William Lithgow

Close bounded Hellespont, Earths Mother sport

I leave: longst the Æolid lists, I Smirna court:

Thence Samothrace, and Rhodos, I accoast,

Which Lilidamus Viliers, manly lost:

The Lycian bounds, and steepe Pamphilian shoares

I strictly view: The sea Carpathian roares,

I land at Cyprus: Seline is the place,

Whence I that Kingdome, to Nicosia trace:

[V. 171.]From Famagust, faire Asia, then I courted

And Libanon; whence Cedars were transported

For Sions temple: And my toyles to crowne

I sight great Aleppe, Syriaes Lady Towne:

Then passing Mesopotame; Chelfanes land,

I stay at Beershack, on Euphrates strand:

Thence backe by Damas, Arabie Petrea,

Galilee, Samaria, mountainous Judea

I toyling came: And at Jerusalem,

I lodg’d neere Moriah, in a Cloystred frame.

The Winter expired, & the Spring gone, time summoned me after three moneths repose, to imbrace the violence of a firy fac’d season: where having dutifully taken my Counge of many worthy friends, who both kindly, and respectively had used me; especially, the aforesayd English Ambassadour, Sir Thomas Glover: And the new Ambassadour, Sir Paul Pinder, who had lately arrived there before my departure, and had bene formerly Consull in Aleppo five yeares.

I left Constantinople, and imbarked in a Ship belonging to London, named the Allathya, whereof one Maister Wylds in Ratcliffe was Maister; where indeed both he and his Company kindly and respectively used me, for the space of twelve daies; being bound for Smyrna, and so we sayled along the coast of Bithinia in Asia minor.

Bithinia hath on the North Hellespont: On the West Phrigia; on the East Pontus: and on the South Capadocia or Leuco Syria: The chiefe Citties are Calcedon, where, by comaund of the Emperour Martianus, the fourth Generall Counsell was assembled, to repell the Heresie of Nestorius. Nigh unto the side of Hellespont is Mount [V. 172.]Stella, famous for that victory which Pompey had over Mithridates: And where Tamberlane with 800000. Tartarians incountred Bajazet, whose Army consisted of 500000. men; of which 200000. lost their lives that day: And Bajazet taken by Tamberlane.Bajazet being taken, was carried about in an Iron Cage on whose necke Tamberlane used to set his foote, when he mounted on horse-backe; and at last beate out his owne braines against the barres of the Iron Cage: the next Cities are Nicomedia; and Nyce, where the first Generall Councell was kept, Anno 314. to which there assembled 318. Bishops to beate downe the Arian Heresie. The other Townes are Prusa and Labissa; the former was built by Prusias King of Bithinia, who betrayed Hanniball when he fled to him for succour; in the latter Hanniball lyeth buried. Prusa was a long time the seate of the Ottoman Kings, till Mahomet the first began to keepe his Residence at Andrianople: The chiefe Rivers are Ascanius, Sangaro, and Granico, nigh unto which Alexander obtained the first victory against the Persians.

Having passed Bithinia, and the Phrigian coast, we fetched up Cenchrea, where Saint Paul cut his haire, after his vow was performed, Acts 18. 18. Being a Towne now inhabited by Greekes, with a Turkish Governour, and of small importance, in regard of other neighbouring places, that bereave them of their trafficke; and because the Jewes do not much frequent here: the Inhabitants are rather turned spectators to Vertue, than any way inherent to necessary goodnesse: Want of Strangers being one let, and vitious otiosity the other stop: This City standeth by the sea side in the North part of Ionia, but more truely on the West frontiers of Lydia. Lydia hath on the West Phrigia minor: on the South Ionia: on the East Paphlagonia, on the North-west Æolus, & a part of [V. 173.]Phrygia major. The chiefe Metropole is Sardis, once the Royall seat of Croesus the richest King in his time, who in his full prosperity, was told by Solon, that no man could reckon upon felicity so long as he lived, because there might be great mutability of Fortune, which afterward he found true: The recitall of which advertisement, when he was taken prisoner by Cyrus saved his life: The next City is Pergamus, where Parchment was first invented, and therefore called Pergamenum: here was Galen borne, who lived so healthfully one hundreth and forty yeares: the reason whereof, he thus affixeth; he never eate or drunke his full, & ever carried some sweete perfumes with him. The other Townes are Thyatira, Laodicea, and Philadelphia.

Upon the twelfth day after our departure from Constantinople, we arrived at Smirna, being foure hundreth miles distant.

The City of Smyrna.This City was one of the seven Churches mentioned Revelation 2. 8. And standeth in Ionia: of this place was the famous Martyr Polycarpus Bishop, who sometimes had bene Schollar to John the Evangelist: and living till he was of great age, was at last put to death for Christs sake. It is a goodly place, having a faire Haven for Ships: They have great trafficke with all Nations; especially for fine Silke, Cotten wooll, and Dimmety, brought to it by the Countrey Peasants, which straungers buy from them.

Truely, neare unto this City, I saw a long continuing plaine, abounding in Cornes, Wines, all sorts of fruitfull herbage, and so infinitely peopled, that methought Nature seemed, with the peoples industry to contend, the one by propagating creatures, the other by admirable agriculture.

That for Commodities and pleasure, it is little inferiour unto the valley of Suda in Candy, which maketh the [V. 174.]inhabitants wondrous insolent: for as mirth is made of Wealth is the brother of vice.pleasure, and with pleasures all vices are baited; even so there is not a more incorrigible creature then man in prosperity, nor so modest nor reformed an one, as he, to whom fortune hath lent but a sparing and crooked favour, which indeed I hold best of all: for it is the forming of the mind, not the tongue, nor hand, that can preferre us to true felicitie: And would to God that these, upon whome none but faire windes have ever blowne, in the carreire of their supposed happinesse, could but see for all their high and overtopping places, their end, and resting place: since they are nought but the arrowes of the omnipotent arme, that are yet flying not at theirs but his marke; and no more owners of their owne proposed ends, then they are guilty of their owne beginnings: surely they would cover their faces with another kind of maske then they do: and make their actions seeme more cleare, then the force of policie can obumbrate their wicked devices.

Thiatyra now called Tiria, one also of the seven Churches is not from Smirna above eighteene miles.

From this Citie (having left my kind English men and their stately ship that carryed 24. pieces of Ordonance,) I imbarked in a Turkish Carmoesalo, that carried nothing but her loading, being bound for Rhodes. In our sayling along the coast of Ionia, the first place of any note I saw, was Ephesus decayed.the ruinous Citie of Ephesus; yet somewhat inhabited with Greekes, Jewes, and a few Turkes; but no waies answerable to its former glory and magnificence, being rather a monument for memory, then a continuing Towne of any excellency: neverthelesse it is pleasantly adorned with Gardens, faire fields, and greene woods of Olive trees, which on the Sea doe yeeld a delectable prospect: It was one of the seaven Churches, Revel. 2. 1. This [V. 175.]was one of the most renowned Cities in Asia the lesser but the same thereof arose from the Temple of Diana: which for the spaciousnesse, furniture, and magnificent workmanship was accounted one of the seven worlds wonders: It was two hundred yeares in building, being foure hundred twenty five foote long, and two hundred broad: It was seven severall times burnt, whereof the most part was with lightning, and lastly the finall destruction of it, came by a base fellow Erostratus, who to purchase himselfe a name, Dianaes Temple burnt.did set it on fire. Timothy was Bishop of Ephesus, to the people whereof, Saint Paul directed one of his Epistles, and finally it is famous for the buriall of Saint John the Evangelist: It was said of this place, in the Acts of the Apostles, that all Asia, and the whole world did worship here Diana: Tully reporteth, De natura Deorum, that TimÆus being demanded the reason why the Temple of Diana was set on fire that night, when Alexander the great was borne: gave this jest thereof, that the Mistresse of it was from home; because she being the Goddesse of Midwives, did that night wait upon Olimpias the mother of Alexander the great, who was brought to bed in Macedonia.

The Ile Lango or Cuos.Over against this Citie is the Ile Lango, aunciently called Coos, wherein the great Hippocrates was borne, and Appelles, the Painter most excellent. It is both fertile, and populous, and of circuite above fourescore miles. There is a kind of Serpent said to be in it, so friendly unto the Inhabitants, that when the men are sleeping under the shadow of trees, they come cralling, and will lincke or claspe themselves about their neckes and bodies, without doing any harme, neither when they awake are the beasts affraid.

And neare to Lango, is the Ile Nixa, of old Strangoli; [V. 176.]and by some called Dronisa and Naxus, an Iland both fruitfull and delightfull. As we sailed by the West part of the Ile, a Greekish passenger shewed me the place, where (as he sayd) Ariadne was deceived of Theseus, which is not farre from the irriguate plaine of Darmille.

Continuing our Navigation, I saw the little Ile Ephdosh, where the Turkes told me, that all the Ilanders were Excellent swimmers.naturally good swimmers, paying no more tribute to their great Lord the Turke, save onely once in the yeare there are certaine men, and women chosen by a Turkish Captaine, who must swimme a whole league right out in the Sea, and goe downe to the bottome of the waters, to fetch thence some token they have got ground: And if they shall happen to faile in this, the Iland will be reduced againe to pay him yearely rent. This I saw with mine eyes, whiles we being calmed, there came a man and two women swimming to us, more then a mile of way, carrying with them (drie above the water) baskets of fruite to sell, the which made me not a little to wonder. For when they came to the ships side, they would neither boord, nor boat with us, but lay leaning, or as it were resting them selves on the sea, upon their one side, and sold so their fruits: keeping complements and discourses with us above an houre. Contenting them for their ware, and a fresh gale arising, we set forward, accoasting the little Ile of Samothracia.

Samothracia.This Ile of Samothracia, was called of old Dardania, and now by the Turkes Samandracho; a place of small note considering the quantity of the Ile, and the few number of Inhabitants: their lives being answerable to their meannes; ignorance and servitude; two strong commanders of infirme weaklings, and no lesse powerfull, then [V. 177.]they are debile in the debt of worthinesse; which the younglings of understanding, & sucklings of far look’d-to knowledge, can never be able to escape, although a true profession covereth many naturall imperfections; and in it a hope for blessednes, which indeed moe wish for, then rightly understand it. And upon the ninth day after our departure from Smyrna, we arrived at the City of Rhodes, so called of the Iland wherein it standeth.

Rhodes lieth in the Carpathian Sea. It was of old called The Ile of Rhodes.Ithrea, Telchino, and Phiula: Plinie saith it was called Rhodes, because there were certaine fields of Roses in it; for Rhodos in the Greeke tongue signifieth a Flower: Not farre from the City, and at the entery of the Haven, The Idoll Collossus.I saw the relicts of that huge, and admiredly erected Idoll, named Colossus Rhodius, or the mighty image of the Sunne; which was made in honour thereof: from the which Saint Paul termed the Inhabitants Collossians. It was builded by the worthy Canete Lindo in the space of twelve yeares: others have said, of Callasses the Disciple of Lisippus, taking the name Collossus of him, and it was thought worthy to be one of the seven earthly wonders, and so it might justly have beene: The quantity whereof (as yet) may amaze the minde of the beholder: It was erected in the Image of a man, being eighty cubits high, and so bigge, that the little finger of it was as bigge as an ordinary man: between whose legs, (it standing in the harbours mouth, with a legge on each side of the entery) Shippes were wont to passe under with taunt sayles: When Mnavi Generall of Caliph Osmen first united this Ile to the Mahometan Empire, and broke downe the greatest part of this statue; the brasse whereof was said to be so much that it loaded nine hundred Camells.

This Ile belonged once to the Knights of Malta, and [V. 178.]were then surnamed Knights of the Rhodes, but they came first out of Acre in the Holy Land; who were called Knights of St. John; who viriliously expulsed the Saracens from thence, Anno 1308. who had formerly taken it from the devided Grecians: These Knights sorely invested the Turkes for the space of two hundred yeares, till Solyman the magnificent, at last invaded and subdued it: The Rhodians were ever great friends to the Romanes, insomuch that when all the other Mediterranean Ilands revolted to Mithridates of Pontus, this onely adhered to the Romanes.

This Ile of Rhodes within the space of 25. yeares was three times mightily indangered by violent and extreame Inundation of waters.impetuosities of raine: in such sort that the last flood did drowne the greatest part of the Inhabitants: which beginning in the Spring-time, did continue to Summer, and in all this time, it broke violently downe their houses, and in the night killed the people lying in their beds; and in the day time such as were sheltered under safegard of their dwellings: which was a miserable destruction, and the like of it scarcely heard of since the universall deludge.

But true it is, as these ominous judgements falling upon particular parts & parcells of people, are justly executed; yet they serve for Caveats for all others in generall, (sinne being the originall of all) to take heed of offending the Creator, in abusing the best use of the Creature.

The Citie of Rhodes hath two strong Fortresses, in one of which these Knights (Lilladamus Villiers being great Master, who were about five hundred onely, and five thousand Rhodians who asisted them) were besieged by an Armie of two hundred thousand Turkes, and three hundred Galleys, for the space of sixe months. The chiefe [V. 179.]obstacle, and impeaching of so great an Army from taking it, was onely the resolute valour of the defendants. But in end multitude overmastring valour, and the Cavalieri di Rhodo, wanting furniture to their munition, and being penurious of victuals, were constrayned to render, upon the conditionall safety of their lives, goods, and transportation; and remained a long time without any habitation, till the King of Spaine gave them the barren Ile of Malta to inhabite: This Ile of Rhodes was lost by the Maltezes, Anno Dom. 1522. Rhodes taken by Solyman.And on Christmas day Solyman entred the Towne as conquerour, though he might justly have said (as Pyrhus once said of his victory over the Romanes) that such another victory would utterly have undone him; he lost so many of his bravest Commanders, and best Souldiers. It is ever since in the fruition of Turkes: The Fortresse of Rhodes, and that Fortresse Famogusta, in Cyprus, are the two strongest holds, in all the Empire of the great Turke.

And by the way here I must record, that if the great Turke, and his great Counsell, were not good pay-masters to their Janizaries, and speedy rewarders of their common Souldiers; it were impossible for him the Emperour, or them the Bassawes to menage so great a state, and to keepe under obedience so head-strong a multitude, & such turbulent forces: for by your leave, Souldiers should be regarded & rewarded.if a Souldiers industry be not quickned and animated with bountifull rewards; he hath lesse will to performe any part of Martiall service; then a dead coarse hath power to arise out of the grave: for what can be more precious to man, then his blood, being the fountaine & nurse of his vitall spirits, & the ground of his bodily substance; which no free or ingenious nature wil hazard to lose for nothing.

[V. 180.]And whosoever shall argument or discourse upon sound reason, and infallible experience, may easily prove and perceive, that these Commanders have ever best prospered, which have most liberally maintayned, and had in singular regard, Military Arts and Souldiers; otherwise the honourable mind, would account it a great deale better to have death without life, then life without reward: yea, and the noble Commander, desiring rather to want, then to suffer worth unrecompensed.

Rhodes joyneth neare to the continent, over against Caria, now called Carmania, under which name the Turkes comprehend Pamphilia, Ionia, and Lycia: Caria by the Sea side, hath Lycia to the South, and Caria to the North: The chiefe Cities are Manissa, and Mindum, which having great gates, being but a small Towne, made Diogenes the Cynick crie out. Yee Citizens of Mindum, take heed, that your City run not out of your gates: The third is Hallicarnasso, where Dionisius was borne, who writ the History of Rome for the first three hundred yeares: Of which Towne also the Province tooke the name; for Artemisia, who ayded Xerxes against the Grecians, was by some Authors named Queene of Hallicarnasso. This was she, Mausolaos Tombe.who in honour of her husband Mausolao, built that curious Sepulcher, accounted for one of the worlds wonders; it being twenty five cubits high, and supported with thirty sixe admirable wrought pillars.

After I had contented the Master for my fraught, and victuals (who as he was an Infidell, used me with great exaction) I found a Barke of the Arches purposed to Cyprus, with the which I imbarked, being foure hundred miles distant.

This Tartareta, or Demi galleyeot, belonged to the Ile of Stagiro, aunciently Thasia, wherein there were [V. 181.]mines of gold, in these times that afforded yearely to Philip King of Macedon, about fourescore talents of gold, but now mightily impoverished and of no consequence: The chiefe Towne whereof is Palmapreto, where diverse Greekes hold the opinion, Homer was interred, having a famous Sea-port, which is a common resting place for all the Orientall Pirats or Cursaroes; which maketh the Ile halfe desolate of people; and these few scarce worthy of their dwellings.

Pamphilia & Lycia.Having past the gulfe of Sattelia, and the Ile Carpathia, whence that part of the Sea taketh his name: we boorded close along the coast of Lycia, and the firme land of fruitfull Pamphilia; the chiefe Citie of Lycia is Patras, watred with the river Zanthus, whence the people were called Zanthi, afterward Lycians of Lycus sonne to Pandion: It lieth twixt Caria and Pamphilia, as Pamphilia lyeth betweene it and Cilicia: The chiefe Towne in Pamphilia is Seleucia, built by Seleucus, one of Alexanders successours: on the East of Lycia within land bordreth Lycaonia, &c. Having left Pamphilia behind us, we fetched up the coast of Cylicia, sustaining many great dangers, both of tempestuous stormes, and invasions of damnable Pirats, who gave us divers assaults to their owne disadvantages; our saylage being swifter, then either their swallowing desires could follow, or our weake and inresolute defence could resist.

Here in this Countrey of Cilicia, was Saint Paul borne in the now decayed Towne of Tharsus, who for antiquity will not succumbe to any City of Natolia, being as yet the Mistresse of that Province, though neither for worth, nor wealth.

Twelve dayes was I betweene Rhodes and Limisse in The description of Cyprus.Cyprus; where arrived, I received more gracious demonstrations from the Ilanders, then I could hope for, or wish, being farre beyond my merit or expectation; onely contenting my curiosity with a quiet mind, I redounded thankes for my imbraced courtesies.

The people are generally strong and nimble, of great civility, hospitality to their neighbours, and exceedingly affectionated to strangers. The second day after my arrival, I tooke with me an Interpreter, and went to see Nicosia, which is placed in the midst of the Kingdome. But in my journey thither, extreame was the heate and thirst I endured; both in respect of the season, and also want of water: And although I had with me sufficiency of Wine, yet durst I drinke none thereof, being so strong, and withall had a tast of pitch; and that is, because they have no barrels, but great Jarres made of earth, wherein their Wine is put. And these Jarres are all inclosed within the ground save onely their mouthes, which stand alwayes open like to a Source or Cisterne; whose insides are all interlarded with pitch to preserve the earthen vessells unbroke a sunder, in regard of the forcible Wine; yet making the taste thereof unpleasant to liquorous lips; and turneth the Wine, too headdy for the braine in digestion, which for health groweth difficult to strangers; and to themselves a swallowing up of diseases.

Nicosia is the principall Citie of Cyprus, and is invironed with mountaines, like unto Florence in Ætruria; The sixe Cities of Cyprus.wherein the Beglerbeg remaineth: The second is Famegusta, the chiefe strength and Sea-port in it: Selina, Lemisso, Paphos, and Fontana Morosa, are the other foure speciall Townes in the Iland.

This Ile of Cyprus was of old called Achametide, Amatusa, and by some Marchara, that is happy: It is of length extending from East to West, 210. large 60. and of circuit 600. miles. It yeeldeth infinite canes of Sugar, Cotten-wooll, Oyle, Honney, Cornes, Turpentine, Allum, Verdegreece, Grogranes, store of Mettals and Salt; besides all other sorts of fruit and commodities in abundance. It was also named Cerastis, because it butted toward the East with one horne: and lastly Cyprus, from the abundance of Cypresse trees there growing. This Iland was consecrated to Venus, where in Paphos she was greatly honoured, termed hence, Dea Cypri,

Cyprus lyeth in the gulfe betweene Cilicia and Syria, having Ægypt to the West: Syria to the South: Cilicia to the East: and the Pamphilian Sea to the North: It hath foure chiefe Capes or headlands: first, Westward the Promontore of Acanias, modernely Capo di Santo Epifanio: to the South the Promontore PhÆuria, now Capo Bianco: to the East Pedasia, modernely Capo di [V. 184.]Greco: to the North, the high foreland of Cramineon, now Capo di Cormathita: these foure are the chiefest Promontores of the Iland, and Cape di S. Andrea is the furthest poynt Eastward toward Cilicia: Diodore and Pliny say that anciently it contained nine Kingdomes, and fifteene good Townes: Cerania, now Selina, was built by Cyrus, who subdued the nine petty Kings of this Ile: Nicosia is situate in the bottome or plaine of Massara, and thirty foure miles from Famagusta; and the Towne of Famagusta was formerly named Salamus: I was informed by some of sound experience here, that this Kingdome containeth about eight hundreth and forty Villages, besides the sixe capitall Townes, two whereof are nothing inferiour for greatnesse and populosity to the best Townes in Candy, Sicily, or Greece.

Trohodos a huge hill in Cyprus.The chiefest and highest mountaine in this Ile, is by the Cypriots called Trohodos, it is of height eight, and of compasse forty eight miles, whereon there are a number of Religious Monasteries, the people whereof are called Colieros, and live under the order of Saint Basile. There is abundance here of Coriander seede, with medicinable Reubarbe, and Turpentine. Here are also mines of gold in it, of Chrysocole, of Calthante, of Allome, Iron, and exceeding good Copper. And besides these mines, there are diverse precious stones found in this Ile, as Emeraulds, Diamonds, Chrystall, Corall, red and white, and the admirable stone Amiante, whereof they make Linnen cloth, that will not burne being cast into the fire, but serveth to make it neate and white.

The greatest imperfection of this Ile, is scarcity of water, and too much plenty of scorching heate, and fabulous grounds. The Inhabitants are very civill, courteous, and affable; and notwithstanding of their [V. 185.]delicious and delicate fare, they are much subject to Melancholy, of a Robust nature, and good Warriours, if they might carry Armes: It is recorded, that in the time of Constantine the Great, this Ile was all uterly abandoned of the Inhabitants, and that because it did not raine for the space of sixe and thirty yeares. After which time, and to Cyprus replanted.replant this Region againe, the chiefest Colonies came from Ægypt, Judea, Syria, Cilicia, Pamphilia, Thracia, and certaine Territories of Greece: And it is thought, in the yeares 1163. after that Guy of Lusingham, the last Christian King of Jerusalem had lost the Holy Land, a number of French men, stayed and inhabited here; of whom sprung the greatest race of the Cyprian Gentility; and so from them are discended the greatest Families of the Phenician Sydonians, modernely Drusians: though ill divided, and worse declined; yet they are sprung both from one Originall: the distraction arising from Conscience of Religion, the one a Christian, the other a Turke.

The three Iles of Cyprus, Candy, and Sicily, are the onely Monarchicke Queenes of the Mediterranean Seas: Comparisons of Iles.and semblable to other in fertility, length, breadth, and circuit: save onely Candy that is somewhat more narrow then the other two, and also more Hilly and sassinous: yet for Oyles and Wines, she is the Mother of both the other: Sicily being for Graine and Silkes the Empresse of all: and Cyprus for Sugar and Cotton-wooll, a darling sister to both; onely Sicily being the most civill Ile, and nobly gentilitat, the Cypriots indifferently good, and the Candiots the most ruvid of all.

The chiefe Rivers are Teno, and Pedesco: Cyprus was first by Teucer made a Kingdome, who after the Trojane Warre came and dwelt here: and afterward being divided [V. 186.]betweene nine petty Princes, it was subdued by Cyrus, the first Monarch of the Meedes and Persians. After the subversion of which Empire, this Ile was given to the Potolomies of Ægypt: from whom Cato conquered it to the benefit of the Romans. The Dukes of Savoy were Kings of Cyprus.The Dukes of Savoy were once Kings of Cyprus; but the Inhabitants usurping their authority, elected Kings to themselves, of their owne generation: and so it continued, till the last King of Cyprus, James the Bastard (marrying with the daughter of a noble Venetian, Catherina Cornaro) died without children, leaving her his absolute heire. And she perceiving the factious Nobility, too headstrong to be bridled by a female authority, like a good child, resigned her Crowne and Scepter to the Venetian Senate, Anno 1473. Whereupon the Venetians imbracing the opportunitie of time, brought her home, and sent Governours thither to beare sway in their behalfe; paying onely as tribute to the Ægyptian Sultans 40000. Crownes, which had been due ever since Melecksala, had made John of Cyprus his tributary.

It was under their Jurisdiction 120. yeares and more; till that the Turkes, who ever oppose themselves against Christians (finding a fit occasion in time of peace, and without suspition in the Venetians) tooke it in with a great Armado. Anno 1570. and so till this day by them is detayned. Oh great pitty! that the usurpers of Gods word, and the worlds great enemy, should maintaine (without feare) that famous Kingdome, being but one thousand & fifty Turkes in all, who are the keepers of it: unspeakable is the calamitie of that poore afflicted Christian people under the terrour of these Infidels; who would, if they had Armes, or asistance of any Christian Potentate, easily subvert and abolish the Turkes, without [V. 187.]any disturbance; yea, and would render the whole Signiory thereof to such a noble Actor. I doe not see in that small judgement, which by experience I have got, but the redemption of that Countrey were most facile; if that the generous heart of any Christian Prince, would be moved with condigne compassion to relieve the miserable aflicted Inhabitants. In which worke, he should reape (questionlesse) not onely an infinite treasure of Worldly commodities, that followeth upon so great a conquest, but also a heavenly and eternall reward of immortall glory. The Florentines attempted to conquer Cyprus.The which deliverance Ferdinando Duke of Florence, thought to have accomplished (having purchased the good will of the Ilanders) with five Gallounes, and 5000. Souldiers: Who being mindfull to take first in the Fortresse of Famogusta, directed so their course, that in the night, they should have entred the Haven, disbarke their men, and scale the walles.

But in this plot they were farre disappointed by an unhappy Pilot of the Vice-admirall, who mistaking the Port, went into a wrong bay: which the Florentines considering, resolved to returne, and keepe the sea, till the second night; but by a dead calme, they were frustrated of their aymes, and on the morrow discovered by the Castle: Whereupon the Turkes went presently to armes, & charged the Inhabitants to come to defend that place: But about foure hundred Greekes in the West part, at Paphos, rebelled; thinking that time had altered their hard fortunes, by a new change: but alas, they were prevented, & every one cut off by the bloody hands of the Turkes. This massacre was committed in the yeare 1607. Such alwaies are the torturing flames of Fortunes smiles, that he who most affecteth her, she most, and altogether deceiveth: But they who trust in the Lord, shall be as [V. 188.]stable as Mount Syon, which cannot be removed; and questionlesse, one day God, in his all-eternall mercie, will relieve their miseries, and in his just judgements, recompence these bloody oppressors with the heavy vengeance of his all-seeing Justice.

In my returne from Nicosia, to Famogusta, with my Trench-man, we encountered by the way with foure Turkes, who needs would have my Mule to ride upon; which my Interpreter refused: But they in a revenge, pulled me by thee heeles from the Mules backe, beating me most pittifully, and left me almost for dead. In this meanewhile my companion fled, and escaped the sceleratnesse of their hands; and if it had not beene for some compassionable Greekes, who by accident came by, and relieved me, I had doubtlesse immediately perished.

Here I remember betweene this Ile and Sydon that same Summer, there were five galleouns of the Duke of A sea cumbat.Florence, who encountred by chance the Turkes great Armado consisting of 100. gallies, 14. galleots, and two galleasses: The Admirall of which ships did single out her selfe from the rest, and offered to fight with the whole Armado alone; but the Turkes durst not, and in their flying backe, the Admirall sunke two of their gallies; and had almost seazed upon one of their galleasses, if it had not beene for 20. gallies, who desperatly adventured to row her away against the wind and so escaped.

For true it is, the naturall Turkes were never skilfull in menaging of Sea battells, neither are they expert Mariners, nor experimented Gunners, if it were not for our Christian Runnagates, French, English, and Flemings, and they too sublime, accurate, and desperate fellowes; who have taught the Turkes the airt of navigation, and especially the use of munition; which they both cast to [V. 189.]them, & then become their chiefe Cannoniers; the Turkes would be as weake and ignorant at sea, as the silly Æthiopian, is unexpert in handling of armes on the Land. Christiane Runagates.For the private humour of discontented castawayes is alwaies an enemy to publicke good, who from the society of true beleevers, are driven to the servitude of Infidells, and refusing the bridle of Christian correction, they receive the double yoake of dispaire and condemnation. Whose terrour of a guilty conscience, or rather blazing brand of their vexed soules, in forsaking their Faith, and denying Christ to be their Saviour, ramverts most of them, either over in a torment of melancholy, otherwise in the extasie of madnesse: which indeed is a torturing horrour, that is sooner felt then knowne; and cannot be avoided by the rudenesse of nature, but by the saving grace of true felicity.

The City of Tripoly.From the Fort and City Famogusta, I imbarked in a Germo, and arrived at Tripoly being 88. miles distant, where I met with an English ship called the Royall Exchange of London, lying there at Anker in the dangerous Road of Tripoly, whose loves I cannot easily forget, for at my last good night, being after great cheare, and greater carrousing, they gave me the thundring farewell of three pieces of Ordonance. Tripoly is a City in Syria, standing a mile from the marine side, neere to the foot of Mount Libanus: since it hath beene first founded, it hath three times beene situated, and removed in three sundry places: First it was overwhelmed with water: Secondly, it was sacked with Cursares, and Pirates: Thirdly, it is like now to be overthrowne with new made mountaines of sand: There is no haven by many miles neere unto it, but a dangerous roade, where often when Northerly winds blow, ships are cast away.

[V. 190.]Scanderona.The great Traffique which now is at this place, was formerly at Scanderona or Alexandretta, a little more Eastward; but by reason of the infectious ayre, that corrupted the bloud of strangers, proceeding of two high Mountaines; who are supposed to be a part of Mount Caucasus, which withhold the prospect of the Sunne from the In-dwellers, more then three howers in the morning. So that in my knowledge, I have knowne dye in one ship, and a moneths time, twenty Marriners: for this cause the Christian ships were glad to have their commodities brought to Tripoly, which is a more wholesome and convenient place.

The dayly interrogation I had here, for a Carravans departure to Aleppo, was not to me a little fastidious, being mindfull to visite Babylon: In this my expectation I tooke purpose, with three Venetian Merchants, to go see the Cedars of Libanon, which was but a dayes journey thither. As we ascended upon the mountaine, our ignorant guide mistaking the way, brought us in a Laborinth of dangers; Insomuch that wrestling amongst intricate paths of Rockes: two of our Asses fell over a banke, and broke their neckes: And if it had not bene for a Christian Amaronite, who accidently encountred with us, in our wilesome wandring, we had bene miserably lost: both in regard of Rockes, and heapes of snow we passed; and also of great Torrents, which fell downe with force, from the steepy tops: wherein one of these Merchants was twice almost drowned. When we arrived The Cedars of Libanus.to the place where the Cedars grew, we saw but twenty foure of all, growing after the manner of Oke-trees, but a great deale taler, straighter, and greater, and the braunches grow so straight, and interlocking as though they were kept by Arte. And yet from the Roote to the [V. 191.]toppe they beare no boughes, but grow straight upward, like to a Palme-tree; who as may-poles invelope the ayre, so their circle spred tops, do kisse or enhance the lower cloudes; making their grandure over-looke the highest bodies of all other aspiring trees: and like Monarchick Lyons to wild beasts, they become the chiefe Champions of Forrests and Woods.

Although that in the dayes of Salomon, this mountaine was over-clad with Forrests of Cedars, yet now there are but onely these, and nine miles Westward thence, seventeene more. The nature of that tree is alwayes greene, yeelding an odoriferous smell, and an excellent kind of fruite like unto Apples, but of a sweeter taste, and more wholesome in digestion. The Rootes of some of these Cedars are almost destroyed by Sheepheards, who have made fires thereat, and holes wherein they sleepe; yet neverthelesse they flourish greene above in the tops, and branches. The length of this mountaine is about forty miles, reaching from the West, to the East: and continually, Summer and Winter, reserveth Snow on the tops. It is also beautified with all the ornaments of nature, as Herbage, Tillage, Pastorage, Fructiferous Trees, fine Fountaines, good Cornes, and absolutely the best Wine that is bred on the earth. The Prince of Libanus.The Signior thereof is a Freeholder, by birth a Turke, and will not acknowledge any superiour, being the youngest sonne of the Emeere or Prince of Sidon, who when his Father revolted against Achmet, and not being able to make his owne part good, fled into Italy, to the Duke of Florence: And notwithstanding that the elder brother yeelded up Sidon, and became a pardond subject to the great Turke: yet this the other brother would never yeeld nor surrender, himselfe, the Fort, nor the Signiory of Libanus: The olde [V. 192.]Prince his father after two yeares exile, was restored againe to his Emperours favour; with whom in my second Travels, both at Lygorne and Messina in Sicilee, I rancountred: whence the Duke of Sona that Kingdomes Viceroy, caused transport him on a stately ship for the Levant to Sidon: The Sidonians or Drusians, were first of all French men, who after their expulsion from Jerusalem, fled hither to the borders of Zebulon and Nephtalim, now called Phenicia, as I shall make more cleere afterwards.

The most part of the inhabited villages are Christians, Nestorians.called Amaronites, or Nostranes, quasi Nazaritans, and are governed by their owne Patriarke. There are none at this day, do speake the Syriack tongue, save onely these people of mount Libanus; and in that language the Alcoran of Mahomet is written. The kinde Amaronite whom we met, and tooke with us for our best guide, in descending from the Cedars shewed us many caves and Holes in Rockes, where Coliers, religious Siriens and Amaronites abide: Amongst these austere Cottages, I saw Joshuas Tombe.a faire Tombe all of one stone, being 17. foote of length; which (as he said) was the Sepulcher of the valiant Joshua, who conducted the people of Israel to the land of promise.

The Mahometans esteeme this to be a holy place, and many resort to it in Pilgrimage, to offer up their Satanicall Prayers to Mahomet. I saw upon this Mountaine, a sort of fruite, called Amazza Franchi: that is, The death of Christians; because when Italians, and others of Europe, eate any quantity thereof, they presently fall into the bloudy fluxe, or else ingender some other pestilentious fever, whereof they dye.

The Patriarke did most kindly entertaine us at his [V. 193.]house; so did also all the Amaronites of the other Villages, who met us in our way before we came to their Townes, and brought presents with them of Bread, Wine, Figges, Olives, Sallets, Capons, Egges, and such like, as they could on a sudden provide.

The Bishop of Eden on Libanus.This Bishop or Patriarkes house, is joyned with and hembd in, within the face of an high Rocke, that serveth for three sides thereof, the fore and fourth part being onely of Mason-worke: Neare unto which falleth precipitatly a great Torrent over the sassinous banke, that maketh a greivous noyse night and day: which as I told him, me thought it should turne the Bishop Surdo or starke deafe: But the homely and simple man (not puft with ambition greed, and glorious apparrell, like to our proud Prelats of Christendome) told me, that continuall custome brought him to despose upon the day, and sleepe better in the night, because of the sounding waters. Where reposing with him one night, my Muse the next morning saluted Libanus with these lines.

The Nestorian paradice.About the Village of Eden, is the most fruitfull part of all Libanus, abounding in all sorts of delicious fruits. True it is, the variety of these things, maketh the silly people thinke, the Garden of Eden was there: By which allegeance, they approve the apprehension of such a sinistrous opinion with these arguments, that Mount Libanus is sequestrate from the circum-jacent Regions, and is invincible for the height, and strengths they have in Rocks; and that Eden was still reedified by the fugitive Inhabitants, when their enemies had ransacked it: Also they affirme before the deluge it was so nominate, and after the flood it was repaired againe by Japhet, the sonne of Noah, who builded Joppa, or Japhta in Palestina. Loe there are the reasons they shew strangers for such like informations.

The Georgians Paradice.

There are with this one, other two supposed places of the earthly Paradice: The one is by the Turkes, and some ignorant Georgians, holden to be at Damascus, for the beauty of faire fields, gardens, and excellent fruits there; [V. 195.]especially for the tree called The Tree Mouslee.Mouslee, which they beleeve hath growne there since the beginning of the world. Indeed it is a rare and singular tree, for I saw it at Damascus, and others also of the same kind, upon Nylus in Ægypt: The growth whereof is strange: for every yeare in September it is cut downe hard by the roote, and in five moneths the tree buddeth up a pace againe, bringing forth leaves, flowers, and fruite. The leafe thereof is of such a breadth, that three men may easily stand under the shadow of it, and the Apple is bigger then a foot-ball, which is yearely transported for Constantinople to the great Turke; and there is reserved for a relict of the fruit of the forbidden tree; whence he surstyles himselfe keeper of the earthly Paradice.

But if he were not surer a greater commander and reserver of a large part of the best bosome of the earth, than he is keeper of that Adamian Garden; his styles of the earth, and mine of the world, were both alike, and that were just nothing, save onely this, two naked creatures living amongst naked people: or otherwise, if it were to be kept or seene, certainely I would wish to be a Postillion, to the great Porter, the Turke, but not his Pedagog, farre lesse his Pilgrime.

The Chelfane Paradice.The third place by the Chelfaines, is thought to be in the East part of Mesopotamia, neere to the joyning of Tygris, and Euphrates; where, so they inhabite: I have oft required of these Chelfaines, what reason they had for this conceived opinion: who answered me, they received it from time to time, by the tradition of their Ancestors: And because of the river Euphrates, and other rivers mentioned in the Scriptures, which to this day, detayne their names in that Countrey. Some hold, that Garden of Eden extended over all the earth. But contrariwise, [V. 196.]it manifestly appeareth by the second Chapter of Genesis, 2. 20. that this garden, that we call Paradice, wherein Adam was put to dresse it, was a certaine place on earth, containing a particular portion of a Countrey, called Eden, which boundeth on the river Euphrates. To this, and all the rest, I answer, no certainty can be had of the place where Eden was, either by reading or travelling, because this river hath beene oft divided in sundry streames: And it is said, that Cyrus, when he wonne Babylon, did turne the maine channell of Euphrates to another course. But howsoever, or wheresoever it be, I resolve my selfe, no man can demonstrate the place, which God for the sinnes and fall of man, did not onely accurse; but also the whole face of the earth.

Many ancient Authors have agreed with the opinion of Plato and Aristotle, constantly affirming, that mountaines, Ilands, and Countries, have received great alteration by Violence of Seas & waters.the inundation of Rivers, and violence of raging Seas. Thracia, hath beene divided from Bithinia: Nigroponti, from Thessalia: Corfu, from Epire: Sicilia, from Italy: The Iles Orcades, from Scotland, and many other Ilands, and Countries cut through so in divisions after the same forme. Wherefore the more a man contemplate to search the knowledge of Eden, and such high misteries (appertaining onely to the Creator) the more he shall faile in his purpose, offend God, become foolish, and fantasticall for his paines.

But to turne backe to mine itinerary relation, after my returne to Tripoly, I departed thence Eastward, with a Caravan of Turkes to Aleppo, being ten dayes journey distant. In all this way (leaving Scanderon on our left hand) I saw nothing worthy remarking; save onely a few scattered Villages, and poore miserable people called Turcomani, living in Tents, and following their flockes [V. 197.]to whom I payed sundry Caffars who remove their women, children, and cattell where so they finde fountaines, and good pastorage: like unto the custome of the ancient Israelites: Which in their vagabonding fashion, did plainely demonstrate the necessity they had to live, rather then any pleasure they had, or could have in their living.

They differ also in Religion from all the other Mahometans in two damnable points: The Turcomans opinion of God & the Divell.The one is, they acknowledge, that there is a God, and that he of him selfe is so gracious, that he neither can, being essentially good doe harme, nor yet will authorize any ill to be done, and therefore more to be loved than feared: The other is, they confesse there is a Divell, and that he is a tormentor of all evill doers: and of himselfe so terrible and wicked, that they are contented even for acquisting his favour and kindnesse, to sacrifice in fire their first borne child to him: soliciting his divellishnes, not to torment them too sore when they shall come into his hands: And yet for all this, they thinke afterwards by the mercy of Mahomet, they shall goe from hell to Paradice.

In this immediate or aforesayd passage, we coasted neare and within sixe miles of the limits of Antiochia, Antiochians the first Christians.one of the ancient Patriarch seas; so called of Antiochus her first founder, and not a little glorying to this day, that the Disciples of Jesus and Antiochians were first here named Christians. Who (nothwithstanding) of their grievous afflictions flourished so that in 40. yeares they grew a terrour to their enemies; who suggested by the Divell cruelly afflicted them with ten generall persecutions, under the Emperours, Nero anno 67. Domitianus, anno 96, Trajanus, 100. Maximinius, 137. Marcus Antonius, [V. 198.]167. Severus, 195. Decius, 250. Valerianus, 259. Aurelianus, 278. and Dioclesian anno 293. yeares. Notwithstanding all which massacres and martyrdome, yet this little graine of Mustard seed, planted by Gods owne hand, and watered with the blood of so many holy Saints, (Nam sanguis Martirum, semen EcclesiÆ est) grew so great a tree, that the branches thereof were dispersed through every City, and Province of the whole world.

Before my arrivall in Aleppo, the Caravan of Babylon was from thence departed, which bred no small griefe in my breast: The Venetian Consull, to whom I was highly recommended, by the aforesaid Merchants, (having had some insight of my intended voyage) informed me, that the Caravan stayed at Beershake on Euphrates, for some conceived report they had of Arabs, that lay for them in the desarts, and willed me to hire a Janisary, and three Souldiers to overhye them; whose counsell I received, Frustrate of Babylon.But was meerely frustrated of my designes. True it was, they staied, but were gone three dayes before my comming to that unhappy place.

The distance from whence over land to Babylon, or Bagdat, being but sixe small or short dayes journey, the losse whereof and the damnable deceit of my Janizary made my Muse to expresse, what my sorrowfull Prose can not performe.

The doubts and drifts of the voluble mind

That here and there doe flee, turne judgement blind:

Did overwhelme my heart, in grim despare

Whilst hope and reason fled, stayd timrous care:

And yet the grounds were just; my treacherous guide

Did nought but crosse me; greed led him aside:

Still this, still that I would! all I surmise

Is screwaly stopt: At last my scopes devise

[V. 199.]To make a Boat, to beare me downe alone

With drudges two, to ground-chang’d Babylon:

That could not be, the charges was too great,

And eke the streame, did nought but dangers threat:

My conduct still deceavd me, made it square

Another Caravan, O! would come there

From Aleppe, or Damascus: till in end

Most of my moneyes did his knavery spend:

Thus was I tost long five weekes, and foure dayes

With strugling doubts: O strange were these delayes!

At last a Chelfane came, a Christian kind

Who by my griefe soone understood my mind;

And told me flat, the Janizaries drift

Was to extort me with a lingring shift.

Come, come, sayd he, the Sanzacke here is just,

Let us complaine, for now complayne you must:

He with me went, and for a Trenchman serv’d

And told the Ruler, how my Conduct swervd:

He’s calld, and soone convinc’d, and with command

Forc’d to transport me backe to Syriaes land:

I’me there arrived, and eftsoones made me bound

For the Venetian Consul: there to sound

My great abuses, by this Villane done.

Which soone were heard, and eke repayrd as soone:

The Bassaw was upright, and for times sake

He did me more, then conscience will’d me take.

My plaint preferd, he was in Prison layd

And all my gold, to give me backe was mayd

Which he had falsely tane: where for his paines

He had the losse, and I receivd the gaines:

For doubling his wrongs, done, to crosse him more,

I got my vantage, from his craft before:

And for his ten weekes fees, no more he had

[V. 200.]Than he, thats owner of a ditch-falne jade:

Thus leaving him, I with the Consull bode,

Full forty dayes, or I went thence abroad.

In the eleven dayes journey I had betweene Aleppo, and Beershack, through a part of Syria, the breadth of Mesopotamia, and Chelfania, a Province of the same, joyning with Tigris and Euphrates, and returning the same way againe; I found nothing worthy of remarkinge save the fertility of the soyle: Mesopotamia.which indeed in Mesopotamia, yeeldeth two crops of wheate in the yeare, and for a Bushell sowing, in diverse places, they recoyle a hundreth againe.

The countrey it selfe is overcled with infinit Villages, having no eminent Towne of any note or consequence, except the City of Carahemen the seat of a Beglerbeg, who commandeth under him fourteene Sanzacks, and twenty sixe thousand Timariots. The people here are for the most part beleevers in Christ, but alas too silly, untoward, and ignorant Christians: And yet though without learning, or great understanding therein, they are wonderfull zealous in their profession, and great sufferers for it also.

Beershack.This barbarous Towne of Beershacke, being situate on Euphrates standeth in the Chelfaines Countrey, and is supposed to have beene Padan-aram, where Laban dwelt, and where Jacob kept Labans sheepe, though some interpret all Mesopotamia, then to have beene called Padanaram: from whence North-east, and not farre hence are the demolished fragments of Ninivie on Tigris, whose very ruines are now come to ruine: The decayes whereof being much semblable to that sacked Lacedemon in Sparta, or to the stony heapes of Jerico, the detriments of Thebes, [V. 201.]the relicts of Tyrus, or to the finall overthrow of desolate Troy. This Countrey of Chelfaine, is the place most agreeable with Scripture, where the earthly Paradice was once set, though now impossible to be found out.

Mesopotamia.Mesopotamia is seldome watered with raine, but by the nature of the soile is marvellous fruitfull: It is bordred with Caldea, on the East: Euphrates on the South: Syria on the North: and Arabia Petrea on the West. This Aleppo is a City in Syria; the name of which hath beene so oft changed by Turkes, that the true Antiquity of it, can hardly be knowne: It is both large and populous, and furnished with all sorts of merchandize, especially of Indigo, and Spices, that are brought over land from Goa, & other places in India, which draweth a concurrance of all nations to it.

A notable obedience.Here I remember of a notable obedience done to the great Turke, by the great Bassaw of Aleppo, who was also an Emeere, or hereditary Prince: to wit, the yeare before my comming hither, he had revolted against his Emperour, and fighting the Bassawes of Damascus, and Carahemen, overcame them: The yeare following, and in my being there, the Grand Signior sent from Constantinople a Showse, and two Janisaries in Ambassage to him: where, when they came to Aleppo, the Bassaw was in his owne Countrey at Mesopotamia: The messengers make hast after him, but in their journey they met him comming backe to Aleppo, accompanied with his two sonnes, and sixe hundred Horse-men. Upon the high way they delivered their message, where he stood still, and heard them: The proffer of Achmet was, that if he would acknowledge his rebellion, and for that treason committed send him his head, his eldest Sonne should both inherit [V. 202.]his possessions, and Bassawship of Aleppo, otherwise he would come with great forces in all expedition, and in his proper person he would utterly raze him and all his, from the face of the earth.

At which expression, the Bassaw knowing that he was not able to resist the invincible Armie of his Master, and his owne presence, he dismounted from his horse, and went to counsell with his sonnes, and nearest friends: where he, and they concluded, it was best for him to dye, being an old man, to save his race undestroyed, and to keepe his sonne in his authority and inheritance: This done, the Bassaw went to prayer, and taking his leave of them all, sate downe upon his knees, where the Showse The Bassa of Aleppo beheaded.stroke off his head, putting it in a Boxe, to carry it with him for Constantinople. The dead corps were carried to Aleppo and honourably buried, for I was an eye witnesse to that funerall feast: And immediatly thereafter, the Showse by Proclamation and power from the Emperour, fully possessed the sonne in his Fathers lands, offices, Bassawship, and the authority of all the Easterne Syria, part of Mesopotamia, and the Assyrian Countrey; for this Bassaw of Aleppo is the greatest in commandement and power of all the other Bassawes in the Turkes dominions; except the Bassa, or Beglerbeg of Damascus; and yet the former in hereditary power, farre exceedeth the other; being a free Emeer, and thereupon a Prince borne: The force of his commandement reacheth to eighteene Sanzacks, and thirty thousand Timariots, besides Janisaries, and other inferiour souldiers, which would make up as many more.

This City is called in the Scriptures Aram-Sobab, 2. Sam. 8. 3. and Aleppo of Alep, which signifieth milke, whereof there is a great plenty here: There are Pigeons brought up here as after an incredible manner, who will [V. 203.]flie betweene Aleppo, and Babylon, being thirty dayes Flying Pigeons with letters.journey distant in forty eight houres: carrying letters and newes, which are tied about their neckes, to Merchants of both Townes, and from one to another; who onely are imployed in the time of hasty and needfull intendements; their education to this tractable expedition is admirable, the flights and arrivals of which I have often seene in the time of my wintering in Aleppo, which was the second Winter after my departure from Christendome.

Syria.Syria hath on the East Armenia major: On the South Mesopotamia: On the North Cilicia and the sea: On the West Gallilee and Phoenicia: In the Bible the Syrians are called Aramites, who were an obscure people subject to the Persians, and subdued by Alexander: after whose death this Countrey, with Persia, and other adjacent Provinces fell to the share of Seleucus Nicanor; who also wrested from the successors of Antigonus, the lesser Asia. This Kingdome hath suffered many alterations, especially by the Persians, Grecians, Armenians, Romanes, Ægyptians, lastly, by the Turkes, and dayly molested by the incursive Arabs.

In my expectation here, and the Spring come, (being disappointed of my desired aimes) I pretended to visite Jerusalem in my backe-comming; and for the furtherance of my determination, I joyned with a Caravan of Armenians, and Turkes, that were well guarded with Janisaries, and Souldiers; of whom some were to stay at Damascus by the way, and some mindfull to the furthest marke. And for my better safegard (being alwaies alone which by all, was ever much admired) the Venetian Consull tooke surety of the Captaine, that he should protect me safely from theeves, cut-throates, and the exactions of [V. 204.]tributes by the way, delivering me freely into the hands of the Padre Guardiano at Jerusalem: Which being done, I hired a Mule from a Turke, to carry my victuals; and so set forward with them. The number of our company A Caravan of Armenians.were about 900. Armenians, Christian Pilgrimes, men and women: 600. Turkes trafficking for their owne businesse, and 100. souldiers, three Showsses, and sixe Janizaries, to keepe them from invasions.

Betweene Aleppo and Damascus, we had nine dayes journey, in five of which, we had pleasant travelling, and good Canes to lodge in, that had beene builded for the support of Travellers, and are well maintained: But when we passed Hamsek, which is a little more then midway, we had dangerous travelling, being oft assailed with Arabs, fatigated with rocky mountaines, and sometimes in point of choaking for lacke of water. The confusion of this multitude, was not onely grievous in regard of the extreame heate, providing of victuals at poore Villages, and scarcity of water, to fill our bottles, made of Boare-skinnes; but also amongst narrow and stony passages, thronging, we oft fell one over another, in great heapes; in danger to be smothered: yea; and oftentimes we that were Christians, had our bodies well beaten, by our conducting Turkes. In this journeying I remember the Turke who ought my Mule, was for three dayes exceeding favourable unto me, in so much, that I began to doubt of his carriage, fearefully suspecting the Italian Proverbe.

[V. 205.]But when I perceived, his extraordinary service and Pagan flattery.flattery, was onely to have a share of the Tobacco I carried with me, I freely bestowed a pound thereof upon him: Which he and his fellowes tooke as kindly, as though it had beene a pound of gold, for they are excessively adictted to smoake, as Dutch men are to the Pot: which ever made me to carry Tobacco with me, to acquist their favour, over and above their fials, more then ever I did for my owne use: for in these dayes I tooke none at all, though now as time altereth every thing, I am (Honoris Gratia) become a courtly Tobacconist; more for fashion then for liking: The Turkish Tobacco pipes are more than a yard long and commonly of Wood or Canes, beeing joynd in three parts, with Lead or white Iron; their severall mouths receaving at once, a whole ounce of Tobacco; which lasteth a long space, and because of the long pipes, the smoake is exceeding cold in their swallowing throates.

At our accustomed dismounting to recreate our selves, and refresh the beasts, I would often fetch a walke, to stretch my legs, that were stifled with a stumbling beast; wherewith the Turkes were mightily discontented, and in derision would laugh, and mocke me: For they cannot abide a man to walke in turnes, or stand to eate; their usage being such, that when they come from the horse backe, presently sit downe on the ground, folding their feete under them, when they repose, dine, and suppe. So doe also their Artizans and all the Turkes in the World sit allwayes crosse legged, wrongfully abusing the commendable consuetude of the industrious Tailors. In their houses they have no bed to lye on, nor chaire to sit on, nor table to eate on, but a bench made of boords along the house side, of a foot high from the floore, spred [V. 206.]over with a Carpet; whereon they usually sit eating, drinking, sleeping, resting, and doing of manuall exercises, all in one place. Neither will the best sort of Mahometans be named Turkes, because it signifieth banished in the Hebrew tongue, and therefore they call Turkes are called Musilmans.themselves Musilmans, to wit, good beleevers: where in deed for good, it is a false Epithite, but certainely for firme beleevers they are wonderfull constant; and so are all ignorants of whatsoever profession: even like to the Spaniard, who in the midst of all his evills, yet he remaineth alwaies fidele to all the usurpations, the Hispanicall Crowne can compasse.

They never unclothe themselves when they goe to rest, neither have they any bed-clothes, save onely a coverlet above them: I have seene hundreds of them after this manner, lie ranked like durty swine, in a beastly stie, or loathsome Jades in a filthy stable.

Upon the ninth day (leaving Cotafa behind us on the mountaines) we entred in a pleasant Plaine of three leagues of length, adorned with many Villages, Gardens, and Rivers; and arriving at Damascus, we were all lodged (some in Chambers wanting beds, and others without, on hard stones) in a great Cane called Heramnen, where we stayed three dayes. Having all which time given us twice a day provision for our selves and provender for our beasts gratis; being allowed by the Grand Signior to all kind of strangers whatsoever; that come to Damascus with any Caravan; being a singular comfort and advantage to weary and extorted Travellers.

Damascus is called Shamma.Damascus is the Capitall Citie of Syria, called by Turkes, Shamma, and is situated on a faire Plaine, and beautified with many Rivers on each side, (especially Paraphar and Abdenah) excellent Orchards, and all other [V. 207.]naturall objects of elegancy: That for situation, Artizens, all manner of commodities, and varietie of fruits, in all the Asiaticall Provinces it is not paralelled. By Turkes it is called, the Garden of Turkie, or rather their earthly Paradice, because of a fenced Garden there, where a Garison of Turkes lie continually keeping that tree Mouslee, whereon as they alledge the forbidden Aple grew, wherewith the Serpent deceived Eve, and shee Adam, and from whence the great Turke is also styled, keeper of the terrestriall Paradice.

The antiquitie of Damascus.Some hold this Citie was built by Eleazer the servant of Abraham; and other say it is the place where Caine slew Abel, where indeed it is most likely to be so: for hard by Damascus I saw a pillar of Brasse erected there for a commemoration of that unnaturall murther of Cain executed upon his innocent brother. But howsoever I perswade thee, it is a pleasant and gallant Citie, well walled, and fortified with a strong Castle, wherein the Bassaw remaineth: the most part of the streets are covered, so that the Citizens are preserved in Summer from the heat, and in Winter from the raine.

The like commoditie (but not after that forme) hath Padua in Lombardy: Their Bazar, or Market place is also covered, so are commonly all the Bazars or Bezestans in Turky: The best Carobiers, Adams Apples, and Grenadiers that grow on the earth is here: neare unto the Bazar there is a Moskie called Gemmah, wherein my Guide shewed me the Sepulcher of Ananias, and the Fountaine where he baptized Paul: In another street, I saw the house of Ananias, which is but a hollow Celler under the ground, and where the Disciples let Paul downe through the wall in a basket: In the street where they fell their ViÆno, my Interpreter shewed me a great gate of fine [V. 208.]mettall, which he sayd was one of the doores of the Temple of Salomon, and was transported thence, by the Tartarians, who conquered Jerusalem about three hundred and eighty yeares agoe, who for the heavy weight thereof, were enforced to leave it here, being indeede a relicke of wonderfull bignesse: And I saw also such aboundance of Rose-water here in barrels, to be sold, as beere or wine is rife with us.

This Paradisiat Shamma, is the mother City, and most beautiful place of all Asia, resembling every way (the tectures of her Houses excepted being platforme) that matchlesse patterne and mirrour of beauty, the City of Antwerp. The onely best Shables, or short crooked swords, that be in the world are made here; and so are all other their weapons, as halfe Pikes, Bowes, and Arrowes, and Baluckoes of steele, that Horse-men carry in their hands: their shafts being three foot long, their heads great and round, and sharply guttered; wherewith they use to braine or knocke downe their enemies in the field. The forces of the Bassa of Damascus.The Beglerbeg or Bassa of Damascus, is the greatest of commandement of all other Bassaes in Asia: Having under his authority (as he is under his Emperour) twenty two Sanzacks, and they conducting under all the aforesayd three, forty thousand Timariots or Horse-men, besides two thousand Janizaries, which are the guard of the Bassa, and Garrison of the Citty. His Beglerbership extendeth over the greater halfe of Syria, a part of the two Arabiaes Foelix and Petrea, Phenicia, Galilee, Samaria, Palestina, Judea, Jerusalem, Idumea, and al the Northerne parts of Arabia Desartuous, even to the frontiers of Egipt.

The meanes of the preservation of so great a state, is only by an induced confidence upon the power, and force [V. 209.]of those Timariots who as well have their pay and locall grounds of compensation in time of tranquillitie, as warres, to defend these Countries, from the incursions of the wilde Arabs, which evermore annoy the Turkes, and also Strangers: and cannot possibly be brought to a quiet, and well formed manner of living; but are continuall spoilers of these parts of the Turkes Dominions. That mischiefe daily increaseth, rather then any way diminisheth. They taking example from the beastly Turkes, adde by these patterns more wickednesse, to the badnesse of their owne dispositions: Savage Arabian Robbers.So that every one of these Savages, according to his power, dealeth with all men uncivilly & cruelly, even like a wildernesse full of wilde beasts, living all upon rapine and robbery, wanting all sense of humanity, more then a shew of appearance: Whereby being combind together, doe tyrannize over all, even from the red Sea to Babylon.

Thus they in that violent humour, invading also these of Affricke, hath caused Grand Cayro to be furnished with thirty thousand Timariots, which defend the frontiers of Ægypt and Gozan: Leaving all the Turkes at Damascus (save onely our Janizaries and Souldiers) within the space of two houres after our departure from thence travelling in the way to Jerusalem; the whole Armenians fell downe on the ground, kissing it, and making many sincere demonstrations of unwonted devotion. At the which I being amazed, stood gazing, asking my Trench man, what newes? who replied, saying, it was the place where S. Paul was converted, which they had (and all Christianes should have) in great regard. The place was covered with an old Chappell, and,

Three dayes were we betwixt Damascus, and the East part of Galilie, which is the beginning of Canaan: in two of which three, we encountred with marishes and quagmires, being a great hinderance to us: This barren, and marish Countrey, is a part of Arabia Petrea, comming in with a point betweene Galilee, and Syria, running along even to the South-west skirt of Libanus, which indeed in that place, farre more than Jordan divideth the true Syria from Canaan; this Petrean Countrey it selfe, devalling even downe to the limits of Jacobs bridge, cutteth away the denomination of Syria, from this parcell of ground, till you come Eastward to the more laborious Plaines.

A dangerous way.Through this passage, it is most undoubtedly a very theevish way; for as we travelled in the night, there were many of us forced to carry burning lights in our hands, and our souldiers had their Harquebuzes ready to discharge: all to affray the blood-thirsty Arabians, who in holes, caves, and bushes, lie obscured, waiting for the advantage upon Travellers: not unlike unto the Lawlesse Wood Carnes in Ireland. This part of Arabia is called Petrosa, because it is so rockie, and some thinke of Petra the chiefe Towne: It was aunciently divided in two regions Nabathia, and Agara, possessed first by the Hagarens, discended of Abraham and Hagar: It is also thought to be the land of the Midianites whether Moses fled to, and kept sheepe; and Mount Horeb is here, whereon the Lord did shew him the land of Promise.

[V. 211.]Divers of these Petrean Arabs, converse, and dwell amongst the Turkes; whom we tearme in respect of the other, civill Arabs. South from hence, lieth Arabia FÆlix bordering with the Indian Sea; which is the most fruitfull and pleasant soyle in all Asia; abounding with Balsamo, Myrrhe, and Frankincense, Gold and Pearles, especially about Medina, the second Citie to Meccha: The other Townes of note are Horan, the chiefe Port of the South Ocean, And Alteroch, the only Towne where Christians are in greatest number in that Countrey.

Truely with much difficulty, and greater danger passed we these Arabia Petrea.Petrean journeys. Here I remarked a singular qualitie, and rare perfection, in the carefull conduction of our Captaine; who would, when we came to any dangerous place, give the watch-word of St. Johanne, meaning as much thereby, that none should speake or whisper after that warning under the paine of a Harquebusado. And no more we durst, unlesse he had stretcht out his hand, making us a signe (when occasion served) of liberty, least by our tumultuous noyse in the night, our enemies should have the fore-knowledge of our comming; and knowing also that the nature of a multitude, bred all times confused effects, without some severe punishment. Him selfe rod stil in the Vangard, upon a lusty Gelding, with two Janizaries, and forty Souldiers, and the other foure Janizaries and sixty Souldiers, were appointed to be the backe-gard, for feare of sudden assaults. Thus, most dexteriously discharged he the function of his calling, not with insolencie, but with prudent and magnanimous virilitie: for my part, I must needs say, the diligent care of that benigne Caravan extended over me, was such, that whensoever I remember it, I am not able to sacrifice congratulations sufficiently [V. 212.]to his well-deserving mind: yet in the meane while, my Purse bountifully rewarded his earnest endevours; and notwithstanding, of this high conceived regard, yet in some frivolous things, and for a small trifle, he privately wronged me, which I misknew, as unwilling (knowing his disposition, and that my life hung in his hands) to be too forward to seeke a redresse. For oftentimes an A corrupted Caravan.inconvenience is most convenient; and as the great corrupter of youth is pleasure, and the violent enemy of age is griefe; even so are the inordinate desires of inconscionable strangers toward Travellers, who preferring avarice above honesty, care onely for that part of a man which is his fortune, whose friendship beginning onely in an outward show, must end in the midst of a mans money; as who would say, such like were rather imployed, as their imployments rewarded, and therefore in unlawfull things they must sucke the honey of their owne preposterous ends: And thus it fared with him, at the paying of my tributes, by the way for my head, he caused me oft to pay, more then reason, to the Moores, Turkes, and civill Arabs, receiving secretly backe from them the over-plus; which my Turkish Servant perceiving, made my Trenchman tell me, that I might be fore-seene therein.

But such is the covetous nature of man, that with his covenant he cannot be contented, unlesse he seeke otherwise, by all unlawfull meanes to purchase himselfe an unjust gaine: But the high respect I had of his other perfections, made me oversee and winke at that imperfection of avaritiousnesse in him; and especially remembring my selfe to be under his protection, I alwayes endeavoured my aimes so, that in his sight, I wonne extraordinary [V. 213.]favour: insomuch, that in danger, or securitie, he would ever have me neere by him, which I also craved, and strove to observe the points of his will, and my owne safety.

The obligation of my bounden duety, taught me to no other end, then ever to respect the benevolence of his affection, and to suppresse my owne weake judgement, which could never mount to the true acquittance of his condigne merit.

But to proceed in my Pilgrimage, on the aforesaid third day, in the after-noone, we entred in Galilee, passing along a faire Bridge, that is over the River Jordan, which divideth a part of this stony Arabia from Galilee. Jacobs Bridge.This Bridge by the Armenians, is called Jacobs Bridge; and not farre hence, they shewed me the place, where Jacob wrestled with the Angell, and where Esau met his brother Jacob, to have killed him being upon the East side of the River: Jordan is scarcely knowne by the name in this place: but afterward I saw his greater growth, ending in Sodome, whereof in the owne place, I shall more amply discourse: Betweene Jacobs Bridge and Jerusalem, we had sixe dayes journey, five whereof were more pleasant than profitable, in regard of the great tributs I payd by the way for my head, that at sundry places and into one day, I have payd for my freedome in passage twelve Chickens of gold, amounting to five pounds eight shillings of English money: A journall tribute more fit for a Prince to pay, than a Pilgrime; the admiration onely resting upon this, how I was furnished with these great moneyes I dayly disbursed.

Aprill the eighteene day, according to the computation of the Romane Calender, and by ours, March the eight and twenty, I entred in Galilee, a Province of Canaan; This [V. 214.]Countrey was first called Canaan from Canan the sonne of Cham: secondly the Land of Promise, because it was promised By the Lord to Abraham and his seed to possesse: Thirdly, the land of Israel, of the Israelites, so called from Jacob, who was surnamed Israel: Fourthly, Judea, from the Jewes, or the people of the tribe of Judah: Fifthly, Palestine quasi Philistim, the land of the Philistins. And now sixtly, terra sancta, the holy land, because herein was wrought many wonderfull miracles, but especially the worke of our salvation. It is in length 180. and in breadth 60. miles: yet of that salubrity of aire and fertility of soyle, flowing with milke and hony, that before the comming of the Israelites it maintayned thirty Kings, with their people, and afterward the two potent Kingdomes of Israel and Judah; in which David numbred one million and 300000. fighting men, besides them of the tribe of Benjamin and Levi: It is most certayne, that by the goodnesse of the Climate and soile, especially by the Canaan greatly changed.blessing of God, it was the most fruitfull Land in the World: but by experience, I find now the contrary, and the fruitfulnes thereof to be changed, God cursing the Land together with the Jewes, then the (but now dispersed) inhabitants thereof. Neither are the greatest part of these Easterne countries so fertile, as they have beene in former ages, the earth as it were growing olde, seemeth weary to beare the burthen of any more encrease; and surely the two eyes of Day and Night, with the Planets, and Starres, are become neyther so forcible, so bright, nor warme as they have beene: Time from olde antiquity, running all things to devasted desolation, making the strong things weake, and weake things feeble, at last it returneth all things to just nothing: and there is the end of all beginnings, and an infallible Argument of the dissolution to come by the day of judgement.[V. 215.]

The Jewes are also tearmed Hebrai, or Hebrewes from Heber one of Abrahams Progenitors, or HebrÆ quasi AbrahÆi: who at their discent into Egypt, were but seventy soules being the issue of Jacob, and his twelve Sonnes. The posterity of which Patriarchy, continued in bondage two hundred and fifteene yeares, till in the yeare of the world, two thousand foure hundred fifty three: At which time, the Lord commiserating their heavy oppressions under the Egyptians, delivered them with a strong hand, and placed them here: which then was inhabited by the Hittites, Amorites, Perisits, and Jebusits. The Holy Land.Canaan is divided into five Provinces, viz. Judea, Galilee, Palestina, Samaria, and Phenicia: Some divide it only in three, Palestina, Judea, and Galilee: It hath beene by others also nominated in generall, Syria, by which Calculation, they gathered all the Countries from Cilicia to Egypt under that name. But howsoever they differ in Descriptions, it is most certayne, that at this day, it is onely, and usually divided into these five particular Provinces: Galilee, and Palestina, for the present, are the most fertile and largest Provinces thereof, especially Galilee, which in some parts, yeeldeth graine twice a yeare, and for abundance of Silke, Cotton-woole, delicate Wines, Hony, Oyle, and fruites of all kindes; I hold it never a whit more decayed now, than at any time when the glory of Israel was at the highest: This province of Galilee is forty eight miles long, and twenty five broad, having Phenicia to the North: Samaria to the west: [V. 216.]Jordan to the South: and to the East and North-East, a part or poynt of Arabia-Petrosa, and the South-west end of Libanus.

After we had travailed a great way, along the Lake of Genasareth, which is of length eight leagues, and large foure: where I saw the decayed Townes of Bethsaida, and Tyberias, lying on the North-side of the same Sea, we left the Marine, and came to Cana, to stay all night: in which wee had no Canes to save us from the Arabs, nor coverture above our heads, but the hard ground to lye on, which was alwayes my Bed, in the most parts of Asia: In the night, when we slept, the Souldiers kept Centinell, and in the day, when we Reposed, they slept, and we watched.

Cana in Galilee.This Cana was the towne wherein our Saviour wrought the first Miracle, converting at the Marriage, Water into Wine: And is now called by the Turkes Callieros or Calinos, being a towne composed of two hundred fire Houses: The inhabitants beeing partly Arabs, partly Jewes, and partly some Christian Georgians: the circumjacent fieldes, beeing both Fertile, Delectable, and plaine.

The day following, imbracing our way, wee passed over a little pleasant Mountayne, where the Armenian Patriarke (for so was there one with them) went into an old Chappell, and all the rest of the Pilgrimes thronged about him, using many strange Ceremonies, for it was in that place (as they sayd) Where Christ fed five thousand people, with five Barley loaves, and two fishes. And indeede was very likely to have beene the place: the auncient Chappell, showing as yet some beautiful decorements, do dignifie both the Monument, and the Memory of the Founder thereof.

Continuing our journey, wee saw Mount Tabor on our [V. 217.]left hand, which is a pretty round Mountaine, beset about with comely trees: I would gladly have seene the Monument of that place, where the Transfiguration of Christ was: But the Caravan, mindfull to visite Nazareth, left the great way of Jerusalem, and would by no perswasion go thither.

That night we lodged in a poore Village, called Heerschek, where we could get neither meate for our selves, nor provender for the Beasts, but some of our Company for their supper, had a hundred stroakes from the Moores and Arabs in that place, because the Christian Pilgrimes had troden upon the graves of their dead friends, which by no meanes they can tollerate: They made no small uproare amongst us, desperately throwing stones and darts, till we were all glad to remove halfe a mile from that place; and the next morning we passed by CÆsarea Philippi.CÆsarea Philippi which is now so miserably decayed, that the ruined Towne affordeth not above twenty foure dwelling houses, being for ruines, a second Towne, to sacked Samaria, or another spectacle of time like to the now ragged Towne of the Moorish Bethulia: It was built by Philip one of the Tetrarchs in honour of Tiberius CÆsar, and now called by the Moores Hedarasco. Here was Herod smitten by the Angels, and eaten of wormes, after the Sycophanticall people called his Rethoricall oration, the voyce of God, and not of man: Here our Saviour healed the woman of the bloody fluxe, and raised from death to life the daughter of Jairus: Here S. Peter baptized Cornelius, and S. Paul disputed against Tertullius in the presence of Felix.

Aprill the 20. day, about ten of the clocke, (passing the River Kyson) we arrived at Nazareth, and there reposed till the evening, providing our selves of victuals [V. 218.]and water: In this Towne dwelt Joseph, and the Virgin Mary; and in which also our Saviour was brought up under the vigilant care of Joseph and Mary. After wee had dined, the Armenians arose, and went to a heape of stones, the ruines of an old house, before the which they fell downe upon their knees; praysing God: And that ruinous lumpe (say they) was the house where Mary dwelt, when Gabriel saluted her, bringing the Annunciation of Salvation to the World: I am fully perswaded, they carried away above five thousand pounds weight, to keepe in a A counter buffet for Loretta.memoriall thereof: then did I remember of the Chappell of Loretta, and told the Caravan, that I saw that house standing in Italy, which (as the Romanists say) was transported by the Angels: O, said he, we Armenians cannot beleeve that, neither many other assertions of the Roman Church; for we certainely know by Christians, that have from time to time dwelt here ever since, that this is both the place, and stones of the house: Let Papists coyne a new Law to themselves, we care not, for as they erre in this, so doe they erre in all, following meerely the traditions of men, they runne galloping post to Hell. The Patriarke being informed by the laughing Caravan of these newes, asked me in disdaine (thinking it had beene an Article of my beliefe) if I saw that house, or beleeved that the Chappell of Loretta was such a thing: to whom I constantly answered, I did not beleeve it, affirming it was onely but a divellish invention, to deceive the blind-folded people, and to fill the Coffers of the Romane Priests: Now thou bottomlesse Gulfe of Papistry, here I forsake thee, no Winter-blasting Furies of Satans subtile stormes, can make ship-wracke of my Faith, on the stony shelfes of thy deceitfull deepes.

Thus, and after this manner too: are all the illusions [V. 219.]of their imaginary and false miracles, first invented partly by monasteriall poverty, then confirmed by provincial bribery, and lastly they are faith-sold for consistoricall lucre. In the time of our staying here, the Emeere or Lord of the Towne sent sixe women, conducted by 12. of his servants, to an Armenian Prince, that was a Pilgrime in our company; to be used by him and others, Libidinous leachery.whom so he would elect to be his fellow labourers: Which indeed he did kindly accept, & invited me to that feast: but I gave him the refusall, little regarding such a frivolous commodity. He, and some of the chiefest Pilgrimes entertained them for the space of 3. houres, and sent them backe, giving to their conductors fifteene Piasters, in a reward. Truely if I would rehearse the impudency of these Whoores, and the bruitishnesse of the Armenians, as it is most ignominious to the actors; so no doubt, it would be very loathsome to the Reader.

Such is the villanie of these Orientall slaves under the Turkes; that not onely by conversing with them, learne some of their damnable Hethnicke customes, but also going beyond them in beastly sensualnesse, become worse then bruite beasts: This maketh me remember a worthy saying of that Heathnish Romane Emperour Marcus Aurelius, who in consideration of fleshly lusts, said; that although he were sure, that the Gods would not punish him for the offence; yet he would forbeare it, in regard of the filthinesse of the fact it selfe: Indeed of a Pagane a noble and vertuous resolution, when such base and beastly Christianes, these wretched Armenians, committed with these Infidelish harlots a twofold kind of voluptuous abhomination, which my conscience commands me to conceale: least I frequent this Northern world, with that which their nature never knew, nor their knowledge have [V. 220.]heard hearing of the like: but God in his just judgements, that same night, threatned both to have punished the doers, and the whole company for their sakes: For we having resolved to travell all that night, and because the way was rocky, and hard to be knowne, and perillous for Arabs; we hired a Christian guide, named Joab, and agreed with him to take us to Lidda, which was two dayes journey. But before we advanced to our passage, Joab had sent a privie messenger before us, to warne about three hundred Arabs (who had their abode on the South side A villanous plot.of Mount Carmell) to meete him at such a place as he had appointed; giving them to know, wee were rich and well provided with Chickens and Sultans of gold, and Piasters of silver; and that he should render us into their hands for such a recompense and consideration, as their savage judgements should thinke fit; according to the spoyles and booties they should obtaine, together with the miserable murder and losse of our lives. This being done, and unknowne to us, we marched along, travelling faster then our ordinary pace, some on horse, and some on foote, for my pilgrimage was ever pedestriall: which our guide suspecting, that by our celerity wee should goe beyond the place appointed for his treacherous plot, began to crosse us grievously; leading us up and downe amongst pooles and holes, whither he listed; where many of our Camels & Asses were lost, and could not be recovered, because we all began to suspect and feare; which was the cause that the owners durst not stay to relieve their perishing beasts.

In the end, the Captaine and Janisaries, intreated him earnestly to bring us in the right way; but the more they requested, the more obdurat was his heart, replying, he was mistaken, and could not finde it, till day light: upon [V. 221.]the which words, the company was stayed, and in the meanewhile there came a Turke, one of our Souldiers unto the Captaine, saying; he saw the guide, before our A treacherous guide.departure from Nazareth, send a Moore before him, for what respect he knew not, being long at privat conference. Whereupon, they straight bound him with ropes, on a horse backe, threatning him with death, to cause him confesse the trueth.

In the midst of this tumult, I having got sight of the North-starre, (which seemd exceeding low to me) considered thereby, that the villaine had led us more to the Southward, then to the Westward, which was our way to Jerusalem: Whereupon I intreated the Caravan to turne our faces Northward, otherwise we should be cut off, and that suddenly: for although (said I) it may peradventure be, that we are three or foure miles short of the place intended for our massacre, yet they missing us, will like ravening Wolves hunt here and there; wherefore, if we incline to the North, (God willing) we shall prevent their bloody designes. To the which advice (being duely pondered) they yeelded; and so I became their guide, in that darke night, till morning: for none of them knew that Starre, neither the nature of it. At last this desperate wretch considering that either by our vanquishing, or the enemies victory, he could not escape, sith his treason was revealed; began to beg pardon of the Caravan, saying that if he could have any surety of his life, he would sufficiently informe us, how to eschew these eminent dangers, for we were all in extreame perill of our lives; and not so much courage nor comfort left us, as the very smallest hope of any reliefe.

The Captaine being distracted with feare, replied he would, and thereupon swore a solemne oath, so did the [V. 222.]Janisaries sweare by the head of Mahomet, for the like effect: Which being done, he was untied, and confessed, that if we had continued in our way, he led us, wee had beene all put to the edge of the Sword: and falling down on his knees, cried oft with teares, mercy, mercy, mercy.

All that night we went with the Starre, and against morning wee were in the Westerne confines of Phoenicia, and at the beginning of Palestine, close by the marine, and within halfe a mile of Tyrus. This sometimes renowned Tyrus is called Sur.Citty of Tyrus, called now by the Moores Sur, was famous for her Purples, and Collonies dispersed over all the World by her Citizens; and once a kingdome of great antiquity and long continuance. The most worthiest of her Kings, were Hiram in strict bond of Confederacy, with Salomon, and Pigmalion the brother of Dido, who built Carthage: This seat, giving way to the Persian Monarchy, was about the overthrow of Darius, beleagured by Alexander: who had so much adoe with extraordinary expence of men, money, and great labour to conquer it, being then separated from the maine Continent, by the Sea, but now joyned to the firme Land: and before you come to the Citty, there lyeth a great banke of sand, where it is likely the Sea hath beene in Alexanders time: Though now, as time altereth every thing, the Sea be fled from that place, which maketh that ruinous Towne seeme more desolate. At the breach of day, I, and certaine Armenians went to visite this decayed Towne, and found the most famous ruines here, that the World for memory can affoord, and a Delicious incircling Harbour, inclos’d within the middle of the Towne, fit to receive smal Barkes, Frigots, and Galleots: the compassing fore-face whereof, beeing all of foure squard Marble and Alabaster stones: the most part of all which [V. 223.]Houses have stood on pillars of the same stones: the The ruines of Tyrus.infinite number whereof, may as yet bee, (above and below the Sands) perspectively beheld. There be onely some nineteene fire houses heere, which are Moores: and is now under the Emeere of the Drusians, who remayneth in Sydon. The East part of this Countrey aboundeth in Balme, Honny, and Oyle, and was the Seate of Asher of whom Moses prophecied, Deut. 33. 24. that hee should dippe his feete in Oyle.

Here these Egyptian Moores, for so they were first bred there: brought us to a pillar lying upon the ground, of nine severall colours of Marble, being one intire stone, and the length of it was twenty two foot of my measure, and eight in compasse: Which sayd they, was one of the Sampsons Pillar.pillars that Sampson pulled downe upon the Philistines at the houre of his Death. To whom I answered, that Sampson dyed at Azath, the furthest South-west part of Palestine, where hee bore downe the House of Dagon, upon the Philistines: And I thinke the auncient Tyrians, sayd I, could not transport that Pillar so far hither: But they the more constantly affirmed it, and so did these Armenians that were with mee confirme it also, some of whom, had beene twice there before: yet howsoever it was, I brought home a pound weight of it, and presented the halfe thereof, to King James of blessed Memory.

Here by accident, in returning backe to the Caravan, I met with an English Factor, named Maister Brockesse, who then remayned at Sydon, eighteene miles from this place, and had been downe at Acre, about some negotiations: Who indeede eftsoones, and kindly tooke mee into a Moorish House by the Sea side, and one of his acquaintance: where instantly we swallowed downe such joviall and deep carrouses of Leaticke wine, that both hee and I, were almost fastned in the last plunge of [V. 224.]understanding: Yet neverthelesse, he conveyed me backe to my company, and put me safe into the hands of the Caravan, with whom afterwards I diverse times met with here at London; to whose kindnesse I celebrate the memory of these lines.

But now the Sunne discovering the earth, and the night banished to the inferiour world, we were all encouraged, for the light of day lends comfort: The Captaine (sending backe that false Judas, for so was he sworne to do) sent a post to Tyrus for a new guide, who came forthwith, and brought us in our way to Mount Carmell, for by it we The Towne of Sarepta.behoved to go; and in our way we met with the desolate Towne of Sarepta nigh thereunto adjoyning, where Elias was sustained in a great famine by a Widdow, whose sonne he raised from death.

Great are the mercies of God, for as he hath made man an excellent creature, so hath he also indued him with two great powers in his mind: The one a wise power of understanding, by which he penetrateth into the knowledge of things: the other a strong power of dexterous resolving; whereby he executeth things well understood, for we having judged the worst, resolved the best: and by his Almighty providence were freed from that apparent danger, although the former dayes whoredome, and unnaturall vices, deserved a just punishment.

This I intimate to all Travellers in generall, that if they would that God should further them in their attempts, blesse their voyages, and graunt them a safe returne to their native Countries (without the which, what contentment have they for all their paines) that they would constantly refraine from whoredome, drunkennesse, and too much familiarity with Strangers: For a Traveller [V. 225.]that is not temperate, and circumspect in all his actions, although he were headed like that Herculean Serpent Hydra, yet it is impossible he can returne in safety from danger of Turkes, Arabs, Moores, wild beasts, & the deadly operative extremities of heat, hunger, thirst, and cold.

Approaching to Mount Carmell, and leaving it upon our right hand betweene us and the marine coast, I beheld a farre off upon the top of the hill, the place where Elias ascended to heaven, when he left his Cloake behind him to Elizeus his disciple. This mountaine is foure miles of length, lying South and North, the North end bordering with the Sea, neare to Acre, called anciently PtolomÆis, and the South end joyning with the borders of Samaria, through the which confine we past.

Samaria.Leaving Samaria on our left hand, we entred into a faire Plaine, adorned with fruitfull trees, and all other ornaments that pleasant fields affoord, but no Village wee saw. Marching thus about the declining of the Sunne from the Meridian, we came in sight of two hundred pavillions, all pitched in rankes; yeelding the prospect of a little Citie, by a brooke side of water: which being perceived, the Captaine began to censure what they might be; and immediately there came riding towards us, sixe naked fellowes, well mounted on Arabian Geldings, who demanded what wee were? and whither we were bound with such a multitude; and if there were any Franks of Christendome in our company. To whom the Janisaries replied, we were purposed to Jerusalem, and that there was but one Franke with them: Upon the which they presently sought me, demanding Caffar, Caffar; that was tribute for my head, & caused me perforce notwithstanding of the resisting Caravan, and Janizaries, to pay them presently for my life seven Chickens of gold, seven times [V. 226.]nine shillings starling: And this is, because sayd they our King is resident in these Tents, and therefore we have tripled his tribute: And yet were they discontented, because there were no moe franks in our company, for from the Armenians, they could not, nor would not seeke any tribute, because they were tributary slaves and subjects to the great Turke: neither also of any other Christiane borne in his dominions, when they shall happen to fall into their hands.

They returning backe to their Prince, with the malediction of my heart, and the sorrow of a Pilgrimes purse, we marching on in our way, that day wee travelled above thirty foure miles, and pitched at a Village called Adoash, being composed of threescore Moorish and Arabian houses, standing in a fruitfull and delicate Plaine; and garnished with Olive, Date, and Figge-trees, which were both pleasant and profitable: where we found also good hearbes to eate, and abundance of water to drinke, and also to fill our emptied bottles: As wee lay downe to sleepe after a hungry supper, on the hard ground, and our guard watching us; The savage Arabian King.that same King of the Arabians came a little before mid-night, with twenty foure well horsed Runagats, and naked Courtiers, being armed with bowes and arrowes, and halfe-pikes, pointed at both ends with hard Steele; and asked for the Caravan, who presently awoke, and went to salute him, laying his hand on his breast, bowed his head very low; which is the usuall courtesie amongst the Infidels and Christians in these parts: For they never uncover their heads to any man; and after some short parley, they sate all downe on the grasse. The Caravan presented his rude like majesty with water, bread, hearbes, figs, garlike, and such things as he had.

As they were thus merry, at this poore banquet, the [V. 227.]awfull King tooke the Oath of our Conductor, if there were any mo Frankes there then I; and he having sworne the trueth, The King by a malignant informer, incontinently caused me to be brought before him; and staring me in the face, asked my Interpreter where were my companions? Who replied I had none: then sayd he; tell that dogge, or Elishole, he must acknowledge me with five peeces of gold more, otherwise (making a signe to his owne throate) I shall cut off his head, because (sayd he) I will not loose this nights travell for nothing: The which I being informed, and knowing that by no condition, there was resistance against such a scelerate Prince, Exaction of tribute.gave it him forth of mine owne hand, having consulted with my Captaine before, and that presently with a halfe smiling countenance; which he remarking, told the rest, it seemed I gave it with a good heart & a chearefull gesture, and to recompence my outward behaviour, he drunke a great draught of water to me: thinking thereby, he had done me more honour then all the Chickens of gold I gave him now, and in the morning; would doe him profit or pleasure: pleasure they could doe him none, for they were unlawfully and dishonestly got, and too delivered from the inward sorrow of my sighing soule; and no wonder, having spent two yeares great charges in Turky, before this time, but that I should have beene exceeding penurious of money, and thereupon desolate of reliefe and comfort.

Truely this was one of the greatest tributes I payed for one dayes journey, that I had in all my voyage, in Asia. Two Arabian Kings.There are two Kings in Arabia, the one who liveth on Euphrates, the desarts of Mesopotamia, sometimes [V. 228.]in Arabia Felix, and in some parts of Syria: And the other was hee to whom I payd this money wandereth with his Tribes, Tents, and Bestiall, one while in Arabia Petrea, and Deserta, and sometimes in the Holy Land, as hee findeth good pastorage, and fresh Fountaynes. These two Kings are mortall enemies: and if by accident they meete, they fight most cruelly, bringing dammage, rapine, and destruction to themselves, and their followers: For it is a difficult thing in them to dominate their inordinate passions, beeing untamed Savages, and mis-regarders of civility, who continually contend to corroborate the malignity of their dispositions, with bloody and inhumane interprises. And yet all the rest of that night, after his returne from us, wee still expected some treacherous surprise, which made our souldiers stand stoutly on their guard, and wee Pilgrimes to our vigilant and naked defence: For the Turkes will not suffer Christians to carry weapons in al these Dominions, neither any where, where they command. And for all this great tribute, and nights danger of my life, heere was my present resolution:

The more I am beset, with dreadfull snares

Begirded round, in shelfie gulfes of wracke;

And shipbroke left, on rockes of deep despaires,

Where helples care, with tortring thoughts me racke:

Then stoutly stand I, hoping for the end,

That time will change, and God will better send.

And now by the way I recall the aforesayd Turke, the maister of the Mule that carried my provision, and on whom in the journey I had bestowed the most part of my Tobacco: When I had no more to give him, and he suspecting the contrary, was councelled by his associats to beate me soundly, and dismount my Victuals and Water [V. 229.]from the Mules backe, till I propined him with the rest, which intention being by me understood; I forthwith run to the Caravan and complained: whereupon my friend was bravely belaboured with a cudgell, and my better safety procured: Thus was his former shew of love quickly expelled, and an inward grudge suddenly conceived, for it was the smoake, and not my selfe he respected.

The next morning, when the hopefull Aurore, had fore-showne the burning birth of glassie Thetis, and that Orient majesty arising to overcirculate the earth, then marcht we along in our way, and before mid-day pitched our haire-cloth Tents round about Jacobs Well.Jacobs Well, neare the decayed City of Sychar in Samaria: This Province of Samaria, is now for the most part quite destroyed and overwhelmed with mountaines of sand: we found this auncient Well so wondrous deepe, that scarcely all our ropes could sinke our bucket in the water: The taste whereof was wondrous cold & sweet, & for Jacobs sake the whole number of us, drunke more of it, then neede [V. 230.]required: The fiery face of Phoebus declining to the West, we marched through a part of the fields of Basan, of which Og was last King, a man of such a large proportion, that his bed being made of iron, was nine Cubits long, and foure broad: and all that afternoone, wee had exceeding pleasant travailing; and at night we incamped by Lydda on the fields: Lydda is not above ten miles from the ruinous Towne of CÆsarea by the sea side, and is now called by the Turkes and Moores Alferron, being a Village only of sixteene Moorish Houses. Heere Peter healed the man sicke of the palsie.

The Sea-port Townes of the Holy Land.The Townes scituated by the Sea side in Phoenicia, Palestine, and Judea, are these: Sydon, which standeth in the Borders of Zebulon, and Nephtalim, or Phoenicia, beeing a goodly City, and well peopled; and is governed by the Emeere or Prince of the Drusians: who beeing the off spring of the Christians, which under the Conduct of Godfrey Duke of Bulloine, discended into these parts, do still maintayne their liberty against the Turkes: The Signior whereof being threatned by the Great Turke, fled to Cosmus Duke of Florence, Anno 1612. leaving his two Sonnes behind him, the eldest to keepe Sydon, and the younger to remaine in a strong Fortresse, on the west end of mount Libanus: The elder brother foorthwith yeelded to the great Turke, the signory of his Lands, but the younger would never do it, and so retayneth absolutely the Countrey of Libanus to this day, making himselfe thereupon, a mountainous Monarchicke Prince. Tyrus, which is miserably brought to ruine: Acre or Acon, that hath yet some indifferent trade of Merchandize, called formerly Ptolomeis: Caipha, called commonly Castello Pellegrino, which hath nothing but the remnants of an auncient Abbay: Cesarea, who reserveth but onely the [V. 231.]memory of ruines, for there is no Hospitality in it, except it be to savage Moores: Joppa or Japhta, is a Sea-port of small Barkes, but the decaied Towne, contayneth not one dwelling House, save onely a high Tower, which defendeth the Port from Cursares: Here Jonah tooke ship to flye from God: Here Peter raised Tabitha or Dorcas, from Death to life: and where he lodging at the House of Simon the Tanner, was in a vision taught the conversion of the Gentiles. And Baruti famous for so many Christian armies that have besieged it, is now composed of eight hundred fire houses: Lying North-east of Sydon under mount Libanus, formerly called Julia Foelix, nigh unto which (as fabulous stories report) S. George delivered the Kings Daughter, by killing the Dragon. It is also thought to be within Canaan, standing in the Frontier of Phoenicia, and is the best inhabited place of all the holy Land, Sydon and Jerusalem excepted.

Saturday morning before the breach of day, setting forward from Lydda, through the curling playnes of fat-fac’d Palestine, scarcely were wee well advanced in A dreadfull conflict.our way, till wee were beset with more then three hundred Arabs, who sent us from shrubby heights an unexpected shoure of Arrowes, to the great annoyance of all our Company: For if it had not beene, that our Souldiers shot off their Gunnes on a sudden, and stood manly also to it, with their Bowes and Arrowes for our defence, we had then miserably, in the midst of their ravenous fury perished. But the nature of the Arabs is not unlike to the Jackals: For when any of them heare the shot of a Harquebuse, they presently turne backe with such speed, as if the fiendes of the infernall Court were broken loose at their heeles.

In that momentary conflict, on our side there were [V. 232.]killed nine Women, five men, and about thirty persons deadly wounded, which to our worthy Armenian Captayne, and to the rest of our Heathnish Conductors bred no small griefe: the mourning noyse among the multitude, beeing also wondrous pittifull. Till bright day came, we stayed still in that same place, (expecting the dangerous mutability of our austiere fortune: and at our departure thence, wee buried the slayne people in deep graves, whereby Jackals should not open up their graves, to eate their Corpes: For such is the nature of these cruel beasts, that they onely love to live on mans flesh: these ravenous beasts (as is thought) are ingendred of a Foxe and a Wolfe.

Proceeding in our journey, we entred about two of the clocke in the afternoone, in the hilly Countrey of Judea, having two of their courses to Jerusalem, which is about twenty English miles: The Towne of Rhama.leaving Rhama on our right hand, which contayneth some two hundred dwelling houses of one story high, and ten miles distant from Joppa, from which it lyeth in the way to Jerusalem: Here remayneth the Dragoman, a Christian, who receiveth and conveyeth the Pilgrimes to Jerusalem, which land at Joppa, each Pilgrime paying seaven Chickens of gold, is furnished with an Asse to ride on, all the way tributes, at going, and comming being discharged by their Conductor, to whom they resigne this tributary money.

Rhama is a Towne inhabited by Christians, Arabs, and Moores: not blacke Moores, as the Affricans be, but they are called Mori, which are a kinde of Egyptians, and not naturally blacke, but Sunne-burnt, with the parching heate. The whole Territory of Canaan, is inhabited with these Moores, some Turkes, civill Arabs, and a few [V. 233.]Christians and scattered Jewes. The Arabians are for the most part Theeves and Robbers, the Moores cruell, and uncivill, hating Christians to the Death: the Turkes are the ill best of all the three, yet all sworne enemies to Christ. But when they know how to make any gayne by strangers: O what a dissimulate ostentation shall appeare in these detestable Villaines, whose outsides onely they seeme to affect: but intirely the insides of their purses: & that is their ayme, and forcible end: wherefore they both toyle with all, and Conduct strangers through many perils, as eminent to themselves, as accessary unto our inevitable destinies: Time discussing all, and mony over-mastering time; for Coyne is the thing they must have, though necessity sometimes may not spare it.

About foure of the clocke before night, wee arrived at Beersheba.Berah, called of olde Beersheba, being eleaven miles distant from Jerusalem. Having a little reposed there, giving our Camels, Mules, and Asses some provender, but could get nothing for our selves, from these despightfull Moores, (for what wee carried with us, was all spent) except a little Water: wee imbraced our Mountaynous way, as cheerefully as wee could, for wee were exceeding faint, and travailed that day above forty three miles; whereby wee might arrive at Jerusalem before the Gates were shut, sustaining great drouth, burning heate, pinching hunger, and not a few other the like inconveniences.

And now about halfe way betweene Berah and Jerusalem, I, and two Armenians, advancing our way a flight shot before the Company. Wee I say, unhappily rancountred with foure Moorish fellowes, driving before them sixe Asses loaden with Rootes, and shrubs of Wood to burne: who seeing us, as they thought alone, layd [V. 234.]hands upon us, robbed us of our pocket monies: whereat A grievous danger.I resisting, one of them pulled foorth a broad knife, and holding me by the Beard, thought to have cut my throate, if it had not beene for one of his fellowes, who swiftly stayed him.

Well, they leave us, and following their Beasts, our Souldiers instantly appeared unto us; whereupon wee shouting, the Moores fled to the Rocks, and our foot Souldiers following, apprehended two of the chiefest, and brought them to the Captaine: One of which had my money, which I presently received backe againe, but mine associates money, was with them that escaped: the Captaine and Janisaries, meane while carried the two Moores along with them, thinking to execute them at Jerusalem. But their friends and neighbours following fast on Horse-backe, and on foote, relieved them from the Caravan, restoring backe againe the two Armenians money. Whereat all the Moores were exceeding glad, and wee nowayes discontented: for if they had not bin redeemed, certainly their friends and followers, who were thicke flocking together, would have cut us all off, before wee could have attain’d to Jerusalem.

At last wee beheld the prospect of Jerusalem, which was not onely a contentment to my weary body, but also beeing ravished with a kinde of unwonted rejoycing, the A joyfull harmony.teares gushed from my eyes for too much joy. In this time the Armenians began to sing in their owne fashion, Psalmes to praise the Lord: and I also sung the 103 Psalme all the way, till we arrived neere the wals of the Citty, where wee ceased from our singing, for feare of the Turkes.

The Sunne being passed to his nightly Repose, before our arrivall, wee found the Gates locked, and the Keyes carried up to the Bashaw in the Castle; which bred a [V. 235.]common sorrow in the Company, being all both hungry, and weary: yet the Caravan intreated earnestly the Turkes within, to give us over the Wals, some victuals for our money, shewing heavily the necessity wee had thereof, but they would not, neyther durst attempt such a thing. In this time the Guardian of the Monastery of Cordeleirs, who remayneth there to receive Travailers of Christendome, who having got newes of our late arrivall, came and demanded of the Caravan, if any Frankes of Europe were in his Society, and he sayd, onely one. Then the Guardian called mee, and asked of what Nation I was of, and when I told him, hee seemed to be exceeding glad: yet very sorrowfull for our misfortune.

A deare nights Supper.Hee having knowne my distresse, returned, and sent two Friers to me with Bread, Wine, and Fishes, which they let over the Wall (as they thought in a secret place) but they were espied, and on the morrow the Guardiano payed to the Subbashaw or Sanzacke a great fine, being a hundred Piasters, thirty pounds sterling: otherwise both hee and I had beene beheaded: which I confesse, was a deare bought supper to the Gray Frier; and no lesse almost to me, being both in danger of my Life for starving, and then for receiving of food, therefore suspected for a Traytor: For the Turkes alleadged, he had taken in munition from me, and the other Christians, to betray the Citty: this they doe oft, for a lesser faulte then that was, onely to get Bribes and mony from the Grey Friers, which daily stand in feare of their lives.

Anno 1612. upon Palme-Sunday in the morning, wee entred into Jerusalem, and at the Gate wee were particularly searched, to the effect wee carried in no Furniture [V. 236.]of Armes, nor Powder with us, and the poore Armenians (notwithstanding they are slaves to Turkes,) behoved to render their weapons to the Keepers, such is the feare they have of Christians. And my name was written up in the Clarkes Booke at the Port, that my tribute for the Gate, and my seeing of the Sepulcher, might bee payed at one time together, before my finall departure thence.

The Gates of the City are of iron outwardly, and above each Gate are brazen Ordonance planted, for their defence.

A foolish ceremony.Having taken my leave of the Caravan, and the Company, who went to lodge with their owne Patriarke, I was met and received with the Guardian, and twelve Friers upon the streetes, each of them carrying in their hands a burning waxe Candle, and one for mee also: who received mee joyfully, and singing all the way to their Monastery Te Deum Laudamus, they mightily rejoyced, that a Christian had come from such a far Countrey as Scotia, to visite Jerusalem.

Where being arrived, they forthwith brought me to a Roome, and there the Guardian washed my right foote with water, and his Viccar my left: and done, they kissed my feete, so did also all the twelve Friers that stood by: But when they knew afterward that I was no Popish Catholicke, it sore repented them of their Labour. I found here ten Frankes newly come the neerest way from Venice hither, sixe of them were Germanes, noble Gentlemen, and they also good Protestants, who were wonderfull glad to heare me tell the Guardian flatly in his face, I was no Romane Catholicke, nor never thought to be: The other foure Frankes were Frenchmen, two of them Parisians old men, the other two of Provance, all foure [V. 237.]being Papists: with nine other Commercing Frankes, also that dwelt in Syria and Cyprus, most of them beeing Venetians, who were all glad of me, shewing themselves so kinde, so carefull, so loving, and so honourable in all respects, that they were as kind Gentle-men, as ever I met withall, especially the Germaines: Such is the love of strangers, when they meete in Forraine and remote places. They had also in high respect the adventures of my halfe yeares travaile, East, and beyond Jerusalem: troubling me all the while wee were together, to show them the rare Discourses of my long two yeares survey of Turkey, but especially of my furthest sights in the East of Asia: And were alwayes in admiration that I had no fellow Pilgrime, in my long Peregrination.