Concerning the grandeur of the rich palaces of Tumebamba, and of the province of the CaÑaris.

IN some parts of this book I have alluded to the great power of the Kings Yncas of Peru, and to their surpassing valour, and how, along a distance of more than one thousand two hundred leagues of coast which was under their rule, they appointed their delegates and governors, and formed many deposits full of all things necessary for their troops. In some of these depÔts there were lances, in others darts, and in others sandals, and so on with other arms and articles of clothing which these people use, besides stores of food. Thus, when a chief was lodged in one of these depÔts with his troops, there was nothing, from the most important to the most trifling article, with which they were not supplied. If there was any rising in the surrounding districts, they were ready to punish it with great severity; for the Yncas were such perfect judges, that they did not hesitate to punish even their own sons. Besides these depÔts and lodgings throughout the kingdom, there were palaces and temples of the sun at every ten or twenty leagues along the road, where there were priests, Mama-cunas, virgins, and more complete supplies than at the other stations. There were also governors, or chief captains, appointed by the Ynca, with the Mitimaes and Indians bound to service. In the time when there was no war, and when the Ynca was not travelling in the neighbourhood, the duty of these people was to collect the tribute in their districts, and see that all necessary supplies were kept in readiness. One of these stations was a grand affair, for, when a King died his successor disturbed nothing, but rather repaired and improved the place, for each Ynca had his own palace, while that of his predecessor was ordered to be preserved as he left it.

The famous buildings of Tumebamba are in the province of CaÑaris, and they were among the richest and most splendid in the whole kingdom of Peru.[291] Certainly there is nothing which the Indians say of these buildings that did not appear to me to be even greater than their account, judging by the remains which still exist.

To the westward is the province of Guancavilcas, which borders on the cities of Guayaquil and Puerto Viejo, and to the east is the great river MaraÑon, with its forests and some villages.

The buildings of Tumebamba are situated in a plain more than twelve leagues in extent, near two small rivers. The climate is cold, and there is plenty of game, such as deer, rabbits, partridges, pigeons, and other birds.

The temple of the sun is built of stones very cunningly wrought, some of them being very large, coarse, and black, and others resembling jasper. Some of the Indians pretend that most of the stones of which these buildings and the temple of the sun are built, have been brought from the great city of Cuzco by order of the King Huayna Ccapac, and of the great Tupac Ynca his father, by means of strong ropes. If this be true it is a wonderful work, by reason of the great size of the stones and the length of the road.[292] The doorways of many of the buildings were very handsome and brightly painted, with several precious stones and emeralds let into the stone; and the interior walls of the temple of the sun, and of the palaces of the Yncas, were lined with plates of the finest gold stamped with many figures. The roofs were of straw, so well put on that no fire would consume it, while it would endure for many ages.[293] Within the buildings there were several bunches of golden straw, and sheep, lambs, birds, and many other things were sculptured on the walls. Besides all this, they say that there were enormous sums in gold preserved in jars and vases, and many rich vestments adorned with silver work and beads. In short, I am unable to describe the magnificence of these royal palaces of the Yncas. The cloth in the store-houses was in such quantity, and so rich, that, had it been preserved and not lost, it would have been worth a great treasure. There were more than two hundred virgins dedicated to the service of the sun, who were very beautiful, and natives of CaÑaris, the province governed by the chief superintendent of the Ynca, who resided in these buildings. They and the priests were well cared for by those who had charge of the temple, at the doors of which there were porters. Near the temple and the palaces of the Yncas there were many buildings used as lodgings for the troops, and as store-houses, which were always kept full.

The natives of this province, called CaÑaris, are good-looking and well grown. They wear their hair very long, so much so, that by that and a circular crown of wands, as fine as those of a sieve, the CaÑaris may easily be known, for they wear this head-dress as a distinguishing mark.[294]

The women also wear their hair very long, and take a turn with it round their heads, by which they may be known as easily as their husbands. They dress in woollen and cotton cloth, with usutas on their feet, which are, as I have said before, like sandals. The women are very pretty, amorous, and friendly to the Spaniards. They are great labourers, for it is they who dig the land, sow the crops, and reap the harvests, while their husbands remain in the houses sewing and weaving, adorning their clothes, and performing other feminine offices. When any Spanish army passed through their province, the Indians at that time being obliged to supply people to carry the baggage of the Spaniards on their backs, many of these CaÑaris sent their wives and daughters, and remained at home themselves. I saw this myself when we marched to join the licentiate Gasca, president of his Majesty, for they sent us a number of women who carried our baggage.

Some Indians say that this arises from the dearth of men and the great abundance of women, owing to the cruelty of Atahualpa to the people of this province, when he entered it after having killed the captain-general of his brother Huascar at Ambato, whose name was Atoco. They affirm that, although the men and boys came out with green boughs and palm-leaves to seek for mercy, he, with a haughty air and severe voice, ordered his captains to kill them all. Thus a great number of men and boys were killed, and they say that now there are fifteen times as many women as men, and, being so numerous, they have to work as they are ordered by their husbands or fathers. The houses of the CaÑaris are small, and built of stone with straw roofs. The land is very fertile, and abounds in provisions and game. The people worship the sun. The chiefs marry as many women as they please, but one is always the principal wife. Before the marriage takes place, they make a festival, and, after eating and drinking at their will, they perform other ceremonies according to the custom of the country. The son of the principal wife inherits the chiefship, although the chief may have many sons by other wives. They place their dead in tombs resembling those made by their neighbours, and also bury the women alive, together with arms and food. Some of these people are great magicians and sorcerers, but they do not practise the abominable crime, nor other sins and idolatries; but they certainly reverence the devil, and those who are selected for the purpose converse with him. At present the chiefs have become Christians, and (when I passed through Tumebamba) the principal chief was called Don Fernando. It has pleased our Lord and Redeemer that they should be worthy to be called his sons, and to come into the union of our holy mother Church; for they hear the sacred evangel, and his words bear fruit in them. The temples of these Indians have been destroyed.

If the devil now deceives them it is in an underhand way, as happens sometimes even to the faithful, and not openly, as was his wont before the standard of the cross of Christ was planted in these Indies.

Very great events passed in the time of the Yncas in these royal buildings of Tumebamba, and many armies have been assembled there for important objects. When the King died, the first thing that his successor did, after he had taken the royal fringe or crown, was to send governors to Quito and Tumebamba, with orders to take possession in his name, and to build rich palaces adorned with gold, like those of his predecessor. The Orejones of Cuzco (the most learned and noble men in the kingdom), say that Ynca Yupanqui, father of the great Tupac Ynca, who was the founder of Tumebamba, enjoyed being here more than in any other place, and they say the same of Tupac Ynca. They also affirm that while Huayna Ccapac was residing here, he heard of the first arrival of the Spaniards in the land, when Don Francisco Pizarro reached the coast in the ship with thirteen companions, who were the first discoverers of Peru; and that he said that, after his days, a strange people would rule the land, like those who had arrived in the ship. He must have said this at the suggestion of the devil, as well as that the Spaniards would return to the country with great power. Now these buildings of Tumebamba are in ruins, but it is easy to see how grand they once were.

The province of CaÑaris is very broad, and full of many rivers, in which there are great riches. In 1544, they discovered such great and rich mines in these rivers, that the people of the city of Quito extracted more than eight hundred thousand pesos of gold. The quantity of this metal was such, that they often took out of the troughs more gold than earth. I affirm this, because I spoke with a man who had taken more than seven hundred pesos of gold out of a single trough; and besides what the Spaniards got, the Indians took an unknown quantity.

In all parts of this province where wheat is sown, it yields abundantly, and so also does barley. It is believed also that great vineyards may be planted, and that all the fruits and pulses of Spain may be grown, as well as those of the country.

There is no want of a good site for building a great city. When the viceroy Blasco NuÑez Vela passed this way, flying before the tyrannical fury of Gonzalo Pizarro and his followers; it is stated that he said that, if he should become governor of this kingdom, he would build a city on these plains, and divide the Indians among the settlers who should establish themselves in it. But, God permitting it for some reason which he alone knows, the viceroy was killed, and Gonzalo Pizarro ordered the captain Alonzo de Mercadillo to found a city in these parts. As, however, the district was within the limits of Quito, he selected the province of Chaparra instead, as I will relate presently. The distance from the city of San Francisco de Quito to these buildings is fifty-five leagues. Here I will leave the royal road, along which we have hitherto been travelling, in order to give an account of the country in the neighbourhood of the cities of Puerto Viejo and Guayaquil; and having done this I will again return to the royal road.