Departing from Saleack, and having past one of their courses, which is our twelve miles, wee reincountred with infinite Villages on both hands, and in our high Way; all builded upon artificiall Channels [VII. 301.]drawne from Nylus; and these Fabrickes, onely made up of Wood or Bricke, being one or two Stories high. The Captaine, in diverse parts at our mid-dayes reposing, was constrayned to buy water from the Egyptians, to satisfie the Company: yea, and that same night, the first of foure, or we came to Cayre, at the Village of Bianstare, he payed five Sultans of gold for Watering all us and the Beasts, amounting to thirty five shillings sterling.

The next day journying towards a goodly Towne, named Saliabsteck, we travailed through a fruitful planure, fraught full of fruite Trees, and abounding in Wheate, Two seasons of riping graine in Egypt.Rye, and Barley, being new cut downe, May 14. For this was their first Harvest, the Land yeelding twice a yeare Cornes; and the latter, is in our December recoiled. This Land hath as it were a continuall Summer, and notwithstanding of the burning heate, it produceth alwayes abundance of Fruites and Hearbes for all the Seasons of the yeare: So that the whole Kingdome is but a Garden, having ever one Fruite ready to be plucked downe, and another comming forwards; or like to the best sort of Lemmon Trees, that as some Reape, some are growing greene, others budding forth, and some still in the floorish: Even so is the beauty and fertility of all the lower Ægypt; which although the Country be not often troubled with Raine, yet the rank serene or dew of the night, in the Summer, refresheth all kindes of growing things: betweene Saliabsteck, and Cayre, being two dayes journey: We Francks, bad farwell to water, and drunke daily of Coffa, made of a seed Coave, which being taken hot, and is ever kept boyling within Fornaces in earthen pots, it expelleth the crudity of fruites and hearbes so much there frequented.

Arriving at last in this little World, the great Cairo, [VII. 302.]and bidding farewell to our Caravan, the three Germanes and I, lodged with one Signior Marco Antonio, a Consul, there for Venice; the other foure French men, going to their owne Consul, a Marseilian borne and there stayed. Here with this Venetian for three dayes, the Dutch men and I had great cheare, but they far greater a dayly swallowing downe of strong Cyprus Wine, without mixture of water; which still I intreated them to forbeare, but they would not be requested. The season being cruell hot, and their stomacks surfeited with burning wine, upon the fourth day long or noone, The last three Germanes death in Cayre.the three Dutch men were all dead; and yet me thought they had no sicknesse, the red of their faces staying pleasant, their eyes staring alwayes on mine, and their tongues were perfit even to the last of their breath.

He who dyed last, and lived longest, was William Dierganck, who left me all his owne gold, and what the former five had left him: delivering me the keyes of their three Clogbags before the Consul, declared by his mouth that he left me absolute heire to intromet with all, and whatsoever they had there: But eftsoones the treacherous Consul, knowing that I was a stranger to them, and by accident met together at Jerusalem, and that they were Gentlemen, and well provided with gold, forgd a reason to himselfe and for his owne benefit, that he would meddle with all they left behind them, under this excuse, that he would be answerable to their friends for it, at his returne to Venice: Well, I am left to bury them, and with great difficulty bought one grave for them all three in a Copties Chappell, where I interred them: paying to the Ægyptian Christians for that eight foote of ground, ten Sultans of gold, besides sixe Piasters for carrying their corps hither, [VII. 303.]being two miles in the City distant from the Consuls house. Whence, ere I had returned, the Venetian Factor seased upon all, and shuting his gate upon my face, sent me out my owne budget: Whereupon I addressed my selfe to the French Consul, Monsieur Beauclair, who kindly received me, and having told him all the manner, how I was greatly wronged & oppressed by the other Consul; he straight sent for a Jewish Phisitian, his familiar Oracle: Where having consulted together, the next day earely we went all three, and their followers to the Beglerbeg, or governour of the City: we soone complained, and were as soone heard: the Venetian Consul is sent for, and he commeth: where facing the Judge and A favourable Turkish judgement.pleading both our best, (for there are no Lawyers in Turky every man speaking for him selfe) the Bassaw with his Counsell upon sight of the keyes of their Clogbags in my hands, and my narration thereupon (and notwithstanding favouring the Factor) immediatly determined that I should have the two part of their moneyes, with all their Jerusalem relicts, and Turkish cloathes, and the Venetian to have the former third part. It is done, and irrevocable, upon which the Jewish Doctor, and I, with two Janizaries came to mine adversaries house; where I giving the Jew the keyes, the Clogbags were opened, and the money being told, it came just to 1424. Chickens of gold, besides certaine rings & tablets: The Jew delivered me my part, which came to 942. Chickens, the rest went to the inconscionable Consul, with the halfe of the rings & tablets: And packing up all the relicts, moneyes, clothes, and Clogbags, I hired a Mule, and brought them along with me to the French Factors house. Where, when come, Monsieur Beauclair, and my fellow Pilgrimes, were very glad that I had sped so well, none of us all knowing what was in the Clogbags till they were sighted; & giving hearty thanks to the Consul, and ten peeces of gold to the [VII. 304.]Jew and Janizaries, I sup’d, and reposed till the morrow, thanking God of my good fortune: Yet was I exceeding sorrowfull for the losse of these gallant Gentle-men, Religiously disposed, and so affable, that for familiarity and kindnesse, they were the mirrours of noble mindes, and vertuous spectacles of humanity; whose Deaths were to mee a Hell, and whose lives had beene my Paradice on earth. To whose memory and prayse, I am not able to Congratulate the least Commendation, their Heroicke dispositions, deserved at my hands.

But what shall I say, their time was come, which mortality might sorrow, but sorrow might not prevent Death, whose power is deafe to all humane lamentations. Neyther will I relye so much upon my owne worthinesse, as to thinke that benefite of the procrastination of my Gods provident mercies.Life, was by any merite of mine deserved, but that God so much the more, might show his incomprehensible goodnesse in delivering me, from the violence of such unexpected accidents, and to tye my soule to be thankfull for his mercies. For all the beginnings of man are derived from God, whose ends are eyther perfited, or disanulled by his Determination: and nothing we possesse is properly our owne, or gotten by our owne power, but given us onely through his goodnesse and munificence.

And all the spaces of earth which our feet tread over, the Light we enjoy, and the excellent faculties wee are indued withall; or what we can do, say, or thinke, is onely raised, guided, and distributed, by Gods impenetrable Counsell, Will, and Providence: Which although the pride of our wicked nature doth not yeeld the true attribution thereunto; yet the powerfull working of the counsell [VII. 305.]of God is such, that in it selfe, it proveth an eternall wisdome, and confoundeth the foolishnesse of the world.

The great City of Grand Cayre.This incorporate World of Grand Cairo, is the most admirable and greatest City, seene upon the earth, being thrice as large of bounds as Constantinople, and likewise so populous, but not so well builded, being situate in a pleasant Plaine, and in the heart of Ægypt, kissing Nylus at some parts.

The City is divided in five Townes, first and formost, Cairo novo, the new Caire, which is the principall & chiefest place of all the other, lying in midst of the rest, having walles and Ports, the circuit whereof is 22. miles, contayning al the chiefe merchandise and market places within it.

The second is Cairo Vecchio, the old Caire, called formerly Cairo de Babylonia or Babylon Ægyptiorum: for there were two Babylons, one in Assiria called now by the Turkes Bagdat, and the other is this that joyneth with the new Caire: It was also aunciently called Memphis, and was the furthest place that Ulysses in his travels visited, so well memorized by Homer: yet a voyage of no such estimation, as that princely Poet accounted it; for his travels were not answerable, to the fifteene part of mine.

The third Towne is Medin, joyning to the backe side of the old Caire, toward the Piramides: The fourth is Boulak, running a great length downe along and neare the River side, having three market places of no small account: The fift and last, is the great Towne of Caraffar, bending Southward, in the way of the red Sea for many miles: All which are but as Suburbs to the new Caire, that of many smalles make up a Countrey, rather then a [VII. 306.]City: And yet all of them are contiguat one with another, either to the left or right hand, or to them both, with innumerable streets: The length of great Cayre and the bounds thereof.The length whereof in all, from the lowest end of Boulak, to the South-most part of Caraffar is by my deepe experience twenty eight English miles, and fourteene in breadth; for tryall whereof I troad it one day on foote from Sun to Sunne, being guided and guarded with a riding Janizarie, which for my bruised feete on the streets, was one of the sorest dayes journey that ever I had in my life.

The principall gates of new Caire are Babell Mamstek looking toward the Wildernesse and the Red Sea: Bebzavillah toward Nylus, and Babell Eutuch toward the fields: The streets are narrow, being all of them almost covered to save them from the parching heate with open vents for light; and their buildings commonly are two stories high, composed either of mudde or bricke, and platforme on the tops; whereon usually in the night they use to sleepe to imbrace the fresh & cooling ayre. Their Bazar or exchange, beginneth at the gate of Mamsteck, and endeth at a place called Babeso.

At the corners of chiefe streets or market places, there are divers horses standing ready sadled and bridled, that for a small matter, or according to the way, a man may hire and ride so where he will, either to negotiat, or to view this spacious spred City, and change as many horses as he listeth, having the Maisters which owe them to convoy them for lesse or longer way, which is a great ease to weary passengers.

There is a great commerce here with exceeding many nations, for by their concurring hither, it is wonderfully peopled with infinite numbers: for the Countrey [VII. 307.]aboundeth in Silkes, Cornes, Fruits, Waxe, Honey, and the soveraigne Balsamo good for all sores, besides many other commodities of Cotten-wooll, rich Stuffes of cloth of gold and silver, and the best Sattins, Damas, Taffaties, and Grograines that are made in the world are here.

The infinite populositie of which place, and the extreame heate, is the cause why the pest is evermore in the City: insomuch, that at some certaine times, ten thousand persons have dyed in one day: Nay, the City is reputed to be in good health, if there dye but one, or two thousand in a day, or three hundred thousand in a whole yeare, I meane, when the soare encroaching pestilence, which every third yeare useth to visite them, is rife here.

Divers nations residing in Cayre.In this Towne a Traveller may ever happily finde all these sorts of Christianes, Italians, French, Greekes, Chelfaines, Georgians, Æthiopians, Jacobines, Syrians, Armenians, Nicolaitans, Abassines, Cypriots, Slavonians, captivat Maltezes, Sicilians, Albaneses, and high Hungarians, Ragusans, and their owne Ægyptian Copties; the number of which is thought to be beyond two hundred thousand people: besides the infinite number of Infidels, whose sorts are these, Turkes, tawny Moores, white Moores, blacke Moores, or Nigroes, Musilmans, Tartars, Persians, Indians, Sabuncks, Berdoanes, Jewes, Arabians, Barbares, and Tingitanian Sarazens. All which are Mahometans, and Idolatrous Pagans.

From the great Palatiat Mansion, where the Begler-Beg, or Vicegerent hath his residence, being builded on a moderate height; a man may have the full prospect of the better part of the Towne, the gardens and Villages [VII. 308.]bordering on Nylus, and a great part of the lower plaines of Ægypt. Their Lawes heere and Heathnish Religion, are Turkish and Mahometanicall, and the Customes and Manners of the people, are like unto their birth and breeding, beastly and Barbarous; being great Sodomites, and Diabolically given to all sorts of abhominations.

The better sort of Women here, and all the Kingdom The Egyptian decorements.over, weare Rings of gold or silver, through the hollow of their noses, both endes of their mouthes, and in their under lips; hanging rich pearles, and precious stones to them; wearing also about their armes faire Bracelets, and about their ancles below, broad bonds of gold or silver. To which if the baser sort can not attayne unto, then they counterfeit their Betters, with Rings, Bracelets, and bonds of Brasse, Copper, Lead, and white Iron, and thinke themselves not worthy to live, unlesse they weare these badges.

They also use here, as commonly they do through all Turkey, the Women to pisse standing, and the men to coure low on their knees, doing the like. They weare here linnen breeches and Leather bootes as the men do, and if it were not for their covered faces, and longer gownes, wee would hardly know the one from the other. The Egyptian Christians.As for the Religion of the Copties or Ægyptian Christians, they are Circumcised, after the Judaicall manner, but not after the eight day, but the eight yeare. And it is thought, they follow the Religion of Eutyches, holding but one nature in Christ: which was defended by Dioscorus and the Counsell of Ephesus, in regard of Eutyches. But the Copties them selves say, they have their Religion from Prester Jehan, and so it is most manifest, being no difference betweene the one and the other.

[VII. 309.]They make frequently at all meetings the signe of the Crosse to other, thwarting their two foremost fingers, lay them on their brow, and then on their breasts, and kissing them, the salutation is done.

The Copties Religion.They will not suffer no Images, nor Pictures to be in their Churches, and yet they have an Altar, and a kinde of Masse, sayd in their owne Language, sacrificing the Ostia, for the reall Body and Blood of Christ: Yet they deny Purgatory, the invocation of Saints, and Prayers for the Dead, &c. Neverthelesse auricular Confession is commonly used among them: so do the Greekes in all these poynts the like, and all the people Orientall.

The Inhabitants here, were the first Inventors of the Mathematicall Sciences, of Letters, and of the use of Writing: Great Magicians and Astrologians, and are yet The nature of the Egyptian Moores.indued with a speciall dexterity of Wit; but somewhat sloathfull, and given to Ryot and Luxury: Merry also, great Singers, and sociable Companions; and no wonder, the Land being so plentifull, and their nature libidinous, it increaseth both their insolence, and inordinate affections. Neyther doe they live long, in regard of the great heate they indure. Ægypt being placed betweene the two Tropickes, under the Torrid Zone, bringeth to passe, that seldome will any there attayne to threescore yeares of age.

In all this Land of Ægypt, which is a great Kingdome, there is no running Well or Fountayne, save onely the River Nylus: Neyther do the Inhabitants scarcely know what Raine is, because they seldome see any, and if by rare accident, a Cloud happen to dissolve upon them, it bringeth to their bodies innumerable soares and diseases. And yet for abundance of Cornes, and all kind of fruites the Earth yeeldeth, there is no Country can brag with [VII. 310.]Ægypt; whereupon it was called in the time of the Romanes, as well as Sicilia, Horreum populi Romani. And notwithstanding this Kingdome produceth no Wines, neyther is garnished with Vineyards, but that which strangers make use of are brought from Candy, Cyprus, and Greece. The defect being thus, these Mahometanicall Moores observing strictly the Law of their Alcoran, wil neyther plant wines, nor suffer any to be planted, accounting it a deadly sin to drinke Wine, but for Coffa, and Sherpet, composed Liquors, they drinke enough of.

The Garden of Balsamo.As for their Balsamo, the Garden wherein it groweth, lyeth neere to the South-side of Cayre, and inclosed with a high Wall, being sixe miles in compasse, and daily guarded by Turkes. To which when I came, being Conducted with a Janizary, they would not suffer me to enter, neyther any Christian, & far lesse the Jewes: For not long ago, they were the cause, that almost this Balme was brought to confusion; they having the custody of it for certayne yeares.

The Tree it selfe is but of three foote height, which keepeth evermore the colour greene, having a broad three poynted leafe, which being thrice in the yeare incised in the body and branches; it yeeldeth a red Water that droppeth downe in earthen Vessels, which is the naturall Balsamo.

And not far from this Garden, in a sandy Desart, is the place called Mommeis, which are innumerable Caves cut foorth of a Rocke, whereunto the Corpes of the most men in Cayro, are carried and interred. Which dead bodies remayne alwayes unputrified, neyther yeeld they a stinking smell: Whereof experiments are plentiful at this day, by the whole Bodies, Hands, or other parts, which by Merchants are now brought from thence, and [VII. 311.]doth make the Mummia which Apothecaries use: The colour being very blacke, and the flesh clung unto the bones.

Now having viewed, and review’d this Microcosmus of the greater World, the foure French Pilgrimes and I, did The pyramides of Egypt.hire a Janizary to conduct us to the great Pyramides, surnamed the Worlds wonders; which are distant from Cayre about foure Leagues, standing beside or neare to the bankes of Nylus: Where, when come, I beheld their proportion to bee Quadrangled, growing smaller and smaller to the toppe, and builded with huge and large stones, the most part whereof, are five foote broade, or there abouts, and nine in length, beeing of pure Marble.

All the Historians that ever wrot of these Wonders, have not so amply Recited their admirable greatnesse, as the experience of the Beholder, may testifie their excessive greatnesse and height. The first and East-most we approached unto, is highest, and by our Dragomans skilfull Report, amounted to eleven hundred and twenty sixe foote. The Basis, or bottome whereof, being twelve hundred paces in Circuite, allowing every square of the foure faces three hundred paces, and every pace two foote and a halfe. Every Pyramide, having outwardly to ascend upon (though now for the most part demolished) three hundred foure score and nine steps or degrees; each degree being three foote high, and two foote and a halfe broad. By which computation, they amount in height to the afore-sayde Relation, allowing to every foote, twelve inches. At last having ascended upon the South side of this greatest Pyramide to the top, and that with great difficulty, because of the broken degrees here and there: [VII. 312.]I was much ravished, to see such a large foure squared plat-forme, all of one intyre stone, which covered the head; each square extending to seaventeene foote of my measure.

It is yet a great marvaile to me, by what Engine, they could bring it up so safe to such a hight: But as I conceive it, they behoved certaynely still to rayse it, and take it with them, as they advanced the Worke, otherwise the Wit nor power of man, could never have done it. Truely the more I beheld this strange Worke, the more I was stricken in admiration: For before wee ascended, or came neare to this Pyramide, the toppe of it seemed as sharpe as a poynted Dyamond; but when we were mounted thereon, we found it so large, that in my opinion, it would have contayned a hundred men.

The greatest piramide of the three.In the bottome whereof we found a great Cell, and within that through a straight and narrow passage, a foure angled Roome; wherein there was standing the Relickes of a huge and auncient Toombe, where belike hee that was the first Founder of this Pyramide was inclosed. From the top of this Pyramide, our Jannizary did shoote an Arrow in the ayre with all his force, thinking thereby it should have fallen to the ground; but as we discended downe-wards, we found the Arrow lying uppon the steps, scarse halfe way to the ground: From this, wee came to the middle Pyramide, which a far off looked somewhat higher then the other two, but when we came to the roote thereof, wee found it not so, for the stone-worke is a great deale lower, but the advancement of the height, is onely because of a high ground whereon it standeth.

It is of the same fashion of the first, but hath no degrees to ascend upon, neyther hath the third Pyramide any at [VII. 313.]all; being by antiquity of time, all worne and demolished, yet an admirable worke, to behold such Masses, and (as it were) erected Mountaines all of fine Marble. The reason why they were first founded, is by many ancient Authors so diversly conjectured, that I will not meddle therewith. They were first called Pharaones.

Yet the first and greatest is said to have beene builded by Cheops, who in this worke imployed 100000. men, The charges of the greatest pyramide.the space of twenty yeares: In which time, the charges of Garlick, Rootes, and Onions onely, came to 1600. talents of silver; the Basis whereof in circuit, was sixty Acres of ground. It is recorded by Josephus, and conjectured by many good witnesses, that the Bricks which the Children of Israel were inforced to make, were partly imployed about the insides of these Piramides, whose outsides were adorned with Marble; neither can I forget the drift of that effeminate Cheops, who in end wanting money did prostitute his daughter to all commers, by which detestable meanes he finished his building, and shee besides the money due unto her unnaturall Father, desired for her selfe of every man that had the use of her body one stone, of whom she got so many, that with them she builded the second Piramide, almost equall to the first. Besides these three huge ones, there are a number of smaller, whereof some were transported to Rome in the time of her supreame domination.

Betweene the biggest Pyramide, and Nylus, I saw a Colosse, or head of an Idoll, of a wonderfull greatnesse; being all of one Marble stone, erected on a round Rock: It is of height (not reckoning the Columne) above 815. foote, and of circuite, 68. Pliny gave it the name Sphingo, and reported much more of the bignesse, largenesse, and length of it: but howsoever he erred in his description, yet I resolve my selfe, it is of so great a [VII. 314.]quantity, that the like thereof (being one intire peece) the world affoordeth not, and may be reckoned amongst the rarest wonders: Some say, that aunciently it was an Oracle, the which so soone as the Sunne set, would give an answere to the Egyptians, of any thing by them demanded.

In our way as we returned, our Dragoman shewed us (on the banke of Nylus) where a Crocodile was killed the yeare before, by the ingenious policy of a Venetian Merchant, being licentiated by the Bassaw. The match whereof for bignesse and length, was never seene in that River, whose body was twenty two foote long, and in compasse of the shoulders, eight foote, who thus was slaine: This beast for foure yeares together kept alwaies about one place of the River, being seven miles above Cayre; where for a mile of ground, there was no tillage nor pastorage, being for feare of him layd wast: and neverthelesse he had devoured above forty sixe persons: his custome was to come forth of the River every morning, about our eight houres; where here and there he would lurke waiting for his prey till ten, for longer from water he could not stay.

A resolute Venetian Merchant.This Venetian leaving his ship at Alexandria, and comming to Cayre, was informed by the Consul my adversary of the great spoyle done by this beast: and herewith generously he undertooke to kill it, the Vicegerent licentiating him: Whereupon going to his ship, fetched thence his Gunner, and a peece of Ordonance to Cayre.

The next day in the afternoone, hee being well horsed, and accompanied with twenty Janizaries, the peece is carried to the Crocodiles accustomary place, of forthcomming: where straight there was an Asse slaine, and [VII. 315.]hung up on two standing and a thwarting tree, with his open belly to the flood, and some twelve scorepaces therefrom: Behinde this carkasse, about other twelve score, the piece was planted, and levelld at the Carrion, being charged with cut iron; and a traine of powder about the touch-hole, and above it a night-house to keepe the trayne dry from the nights serene: having a cock fastned thereto, and in it a burning match, to which a string was tyed: Then forty paces behinde the piece, was there a pit digged to hide the Gunner; wherein he was put, holding the strings end in his hand, and his head vayled with a wooden covert.

After this, and about mid-night, the Horse-men retired themselves two miles off: The morning come, and the convenient time: the Crocodile courts the land: where when he saw the carkasse, came grumbling to it, and setting his two foremost feet on the Carrions middle, begun to make good cheare of the intrales: whereat the squink-eyed Gunner perceiving his time, drew the string, The killing of a great Crocodile.and giving fire, off went the piece, and shot the Crocodile in three parts: well, he is deadly wounded, and making a horrible noyse, the Gunner lay denned, and durst not stirre: meanewhile the beast striving to recover the water, tyred, and lying close on his belly there he dyed.

After the shot, the Horse-men drew neare, and finding the beast slaine, relieved the Gunner, and brought with them this monstruous creature to Cayre; where now his skinne hangeth in the Consuls Hall, which I saw during my stay in his house. For this piece of service, the Merchant was greatly applauded, & scorned to take from the City 500. Sultans of gold as a reward for his paines, which they freely offered him, and he as freely refused.

[VII. 316.]Now to discourse of Nylus, this flood irriguateth all the low playnes of the Land, once in the yeare, which inundation, beginneth usually in the latter end of July; and continueth to the end of August: Which furnisheth with Water all the Inhabitants; being the onely drinke of the vulgar Ægyptians; and of such vertue, that when Pescennius Niger saw his Souldiers grumble for Wine, What (sayth hee) doe you grumble for Wine, having the Water of Nylus to drinke. And now because many schollers, and learned men, are meerely mistaken about The true knowledge of the flowing of Nylus.the flowing of Nylus, I will both show the manner and quality or cause of its inundation, and thus. There is a drye pond called Machash digged neare unto the brinke of the River, in midst whereof standeth a pillar of eighteene Cubites height, being equall with the profundity of the Ditch, whereby they know his increasing: and in the yeare following if they shal have plenty or scarcity of things.

Now betweene the River and this pond, there are sixe passages or spouts digged through the Banke; where when the River beginneth to swell, it immediately fals downe through the lowest passage into the pond, and being discovered there comes forth of Cayre, certayne of the Priests called Darvishes, accompanied with a hundred Janizaries, and pitch their Tents round about this Quadrangled pit. In all which time of the Inundation, they make great Feastings, rare Solemnities, with Dancing, Singing, toucking of kettle Drummes, sounding of Trumpets, and other ostentations of joy.

Now as the Water groweth in the River, and so from it debording, so it groweth also upon the Pillar standing in this pond, which pillar is marked from the roote to [VII. 317.]the top, with Brasses, handfuls, a foote, a span, and an inch: And so if it shall happen that the water rise but to ten Brasses, it presageth the yeare following there shal be great Dearth, Pestilence, and famine. And if it amounteth to twelve Cubites, then the sequell yeare shal be indifferent. And if it swell to fifteene Brasses, then the next yeare shal be copious and abundant in all things: And if it shall happen to flow to the top, eighteen Brasses, then all the Country of Ægypt, is in danger to be drowned and destroyed.

Many Schollers mistaken about Nylus.Now from the body of Nylus, there are above three thousand Channels drawne through the playne, on which passing Ditches, are all the Bourges and Townes builded; and through which Channels the River spreads it selfe through all the Kingdome: Which when scoured, of filth and Wormes, and the water become cleare, then every House openeth their Cisterne window, and receiveth as much water, as is able to suffice them till the next Inundation: Neyther doth ever the River flow any where above the Bankes, for if it should, it would overwhelme the whole Kingdome.

All which Channels here or there, do make intercourse for their streames agayne, to the body and branches of Nylus. Now Stoicall fooles hold the opinion, that it overfloweth the whole face of the Land, then I pray you, what would become of their Houses, their Bestiall, their Cornes and fruites? for the nature of violent streames, do ever deface, transplant, and destroy all that they debord upon, leaving slime, mood, and Sand behind their breaches, and therefore such inunding can not be called cherishings.

There are infinite venemous Creatures bred in this river, as Crocadiles, Scorpions, Water-Snakes, grievous mis-shapen [VII. 318.]Wormes, and other Monstrous things, which oft annoy the Inhabitants, and these who Trafficke on the Water. This famous flood is in length almost three thousand miles, and hath his beginning under the Æquinoctiall Line, from montes LunÆ, but more truly from the Zembrian Lake in Æthyopia interior, whence it bringeth the full growth downe into Ægypt, and in a place of the exterior Æthiopian Alpes called Catadupa: The fall and roaring of Nyle, maketh the people deafe that dwell neere to it.

The reason of the flowing of Nylus.The infallible reason, why Nylus increaseth so every yeare, at such a time and continuance, is onely this; that when the Sunne declining Northward to Cancer, and warming with his vigorous face, the Septentrion sides of these Cynthian mountaynes, the abundant Snow melteth: from whence dissolving in streames, to the Lake Zembria, it ingorgeth Nylus so long as the matter delabiates: For benefit of which River, the great Turke is inforced, to pay yearely the tribute of fifty thousand Sultans of gold to Prester Jehan, least he impede and withdraw the course of Nylus to the Red Sea, and so bring Ægypt to desolation: The ground and policy whereof, begunne upon a desperate Warre inflicted upon the Æthiopians by Amurath, which hee was constrayned to give over, under this pact, and for Nylus sake.

The River Nyle had many names, for Diodore named it Actos, to wit, Eagle, because of its swift passing over the Catadupian heights: It was called too, Ægyptus, of a King so named, that communicated the same to it, and to the Countrey.

Festus, sayth it was called Melos, and Plutarch tearmed it Mela: Epiphanio called it Chrysoroas, that is, running, or coulant in gold. The Holy Scripture tearmeth it Seor [VII. 319.]or Sihor, to wit, Trouble, because of the great noyse it bringeth with it to Ægypt; and the same Holy Letters call it Gehou, and Physon. The Ægyptians wont to name it Nospra; and now presently the Abassines, and Inhabitants of Ægypt, name it Abanhu, to wit, the River of a long course.

The Ile of Delta.This River maketh the Ile of Delta in Ægypt; so likewise in Æthiopia, that Ile of Meroa so renowned. The ancient Authors, could not agree, touching the mouthes of Nylus; for Melo, Strabo, Diodore, and Heredotus place seaven; Ptolomy, and others nine; and Pliny eleaven. And some moderne Authors affirme it hath onely foure, as Tyrre and Behou alleadge, dividing it selfe two leagues below Cayre in foure branches, the chiefest two whereof, are these of Damiota and Roseta, but that is false, and so are the opinions of all the rest, for it hath now eight severall mouthes, and as many branches drawne from its mayne body.

The Water of Nyle is marvailous sweete, above all others in the World, and that proceedeth of the extreame vigour of the Sunne, beating continually upon, it maketh it become more Lighter, Purer, and Simple; as likewise arrousing of so many Soyles, and his long Course.

And truely it is admirable, to see this River to grow great, when all others grow small; and to see it diminish, when others grow great. So alwayes it is no wonder, that the nature of this River should so increase, when even here, and at home, the river of Rhone, hath the like intercourse: and at the same time, through the Towne of Geneve, and so to the Mediterranean Sea: Their beginnings being both alike; from the impetuosity of raynes, and dissolvings of Snow.

[VII. 320.]Ægypt was first inhabited by Misraim, the Sonne of Chus from whom the Arabians name the land Misre, in the Hebrew tongue MisroiÆ. It was also named Oceana, from Oceanus the second King hereof. Thirdly, Osiriana from Osiris; and now Ægyptus from Ægyptus the surname of Rameses, once a King of great puissance. The confines of Egypt.It bordereth with Æthiopia, and the Confines of Nubia: on the South. On the North with the sea Mediterrene: The chiefest ports whereof, are Damieta, and Alexandria, towards the occident, it joyneth with the great Lake Bouchiarah, and a daungerous Wildernesse confining therewith, supposed to be a part of Cyrene; so full of wilde and venemous beasts, which maketh the West part unaccessable: And on the East, with the Istmus, and Confine of Desartuous Arabia, and a part of the Red Sea, through which the people of Israel passed.

This Country was governed by Kings first, and longest of all other Nations: From Osiris (not reckoning his Regall Ancestors) in whose time Abraham went downe to Ægypt, he and his Successours, were all called Pharaoes; of whom Amasis, is onely worthy mention, who instituted such politicke Lawes to the auncient Egyptians, that he deserveth to be Catalogized, as founder or this Kingdome.

This Race continued till Cambises the second Persian Monarch, made Ægypt a member of his Empire: and so remayned till Darius Nothus the sixt Persian King: from whom they Revolted, choosing Kings of themselves. But in the eighteene yeare of Nectanebos the seventh King thereafter, Ægypt was recovered by Ochus, the eight Emperour of Persia.

In end Darius being vanquished, and Alexander King hereof, after his Death it fell to the share of Ptolomeus, the sonne of Lagi, from whom the Kings of Ægypt were [VII. 321.]for a long time called Ptolomeis: of whom Queene Cleopatra was the last, after whose selfe murther, it was annexed for many yeares to the Romane Empire, and next to the Constantinopolitan: from whose insupportable burden they revolted, and became tributaries for a small time to Haumar the third Caliph of Babylon.

Afterward being oppressed by Almericus King of Jerusalem; Noradin a Turkish King of Damascus sent Saracon a valiant Warriour to aide them, who made him The alterations of Egypt.selfe absolute King of the whole Countrey; whose ofspring succeeded (of whom Saladine was one, the glorious conquerour of the East) till Melechsala, who was slaine by his owne souldiers the Mamaluks; who were the guard of the Suldans, as the Jannizaries are to the great Turke, who lately, Anno 1622. have almost made the like mutation in the Turkish Empire, as the Mamaluks did in the Ægyptian.

They made of themselves Sultans, whereby the Mamaluke race continued from the yeare 1250. till the yeare 1517. wherein Tonembius, together with his predecessour Campson Gaurus, was overcome by Selimus the first; by whom Ægypt was made a Province of the Turkish Empire, and so continueth as yet.

The length of this Kingdome, is foure hundred and fifty English miles, and two hundred broad: the principal seat whereof is the great Caire, being distant from Jerusalem sixteene dayes journey, or Caravans journalls, amounting to 240. of our miles. Some hold that the space of earth, that lyeth betweene the two branches of Damieta, and Roseta was called the lower Ægypt; now called Delta under the figure of a Greeke letter triangular.

The head of this great Delta, where Nylus divideth it selfe was called Heptapolis, or Hoptanomia; and Delta [VII. 322.]it selfe was called by the Romanes Augustamia: Ægypt besides the aforesayd names, it had divers Epithites of divers Authors; for Appollodorus tearmed it the Religion of Melampodes, because of the fertility of it: And Plutarch gave it the name Chimia, because of the holy ceremonies of the Ægyptians in worshipping their Gods: The Etymology whereof Ortelius condignely remarked, deriving it from Cham, the sonne of Noah, so that some hold the opinion, that the Ægyptians had their originall from Misraim (for so was Ægypt called) the sonne of Chus, that proceeded from Cham Noahs sonne: The circuit of Delta or the lower Ægypt is thought to be 3000. of their stades, which maketh a hundred Spanish leagues.

The revenews of Egypt.In the time of the Ptolomeis the revenewes of this Kingdome were 12000. talents; so also in the time of the Mamaluks; but now through tyranical government, and discontinuance of trafficke through the red sea, the Turke receiveth no more than three millions yearely; one of the which is free to him selfe, the other two are distributed to support the charge of his Vicegerent Bassaw, and presidiary souldiers, being 12000. Jannizaries, besides their thousands of Timariots, which keepe Ægypt from the incursions and tyranny of Arabs: In Cayro I stayed twelve dayes, and having bid farewell to Monsieur Beauclair the Consul who courteously intertained me, the other foure French Pilgrimes and I imbarked at Boulacque in a boate: And as we went downe the River, the chiefe Townes of note we saw were these, Salmona, Pharsone, Fova, & Abdan. I remember our boate was double hooked with forked pikes of iron round about the sides, for feare of the Crocodiles, who usually leape up on boates, and will carry the passenger away headlong in the streame: And yet these beasts themselves are devoured by a water-Rat, of [VII. 323.]whom they taking great pleasure, and play, and gaping widely, the Rat running into his mouth, the other out of joy swalloweth it down, where the Rat for disdaine commeth forth at the broad side of his belly leaving the Crocodile dead. In these parts there is a stone called Aquiline, which hath the vertue to deliver a woman from her paine in child-birth. In all this way the greatest pleasure I had, was to behold the rare beauty of certaine Birds, called by the Turkes, Ellock; whose feathers being beautified with the diversity of rarest colours, yeeld a farre off to the beholder a delectable shew: having also this propriety, the nearer a man approacheth them, the more they loose the beauty of their feathers by reason of the feare they conceive when they see a man. Upon the third day we landed at Rosetta, and came over land with a company of Turkes to Alexandria, being 50. miles distant.

The Towne of Alexandria.Alexandria is the second Port in all Turky: It was of old a most renowned City, and was built by Alexander the great, but now is greatly decayed, as may appeare by the huge ruines therein: It hath two havens, the one whereof is strongly fortified with two Castles, which defend both it selfe and also Porto vecchio: The fields about the Towne are sandy, which ingender an infectious ayre, especially in the moneth of August, and is the reason why strangers fall into bloody fluxes and other heavy sicknesses. In my staying here, I was advised by a Ragusan Consul, to keepe my stomacke hot, to abstaine from eating of fruit, and to live soberly, with a temperate diet: The rule of which government, I strove diligently to observe, so did I also in all my travells prosecute the like course of a small diet, and was often too small against my will, by the meanes whereof (praised be God) I fell never sicke till my returne to France.

[VII. 324.]This Citty is mightily impoverished since the Trading of Spices that were brought through the red Sea, to Ægypt, and so over Land to Alexandria & its Sea-port: Whence the Venetian dispersed them over all Christendome; but are now brought home by the backe-side of Affricke, by the Portugals, English, and Flemings, which maketh both Venice, and Alexandria fare the worse, for want of their former Trafficke, and commerce in these Southerne parts: whence Venice grew the mother nurse to all Europe for these Commodities, but now altogether spoyled thereof, and decayed by our Westerne Adventures, in a longer course for these Indian soyles.

This Citty was a place of great Merchandize, and in the Nycen Councell was ordayned to be one of The foure Patriarchall Seas.the foure Patriarchall seas; the other three are Antiochia, Jerusalem, and Constantinople. Heere in Alexandria was that famous Library which Ptolomeus Philadelphus filled with 700000. volumes: It was he that also caused the 72. Interpreters, to translate the Bible: Over against Alexandria, is the little Ile Pharos, in the which for the commodity of Saylers the aforesaid King builded a watch-towre of white Marble; being of so marvellous a height, that it was accounted one of the seven wonders of the world: the other six, being the Pyramides, the Tombe Mausolaea, which Helicarnassus Queene of Caria caused build in honour of her Husband: the Temple of Ephesus, the Wals of Babylon, the Colossus of Rhodes, and the Statue of Jupiter Olympicus at Elis in Greece, which was made by Phidias, an excellent worke-master in Gold and Ivory, being in height 60. Cubites.

Expecting fifteene dayes heere in Alexandria for passage, [VII. 325.]great was the heate the French men and I indured, in so much that in the day time, we did nought but in a low roome, besprinckle the water upon our selves, and all the night lye on the top or platforme of the house, to have the ayre; where at last bidding good-night to our Greekish Host, we imbarked in a Slavonian shippe, belonging to Ragusa; and so set our faces North for Christendome; in which ship I was kindly used, and Christian-like intertayned both for victuals and passage. The Windes somewhat at the beginning favouring us, wee weighed Anckers, and set forward to Sea: leaving the Coast of Cyrene Westward from us, which lyeth betweene Ægypt by the Sea side, and Numidia, or Kingdome of Tunnis.

The fabulous Countrey of Syrene.The chiefe Cities therein are Cyrene, Arsinoa, and Barca whence the whole Cyrenean Country taketh the modern name Barca Marmorica, anciently Penta Politana. The Soyle is barren of Waters and Fruites, the people rude and theftuous: yet it hath bred the most ingenious spirits of Calimachus the Poet; Aristippus the Phylosopher; Eratosthenes the Mathematician, and Symon of Cyrene, whom the Jewes compelled to carry our Saviours Crosse.

In this Province, which is now reckoned as a part of Ægypt, stood the Oracle of Jupiter Hammon, in the great Wildernesse confining with Lybia: Whither when Alexander travailed, he saw for foure dayes space, neither man, Beast, Bird, Tree, nor River: Where, when arrived, the flattering Priests, professed him to be the sonne of Jupiter: which afterward (being hurt with an Arrow) hee found false, saying; Omnes me vocant filium Jovis, sed hÆc sagitta me probat esse mortalem. West from Cyrene all the Kingdomes of Tunnis, Tremisen, Algier, Fesse, and a part of Morocco even to Gibilterre, or fretum [VII. 326.]Herculeum, under a generall name now called Barbary; and hardly can be distinguished by the barbarous Moores.

In the time of this our Navigation for Christendome, there dyed seaventeene of our Mariners, and all our foure French Pilgrimes, two of them being gray hayred, and 60. yeares of age, which bred no small griefe, and feare to us all, thinking that they had dyed of the plague, for it was exceeding rife in Alexandria from whence wee came.

The French men had onely left unspent among them all, threescore and nine Chickens of gold, which the Master of the Ship medled with, and because they were Papists, and they and I alwayes adverse to other, I could not clayme it. Foure French Pilgrimes dead.Their dead Corpes were cast over Board, in a boundlesse Grave to feed the fishes, and wee then expecting too the like mutation of Life; So likewise in our passage, we were five sundry times assayled by the Cursares and Pyrats of Tunnis and Biserta; yet unprevailing, for we were well provided with good Munition, and skilfull, Martiall, and resolute Ragusans, and a Gallant ship.

Our Ships burthen being sixe hundred Tunnes, did carry twenty eight peeces of Ordonance, two of them brazen; and foure score strong and strenuous Saylers, besides nine Merchants and Passengers. The greatnesse of our ship did more terrifie the roguish Runagats, then any violent defence we made: for they durst never set on us, unlesse they had beene three together; and yet we little regarded them, in respect of our long reaching Ordonance, and expert Gunners: In these Circumstances of time, I remember, almost every day, wee would see Flying fish.flockes of flying Fishes, scudding upon the curling waves, [VII. 327.]so long as their finnes be wet, which grow from their backe, as feathred wings doe from Fowles: But when they grow drye, they are forced to fall downe and wet them agayne, and then flye along. Their flight will bee the length of a Cables Rope, untouching Water; and in this their scudding, it is thought the Dolphin, is in persuing them, who is their onely enemy in devouring and feeding upon them; whose bignesse and length are like to Mackrels, but greater headed and shouldered. Meanewhile in these our Courses were we seven weekes crossed with Northerly Windes, ever Tackling and boarding from the Affricke Coast, to the Carminian shoare, in all which time wee saw no Land, except the boysterous billowes of glassie Neptune: And as Ovid sayde, in the like case crossing the Ionian seas, Nil nisi pontus et aer, viz.

The greatest cause of our Arrivall here, was in regard of our fresh Water that was spent; and therefore constrayned to beare in to this Ile: Which was my sole desire, wishing rather to Land heere, to see the Order of our Knights of Christendome, then to arrive at Ragusa in the Adriaticke Gulfe, where I had beene before. Our A joyfull arrival in Malta.Anchors being grounded, and our Boate ready to court the shoare, I bad farwell to all the Company, and in a singular respect to my generous Captayne, who would have nothing for my victuales and transportation from Ægypt; except a few relicts of Jerusalem: The boat being launched, and we landed in the haven, I accoasted a vulgar Taverne, and there lodged.

This City is divided in two, the old and new Malta, [VII. 330.]from which the Ile taketh the name; it is a large and populous place, and strongly fortified with invincible walles, and two impregnable Castles St. Hermes, and St. Angelo; St. Michael being distant from both: Here the great Master or Prince for that yeare being a Spaniard made much of me for Jerusalems sake; so did also a number of these gallant Knights, to whom I was greatly obliged. And withall to my great contentment, I rancountred here with a countrey Gentleman of mine, being a souldier there, named William Douglas, who afterward for his long and good service at sea was solemnely Knighted, and made one of their order. Whose fidele and manly services have beene since as plausibly regarded by the Maltezes, as Monsieur Creichton his worth, in learning and excellent memory, rests admired in Italy, but especially by the noble Gonzagaes, and dependant friends of the house of Mantua; for whose losse, and accidentall death, they still heavily bemone: acknowledging that the race of that Princely stock, by Gods judgements was cut off, because of his untimely death.

The Ile of Malta.Malta was called Melita, mentioned Acts 28. 1. 2. where the Viper leaped on Paules hand; I saw also the Creeke wherein he was shipwracked: This Iland may properly be termed the Fort of Christendome, yet a barren place, and of no great bounds, for their Cornes, and Wines come daily by Barkes from Sycilia: but it yeeldeth good store of Pomegranates, Cittrons, Cottons, Orenges, Lemmons, Figges, Mellons, and other excellent fruits. The Knights of Malta had their beginning at Acre in Palestina; from thence to the Rhodes, & now exposed to this rocky Ile. They are pertinacious foes to Infidels, for such is the oath of their order, continually making war and [VII. 331.]incursions against them, to their power: being strengthned also with many souldiers, and their Captaines are surnamed Knights of Malta, and so through a great part of Christendome; it is a most honourable Order: They are not permitted to marry, the most part of whom being younger brothers: the reason was, because not being intangled to wife and children, they might be the more resolute to adventure their lives in the Christian service; but therein they are mightily decayed, and their valour no way answerable to that it hath been when their auncestors lived in the Rhodes and holy Land; having had these eighteene yeares past little or no good fortune at all.

This Ile was given in possession to these Knights of St. John, by the Emperour Charles the fifth, and King of Spaine; being newly expelled from the Rhodes by Solyman the magnificent, Anno 1522. And afterward the Turke not contented therewith, and mindfull all-utterly to extermine their power, came with a huge Armado, and assayled Malta, Anno 1565. when Valetta was great An invincible victory.maister, who so couragiously withstood their fury, that the Turkes were defeated, and forced to returne.

This Iland is ten leagues in length, and three broad: the earth whereof being three foote deepe, is the cause, why it is not so fertile, as the clymat might afford: It containeth besides the City, forty seven Villages and nine Cassales; the peasants or naturall Inhabitants whereof, are of the Affrican complexion, tanny, and Sun-burnt; and their language semblable to the Barbarian speech, without any great difference, both tongues being a corrupt Arabick: And not unlike therein to the Italians from the Latine, or the vulgar Greeke from the auncient; yet the moderne Greeke is nearer the auncient, then the Italian [VII. 332.]is the Latine: These rurall Maltezes are extreamely bent, in all their actions, either to good or evill wanting fortitude of minde, and civill discretion, they can not temper the violent humours of their passions, but as the headstrong-tide, so their dispositions runne, in the superfluous excesse of affections.

They follow the Romane Church, though ignorant of the way, and their woemen be lovely faire, going head-covered with blacke vayles, and much inclined to The nature of the Maltezes.licentiousnesse; their beauties being burrowed from helpe more then nature: for now it is a common practice amongst decayed beauties, banquerouted by time or accidents, to hide it from others eyes with Art, and from their owne with false glasses. But (alasse) the graces and beauties of the soule ought more to be cared for, and to have the first place and honour, above these counterfeit or outward showes of the body; and the beauty and lovely proportion of the body, should be preferred before the effeminate deckings, that the body doth rather carry then enjoy: since it often hapneth; that a foule and deformed carkasse hath a faire and rich wardrope. In this Towne of Malta, there are many Turkish and Moorish slaves, very rudely treat, yet not answerable to that cruelty the slavish Christianes indure upon their Gallies in Barbary or Turky: The discription of Malta, I postpone to the succeeding relations of my second Travells; and after twelve daies staying here, I imbarked in a Frigat with other passengers, and arrived at Cicly in the South-east corner of Sicilia, being three score miles distant.

From thence coasting the shoare fifty miles to Siracusa, I rancounterd by the way, in a clifty Creeke close by the sea side, a Moorish Brigantine, with twelve oares on each side, charged with Moores, who had secretly stayed there [VII. 333.]a night and a day stealing the people away labouring on the fields: At which sudden sight, and being hard by them, I stopped my pace. Whereupon, about twenty Moores broke out upon me, with shables & slings: But my life and liberty being deare to me, my long traced feete became more nimble in twelve score paces, than they could follow in eighteene; for I behoved to fly backe the same way I came: where, when freed, I hastned to the next Watch-tower, marine set, and there told the Centinell, how a A Moorish Brigantine.Moorish Brigantine was lying within two miles at an obscure clift: and how hardly I escaped their hands: whereupon he making a fire on the top of the Tower, and from him all the Watch-towers along, gave presently warning to the contrey; so that in a moment, them of the Villages came downe on horse and foote, and well armed, and demanding me seriously of the trueth, I brought them with all possible celerity to the very place: where forthwith the Horse-men broke upon them, wounding divers, before they were all taken, for some fled to the Rocks, and some were in the coverd fields hunting their prey: At last they were all seazed upon, and fast tyed two, and two in iron chaines, and sixe Sicilians relieved whom they had stolne and thralled: Whence they were carried to Syracusa, I went also along with them, where, by the way the people blessed me, and thanked God for mine escape, and me for discovering them: from Syracusa (being condemned to the galleyes) upon the third day they were sent to Palermo, being 36. in number.

They gone, and I reposing here, the governour of that place, for this piece of service, and my travels sake did feast me three dayes, and at my departure would have rewarded me with gold, so also the friends of them that [VII. 334.]were relieved, which if I tooke or not judge you, that best can judge on discretion. This Citty is situate on a Promontore, that butteth in the Sea, having but one entery, and was once the Capitall seat of the Kingdom, though now by old tyranies, and late alterations of time, it is onely become a private place: Yet girded about with the most fragrant fields, for dainty fruites, and delicate Muscatello that all Europe can produce.

From this place, over-tracing other fifty miles to Catagna, situate at Ætnaes foote; I measured the third fifty miles to Messina. Where now I cease to discourse any further of this Iland, till my returne for Affricke, being my second Voyage: For true it is, double experience, deeper Knowledge; where then punctually in my following order, the Reader I hope shall finde his desired satisfaction.

An happy arrivall.From Messina, I imbarked in a Neapolitan Boat loaden with Passingers; whence shoaring along for foure hundred miles, the higher and lower Calabrian Coast, with a part of the Lavorean lists, uppon the twelfth day, we landed at Naples. Where being disbarked, I gave God thankes upon my flexed knees, for my safe arrivall in Christendome: And meeting there with the Earle of Bothwell, and Captayne George Hepburne, I imbraced the way to Rome, being sixe score and ten miles distant: where I stole one nights lodging privately, and on the morrow earely departing thence, and crossing Tyber, I visited these Townes in Italy before I courted the Alpes, Siena, Florence, Luca, Pisa, Genoa, Bullogna, Parma, Pavia, Piacenza, Mantua, Milane, and Torine: the commendation of which Cities rest revolv’d in these following verses.

Having passed Torine, and its Princely Court, whose present Duke might have beene the mirrour of Nobility, I kept my way through Piemont or Pedemontano, the sister of Lombardy, and second Garden of Europe; and crossing the steepe and Snowy Mountayne of Mont Cola The Ligurian Alpes.di Tenda, the highest Hill of all the Alpes: I found on its top, that it reserveth alwayes a Gradinian mist, for a mile of way long stakes, set in the Snow, each one a Speares length from another, to guide the Passinger his dangerous way; of the which stoopes if hee fayle, hee is lost for ever.

After I had traversed this difficult passage, I had two dayes journey in climbing and thwarting the Rockey and intricated hils of Liguria, over which Hannibal had so much adoe, to conduct his Army to Italy; making a way through the Snow, with Fire, Vineger, and Wine: Whence it was sayd of him, Viam aut inveniet Anniball, aut faciet: Leaving these Mountaynes behind me, I arrived at Niece in Provance, situate on the Mediterren Sea; and passing the Townes of Antibo and Cana, to night at Furges; there were three French murderers set uppon me in a theevish Wood twelve miles long; one of [VII. 336.]which had dogged me hither from Niece: Where having extreamely given me a fearefull chase, for a long League, and not mending themselves, they gave me over. Well, in the midst of the Wood I found an Hostery, and in it, two Women, and three young Children, with whom I stayed and lodged all night.

A happy escape from murder.After I had sup’d and going to bed, in came these aforesayd Villaines, accompanied with my Host; where, when seene, they straight accused me for my flight, and threatning me with stroakes, consulted my Death. Then I cryed to my Host for helpe, but hee stood dumbe, for he was their Companion, and to second their intention his wife made fast the lower doore. Whereat being mooved with deadly feare, I pulled my Turkish gowne from my backe, and opening my Sacket; sayd, Now Christian Gentlemen, I know you are distressed, and so am I, come search my cloathes and Budget, and if you find what you looke for, let me dye: Alas, I am a poore stranger, newly come from Jerusalem, and the Sepulcher of Jesus Christ, and after long travailes, and loe there is my Patent: And concerning my flight, I sweare, I onely fled for the safety of my life, but not for the preservation of my money, for come see I have none: my griefe is that I have it not for you: Good gentlemen consider the dangers that I have past amongst Infidels, and let not your Christian hands rob me of my turmoyled life; having nought, wherefore you should, were a lamentable thing to do.

This spoken, and much more, they never searched me, nor touched my Wallet, but went to Counsell, where they concluded uppon my forwardnesse in opening my body and other things to them, that I had no money, and therefore [VII. 337.]confirmed my life, which for the former respect, and the Holy Graves sake was granted. Whereupon packing up my Relickes agayne, they called for Wine, and drunke diverse times to me; and after a long spent conference, there supper making ready, they dismissed me for my bed: Whether, when led by my Hostesse, I privily made the doore fast, suspecting still a suddaine death: Well they sup’d, and were joviall, and at the first Cocke, went foorth to the woode, and the high way for their owne ends.

All which time I stood Centinell, and the morning come, my Host confessed, that onely he had saved my life; forswearing himselfe of their former sight; but sayd hee certainly they are Murderers. Leaving him with dissembling thankes, I arrived at Furges: where I learned A guard of Horsemen for a dangerous wood.that my Host was suspected to bee a Consort with these and many moe Murderers: well afterwards I heard, hee was arraigned, hanged, and quartered, the house razed, and his wife put to death; and ever since the French King, keepeth a guard of Horse-men there to keepe that filthy and dangerous woode free from Murderers. For now may I say, like to a ship that after a long Voyage, is eyther in greatest danger, or else cast away, entring the Roade and Haven from whence shee came; even so was I cast in the most eminent perill, that I had in all my Travayles, being on the Frontiers of France, and as it were, (in regard of remoter places) entering the Towne wherein I was borne.

Having given humble thankes, and lofty prayses to the Almighty for my deliverance, I traversed Provance, and Langadocke, where neare to Montpeillier, I met with the French gentlemans Father, whom I relieved from the Gallies in Canea of Candy; who being over-joyed with [VII. 338.]my sight, kindly intreated me for eight dayes, and highly rewarded mee with Spanish Pistols, lamenting for my sake that his sonne was at Paris: whence continuing my Voyage to Barselona in Catelogna of Spaine, I gave over my purpose in going to Madrile, because of deare bedding and scarcity of Victuals: and footing the nearest way through Arragon and Navarre, I crossed at the passage of Sancto Johanne, the Pyrhenei mountaines: And falling downe by Pau, and the River Ortes, I visited Gascony and Bearne; and from them, the Cities of Burdeaux and Rochel: and arriving at Paris, whence I first beganne my Voyage; I also there ended my first, my painefull, and Pedestriall Pilgrimage. Whence shortly thereafter visiting Englands Court, I humbly presented to King James, and Queene Anne of ever blessed memories; and to his present Majesty King Charles, certayne rare Gifts and notable Relickes, brought from Jordan and Jerusalem: Where afterward within a yeare, upon some distaste, I was exposed to my second Peregrination as followeth.

THE END OF THE FIRST BOOKE, OF MY FIRST TRAVAILES.