The stoves and lamps burning paraffin in the form of vapour have become very popular on account of their good heating properties, portability, and little attention required. They consist of a container holding paraffin, a burner with a heating tube attached is screwed to the container, and a tube leading almost to the bottom. A small air-tube, similar to a cycle-pump, is fixed in container, the handle and cap only being in sight. When the burner tubes are heated, a thumbscrew on the filler caps is closed, and a few strokes of the pump puts a slight pressure on the oil in the container. The oil is forced up the central tube to the burner; but before reaching this it has to flow round the heating coils, and in so doing is turned to vapour. The outlet at the nipple being very small, causes the vapour to issue with some force, and it mixes with the air, forming a mixture which burns with a non-luminous flame similar to that of a bunsen burner. This flame plays on the heating coils, and once started, the lamp is practically automatic; a stroke or two from the pump will keep it going until the oil is consumed. There are patterns that use petrol or benzol, their action being slightly different. Petrol and benzol are light spirits, which give off inflammable vapour at a To start either paraffin or petrol lamps, the exit tube or nozzle is heated. The petrol lamp has no coils round the nozzle; but comes straight from the holder to the exit nipple. The size of flame is regulated by a needle valve fitted with a wood or fibre handle. The petrol lamp has no pump, except on high-power brazing lamps whose use requires expert handling. The chief trouble with lamps using paraffin is that the burner becomes choked; this is shown by the lamp jumping out or the flame not attaining sufficient heat. The makers supply a proper cleaning needle, a sheet stamped to form a handle and a piece of fine steel wire fixed at one end. Nothing else, such as pins, etc., should be used, or the hole in the nipple becomes enlarged, and emitting too much gas, causes a smoky flame. The cleaner should be used each time before lighting. A good way to avoid this trouble is to use a small funnel with fine brass gauze soldered in the body when filling. White Rose is a quite satisfactory oil for these lamps. After considerable use the heating coil becomes choked with carbon deposit. A new heater tube can If a larger flame is not obtained by pumping, take the cap off the pump and draw out the plunger; the leather is probably worn. Fit a new one; or it may have become hard, in which case apply a little oil and open out carefully. The retaining valve is in the centre of the pump bottom, and is removed by using a long key down the pump barrel. The valve is in four pieces. See that the spring is free and that the cork is in good condition. When replacing, take care not to get it cross thread, and screw firmly home. The washer under the filler cap is of rubber and cuts through in time. Do not use pliers to screw down; it will go gas-tight with the fingers if the washer is good. To remove the nipple from which the gas issues is almost impossible without a proper key. This has a universal joint, which allows it to be rotated, although the handle is almost at right angles with the burner. Keys and all other parts mentioned can be obtained from any dealer in these lamps. With the lamps using petrol, the only parts requiring attention are the plate from which gas issues and the wick. Unlike the paraffin nipple, this is a circular stamping of brass approximately 3/4 in. in diameter with a fine hole in the centre. To remove The wick inside the lamp filters the spirit before reaching the nipple and occasionally needs replacing. Remove the cap from the bottom of the lamp, and with a piece of thick wire flattened at one end and filed to a hook, push it up the tube and withdraw the old wick. The new one is simply put in its place and the cap screwed tight. The washer under the filled cap is of cork and rarely gives any trouble. |