Of the villages and provinces between the town of Pasto and the city of Quito.
HAVING written what is notable concerning the pleasant town of Pasto, it will now be well to continue the journey, by relating what there is on the road to the city of Quito.
I said that the town of Pasto was built in the valley of Atris, within the territory of the Quillacingas, a shameless people, and they and the Pastos are very dirty, and are held in little estimation by their neighbours. Leaving the town of Pasto, the road leads to a village of the Pastos called Funes, and farther on there is another called Iles. Three leagues more bring the traveller to Gualmatan, and another three leagues on the road towards Quito bring him to the village of Ipiales.
In all these villages there is little or no maize, the country being very cold, and the maize seed very delicate. But they grow plenty of potatoes and quinoa,[262] besides other products. From Ipiales the road leads to a small district called Guaca, but before reaching it the road of the Yncas is seen, which is as famous in these parts as that which Hannibal made over the Alps when he descended into Italy. Indeed, the former ought to be held in more estimation, as well on account of the great lodgings and storehouses along its whole length, as for being made in spite of many difficulties over rugged and swampy mountains, so that it is a sight marvellous to behold. There is also a river near the road, close to which the place is seen where, in former days, the Kings Yncas had built a fortress. Here they made war upon the Pastos, and set out to conquer them. There is a natural bridge over the river which appears artificial. In truth it is a lofty and massive rock, with a hole in it, through which the river passes in its fury, and on the top all wayfarers can pass at their pleasure. This bridge is called Rumichaca[263] in the language of the Yncas, which is as much as to say the “stone bridge.”
Near this bridge there is a fountain of hot water, the heat of which is such, that in no wise can any man keep his hand long in it. The land is so cold that no one can endure it without great suffering. The Kings Yncas intended to have built another fortress near the bridge, and they placed faithful guards in order to prevent the troops from returning to Cuzco or Quito, for the people held the region of the Pastos to be a worthless conquest.
In all these villages there is a fruit called mortuÑos, which is smaller than a sloe, and black. If a man eats many of them he becomes giddy and sick, and for a whole day is in great pain. I know this, because when we went to give battle to Gonzalo Pizarro, a man named Rodrigo de las PeÑas came with us, a friend of mine, and ensign to the captain Don Pedro de Cabrera. When we reached this village of Guaca, the said Rodrigo, having eaten some of these berries, suffered so much that we thought he would have died of them.
From the small district of Guaca the road leads to Tusa, which is the last village of the Pastos. On the right hand are the mountains which overhang the sea of sweet water, and on the left the height which rises from the South Sea. Further on a small hill is reached, where a fortress may be seen, built by the Yncas in former days, which must be of no small strength for Indian warfare. Beyond this fort and the village of Tusa is the river of Mira, which is very warm, and on its banks there is plenty of fruit, such as melons, besides game, excellent rabbits, pigeons, and partridges. Here they reap large harvests of wheat, barley, and maize, for the land is very fertile. From the river there is a descent to the great and sumptuous buildings of Carangue, but, before arriving at them, the lagoon of Yahuar-cocha[264] is seen, which, in our language, is as much as to say “the sea of blood.” The Indians say that, before the arrival of the Spaniards, the King, Huayna Ccapac, for some offence committed by the natives of Carangue and other villages, ordered more than twenty thousand to be killed, and their bodies to be thrown into this lake. The dead men were so numerous that it looked like a sea of blood, for which reason this name was given.[265]
Further on are the buildings called Carangue, where some say that Atahualpa, the son of Huayna Ccapac, was born, for his mother was a native of this place. But this is certainly not the case, for I inquired into the matter with great care, and Atahualpa was born in Cuzco. Any other account of his birth is unworthy of credit. These buildings of Carangue are in a small square, and within there is a basin of cut stone. The palace and lodgings of the Yncas are also of elegant stones of great size, and are very neatly fitted without cement, which is a thing worthy of no small attention. Formerly there was a temple of the sun, and within there were more than two hundred beautiful maidens dedicated to the service, who were obliged to preserve their chastity, and if any of them failed to do so she was very cruelly punished. Those who committed adultery, which was considered a great sacrilege, were buried alive. These maidens were carefully watched, and there were also priests who performed the sacrifices enjoined by their religion. This house of the sun was held in great estimation in the days of the Lords Yncas. It was reverenced and guarded, and was full of great vases of gold and silver, and of other riches which cannot be quickly enumerated. Even the walls were lined with plates of gold and silver. Although it is now in a ruinous state, there is enough left to show that it was once a magnificent structure. The Yncas maintained a garrison of troops, with their officers, in this station, who were here both in time of peace and war to put down any rising. Speaking of these Lords Yncas, I will treat somewhat of their greatness and power before passing onwards in our journey.
