I must now give you an idea how a holiday is spent at the seaside in Sweden. Early in the year the question is, Where shall we spend the summer? Three whole months of liberty and sunshine—this is what every boy and girl looks forward to in Sweden, as the public schools all close on the last days of May, or first days of June, and do not reopen till the first day of September.

This summer we decide to go to Marstrand, and I will try to give you an idea how a day is spent there. On a fine morning in the first week of June we board the pretty steamer St. Erik, and although we have come early, we find it already crowded with families hurrying off to the seaside, so great is the rush from town as soon as the schools are closed. We have to sit wedged in between beds and perambulators, so many and varied are the things it is necessary to take to a Swedish watering-place.

After the steamer has threaded its course for about two hours between the numerous rocks and islands, we suddenly get a glimpse of the tower of Marstrand’s fortress, dominating the whole island, and overlooking the stormy Kattegat, whose waves beat on its shores from all sides. Then we steam up through a very narrow passage, cut in the rocks years ago, to allow the gunboats of that day to retreat under the guns of the fortress.

Many a time, as a child, I used to watch with anxiety the progress of the steamer when in that narrow canal, as the boat almost touches the cliffs on either side, and it needs great skill to pilot her through safely.

Having passed through, we are in full view of Marstrand. What a glamour rests over that sunny island to many a holiday-seeker!

But as your eyes gaze upon it, you look in vain for any handsome buildings or hotels; what you see is a lot of nicely-built houses with red tiled roofs, all clustered closely together at the foot of the fortress, which is built on the highest hill of the island. A prominent feature is the white church with its square tower. The town was founded in 1220 by the Norwegian King Hakon Hakonson. During the sixteenth century it rose into importance as one of the best herring fisheries of the North, but in these days it depends almost entirely on the support of its summer visitors. We have now arrived at Marstrand quay, which is crowded with happy, chattering people, everyone eager to welcome some friend; or it may be they have just come down to watch the arrival of the steamer, this being one of the excitements of the island.

How delicious and soft the air is, full of the briny smell of the sea! Excitement runs high amongst the young people, as they think of all the delights of a summer at Marstrand, which are chiefly summed up in the three words, bathing, sailing, and fishing. We soon get settled into our home for the summer, a large, airy villa, standing in a shady garden, not far from the battery, and having a fine view of the sea.

Our first fishing expedition is planned to take place the day after our arrival. We are wakened early in the morning, between five and six o’clock. With eagerness we jump out of bed, and as we mean business and not only pleasure, we don an old serge skirt, as we know we shall get many a soaking of salt water from the spray of the waves as well as from the dripping fish. After a hurried breakfast we rush down to the quay, where we find our faithful old skipper Anders in his large, comfortable sailing-boat, waiting for us.

We sail right out into the open sea, where we drop anchor, and now the sport begins. The fishing-lines are unwound, each line often having about six hooks. These we bait with mussels. When luck is good, one has not long to wait; we were soon all busy pulling up and letting down our lines again as fast as we could, often getting two whiting or plaice at a time.

What fun it is to feel the tug and pull of the fish, but after a couple of hours we are ready to return home, feeling almost giddy with the strong air and the rocking of the boat; but we have enjoyed the morning immensely, and come back full of joy and spirits.

Another pleasure at Marstrand is the sailing. Along the quay are moored several large boats with their white sails hoisted, bearing various Northern names, such as Thor, Balder, Gudrun, Ingeborg, etc.

One hires these boats by the hour; the favourite sail is to the well-known “Paternoster” ledges, a group of rocky islets distant four miles from Marstrand, in beautiful open sea. These islands are much dreaded by sailors, and on HamnskÄr, the largest of them, there is a lighthouse, and below it is the light-keeper’s house, a low stone building, the only human dwelling-place on the island. There are also two little towers; one holds the fog-bell, and the other the windmill which winds the clock which gives the warning to the vessels that pass near those fatal rocks.

Often these pleasure sailings are extended for a whole day; the boats are large and comfortable, and the skippers are skilful, reliable men.

On the one half of Marstrand the town is built. It looks very quaint and old with its narrow, cobbled streets. There are two parks, one named Paradicet (the Paradise). This used to be the favourite meeting-place for the visitors, but lately the park which surrounds the Society House is the rendezvous, and near it are the public bathing-houses.

The sea-bathing house is built in a circle, and covers a good deal of water, the depth of the water being about 3 feet. From the enclosure there are doors that open out into the open sea for the more able swimmers. Each bather has a small room to undress in, and all these rooms lead out on to a gallery that runs entirely round the basin of water, into which steps descend at convenient intervals.

There is always a teacher of swimming to give lessons to those who do not know how to swim, and there are not many boys and girls in Sweden who do not learn this accomplishment very early.

The climate of Marstrand is very mild and balmy. There is scarcely any difference in the temperature between night and day; consequently, the temperature of the sea is very even, and sea-bathing is enjoyed till late in September.

For the sight-seer the fortress “Carlsten,” of Marstrand, is an object of interest. It is still in a perfectly preserved condition. In some places the walls are blasted out of the cliffs; in others built of granite. From its high ramparts one gets a fine view of all the surrounding islands and sea.

Marstrand itself is all grey rock, with a very few trees. A favourite walk is round the island. At one place you pass between high cliffs, a very narrow passage called the Needle’s Eye. The extreme point of the island is called TÅ Udden—the Cape of the Toe. This is a favourite resort, as here you gaze right out on the sea, and when it is stormy you see the grand spectacle of the waves dashing against the low rocks.