Of the other valley, as far as the province of Tarapaca.
AFTER leaving the beautiful province of Chincha, and travelling over sandy wastes, the traveller reaches the refreshing valley of Yca, which was not less rich and populous than the others. A river flows through it, which, during some months in the year when the season is summer in the Sierra, has so little water that the inhabitants of the valley feel the want of it. In the days of their prosperity, before they were subdued by the Spaniards, and when they enjoyed the government of the Yncas, besides the channels with which they irrigated the valley, they had one much larger than the rest, brought with great skill from the mountains in such wise that it flowed without reducing the quantity of water in the river.[383] Now that this great channel is destroyed, they make deep holes in the bed of the river when it is dry, and thus they obtain water to drink, and for watering their crops. In this valley of Yca there were great lords in former times who were much feared and reverenced. The Yncas ordered palaces and other buildings to be made in the valley. The inhabitants had the same customs as the other Indians, burying live women and great treasure with their dead.
In this valley there are very large woods of algaroba trees, and many fruit trees of the kinds already described; besides deer, pigeons, doves, and other game. The people breed much cattle.[384]
From this valley of Yca the road leads to the beautiful rivers and valleys of Nasca,[385] which were also very populous in times past, and the streams were made to irrigate the fields. The late wars destroyed by their cruelty (as is well known) all these poor Indians. Some Spaniards of credit told me that the greatest harm to the Indians was done during the dispute of the two governors Pizarro and Almagro, respecting the boundaries of their jurisdictions, which cost so dear, as the reader will see in the proper place.
In the principal valley of those of Nasca (which by another name is called Caxamalca) there were great edifices built by order of the Yncas.[386] I have nothing more to say of the natives than that they also assert that their ancestors were valiant, and esteemed by the Kings of Cuzco. I have heard that the Spaniards took a quantity of treasure from the burial-places, or huacas. These valleys being so fertile, as I have said, a great quantity of sweet canes have been planted in one of them, of which they make much sugar for sale in the cities of this kingdom. The great road of the Yncas passes through all these valleys, and in some parts of the desert signs may be seen to indicate the road that should be taken.
Beyond these valleys of Nasca is that of Acari, and further on are those of OcoÑa, Camana, and Quilca, in which there are great rivers.[387] Notwithstanding that at the present time these valleys contain few inhabitants, in former times they were populous, but the wars and calamities have reduced their numbers of late years until there are now few left. These valleys are as fruitful and abundant as the others, and are well adapted for breeding stock.
Beyond this valley of Quilca,[388] which is the port of the city of Arequipa, are those of Chuli, Tambopalla, and Ylo. Further on are the rich valleys of Tarapaca. Out of the sea, in the neighbourhood of these valleys, rise some islands much frequented by seals. The natives go to them in balsas, and bring a great quantity of the dung of birds from the rocks, to apply to their crops of maize, and they find it so efficacious that the land, which formerly was sterile, becomes very rich and fruitful. If they cease to use this manure they reap little maize. Indeed the people could not be supported if the birds, lodging on the rocks round these islands, did not leave that which is afterwards collected, and considered so valuable as to become an article of trade between the natives.[389]
It does not appear to me necessary to dwell longer on the things concerning these valleys, for I have already written down the principal things I saw or was able to obtain notice of. I will conclude, therefore, by saying that there are now few natives, and that in ancient times there were palaces and store-houses in all the valleys, the tribute rendered to the Kings Yncas being conveyed partly to Cuzco, partly to Hatuncolla, partly to Vilcas, and partly to Caxamalca. The principal grandeur of the Yncas was in the Sierra. I now pass on to the valleys of Tarapaca.
It is certain that there are very rich mines in these valleys of Tarapaca, of white and resplendent silver. Further on, I am told by those who have travelled in these parts, there are some deserts which extend to the borders of the government of Chile.[390] Along all this coast they kill fish, some of them good, and the Indians make balsas of sealskin for their fishing; and in some parts there are so many seals that the noise they make when congregating together is a thing worth hearing.