It was a wise saying amongst the Auncients, that thrice happy and blest was that Kingdome, when old men bore sway and ruled the State, and young men travelled abroad: The first by long experience prudently to execute judgement; and the latter by sight and knowledge of forraine soyles and [I. 2.]lawes, growing more judicious; might when come to age and preferment, the more facily, and dexteriously exhibit Justice at home. But what shall I say to these moderne and dissolute times? when by the contrary meanes, travell is sleighted, government abused, and insinuating Homelings, thrust in high offices, incapeable of them, being pratling Parrots, and sounding Cymbals: who convert sound Judgement and Justice, to their owne greedy respects, and selfe mercinary ends; turning their chiefest felicity to avaritious ambition and vaine glory, and their sweetest fortunes, to their belly and their backe. O miserable and effeminate age! when vertue by most men is despised, and neglected, and sensuall vice every where exalted: Nay; ruffian Pandors, by hopefull youth and prodigall gallants, are now clothed, Coatched, and richly rewarded; whilst best merits and highest deserts, of rarest spirits, are neither looked to, set by, nor regarded. And for approbation, and examples sake, of their valerous designes, let them thinke upon latter passages, nor worthy to be thought upon, and they will finde this future caveat to stand needfull, HÆc olim meminisse juvabit. So likewise now every Capri-cullion from CÆsar, to the Pascorell, can crowd and chawe from his warbling waspishnes, this stinging censure of absurd untrueth, that Travellers and Poets may lye & lye by authority, which they themselves performe at home without leave.

Concerning sinistrous censures.By which traditional concession, I being absolute in the first, and borne to the Muses, as to the World, a mungrell to both; may have a lawfull (unlawfull) liberty assigned. Any marvell? if men in this kind be so injuriously censured, when the very Gospell it selfe, by perfidious Atheists, Formalists, Sophisters, Romish-rabines, Nullifidians, and Schismaticall Sectaries, is quartered, mangled, and rejected; such be the Satanicall [I. 3.]opinions of this hell-borne age: Whose confused conceits, blasphemies, incredulities, and imaginary devisions, have shamefully stained the better part of this now best World. Nay, good and godly Kings, so pricked at, and wounded by the viperous murmurings of miscreant villaines, as though their royall and just lives were the meere inordinate paternes of all impiety, and lewdnesse. Sith therefore the Sacred Scriptures, the gods of the earth, Ecclesiasticke columes; yea the name and fame of the most righteous alive, be thus diversly taxed, and vituperiously calumniated; can prevention in me, escape the lawlesse horrour of this impoysoned fury? No, I have had already the assault, and newly prepared, patience proofe to receive more, wrought by the piercinghammer, of nineteene winters, as many Summers deare bought toyle. Let venome-thundring Crittickes, contumeliously carpe, infernall firebrand Cerberans barke, and the hell prepared off scourings of true religion gnashing grudge I have aheart can smile, at their backbiting malice, a judgement to discerne such wormish waspes, and if present, the weight of understanding truth, to confound their blind absurdities with reason. As for chamber complementers, whose vast insides, like to the vaults of wasting Strombolo, are become threed-bare, having their outsides onely adorned with rich ornaments.

To such bellowing caves winded with the borrowed rags of patch’d-up Commedies, clouted complements, stolne Phrases, and lip-licked labours, of lamp-living spirits, to such hollow Tombes, I say a tush for their kindnesse, and I justly hold it a manifest idolatry to honour, or do homage to any of them: And this much for the misconstruous lack-judgment of emulating cloudes, No Courtiers. And as concerning the impostrat quagmires of this abortive age, wherein so many Simonaicall Matchevilians, mercenary parasits, and arch-betraying Sicophants live, vindicating themselves excessively, upon the advantage of time, I insufficient I, to dive in such bottomlesse businesses, bequeath them onely to their owne repining consciences, just tryalls, and ignominious rewards. To satisfie the World in my behalfe, as touching my travells, I sincerely protest, that neither ambition, too much curiosity, nor any reputation I ever sought, from the bubling breath of breathlesse man (whose The reason why the Author begun his Travels.defective censure, inclineth, as instigation, or partiality, moveth his weake and variable opinion) did expose me to such long peregrinations and dangerous adventures past. But the proceeding whereof, thousands conjecture the cause, as many the manner; ten thousand thousands the effect: The condition reserved, I partly forbeare to penetrate in that undeserved Dalida wrong; and reconciled times pleading desistance, moderate discretion inserteth silent patience.

But by your leave, let me enter into consideration of the intractable passage of my malecontents past, and these importunate designes thereupon ensuing: And thus, have I, in the late dayes of my younger yeeres beene grievously afflicted? Ah; yea; and with more then desastrous injuries overclowded, O heavy under-prop’d wrongs. But hath not the like accident befallen to man before? [I. 7.]yea; but never the like condition of murther: Nay, but then preponderate seriously this consequent? may not the scelerate hands of foure blood-shedding wolves? facily devoure, and shake a peeces, one silly stragling lambe? yea, and most certaine, that unawares, the harmelesse innocent; unexpecting evill, may suddenly bee surprised by the ambushment of life-betraying foes. All this I acknowledge; but whereupon grew this thy voluntary wandring, and unconstrayned exyle? I answere, that being young, and within minority, in that occurrent time, I was not onely inveigled, but by seducements inforced, even by the greatest powers, then living in my countrey, A Dialogue betweene the Author and Himselfe.to submit my selfe to arbitrement, satisfaction and reconciliation. But afterward growing in yeeres, and understanding better the nature or such unallowable redresses, and the hainousnesse of the offence; I choosed rather (voti causa) to seclude my selfe from my soyle, and exclude my relenting sorrowes, to be entertained with strangers; then to have a quotidian occular inspection, in any obvious object of disastrous misfortune: or perhaps any vindicable action, might from an unsetled ranckour be conceived. O! a plaine demonstrate cause, and good resolution; for true it is, that the flying from evill, is a flying to grace, and a godly patience is a victorious freedome, and an undaunted conquerour over all wrongs; Vengeance is mine (saith the Lord) and I will repay it. To this I answer; mine eyes have seene the revenging hand of God upon mine adversaries, and these night-gaping foes, are trampled under foote, whiles I from strength to strength, doe safely goe, through the firy triall of calamities. My consolation arising from his eternall dictum, quos amo castigo, whom I love I correct: And to say my part in my soules experience,

And as one of the Auncients speaketh well, Adversa corporis, animÆ remedio sunt, Ægritudo, carnem vulnerat, sed mentem curat: The affliction of the body is wholesome phisicke for the soule, it woundeth the flesh, but cureth the spirit. Certaine it is, that the Lord in chastising his owne, doth often move the wicked reprobates of his wrath, to be the instruments of his correcting hand. I could involume, as large a discourse, upon this heart-grieving project, as upon the late intollerable tortures I sustained by the treacherous Governour, and bloody Inquisition of Malaga in Spaine; being in quality, though not in quantitie alike. But constantly containing my selfe, within the precinct of patience, referring such eminences to the Creator, which in a part belongeth not to the creature; I may sigh to this world, as sorrowfull Æneas to his Dido.

But now to proceed in my punctuall purpose, the nature of man, by an inward inclination, is alwaies inquisitive [I. 9.]of forraine newes; yea, and much more affecteth the sight and knowledge of strange, and unfrequented kingdomes, such is the instinct of his naturall affection. Navigation hath often united the bodies of Realmes together, but travell hath done much more; for first to the Actor it giveth the impression of understanding, experience, patience, and an infinite treasure, of unexprimable vertues: secondly, it unfoldeth to the world, the government of States, the authority and disposition of Kings and Princes; the secrets, manners, customes, and Religions of all Nations and People. And lastly, bringeth satisfaction to the home-dwelling man, of these things, he would have seene, and could not attempt. Travell hath beene in more request amongst the Ancients, then it is now with us in the latter Age. Philosophers, Poets, Historiographers, and learned Divines, how they have perigrinated to know the life of States, and the fashions of farre Countries, would be an endles taske for me briefly to relate. Many (I confesse) long to see the remotest Regions of the earth, but dare not undertake the dangers of sight, the chargeable expences of a tributary journey, the hard indurance of flint stones, for a soft feather bed, the extremities of thirst, nor the parching heat of the Sun, hunger in the belly, nor the moist distilling dew to be a humide coverlet to their tender skinne, with innumerable other insuing miseries. But Ixion-like, mistaking Juno, would by a meere imagination, runne out the sleeping course of an endlesse peregrination. For my part, what I have reaped, is by a deare-bought knowledge, as it were, a small contentment, in a never contenting subject, a bitter pleasant tast, of a sweete-seasoned sowre, and all in all, what I found was more then ordinary rejoycing, in an extraordinary sorrow of delights.

But now to leave the contemplation of attempts, I [I. 10.]come to the reall adventure; After two voyages I made to the Orcadian, and Zetlandian Isles; in the stripling age of mine adolescency, and there after surveighing all Germany, Bohemia, Helvetia, and the Low-Countreys from end to end; I visited Paris, where I remained ten moneths. Divers contestions have I had, about the equality of London, and Paris, in quantity and quality: But having a more serious subject in hand than this A comparison betweene London and Paris.paralell, I conclude thus, the infinite shipping, and commodious navigation of London (besides their universall commerce)is more of value, then the better halfe of Paris: compare you the quantity, for there is the quality of the argument. Paris I confesse is populous, a masse of poore people, for lacques and pages, a nest of rogues, a tumultuous place, a noctuall den of theeves, and a confused multitude: Where contrariwise London is adorned with many grave, prudent and provident Senators, civill, well taught, and courteous people, and absolutely, the best governed City on the whole face of the earth, as well by night, as by day, and nothing inferiour in quantity to it.

From Paris in the yeere of God 1609. March 7. I set forward, being brought three leagues on my way, with a number of my Countrey gallants, young Aiton, young Hutonhall, and specially Monsieur Hay of Smithfield, now Esquire of his Majesties body, with diverse other Gentlemen: where when my kindest thankes had over-clouded their courtesies, and farewell bid on both sides, I bequeathed my proceedings to God, my body to turmoyling paines, my hands to the burdon, and my feete to the hard brusing way. And as unwilling to make relation of my passing through France, the Savoyean, & Ligurian Alpes, sith it is manifested unto many in this Iland, both by sight and report, I would shunne, so farre [I. 11.]as possible I can, all prolixity of knowne, and therefore unnecessary discourse. Although I have a large reason, having cros’d the Alpes at sixe severall parts, onely, in the owne place, I meane to comment upon Italy in generall. Upon the 40. day after my departure from Paris, I arrived at Rome, of the which I will memorize, some rarest things, and so proceed. This City of Rome now extant, is not that old Rome, which Romulus founded that tempered the morter with the blood of his brother Rhemus, who disdainefully leaped over the new wals; and was once the mistresse of the universe, for her triumphs and antiquities, but is now only the carkas of the other, of which she retaineth nothing but her ruines, and the cause of them, her sinnes.

The Antiquity of Rome.Rome which Romulus first founded, contayned these two mountaines, Capitolino, and Palatino, with the valley lying betweene both hills: having three ports; the first was called Trigonio, because of the triangle it made neere to the foote of mount Palatin: The second Pandonio, because it was alwayes open, and for the commodity of the passage, it was called the free port: The third was called Carmentale of Carmenta, the mother of Evander who dwelt there: It was also named scelorata, or wicked gate in regard of 300. Sabines put cruelly to death issuing thereat.

Now after the Monarchy of the Romanes had attained to the full height; the Gothes, a base and unknowne people, displaying their banner, against this glorious and imperiall City, in the end razed, and subverted their pallaces, equalizing the walles with the ground. After the which detriment, the overthrow, the late subdued Romans, recovering their ruinous habitation, were inforced to withdraw the situation of the Towne, a little more downe-ward, in Campus Martius, close by the [I. 12.]bankes of Tibris; and transported the stones of these ransacked buildings, to reedifie their new dwelling places;

And yet Rome was once the famous City of Europe, the mother and nurse of worthy Senators, the miracle of Nations, the Epitome of the world, the Kingdome of Mars, and the seven headed soveraigne of many Provinces. Romes seven Hils.The seven hills whereon she stood, and now partly somewhere stands: for they are all contained within the vast bounds of the old walls, which as yet environeth the towne, are these, Palatino, Capitolina, Viminale, Aventina, Esquiline, CÆlio, and Quiraneno. Which certainely do demonstrate the whoore of Babylon, sitting on the beast with seaven heads, and cannot be understood but of Rome, being builded on these seven hils: having a correspondence to seaven Kings who reigned there; and also acknowledging seven severall Rulers, Kings, Consuls, Decemviri, Tribunes, Dictators, Emperours, and now Popes. During the felicity of the Romaines, this Citty was never taken, but by the Gauls, which being recovered they made a Law that Priests (being otherwise exempted) should goe to warre, if ever the Gauls came againe, with whom they fought not for dominion, but for their owne preservation: But since it became pontificiall, it hath bene made a prey to all barbarous Nations, and never was besieged by any that tooke it not.

The River Tyber which runneth through her bosome, is not unlike to Jordan and Tagus; yet not so big as either of them, being all three of a troubled and muddy colour: But it is exceeding outragious, and often Manasseth to [I. 13.]drowne the whole Mansions, as greeving to grace the wals of such a wicked and imperious place: Who having lost her former preheminent glory, and domination over the world, would now alledge and ascribe a second prerogative over the soules of men, the heavens, the hels, the silver-coyned Purgatory, the deposing and imposing of Kings: The former was done by the undaunted courage of the invincible sword, the latter by presumption, Avarice, insinuation, and absurd lyes.

Saint Catherines observation.I remember of a pretty observation of Saint Catherine of Siena, who being stricken in devotion, went to venerate Rome, accompanied with a goodly traine; and having visited all the Monuments, supposed Holy places, and Religious relickes there, for the space of five dayes; At last she came to take a view of the Popes Palace, where having spent a whole day, strictly remarkeing the gesture and carriage of the Popes servants: She sawe nothing but abhomination, prophanation, and irreligious living, and worser then in Rome it selfe: Whereuppon suddenly the next day shee departed for Siena, being an hundreth Miles distant; pittifully bewayling her journey, and the miserable livers she sawe in Rome. Protesting alwayes after for sixteene yeares time till her death, that the Winde Meaning of Sodomy.never came from the East blowing Westward to Siena, but she thought the filthinesse of the Popes Palace, and the beastlinesse of Rome, ever stunke in her nose.

This River of Tyber especially made muster of his extravagant disgorgements, at that time when Pope Clement 8. was crowned Duke of Ferrara, anno 1589. and that same night he returned to Rome, Tyber waxed so proud of his arrivall, that impetuously inunding his bankes to make him welcome, he over-whelmed the [I. 14.]better halfe of the Towne: And if it had not bene for the infinite charges of the Pope, and desperate toile of the people, the violent force of his rage swelling courtesie, had absolutely subverted and carried away the rest of the City. The like inundation was never seene of Tyber, as after this Coronation, portending, that as the first Gomorah was destroyed by fire, so this second Sodome should be sommerssed by water. The beginning of this River springeth from the Ombrian and Aquilean hills joyning with the Alpes Appenine: whose course is fourescore and sixteene miles; disburdening it selfe in the sea Mediterren at Ostia twelve miles from Rome. The mouth and haven whereof have beene long dammed up, to stoppe the passage of hostile and Moorish incursions, least the City should be surprised on a sudden. By which slavish Ecclesiasticke feare, Rome is shamefully defrauded of shipping and forraine trafficke; and if it were not for the Clergy, which are the two parts of the inhabitants, (besides the Jewes and Curtezans, which are the greatest implements of the other third part) it would become the most miserable towne in Italy.

And notwithstanding that for the space of 12. miles round about Rome, there are neither Cornes, nor Wines, nor Village, Plantage, or Cultivage, save onely playne and pastoragious fields; intermingled at all quarters with auncient watch-Towers being an old policy of the Romans, to prevent any sudden surprise of their enimies; insomuch that at my first view of Rome, I imagined the people were all famished, or in danger of famishing.

But by your leave, being once enterd the City, I found abundance of all things necessary for life, at so easie and gentle a rate, that never towne in Europe hitherto could shew me the like. The common wine that is drunke in [I. 15.]Rome, is Vin Romanisco, the better sort Albano, Muscatello, Sheranino, but as for Lachrime Christi, the teares of Christ, I drew so hard at that same weeping wine, till I found my purse begun to weepe also; and if time had not prevented the sweetnes of such teares, I had beene left for all the last miserable mourner. As for the place The Pilgrimes dinner at the Popes table.where the Pilgrimes find one dinner, called the Popes table, it is thus: there is a certaine low roome at St. Peters Pallace, and without the gate, where every day at our nine of the clocke, there meete 21. pilgrimes; 14. from the Trinity, one having a bullet for all, and seven from St Peters Penitentialls: where being received, the seven Jesuit Pilgrims get the upper place, and sit alone, yet all of them alike served, each of them having foure dishes of meat, besides bread & abundance of wine. The dinner done, their fragments are wrapt up in cleane paper, which they carry with them, and so departing, they, or like company come no more there. They are dayly served with a very venerable Prelat, and a few other serviceable Preists, but for the Popes presence with them, there is no such matter. That liberty being spoyld by a drunken Dutch-man about 60. yeeres agoe, who in presence of the Pope gave up againe his good cheare and strong wines, with a freer good will then perhaps they were allowed him, whereat the Pope grewe angry, notwithstanding the drunken fellowe cryed through his belching throate, Thankes Holy Father, Deere Holy Father, God blesse your Holinesse.

Many have wrote of the singularities of old Rome, and I will also recite some decayed monuments thereof, which I have seene: The speciall object of Antiquity I saw, being never a whit decayed to this day, is the Templum omnium Deorum, but now, omnium sanctorum, [I. 16.]builded in a rotundo, and open at the top with a large round, like to the quire of the holy grave. And a pretty way from this, are the remainants of that Auncient Amphitheatre beautified with great Columnes, of a wonderfull bignesse and height, and a mile in compasse; the reason why it was first devised, the ghosts of the slaughtered Romes Antiquities.Sabines may testifie. To be briefe, I saw the decayed house of worthy Cicero, the high Capitoll, the Pallace of cruell Nero, the Statues of Marcus Aurelius, Alexander, and his horse Bucephalus. The greene hill like unto mount Cavallo, that was made of the Potters sheards at one time, which brought the tributary gold to this imperiall seate: the seven Piramides, some whereof during her former glory, were transported from Ægypt: The high and small statues of Peter and Paul, the Castell St. Angelo, which Adrian first founded, standing now in a moderate circumferent height, with incircling battlements, and their doubtfull transported Reliques from Jerusalem, with many other things I diligently remarked, some whereof were frivolous, some ambiguous and some famous.

Neere to mount Palatin, and the decayed temple of Romulus, I saw the Temple of Venus, converted now to the Church of Sancta Maria, Liberatrice Dalla piene de Inferno, The deliverer from infernall paynes, as Venus was the Consolatrix of amorous paynes.

Besides all these I saw one most sight-worthy spectacle, which was the Library of the auncient Romans, being licentiated to enter with two Gentlemen, Sir William Carre, Mr. James Aughmuty my Countrey men, where when I was come, I beheld a world of old Bookes, the first whereof, was an infinite number of Greeke Bibles subscribed with the hands of these holy Fathers, who (as [I. 17.]they say) translated them out of the Hebrew tongue.

I saw also the Academies of Aristotle, wherein he treateth of the soule, health, life, nature and qualities of men, with the Medicaments of Galen, for the diseases and Famous Authors.infirmities of man: The familiar Epistles of Cicero, the Æneidot of Virgil, the Saphicke Verses of that Lesbian Sapho, the workes of Ovid, Pliny, Plutarke, Titus Livius, Horatius, Strabo, Seneca, Plato, Homer, Tirentius, Cato, Hippocrates, Josepus, Pythagoras, Diodorus Siculus, Eusebius, S. Austine, S. Ambrose, S. Cyprian, S. Gregory, and likewise the workes of other excellent Phylosophers, Divines and Poets: all wrote with their owne hands, and sealed with their names, and manuall subscriptions. I saw also the forme of the first auncient writing which was upon leaves of trees, cakes of lead, with their fingers on ashes, barkes of trees, with strange figures, and unknowne Letters, that was brought from Ægypt: for the Ægyptians first devised the use thereof, and the sight of infinite Obligatory writings of Emperors, Kings and Princes, which I omit to relate, referring the same to be Registred by the next beholder.

Bidding adew to my company, and this Library, I longed to view the gorgeous Mosaicall worke of S. Peters Church: The matter was no sooner conceived, but I went to the doore, yet afraid to enter, because I was not accustomed with the carriage, and ceremonies of such a Sanctum Sanctorum: but at the last, abandoning all scrupulosities, I came in boldly, and on my right hand, as I entred within the doore, I espied the portrayed image of S. Peter [I. 18.]The brasen Image of Saint Peter.erected of pure Brasse, and sitting on a brasen Chaire. The fashion of the people is this, entring the Church, they go straight to this Idoll, and saluting with many crosses his senslesse body, kisse his feete, and every one of his severall toes: insomuch that those his comfortlesse feete are growne firy red, while his body, save his breasts, remaineth brazen blew: and yet forsooth some of their learned Rabines will not have this superstition, but an humble commemoration of their adored Saints, or the like, for procuring favour of intercession, whilst the erected Idoll (interum) receiveth all their superfluous abhominations of diurnall worship. Next, they lay their heads under the sole of his right foote, and arising, rub their Beades on his hard costed belly: thus adoring that breathlesse masse of mettall, more then though it were a living creature.

O wonderfull and strange spectacle? that these onely titular Christians, should become worse of knowledge then Ethnicke Pagans, to worship and reverence the workemanship of mens hands. Woe and shame be unto you all blind Hereticall Papists; Why should you make to your selves Idols and Images of gold, silver, brasse, yron, stone, earth and tree; And notwithstanding would excuse the matter with a superstitious reason, alledging, you do it onely in remembrance, where otherwise it is a damnable signe of wilfull obdurate ignorance: May not the prohibition of the 2. Commandement of Gods Law, which absolutely you abrogate, dividing the last Commandement in two; confound the errour of this Idolatry, ingrafted in your hardned hearts.

What vertue can be in a lumpe of brasse? or what comfort in the devices of handy-crafts-men? Alas, nothing but eternall sorrow & condemnation. This was [I. 19.]one of the lamentable errors I saw in the Roman Sea, amongst many other thousands: When the foolish Listranes or Licaonians would have sacrificed Buls to the honour of Paul and Barnabas, they rent their cloaths, and ranne in among the people, crying, and saying; O men, why doe you those things, we are even men subject to the like passions that you be: How is it then, That the Apostles being alive, would have no acknowledging by any homage of man; yet when they are dead, the Superstition of Papists.Romanists will worship their counterfeit similitude, in stone or tree. What unworthy-fained traditions and superstitious Idolatry? What strange new devising trickes they use, to plant idle monasteriall Loyterers? How many manner of wayes these belly-minded slaves Epicure-like leade their lives? And what a Sea of abhominable villany they swimme into, practising even unnatural vices, I meane of their wrongfuly called Religious Bishops, Priests, Friers, Curates, and all the hypocriticall crew, of these pervers’d Jebusites, no heart can expresse; nor the most eloquent tongue can sufficiently unfold. Whose luxurious lives are vulgarly promulgat in this Hispanicall proverbe:

But for feare of Excommunication from that Anti-christian Curtezan. I dare not persevere longer herein: Although I can; yea, and so truely bewray their all-corrupted estate, that I need no information of any Romane Novice Traveller. Of whose sight and experience, would God all the Papists in Britaine had the like eie-witnessing approbation as I have had, I am certainly perswaded, with tears & sighes, they would heavily bemone [I. 20.]the terrible fal of that Babylonian whoore, which in a prophane estimation) is their holy mother Church. For I sincerely sweare to thee, O faithfull Christian (as the Italian usually doth in his humours) by the golden tripled Crowne of my ghostly Father, Paulo Papa quinto, whatsoever sacriledge, incest, or villany a Papist committeth; let him come here, and fill the bribing hands of the Simonaicall Minions, of the thrice crowned Priest, (for Roma non captat ovem sine lana.)

Pardons for pennies.And he shall have Indulgences, Dispensations, adjoyned Penances, or absolved Offences, for hundreds, thousands, lesse, or more yeeres. The period of Time, after eight and twenty dayes abode, wishing my departure, I hardly escaped from the hunting of these blood-sucking Inquisitors, of which the most part were mine owne Country-men, the chiefest of whom was Robert Mophet a Jesuit borne in St. Andrewes, David Chambers, and of our Colledge there, one Gordon, and one Cuningham, borne in the Cannon-gate of Edenborough: And to speake trueth, if it had not beene for Robert Meggat, borne neere to Newbattle, then resident in Burgo di Roma with the old My escape from Rome.Earle of Tirone, who hid me secretly for three dayes in the top of his Lords Pallace, when all the streets and ports of Rome were layd for me, who conveighing me away at the fourth mid-night, and leapt the walles of Rome with me, I had doubtlesse dyed as hot a death as a Lady Prioresse of Naples did afterward in my second Travells: And for better record Patricke Baxstter, now dwelling in Dundy, and then followed the Earle of Tyron can justifie the same, my custody and mine escape being both within his knowledge. Yet I may justly affirme it in these parts a man can finde no worser enimie then his nationall supposed friend, Religion being the cause of [I. 21.]it, and at home none more false nor deceitfull then a bosome friend.

Mens mindes, their praises, best loves, and kind conceits, They hurling come and goe, like fish at baits.

And the Italian saith in his Proverbe; God keepe me from the hurt of my friends, for I know well how to keepe me from mine enemies. From thence bound Eastward, I visited Naples, the commendation of which, I revolve in this verse;

Among many other things neare to this City, (which in the conclusion of this Historicall discourse be more particularly expressed) were Lacus Avernus, Sibillaes Cave, Puteoli, the Sulphurean mountaine Capua and Cuma, where banished Æneas from Troy and Carthage arrived. I saw the Monument of Virgills buriall standing in the fore face of his owne Grotto, that is cut through the mountaine of Cataia, being passable for Coatches, and a halfe mile long; and affixed these lines thereupon;

Italy was called so of Italus, a King in Sicily, which first taught the people agriculture: The more impropriated names were Hesperia, because it is situate under the evening starre Hesperus: Latium, because Saturne driven from Creet by his sonne Jupiter, hic latebat abditus; and Ænotria in regard of the abundance of wines it produceth. This Countrey was first sayd to be inhabited [I. 22.]by Janus, Anno Mundi 1925. From whom sprung the The first plantation of Italy.tribes of the Samnites, Sabines, Laurentani, and Tarentines: The second Plantation was by Evander, and certaine other Arcadians, who being banished from their native dwellings, seated themselves here: Thirdly, by the Trojanes, under conduct of Æneas, who forsaking the delicious lives of the effeminate Affricans arrived here, and were kindly entertained by King Latinus, whose daughter Lavinia, Æneas married: So thus from the Trojans the Italians bragge of their discent; and so likewise boast divers other nations to have discended from that Dardan stocke, as glorying in such a famous pedegree. The length of Italy is nine hundreth Italian miles, though some allot a thousand, it is false, for I have trod foure severall times from end to end of it on the soles of my feete, even from Vallese, the first Towne in Piemont, discending mount Synais from La Croix Southward, which secludeth Savoy; and to Capo Bianco in Calabria, hemb’d in with the gulfe Tarento on the one side, and the Faro of Messina on the other, it being the furthest promontore of Italy.

So in a false description, some blind Geographers, through base ignorance, make England longer then Scotland in their Mappes, when Scotland, by the best judgements, and mine owne better experience, is a hundred and twenty miles longer then England: It is a deocular errour, which I could wish to be reformed, as in the conclusion of this worke I shall more credibly make cleare.

The breadth of Italy at the roote and beginning thereof, bending along the Alpes from the Adriaticke coast, to the riviera di Genoa, or Ligurian shore, is but 240. Italian miles, growing narrower, and narrower, till it shut out it selfe in two hornes, Calabria, and Terra di Ottranto. The breadth of which, or either, extendeth not above [I. 23.]foureteene English miles from sea to sea, the gulfe Tarento (which is unnavigable in respect of infinite craggy shelfes) deviding the two homes. On the North side of Terra di Ottranto, lieth Apulia, bordering with Mare superum, a very fruitfull soile for cornes; & West-ward thence boundeth, terra di lavoro, or proprium regnum Napolitanum. These foure territories make up the intire The Kingdome of Naples.Kingdome of Naples: The chiefe Cities of which, are Naples, Capua and Salerno, in terra di Lavoro: In Calabria, are Cousenza, the chiefe seate of the President, or Subvicegerent, Rhegio, Allauria, and Montecilione: In terra di Ottranto, are Otranto the which towne being taken by Mahomet the great, Anno 1481. involved all Italy in such a feare, that for a whole yeare, and till the expulsion of the Turks, Rome was quite forsaken, the next are Lucia, and Brundusium beautified with a famous haven.

And in Apulia, are Manfredo, Arpino where Tully was borne, Venusio, whence Horace had his birth, and Canno famous for the victory of Hanniball, against the Romans. The Church-land beginnes beyond Rome eighty miles at Terracina, being just opposit to Gayetta, the West-most confine by the Marine of the Neapolitan Kingdome, neare to Mount Circello, and the utmost Marine limit Eastward of Campagna di Roma, or the Churches patrimony, imbracing both seas, till it runne to Ponto Centino in Tuscana: which divideth the precincts of Re di Coffine, & Aquacupadente, the last frontiers of the great Duke and Popes lands. All which bounds to Terracina, and in the way of Venice from Rome to Spaleto is denominated Campagna di Roma, or Latium; and thence it reacheth along Northwest, by the Venetian gulfe, to the uttermost bounds of the Dutchy of Ferara, being thirty miles from Venice: Extending in length to three hundred & fifty [I. 24.]miles, whose breadth is narrow, and where it joyneth with both seas, it is but sixty miles. The Church-land is The foure Papall Territories.divided in foure territories, Campagna di Roma, or old Latium; Rome, Viterbo, Narni, Tarni, Viletri, Montefiascone, and Civitavecchia, being the chiefe Cities: Next, the Countrey of Ombria, or Ombrosa, lying betweene Rome and Loretta, the chiefe Cities are Spaleto, from whence it is reckoned a Dutchy, Perugia, a Sacerdotall University, Fulino, and Asisi, where great St. Frances with his invisible Stigmata was borne. At the which Asisi, I saw the place (as they say) where the Angell appeard to his mother, telling her, that she should conceave and beare a sonne, should be the Champion of Jesus, and hard by they shew me the Crub or Stall where he was borne, with many other foolish lyes both sinfull and abhominable: every way representing his imaginary life, like to the heavenly tract and resemblance of our blessed Saviour. The third is Marca di Ancona by the sea side, Ancona being principall, the other Cities are Asculi, Marcerata, Tolentino, Riginati, Aguby, and Parasiticall Loretta. The fourth is Romania, lying along toward Ferrara, betweene the sea, and the hills Appenine.

This Ecclesiasticke dowry of Romania, is disjoyned from Marca di Ancona, by the Duke of Urbins lands, which division by the sea side is thirty miles in length, containing Pesaro, Fanno, and Sinigalia all sea port Townes, the other of this Dutchy are Urbino, and Casteldurante. The chiefe Towne in Romania, is Ravenna, which for antiquity will not bow her top to none in Italy: Here the Popes Legate remaineth, the other be Rimini, Fereola, Bullogna and Ferrara, and this much for the Popes foure Ecclesiasticke territories.

Tuscana or Ætruria lying South from the middle of [I. 25.]this Church-land is 100. miles in length, and as much The Duke of Florence his Patrimony.in breadth, I meane of that belonging to the great Duke: Which hereditary boundes was but lately enlarged by Ferdinando, Father to late Cosmus, and brother to Mary of Medicis, the French Queene Mother now living: Who annexed thereunto the Reipublicks of Pisa and Siena: The other sequestrate Tuscan jurisdiction, is the little comonwealth of Luca: The chiefe Citty is Florence, whose streetes are divided by the River Arno; the other of this principality, are Pisa, Siena, Pistoia, Empoli, Ligorne, and Arretzo.

From Tuscany to the West, and North-west, lieth Lumbardy, intituled the garden of the World, which is now divided (besides the Venetian territory, of which I will speake in the owne place) in foure principalities, Milaine, Mantua, Parma and Modena: The other Cities be Cremona, Pavia, Lodi, Pleasance, Rhegio Brisiles, Palestra, Navarro and Allessandria di Paglia. This Province is mainely watered through the middle with stately Po, in which Phaeton was drenched, when he came tumbling downe from Heaven. The Rivers Ladishe, Montanello, Delia Guarda, and other forcible streames supporting the shoulders of it.

Piemont and Genuaes Jurisdictions.West from Lumbardy lieth Piemont, betweene it and Savoy: The City whereof, and wherein the Savoyan Duke hath his Residence is Torino, situate on Po. The other, Aste Verseilles and Cowie. South from Piemont and Lumbardy, lieth the Riviera of Genoa, along the Mediterrean sea: the territory of which is narrow, but above one hundreth miles in length: All which is exceeding rocky and mountainous, yet producing good store of Orenges, Lemmons, Figges and Ches-nuts, whereon the Mountaineri [I. 26.]onely live, being either rosted, or baked in bread: The chiefe Cities of this Genewesen Liguria, are Genoa, Italy lyeth as the right arme, reaching forth from the maine body of Europe.and Savona. Italy lying in forme of a legge, is on both sides environed with the Sea, save onely the North-west part, and roote thereof, which is devided from France and Germany, by the Ligurian, Savoyean, Grisonean, Zingalian, and Tirolian alpes, which bend North-east, and South-west, inclosing it from the body of Europe, from sea to sea. Italy of all other Regions under the Sunne, hath beene most subject to the vicissitude of Fortune, yet not a little glorying in these famous Captaines, Fabius Maximus the buckler, and Camillus the sword of Rome, Scipio, Pompey, and CÆsar; for venerable Poets Virgil, Ovid, and renowned Horace, famous also for the Orator Cicero, and the Historians Tacitus, and Livius: The soyle is generally abundant in all things necessary for humane life, and the people for the most part are both grave and ingenious, but wondrous deceitfull in their actions, so unappeasable in anger, that they cowardly murther their enemies rather then seeke an honourable revenge, and so inclind to unnaturall vices, that for bestiality they surpasse the Infidells: the women of the better sort are slavishly infringed from honest and lawfull liberty: They of the middle ranke somewhat modest in carriage, witty in speech, and bountifull in affection: They of the vulgar kind are both ignorant, sluttish and greedy, and lastly the worser dregs, their impudent Curtezans, the most lascivious harlots in the world. This much in generall for the briefe description of this Region, and so I revert to mine itinerary relation.

In the meane while, having alwayes a regard of my hasty dispatching from Christendome, I returned through Terra di Lavoro, by the sea side, Campagna di Roma, aunciently Latium, and Ombria, now the Dutchy of [I. 27.]Spaleto, even to Loretta, standing in the Marca of Ancona, addressing my selfe to Venice for transportation. But by your leave, let me lay downe before your eyes some notable illusions of Modonna di Loretta, which I found in my way-faring journey, to amplifie my former discourse, concerning the errours of the Roman Church, and as yet was never Englished in our language.

Before I came neare to Loretta by tenne miles, I overtooke a Caroch, wherein were two Gentlemen of Rome, and their two Concubines; who when they espied me, saluted me kindly, enquiring of what Nation I was? whither I was bound? and what pleasure I had to travell alone? After I had to these demands given satisfaction, they intreated me to come up in the Caroch, but I thankfully refused, and would not, replying the way was faire, the weather seasonable, and my body unwearied. At last they perceiving my absolute refusall, presently dismounted on the ground, to recreate themselves in my company: and incontinently, the two young unmarried Dames came forth also, and would by no perswasion of me, nor their familiars mount againe; saying, they were all Pilgrimes, and bound to Loretta (for devotion sake) in pilgrimage, and for the pennance enjoyned to them by their Father Confessour. Truely so farre as I could judge, their pennance was small, being carried with horses, and the appearance of their devotion much lesse: for lodging at Riginati, after supper, each youth led captive his dearest Darling to an unsanctified bed, and left me to my accustomed repose.

When the morning Starre appeared, we imbraced the way marching towards Loretta, and these vermillion Nymphs, to let me understand they travelled with a chearefull stomacke, would oft runne races, skipping like [I. 28.]wanton Lambes on grassie Mountaines, and quenching their follies in a Sea of unquenchable fantasies. Approaching neare the gate of the Village, they pulled off their shooes and stockings, walking bare-footed through the streets, to this tenne thousand times polluted Chappell, mumbling Paternosters, and Ave Mariaes on their beads. When they entred the Church, wherein the Chappell Ignorant devotion.standeth, I stood at the entry beholding many hundreds of bare-footed blinded bodies, creeping on their knees and hands: Thinking themselves not worthy to goe on foote to this idely supposed Nazaretan House, like to this saying;

Unto this falsely patronized Chappell, they offer yearely many rich gifts, amounting to an unspeakable value, as Chaines, & Rings of Gold and Silver, Rubies, Diamonds, silken Tapestries, Goblets, imbroudries and such like. Romes avarice.The Jesuiticall and Poenitentiall Fathers receive all, but who so enjoy all, let Camera reverenda Romana, graunt certification to this Loretan avariciousnesse, who fill their coffers twice in the yeare therewith. My foure Pilgrimes having performed their ceremoniall customes, came backe laughing, and asked why I did not enter? But I as unwilling to shew them any further reason, demaunded what the matter was? O (said the Italians) Jurando per il Cieloe Iddio Sacratissimo; This is the House wherein the Virgin Marie dwelt in Galile: and to the confirmation of these words shewed me a Booke, out of which I extracted these Annotations.

This Chappell they hold it to be the house, in which [I. 29.]Mary was annunced by Gabriel, and wherein she conceived Damnable illusions of Loretta.Jesus, by operation of the holy Ghost, & in the meane time, that devotion waxed scant amongst the Christians of the Primitive Church in the Holy Land: strangers tirannizing over the territories of Canaan, as Heraclius, Costroes King of Persia, Sarazens, and Harancone King of Ægypt; it came to passe in the yeare of our Lord, 1291. and in the time of Pope Nicholas the fourth, that it being shaken off the foundation, was transported miraculously by Angels in the night, from Nazareth in Gallilee, to Torsalto in Slavonia: the distance being by sea and land 17. hundred Italian miles, O! a long lift for so scurvie a Cell. And in the morning, Shepheards comming to the place of pastorage, found this house, wherewith being astonished, they returned in hast, and told Saint George Alessandro, the Prior of Torsalto, who in that meane while was lying sick. He being stricken in admiration with these newes, caused himselfe to be borne thither, and laid before the Altar, and falling in a marvellous trance, A Simonaicall vision.the Virgin Mary by a heavenly Vision appeared to him, saying after this manner.

A Papisticall Dreamd of Oration.Behold, thou hast often pierced the heavens, with invocations for thy reliefe, and now I am come, not onely to restore thee to thy health, but also to certifie thee, that thou doubt nothing of this House; for it is holy in respect of mee, the chast immaculate Virgin, ordained before all eternity, to be the Mother of the most High. It was in this Chamber my Mother Anna conceived me, nourished me, and brought me up, in singing Psalmes, Hymnes, and Praises to the glory of God; and also I kept in this roome the blessed Infant Jesus very God, and very Man, without any grievance or paine brought him up with all dilgent observation: And when [I. 30.]cruell Herod sought the Babes life, by the advertisement of the Angell, I, and my husband Joseph, who never knew my body, fled with him downe to Ægypt. And after his passion, death, and ascension to Heaven, to make a reconciliation of humane nature, with the Court Coelestiall: I stayed in this house with John, and the other Disciples: Who considering after my death, what high mysteries had beene done into it, consecrated and converted the same to a Temple, for a commemoration of Christs sufferings, the chiefe of Martyrs. Also that resplending Image thou seest, was made by Saint Luke (my familiar) for eternizing the memory of my portraiture, as I was alive, by the commandement of him, who doth all things, and shall reserve this sacred Image to the worlds end: That Crosse of Ceder, which standeth at the side of the little Westerne window, was made by the Apostles: These Cinders in the Chimney touch not, because they are the fragments of the last fire I made on earth: And that Shelfe whereon my linnen clothes, and prayer Bookes lay, Let no person come neere it: For all these places are sanctified and holy. Wherefore my Sonne, I tell thee, awake, and goe recite the same which I have told thee unto others; and to confirme thy beleefe therein, the Queene of Heaven giveth thee freely thy health.

The shamefull opinions of the Papists concerning Loretta.Frier Alexander being ravished (say they) with the Vision, went and reported it to Nicholas Frangipano, Lord of that Countrey. And incontinently he sent this Prior and other foure Friers to Nazareth, whereby he might know the trueth thereof, but in that journey they dyed. The Virgin Mary perceiving their incredulity, caused Angels the second time to transport the house over the gulfe of Venice, to a great wood neere by the sea side, in the territory of Riginati in Italy, being 300. miles distant. Which, when the country-men had found, and [I. 31.]remarking the splendor of the illuminating Image, dispersed these newes abroad. And the Citizens of Riginati, having seene what great miracles was daily done, by the vertue of this Chappell, imposed then to it this name, Our Lady of Miracles. A little while after the people resorting to it with rich gifts, there haunted in the wood many theeves and cut-throates, who robd and murthered the Pilgrims. Which innocent spilt bloud, pricking their pitifull Lady to the heart, she made the Angels transport it the third time, and set it on the top of a little Mountaine, belonging to two brethren in heritage, being forty foure miles distant from the former place. But they upon a day quarrelling, and discording about the utility of the Foure times transported.Offerings to this House, the Angels did remoove it the fourth time, and placed it in a high broad way, where it standeth unremooved to this day, which place is now called the Village of Loretta; and from the last Station nine miles distant. A confirmation by the Popes.This was confirmed by the Papall authority to be of an undoubted trueth, after a hundreth and fifty three yeares deliberation. Loe, as briefly as I could, have I layd open to thy judicious eyes, the transportations, Originall, and Papisticall Opinions of Loretta; protesting I have added nothing to the Authours description, but onely collected these speciall Warrants; omitting other infinite foolish toyes, conceived for their blind-folded credulity.

This Chappell, or rather dwelling house, as they would have it, stood alwayes alone, till of late, that Pope Clement 8. caused build a glorious Church over it: And here by accident I encountred with a very courteous and discreet Gentleman, James Arthur, whose company was to me most acceptable: Our acquaintance being first made at the [I. 32.]beginning of the same voiage upon the mountaines of Ferrara in Paese du Burbon, and bound to visite Venice, in his returning home for Scotland, as well as he had done Rome and other Cities of Italy.

Now I remember here of a pretty jest, for he and I going in to see the inravled image with sparrets of iron, and musing on the blacknesse of her face, and the richnesse of her gowne, all set with precious Stones and Diamonds; and because she is sightlesse, foure lampes of oyle they keepe alwayes burning before her face, that the people may see her, because she cannot see them. There was, I say, a young lusty woman hard by my elbow, busie at A fleshly false-sprung miracle.her Beades, who with the heate of the throng, and for lacke of ayre, fell straight in a sound: the women about her gave a shoute, and cryd that our blessed Lady had appeared to her; whereupon she was carried forth and layd upon the steppes, that discend from the Chappell to the Church-floore, five hundreth more come to visite her with salutations of Saint, Saint, O ever blessed Saint; Now it was Friday in the fore-noone, and the woman having travelled all night, and to save charges of fish, had eaten a cold bit of her owne meat privately in the Taverne, with halfe a Buckale of red Wine: The people more admiring this imaginary heavenly trance, than the reliefe of the woman; at last sayd I, brother Arthur, I will goe open yonder womans breast, and I did so: and holding up her head before all the people, there sprung a flood of vin garbo downe the Alabaster stayres, intermingled with lumpes of ill-chewd flesh: Whereat the people being amazed, from a Saint swore she was a Divell: And if my friend and I, had not made hast to carry the sicke woman from the Church to a Taverne, doubtlesse, they had stoned her to death; and here was one of their miracles.

[I. 33.]Another time, comming backe from my second Travels in Affricke, it was my lucke to stumble in here againe, where I saw an old Capuschin Frier conjuring the Divell out of a possessed woman, who had stayed there, and two men keeping her above eighteene moneths, being twise a day brought before the Chappell. The Frier stood up before her, the two men holding both her armes; A Capuschin Frier conjuring the Divell.and sayd, laying his formost finger on her brow; In nomine Patris, &c. Io vi cargo a dirmi, per quale cagione, havete posseduto l’anima di questÆ poveretta; & vati ne via io ti adjuro, alia quei luogi, dionde tu sei venuto: I charge thee to shew me for what cause thou hast possessed the soule of this poore wretch, and I adjure thee to goe backe unto these places from whence thou camest. Meane while the woman stood dumbe and silent for the space of a quarter of an howre, not being usuall before: the people gave a shoute, and cry’d, the Divell had left her, whereat he that held her right arme did let it fall downe by her side: But by your leave, in the twinckling of an eye, the Divell in the woman gave the Frier such a rattle in the face, that he was stroke downe upon his backe among the people: And if it had not bene that she was borne downe with strength of hands, she had torne the silly old conjurer in peeces: crying, O false and dissembling knave, pretendest thou to have power to cast out evill Spirits, when thou thy selfe is in a worser case than I, and all thy profession too; Hell, hell, is your reward.

This is another of our Lady of Lorettaes Miracles, though many moe I could recite: As for any more vertue of this Cymberian image, I have knowne sicke folkes loaden with all kinde of diseases, criples, lame, maimed, deafe, dumbe, and numbers possessed with evill spirits lie here before this Lady, till I returned againe from Asia & Affrick, that same way: imploring, fasting and [I. 34.]penitentially weeping for health; But alas poore soules, they lost their labour. When they had both spent all their meanes, and perhaps the poorest of them three yeares attendance, and forced to my knowledge to returne againe to their severall stations with sorrowfull and comfortlesse hearts.

O strange and wonderfull frailty of men! what damnable imperfections domineere over their brain-sicke knowledge: Sathan, thou Prince of darkenesse, hast so over-sylled the dimmed eies of their wretched soules, that notwithstanding of Gods eternall word, ordained to call them through the spotlesse bloud of Christ Jesus; to be the heires and adopted sonnes of Salvation: yet thou all abhominable enemie of mankind, overthrowest both their spirituall and naturall understanding in a bottome­lesse Ocean of darke ignorance; promising to thy obdurate souldiers, to build Castles in the Ayre; and contrarywise is busie, digging downe dungeons, to welcome thy hellish eternized guests, with horrible torments, and never-ceasing flames of everlasting fire. What wilfull-hearted man can be so apt to believe, that our blessed Lady, had such estimation of morter and stones, as to have (although she had, had power) caused Angells to transport a rotten house so often? No, I say, beleeve it who so will; questionlesse, the Judgements of God in the trueth of his all-seeing Justice, shall reward their too credulous mindes accordingly; Then shall they know their foolish and superstitious errours.

But now to leave them with their Idolatry to stones, mettall, and Images, I come to their blasphemies against the sacred Deity: Looke to the workes of Bernardini de Busti, Bonaventure, and Fereolus Lucrius, how shamefully they derogate the glory from God, and attribute all grace, mercy and omnipotency, to the Virgin Mary. So [I. 35.]Ludolphus and Chrysostome affirme, that Velocior est non unquam salus invocato nomine MariÆ, quam invocato nomine Domini, vinci filii ejus: Men may oftentimes be sooner saved by calling on the Virgin Mary, than on Christ. Omnia quÆ Dei sunt, MariÆ sunt, quia mater & sponsa Dei illa est, all things which are Gods, are the Virgin Maries, because she is both the Spouse, and the mother of God, saith a Rabbin of theirs: and as many creatures honour the Virgin Mary, as honour the Trinity, saith another: So, Imperio Virginis, omnia famulantur & Deus, all creatures & God himselfe, are subject to the Virgin Maries command. And in their Bonaventure Ladies Psalter, Monstrate esse matrem, & coge illum peccatoribus misereri, Shew thy selfe a Mother, and compell him (viz. Christ) to have mercy upon sinners. Infinit citations could I produce, of such like intollerable The Virgin Mary divided in a thousand Ladies.attributs, besides the dividing of her in a 1000 stiles, viz. The Lady of the wines, Lady of the oyles, Lady of the cornes, Lady of the woods, Lady of the mountains, Lady of the meeds, Lady of the sheepe and goats, Lady of the springs, Lady of the fire, Lady of the shepheards; from earthquakes, thunder and fire-flashes, Lady of the Angels which is at Asisi in Ombria, Lady of miracles in divers places, Florence, &c. Lady of life in Bullogna newly found, Lady of all noble Ladies, and Nunnes, Lady of the galley-slaves, Lady of shipwracking seas, Lady of rivers and waters, Lady of young children, and orphanes, Lady of all consolation, Lady of pure Virgins, Lady of distressed widdows, Lady of the sicke, and women with child, &c. Besides the powerfull Lady of Mountserrata in Catalogna, the aforesayd miraculous Lady of Loretta, and the clementious Ile-ruling Lady of Trapundy in Sicilia, &c. Thus they make it manifest, [I. 36.]that Shee, that is Ladye of the one, is not Ladye of the other; each of them having divers gifts, divers graces, divers powers, as they alledge, divers Chappells, divers offerings, and divers pilgrimages, according to the severall seasons, eminent or past-perills, peculiar invocations, and the particular neede of each family, man woman and living creature.

Whereby it plainely appeareth, by their dividuall acknowledgements, she is neither superior in power, universall in power, nor equall in power to God: For if she were, one Chappell, one name, one place, one pilgrimage, one offering would suffice for all. They chatter over on their beads ten Ave Maries to our Lady, and but one Pater noster to Christ: They make their orations thrice a day in the streets to the Virgin, and none to God: they say God divided the Kingdome with the Virgin, reserving to himselfe Justice, graunted to his mother mercy, wherefore if any man be aggrieved with Gods Justice, he may appeale to the court of her mercy.

But to conclude their blasphemies, & horrible lies, blessed is the blessed Virgin Mary (the Mother of Christ according to the flesh) above all women for ever and ever.

Leaving both this and Loretta, and returning to my Ancona.purpose, James Arthur and I imbarked at Ancona, (15. miles from thence) in a Frigato; This City of Ancona, in the time of Trajanus the Emperour, flourished mightily in fame, and reputation, and yet a gallant place to this day;

It glories not a little in giving name to the whole province lying betweene Ombria and Romania, and is situate on a hill that shooteth into the sea like a promontore, having a faire haven built by Trajanus. It hath but one [I. 37.]gate, whence arose the proverbe, Un porto nel Ancona, un Petro nel Roma, e un Torre nel Cremona, One gate in Ancona, one Peter in Rome, and one Steeple in Cremona being exceeding high.

Along this Adriaticke Coast, I saw no remarkeable thing, save the two Cities Rimini and Ravenna: which were famous in the dayes of Octavius CÆsar, but now somewhat impoverished, in regard of divers incursions sustained, and shoaring along with them, the Duke of Urbines three sea-port Townes Sinigalia, Fanno and Pesaro, we sayled by the mouth of Rubicon, called now Pissatello (which Julius CÆsar passed over, against the ordinance of the Senate, and afterwards seazed upon Rome, putting Pompey to flight) I saw the place, where the bloudy battell was fought betweene the French and Spaniards, Anno Domini 1512. but the victory fell to the Gaules, with the losse of nineteene thousand men on every side, and they have erected singular Monuments there, in a perpetuall memory thereof. After three dayes sayling (having passed by Malamucko, which is the Haven of the great Venetian shippes) we arrived at St. Marks place in Venice.

Mine associate and I, were no sooner landed, and perceiving a great throng of people, and in the midst of them a great smoake; but we begun to demaund a Venetian what the matter was? who replied, there was A Gray Frier burned for villanous Lechering.a gray Frier burning quicke at S. Markes pillar, of the reformed order of S. Francis, for begetting fifteene young Noble Nunnes with child, and all within one yeare; he being also their Father confessor. Whereat, I sprung forward through the throng, and my friend followed me, and came just to the pillar as the halfe of his body and right arme fell flatlings in the fire; The Frier was forty [I. 38.]sixe yeares old, and had bene Confessor of that Nunnery of Sancta Lucia five yeares: Most of these young Nunnes were Senators daughters; and two of them were onely come in to learne vertue, and yet fell in the midst of vice.

These fifteene with child, were all re-cald home to their fathers Pallaces; the Lady Prioresse, and the rest of her voluptuous crew, were banished for ever from the precincts of Venice. The Monastery was razed to the ground, their rents were allowed to be bestowed upon poore families, and distressed age, and their Church to be converted to an Hospitall. Most part of all which M. Arthur and I saw, before ever we either eate, drunke, or tooke our lodging in Venice: And I cannot forget, how after all this, we being inhungred, and also over-joyed tumbled in by chance, Alla capello Ruosso, the greatest ordinary in all Venice, neare to which the Friars bones were yet a burning: And calling for a Chamber, we were nobly & richly served: After dinner they layd up our budgets and our burdons, and abroad went we to see the Citie: Night come, we supd, and supd alone: The chiefe Venetian Ordinery.The next morne, I begun to remarke the grandeur of the Inne, and saw it was time that we were gone: I demanded our dependant, what was to pay? he answered, Un scudo all huomo par ciascun ripasto, A Crowne the dyet for each of us, being ten Julets or five shillings starling: Mr. Arthur lookd upon me, and I laughd upon him: In a word our dinner and supper cost us 40. Juletts twenty shillings English; being foure Crownes, whereat my companion being discontented, bad the divell be in the Friars ballocks, for we had payd soundly for his Leachery: many like deaths, for like causes, and worser, have I seene in all my three voyages, if time could permit me to particularize them; But from this thou mayst play the [I. 39.]learned Geometrician till thou findest more.

Venice is a Garden of riches, and worldly pleasures the chiefe flowre of Common-weales, and the perfect, mirrour of civill and politicke Governement. This sequestrat Citty, is situate in the bosome of Neptune, and divided from the world, with a part of his maine body, which invironeth the Iland.

The territories of Venice.The Common-wealth of Venice, containeth Marcha del Trevisa, which lieth in Lombardy, containing these Cities, Trevisa, Padua, Vincenza, Verona, Briscia, the second City for bignesse and beauty in all Lombardy, Bergamo, Chiozza, and Rovigno. Friuli, formerly called Forum Julii, lieth in the straite betweene the East end of the Alpes, and the sea Adriaticke, in length fifty, & in bredth forty miles. It hath bene often subject to the vicissitude of fortune: The chiefe towne is Treista in the bottome of the gulfe, and Palma lately built by the Venetians 1583. being the most impregnable, and best fortified towne in Italy: Friuli was a Dukedome, founded by the Lombards at the beginning of the Venetian Common-wealth: Afterward Luitprandus one of the Dukes, envying the increase of the dominion of Venice, made war against them, which ended in the losse of his owne countrey. The rest be Istria, a part of Dalmatia, the Ilands Candy, Corfu, Zante, Cephalonia, Serigo, Tino, Val di Campare, Lesina, and others of lesser note.

The Venetians howsoever of old, they have bene great warriours; they are now more desirous to keepe, then inlarge their Dominions, and that by presents and money, [I. 40.]rather than by the sword or true valour; so that whatsoever they loose by battell, it is observed, they recover againe by treatise. The Venetians are sayd to have discended of the Hennets in Asia lesser, who assisting

the Trojans, and Troy being lost, their King Pterilimene slaine, they fled away with Antenor; and arriving in this part of Italy seated themselves, till the report of the Hunnes designe against Italy, made them, (avoyding the storme before it fell) to draw into these Ilands and The first plantation of Venice.Marishes, where now it standeth. It was first founded, and begun, Anno. 421. March 25. being distant from the maine land five miles, and defended against the fury of the sea, by a banke extending to fifty miles in length: Through which in eight places, there is passage broken for small boates, but no way for vessels of any burthen, save at Malamucco, and the castle of Lio: Yea, and so dangerous, that there is neither out-going nor in-comming, without a Pylot, which maketh the Citty unconquerable.

This Citty is seven miles in compasse, and from so base an abject beginning, it is growne (as it were) to be the chiefe bulwarke of Europe: The Duke of this Adriatick Queene, espouseth the sea, every Ascension day, by casting a golden ring into it. Which Stultitious ceremony by Pope Alexander the third was graunted, when he fled to Venice for succour, being persecuted by Fredericke Barbarossa: And the Venetians vanquishing Otho the Emperours sonne, restored the Pope, and for a reward, was honoured with this espousall.

The length of the Territory of Venice in Lombardy, lying along the foote and South side of the Alpes, amounteth to sixe score five miles: The breadth whereof in the planure is narrow, but stripeth larger among the hills and lakes, and very populous.

[I. 41.]The applauding Italian sayth, that Europe is the head of the World, Italy the face of Europe, and Venice the eye of Italy; and indeed, it is the strongest, and most active part of that powerfull body: Whereby it would appeare, that in the last subversion of the latter The Venetians are sprung of the Romans.Monarchy, the Romane Genius made a Pythagoricall transmigration into Venice; whose peace hath procured the plenty, and whose warres the peace of all Christendome. The lawes of this City permit not the younger sonnes of the best Gentry to marrie, least the number increasing should deminish the dignity: Yet neverthelesse they permit them unlawfull pleasures, and for their sakes allow publicke stewes. The Jewes here, and in Rome, weare red, and yellow hats for notice sake, to distinguish them from others: which necessary custome (would to God) were enjoyned to all the Papists here in England, so should we easily discerne them from the true Christians. And finally, to discourse upon the provision of their magnificent Arsenall, Artillery, Munition and Armor, the division of streetes with channels, the innumerable bridges of stone and timber, their accustomable kind of living, apparell, curtesies, and conventions; and finally, the glory of Gallants, Galleries, Gallies, Galleasses and Gallouns, were a thing impossible for me briefly to relate. Wherefore since the situation thereof, and the decorements of their beautifull Palaces, are so well knowne, and their generall customes by the better sort, I desist, concluding thus; this incomparable mansion is the onely Paragon of all Cities in the World.

Mine aforesaid Consort and I having spent ten dayes in viewing and reviewing this City and circumjacent Isles, and my purpose reaching for Greece and Asia, as his was to recrosse the snowy Alpes, my muse remembreth our sad departure.

In the time of my staying here, I went forth to Lombardy, and visited the famous Cities of Padua, Verona, and Ferrara. The commendation of which is celebrated in these verses:

In Padua I stayed three moneths learning the Italian tongue, and found there a Countrey Gentleman of mine, Doctor John Wedderburne a learned Mathametician, but now dwelling in Moravia, who taught me well in the language, and in all other respects exceeding friendly [I. 43.]to me. Padua is the most melancholy City of Europe, the cause onely arising of the narrow passage of the open streets, and of the long galleries and dark-ranges of pillars, that goe alwhere on every hand of you, through the whole streets of the Towne: The Schollers here in the night commit many murthers against their privat adversaries, and too often executed upon the stranger and innocent, and all with gun-shot or else stilettoes: for beastly Sodomy, it is as rife here as in Rome, Naples, Florence, Bullogna, Venice, Ferrara, Genoa, Parma not being exempted, nor yet the smallest Village of Italy: A monstrous filthinesse, and yet to them a pleasant pastime, making songs, and singing Sonets of the beauty and pleasure of their Bardassi, or buggerd boyes.

I commend the devotion of Venice and Genua, beyond all the other Cities of Italy; for the Venetians have banished the Jesuites out of their Territories and Ilands: A comparison of Jewes and Jesuits.And the Genueses have abandoned the society of Jewes, and exposed them from their jurisdiction. The Jewes and the Jesuites are brethren in blasphemies; for the Jewes are naturally subtill, hatefull, avaritious, and above all the greatest calumniators of Christs name: and the ambitious Jesuites, are flatterers, bloudy-gospellers, treasonable tale-tellers, and the onely railers upon the sincere life of good Christians. Wherefore I end with this verdict, the Jew and the Jesuite, is a Pultrone and a Parasite.