads bare, but the vulger sort are all shaven like to the Turkes.

This Citty is the Metropolitan of the Kingdome of Slavonia.Slavonia: Slavonia was first called Liburnia, next, Illiria, of Ilirio the sonne of Cadmus: But lastly, named Slavonia, of certaine slaves that came from Sarmatia passing the river Danubio, in the time of the Emperour Justinian: Croatia lying North-west from hence, is the third Province of this auntient Ilyria, and was formerly called Valeria, or Corvatia: It hath on the West Istria and Carniola: on the East and South, Dalmatia: on the North North-west a part of Carindia quasi Carinthia, and northerly Savus: So much as is called Slavonia, extendeth from the River Arsa in the West, the river Drino in the East, on the South bordereth with the Gulfe of Venice, and on the North with the Mountaines of Croatia: These Mountaines divide also Ragusa from Bosna. Bosna is bounded on the West with Croatia, and on the South with Illiricum, or Slavonia, on the East with Servia: and on the North with the River Savus.

The next two speciall Citties in that Kingdome, are Sabenica and Salona. The Slavonians are of a robust [II. 56.]nature, martiall, and marvellous valiant fellowes, and a great helpe to maintaine the right and liberty of the Venetian State, serving them both by sea and land, and specially upon their Galleyes and men of Warre. From Ragusa I imbarked in a Tartareta, loaden with corne, and bound to Corfu, being three hundred miles distant.

In all this way we found no Iland, but sayled along the maine land of the Illirian shoare: having passed the Gulfe of Cataro, and Capo di Fortuna, I saw Castello novo: which is a strong Fortresse, situate on the top of a Rocke: wherein one Barbarisso, the Captaine of Solyman, 4000. Spaniards starvd to death.starved to death foure thousand Spaniards. Having left Illiria Albania, and Valona behind us, we sayled by Capo di Palone, the large promontore of which, extendeth to eight miles in length, being the face of a square and maine Rocke. This high land is the furthest part of the Gulfe of Venice, and opposite against Capo di Sancta Maria in Apulia, each one in sight of another, and fourteene leagues distant. Continuing our Navigation, we entred into the Sea Ionium, and sayled along the coast of Epire, which was the famous Kingdome of the Epirotes, and the first beginning of Greece. Epirus is environed on the South with the sea Ionian: on the East with Macedon; On the West North west, with Albania; and on the North, with a part of Rascia, and the huge Hill HÆmus: Of which Mountaine Stratonicus was wont to say, that for eight moneths in the yeare, it was exceeding cold, and for the other foure, it was Winter: This long Mountaine devideth also Greece from Mysia, called vulgarly Bulgaria, lying on the North of HÆmus, and to the South of Danubio, even Eastward to the Euxine sea: Which River parteth also Dacia, from Mysia the superiour, the which Dacia being an auncient and famous countrey, [II. 57.]containeth these Provinces, Transilvania, Moldavia, Vallachia, Servia, and Bosna: Here in this Kingdome of Epyre, was the noble and valiant Pirhus King, who made so great warres upon the Romanes, and at last by a woman of Argos was killed with a stone: The most valerous Captaine George Castriot surnamed Scanderberg.Scanderberg, the great terrour and scourge unto the Turkes was borne here; of whom it is recorded, he slew at diverse battels with his owne hands, above three thousand Turkes; obtaining also many fortunate victories against Amurath and Mahomet: After whose death and buriall, his body was digged up by the Turkes, and joyfull was that man could get the least bit of his bones to preserve, and carry about with him, thinking thereby so long as he kept it, he should alwayes be invincible, which the Turkes observe to this day, and likely to do it to their last day. And more,

In this countrey are these two Rivers, Acheron and Cocytus; who for their minerall colours, and bitter tasts, were surnamed the Rivers of Hell; and the sacred Mount Pindus, celebrate to Apollo and the Muses so well memorized by Poets, is here. It is now called Mezzona, at the foote of which springeth the River of Peneia, called Modernely Salepiros, but more properly Azababa, and keeping his extreamest course through the fields of pleasure, named by the auncients Tempi, being five miles long, and as much large, lying betweene the two Hils Osso and Olympus, and watering that beautiful plaine, the faire Peneian spring, or Azababan River, disburdeneth it selfe in the gulfe Thessalonick. This is the first kingdom of Greece, and of a great length consisting betweene [II. 58.]the West, most part of Albania, as a perpendicular Province annexed to it, and the Arcadian Alpes, which divide Ætolia and Acarnania, the East-most regions of it, from Sparta, Thessaly, and the old Mirmidons Countrey of Macedon, amounteth to foure hundred and eight miles, lying along by the Sea side, whose breadth extendeth all the way along Northward to the hill HÆmus, above 68. miles. The chiefe Towne of Epyre, where the Kings had their residence, was called Ambracia, modernely Laerto named of a river running by it: And upon the sixt day after our departure from Ragusa, we arrived at Corfu.

The Ile Corfu.Corfu is an Iland, no lesse beautifull, then invincible: It lieth in the Sea Ionean, the Inhabitants are Greekes, and the Governours Venetians: This Ile was much honoured by Homer, for the pleasant Gardens of Alcino, which were in his time. This Alcino was that Corcyrian Poet, who so benignely received Ulysses after his shipwracke, and of whom Ovid said.

This Ile was given to the Venetians by the Corsicans, Anno. 1382. because they were exposed to all the injuries of the world: It lieth like to a halfe moone, or halfe a circle East and North: The Easterne Cape is called Leuchino, the other Northward, St. Katerina; the second Towne whereof is called Pagleopoli: It is of circuite one hundred and twenty, in length fifty two, and thirty seaven in breadth, and foureteene miles distant from Epyre. The City Corfu, from which the Ile hath the name, is situate at the foote of a Mountaine, whereupon are builded two [II. 59.]strong Fortresses, and invironed with a naturall Rocke: The one is called Fortezza Nova and the other Fortezza vecchia: They are well governed, and circumspectly kept, least by the instigation of the one Captaine, the other should commit any treasonable effect: And for the same purpose, the Governours of both Castles, at their election before the Senatours of Venice are sworne; neither privately, nor openly to have mutuall conference; nor to write one to another, for the space of two yeares, which is the time of their government. These Castles are inaccessable, and unconquerable, if that the Keepers be loyall, and provided with naturall and martiall furniture. They are vulgarly called, Two strong Castles.The Forts of Christendome, by the Greekes; but more justly, The strength of Venice: for if these Castles were taken by the Turkes, or by the Spanyard who would as gladly have them, the trade of the Venetian Merchants would be of none account; yea the very meane to overthrow Venice it selfe.

Corfu formerly Corcyra. was by some called PhÆacia, so denominate from a Virgin of that name, who was here supposed to have beene deflowred by Neptune. This Ile produceth good store of Wines, Oyle, Wax, Honey, and delicate fruits.

From thence after certaine daies abode, I imbarked in a Greekish Carmesalo, with a great number of passengers, Greekes, Slavonians, Italians, Armenians, and Jewes, that were all mindefull to Zante, and I also of the like intent; being in all fourty eight persons: having roome windes, and a fresh gale, in 24. houres we discovered the Ile Cephalonia the greater; and sayled close along Cephalonia minor, or the lesser Ithaca, called now Val di Compare, being in length twenty, and in circuite fifty sixe miles, renowned for the birth of Laertes sonne, Ulysses;

On our left hand toward the maine, we saw an Iland, called Saint Maure, formerly Leucas, or Leucada; which is onely inhabited by Jewes, to whome Bajazet the second gave it in possession, after their expulsion from Spaine: The chiefe City is Saint Maure, which not long agoe was subject to Venice. This Ile Saint Maure was aunciently contiguate with the continent, but now rent asunder, and invironed with the sea: In this meane while of our navigable passage, the Captaine of the vessell espied a Saile comming from Sea, he presently being moved therewith, sent a Mariner to the toppe, who certified him she was a Turkish Galley of Biserta, prosecuting a straight course to invade our Barke. Which sudden affrighting newes overwhelmed us almost in despare. Resolution being by the amazed Maister demaunded, of every man what was best to doe, some replyed one way, and some another: Insomuch, that the most part of the passengers gave counsell, rather to render, then fight; being confident, their friends would pay their ransome, and so relieve them. But I the wandring Pilgrime, pondering in my pensive breast, my solitary estate, the distance of my Country and friends, could conceive no hope of deliverance. Upon the which troublesome and fearefull appearance of slavery, A counsell to fight.I absolutely arose, and spoke to the Maister, saying: The halfe of the Carmosalo is your owne, and the most part also of the loading (all which he had told me before:) wherefore my counsell is, that you prepare your selfe to fight, and goe encourage your passengers, promise to your Mariners double wages, make ready your two peeces of [II. 61.]Ordonance, your Muskets, Powder, Lead and halfe-Pikes: for who knoweth, but the Lord may deliver us from the thraldome of these Infidels, My exhortation ended, he was greatly animated therewith, and gave me thankes; whereupon, assembling the passengers and Mariners, he gave good comfort, and large promises to them all: So that their affrighted hopes were converted to a couragious resolution; seeming rather to give the first assault, then to receive the second wrong.

To performe the plots of our defence, every man was busie in the worke, some below in the Gunner-roome, others cleansing the Muskets, some preparing the powder and balles, some their Swords, and short weapons, some dressing the halfe-pikes, & others making fast the doores above: for so the Maister resolved to make combate below, both to save us from small shot, and besides for boording us on a sudden. The dexterous courage of all men was so forward to defend their lives and liberty, that truely in mine opinion we seemed thrice as many as we were. All things below and above being cunningly perfected, and every one ranked in order with his Harquebuse and pike, to stand on the Centinell of his owne defence, we recommended our selves in the hands of the Almighty: and in the meane while attended their fiery salutations.

In a furious spleene, the first Hola of their courtesies, was the progresse of a martiall conflict, thundring forth a terrible noise of Galley-roaring peeces. And we in a sad reply, sent out a backe-sounding eccho of fiery flying shots: which made an Æquivox to the clouds, rebounding backward in our perturbed breasts, the ambiguous sounds of feare and hope. After a long and doubtfull fight, both with great and small shot (night parting us) the Turkes [II. 62.]retired till morning, and then were mindfull to give us the new rancounter of a second alarum. But as it pleased him, who never faileth his, to send downe an unresistable tempest; about the breake of day we escaped their furious designes; and were enforced to seeke into the bay of Largostolo in Cephalonia; both because of the violent weather, and also for that a great lake was stricken into our Ship. In this fight there were of us killed three Italians, two Greekes, and two Jewes, with eleven others deadly wounded, and I also hurt in the right arme with A notable deliverance.a small shot. But what harme was done by us amongst the Infidels, we were not assured thereof, save onely this, we shot away their middle mast, and the hinder part of the puppe; for the Greekes are not expert Gunners, neither could our Harquebusadoes much annoy them, in respect they never boorded. But howsoever it was, being all disbarked on shoare, we gave thanks to the Lord for our unexpected safety, and buried the dead Christians in a Greekish Church-yard, and the Jewes were interred by the sea side.

This bay of Largastolo is two miles in length, being invironed with two little Mountaines; upon the one of these two, standeth a strong Fortresse, which defendeth the passage of the narrow Gulfe. It was here that the Christian Gallies assembled, in the yeare 1571. when they came to abate the rage of the great Turks Armado; which at that time lay in Peterasso, in the firme land of Greece, and right opposite to them; and had made conquest the yeare before, of noble Cyprus from the Venetians.

The Ile of Cephalonia was formerly called Ithaca, and greatly renowned, because it was the heretable Kingdome of the worthy Ulysses, who excelled all other Greekes in Eloquence and subtility of wit. Secondly, by Strabo it was named Dulichi: And thirdly, by auncient Authors [II. 63.]Cephalonia of old Ithaca.Cephalonia, of Cephalo, who was Captaine of the Army of Cleobas Anfrittion. The which Anfrittion, a Theban Captaine having conquered the Iland, and slaine in battell Pterelaus King of Teleboas, for so then was the Iland called, gave it in a gift of government to Cephalo. This Cephalo was a Noble man of Athens, who being one day at hunting killed his owne wife Procris, with an arrow in steed of his prey, whereupon he flying to Amphitrion, and the other pittying his case, resigned this Islle to him, of whom it taketh the denomination: Cephalonia lyeth in the mouth of the Gulfe Lepanto, opposite to a part of Ætolia and Acarnania in the firme land: It is in circuit 156. and in length 48. miles.

The land it selfe is full of Mountaines, yet exceeding fertile, yeelding Malvasia, Muskadine, vino Leatico, Raysins, Olives, Figges, Honey, Sweet-water, Pine, Mol-berry, Date, and Cypre-trees, and all other sorts of fruites in abundance. The commodity of which redounds yearely to the Venetians, for they are Signiors thereof.

Leaving this weather-beaten Carmoesalo, layd up to a full sea, I tooke purpose to travell through the Iland; in the first dayes journey, I past by many fine Villages and pleasant fields, especially the vaile Alessandro; where the Greekes told me, their Ancestors were vanquished in battell by the Macedonian Conquerour. They also shewed me on the top of Mount Gargasso, the ruines of that Temple, which had beene of old dedicate to Jupiter: and upon the second day I hired two Fisher-men in a little Boat, to carry me over to Zante, being twenty five miles distant.

Here in Zante a Greekish Chyrurgion undertooke the curing of my arme, & performed condition within time.

[II. 64.]Zante.The Ile of Zante was called Zacinthus, because so was called the sonne of Dardanus, who reigned there. And by some Hyria. It hath a Citty of a great length, bordering along the sea side, the chiefe seate of the Ile, & named Zante, over the doore of whose PrÆtorium or Judgement Hall, are inscribed these verses,

And on the top of a Hill, above the towne, standeth a large, and strong Fortresse (not unlike the Castle of Milaine) wherein the Providitore dwelleth, who governeth the Iland. This Citty is subject yearely to fearefull Earthquakes, especially in the moneths of October and November, which oftentimes subvert their houses, and themselves, bringing deadly destruction on all. This Ile produceth good store of Rasini di Corintho, commonly called Currants, Olives, Pomgranates, Cytrones, Orenges, Lemmons, Grenadiers, and Mellones, and is in compasse 68. miles, being distant from the fore Promontore of Morea some 16. miles.

The Ilanders are Greekes, a kind of subtile people, and great dissemblers; but the Signiory thereof belongeth to Venice. And if it were not for that great provision of corne, which are dayly transported from the firme land of Peleponesus to them, the Inhabitants in short time would famish.

It was credibly told me here by the better sort, that this little Ile maketh yearely (besides Oyle and Wine) onely of Currants 160000. Chickins, paying yearely over and above for custome 22000. Piasters, every Chicken [II. 65.]of Gold being nine shillings English, and every Piaster being white money sixe shillings. A rent or summe of mony which these silly Ilanders could never affoord, (they being not above 60. yeares agoe, but a base beggarly people, and an obscure place) if it were not here in England of late for some Liquorous lips, who forsooth can hardly digest Bread, Pasties, Broth; and (verbi gratia) bag-puddings without these curraunts: And as these Rascall Greekes becomming proud of late with this levish expence, contemne justly this sensuall prodigality; I have heard them often demaund the English in a filthy derision, what they did with such Leprous stuffe, and if they carried them home to feed their Swine and Hogges withall: A question indeed worthy of such a female Traffike, the inference of which I suspend: There is no other Nation save this, thus addicted to that miserable Ile.

Bidding farewell to Zante, I imbarked in a Frigato, going to Peterasso in Morea, which of old was called Peloponesus: And by the way in the Gulfe Lepanto (which divideth Etolia and Morea. The chiefest Citty in Etolia is called Lepanto: from thence West-ward by the sea side, is Delphos, famous for the Oracle of Apollo) we sayled by the Iles Echinidi, but by Moderne Writers, Curzolari: where the Christians obtained the victory against the Turkes, for there did they fight, after this manner.

Christian Generalls.In the yeare 1571. and the sixth of October, Don John of Austria, Generall for the Spanish Gallies, Marco Antonio Colonna, for Pope Pio Quinto; and Sebastiano Venieco for the Venetian Army, convened altogether in Largostolo at Cephalonia: having of all 208. Gallies, sixe Galleasses, and 25. Frigotes.

After a most resolute deliberation, these three Generals went with a valiant courage to incounter with the Turkish [II. 66.]Armado, on the Sunday morning, the seventh of October: who in the end, through the helpe of Christ, obtained a The battell of Lepanto.glorious victory. In that fight there was taken and drowned 180. of Turkish Gallies; and there escaped about the number of sixe hundred and fifty shippes, Gallies, Galeotes, and other vessels: There was fifteene thousand Turkes killed and foure thousand taken prisoners, besides 4000. peeces of Ordonance, and twelve thousand Christians delivered from their slavish bondage. In all, the Christians loosed but eleven Gallies, and five thousand slaine. At their returne to Largostolo, after this victorious battell, the three Generals divided innumerable spoyles, to their well-deserving Captaines, and worthy Souldiers.

And notwithstanding Don John led that Armado, yet ambition led him, who in the midst of that famous victory, conceaved a treacherous designe, to seaze upon the castles of Corfu, under shew of the Venetian colors, which being discoverd, and he disappointed, died for displeasure in his returne to Messina in Sicilia; where there his Statue standeth to this day.

After my arrivall in Peterasso, the Metropolitan of Peloponesus, I left the turmoyling dangers of the intricated Iles, of the Ionean and Adriaticall seas, and advised to travell in the firme land of Greece, with a Caravan of Greekes that was bound for Athens.

Peterasso is a large and spacious City, full of Merchandize, and greatly beautified with all kind of Commercers, Their chiefe commodities, are raw Silkes, Cloth of gold and silver, Silken-growgranes, Rich-damas, Velvets of all kinds, with Sattins and Taffeties, and especially a Girnell for grayne: The Venetians, Ragusans, and Marseillians have great handling with them: Here I remember there was an English Factor lying, whom the Subbassa [II. 67.]or Governour of the Towne a Turke, caused privately afterward upon malice to be poysoned, even when I was wintering at Constantinople, for whose death the worthy and generous Ambassadour, Sir Thomas Glover my Patrone and Protector, was so highly incensed, that he went hither himselfe to Peterasso, with two Jannizaries, and a warrant sent with him from the Emperour, who in the midst of the market-place of Peterasso, caused one of these two Janizaries, strike off the head from the shoulders of that Sanzack; and put to death divers others also that had beene accessary to the poysoning of the English Consul; and the Ambassadour returning againe to Constantinople, was held in singular reputation even with the Turkes, for prosecuting so powerfully the course of Justice, and would not shrinke for no respect, I being domestick with him the selfe same time.

Morea in Greece.Peloponnesus now called Morea, a Peninsula, is all invironed with the sea, save onely at a narrow strait, where it is tied to the continent by an Istmus of five miles in breadth: which the Venetians then Lord of it, fortified with five Castles, and a strong wall from creeke to creeke, which easily were subverted by the Turkish batteries, the defect onely remaining in the defendants weaknesse, and want of men: Corinth and its gulfe, lyeth at the East end of this Istmus, and the gulfe Lepanto on the West, dividing Ætolia and Epyre: The wall which traversed this strait of Morea, was called Hexamite, five miles long: Truely it is one of the most famous distroit du terre en Europe. Morea it selfe is in length 168. and in compasse 546. miles, and is at this day, the most fertile, and best inhabited Province of all the Empyre of Greece: The chiefe Rivers here, are Arbona and Ropheos: Argos here also is watered with the River Planizza, neare which [II. 68.]standeth the Towne of Epidaure, wherein the Temple of Esculapius was so renowned for restoring of health to diseased persons. It was anciently cognominate Agalia from Agalius the first King, Anno Mundi 1574. and also intituled from two Kings Sicionia, and Apia, then Peloponesus from Pelops, and now Moreah. It is divided in five territories or petty Provinces, Laconia, Arcadia, Argolis, Misenia, and Eliso, the proper territory of Corinth. Of which City it was sayd,

It is sayd by Æneas Silvius in his Cosmographicall treatise of Europe that divers Kings went about to digge The strait of Morea.through this Istmus to make it an Iland, namely King Demetrius, Julius CÆsar, Caius Caligula, and Domitius Nero: Of all whome he doth note that they not onely failed of their purpose, but that they came to violent and unnaturall deaths.

But before the aforesayd Caravan at Peterasso admitted me into his company, he was wonderfull inquisitive, to know for what cause I travelled alone? & of what Nation I was? To whom I soberly excused, and discovered my selfe with modest answers. Which pacified his curiosity; but not his avaritious minde: for under a pretended protection he had of me, he extorted the most part of my money from my purse, without any regard of conscience.

In the first, second, and third dayes journeying, we had faire way, hard lodging, but good cheere, and kind entertainement for our money, which was the Countrey Laconia. But on the fourth day, when we entred in the hilly and barren Countrey of Arcadia; where, for a dayes journey we had no Village, but saw abundance of Cattell [II. 69.]without keepers; and in that place it is thought the great battell of Pharsalia was fought betweene Julius CÆsar, and Pompey the great.

Arcadia.Arcadia is bounded on the East with Eliso, on the West with Misenia, on the North with Achaia inferiour, and on the South with a part of Laconia and the sea: It was formerly termed Pelasgia, and lastly it tooke the name from Arcas the sonne of Jupiter and Calisto, the people whereof, did long imagine they were more auncient then the Moone;

But because it is a tradition of more antiquity then credit, I doe rather note it, then affirme it: And as men should dread the thunder-bolt, when they see the lightning, so ignorance and idolatry placed amongst us, and round about us, may be a warning to the professours of the trueth, to take heed of the venome, least by their Arcadian antiquitie surpassing the Moone, they become novices to some new intended massacre, for as powder faild them, but alas, not poison! so now with policy they prevaile in all things: how long the holy one of Israell knoweth, but certainely, our sinnes are the causes of their domineering and of our carelesse drouping.

In this Desart way, I beheld many singular Monuments, and ruinous Castles, whose names I knew not, because I had an ignorant guide: But this I remember, amongst these rockes my belly was pinched, and wearied was my body, with the climbing of fastidious mountaines, which bred no small griefe to my breast. Yet notwithstanding of my distresse, the rememberance of these sweet seasoned Songs of Arcadian Sheepheards which pregnant Poets have so well penned, did recreate my fatigated corps with [II. 70.]many sugred suppositions. These sterile bounds being past, we entred in the Easterne plaine of Morea, called aunciently Sparta, where that sometimes famous Citty of Lacedemon flourished, but now sacked, and the lumpes of ruines and memory onely remaines. Marching thus, we left Modena and Napoli on our right hand, toward the sea side, and on the sixt day at night, we pitched our tents in the disinhabited villages of Argo and Micene, from the which unhappy Helen was ravished.

The rapt of Helen.This cursed custome of base prostitution, is become so frequent, that the greater sort of her mercenary sexe, following her footsteps, have out-gone her in their loathsom journeies of Libidinous wayes: she being of such an infinite and voluptuous crew, the arch mistresse and ring-leader to destruction, did invite my Muse to inveigh against her lascivious immodesty, as the inordinate patterne of all willing and licentious rapts:

Here in Argos I had the ground to be a pillow, and the world-wide-fields to be a chamber, the whirling windy-skies, to be a roofe to my Winter-blasted lodging, and the humide vapours of cold Nocturna, to accompany the unwished-for-bed of my repose. What shall I say then, the solid, and sad man, is not troubled with the floods and ebbes of Fortune, the ill imployed power of greatnesse, nor the fluctuary motions of the humerous multitude; or at least, if he be sensible of his owne, or their irregularities, or confusions, yet his thoughts are not written in his face, his countenance is not significant, nor his miseries further seene than in his owne private suffering; whereas the face and disposition of the feeble one, ever resembleth his last thoughts, and upon every touch, or taste of that which is displeasant and followes not the streames of his appetite, his countenance deformeth it selfe, and like the Moone, is in as many changes as his fortune, but the noble resolution must follow Æneas advice in all his adventures;

In all this countrey of Greece I could finde nothing, [II. 72.]to answer the famous relations, given by auncient Authors, of the excellency of that land, but the name onely; the barbarousnesse of Turkes and Time, having defaced all the Monuments of Antiquity: No shew or honour, no habitation of men in an honest fashion, nor possessours of the Countrey in a Principality. But rather prisoners shut up in prisons, or addicted slaves to cruell and tyrannicall Maisters: So deformed is the state of that once worthy Realme, and so miserable is the burthen of that afflicted people: which, and the apparance of that permanency, grieved my heart to behold the sinister working of blind Fortune, which alwayes plungeth the most renowned Champions, and their memory, in the profoundest pit of all extremities and oblivion.

Greeke Champions.Let the Ghosts of that Theban Epaminondas, that Mirmidonian Phillip, & these Epirean worthies, Pyrhus and Scanderberg, be witnesses hereto; but especially, that Macedonian Alexander, whose fortunes ever followed him, rather than fled him til his last dissolution; wherein I may say his greatnesse rose; Like to a mighty and huge Oke, being cled with the exuvials, and Trophees of enemies fenced with an army of boughes garnished with a coat of barke as hard as Steele; despising the force and power of the Winds, as being onely able to dally with the leaves, and not to weaken the roote: But the Northerne wind, that strong Champion of the airy Region, secretly lurking in the vault of some hollow cloude, doth first murmure at this aspiring Oke, and then striketh his Crest with some greater strength; and lastly, with the deepest breath of his Lungs, doth blow up the roote: Even so was it with Alexander, who from a stripling came to be a Cedar, and from the sorrow of no more worlds, was soone cut off from the world he was into: For destiny [II. 73.]is no mans drudge, and death is every mans conquerour, matching the Scepter, with the Spade, and the crowned Prince with the praislesse Peasant: And in a word, there was never any to whom fortune did sooner approach, nor never any from whom she did more suddenly flee, then from Alexander, leaving him a cleare mirrour of the worlds inconstancy.

Now as concerning the government of Greece, tearmd by the Turkes, Rum Ili, that is, the Romane Country: The Beglerbeg of Greece.It is ruled by a Beglerbeg, or Bassa, this word Beglerbeg imports, Lord of Lords, in regard of the Sanzacks, or Subbassaes under them, who also are tearmed Lords; which is a barbarous pride in an ambitious style: This Beglerbeg of Greece, retaineth his residence at Sophia the Metropole of Bulgaria, formerly Dacia, and is the greatest Commaunder of all other Bassaes in the Turkish Provinces of Europe.

All other Beglerbegs are changed every third yeare, or continued according to the Imperiall pleasure, neither may they returne from their station during this time. But this Bassa of Greece, keepeth his government for his life-time, and remaineth most at Court: He reserveth under his commaund, fourty thousand Timariots or Horsemen; led under the conduct of twenty two Sanzacks, or Judges deputies of Jurisdictions; to wit, two in Albania, at the Townes Iscodera, and Ancolina: two in Achaia, at Delvina, and Albassan: three in Thessalia, at Priasim, Salonica, and Trichola: two in Sparta, at Misietra and Paleopatra: three in Macedonia, at Carmona, Selistria, and Giastandila: one in Moldavia, at Acheranma: in Bulgaria, one at Sophia: in Thracia, one at Viazza: in [II. 74.]Epyre, one at Ducagina: in Ætolia, one at Joanina: in Peleponesus, one at Peterasso: the rest are Usopia, Nycopolis, Corinth, and Bandera towards the black-sea, and to the Northward of Danubio, at his kissing the Euxine waves: This much for the Beglerbeg ship of Greece, and the Provinces thereunto adjoyning.

Departing from Argos, upon the seventh day we arrived at Athens.Athens: Athens is still inhabited, standing in the East part of Peloponnesus, neere to the frontiers of Macedon, or Thessaly by the Sea side. It was first called Cecropia: Of one Cecrops the first King thereof, who first founded it, Anno Mundi, 2409. it was after mightily inlarged by Theseus, and well provided with good lawes by Solon, and lastly Athens of Minerva: In whose honour for a long time were celebrate solemne playes, called Panathanaia: Athens is now termed Salenos, and was once the shrill sounding Trumpet of Mars, yeelding more valiant Captaines and Commanders then any City in the World, Rome excepted: It was a custome here, that when any man was growne too wealthy or potent, he was banished thence for ten yeares: This exile was intituled Ostracisme, because his name who was abandoned was written in an Oyster-shell: Great combustions and mutinies have happened betweene Lacedemon, and Athens; at last it was sacked by Lysander, and her Virgin body prostituted to the lust of 30. insulting Tyrants; not long after whose expulsion, it was utterly subdued by the Macedonians.

And in a word Athens being stayned with intestine blood-sheds, and grievously discontented with the death of her children; her babes were brought forth, for the sword to glut upon, the bodies of her auncients were made as Pavements to walke upon, her matrones became a prey and prise to every Ravisher, and her Priests and [II. 75.]Sacrificers were slaine before the gates of their Temples.

This City was the Mother & Well-spring of all liberall Arts and Sciences; and the great Cisterne of Europe, whence flowed so many Conduit pipes of learning all where, but now altogether decayed: The circuit of old Athens hath beene according to the fundamentall walles yet extant about sixe Italian miles, but now of no great quantity, nor many dwelling houses therein; being within two hundreth fire houses, having a Castle which formerly was the Temple of Minerva. They have abundance of all things, requisite for the sustenance of humane life, of which I had no small proofe: For these Athenians or Greekes, exceeding kindly banqueted me foure dayes, and furnish’t me with necessary provision for my voyage to Creta. And also transported me by sea in a Brigandine freely, and on their owne charges to Serigo, being 44. miles distant.

After my redounded thankes, they having returned, the contemplation on their courtesies, brought me in rememberance, how curious the old Athenians were to heare of forraine newes, & with what great regard & estimation they honoured travellers, of which as yet, they are no wayes defective.

Serigo.Serigo is an Iland in the sea Cretico: It was aunciently called Cytherea, of Cithero the sonne of PhÆnise: And of Aristotle Porphyris, or Schotera, in respect of the fine Marble that is got there: It is of circuit threescore miles having but one Castle called Capsallo, which is kept by a Venetian Captaine: here it is sayd that Venus did first inhabit, and I saw the ruines of her demolished Temple, on the side of a mountaine yet extant.

A little more downeward below this old adored Temple [II. 76.]of Venus, are the relickes of that Palace, wherein Menalaus did dwell, who was King of Sparta, and Lord of this Ile. The Greekes of the Ile told me there were wild Asses there, who had a stone in their heads, which was a soveraigne remedy for the Falling sicknesse, and good to make a woman be quickly delivered of her birth. I made afterward deeper enquiry for it, to have either seene or bought it, but for my life I could never attaine to any perfect knowledge thereof.

In the time of my abode, at the Village of Capsalo (being a haven for small barkes, and situate below the Castle) the Captaine of that same Fortresse A Priest slaine in a Bordell.kild a Seminary Priest, whom he had found in the night with his whoore in a Brothel-house: for the which sacrilegious murther, the Governour of the Ile deposed the Captaine, and banished him, causing a boate to be prepared to send him to Creta. O! if all the Priests which doe commit incest, adultery, and fornication (yea, and worse, Il peccato carnale contra natura) were thus handled and severely rewarded; what a sea of Sodomiticall irreligious blood would overflow the halfe of Europe, to staine the spotted colour of that Romane Beast. Truely, and yet more, these lascivious Friars are the very Epicures, or off-scourings of the earth; for how oft have I heard them say one to another? Allegre, allegre, mio caro fratello, chi ben mangia, ben beve, &c. That is, Be cheerefull, be cheerefull, deare brother, he that eateth well, drinketh well, he that drinketh well, sleepeth well, he that sleepeth well, sinneth not, and he that sinneth not, goeth straight through Purgatory to Paradize. This is all the care of their living, making their tongues to utter what their hearts do thus prophanely thinke, Ede, bibe, dormi, post mortem nulla voluptas, and as it is well observed of this monachall and licentious life:

In the aforesayd boat I also imbarked with the Captaine, and sailed by the little Isoletta of Serigota: Leaving Capo di Spada on our left hand, we arrived at Carabusa with extreme fortune, being fiercely persued by three Turkish Galleots. Betweene Serigo and Carabusa we had seven score and twelve miles of dangerous and combustious seas.