The following instructions on the care and management of steam and hot-water heating plants is printed with permission of the American Radiator Co. They were prepared as a guide to the successful operation of the Ideal heating plants but apply with equal force to other plants of a similar character.

General Advice.

—No set rules can be given for caring for every boiler alike—chimney flues are not alike—some have strong draft, some are average and some are weak. There is much more difference in the heat-making qualities of coal than is commonly known, and it is important that the right size coal for the draft be used. These rules apply to most all fuels. A little trying of this way or that way of leaving the dampers (when regulators are not used) often discovers the better way. It is well to vary from the rules a little if any of them do not seem to bring about the best results.

With good, average chimney flue draft and the right kind of fuel, these rules will govern the large majority of cases.

The Economy of Good Draft.

—In many cases a boiler with sluggish draft will burn more coal than a boiler with good draft. In the first case the fuel may be said to “rot”—in lacking air supply the gases pass off unburned. The “nagging” which a boiler has to take under these conditions increases the waste of fuel. A boiler under sharp, strong draft maintains a clear intense fire and burns the gases—getting the larger amount of heat from the coal.

1. Put but little coal on a low fire.

2. When adding coal to the boiler, open the smoke-pipe damper (inside the smoke pipe) and close the cold-air check damper. This will make a draft through the feed doorway inward and prevent the escape of dust or gas into the cellar when the feed door is open to take fuel. Put these parts back to their regular places after feeding.

3. When it can be done, in feeding a large amount of coal (as for night) leave a part of the fire or flame exposed, so that the gases may be burned as they arise.

4. When a regulator is not used, learn to use the dampers correctly and according to the force of the chimney draft. Learn to use cold-air check damper. Often, when closing, the ash-pit draft damper does not check the fire enough; opening the cold-air check damper will check it about right. Increasing or lessening the pressure of a steam boiler must be done by changing the weight on the regulator bar.

5. Carry a deep fire or a high fire; let the live coals come up to the feed door—even in mild weather when from 4 to 6 inches of ashes stand on the grate.

6. In severe weather give the heater the most careful attention the last thing at night.

7. Do not overshake or poke the fire in mild weather; once in a while shake enough to give place for a little more fuel.

8. Do not let ashes bank up under the grate in ash-pit. Grate bars are very hardy, but it is possible to warp them with carelessness. Taking up the ashes once a day is the best rule, even if but little has fallen into the pit.

9. Keep the boiler surfaces and flues clean; a crust of soot ¼ inch in thickness causes the boiler to require half as much more fuel than when the surfaces are clean.

10. If convenient, have a water hose to spray the ashes when cleaning out the pit.

11. Attend the boiler from two to four times per day. In mild weather, running with a checked fire, morning and night is usually often enough. In severe weather, once in early morning, again at mid-day, again at five or six o’clock and finally thorough attention at from nine to eleven o’clock in the evening.

12. If, through burning poor coal, the fire pot gets full of ashes, or slate and clinkers massed together, the quickest way to get a good active fire is to dump the grate and then build a new fire—from the kindling up.

13. If a hard clinker lodges between the grate bars, do not force the shaking, but first dislodge the mass with a poker or slicing bar. Then the grate will operate without damage.

Weather and Time of Day.

—In severe weather keep the fire pot full of coal, and run the heater by the dampers or regulator (if one is used). Thoroughly clean the grate twice a day. Let the top of the fire in front be level with the feed door sill. Bank up the coal higher to the rear.

In moderate weather there should be from 2 to 6 inches of ashes between the live coal and the grate. As the weather grows colder keep the grate and the fire pot a little cleaner—sometimes it helps to run the poker or slicing bar over it through the clinker door. With some fuels this is never necessary.

Night Firing.

—In very cold weather, when the house should be kept warm all night, clean the grate well at a late hour—the last thing. Clear the bottom of the fire pot of all ashes and clinkers so that the grate is covered with clear-burning, red-hot coals, then fill the pot full of fuel. If possible, leave some of the flame exposed to burn the gases. Leave the drafts on long enough to burn off some of the gas, then check the heater for the night. Thus there is plenty of coal to burn during the night and some on which to commence early in the morning. Some drafts do not make it necessary to leave the dampers on to burn off the gas after feeding.

With the ash-pit draft damper closed and the cold-air check damper open at night, but part of the coal is burned and there is much of it not burned in the morning. So, by reversing the dampers in the early morning the fire starts up quickly and often the house may be well warmed before any coal is put into the fire pot.

Some boilers are run the other way—a very poor way. If the grate is cleared off in very cold weather and coal added at five or six o’clock in the afternoon, by eleven o’clock at night nearly one-half of the coal is burned and the grate is covered over with a mass of ashes and clinkers. With little coal remaining, to shake the grate will quite likely put out the remaining fire; to put fresh coal on a low fire reduces further its declining temperature. The result is a cold house that will grow colder until a new fire is started.

Often in cold weather with this poor way of night firing, it takes one or more hours of forced firing to warm the house in the morning, and all the coal saved the night before is more than used to get the house or building “heated up”—while the people who should be comfortable have to get up, bathe and take breakfast in chilly rooms. At no time in the day is heat more wanted than about the time of getting up and starting the day. A fire well cared for late in the evening makes a warm house all night. And so it follows that it is much easier to add a little more heat in the morning. And surely less coal is burned, for the forcing of a fire part of the time often overheats, and wastes coal.

First-day Firing.

—In the morning of moderate winter weather, with the ash-pit draft damper open, before adding any coal allow the fire to brighten up if it seems to be low; then (for such conditions) spread over a thin layer of fresh coal and set the drafts for a brisk fire. After the new fire is well started add as much coal as may be necessary to last until next firing. Do not shake much if any—just enough to give space for more coal. Then by setting the regulator (if one is used), or, by closing the ash-pit draft damper and opening the cold-air check damper a little, the boiler should keep up its work until the next firing time.

In severe weather, if the boiler has been attended to at night as directed in the section on “night firing,” the drafts can be turned on and the boiler run for half an hour before adding coal. Or, if more convenient to give it immediate attention, the grate can be thoroughly shaken and enough coal added to last until mid-day. Often the cold-air check damper will need to be entirely closed and the ash-pit draft damper partly open if the heater is a water boiler. If a steam boiler, the regulator should then be set to maintain the number of pounds of pressure wanted and so left.

Other-day Firing.

—In severe weather more coal should be added about noon, sometimes the draft may be left on for a few minutes and then checked. And in such weather it is often well to give the boiler further attention at five or six o’clock. In severest weather the boiler should not be attended more than four times a day; and generally not less than three times.

Often much coal is wasted by “nagging” the fire—poking, shaking and feeding it until it becomes “dyspeptic.” A sure cure is a little common sense in regular feeding, etc.

Economy and Fuels.

—In running many boilers for moderate weather better results follow if the grate is not shaken too much or too often. Sometimes in moderate weather a body of ashes on the grate checks the fire and there is enough heat without a useless burning of fuel. Many houses are overheated in moderate weather and too much coal burned by running the boiler as for zero weather.

So we repeat—it is not wise to overshake or overfeed a boiler in moderate weather. The fire should be in such shape that if a change comes at night there is a basis for a good fire to start on. When the grate is shaken but once during the 24 hours (during moderate weather) late at night is the best time.

When one stops to think that heating is needed during about 7 months out of the year, and that a greater portion of this time is usually moderate weather when a very little heat is needed, it must be seen that the science of running the heater to save coal is to apply common sense rules of limiting the feeding and the attention in such periods. In severe weather we believe in giving the boiler a liberal quantity of fuel regularly and at the right time. The time to save coal is when there is no need for burning it. This is where a great many people make errors in running the boiler—in forgetting to “let up” on the shaking and feeding in moderate weather.

With some drafts and for boilers using hard coal or coke, good economical results often are secured by opening the feed door a little when it is desired to check the fire in moderate weather. This depends on the draft.

For Burning Soft Coal.

—Some types of boilers are made to burn soft coal with economy, with least work. Some types are made specially to burn the meaner grades of soft coal. Firing to prevent smoke is a source of economy and these ways of running should be followed—specially with large sectional boilers.

There are two types of soft coal, viz.: The free-burning coal, which breaks apart when burning, allowing the gases to freely escape; and the fusing-coking coal, which, when burning, first fuses into a solid burning mass with a hard crust over the top, slowly coking as it burns. The latter kind is most valuable for house-heating boilers because the gases are more thoroughly consumed. The fusing-coking coal is worth about 20 per cent. more for this purpose than the free-burning coal.

The gases should be allowed to pass off from the coal slowly. Leave air inlet on the feed door open if draft permits. If possible, use uniform sizes of coal. Avoid using coal having too much dust—the “run-of-the-mine” may be lower in price but its heat-making value is also low.

For the purpose of slow burning of soft coal, it is well in feeding at night to let the fire burn up freely so that the coals are very live with heat. Then fill in enough coal to last all night—leaving some of the live coals uncovered if possible. With large sectional boilers this exposure should be at the rear of the fire so that the flame will pass over the live coals. Thus the gases coming off from the fresh coal are burned and a larger amount of the full heat-producing value of soft coal is made use of and with less smoke.

After a boiler is so fed, the dampers (unless an automatic regulator is used) should be left about as follows:

Ash-pit draft damper open a little or closed, as draft may require.

Cold-air check damper open about one-eighth to one-third distance of the opening.

Smoke-pipe damper about one-half closed.

A little experiment with the draft will usually tell the operator the best way of leaving these dampers.

It will be found in the morning that the entire charge of coal is well burned or partly coked.

The coked fuel, or that which sticks together in a mass, should be broken up by the poker and more added generally as by rules given in other sections.

It must always be remembered that the soft coals mined in different parts of the country have widely varying heat-making capacities. To obtain satisfactory results brands must be selected which have an established reputation for excelling results in small boilers.

For Burning Coke.

—It is best to keep the pot full of fuel—keeping a large body of coke under a low fire rather than a little fuel under a strong fire.

It must be remembered that coke makes a very “hot fire” because the coke is free-burning. Care should be taken not to leave drafts on too long in boilers not having regulators.

Coke burns best for house-heating purposes with less draft than is required for coal, therefore to keep a low fire the ash-pit draft damper should be kept closed, and the smoke-pipe damper almost entirely closed. The regulator (when used) can be set to keep the dampers about as here advised. Coke is practically smokeless and its quick-burning character makes a cut-off damper in the smoke pipe (which will stay fixed as it may be set) quite necessary.

It is well to keep a layer of ashes on the grates and when shaking stop before red-hot coals come through the grate. The coke then burns more slowly, which increases its effectiveness.

With some drafts it may be well to “bank the fire” at night with coke—pea coal size. This is a matter of experiment, and depends on the character of the chimney draft.

Fire should be tended regularly—two times a day, or four at the outside.

With an extra strong draft, at night the fuel should be packed down by tamping with the back of a shovel.

With ordinary condition of draft, crushed coke, small egg size, should be used.

Other Rules for Water Boilers

—To Fill System.—Open the feed-cock when the heater is connected with a city or town water supply; if not, fill by funnel at the expansion tank. Fill until the gage-glass on the expansion tank shows about half full of water. In filling the system see that all air cocks on the radiators are closed. Then beginning with the lower floor, open the air cocks on each radiator, one at a time, until each radiator is filled; then close the air cock and take the next radiators on upper floors until all are filled, after which let the water run until it shows in the gage-glass of the water tank. After the water is heated and in circulation, vent the radiators by opening the air valves as before. Then again allow the water to run into the system until it rises to the proper level in the expansion tank gage-glass.

Always keep the apparatus full of water unless the building be vacated during the winter months, when the water should be drawn off to prevent freezing. Never draw water off with fire in the heater.

To draw off water, open the draw-off cock at the lowest point in the system, and then open air cocks on all radiators as fast as the water lowers beginning with the highest radiator.

Air-vent Valves on Radiators.

—In order to secure the full benefit of the heating surface of a hot-water radiator, the inside of the section must be free of air. When a radiator is “air-bound” it means that parts of the sections are filled with air in pockets which remain until the air is allowed to pass off through the vent valve.

Air will gather from time to time at the highest points inside the radiators, especially in those placed in the upper stories of the building. These air accumulations inside cut down the working power of a radiator exactly in proportion as they rob the inside of the casting of proper contact with heated water. Air pockets not only reduce effective heating surface, but they also prevent the circulation of hot water.

Therefore, it is well once in a while to take the little key provided by the heating contractor and open the air valves on radiators to allow the air (if any) to escape. When a radiator does not work as well as usual, open the air valves until the water flows, which indicates that the air has been fully released. Then close the valve.

Valves on Cellar Mains.

—If cut-off valves have been placed on the main and return pipes in the cellar, see that the valves on one line of main and return pipes (at least) are open when the boiler is under operation. Be sure that the system is open to circulate water through the supply and return pipes before building a fire in the boiler.

It is a very good idea to take down the smoke pipe in the spring, thoroughly clean and put it back in place. Leave all doors open on the boiler in the summer time.

Other Rules for Steam Boilers

—To Fill Boiler.—Open the feed-cock when the heater is connected with city or town water supply; if not, fill through the funnel. Let the water run until the gage-glass shows about half full of water.

In the first filling, after the water has boiled, get up a pressure of at least 10 pounds, draw the fire and blow off the boiler under pressure through draw-off cock to remove oil and sediment, after which refill with fresh water to the water line. This is best done usually by the steam-fitter.

The damper regulator will control the pressure of steam, closing the damper when the pressure is raised beyond the desired point and opening the damper when the pressure falls below that point. By removing the weight on the lever, different degrees of pressure can be kept up. The regulator should be allowed to control the drafts without interference.

Examine the water glass often to see that the water line is at the proper height. If lower than normal open the supply pipe until the water runs in and stands at the proper level. It is best when no water stands in the glass, nor shows at the bottom of the try-cock, to quickly dump the grate and do not put water into the boiler again until it is cooled off.

If there is one or more shut-off valves on the main or return pipes, before starting a fire see that one line of piping at least (main and return) is open to circulate the steam.

To Control Radiators.

—When it is desired to shut off steam from any radiator (if the regular radiator valves are used), close the valve tight, and when it is turned on see that the valve is wide open. A valve partly turned off will cause the radiator to fill with water. This rule applies only to one-pipe heating systems.

If “automatic” air valves are used they must be carefully adjusted by the steam-fitter and then left to operate without undue interference.

End of the Season.

—At the close of the heating season fill the steam boiler with water to the safety valve and let it thus stand through the summer.

Also thoroughly clean all the fire and flue surfaces of the boiler and at the opening of the next season withdraw the water and refill with fresh water to the water line, starting the boiler as before.

It is advisable to have a competent steam-fitter blow off the boiler under pressure and thus give the inside a thorough cleaning when the boiler is first set up and ready for fire.

A low-pressure boiler, using good water, rarely needs blowing off after it is once cleaned at time of setting up.

THE RIGHT CHIMNEY FLUE

The area of the flue should never be less than 8 inches in diameter if round, or 8 by 8 inches if square—unless for a very small heating boiler or tank heater. Nine or 10 inches round, or 8 by 12 rectangular is a good average size. The flue should generally have a little more area than that of the connecting smoke pipes.

Draft force depends very much on the height of the flue.

The chimney top should run above the highest part of the roof and should be so located with reference to any higher buildings nearby that the prevailing wind currents will not form eddies which will force the air downward in the shaft. Often a shifting cowl which will always turn the outlet away from the source of adverse currents will promote better draft.

The flue should run as nearly straight up from the base to the top outlet as possible. It should have no other openings into it but the boiler smoke pipe. Sharp bends and offsets in the flue will often reduce the area and choke the draft. The flue must be free of any feature which prevents a free area for the passage of smoke. The outlet must not be capped with any device which makes the area of the outlet less than the area of the flue.

The best form of flue is a round tile—in such there is less friction than in the square form and the spiral ascent of the draft moves in the easiest and most natural manner.

If the flue is made of brick only, the stack should be at least two 4-inch courses in thickness.

If there is a soot pocket in the flue below the smoke-pipe opening, the clean-out door should always be closed. If this soot pocket has other openings in it—from fireplaces or other connections—such arrangements are very liable to check the draft and prevent best action in the boiler.

The smoke pipe should not extend into the flue beyond the inside surface of the flue, otherwise the end of the pipe cuts down the area of the flue and injures its drawing capacity.

The inside of a flue should be smooth (pointed or plastered). When the courses are laid with the mortar bulging out from the joints the friction within the flue is very much increased. Often a troublesome flue is corrected by lowering some sharp-edged weight by a rope which should be worked against the sides of the flue until the clogging is scraped off.

A new chimney when “green” will not have a good drawing capacity. Short use dries out the mortar and better results follow.

“Smokey” Chimneys.

—The failure of draft in flues may be due to a variety of causes, one of which is illustrated in Fig. 57b. The short chimney on the left side of the roof shows the course of the wind as it passes over the ridge of the roof and why the draft in such a chimney is retarded whenever this condition exists. The force of the wind, as it comes into contact with the roof, causes a compression of the air on the windward side and a rarification on the lee side. This inequality of pressure causes a downward sweep of the wind as indicated by the arrows. The effect on the low chimney is to retard the draft and sometimes the pressure is great enough to reverse the action of the flue and force the smoke into the house. The only remedy for such a condition is an extension of the chimney that will raise its top above the ridge.

The same effect is often produced by a neighboring building or a border of trees that are higher than the chimney and dense enough to effect the wind pressure.