“Be sure you are right, then go ahead.” This good old motto is just the thing to remember when one is going in for motoring. Remember, I am discussing the woman who drives her own car, and does all those things that ordinarily a chauffeur would have to do.

I am constantly asked by some astonished people, “Do you really understand all the horrid machinery of a motor, and could you mend it if it broke down?” but it really is not a very difficult matter. The details of the engine may sound complicated and may look “horrid,” but an engine is easily mastered. A few hours of proper diligence, provided you are determined to learn, and you know all that you have to know. Again, I must remind you that I am discussing the single-cylinder car, which is by far the simplest for a woman to drive and attend to alone.

I have made it a rule never to allow any one to drive my own little car—and this is a rule that every one will find useful. All cars have their individual idiosyncrasies, and if you alone drive, you get to understand every sound; but if you allow any one to drive you are ignorant of what strain the car has been put to. As a matter of fact, a strange hand on the wheel and levers seems to put the car out of tune.

Before starting out for a ride your first duty is to see that the petrol-tank is full. It is unpleasant to be stranded on the road, miles from anywhere, minus petrol. The petrol-tank is, in many instances, under the seat. Lift the cushions, unscrew the cap and peep in. If it is dark it will be necessary to hold a piece of stick in to see how much petrol there is, but when there is occasion to do this, be very careful that there is no dirt on the stick,

or a choked petrol-pipe or carburetter will result. The slightest atom of dirt in the petrol will cause trouble. If you are going for a very long run it is a wise plan to take an extra can with you. It is, perhaps, unnecessary for me to warn you not to take a light near the petrol-tank while it is being filled up. Many cars have been wrecked through carelessness in this direction. Remember it is not actually the petrol that catches alight, but the vapour that arises from it. If your petrol-tank runs dry there is no danger—the car will simply come to a standstill.

The chamber in which the petrol and air mix and vapourise is called the carburetter, from which the vapour is carried to the cylinder head by means of a pipe, and is there exploded by the tiny electric spark from the sparking-plug, the explosion forcing down the piston and causing the crank-shaft to revolve.

Having examined your petrol-supply, being sure to replace the screw quite tightly, your next duty is to see that the water-tank is full. This tank is situated behind the engine, close to the dash-board. Unscrew the top and if you cannot see without uncomfortably bending over take a twig or stick and poke it in, and the wet portion will tell you how much water there is; though on some cars there is, affixed to the screw tops of both the petrol-and water-tanks, a metal rod which shows the amount of petrol or water in the tank. When you are refilling the water-tank you can tell by the “overflow” when the tank is full—there is a special outlet, so as to prevent the surplus from flowing over the top of the engine. Be sure to screw the top of the tank on again.

The next for examination is the oil-tank. This supplies the oil to lubricate the engine and gears. There are several different types of lubricators, force or drip feed, according to the type of car. It is necessary to lift the bonnet to refill the oil-tank. The “bonnet” is the metal covering to the engine. When the bonnet is lifted, metal supports will be found each side to hold it up. It is important that you have plenty of oil, for it is the lubrication that keeps your machinery in working trim. Without oil your engine and

gears would overheat and probably “seize.” The lubricating oil is forced, by a small hand pump, to all the different parts of the engine and gears requiring it.

With the car illustrated, it is necessary to pump a charge of oil into the engine about every twenty miles. This is an easy matter and it is not necessary to stop the car to do it. Before starting out each day you should allow the “used” oil to run out of the base chamber. This is done by lifting a small rod you will find on the left-hand side of the commutator. If you pull this up it releases the oil, which you will see running out. When it is all out do not forget to press the rod into place again, as failure to do this would mean serious trouble, as the fresh oil, when pumped into the engine, would simply run right through on to the ground. After this stale oil has been released, two charges should be pumped into the engine before starting. This is done by turning the pointer on the pump handle to “Reservoir,” then pull up slowly, turn the pointer to “Moteur” and press gently down. To lubricate the gear, fill from “Reservoir” as before, turn the pointer to “Vitesse” and press down in the same manner.

Apart from filling the various grease-caps occasionally, on the steering, &c., and greasing the wheel bearings, this is all that is necessary in the way of lubrication. The wheels, however, only require greasing about every 400 miles.

Your next duty would be to test the brake. Get into the habit of doing this every time you go out. It is no trouble to run the car a few yards to ascertain whether the brakes grip or not. If all motorists, no matter how expert, were to spend a few moments in taking this precaution, there would undoubtedly be fewer accidents. We often read that “the steering-gear went wrong,” but I am right in saying that, in many cases, the accidents are caused by the failure of the brakes when applied suddenly on an emergency. The brakes may be in a satisfactory condition when you lock up the car after a day’s run, but when the car is stationary there is the slight possibility of a little oil dripping on to them during the night, rendering them practically useless. If there

is oil on the brakes, however, it can easily be burnt off by running the car a little way and applying the brakes several times—the friction will gradually burn it off. The brakes sometimes slacken and need adjustment—an easy operation. Types of brakes may vary slightly with different types of cars. On my single-cylinder car the brake is very simple. To adjust, you will find a small handle underneath the frame towards the back of the car, on the off-side. Half a turn one way or the other if the brake is too slack or too fierce usually suffices. It can be adjusted one way or the other in about a second or two.

We now come to the various levers and their different functions. There are six levers, the change-speed, or gear-lever, on the left-hand side of the steering-column, under the steering-wheel; the ignition-lever and the air-lever, both to be found under the steering-wheel on the right-hand side of the steering-column; the hand-throttle, underneath the steering-wheel; in centre of column, on a small ratchet, the hand-brake lever and the first-speed lever. In this chapter I shall only deal with the first four.

It is the gear-lever that sets the gear in motion—practically puts the “muscles” of your car into play. It is imperative that it be in neutral (or central) position when starting the engine, or when applying either the hand-or foot-brake. This gear-lever, when in neutral position, disconnects the engine and gear, thereby allowing the road wheels to be brought to a standstill. When first learning to drive there is a tendency to suddenly apply the brake without bringing the gear-lever into neutral position, consequently a great strain is put upon the entire mechanism, as rival forces are brought into play, viz., while the engine is pulling, and through the driving-shaft turning the gears and propelling the wheels, the action of the brake is to make the back wheels stationary. As an example, the shock on the mechanism in the event of this happening can be compared to taking a watch and banging it on the ground.

With regard to the other levers, always

be quite sure that the ignition (top) lever is retarded, and that the air-lever is in correct position. It is impossible to exactly give the correct position for these as it is a matter of adjustment and liable to slightly vary with different cars. However, when once you have found the correct position it is impossible to get it wrong.

The next thing to do is to switch on the electric current. The car carries a battery on the dash-board, where is also the coil. As it is possible to run 2000 or 3000 miles on one battery, the replacing is not an expensive item. The cost of a new battery is 15s. 9d. The switch is on the coil and the current is set in motion by moving the switch from “A” to “M.” Having done all these things you are ready to start up the engine, and after that, drive.

It has taken a long time to explain the preliminary things that you should do before starting off on a run, and the non-motoriste, and even perhaps the intending motoriste, will say, “If I have to do all those troublesome things it will take up all my time, so I think I had better have a chauffeur”; but let me assure you that while it has taken some little time to explain these things in the plainest possible language, it will take you but a few minutes to carry them out.