These lines, I feel sure, appeal to every motoriste as they exactly describe the little car in motion.

Starting one’s engine is not the nicest thing about motoring when a woman is acting as her own driver and mechanician, but with the little cars no strength is required; it is only the big cars that need a swelling of muscle. There is a great knack in starting an engine, but this, once overcome, ceases to be hard work.

In front of the car you will notice a handle. Push it inwards until you feel it fit into a notch, then pull it up sharply, releasing your hold of the handle the moment you feel you have pulled it over the resisting (compression) point. Unless starting a car fitted with magneto ignition, on no account press down the handle—always pull it upwards, smartly and sharply. If it is pressed down the possibility of a backfire is greater—and a broken arm may result. This, however, is not a common occurrence, and is one that is brought about entirely through carelessness on the part of the would-be driver.

If the car has not been used for some hours it will sometimes be necessary to turn the starting handle two or three times—speaking from my own experience, three times is the maximum; it will usually start on the second turn. Of course in the winter it will take two or three turns, as the petrol freezes and takes longer to vapourise.

The moment the engine is running you can get in the car and start driving. Hold the steering-wheel with both hands in the

manner and position in which it is most comfortable to yourself. Keep a firm hold of it all the time and do not get into the habit of driving with one hand on the wheel: use both except when it is necessary to use either for changing speed, &c. Advance the ignition-lever forward and give more air by pulling back the “air” lever. When you have tried the car once or twice you will easily be able to gauge the distance these various levers should be moved. Remember the faster the engine runs the more air she will take, though when climbing a hill it is necessary to drive on a richer mixture (less air, with the regular supply of petrol) and cut off the air inlet almost entirely.

You will soon understand the different sounds of the engine—and their prevention, or cure.

When the car is stationary (and the engine running) always endeavour to run it as quietly as possible. It is sometimes annoying to people to have the noise of an automobile outside their door and no good can accrue by allowing the engine to run on unchecked. Underneath the steering-wheel, on the steering-column you will notice the throttle-lever, mentioned in the preceding chapter. Its function is to regulate the mixture in the carburetter. When you wish the engine to run very quietly and slowly, you move this little lever from right to left. When starting to drive again do not omit releasing the throttle, otherwise the engine may stop owing to insufficiency of gas.

Your next move is to take off the side brake. You will find this lever on the right-hand side of the car. Now you are absolutely ready to start. Always remember that a car should receive careful treatment, so therefore do not attempt to move anything by jerking it roughly—take everything very quietly.

You will notice two pedals on the left and right respectively of the steering-column, on the floor. The left-hand pedal acts as a throttle (shutting off gas) in exactly the same manner as the hand-throttle explained above, that is, when it is pressed down half-way—and the throttling process acts according to the amount of pressure put upon the pedal.

If it is pressed down still further it acts as a brake. This foot-throttle and foot-brake are more frequently used than the hand-throttle and hand-brake.

The small pedal on the right-hand side of the steering-column is brought into service when first (or lowest) speed is required. Thus, to start the car you press down this pedal as far as it will go, at the same time pressing lightly on the throttle (left-hand pedal), and take hold of the change-speed (or gear) lever and push it as far forward as it will go, at the same time releasing the left-hand pedal and keeping down the one on the right. You are now travelling on first speed. You will soon tell when this speed has reached its maximum power as the engine will be running very fast. It will then be time to change to second speed. This is done by releasing the right-hand pedal, throttle slightly with the left foot and bring the gear-lever towards you as far as it will go, at the same time slowly lifting your foot off the throttle. You will now find the car moving much faster and will be able to tell, as in the former instance, when the maximum speed is obtained. When you hear the engine beginning to “race” (run very fast), slightly throttle again and push the gear-lever into third speed—away from you, the same position as for “first,” though, of course, in this instance it is unnecessary to touch the right-hand pedal, which, you must remember, is only used for lowest speed. You are now on third (or top) gear and will find that unless the country is very hilly you will usually be able to keep the car running on this gear for a long time, varying the speeds from 10 to 28 miles an hour by deftly manipulating the ignition, air and throttle.

Changing speed on the car illustrated is an easy task, and that is why I have taken the De Dion car as an object-lesson. With the majority of cars there is a deal of “arm work” necessary, and in many cases not a little strain, this strain very often counteracting the benefits otherwise derived from the driving.

In changing speed always remember to throttle slightly, whether in changing from first or second to top, or in slackening speed, from top to second or first.

Never change from first to top speed, or from top to first without using the intermediate speed. The first speed on these little cars is from zero to 9 miles an hour, the second from 9 to 18, and the top from 18 to 28. I should advise you to get thoroughly used to the steering while on second speed, and at first drive very slowly. Do not expect to be able to control the car in a few minutes. Take your time and get in sympathy with your motor as you would the horses you drive or ride. Gain confidence slowly. Once you have confidence in yourself the battle is nearly won. Bear in mind that when riding or driving a horse it is only partly under your control. As it has a brain and will of its own it can bolt if it wishes to—but with a motor-car you rely upon yourself alone—you are master (or should I say mistress?) of the situation.

When it is necessary to drive backwards, push forward the small lever you will find at the side, by the hand-brake, push the change-speed lever forward (same position as for top speed) and steer exactly the reverse way to what you would do if you were going forward. This will no doubt prove awkward at first, and will necessitate a little practice, but when once mastered you will find it equally easy to steer the car either in a backward or forward direction. When running on any speed, if you allow the car to gain impetus and then put the change-speed lever in neutral position, the car will travel on in the same manner as a free-wheel bicycle, the action of the gear being neutral temporarily disconnecting the engine and gear.

If you see an obstacle in the road do not go up to it at full speed and suddenly put on the brake. The sudden application of the brake will hasten the end of the life of your tyres—and if you are not driving on non-skid tyres a bad accident may be the result if the road is at all wet. Of course occasion may sometimes arise whereby it is absolutely necessary to apply the brakes very suddenly—for instance, if a car makes its appearance from a side turning that perhaps you had not noticed, or an individual or dog attempts to cross the road a few yards in front of your car—but in cases of this kind you must rely on your own judgment.

You will soon understand how far the car will run with a given impetus and learn to use the brakes gently and sparingly.

Never get into the habit of using only one brake. It is more convenient to use the foot-brake, but if you do not sometimes use the hand-brake, when an emergency arises you will find yourself looking for the hand-brake instead of your hand instinctively going out to it in the fraction of a second.

In travelling uphill run as far as possible at top speed—meanwhile listening to the throb of the engine. When the top speed drops to about the maximum speed of the second, it is time to change back to second, but do not allow the engine to run too slowly before changing, otherwise it will not “pick up” and it will be a great strain on it. If the hill is a very steep one it may be necessary to change to first. There is always a correct moment for changing speed, both on the level and on hills, but this is a thing that can only come with practice.

If you have a long decline to negotiate, turn the switch off so that the engine is not running, allowing the car to roll down on its own impetus, controlling with the brakes, but remember, on the car slowing down, after passing the foot of the hill, to put the top gear in and switch on again, otherwise the engine may stop.

If you are driving in a very hilly or mountainous country you must give the engine a charge of oil more frequently than every twenty miles on account of its having to be on low gear, when the engine runs much faster and is liable to get over-heated—and if it does become over-heated you will soon notice a nasty “knock”—regarding which I will explain in a later chapter, on “Troubles.”