CHAPTER XCVII.

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Of the road from Cuzco to the city of La Paz; and of the villages, until the Indians called Canches are passed.

THE distance from the city of Cuzco to the city of La Paz is eighty leagues, a little more or less. It must be known that, before La Paz was founded, all the towns and villages now subject to that city were within the limits of the city of Cuzco. Setting out from Cuzco by the royal road of Colla-suyu, it leads to the narrow pass of Mohina, leaving the buildings of Quispicanchi on the left hand. The road goes by this place, after leaving Cuzco, and is paved with stones. In Mohina there is a large swamp, across which the road is carried on a paved causeway. There were great edifices in Mohina, which are now in ruins. When the governor Don Francisco Pizarro entered Cuzco with the Spaniards, they found much gold and silver, and rich and precious clothing in these edifices. I have heard some Spaniards say that there was a block of stone in this place, in the shape of a man, with long ropes, and beads in the hand, besides other figures, some of which they adored as idols.

Beyond Mohina is the ancient village of Urcos, which is about six leagues from Cuzco.[480] On this road there is a very large and strong wall, and the natives say that along the top of it a channel of water was conducted with great labour from a river, with the same skill and order as they make their other irrigating channels. In this great wall there was a broad doorway, at which there were porters who collected the tribute which the Indians were obliged to pay to the lords. There were other overseers of the same Yncas at this place, to seize and punish those who had the audacity to take gold or silver out of the city of Cuzco. In this place there were quarries whence they took stones for building edifices, which are well worth seeing. Urcos is built on a hill, where there were palaces for the lords. Thence to Quiquixana the distance is three leagues over a rugged country. Here the river of Yucay flows through the valley, over which there is a bridge made like others in this country. Near this place the Indians called Cavinas are settled, who, before they were subjugated by the Yncas, wore a large ornament in their ears. They say that Manco Ccapac, the founder of the city of Cuzco, secured the friendship of these Indians. They go about dressed in woollen clothes, with a black fillet twisted round their heads. In the mountains there are villages in which the houses are built of stone. In former times they held a temple in great veneration, called Ausancata, near which they say that their ancestors saw an idol or devil in the same dress as their own. These Indians held for certain that the souls which departed from the bodies went to a great lake, where, in their vain belief, they held that they had their origin, and where they again entered into the bodies of those who were born. After they were subjugated by the Yncas they became more civilised and intelligent, and adored the sun, without forgetting their former temple. Beyond this province is that of the Canches, who are intelligent and homely Indians, without malice, and always skilful in working, especially gold and silver. They also had large flocks of sheep. Their villages are like those of their neighbours; they wear the same clothes, with a black fillet round the head, the ends of which hang down as low as the chin. They say that, in ancient times, they waged great wars with Huira-ccocha Ynca, and with some of his predecessors, and that, when they submitted to their rule, the Yncas valued them highly. Their arms were darts, slings, and weapons called Ayllos, with which they captured their enemies. Their methods of interment were the same as those already described; their tombs were built of stone, on the heights, and here they put the bodies of their chiefs, together with some of their wives and servants. They do not value the vanities and honours of the world, though it is true that some of the chiefs are haughty to the Indians, and treat them with asperity. At certain seasons of the year they celebrate their festivals, for which they have fixed days. In the buildings of the chiefs there were places where they had their dances, and where the chiefs ate and drank. They conversed with the devil, like all the other Indians. Throughout all the land of these Canches there is maize and wheat, and plenty of partridges and condors, and in their houses the Indians have many fowls. They also catch excellent fish in the rivers.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

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