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The Numbers affixed to the various Articles of Food, &c.
are those referred to in the Third Edition of

THE

COOK’S ORACLE:

CONTAINING

RECEIPTS FOR PLAIN COOKERY

ON THE

MOST ECONOMICAL PLAN FOR PRIVATE FAMILIES:

ALSO

THE ART OF COMPOSING THE MOST SIMPLE, AND
MOST HIGHLY FINISHED

Broths, Gravies, Soups, Sauces, Store Sauces,

AND FLAVOURING ESSENCES:

The Quantity of each Article is

ACCURATELY STATED BY WEIGHT AND MEASURE;

THE WHOLE BEING THE RESULT OF

Actual Experiments

INSTITUTED IN

THE KITCHEN OF A PHYSICIAN.

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“Miscuit utile dulce.”

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THE THIRD EDITION,

WHICH IS ALMOST ENTIRELY RE-WRITTEN.

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LONDON:

PRINTED FOR A. CONSTABLE & Co. EDINBURGH;

AND HURST, ROBINSON, & Co. CHEAPSIDE.

And sold also by all Booksellers in Town and Country.

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1821.

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THE ART

OF

INVIGORATING AND PROLONGING

L I F E

BY

Diet and Regimen.

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“The choice and measure of the materials of which our Body is composed,—and what we take daily by Pounds,—is at least of as much importance as what we take seldom, and only by Grains and Spoonsful.”—Dr. Arbuthnot on Aliment, pref. p. iii.

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The Editor of the following pages had originally an extremely Delicate Constitution;—and at an early period devoted himself to the study of Physic, with the hope—of learning how to make the most of his small stock of Health.

The System he adopted, succeeded, and he is arrived at his forty-third year, in tolerable good Health; and this without any uncomfortable abstinence:—his maxim has ever been, “dum Vivimus, Vivamus.”

He does not mean the Aguish existence of the votary of Fashion—whose Body is burning from voluptuous intemperance to-day, and freezing in miserable collapse to-morrow—not extravagantly consuming in a Day, the animal spirits which Nature intended for the animation of a Week—but keeping the expense of the machinery of Life within the income of Health,—which the Constitution can regularly and comfortably supply.

This is the grand “arcanum duplicatum” for “Living all the days of your Life.”

The Art of Invigorating the Health, and improving the Strength of Man, has hitherto only been considered for the purpose of training1 him for Athletic Exercises—but I have often thought that a similar plan might be adopted with considerable advantage, to animate and strengthen enfeebled Constitutions—prevent Gout—reduce Corpulency—cure Nervous and Chronic Weakness—Hypochondriac and Bilious Disorders, &c.—to increase the Enjoyment, and prolong the duration of Feeble Life—for which Medicine, unassisted by Diet and Regimen,—affords but very trifling and temporary help.

The universal desire of repairing, perfecting, and prolonging Life, has induced many ingenious men to try innumerable experiments on almost all the products of the Animal, Vegetable, and Mineral kingdoms, with the hope of discovering Agents, that will not merely increase or diminish the force or frequency of the Pulse; but with an ardour as romantic as the search after the Philosopher’s Stone, they have vainly hoped, that Panaceas might be found possessing the power of curing “all the evils that flesh is heir to.”

This is evident enough to all who have examined the early Pharmacopoeias, which are full of heterogeneous compounds, the inventions of interested, and the imaginations of ignorant men.

The liberal and enlightened Physicians of the last and present century have gradually expunged most of these, and made the science of Medicine sufficiently intelligible to those whose business it is to learn it—if Medicine be entirely divested of its Mystery, its power over the Mind, which in most cases forms its main strength, will no longer exist.

It was a favourite remark of the celebrated Dr. John Brown2, that “if a student in Physic employed seven years in storing his memory with the accepted, but,—unfortunately, in nine cases out of ten,—imaginary powers of Medicine, he would, if he did not possess very extraordinary sagacity, lose a much longer time in discovering the multiform delusions his medical oracles had imposed upon him—before he ascertains that, with the exception of Mercury for the Lues,—Bark for Intermittents,—and Sulphur for Psora—the Materia Medica does not furnish many Specifics—and may be almost reduced to Evacuants and Stimuli:”—However, these, skilfully administered, afford all the assistance to Nature, that can be obtained from Art!

Let not the uninitiated in Medical Mysteries imagine for a moment, that the Editor desires to depreciate their Importance—but observe once for all—that he has only one reason for writing this Book—which is, to warn you against the ordinary causes of Disorder—and to teach you the easiest and most salutary method of preventing or subduing it, and of recovering and preserving Health and Strength, when, in spite of all your prudence, you are overtaken by sickness, and have no Medical Friend ready to defend you.

Experience has so long proved the actual importance of Training—that Pugilists will not willingly engage without such preparation.

The principal rules for which are,—to go to Bed early—to Rise early—to take as much Exercise as you can in the open air, without fatigue—to Eat and Drink moderately of plain nourishing Food—and especially,—to keep the Mind diverted3, and in as easy and cheerful a state as possible.

Somewhat such a system is followed at the fashionable watering places—and great would be the improvement of Health that would result from it,—if it was not continually counteracted, by visits to the Ball Room4 and the Card Table.

A residence in the Country will avail little, if you carry with you there, the irregular habits, and late hours of fashionable Life.

Do not expect much benefit from mere change of Air—the purest breezes of the country will produce very little effect, unless accompanied by plenty of regular Exercise5—Temperance—and, above all, Tranquillity of Mind.—See Obs. on “Air” and “Exercise.”

The following is a brief sketch of the usual Method of Training Persons for Athletic Exercises.

The Alimentary Canal6 is cleansed by an Emetic, and then two or three Purgatives.—See Index.

They are directed to eat Beef and Mutton7—rather under, than over-done, and without either Seasoning or Sauce—Broils, (No. 94), are preferred to either Roasts (No. 19), or Boils—and stale Bread or Biscuit.

Neither Veal—Lamb—Pork—Fish—Milk—Butter—Cheese—Puddings—Pastry—or Vegetables, are allowed.

Beef and Mutton only (fresh, not salted) are ordered;—but we believe this restriction is seldom entirely submitted to.

Nothing tends more to renovate the Constitution, than a temporary retirement to the Country.

The necessity of breathing a pure Air, and the strictest Temperance, are uniformly and absolutely insisted upon by all Trainers;—the striking advantages resulting therefrom, we have heard as universally acknowledged by those who have been trained.

Mild Home-brewed Ale is recommended for Drink—about three pints per day—taken with Breakfast and Dinner, and a little at Supper—not in large draughts—but by mouthfuls, alternately with your food.

Stale Beer often disturbs delicate Bowels—if your Palate warns you that Malt Liquor is inclined to be hard, neutralize it with a little Carbonate of Potash;—that good sound Beer, which is neither nauseous from its newness, nor noxious from its staleness, is in unison with the animating diet of Animal Food, which we are recommending as the most effective antidote to debility, &c. experience has sufficiently proved.—There can be no doubt, that the combination of the tonic power of the Hop, and the nourishment of the Malt, is much more invigorating than any simple vinous spirit,—but the difficulty of obtaining it good, ready brewed—and the trouble of Brewing is so great—that happy are those who are contented with Good Toast and Water (No. 463*), as a diluent to solid food—and a few glasses of wine as a finishing “Bonne Bouche.”

Those who do not like Beer—are allowed Wine and Water—Red wine is preferred to White, and not more than half a pint, (i. e. eight ounces), or four common sized wine glasses, after Dinner—none after Supper—nor any Spirits, however diluted.

Eight hours’ Sleep are necessary—but this is generally left to the previous habits of the Person; those who take active Exercise, require adequate Rest.

Breakfast8 upon meat at eight o’clock—Dinner at two—Supper is not advised, but they may have a little bit of cold meat about eight o’clock, and take a walk after, between it and ten, when they go to Bed.

The Time requisite to screw a Man up to his fullest Strength, depends upon his previous habits and Age. In the Vigour of Life, between 20 and 35, a Month or two is generally sufficient:—more or less, according as he is older, and as his previous Habits have been in opposition to the above system.

By this mode of proceeding for two or three months—the Constitution of the human frame is greatly improved, and the Courage proportionately increased,—a person who was breathless, and panting on the least exertion—and had a certain share of those Nervous and Bilious Complaints, which are occasionally the companions of all who reside in great Cities—becomes enabled to run with ease and fleetness.

The Restorative Process having proceeded with healthful regularity—every part of the Constitution is effectively invigorated—a Man feels so conscious of the actual augmentation of all his powers, both Bodily and Mental, that he will undertake with alacrity—a task which before he shrunk from encountering.

The clearness of the Complexion is considered the best criterion of a Man’s being in good condition—to which we add the appearance of the Under-Lip—which is plump and rosy, in proportion to the healthy plethora of the constitution:—this is a much more certain symptom of vigorous Health than any indication you can form from the appearance of the Tongue—or the Pulse, which is another very uncertain and deceiving Index,—the strength and frequency of which, not only varies in different persons, but in the same person in different circumstances and positions;—in some Irritable Constitutions the vibration of the Heart varies almost as often as it Beats—when we walk—stand—sit—or lie down—early in the morning—late in the evening—elated with good news—depressed by bad, &c.—when the Stomach is empty—after taking food—after a full meal of Nutritive food—after a spare one of Maigre materials. Moreover, it is impossible to ascertain the degree of deviation from Health by feeling a Pulse—unless we are well acquainted with the peculiarity of it, when the patient is in Health.

The Editor has now arrived at the most difficult part of his work, and needs all the assistance that Training can give, to excite him to proceed with any hope of developing the subject, with that perspicuity and effect—which it deserves, and he desires to give it.

The Food—Clothes—Fire—Air—Exercise—Sleep—Wine, &c. which may be most advisable for invigorating the Health of one individual—may be by no means the best adapted to produce a like good effect with another;—at the time of Life most people arrive at, before they think about these things—they are often become the slaves of habits which have grown with their growth, and strengthened with their strength—and the utmost that can be done after our 40th year, is to endeavour very gradually to correct them.

We caution those who are past the Meridian of Life (see Index)—to beware of suddenly abandoning established Customs, (especially of diminishing the warmth of their Clothing, or the nutritive quality of what they Eat and Drink), which, by long usage, often become as indispensable, as a Mathematical Valetudinarian reckoned his Flannel Waistcoat was—“in the ratio that my Body would be uncomfortable without my Skin—would my Skin be, without my Flannel Waistcoat.”

We recommend those who are in search of Health and Strength, to read the remarks which are classed under the titles Wine,—Siesta,—Clothes,—“Air”—“Fire”—Sleep—Peptic Precepts, &c.

With the greatest deference, we submit the following sketch, to be variously modified by the Medical Adviser—according to the season of the Year—the Age—Constitution—and previous habits of the Patient,—the purpose it is intended to accomplish—or the Disorder it is intended to prevent or cure.

The first thing to be done, is to put the Principal Viscera into a condition to absorb the pabulum vitÆ, we put into the Stomach—as much depends on the state of the Organs of Digestion9 as on the quality of our Diet:—therefore commence with taking, early in the morning, fasting, about half an hour before Breakfast, about two drams of Epsom Salts (i. e. as much as will move the Bowels twice, not more,) in half a pint of warm water.—See Index.

The following day, go into a Tepid Bath, heated to about 95 degrees of Fahrenheit.

The Third day, take another dose of Salts—keeping to a light diet of Fish—Broths, &c. (Nos. 490, 563, 564, and 572). During the next week, take the Tonic Tincture, as directed in (No. 569). See Index. Thus far—any person may proceed without any difficulty,—and great benefit will he derive therefrom, if he cannot pursue the following part of the System:— Rise early—if the Weather permits, amuse yourself with Exercise in the open air for some time before Breakfast—the material for which, I leave entirely to the previous habit of the Individual.

Such is the sensibility of the Stomach, when recruited by a good night’s rest, that of all alterations in Diet, it will be most disappointed at any change of this Meal—either of the time it is taken—or of the quantity, or quality of it—so much so, that the functions of a delicate Stomach will be frequently deranged throughout the whole Day after.

The Breakfast I recommend, is Good Milk Gruel (No. 572), see Index, or Beef Tea (No. 563), see Index, or Portable Beef Tea (No. 252); a pint of the latter may be made for two-pence halfpenny, as easily as a Basin of Gruel.

The interval between Breakfast and Eleven o’clock, is the best time for Intellectual business—then Exercise again till about Twelve—when probably the Appetite will be craving for a Luncheon, which may consist of a bit of roasted Poultry,—a basin of good Beef Tea, or Eggs poached, (No. 546), or boiled in the Shell, (No. 547), Fish plainly dressed, (No. 144, or 145, &c.), or a Sandwich (No. 504),—stale Bread—and half a pint of good Home-brewed Beer—or Toast and Water, (No. 463*),—see Index,—with about one-fourth or one-third part of its measure of Wine, of which Port is preferred.

The solidity of the Luncheon should be proportionate to the time it is intended to enable you to wait for your Dinner, and the activity of the Exercise you take in the mean-time.

Take Exercise and Amusement as much as is convenient in the open air again, till past Four—then rest, and prepare for Dinner at Five—which should be confined to One Dish, of roasted Beef (No. 19), or Mutton (No. 23), five days in the week—boiled meat one—and roasted Poultry one—with a portion of sufficiently boiled ripe Vegetables—mashed Potatoes are preferred, see (No. 106), and the other fourteen ways of dressing this useful root.

The same restrictions from other articles of Food10, as we have already mentioned in the plan for Training—i. e. if the person trained—has not arrived at that time of Life, when habit has become so strong—that to deprive him of those accustomed Indulgencies, &c. by which his health has hitherto been supported—would be as barbarous—as to take away Crutches from the Lame. Drink at Dinner, a pint of home-brewed Beer, or Toast and Water (No. 463*), with one-third or one-fourth part Wine, and a few glasses of Wine after—the less, the better—but take as much as custom has made necessary to excite that degree of circulation in your system, without which, you are uncomfortable. Read Obs. on “Wine.”

After Dinner sit quiet for a couple of hours—the Semi-Siesta is a pleasant position—i. e. the Feet on a stool about eight inches high,—or if your Exercise has fatigued you, lie down, and indulge in Horizontal Refreshment11:—this you may sometimes do with advantage before Dinner, if you have taken more Exercise than usual, and you feel tired:—when the Body is fatigued, the Stomach, by sympathy, will, in proportion, be incapable of doing its business of Digestion.

At Seven, a little Tea, or warmed Milk with a very little Rum, a bit of Sugar, and a little Nutmeg in it—after which, Exercise and Amusement again, if convenient, in the open air.

For Supper, a Biscuit, or a Sandwich, (No. 504), or a bit of cold Fowl, &c. and a glass of Beer, or Wine, and Toast and Water (No. 463*),—and occasionally (No. 572), i. e. as light a Supper as possible—the sooner after Ten you retire to rest, the better.

For those who Dine very late—the best Supper is Gruel (No. 572), or a little Bread and Cheese, or Pounded Cheese (No. 542), and a glass of Beer—but if You have had an early, or a Ban Yan Dinner—or Instinct suggests that the exhaustion, from extraordinary exertion, requires more restorative materials,—furnish your Stomach with a Chop or a Chicken, &c. or some of the easily digestible and nutritive materials referred to in the Index under the article Food for Feeble Stomachs—and as much diffusible stimulus as will animate the Circulation, and ensure the influence of “Nature’s sweet restorer, Balmy Sleep,”—the soundness of which,—depends entirely on the Stomach being in good temper, and the Heart supporting the circulation with Salutary Vigour. See the Art of Sleeping.—Index.

For the Diet to be confined to Beef and Mutton, is a sufficient abridgment of the amusements of the Mouth—it is a barbarous mortification, to insist on these being always cooked the same way12, and we advise an occasional indulgence in the whole range of plain Cookery, from (No. 1) to (No. 98).

Broils (No. 94) are ordered in the plan for Training, probably, because the most convenient manner of obtaining the desired portion Hot,—(Food is then most easy of Digestion—before the process of Digestion can commence, it must take the temperature of the Stomach—which, when in a languid state, has no superfluous Heat to spare—) but as the Lean part is often scorched and dried, and the Fat becomes empyreumatic, from being in immediate contact with the Fire—a slice of well roasted Ribs (No. 20),—or Sir Loin of Beef (No. 19), or a Leg, Neck, Loin, or Saddle of Mutton (No. 23, or 26, or 31), must be infinitely more succulent and nutritive—whether this be rather over, or under-done, the previous habits of the Eater must determine—the Medium, between over and under-dressing—is in general most Agreeable, and certainly most Wholesome. That Meat which is considerably under-done, contains more Nutriment than that which is over-done, is true enough;—that which is not done at all, contains a great deal more—but, in the ratio that it is Raw13, so is it unfortunately difficult of digestion, as Spallanzani (see Index) has proved by actual and satisfactory experiments.

Our Food must be done—either by our Cook,—or by our Stomach,—before Digestion can take place—(see 1st page of Obs. on Siesta); surely no man in his senses, would willingly be so wanting in consideration of the comfort, &c. of his Stomach, as to give it the needless trouble of Cooking and Digesting also—and waste its valuable energies in work which a Spit or a Stewpan can do better.

Thoroughly dressed Beef (No. 19), or Mutton (No. 23), is incomparably the most animating Food we can furnish our Stomachs with, and sound Home-brewed Beer, the most invigorating Drink—It is indeed, Gentle Reader, notwithstanding a foolish fashion has banished the natural beverage of Great Britain—as extremely ungenteel.—

The best Tests of the Restorative qualities of Food—are a small quantity of it satisfying Hunger,—the strength of the Pulse after it,—and the length of Time which elapses before Appetite returns again:—according to these Rules, the Editor’s own experience gives a decided verdict in favour of Roasted or Broiled Beef (No. 19 or 94), or Mutton (No. 26 or 23), as most nutritive,—then Game and Poultry, of which the meat is Brown, (No. 59, or 61, or 74), next Veal and Lamb and Poultry, of which the meat is White—the Fat kinds of Fish, Eels—Salmon—Herrings, &c. and least nutritive, the white kinds of Fish—such as Whiting, Cod, Soles, Haddocks, &c. For further information, see Oysters, (No. 181).

The celebrated Trainer, Sir Thomas Parkyns, &c., “greatly preferred Beef-eaters—to Sheep-biters, as they called those who ate Mutton.”

By Dr. Stark’s very curious Experiments on Diet, p. 110, it appears, that “when he fed upon Roasted Goose, he was much more vigorous both in Body and Mind, than with any other food.”

That Fish is less nutritive than Flesh—the speedy return of Hunger after a dinner of Fish is sufficient proof—when a Trainer at Newmarket14 wishes to waste a Jockey—he is not allowed Pudding, if Fish can be had. Crabs,—Lobsters (No. 176), Prawns, &c. unless thoroughly boiled, (which those sold ready boiled seldom are), are tremendously indigestible.

Shell Fish have long held a high rank in the catalogue of easily digestible and speedily restorative Foods:—of these Oysters (No. 181), certainly deserve the best character; but we think that they, as well as Eggs,—Gelatinous Substances,—Rich Broths15, &c. have acquired not a little more reputation for these qualities than they deserve.

Oysters are often cold and uncomfortable to Dyspeptic Stomachs—unless warmed with a certain quantity of Pepper, and good White Wine.

To recruit the Animal Spirits, and produce Strength, there is nothing like Beef and Mutton—moreover, when kept till properly tender, none will give less trouble to the Digestive organs—and more substantial excitement to the Constitution.

The Editor has dined for some years principally upon plainly roasted or boiled Beef and Mutton, and has often observed, that if he changes it for any other Food for several days together—that he suffers a diminution of strength, &c. and is disposed on such days to drink an additional Glass of Wine, &c. See Index.

However, the fitness of various Foods, and Drinks—and the quantity of Nutriment which they afford—depends very much upon how they are prepared, and as much on the inclination and abilities of the concoctive faculties, which have the task of converting them into Chyle.

It is quite as absurd, to suppose, that one kind of Diet, &c. is equally adapted to every kind of Constitution—as that one Remedy will cure all Diseases.

To produce the highest degree of Health and Strength—we must supply the Stomach with not merely that material which contains the greatest quantity of Nourishment—but in making our reckoning, must take into the account, the degree in which it is adapted to the habits and powers of the Organ which is to digest it—the Arms of a Giant are of little use in the Hands of a Dwarf.

The Plan we have proposed, was calculated for Midsummer-day,—when plenty of hard Exercise in the open Air will soon create an Appetite for the substantial Diet we have recommended—it is taken for granted, that a Person has the opportunity of devoting a couple of months to the re-establishment of his Health—and that during that time, he will be content to consider himself in the same state as any other Animal out of condition—and disposed to submit cheerfully to such a modification of the rules recommended, as his Medical Adviser may deem most convenient to the circumstances of the Case, and the Age, the Constitution, and previous habits of the Patient, &c. &c.

Every part of this system must be observed in proportion—and Exercise increased in the same degree, that Nourishment is introduced to the Constitution.

The best General Rule for Diet that I can write, is to Eat and Drink only of such Foods—at such times,—and in such quantities—as Experience has convinced you, agree with your Constitution—and absolutely to avoid all other.

A very different Regimen must be observed by those who live a Life with Labour—or Exercise—or of Indolence,—and at the different Periods of Life.

Human Life may be divided into Three Stages. The First, The period of Preparation from our birth, till about our 21st year, when the Body has generally attained the acmÉ of expansion:—till then, a continual and copious supply of Chyle is necessary, not only to keep our machinery in repair, but to furnish material for the increase of it.

The Second from 21 to 42, The period of Active Usefulness; during which, nothing more is wanted, than to restore the daily waste, occasioned by the actions of the Vital and Animal Functions.

The Third, The period of Decline: this comes on and proceeds with more or less celerity, according to the original strength of the Constitution, and the Economy16 with which it has been managed during the second period. (Age is a relative term,—one man is as old at 40 as another is at 60): but after 42, the most vigorous become gradually more passive17—and after 63, pretty nearly quite so.

SIR WILLIAM JONES’S ANDROMETER.

3

6

9

12

1

—Ideas received through the Senses.

—Speaking, and Pronunciation.

—Letters, and Spelling.

—Ideas retained in the Memory.

5

—Reading and Repeating.

—Grammar of his own Language.

—Memory exercised.

—Moral and Religions Lessons.

—Natural History and Experiments.

10

—Dancing, Music, Drawing, Exercises.

—History of his own Country.

—Latin.

—Greek.

—French and Italian.

15

—Translations.

—Compositions in Verse and Prose.

—Rhetoric and Declamation.

—History and Law.

—Logic and Mathematics.

20

—Rhetorical Exercises.

—Philosophy and Politics.

—Compositions in his own Language.

—Declamations continued.

—Ancient Orators studied.

25

—Travel and Conversation.

—Speeches at the Bar, or in Parliament.

—State Affairs.

—Historical Studies continued.

—Law and Eloquence.

30

—Public Life.

—Private and Social Virtues.

—Habits of Eloquence improved.

—Philosophy resumed at leisure.

—Orations published.

35

—Exertions in State and Parliament.

—Civil Knowledge mature.

—Eloquence perfect.

—National Rights defended.

—The Learned protected.

40

—The Virtuous assisted.

—Compositions published.

—Science improved.

—Parliamentary Affairs.

—Laws enacted, and supported.

45

—Fine Arts patronized.

—Government of his Family.

—Education of his Children.

—Vigilance as a Magistrate.

—Firmness as a Patriot.

50

—Virtue as a Citizen.

—Historical Works.

—Oratorical Works.

—Philosophical Works.

—Political Works.

55

—Mathematical Works.

}

}

}Continuation of former Pursuits.

}

60

}

—Fruits of his Labour enjoyed.

—A glorious Retirement.

—An amiable Family.

—Universal Respect.

65

—Consciousness of a Virtuous Life.

}

}

}Perfection of Earthly Happiness.

}

70

—Preparation for ETERNITY.

The most common cause of Dyspeptic Disorders, which are so prevalent at the commencement of the Third Period of Life—is an increasing indolence, inducing us to diminish the degree of the active Exercise we have been in the habit of taking—without in a corresponding degree diminishing the quantity of our Food—on the contrary, people seem to expect the Stomach to grow stronger and to work harder as it gets Older, and to almost entirely support the Circulation without the help of Exercise.—

As the activity of our existence—and the accommodating powers of the Stomach, &c. diminish—in like degree—must we lessen the quantity—and be careful of the quality of our Food, eat oftener and less at a time—or Indigestion—and the multitude of Disorders of which it is the fruitful parent, will soon destroy us.

The System of Cornaro has been oftener quoted, than understood—most people imagine, it was one of rigid Abstinence and comfortless Self-denial—but this was not the case:—his Code of Longevity consisted in steadily obeying the suggestions of Instinct—and Economizing his Vitality, and living under his income of Health,—carefully regulating his temper—and cultivating cheerful habits.

The following is a Compendium of his plan—in his own words.

He tells us that when Fourscore

“I am used to take in all twelve ounces of solid nourishment, such as Meat, and the yolk of an Egg, &c. and fourteen ounces of drink:—I eat Bread, Soup, New-laid Eggs, Veal, Kid, Mutton, Partridge, Pullets, Pigeons, &c. and some Sea and River Fish.

“I made choice of such Wines and Meats as agreed with my Constitution, and declined all other diet—and proportioned the quantity thereof to the strength of my Stomach, and abridged my Food—as my years increased.

“Every one is the best judge of the food which is most agreeable to his own Stomach,—it is next to impossible, to judge what is best for another;—the Constitutions of men are as different from each other as their complexions.”—p. 36.

“1st. Take care of the quality.

“2dly. Of the quantity—so as to eat and drink nothing that offends the Stomach, nor any more than you can easily digest: your experience ought to be your guide in these two principles when you arrive at Forty: by that time you ought to know that you are in the midst of your life; thanks to the goodness of your Constitution which has carried you so far: but that when you are arrived to this period, you go down the hill apace—and it is necessary for you to change your course of life, especially with regard to the quantity and quality of your diet—because it is on that, the health and length of our days do radically depend. Lastly; if the former part of our lives has been altogether sensual—the latter ought to be rational and regular; order being necessary for the preservation of all things, especially the life of man.—Longevity cannot be attained without continence and sobriety18.”

By the small quantity of Food, and great proportion of his Meat to his Drink, this noble Venetian, at the age of forty, freed himself, by the advice of his Physicians, from several grievous disorders contracted by intemperance, and lived in health of body, and great cheerfulness of mind, to above an hundred.—Briefly, the secret of his Longevity seems to have been, a gradually increasing Temperance “in omnibus”—and probably, after a certain time of Life, abstinence from the “opus magnum.” The source of physical and moral Health, Happiness, and Longevity,—

Intensive Life, can only be purchased at the price of Extensive.

If you force the Heart to gallop as fast during the second, as it does during the first stage of life—and make the steady fire of 42, to blaze as brightly as the flame of 21,—it will very soon be burnt out.

Those who cannot be content to submit to that diminution of action ordained by nature, against which there is no appeal,—as it is the absolute covenant, by the most attentive and implicit observance of which we can only hope to hold our lease of life comfortably,—will soon bring to the diminished energy of the Second Stage of Life—the Paralysis of the Third. From 40 to 60, a witty French author tells us, is “La belle saison19 pour la Gourmandise;”—for the artificial pleasures of the Palate, it may be, and the Bon Vivant cultivates them as the means of prolonging the vigour of Youth—and procrastinating the approach of Age.

Restoration may certainly be considerably facilitated, by preparing and dressing food so as to render it easily soluble—if the secret of Rejuvenization be ever discovered; it will be found in the Kitchen.

Very soon after we pass the Meridian of Life, (which, according to those who train men for athletic exercises, and to Dr. Jameson,20 is our 28th, and to Dr. Cheyne, about our 35th year,) the elasticity of the Animal System imperceptibly diminishes,—our Senses become less susceptible, and are every hour getting the worse for wear, however Self-Love, assisted by your Hair-dresser, and Tailor, &c. may endeavour to persuade you to the contrary.

Digestion and Sleep are less perfect—the restorative process more and more fails to keep pace with the consuming process—the body is insufficiently repaired, more easily deranged, and with more difficulty brought into adjustment again; till at length the vital power being diminished, and the organs deteriorated,—Nourishment can neither be received, or prepared and diffused through the constitution—and Consumption so much exceeds Renovation, that decay rapidly closes the scene of Life.

One may form some Idea of the Self-consumption of the human body, by reflecting that the pulsation of the Heart, and the motion of the Blood connected with it, takes place 100,000 times every day; i. e. on an average

the pulse21 beats	70	times in a minute,
multiplied by	60	minutes in an hour,
	——
	4200
	24	hours in a day,
	——–
	16800
	8400
	———
	100800	pulsations in a day.

What Machine, of the most adamantine material, will not soon be the worse for wear, from such incessant vibration—especially if the Mainsprings of it are not preserved in a state of due regulation?

The generative faculties, which are the last that Nature finishes—are the first that fail.—Economy in the exercise of them—especially before and after the second period of Life—is the grand precept for the restoration and accumulation of Strength, the preservation of Health, and the prolongation of Life;—we are vigorous, in proportion to the perfection of the performance of the Restorative process, i. e. as we Eat hearty, and Sleep soundly—as our Body loses the power of renovating itself, in like ratio, fails its faculty of creating—what may be a salutary subduction of the superfluous health of the Second—during the Third period of life, will be a destructive sacrifice of the strength of both the Mind and the Body.—See also the 9th chapter of the First Edition of Willich on Diet. 8vo. 1799. The next organical defect, (we perceive too plainly for our self-love to mistake it,) is manifested by the Eye22. To read a small print—you must remove it from the Eye further than you have been accustomed to do—and place it in a better light.

The Falsetto Voice now begins to fail, and the Ear loses some of its quickness—several extraordinary Musicians have been able till then, if a handful of the keys of a Harpsichord were put down so as to produce the most irrelative combinations—to name each half note without a mistake.—When I mentioned this to that excellent Organ Player, Mr. Charles Wesley, he said, “At the age of twenty, I could do it myself—but I can’t now.” He was then in his 55th year.

About the same time, the Palate is no longer contented with being employed as a mere shovel to the Stomach,—and as it finds its master becomes every day more difficult to please—learns to be a more watchful Purveyor.

After 40,—the strongest People begin to talk about being Bilious, or Nervous, &c. &c. and the Stomach will no longer do its duty properly—unless the Food offered to it is perfectly agreeable to it—when offended, Indigestion brings with it, all that melancholy depression of the Animal Spirits, which disables a Man from either thinking with precision, or acting with vigour—during the distressing suspension of the restorative process—arise all those miseries of Mind and Body, which drive Fools to get drunk, and make Madmen commit suicide:—without due attention to Diet, &c. the Third period of Life is little better than a Chronic Disease.

As our assimilating powers become enfeebled, we must endeavour to entertain them with food so prepared, as to give them the least trouble, and the most nourishment23.

In the proportion that our Food is restorative, and properly digested—our bodies are preserved in Health and Strength—and all our faculties continue vigorous and perfect.

If it is unwholesome, ill-prepared, and indigestible—the Body languishes, and is exhausted even in its youth—its strength and faculties daily decrease, and it sinks beneath the weight of the painful sensations attendant on a state of Decay.

Would to Heaven that a Cook could help our Stomachs, as much as an Optician can our Eyes: our Existence would be as much more perfect than it now is, as our Sight is superior to our other Senses. “The vigour of the Mind decays with that of the Body—and not only Humour and Invention, but even Judgment and Resolution, change and languish, with ill constitution of Body and of Health.”—Sir William Temple.

The following account of the successful REDUCTION OF CORPULENCE AND IMPROVEMENT OF HEALTH, the Editor can vouch for being a faithful statement of Facts.

30 January, 1821.

MY DEAR SIR,

In consequence of the Conversation I had with you, upon the advantages I had derived from Exercise and attention to Diet in the reduction of Weight, and your desire that I should communicate as far as I recollect them, the particulars of my Case; I have great pleasure in forwarding to you the following Statement.

I measure in height six Feet and half an Inch,—possess a sound Constitution and considerable activity.—At the age of Thirty I weighed about 18 Stone—two years afterwards I had reached the great weight of nineteen Stone, in perfect Health, always sleeping well and enjoying good Appetite and Spirits—soon after, however, I began to experience the usual attendants on fullness of Habit, a disinclination to rise in the morning from drowsiness, heaviness about the Forehead after I had risen, and a disposition to Giddiness;—I was also attacked by a complaint in one of my Eyes, the Symptoms of which it is unnecessary to describe, but it proved to be occasioned by fullness of blood, as it was removed by cupping in the temple. I lost four ounces of blood from the temple; and thinking that the loss of a little more might be advantageous, I had eight ounces taken from the back; and in order to prevent the necessity, as far as possible, of future bleeding, I resolved to reduce the system—by increasing my Exercise and diminishing my Diet.

I therefore took an early opportunity of seeing Mr. Jackson, (whose respectability and skill as a teacher of sparring is universally acknowledged,) and after some Conversation with him, determined upon acting under his Advice.

I accordingly commenced Sparring, having provided myself with flannel Dresses, which I always used, being extremely careful on changing them to avoid the risk of cold, and I recollect no instance in which I was not successful.

I also had recourse to Riding Schools, riding without stirrups, so as to have the advantage of the most powerful exercise the Horse could give;—these exercises I took in the morning in the proportion probably of sparring twice a week, and riding three or four times.

Frequently at night I resumed my Exercise,—Walking and sometimes Running, generally performing about five miles an hour, till I again produced perspiration; every other Opportunity I could resort to of bodily exercise I also availed myself of.

In respect to diet, I had accustomed myself to Suppers and drinking excellent Table Beer in large quantities, and for probably ten Years, had indulged myself with Brandy and Water after Supper:—this practice I entirely discontinued, substituting Toast and Water with my Dinner, and Tea and a good allowance of Toast for Supper, always avoiding copious Draughts.

I left off drinking malt Liquor as a habit, and indeed, very seldom drank it at all.—I took somewhat less meat at Dinner, avoiding Pies and Puddings as much as possible, but always took three or four Glasses of Port after dinner.

During the time I was under this training, I took the opinion of an eminent Physician upon the subject, who entirely approved of my Plan, and recommended the occasional use of Aperient medicine, but which I seldom resorted to.

The Result of all this, was a reduction of my Weight of upwards of three Stone, or about Forty-five Pounds, in about six or seven months.—I found my activity very much increased, and my wind excellent, but, I think, my Strength not quite so great, though I did not experience any material Reduction of it: my Health was perfect throughout.

I then relaxed my System a little, and have up to the present time, being a period of ten Years, avoided the necessity of bleeding, and have enjoyed an almost uninterrupted continuance of good Health, although my Weight has gradually increased; sometimes, however, fluctuating between 7 or 8 Pounds and a Stone, according to my means of Exercise,—always increasing in Winter, and losing in Summer;—and at this moment (January 29th, 1821,) I am about a Stone more than I ought to be, having ascertained, that my best bodily Strength, is at sixteen Stone and a half.

When the object is to Reduce Weight, rest and moderate Food will always sufficiently restore the exhaustion arising from Exercise;—if an additional quantity of Food and nourishing Liquors be resorted to, the Body will in general be restored to the weight it was before the Exercise.

I have sometimes lost from ten ounces to a Pound in weight by an Hour’s sparring. If the object be not to reduce the weight, the Food may safely be proportioned to the Exercise.

You will readily perceive, that the plan I adopted, ought only to be resorted to by Persons of sound Constitution and of athletic bodily Frame,—it would be absurd to lay down a general rule for the adoption of all fat men.

I think, with all lusty men, the drinking of malt Liquor of any kind is injurious,—Meat taken more than once a day is liable to the same Objection. I still persevere in the disuse of malt Liquors and Spirits, and Suppers, seldom taking more than four Glasses of Wine as a habit,—although I do not now deem it necessary to make myself so far the Slave of habit, as to refuse the Pleasures of the Table when they offer.

I am, dear Sir,

Yours very truly,

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The following are the most interesting Facts in Dr. Bryan Robinson’s Essay on the Food and Discharges of the Human Body, 8vo. 1748, which has become scarce.

“I am now, in May 1747, in the 68th year of my age. The length of my Body is 63 Inches: I am of a sanguine but not robust constitution—and am at present neither lean nor fat. In the year 1721 the Morning weight of my body without Clothes, was about 131 Avoirdupois pounds, the daily weight of my food at a medium was about 85 Avoirdupois ounces, and the proportion of my Drink to my Meat, I judge was at that time about 2.5—to 1.

“At the latter end of May 1744, my weight was above 164 pounds, and the proportion of my Drink to my Meat was considerably greater than before, and had been so for some time. I was then seized with a Paralytic disorder, which obliged me to make an alteration in my diet. In order to settle the proportion of my Drink to my Meat, I considered what others have said concerning this proportion.

“According to Sanctorius, though he reckons it a disproportion, the drink to the meat in his time, was about 10 to 3 in temperate bodies.

Cornaro’s drink to his Meat, was as	7 to 6.
Mr. Rye’s, in winter, as	4 to 3.
Dr. Lining’s, at a medium	11 to 3.
And my drink to my meat	5 to 2.
A mean taken from all these makes the Drink to the Meat—about	2 to 1.

B. Robinson on Food and Discharges, p. 34.

“At the age of 64, by lessening my food, and increasing the proportion of my meat to my drink, i. e. by lessening my drink about a third part, (i. e. to 20 ounces) and my meat about a sixth, (i. e. 38 ounces) of what they were in 1721, I have freed myself for these two years past from the returns of a Sore throat and Diarrhoea,—Disorders I often had, though they were but slight, and never confined me. I have been much more costive than I was before, when I lived more fully, and took more Exercise, and have greatly, for my age, recovered the paralytic weakness I was seized with three years ago.

“Hence we gather, that good and constant Health consists in a just quantity of food; and a just proportion of the meat to the drink: and that to be freed from chronical disorders contracted by Intemperance—the quantity of food ought to be lessened; and the proportion of the meat to the drink increased—more or less, according to the greatness of the disorders, p. 61.

“I commonly ate four ounces of Bread and Butter, and drank half a pound of a very weak infusion of Green Tea for Breakfast. For Dinner I took two ounces of Bread, and the rest Flesh-meat,—Beef, Mutton, Pork, Veal, Hare, Rabbit, Goose, Turkey, Fowl tame and wild, and Fish. I generally chose the strongest meats as fittest, since they agreed well with my stomach, to keep up the power of my body under this great diminution of my food; I seldom took any Garden stuff—finding that it commonly lessened perspiration and increased my weight.—I drank four ounces of water with my meat and a pound of Claret after I had done eating. At night I ate nothing, but drank 12 ounces of water with a pipe of Tobacco, p. 63.

“There is but one Weight, under which a grown body can enjoy the best and most uninterrupted Health. p. 91. That Weight is such as enables the Heart to supply the several parts of the body with just quantities of Blood. p. 100.

“The weight under which an Animal has the greatest strength and activity—which I shall call its Athletic weight,—is that weight under which the Heart—and the proportion of the weight of the Heart to the weight of the body are greatest: the strength of the Muscles is measured by the strength of the Heart, p. 117.

“If the weight of the body of an Animal be greater than its Athletic Weight, it may be reduced to that weight by evacuations, dry food and exercise. These lessen the weight of the Body, by wasting its fat, and lessening its Liver; and they increase the weight of the Heart, by increasing the quantity and motion of the blood. Thus a game Cock in ten days is reduced to his athletic weight, and prepared for fighting.

“If the Food, which with Evacuations and Exercise, reduced the Cock to his athletic weight in ten days, be continued any longer, the Cock will not have that strength and activity which he had before under his athletic weight; which may be owing to the loss of weight going on after he arrives at his athletic weight.

“It is known by experiment, that a Cock cannot stand above 24 hours at his athletic weight, and that a Cock has changed very much for the worse in 12 hours.

“When a Cock is at the top of his condition, that is, when he is at his athletic weight, his Head is of a glowing red colour, his Neck thick, and his Thigh thick and firm;—the day after his complexion is less glowing, his Neck thinner, and his Thigh softer;—and the third day his Thigh will be very soft and flaccid. p. 119.

“If the increase of weight in a small compass of time, rise to above a certain quantity, it will cause disorders.

“I can bear an increase of above a pound and a half in one day, and an increase of three or four pounds in six or seven days, without being disordered; but think I should suffer from an increase of five or six pounds in that time.

“An increase of weight may be carried off by lessening the Food,—or by increasing the Discharges.—The discharges may be increased either by exercise, or by evacuations procured by art.

“By lessening the daily quantity of my food to 23 ounces, I have lost 26 ounces;—by fasting a whole day, I lost 48 ounces, having gained 27 the day before.

“Mr. Rye was a strong, well set, corpulent man, of a sanguine complexion; by a brisk walk for one hour before breakfast he threw off, by insensible perspiration, one pound of increased weight; by a walk of three hours, he threw off two pounds of increased weight. The best way to take off an increase of weight which threatens a distemper, is either by fasting or exercise. p. 84.

“The mean loss of weight by several grown bodies caused by a purging medicine composed of a drachm of Jalap and ten grains of Calomel, was about 2¾ Avoirdupois pounds; and the mean quantity of Liquor, drank during the time of Purging, was about double the loss of Weight.”—Robinson on the Animal Economy, p. 458. “I have lost, by a spontaneous Diarrhoea, two pounds in twenty-four hours; and Mr. Rye lost twice that quantity in the same time.”—On the Food and Discharges of Human Bodies, by B. Robinson, p. 84.

“Most Chronic Diseases—arise from too much Food and too little Exercise,—both of which lessen the weight of the Heart and the quantity of Blood;—the first by causing fatness; the second by a diminution of the blood’s motion.

“Hence, when the Liver is grown too large by Intemperance and Inactivity, it may be lessened and brought to a healthful magnitude by Temperance and Exercise.—It may be emptied other ways by art; but nothing can prevent its filling again, and consequently secure good and constant Health—but an exact Diet and Exercise. Purging and Vomiting may lessen the Liver, and reduce it to its just magnitude;—but these evacuations cannot prevent its increasing again, so long as persons live too fully, and use too little exercise—and can only be done by lessening the Food and increasing the Exercise.

“Much sleep, much food, and little exercise, are the principal things which make animals grow fat. If the Body, on account of Age or other Infirmities, cannot use sufficient Exercise, and takes much the same quantity of Sleep, its weight must be lessened by lessening the Food, which may be done by lessening the Drink, without making any change in the Meat; as I have proved myself by experience.”—p. 90.

On this subject, see also—Dr. Stark on Diet, and Sanctorius’ Medecina Statica. Dr. Heming on Corpulency.—Mr. Wadd on Corpulency.—Dr. Arbuthnot on Aliment.

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