  | CHAPTER I. | Preparations for Departure.—Plans for the Journey.—To Mexico by Rail.—Baggage, and Books on the Country.—Brushing up their Knowledge of Spanish.—Westward from New York.—A Halt at St. Louis.—San Antonio, Texas.—Visit to the Alamo.—Reminiscences of the Fall of the Alamo.—Battle of San Jacinto and Independence of Texas.—Notes on the Railways of Northern Mexico.—Old Texas and Modern Changes.—"G.T.T."—Present Wealth of the State.—Arrival on the Frontier of Mexico. | | CHAPTER II. | Hotels on the Frontier.—Accommodations at Laredo.—Smuggling over the Border.—Laredo as a Railway Centre.—The Rio Grande and its Peculiarities.—Rivers Beneath the Sands.—Entering Mexican Territory.—Examinations at the Custom-house.—Mexican Tariffs.—Bribery among Officials.—Leaving Nuevo Laredo.—A Dreary Plain.—Fellow-passengers with our Friends.—A Mexican Irishman.—People at the Stations.—Adobe Houses; How they are Made.—The Land of MaÑana.—Poco Tiempo and Quien Sabe.—Lampasas.—Mesa de los Cartujanos.—Products of Nuevo Leon.—Saddle and Mitre Mountains.—Monterey. | | CHAPTER III. | The American Invasion of To-day.—Monterey as a Health Resort; its Site and Surroundings.—The Cathedral and other Public Buildings.—Capture of Monterey by General Taylor.—Short History of the Mexican War.—From Corpus Christi to Monterey.—The Attack on the City.—Capture of the Forts and the Bishop's Palace.—Frank Recites a Poem.—Lieut. U.S. Grant and What he Did at Monterey.—A Story about Jefferson Davis.—How John Phenix Escaped Cashiering.—Sights of the City.—The Market-place and What was Seen There.—Fruits, Birds, Pottery, etc.—In a Monterey House.—A Palatial Residence. | | CHAPTER IV. | Southward to Saltillo.—Santa Caterina.—Remarkable Caves.—Scenery of the Sierra Madre.—Way-side Attractions.—The Cactus; its Flowers and Many Varieties.—Saltillo.—The Alameda.—Mexican Currency.—The Battle-field of Buena Vista.—By Carriage and Saddle.—A Night at a Hacienda.—Mexican Cookery.—Tortillas, Puchero, Frijoles, Tamales, and Other Edibles.—History of the Mexican War from Monterey to Buena Vista.—5000 Americans Defeat 20,000 Mexicans.—Description of the Field.—Cotton Factory at Saltillo.—Cotton Manufactures in Mexico. | | CHAPTER V. | From Saltillo to Jaral.—A Journey by Diligence.—Peculiarities of Diligence Travel.—Brigandage; How the Government Suppressed It.—Robbers Turned into Soldiers.—Stories of Brigands and their Work; their Treatment of Prisoners.—A Case of Politeness.—Dinner at a Way-side Inn.—Chile con Carne.—Description of Chihuahua.—The Santa Eulalia Mines; Romantic Story of their Discovery.—Torreon and Lerdo.—Cotton in Transit.—Statistics of Cotton in Mexico.—Fresnillo.—Calera.—A Bad Breakfast.—Arrival at Zacatecas.—Lodged in an Old Convent. | | CHAPTER VI. | Name, Population, and Peculiarities of Zacatecas.—The Pilgrimage Chapel.—A Wealthy Cathedral.—Street Scenes.—Mines of Zacatecas.—A Dangerous Descent.—The Patio Process of Reducing Ores.—Treading Ore with Mules and Horses.—A Sorry Sight.—The Miners; How they Live and Work.—Statistics of Silver-mining in Mexico.—Astounding Calculations.—From Zacatecas to Aguas Calientes.—Farm Scenes.—Farming in Mexico.—Condition of Laborers.—Men as Beasts of Burden.—Aguas Calientes.—A Beautiful City.—A Picturesque Population.—Women of Mexico. | | CHAPTER VII. | Southward Again.—Crossing a Barranca.—Barrancas in Mexico.—Lagos and its Peculiarities.—Leon, the Manufacturing City of Mexico.—Silao.—Arrival at Guanajuato.—A Silver City.—The Valenciano Mine.—An Unhealthy Place.—Bad Drainage.—A System of Reservoirs.—The Castillo del Grenaditas.—An Indian's Armor.—Expert Thieves.—Stealing a Grindstone.—Market Scenes.—Heads of Sheep and Goats.—Schools at Guanajuato.—Education in Mexico.—Down in the Rayas Mine.—Sights Underground.—An Indian Water-carrier.—How a Skin is Taken Whole from a Pig.—The Reduction Hacienda.—Mr. Parkman's Machine.—Queretaro.—The Hercules and other Cotton-mills. | | CHAPTER VIII. | Aqueduct at Queretaro.—The Result of a Banter.—The Hill of the Bells.—Place where Maximilian was Shot.—Revolutions in Mexico.—Foreign Intervention.—Maximilian becomes Emperor.—The "Black Decree."—Withdrawal of French Troops from Mexico.—Maximilian's Defeat, Capture, and Death.—How a French Newspaper Circumvented the Laws.—Pronunciamentos.—Juarez as President.—The Abraham Lincoln of Mexico.—A Wonderful Prophecy.—Personal Appearance of Juarez.—Religion in Mexico.—Former Power of the Catholic Church.—The Laws of the Reform.—Protestant Churches and Protestant Work.—Missionary Martyrs.—Murder of Rev. J.L. Stephens.—Religious Affairs at Present. | | CHAPTER IX. | From Queretaro to the Capital.—Plain of the Cazadero.—Tula.—The Great Spanish Drainage-cut.—Disastrous Inundations of Mexico City.—A Puzzle for Engineers.—Arrival at the Capital.—Hotel Life.—Restaurants and the Mode of Living.—Amusing Stories of Hotel Management.—Fondas and Fonditas.—Men for Chamber-maids.—Almuerzo.—A Morning Stroll along the Streets.—Women on their Way to Mass.—The Mantilla.—Sellers of Sacred Things.—Dealers in Lottery Tickets.—Lotteries Run by Government.—Attending a Drawing.—How the Affair was Conducted.—Flower-sellers. | | CHAPTER X. | The Cathedral of Mexico.—Site of the Aztec Teocalli.—Human Sacrifices.—Panorama of the Valley of Mexico.—Extent and Cost of the Cathedral; Chapels and Altars.—Tomb of Iturbide.—The Career and Tragic End of Iturbide.—The Richest Altar in the World.—Golden Candlesticks a Man could not Lift.—The Aztec Calendar-stone; its Interesting Features; Inscription on the Stone.—Brief Account of the Aztecs.—The Tribe called Mexicans.—Aztec Laws and Customs.—Prevalence of the Death Penalty.—Aztec Posting System.—Picture-writing.—Flower-show in the Zocalo.—A Fashionable Assemblage.—Wonderful Work in Feathers. | |   |
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