GENERAL ACCOUNT OF KAMTSCHATKA.—GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION.—RIVERS.—SOIL.—CLIMATE.—VOLCANOES.—HOT SPRINGS.—PRODUCTIONS.—VEGETABLES.—ANIMALS.—BIRDS.—FISH.
Kamtschatka is the name of a peninsula situated on the eastern coast of Asia, running nearly north and south, from 52° to 61° north latitude; the longitude of its southern extremity being 156° 45' E. The isthmus, which joins it to the continent on the north, lies between the gulf of Olutorsk and the gulf of Penshinsk. Its southern extremity is Cape Lopatka, a word signifying the blade-bone of a man, and is so called from its supposed resemblance to it. The shape of the whole peninsula is not unlike that of a shoe, widening from the toe (which we may suppose to be Cape Lopatka) toward the middle, and narrowing again toward the heel, the neck of land above-mentioned connecting it with the continent. Its greatest breadth is from the mouth of the river Tigil to that of Kamtschatka, and is computed to be two hundred and thirty-six miles, from whence it narrows very gradually toward each extremity.
It is bounded on the north by the country of the Koriacks; to the south and east, by the north Pacific Ocean; and to the west, by the sea of Okotsk. A chain of high mountains stretches the whole length of the country, from north to south, dividing it nearly into two equal parts, from whence a great number of rivers take their rise, and empty themselves, on each side, into the Pacific Ocean and the sea of Okotsk.
There are three rivers of much greater magnitude than the rest; the Bolchoireka, or Great River, so called from bolchoia, which signifies great, and reka, a river; the river Kamtschatka, and the Awatska. The first empties itself into the sea of Okotsk, and is navigable for the Russian galliots upward of five leagues from its mouth, or within nine miles of Bolcheretsk, a town situated at the conflux of the Goltsoffka and the Bistraia, which here lose themselves in the Bolchoireka. The Bistraia itself is no inconsiderable river. It derives its source from the same mountain with the river Kamtschatka, and, by taking a direct contrary course, affords the Kamtschadales the means of transporting their goods by water, in small canoes, almost across the whole peninsula. The river Kamtschatka, after maintaining a course of near three hundred miles from south to north, winds round to the eastward, in which direction it empties itself into the ocean, a little to the southward of Kamtschatkoi Noss. Near the mouth of the Kamtschatka, to the north-west, lies the great lake called Nerpitsch, from nerpi, a Kamtschadale word signifying a seal, with which this lake abounds. About twenty miles up the river, reckoning from the mouth of the lake, is a fort called Nishnei Kamtschatska ostrog, where the Russians have built an hospital and barracks, and which, we were informed, is become the principal mart in this country.
The river Awatska arises from the mountains situated between the Bolchoireka and the Bistraia, and running, from north-west to south-east, a course of one hundred miles, falls into the bay of Awatska. The Tigil is likewise a river of considerable size, rising amidst some very high mountains, which lie under the same parallel with Kamtschatkoi Noss, and, running in an even course from south-east to north-west, falls into the sea of Okotsk. All the other rivers of this peninsula, which are almost infinite in number, are too small to deserve a particular enumeration.
If I may judge of the soil from what I saw of its vegetable productions, I should not hesitate in pronouncing it barren in the extreme. Neither in the neighbourhood of the bay, nor in the country I traversed on my journey to Bolcheretsk, nor in any of our hunting expeditions, did I ever meet with the smallest spot of ground that resembled what in England is called a good green turf, or that seemed as if it could be turned to any advantage, either in the way of pasturage, or other mode of cultivation. The face of the country in general was thinly covered with stunted trees, having a bottom of moss, mixed with low weak heath. The whole bore a more striking resemblance to Newfoundland than to any other part of the world I had ever seen.
It must however be observed, that I saw at Paratounca three or four stacks of sweet and very fine-looking hay; and Major Behm informed me, that many parts of the peninsula, particularly the banks of the river Kamtschatka and the Bistraia, produce grass of great height and strength, which they cut twice in the summer and that the hay is of a succulent quality, and particularly well adapted to the fattening of cattle. Indeed it should appear, from the size and fatness of the thirty-six head that were sent down to us from the Verchnei ostrog, and which we were told were bred and fattened in the neighbourhood, that they must have had the advantage of both good pastures and meadows. For it is worth our notice, that the first supply we received, consisting of twenty, came to us just at the close of the winter, and before the snow was off the ground, and therefore probably had tasted nothing but hay for the seven preceding months. And this agrees with what is related by Krascheninicoff, that there is no part of the country equal in fertility to that which borders on the river Kamtschatka; and that to the north and south it is much inferior, both in point of soil and climate. He relates, that repeated experiments have been made in the culture of oats, barley, and rye, in different quarters near this river, which have generally succeeded; that, in particular, some persons belonging to the convent of Jakutsk, who had settled in that part of the country, had sown barley there, which had yielded an extraordinary increase; and he has no doubt but that wheat, in many parts, particularly near the source of the Bistraia and Kamtschatka, would grow as well as in the generality of countries situated in the same latitude. Perhaps the superior fertility of the country here spoken of may, in a great measure, be accounted for, from its lying in that part of the peninsula which is by much the widest, and consequently farthest removed from the sea, on each side. The moist chilling fogs, and drizzling weather, which prevail almost perpetually along the coast, must necessarily render the parts adjacent very unfit for all the purposes of agriculture.
It is natural to suppose, that the severity of the climate must be in due proportion to the general sterility of the soil, of which it is probably the cause. The first time we saw this country was in the beginning of May, 1779, when the whole face of it was covered with snow, from six to eight feet deep. On the 6th we had snow, with the wind from the north-east. On the 8th of May, at noon, the thermometer stood at 32°; and the same day, some of our men were sent on shore to try to cut wood; but the snow was still so deep on the ground, as to render all their attempts fruitless. Nor was it found practicable to proceed in this necessary business, with all the efforts of a very stout party, till the 12th, at which time the thaw began to advance gradually. The sides of the hills were now in some places free from snow; and by the beginning of June, it was generally melted from the low lands. On the 15th of June, the day we sailed out of the harbour, the thermometer had never risen higher than 58°, nor the barometer than 30° 04'. The winds blew almost invariably from the eastward during our stay, and the south-east was more prevalent than any other.
On our return, the 24th of August, the foliage of the trees, and all other sorts of vegetation, seemed to be in the utmost state of perfection. For the remainder of this month, and through September, the weather was very changeable, but in no respect severe. The winds, at the beginning of the month, were for the most part easterly, after which they got round to the west. The greatest height of the thermometer was 65°, the lowest 40°. The barometer’s greatest height 30°, its lowest 29° 3'. So that upon the whole, during this month, an equal and moderate degree of temperature prevailed. But at the beginning of October, the tops of the hills were again covered with new-fallen snow, the wind continuing westerly.
In computing the seasons, the spring ought certainly not to be taken into the account. From the middle of June to the middle of September may be properly said to constitute the summer. October may be considered as an autumnal month; from thence till the middle of June it is perfect winter. It was toward the end of May that we made our journey, between Bolcheretsk and Awatska, over the snow in sledges.
It is said that the climate, in the country adjoining to the river Kamtschatka, is not less serene and temperate than in many parts of Siberia that are under the same latitude. This variation is probably owing to the same causes, to which the superior fertility of the soil in those parts has been before attributed. But it is not in the sterility of the ground alone that the Kamtschadales feel the unfavourable temperature of their climate. The uncertainty of the summer season sometimes prevents their laying up a sufficient stock of dried fish for their winter’s provision, and the moisture of the air causes worms to breed in them, which not unfrequently destroy the greatest part.
I do not remember that we had either thunder or lightning during our stay, excepting on the night of the eruption of the volcano; and, from the account of the inhabitants, they are very seldom troubled with storms of this kind, and never but in a slight degree. The general severity of the winter, as well as the dreadful hurricanes of wind and snow that season brings along with it, cannot be questioned, from the subterraneous habitations the natives are under a necessity of retiring to, for warmth and security. Major Behm told us, that the cold and inclemency of the winter of 1779 was such, that, for several weeks, all intercourse between the inhabitants was entirely stopped, every one being afraid to stir, even from one house to another, for fear of being frost-bitten. This extraordinary rigour of climate, in so low a latitude, may be accounted for, from its being situated to the east of an immense uncultivated tract of country, and from the prevalence of the westerly winds, blowing over so extensive and cold a continent. The extraordinary violence and impetuosity of the winds, is attributed to the subterraneous fires, the sulphureous exhalations, and the general volcanic disposition of the country.
This peninsula abounds in volcanos, of which only three have, for some past, been subject to eruptions. We have already mentioned that which is situated in the neighbourhood of Awatska. Besides this, there are others not less remarkable, according to the account given of them by Krascheninicoff.
The volcano of Tolbatchick is situated on a neck of ground between the river of Kamtschatka and Tolbatchick. The mountain, from the summit of which the eruptions proceed, is of a considerable height, and terminates in pointed rocks. In the beginning of the year 1739, there issued from it a whirlwind of flames, which reduced to ashes the forests of the neighbouring mountains. This was succeeded by a cloud of smoke, which spread over and darkened the whole country, till it was dissipated by a shower of cinders, that covered the ground to the distance of thirty miles. M. Krascheninicoff, who was at this time on a journey from Bolchoireka to the Kamtschatka ostrog, at no great distance from the mountain, relates, that the eruption was preceded by an alarming sound in the woods, which he thought the forerunner of some dreadful storm or hurricane, till three shocks of an earthquake, at about a minute’s interval each, convinced him of its real cause; but that he was hindered from approaching nearer the mountain by the cinders that fell, and prevented him from proceeding on his journey.
The third volcano is on the top of the mountain of Kamtschatka, which is mentioned as by far the highest in the peninsula. A thick smoke never ceases to ascend from its summit, and it has frequent eruptions of the most violent and dreadful kind, some of which were much talked of, and seemed to be fresh in the memories of the Kamtschadales.
The country is likewise said to contain numerous springs of hot water. The only one that I had an opportunity of seeing was at Natchikin ostrog, and hath been already described. Krascheninicoff makes mention of several others, and also of two very extraordinary pits or wells, at the bottom of which the water is seen to boil as in a caldron, with prodigious force and impetuosity; at the same time a dreadful noise issues out of them, and so thick a vapour, that a man cannot be seen through it.
Of the trees which fell under our notice, the principal are the birch, the poplar, the alder (with the bark of which they stain their leather), many species of the willow, but all small; and two sorts of dwarfish pines or cedars.[27] One of these grows upon the coast, creeping along the ground, and seldom exceeds two feet in height. It was of this sort we made our essence for beer, and found it excellent for the purpose. The other grows on the mountains, to a greater height, and bears a small nut or apple. We were told by the old Toion at Saint Peter and Saint Paul, that Beering, during the time he lay in that harbour, first taught them the use of the decoction of these pines, and that it had proved a most excellent remedy for the scurvy; but, whether from the great scarcity of sugar, or from what other cause we could not learn, we were sorry to find that it was no longer in use amongst them.
The birch was by far the most common tree we saw, and of this we remarked three sorts. Two of them fit for timber, and differing only in the texture and colour of the bark; the third of a dwarfish kind. This tree is applied to a great variety of uses by the inhabitants. The liquor, which, on tapping, it yields in great abundance, they drink without mixture, or any preparation, as we had frequent opportunities of observing, upon our journey to Bolcheretsk, and found it ourselves pleasant and refreshing, but somewhat purgative. The bark they convert into vessels, for almost all their domestic and kitchen purposes; and it is of the wood of this tree the sledges and canoes are also made.[28]
The birch, and every other kind of tree in the neighbourhood of the bay, were small and stunted; and they are obliged to go many miles up into the country for wood of a proper size to work into canoes, for the principal timbers of their balagans, and the like uses.
Besides the trees above-mentioned, Krascheninicoff relates, that the larch grows on the banks of the river Kamtschatka, and of those that fall into it, but no where else, and that there are firs in the neighbourhood of the river Berezowa; that there is likewise the service-tree (padus foliis annuis); and two species of the white-thorn, one bearing a red, the other a black berry.
Of the shrub kind, as junipers, the mountain-ash, wild rose-trees, and raspberry-bushes, the country produces great abundance, together with a variety of berries; blue-berries of two sorts, round and oval; partridge-berries, cran-berries, crow-berries, and black-berries. These the natives gather at proper seasons, and preserve, by boiling them into a thick jam, without sugar. They make no inconsiderable part of their winter provisions, and are used as sauce to their dried and salt fish, of which kind of food they are unquestionably excellent correctives. They likewise eat them by themselves, in puddings and various other ways, and make decoctions of them for their ordinary liquor.
We met with several wholesome vegetables in a wild state, and in great quantities, such as wild celery, angelica, chervil, garlic, and onions. Upon some few patches of ground in the valleys, we found excellent turnips, and turnip-radishes. The garden cultivation went no farther; yet from hence I am led to conclude, that many of the hardy sorts of vegetables (such at least as push their roots downward,) like carrots, parsnips, and beet, and perhaps potatoes, would thrive tolerably well. Major Behm told me, that some other sorts of kitchen vegetables had been tried, but did not answer; that neither any of the cabbage or lettuce kind would ever head; and that peas and beans shot up very vigorous stalks, flowered and podded, but the pods never filled. He likewise told me, that in the experiments made by himself at Bolcheretsk, with different sorts of farinaceous grain, there generally came up a very high and strong blade, which eared, but that the ears never yielded flour.
This short account of the vegetable productions reaches to such parts of the country only as fell within our notice. In the neighbourhood of the Kamtschatka river, where (as has been observed) both the soil and climate is by much the best in the whole peninsula, garden culture is attended to, and probably with great success, as appears from our having received at the same time, with a second drove of cattle from Verchnei, a present of cucumbers, of very large fine turnips, celery, and some other garden-stuff, of which I do not recollect the kinds.
There are two plants, which, from the great use made of them, merit a particular mention and description. The first is called by the natives the sarana; and by botanists, Lilium Kamtskatiense flore atro rubente.[29] The stem is about the thickness of that of the tulip, and grows to the height of five inches, is of a purple colour toward the bottom, and green higher up, and hath growing from it two tier of leaves of an oval figure, the lower consisting of three leaves, the uppermost of four, in the form of a cross: from the top of the stalk grows a single flower, of an exceedingly dark red colour, in shape resembling the flower of the narcissus, only much smaller: from the centre of the flower rises a style of a triangular form, and obtuse at the end, which is surrounded by six white stamina, whose extremities are yellow. The root is of the bulbous kind, and resembles in shape that of garlic, being much of the same size, but rounder, and having, like that, four or five cloves hanging together. The plant grows wild, and in considerable abundance: the women are employed in collecting the roots at the beginning of August, which are afterward dried in the sun, and then laid up for use. On our second arrival, this harvest was just over, and had fallen much short of its usual produce. It is a common observation amongst the Kamtschadales, that the bounty of Providence never fails them; for that such seasons as are most hurtful to the sarana, are always the most favourable for fishing; and that, on the contrary, a bad fishing month is always made up by the exuberance of the sarana harvest. It is used in cookery in various ways. When roasted in embers, it supplies the place of bread, better than any thing the country affords. After being baked in an oven, and pounded, it becomes an excellent substitute for flour and meal of every sort, and in this form is mixed in all their soups, and most of their other dishes. It is esteemed extremely nourishing, has a pleasant bitter taste, and may be eaten every day without cloying. We used to boil these roots, and eat them as potatoes, either alone or with our meat, and found them very wholesome and pleasant. It has been already mentioned, that this useful plant grows also at Oonalashka, where the roots of it are used, and constitute a considerable part of their food, in like manner as in Kamtschatka.
The other plant alluded to is called the sweet grass; the botanical description is, Heracleum Sibericum foliis pinnatis, foliolis quinis, intermediis sessilibus, corollulis uniformibus. Hort. Upsal. 65. The time I took particular notice of it was in May, when it was about a foot and a half high, had much the appearance of sedge, and was covered with a white down, or dust, which looked exceedingly like the hoar-frost hanging upon it, and might be rubbed off: it tasted as sweet as sugar, but was hot and pungent. The stalk is hollow, and consists of three or four joints, from each of which arise large leaves, and, when at its full growth, is six feet high.
This plant was formerly a principal ingredient in the cookery of most of the Kamtschadale dishes; but since the Russians got possession of the country, it has been almost entirely appropriated to the purpose of distillation. The manner in which it is gathered, prepared, and afterward distilled, is as follows: having cut such stalks as have leaves growing on them, of a proper age (the principal stem, by the time the plant has attained its full growth, having become too dry for their purpose), and scraped off with shells the downy substance on their surface, they are laid in small heaps, till they begin to sweat and smell. On growing dry again, they put them into sacks made of matting; where, after remaining a few days, they are gradually covered with a sweet saccharine powder, which exudes from the hollow of the stalk. From thirty-six pounds of the plant, in this state, they obtain no more than a quarter of a pound of powder. The women, whose province it is to collect and prepare the materials, are obliged to defend their hands with gloves whilst they are scraping the stalks, the rind they remove being of so acrid a quality, as to blister and even ulcerate whatever it touches.
The spirit is drawn from the plant in this state by the following process. After steeping bundles of it in hot water, they promote its fermentation in a small vessel, by the help of berries of the gimolost[30], or of the golubitsa[31], being careful to close up well the mouth of the vessel, and to keep it in a warm place whilst the fermentation is going on, which is generally so violent as to occasion a considerable noise, and to agitate the vessel in which it is contained. After drawing off this first liquor, they pour on more hot water, and make a second in the same manner. They then pour both liquor and herbs into a copper still, and draw off the spirit after the usual method. The liquor, thus obtained, is of the strength of brandy; and is called by the natives raka. Two pood (seventy-two pounds) of the plant yield generally one vedro (twenty-five pints) of raka.
Steller says, that the spirit distilled from this plant, unscraped, is exceedingly prejudicial to the health, and produces the most sudden and terrible nervous effects.
Besides these, Krascheninicoff mentions a variety of other plants, from whence the inhabitants prepare several decoctions; and which, being mixed with their fish, make palatable and wholesome ragouts. Such as the kipri[32], with which is brewed a pleasant common beverage; and, by boiling this plant and the sweet herb together, in the proportion of one to five of the latter, and fermenting the liquor in the ordinary way, is obtained a strong and excellent vinegar. The leaves of it are used instead of tea; and the pith is dried and mixed in many of their dishes; the morkovai[33] which is very like angelica; the kotkorica[34], the root of which they eat indifferently, green or dried; the ikoum[35]; the utchichlei[36], which is much eaten with fish; with many others.
It is said, that the Kamtschadales (before their acquaintance with fire-arms), poisoned their spears and arrows with the juice of the root of the zgate[37]; and that wounds inflicted by them are equally destructive to land and marine animals. The Tschutski are reported to use the same drug for this purpose at present.
I shall conclude this part of the natural history of Kamtschatka with an account, from the same author, of three plants, which furnish the materials of all their manufactures. The first is the triticum radice perenni spiculis binis lanuginosis[38], which grows in abundance along the coast. Of the straw of this grass they make a strong sort of matting, which they use not only for their floors, but for sacks, bed-clothes, curtains, and a variety of other domestic purposes. Of the same materials, they also make very neat little bags and baskets, of different forms, and for various uses.
The plant called bolotnaia, which grows in the marshes, and resembles cyperoides, is gathered in the autumn, and carded like wool, with a comb made of the bones of the sea-swallow; with this, in lieu of linen and woollen clothes, they swath their new-born infants, and use it for a covering next the skin whilst they are young. It is also made into a kind of wadding, and used for the purpose of giving additional warmth to various parts of their clothing.
There remains still a vulgar and well-known plant, which, as it contributes more effectually to their subsistence than all the rest put together, must not be passed over in silence. This is the nettle; which, as the country produces neither hemp nor flax, supplies the materials of which are made their fishing-nets; and without which they could not possibly subsist. For this purpose they cut it down in August, and, after hanging it up in bundles in the shade, under their balagans, the remainder of the summer, treat it like hemp. They then spin it into thread with their fingers, and twist it round a spindle; after which they twine several threads together, according to the different purposes for which it may be designed.
Though there is little doubt but that many parts of this peninsula would admit of such cultivation as might contribute considerably to the comfort of the inhabitants, yet its real riches must always consist in the number of wild animals it produces; and no labour can ever be turned to so good account as what is employed upon their furrieries. The animals, therefore, which supply these, come next to be considered: and these are, the common fox; the stoat or ermine; the zibeline or sable; the isatis or arctic fox; the varying hare; the mountain rat or earless marmot; the weasel; the glutton or wolverene; the argali or wild sheep; rein-deer, bears, wolves, dogs.
The fox[39] is the most general object of the chace; and they are found in great numbers, and of variety of colours. The most common is the same in species with the European, with this variation, that the colours are more bright and shining; some are of a dark chesnut, others are striped with dark-coloured bars; others have the belly black, and the rest of the body of a light chesnut. Some again are of a very dark brown, some black, others of a stone colour; and there are a few quite white; but these last are very scarce. Their fur is exceedingly thick and fine, and of a quality much superior to those either of Siberia or America. A variety of artifices are made use of by the hunters to catch this animal, which, in all climates, seems to preserve the same character of craftiness and cunning. Traps of different sorts, some calculated to fall upon them, others to catch them by the feet, others by the head, are amongst the most common; to which may be added, several ingenious contrivances for taking them in nets. Poisoned baits are likewise in use; and the nux vomica is the drug principally employed for this purpose. Before their knowledge of the Russians, by which they became acquainted with fire arms, they also carried bows and arrows to the chace. But since that period, almost every Kamtschadale is provided with a rifle-barrel gun; and, though far from being dexterous in the use of it, its superiority over the former instruments he is ready to acknowledge.
The sables[40] of Kamtschatka are said to be considerably larger than those of Siberia, and their fur much thicker and brighter, though not of so good a black as those in the neighbourhood of the Olekma and the Vitime[41], a circumstance which depreciates their value much more than their superiority in other respects enhances it. The sables of the Tigil and Ouka are counted the best in Kamtschatka; and a pair of these sometimes sell for thirty roubles (five pounds sterling). The worst are those of the southern extremity. The apparatus of the sable hunters consist of a rifle-barrel gun of an exceedingly small bore, a net, and a few bricks: with the first they shoot them when they see them on the trees; the net is to surround the hollow trees in which, when pursued, they take refuge; and the bricks are heated and put into the cavities, in order to smoke them out.
I must refer the reader for an account of the isatis[42] or arctic fox, to Mr. Pennant’s Arctic Zoology, as I never saw either the animal or the skin, which I understand they set no value upon. The varying hare[43] is also neglected on the same account. They are in great abundance; and, as is always the case with this species, turn quite white during the winter. Our shooting parties saw several of this colour the beginning of May, but found them so shy, that they were not able to get within gun-shot.
The mountain-rat or earless marmot[44], is a beautiful little animal, considerably smaller than a squirrel, and, like it, feeds upon roots, berries, the cedar apple, &c. which it eats sitting upon its hind-legs, and holding them up to its mouth with the paws. Its skin is much valued by the Kamtschadales, is both warm and light, and of a bright shining colour, forming like the plumage of some birds, various colours when viewed in different lights.
The stoat or ermine[45] is here held in no estimation, and, consequently never engages the attention of the hunters, because, as I have heard, its fur is of an ordinary kind. I saw many of these little animals running about; and we bought several of their skins, which were of a bad white, and of a dirty yellow toward the belly. The common weasel[46] is also neglected, and for the same reason.
On the contrary, the skin of the glutton or wolverene[47], is here in the highest repute; insomuch, that a Kamtschadale looks upon himself as most richly attired, when a small quantity of this fur is seen upon him. The women adorn their hair with its pats, which are white, and considered as an extraordinary piece of finery; and they have a superstitious opinion that the angels are clad with the skins of those animals. It is said, that this creature is easily tamed, and taught a number of pleasant tricks.[48]
Having already had occasion to speak as fully as my own knowledge enables me of the bears, and the method of killing them, I shall only here observe, that all those I saw were of a dun brown colour; that they are generally seen in companies of four or five together; that the time they are most abroad is during the season that the fish (which is their principal food) are pushing up from the sea into the rivers, and that they are seldom visible in the winter months.[49]
Their skins are exceedingly useful. They make both excellent warm mattrasses, and coverings for their beds; comfortable bonnets and gloves, and good collars for the dogs’ harness. Their flesh, and particularly the fat, is considered as great delicacies.
The wolves are only seen in the winter; at which season they prowl about, as I was told, in large companies, in search of prey.
There are rein-deer, both wild and tame, in several parts of the peninsula, but none in the neighbourhood of Awatska. It is somewhat singular, that this nation should never have used the rein-deer for the purposes of carriage, in the same manner as their neighbours, both to the north and the eastward. Their dogs, indeed, seem fully sufficient for all the demands of the natives in their present state; and the breed of Russian horses will, probably, increase with the future necessities of the country. But when it is recollected, that the use of dogs, in a great measure, precludes them from the advantage of bringing up any other domestic animals, it will appear the more extraordinary that they should not have adopted the services of an animal so much more gentle as well as powerful.
The argali, or wild mountain sheep[50], an animal, I believe, unknown in Europe (except in Corsica and Sardinia), is here in great plenty. Its skin is like the deer’s, but in gait and general appearance, it partakes more of the goat. It has two large twisted horns, sometimes weighing, when at full growth, from twenty-five to thirty pounds, which in running, it rests upon its back. These creatures are exceedingly nimble and swift, haunt only the most craggy and mountainous parts, and make their way among the steepest rocks with an agility that is astonishing. The natives work their horns into spoons and small cups and platters; and have frequently one of a smaller size hanging to a belt, which serves them to drink out of in their hunting expeditions. This animal is gregarious. I frequently tasted the flesh of them, and thought it had a very sweet and delicate flavour; but never had an opportunity of seeing one alive. I must, therefore, refer the reader for a particular description of this beautiful animal (for such it is said to be), to the Memoirs of the Academy of Petersburg, tom. iv. tab. xiii.
I have already observed, that the dogs of this country are, in shape and mien, exceedingly like the Pomeranian, with this difference, that they are a great deal larger, and the hair somewhat coarser. They are of a variety of colours; but the most general is a light dun, or dirty cream colour. Toward the end of May they are all turned loose, and left to provide for themselves through the summer, being sure to return to their respective homes when the snow begins to fall. Their food in the winter consists entirely of the head, entrails, and back bones of salmon, which are put aside, and dried for that purpose; and with this diet they are fed but sparingly. The number of dogs must needs be very great, since five are yoked to a sledge, and a sledge carries but one person; so that, on our journey to Bolcheretsk, we required no fewer than an hundred and thirty-nine, at the two stages of Karatchin and Natchikin. It is also to be remarked, that they never make use of bitches for the draft, nor dogs but those that are cut. The whelps are trained to this business, by being tied to stakes with light leathern thongs, which are made to stretch, and having their victuals placed at a proper distance out of their reach; so that, by constantly pulling and labouring, in order to come at their food, they acquire both the strength of limbs and the habit of drawing, that are necessary for their future destination.
The coast and bays of this country are frequented by almost every kind of northern sea-fowl; and amongst the rest are the sea-eagles, but not, as at Oonalashka, in great numbers. The rivers inland (if I may judge from what I saw in our journey to Bolcheretsk), are stored with numerous flocks of wild-ducks, of various species, one kind of which, in particular, has a most beautiful plumage, and is called by the natives a-an-gitche, a word intended to express its cry, which is not less singular than agreeable, consisting of three distinct notes, rising at equal intervals above each other.[51]
There is another species called the mountain-duck[52], which, Steller says, is peculiar to Kamtschatka. The drake is covered with plumage of extraordinary beauty. Besides these, we observed a variety of other water-fowl, which from their size seemed to be of the wild-goose kind.
In the woods through which we passed, were seen several eagles of a prodigious size, but of what species they were I cannot pretend to determine. These are said to be of three different sorts; the black eagle, with a white head, tail, and legs[53], of which the eaglets are as white as snow; the white eagle, so called, though in fact it is of a light grey; and the lead, or stone-coloured eagle[54], which is the most common; and probably those I saw were of this sort. Of the hawk, falcon, and bustard kind, there are great numbers.
This country likewise affords woodcocks, snipes, and two sorts of grouse, or moor-game. Swans are also said to be in great plenty; and in their entertainments generally to make a part of the repast, though I do not remember to have seen one on any occasion. The vast abundance of wild-fowl with which the country is stored, was manifest from the numerous presents we received from the Toion of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, and which sometimes consisted of twenty brace.
We met with no amphibious sea-animals on the coast, except seals, with which the bay of Awatska swarmed; as they were, at this time, in pursuit of the salmon that were collecting in shoals, and ready to ascend the rivers. Some of them are said to pursue the fish into the fresh water, and to be found in most of the lakes which communicate with the sea.
The sea-otters[55] are exactly the same with those we met with at Nootka Sound, which have been already fully described, and where they are in great plenty. They are also said to have been formerly in equal abundance here; but, since the Russians have opened a trade for their skins to China, where they are sold at a price much beyond that of any other kind of fur, they have been hunted almost entirely out of the country. Amongst the Kurile islands they are still caught, though in no great numbers; but are of a superior quality to those of Kamtschatka, or the American coast.
We are informed, that on Mednoi and Beering’s Island, scarce a sea-otter is now to be found; though it appears from Muller[56], that in his time they were exceedingly plentiful.
The Russian voyagers make mention of a great variety of amphibious sea-animals, which are said to frequent these coasts: the reason why we saw no other kinds might be, that this was the season of their migration.
Not having it in my power to treat these articles more fully, I conclude them with the less regret, since the ingenious Mr. Pennant has a work, almost ready for publication, entitled, Arctic Zoology; in which the learned will receive full information concerning the animals of this peninsula. This gentleman has very obligingly communicated to me his Catalogue of Arctic Animals, with references to his work, and permission to insert it. It will be found at the end of this chapter; and I feel myself extremely happy in laying it before the reader, and thereby presenting him with what could have been furnished from no other quarter, one entire view of Kamtschadale zoology.
Fish may be considered as the staple article of food with which Providence hath supplied the inhabitants of this peninsula, who in general must never expect to draw any considerable part of their sustenance either from grain or cattle. It is true, the soil, as has been remarked, affords some good and nourishing roots, and every part of the country abounds in berries; but though these alone would be insufficient for the support of the people, yet, at the same time, they are necessary correctives of the putrescent quality of their dried fish. In short, fish may, with much greater justice, be here called the staff of life, than bread is in other countries; since it appears, that neither the inhabitants, nor the only domestic animal they have, the dog, could exist without it.
Whales are frequently seen, both in the sea of Okotsk and on the side of the eastern ocean, and when caught are turned to a variety of uses. Of the skin they make the soles of their shoes, and straps and thongs for various other purposes. The flesh they eat, and the fat, is carefully stored, both for kitchen use and for their lamps. The whiskers are found to be the best materials for sewing together the seams of their canoes; they likewise make nets of them for the larger kind of fish; and, with the under jaw-bones, their sledges are shod. They likewise work the bones into knives; and formerly the chains with which their dogs are tied were made of that material, though at present iron ones are generally used. The intestines they clean, then blow and dry like bladders, and it is in these their oil and grease is stored; and of the nerves and veins, which are both strong and slip readily, they make excellent snares; so that there is no part of the whale which here does not find its use.
From the middle of May till our departure on the 24th of June, we caught great quantities of excellent flat-fish, trout, and herrings. Upward of three hundred of the former, besides a number of sea-trout, were dragged out at one haul of the seine, the 15th of May. These flat-fish are firm, and of a good flavour, studded upon the back with round prickly knobs, like turbot, and streaked with dark brown lines, running from the head toward the tail. About the end of May the first herring season begins. They approach in great shoals, but do not remain long on the coast. They had entirely left the bay before we sailed out of it the first time, but were beginning to revisit it again in October. It has been already mentioned, that the herrings were remarkably fine and large, and that we filled a great part of our empty casks with them. The beginning of June, large quantities of excellent cod were taken, a part of which were likewise salted. We caught too, at different times, numbers of small fish, much resembling a smelt, and once drew out a wolf-fish.
Notwithstanding this abundance of flat-fish, cod, and herring, it is on the salmon fishery alone that the Kamtschadales depend for their winter provisions. Of these, it is said by naturalists, there are to be found on this coast all the different species that are known to exist, and which the natives formerly characterized by the different months in which they ascend the rivers. They say, too, that though the shoals of different sorts are seen to mount the rivers at the same time, yet they never mix with each other; that they always return to the same river in which they were bred, but not till the third summer; that neither the male nor female live to regain the sea; that certain species frequent certain rivers, and are never found in others, though they empty themselves nearly at the same place.
The first shoals of salmon begin to enter the mouth of the Awatska about the middle of May; and this kind, which is called by the Kamtschadales Tchavitsi, is the largest and most valued. Their length is generally about three feet and a half: they are very deep in proportion, and their average weight is from thirty to forty pounds. The tail is not forked, but straight. The back is of a dark blue, spotted with black; in other respects they are much like our common salmon. They ascend the river with extraordinary velocity, insomuch that the water is sensibly agitated by their motion; and the Kamtschadales, who are always on the watch for them about the time they are expected, judge of their approach by this circumstance, and immediately let drop their nets before them. We were presented with one of the first that was caught, and given to understand that it was the greatest compliment that could be paid us. Krascheninicoff relates, that formerly the Kamtschadales made a point of eating the first fish they took, with great rejoicings, and a variety of superstitious ceremonies; and that after the Russians became their masters, it was for a long time a constant subject of quarrel between them, to whom the first should belong. The season for fishing, for this species, lasts from the middle of May till the end of June.
The other sort is of a smaller kind, weighing only from eight to sixteen pounds; they are known by the general name of the red fish, and begin to collect in the bays, and at the mouths of the rivers, the beginning of June; from which time, till the end of September, they are caught in great quantities both upon the eastern and western coast, where any fresh water falls into the sea, and likewise all along the course of the rivers, to their very source. The manner in which they draw their nets within the bay of Awatska, is as follows: they tie one end of the net to a large stone at the water’s edge, they then push off in a canoe about twenty yards in a right line, dropping their net as they advance, after which they turn and run out the remainder of the net in a line parallel to the shore; in this position they wait, concealing themselves very carefully in the boat, and keeping a sharp look-out for the fish, which always direct their course close in with the shore, and whose approach is announced by a rippling in the water, till they find that the shoal has advanced beyond the boat, when they shoot the canoe to shore in a direct line, and never fail of enclosing their prey. Seldom more than two men are employed to a net, who hawl with facility, in this manner, seines larger than ours, to which we appoint a dozen. We at first met with very poor success in our own method of hawling; but after the Kamtschadales had very kindly put us in the way, we were not less successful than themselves. In the rivers, they shoot one net across, and hawl another down the stream to it.
The lakes that have a communication with the sea, which was the case of all those that I saw, abound with fish, that have very much the resemblance of small salmon, and are from four to six pounds’ weight. I could not understand that the inhabitants thought it worth their while to fish for them. As these lakes are not deep, they become an easy prey to the bears and dogs during the summer; and if I might judge from the quantity of bones to be seen upon the banks, they devour vast numbers of them.
The inhabitants, for the most part, dry their salmon, and salt very little of it. Each fish is cut into three pieces, the belly-piece being first taken off, and afterward a slice along each side the back-bone. The former of these are dried and smoked, and esteemed the finest part of the fish, and sold, when we were at Saint Peter’s and Saint Paul’s, at the rate of one hundred for a rouble. The latter are dried in the air, and either eaten whole as bread, or reduced to powder, of which they make paste and cakes, that are not unpleasant to the taste. The head, tail, and bones, are hung up and dried for winter provision for the dogs.
There were no domestic animals in Kamtschatka, till they were introduced by the Russians. The dogs, which seem to be of wolfish descent, are aboriginal.
Birds.
| I. | Sea eagle. | Vol. II. p. 194 | Falco ossifragus | 124 |
| ** | Cinereous eagle | 214 | Vultur albiulla | 123 |
| ** | White-headed eagle | 196 | Falco leucocephalus | ib. |
| Crying eagle | 215 | | |
| Osprey | 199 | Falco haliÆtus | 129 |
| Peregrine falcon | 202 | | [58]73 |
| Goshawk | 204 | Falco palumbarius | 130 |
| II. | Eagle owl | 228 | Strix bubo | 131 |
| Snowy owl | 233 | Strix nyctea | 132 |
| III. | Raven | 246 | Corvus corax | 155 |
| Magpie | 147 | Corvus pica | 157 |
| Nutcracker | 252 | Corvus caryocatactes | ib. |
| IV. | Cuckoo | 266 | Cuculus canorus | 168 |
| V. | Wryneck | 267 | Jynx Torquilla | 172 |
| VI. | Nuthatch | 281 | Sitta Europea | 177 |
| VII. | White grous | 308 | Tetrao lagopus | 274 |
| Wood grous | 312 | Tetrao urogallus | 273 |
| VIII. | Water ouzel | 332 | Sturnus cinclus. | |
| IX. | Fieldfare | 340 | Turdus pilaris | 291 |
| Redwing thrush | 341 | Turdus iliacus | 292 |
| Kamtschatkan | 343 | (Latham, iii. 28.) | |
| X. | Greenfinch | 353 | Loxia chloris | 304 |
| XI. | Golden bunting | 367 | (Latham, ii. 201.) | |
| XII. | Lesser red-headed linnet | 379 | (Latham, ii. 305.) | |
| XIII. | Dun fly-catcher | 390 | (Latham, ii. 351.) | |
| XIV. | Sky-lark | 394 | A. Alauda arvensis | 287 |
| Wood lark | 395 | B. Alauda arborea | ib. |
| XV. | White wagtail | 396 | E. Motacilla alba | 331 |
| Yellow wagtail | ib. | F. Motacilla flava | ib. |
| Tschutski wagtail | 397 | H. | |
| XVI. | Yellow wren | 413 | Motacilla trochilus | 338 |
| Redstart | 416 | Motacilla phoenicurus | 335 |
| Longbilled | 420 | | |
| Stapazina | 421 | Motacilla stapazina | 331 |
| Awatska | 422 | | |
| XVII. | Marsh titmouse | 427 | Parus palustris | 341 |
| XVIII. | Chimney swallow | 429 | Hirundo rustica | 343 |
| Martin | 430 | Hirundo urbica | 344 |
| Sand martin | ib. | Hirundo riparia | ib. |
| XIX. | European goatsucker | 437 | Caprimulgus Europeus | 346 |
Water Fowl.
CLOVEN-FOOTED WATER FOWL.
| Great tern | No. 448 | Sterna hirundo. | |
| Kamtschatkan | P. 525 A. | | |
| Black-headed gull | No. 455 | Larus ridibundus | 225 |
| Kittiwake gull | No. 456 | Larus rissa | 224 |
| Ivory gull | No. 457 | | |
| Arctic gull | No. 459 | | |
| Tarrock | P. 533 D. | Larus tridactylus | 224 |
| Red-legged | No. ib. E. | | |
| Fulmar petrel | No. 464 | Procellaria glacialis | 213 |
| Stormy petrel | No. ib. | Procellaria pelagica | 212 |
| Kurile petrel | P. 536 A. | | |
| Blue petrel.[59] | Preface. | | |
| Goosander merganser | No. 465 | Mergus merganser | 208 |
| Smew | No. 468 | Mergus albellus | 209 |
| Whistling swan | No. 469 | Anas Cygnus ferus | 194 A. |
| Great goose | P. 570 | | |
| Chinese goose | P. 571 | Anas cygnoides | ib. B. |
| Snow goose | No. 477 | | |
| Brent goose | No. 478 | Anas bernicla | 198 |
| Eider duck | No. 480 | Anas mollissima | ib. |
| Black duck | No. 483 | Anas spectabilis | 195 |
| Velvet duck | No. 481 | Anas fusca | 196 |
| Shoveler | No. 485 | Anas clypeata | 200 |
| Golden eye | No. 486 | Anas clangula | 201 |
| Harlequin | No. 490 | Anas histrionica | 204 |
| Mallard | No. 494 | Anas boschas | 205 |
| ** | Western | No. 497 | | |
| Pintail | No. 500 | Anas acuta | 202 |
| ** | Longtailed | No. 501 | Anas glacialis | 203 |
| Mouillon | P. 573 F. | Anas glaucion | 201 |
| Shieldrake | P. 572 D. | Anas tadorna | 195 |
| Tufted | P. 573 G. | Anas fuligula | 207 |
| Falcated | P. 574 I. | | |
| Gargany | P. 576 O. | Anas querquedula | 263 |
| Teal | P. 577 P. | Anas crecia | 204 |
| Corvorant | No. 509 | Pelecanus carvo | 216 |
| Violet corvorant | P. 584 B. | | |
| Red-faced corvorant | ib. C. | | |
| Crane | P. 453 A. | Ardea grus | 334 |
| Curlew | P. 462 A. | Scolopax arquata | 242 |
| Whimbrel | P. 462 B. | Scolopax phoeopus | 243 |
| Common sandpiper | No. 388 | Tringa hypoleucos | 250 |
| Gambet | No. 394 | Tringa gambetta | 248 |
| Golden plover | No. 399 | Charadrius pluvialis | 254 |
| Pied oyster-catcher | No. | HÆmatopus ostralegus | 257 |
| Wandering albatross | No. 423 | Diomedea exulans | 214 |
| Razor-bill auk. | No. 425 | Alca torda | 210 |
| Puffin | No. 427 | Alca arctica | 211 |
| Antient | No. 430 | | |
| Pygmy | No. 431 | | |
| Tufted | No. 432 | | |
| Parroquet | No. 433 | | |
| Crested | No. 434 | | |
| Dusky | No. 435 | | |
| Foolish guillemot | No. 436 | Colymbus troille | 220 |
| Black guillemot | No. 437 | Colymbus grylle | ib. |
| Marbled guillemot | No. 438 | | |
| Imber diver | No. 440 | Colymbus immer | 222 |
| Speckled diver | No. 441 | | |
| Red-throated diver | No. 443 | Colymbus septentrionalis | 220 |
