GHILEEMS

Also spelled Gileem, Gilim, Khilim, Kilim, Killim. A pileless rug which is made by binding a dyed weft thread around the warp threads by means of a shuttle or needle, making the fabric alike on both sides and leaving open spaces between the warp threads where the changes of color are made. This is the primitive mode of weaving and requires much more skill than does the pile method. Ghileems are woven at the present day more than ever all over the Caucasus, Anatolia, Kurdistan, Persia, and in some parts of Turkestan. Those which are found in the Western markets come mostly from CÆsarea, Senna, Shirvan, Kurdistan, and Merve.

As a rule each variety adopts the designs and colors which are in vogue in the particular locality from which they come, but frequently the border stripes do not extend around the whole fabric as is almost invariably the rule with the pile carpets. By the Oriental the Ghileems have been used as floor coverings from the earliest times; by the Occidental they are used almost exclusively as portiÈres, couch covers, and table spreads. As a rule, they are sold in the Orient by weight, and, like most of the other textiles, have of late years not been extremely free from outside influences.

SENNA GHILEEM

Senna Ghileem is the finest quality of Ghileem produced, being much finer in texture than any of the other Ghileems. As a rule they have small intricate patterns, with an opening at each change of color, in fact they are exact duplicates of the Senna pile rugs in design and have the same finish on the sides and ends. The Herati design is commonly used in the field but seldom in the border. In sizes they vary from three and one-half to four and one-half by five and one-half to seven feet, seldom larger or smaller.

THE EXAMPLE ILLUSTRATED

The main border stripe carries a meandering vine with a pear-shaped leaf at each turn and on either side of it is a narrow stripe consisting of floral forms which are connected by leaves arranged in the form of a meander.

ANATOLIAN GHILEEM

Anatolian Ghileems are, as a rule, light in weight and coarse in texture, with many open spaces and with bold geometrical Turkish designs and bright colors. They are made of good wool and are finished with a fringe at each end. As a rule they can be distinguished by their prayer niche or by a seam through the centre, the larger sizes, which do not come in the prayer design, usually being made by sewing two long, narrow pieces together.

KIS GHILEEM

Kis Ghileem, which means "girl rug," are Turkish Ghileems made by the Mohammedan girls for their suitors, it being a Turkish custom for a girl, as soon as she becomes engaged, to weave one of these rugs to present to her future husband in order to show the quality of her handiwork; therefore, being judged to a certain extent by the grade of her weaving, she naturally does her best. For this reason many of the so-called Kis Ghileems are of excellent workmanship. They carry typical Turkish designs and are finished with a fringe at each end. In size they vary from two and one-half to seven by four to fifteen feet, the smaller sizes usually being of the prayer style, while the larger ones are made of two parts sewed together, little care being taken to make the patterns of the two pieces match well. Frequently we will find small tufts of wool, beads or a lock of the weaver's hair attached to the warp threads as a talisman.

SHIRVAN GHILEEM

Shirvan Ghileems are always recognized by their designs, which are like those of no other Ghileem, being composed of numerous stripes running across the whole width of the rug and covered with geometrical devices similar to those of the Daghestan. These stripes are from eight to twelve inches wide with narrow plain blue, green, or red stripes between. They are nearly always woven in one piece and of good wool, but are heavy and coarse, with large openwork spaces. In size they vary from three to eight by six to twelve feet, the average being five by nine feet.

KURDISH GHILEEM

Kurdish Ghileems, like other Kurdish rugs, rank among the best of their class, being made of the finest of wool and closely woven. They usually consist of two or more pieces sewed together or joined by embroidered geometrical designs and many yarn ends are left loose on the under side, giving a shaggy appearance like the under side of the Shemakha rugs. In this respect they are unlike any of the other Ghileems. The colors are as a rule subdued, dark shades of crimson, blue, yellow, and green, with more or less black and white. The prayer design is frequent, with a niche like that of the Ghiordes. The ends are finished with a web upon which an attractive design is woven or through which runs a parti-colored thread similar to that in other Kurdish rugs. The antiques are very scarce. In sizes they vary from four to six by seven to twelve feet.

THE EXAMPLE ILLUSTRATED

This is one of two strips which were originally sewed together like many of the Ghileems of this class. The predominating colors are green, red, dark brown and white. Each end is finished with a short web and braided warp threads. It also has many loose yarn ends on the back side, which is a characteristic feature of the Kurdish Ghileems.

MERVE GHILEEM

Merve Ghileems are made in the vicinity of Merve, in the Turkoman district. They differ from all other Ghileems in that the colors are divided diagonally instead of vertically or horizontally with the warp or woof threads. For this reason no open spaces are left. The colors are few and subdued, white especially being seldom used, and in design they are most modest, the field as a rule being divided transversely into three or four parts by ornate line patterns resembling in some respects the Kurdish Ghileems. They frequently come in prayer form with designs less striking than those of the Kurdish Ghileems and strongly resembling those of the Beluchistan. Some are of great size.

THE EXAMPLE ILLUSTRATED

One of two strips which were originally sewed together. Like many of its class the field of this piece is divided transversely into a number of stripes, each about a foot wide. Each stripe is of a different color, being tan, green, white and brown, and the whole field is covered with a trellis of serrated latch hook designs in red, the divisions of which contain diamond forms in different colors. There is a short web at each end, one with loose warp threads and the other knotted.

SILK RUGS

Silk rugs were first made in China and afterwards in Anatolia and Northern Persia, where silk is produced in great quantities. They were formerly made for mosques, for royalty, or for very rich people, expert weavers being hired for the occasion and the material being furnished by the one who ordered the work done.

Fine silk rugs are unsurpassed in beauty, rich, exquisite coloring, and rare sheen, but they have never been practical as floor coverings; first, because they require such luxurious surroundings, and second, because the wearing quality of silk does not compare with that of wool.

The genuine Persian silk rugs are getting scarce and almost priceless. Strange as it may seem, few of these pieces have been sought by either the museums or collectors of America.

Those made at Kashan in Northern Persia are the best of the present day products. As a rule they are made entirely of silk having a narrow web and a fringe of loose warp threads at each end and with beautiful shades of red, rose, turquoise, old ivory, and green.

In Persia they sell for from $10.00 to $15.00 per square foot and in the United States for from $15.00 to several hundred dollars a square foot.

A much cheaper and a purely commercial product comes from Kaisarieh or CÆsarea, in Asia Minor. These, as a rule, have a cotton warp and weft and are copied after the old Persian and Ghiordes designs, especially the so-called "Mosque design" with the hanging lamp. These rugs are undesirable in color, dyes and workmanship and are invariably worth much less than the prices asked for them. The great majority of them can be detected by the direction in which the pile runs, it being inclined towards the top instead of towards the bottom.

It is easy to go astray in the purchase of silk rugs on account of the numerous mercerized and wool silk imitations, many of them not even being hand-tied but machine made.

FELT RUGS

Felt rugs are made to a certain extent in nearly every part of Persia, but chiefly at Ispahan, Astrabad, and Yezd. They are made of wool, goats' hair or camels' hair or of a combination of two or all of these substances, according to the color desired. As no dyes are employed and the finished product is the same in color as that of the materials used, they are usually gray, white or buff, most frequently the latter. The material is matted together by being pounded, occasionally sprinkled with water in which rapeseed-oil cakes have been soaked for a long time, and then pounded more until it becomes compact and solid. The finished product varies in thickness from three-quarters of an inch to three inches and is as soft and pliable as cloth, but too heavy for exportation, consequently few come to Western markets. In the Orient they are used as floor coverings on top of which ordinary pile carpets are placed. In this country they have been used in bedrooms, also as a covering for dining tables, and as silence cloths, but they will not stand the wear of chairs and are an easy mark for moths. They can be purchased for from $7.00 to $10.00 per yard.