CHAP.

PAGE.

Introduction

vii

Preface

xxxv

I.

Over the Border

1

II.

Turkish Travelling

14

III.

Constantinople

30

IV.

The Troad

41

V.

Infidel Smyrna

50

VI.

Greek Mariners

63

VII.

Cyprus

74

VIII.

Lady Hester Stanhope

82

IX.

The sanctuary

111

X.

The Monks of Palestine

115

XI.

Galilee

123

XII.

My First Bivouac

128

XIII.

The Dead Sea

137

XIV.

The Black Tents

144

XV.

Passage of the Jordan

148

XVI.

Terra Santa

155

XVII.

The Desert

175

XVIII.

Cairo and the Plague

202

XIX.

The Pyramids

231

XX.

The Sphinx

235

XXI.

Cairo to Suez

237

XXII.

Suez

246

XXIII.

Suez to Gaza

253

XXIV.

Gaza to Nablus

261

XXV.

Mariam

267

XXVI.

The Prophet Damoor

278

XXVII.

Damascus

284

XXVIII.

Pass of the Lebanon

293

XXIX.

Surprise of Satalieh

298

Appendix

308