The territory from which the so-called "Turkoman" rugs come is that part of Central Asia consisting of Turkestan, Eastern Turkestan and Russian Turkestan lying north of Persia and Afghanistan and west of the Caspian Sea.

It comprises thousands upon thousands of square miles and is inhabited by numerous rug-making tribes of Nomads. The distinguishing marks of the Turkoman products are their wide web, their octagon and medallion designs and their old traditional colors of predominating red with patches of white, brown, and green. The dyes are usually fast and the knot is always Persian with the exception of an occasional Yomud or Samarkand, which may be tied with the Turkish knot. The rugs of Eastern and Russian Turkestan are really Chinese, but geographically should be classed with the other Turkoman products. Having been in the past less accessible they are now found in relative abundance and are therefore the least costly.

KHIVA BOKHARA

Synonym.—Afghan.

Why So Named.—After the city of Khiva, in the province of Bokhara, from the vicinity of which they come. The name Afghan is sometimes used because some of the inhabitants of northern Afghanistan contribute to the supply.

By Whom Made.—By the Kirzig tribe of Nomads living in the province of Bokhara and in Northern Afghanistan.

Knot.—Senna. Number vertically seven to twelve; number horizontally six to eight; number to square inch forty-two to ninety-six.

Warp.—Dark wool or goats' hair.

Woof.—Black or gray wool or goats' hair.

Nap.—Fine lustrous wool or goats' hair of various lengths.

Weave.—Loosely tied so that on the back it has the appearance of the Ghiordes knot.

Sides.—Usually a wide selvage of black or dark brown goats' hair, sometimes containing as many as seven cords.

Ends.—Wide selvage at each end in plain red or striped with blue lines. The long, shaggy fringe of the loose goats' hair warp is a characteristic feature.

Border.—From two to four narrow border stripes, usually three.

Prevailing Colors.—A lavish use of the Turkoman reds in the field with designs in blue, orange, brown, green, and white.

Dyes.—Good in the antiques. Nearly all of the new pieces are chemically dyed.

Designs.—The octagon is almost universally employed and is quartered by alternating colors. Animal forms are seldom seen. The prayer form is also seldom found.

Prices.—$1.25 to $2.00 per square foot.

Sizes.—They are the largest of the Turkoman rugs, being nearly always in carpet sizes and almost square, six to nine by eight to eleven feet.

Remarks.—One of the best inexpensive rugs on the market. Coarser and heavier than the other Turkoman products and in damp weather they are liable to have more or less of the smell of goats. The Khiva is about the only antique carpet now on the market.

THE EXAMPLES ILLUSTRATED

Knot: Senna. Ten to the inch vertically and seven horizontally, making seventy to the square inch; unusually close for a rug of this class.

This piece is of an unusually fine grade with a long nap and beautiful colors. The field, like that of nearly all Khivas, is filled with conventional octagon and diamond forms with a small eight-pointed star between each.

Shortell Rug (page 120).—Prayer rugs of this particular class are extremely rare and the peculiar prayer niche in this one is certainly most unique and unusual. Note the hands in the two upper corners of the field. It is on these that the worshipper is supposed to place his hands while prostrating himself in the act of prayer.

BESHIR

Why So Named.—After the words "Bech Schehr," meaning "Five Villages," being woven in five adjoining villages west of Khiva on the shores of the Amour Daria River in Turkestan.

Knot.—Either the Senna or the Ghiordes, usually the former. Number vertically five to ten; number horizontally six to twelve; number to the square inch thirty to one hundred twenty.

Warp.—Wool or goat's hair.

Woof.—Wool or goat's hair.

Nap.—Wool.

Borders.—Few stripes and narrow in proportion to the size of the rug. The designs are usually Tekke in character. The reciprocal saw teeth design is a feature.

Ends.—A fairly wide web which is usually dyed red through which generally pass blue stripes or strands of colored yarn. Knotted or loose warp ends.

Sides.—A three or four corded selvage.

Prevailing Colors.—The free use of yellow is characteristic. Browns, brownish reds and blue with very little white, as a rule.

Designs.—Those of the border are Tekke in character while those of the field are usually composed of tree motifs arranged in strips with alternating colored background. Caucasian and Mongol designs are commonly employed. Occasionally the field is filled with Chinese cloud bands.

Sizes.—From three to eight feet in width by five to twelve feet in length.

Prices.—From $1.75 to $5.00 a square foot.

Remarks.—One of the rarest of the Turkoman products. Most of those brought to this country are antiques.

THE EXAMPLE ILLUSTRATED

Owner's Description.—This rug differs from the Bokhara commonly seen, as it has the Tree of Life pattern drawn in the conventional form of the Bokhara weavers, but very artistically done, the wool used being the very best, very silky, and the selvage is finished in a very workmanlike manner. It was a skilful weaver who made this rug and it probably was his masterpiece. See also color plate at page 274.

TEKKE BOKHARA

Why So Named.—Because they are made by the Tekke Turkoman tribes of Nomads, one of the most numerous and powerful of the Turkoman tribes, who inhabit the country extending to Afghanistan on the south and Khorasan on the west.

Knot.—Senna. Number vertically eight to twenty-eight; number horizontally five to twenty-five; number to square inch forty to four hundred.

Warp.—Splendid wool.

Woof.—Wool, dyed red or brown.

Nap.—Splendid soft, velvety, closely clipped wool. Sometimes some goats' hair or silk.

Weave.—Renowned for its close texture.

Sides.—Overcast in wool which is dyed the predominating color of the rug. Occasionally selvaged.

Ends.—A web from ten to twelve inches in width at each end which is colored the same as the body of the rug. This is finished with a fringe of loose warp ends. Sometimes there are twisted ropes at one end, showing that it was intended for hanging. This is especially common in the prayer Tekke.

Border.—One to five border stripes, usually three.

Designs.—Elongated octagon forms arranged in rows alternating with rows of diamond forms with straight lines connecting the centres of the octagon, each of which is divided into four equal parts. In the centre of each octagon is frequently found the eight-pointed star. Sometimes the field is covered with octagon or the diamond forms alone without the alternate arrangement. In the prayer rug the field is covered with little candlestick patterns and divided into four sections by a large cross, the arms of which carry designs similar to those found in the border stripes.

Prevailing Colors.—Ground usually of a rich dark mahogany red with designs in blue, green, orange, old rose, wine, and pink, with more or less white or cream.

Dyes.—Usually good. Of late years some aniline has been used.

Prices.—The antiques are rather scarce and are of good value. From $2.00 to $5.00 per square foot.

Sizes.—Mats to carpet size. Two to eight by three to eighteen feet. The prayer rugs are nearly square, from four to four and one-half by five feet.

Remarks.—Their durability is phenomenal. The modern pieces are vastly inferior to the antiques. The prayer rugs differ so greatly from the others of their class that they might almost be arranged under a separate heading, in fact they are separately classed by some authorities under the name of Hardjli or Princess Bokhara. The Armenians call them Khatchlie Bokhara for the reason that the bands that divide the field into four sections form a cross, and the word "khatchlie" in the Armenian language means a cross. This class of rugs is growing rapidly scarce.

THE EXAMPLES ILLUSTRATED

Page 284. This is the prayer Tekke, the so-called Hardjli, Khatchlie or Princess Bokhara. The Greek cross divides the field into quarters, each one of which is filled with rows of candle sticks. The niche, the "Tekke border design" and the "Indian fish bone" are here employed as in most prayer rugs of the class.

Page 282. In design this piece is quite characteristic of its class. The octagon is invariably present, sometimes alone, sometimes in an alternate arrangement with diamond forms or with smaller octagons as in this example. Here the smaller octagons only are quartered. The peculiar arrangement of the "fish bone" design, the wide web and the loose warp threads at each end are also characteristic features.

Page 150. Knot: Senna. Number to the inch horizontally sixteen, vertically eighteen, to the square inch two hundred eighty-eight. The predominating color throughout is a beautiful terracotta. The four diamond forms through the centre are filled with geometrical figures in buff and terracotta upon a dark blue ground. Of the semi-diamond forms the first and third upper and the second lower have an old ivory background, while the second upper and the first and third lower have a background of a most beautiful buff shade. The figures on all of these are in blue, terracotta and white. The first and third border stripes carry an S form on the top and bottom, while on the sides they carry a form of barber-pole stripe, all upon a dark blue background. The main border stripe carries a peculiar rectilineal eight-petaled flower in different colors upon an old ivory background; the loose yarn ends hanging alternate in red and blue every four inches. The color combination and sheen of this piece are unexcelled.

Stanton Rug (page 162).—The predominating dark mahogany color and long thick nap, together with a touch of blue in the octagons, makes this piece most attractive. See also frontispiece.

YOMUD

Synonyms.—Yamoud, Yamut. Sometimes called yellow or brown Bokhara.

Why So Named.—After a tribe of Nomadic Turkomans by that name who dwell in the western part of Turkestan on the plains along the shores of the Caspian.

Knot.—Either the Senna or the Ghiordes. Number vertically eight to fifteen; number horizontally seven to twelve; number to square inch fifty-six to one hundred eighty.

Warp.—Brown wool or goats' hair.

Woof.—Good wool of medium length or goats' hair. Frequently dyed red.

Nap.—Fine wool of medium length or goats' hair.

Sides.—A coarse selvage of two cords which are colored in alternate squares of red and blue, red and brown, or two shades of red, giving it a checker-board effect.

Ends.—A wide web at each end in plain red or with blue stripes. Frequently stripes of colored wool are worked into the web with apparently as much care and skill as that given to the body of the rug. Finished with a fringe of loose warp threads which are occasionally twisted at irregular intervals.

Border.—There are usually three border stripes, one medium sized one with a narrow one on each side. The barber-pole stripe, the reciprocal saw-teeth, and the latch hook variations are the predominating border designs.

Prevailing Colors.—Ground almost invariably of a rich brownish red which is softer and deeper in tone than that of the Khivas and Tekkes. Figures in drab, blue, green, and yellow.

Dyes.—Usually the best.

Designs.—The tribal patterns show great individuality and combine the Turkoman octagon with many of the Caucasian designs. A common arrangement is that of octagons and elongated diamond forms in alternate rows with plenty of latch hook variations. Very frequently the field is covered with the diamond forms alone.

Prices.—From $0.75 to $2.50 per square foot.

Sizes.—Seldom smaller than five by eight or larger than eight by eleven feet.

Remarks.—They resemble the Bokharas in some respects and the Caucasian products in others. About the only antique, in carpet sizes, now found in the market.

THE EXAMPLE ILLUSTRATED

Maj. L. B. Lawton's Description.—This weave is the rarest of the Turkomans. So rare is it that Mr. Mumford in his article in the Century Magazine, January, 1910, states that to his knowledge no bales of antique Yomuds had been imported for seven years. Nearly all Yomuds have the cross pattern, are usually deeper in tone than their cousins the prayer Bokharas, and lack the little niche. Yomuds are silkier than prayer Bokharas, and have the color of the Delaware grape. This specimen has an unique pattern as a panel across the end, otherwise it is typical. Yomuds adhere more closely to their type than do any other weave.

KASHGAR

Why So Named.—After the city of Kashgar, a city of Eastern Turkestan which enjoys a great caravan trade and is one of the richest markets in Central Asia.

Knot.—Senna. Number vertically five to nine; number horizontally four to seven; number to square inch twenty to sixty-three.

Warp.—Coarse cotton.

Woof.—Four-stranded cotton.

Nap.—Wool of medium length, frequently part silk.

Weave.—Coarse and poorly tied.

Sides.—An added yarn selvage.

Ends.—Selvage of varying lengths with a fringe of loose warp threads at each end.

Border.—Chinese in character. Swastika border common.

Prevailing Colors.—Usually strong yellow, blue, red, pink, green, and orange with white or old ivory. Pale terracotta is common.

Dyes.—Good as a rule.

Designs.—Chinese in character. Generally fretted grounds or trellis covered with figures of bats, butterflies, cranes, dragons, fish, and trees. The knot of destiny is very commonly employed.

Prices.—$1.00 to $3.00 per square foot.

Sizes.—From three to six by six to twelve feet.

Remarks.—Not very many found in the markets.

YARKAND

Why So Named.—After a city of that name in Eastern Turkestan, in the vicinity of which they are made.

Knot.—Senna. Number vertically five to nine; number horizontally four to seven; number to square inch twenty to sixty-three.

Warp.—Coarse wool or cotton.

Woof.—Coarse wool or cotton. Generally four strands between each row of knots.

Nap.—Coarse wool of medium length, sometimes more or less silk.

Sides.—A selvage of two cords.

Ends.—Web of varying lengths with loose warp threads at each end.

Border.—Usually three border stripes, one of medium width with a narrow one on each side.

As a rule the borders are small in proportion to the size of the rug. The swastika border design is commonly employed.

Prevailing Colors.—Resemble those of the Bokhara with a field of rich brownish reds. Sometimes the field is of tan color. The designs may be in blue, red, green, yellow, pink, and terracotta.

Designs.—Resemble those of the Bokhara and Kashgar. Fretted grounds with figures of animals, dragons, bats, butterflies, circles, and octagons. A common design is the arrangement of four dragons in the form of a swastika.

Prices.—$0.75 to $2.50 per square foot.

Sizes.—From three to six by six to twelve feet.

Remarks.—Quite similar to the Kashgar. The modern ones are not attractive.

SAMARKAND

Synonym.—The trade name of "Malgaran" is given to an inferior grade.

Why So Named.—After the city of Samarkand, a city of Western Turkestan in the valley of Zarab-Shan, one hundred miles east of Bokhara, which was once the centre of learning in Asia, having had several universities there.

Where Made.—In the vicinity of Samarkand.

Knot.—Nearly always the Senna, seldom the Ghiordes. Number vertically five to seven; number horizontally six to ten; number to square inch thirty to seventy.

Warp.—Wool, cotton or silk, usually dyed blue or yellow.

Woof.—In the antiques cotton or wool. In the moderns cotton. Like the Kazaks there are three or four woof threads between each row of knots.

Nap.—Good, heavy, loose, lustrous wool. Sometimes silk or a mixture of silk and wool.

Weave.—Loosely woven.

Sides.—Antiques have a narrow selvage added sometimes with two colors like the Yomuds. Modern pieces are overcast.

Ends.—Similar to those of the Turkoman products. Wide web with fringe of loose or twisted warp threads.

Border.—From three to five border stripes, usually three. The inner border usually carries the Greek meander, the outer one floral designs and the middle one figures corresponding to the central designs. The undulating vine and lotus pattern are frequently used.

Prevailing Colors.—Field usually blue, red, or golden brown. Bokhara reds and yellows are lavishly used.

Dyes.—Of the best.

Designs.—There are usually five medallions (circles of happiness), one at each corner of the field and one in the centre bearing some dragons, animal, or floral forms. Very little trace of Persian, Turkish, or Caucasian influence; Mongolian characteristics predominate with some trace of Turkoman. Chinese fret, swastika, dragon, fish, and floral forms.

Sizes.—From three to nine by nine to fifteen feet.

Prices.—Antiques rare and costly, moderns from $1.00 to $2.50 per square foot.

Remarks.—The moderns are much inferior to the antiques. They are suitable for library and hall use.

THE EXAMPLE ILLUSTRATED

Although made in Russian Turkestan, Samarkand weavings are Chinese in every respect.

This particular piece displays three round medallions or circles of happiness, also butterflies and various Chinese plant forms. The first and third border stripes are composed of one of the Chinese lotus bud border designs, while the central stripe consists of the swastika fret.