CHAPTER XV. Strong's Island.--King.--Canker.--Dress.--Chiefs.--Description of the Island.--Large Island.--Small Island.--Productions.--Wild Game.--Canals.--Stone Walls.--Who built them?--Ruins.--Suppositions.--A Rebellion.--Customs.--Queen.--Princes and Princesses.--Sekane.--CAEsar.--Natives.--Females.--"Strong's Island Trowsers."--Employments.--Houses.--Marriages.--Sports.--Canoes.--Carva.--Banyan-tree.--Religion.--"Blueskin."--Traditions.--Priests.--Rites and Ceremonies.--Funeral Ceremonies.--Rotumah Tom.--Food of the Natives.--Blueskin and his Procession.--Friday's Opinion.--The Feast.--"Very good," but think we won't indulge.--Choose our "Hotel."--An unpleasant Surprise.--"Planter."--Mutiny and its Consequences.--Desertion.--One kind of Navigation.--A Stroll to Large Island.--Friday and the Taboo.--Incidents in Port.--Weighed Anchor.--"Mary Frazier."--Death and Burial of Mr. S.--A few random Thoughts.
For nine long and weary months had the “Emily” been from port. During this time but few of the ship’s company had put foot upon land, and glad indeed were we when Strong’s Island hove in sight. We were experiencing heavy weather, but on Thursday, December 12th, the wind gradually grew less boisterous, and as we neared the land, steering for the passage, died away, leaving us at its mouth in a dead calm; but we down boats, and every man “pulled with a will,” and soon towed the old ship in, and at 7 P.M. we once more dropped anchor, weary with labor, but refreshed at the sight of the land, and the prospect of “stretching our legs” on shore once more. His majesty King Tocasaw, alias King George, accompanied by his eldest son, the Canker, heir-apparent to the throne, and some of the most distinguished chiefs, came off to visit us and welcome us to their island. The next morning, on looking about us, we found ourselves in a most beautiful harbor, completely shut in from the sea, lying about fifty yards from the shore. The beach is entirely covered with cocoanut-trees, and the mountains, rising with a gradual slope, expose to view the brilliant foliage of the bread-fruit and mangrove trees. This island is entirely surrounded by a reef, varying from a few rods to half a mile from the shore. Through the reef Nature has left an opening of about fifty fathoms, or one hundred yards, which admits of the passage of ships of the largest size. The main island is some thirty miles in circumference, and on the north side the shore forms a deep lagoon. Immediately in front of this lagoon is the “small island,” which extends from one extreme point of the bay to the other, being separated on the westerly side from the large island by a few hundred feet of shallow water, of not sufficient depth to admit the passage of a craft of any size, and this is bordered by the reef. On the easterly side of the small island is the passage. The highest peak of the large island is about two thousand feet above the level of the sea. The king and most of the high chiefs reside on the small island, with many of their tribes, forming quite a settlement. We called at the palace to pay our respects to his majesty. After partaking heartily of the fruit the king had set before us, we left, promising to call and see him often during our stay, as he gave us a cordial invitation to do so. We then proceeded to call upon some of the chiefs. On rambling over the small island we found numerous canals cut through in all directions, which at low tide would be nothing but small streams, but at high tide of sufficient depth to float the largest canoes. These canals, as well as some of the roads, are walled up from fifteen to thirty feet high. They are well built, and range from six to nine feet in thickness. We noticed many large stones, which would weigh several tons, placed in the wall some distance from the ground. There is something very mysterious about these walls and canals. As the natives know nothing about them, they say the Evil Spirit built them; and one of the most intelligent chiefs on the island informed us that the oldest records or traditions they have give no account of them whatever. We also came in contact with what appeared to be the ruins of a large building. It was surrounded by a About twenty-five or thirty years ago the island was governed by a king, who, from the accounts given by the chiefs, must have been a perfect tyrant; and during his reign two or three ships were taken and plundered, and all hands massacred. This tyranny had the effect of creating a rebellion, which was headed by Tocasaw, the present king. After a severe struggle the rebels came off victorious, and Tocasaw was crowned “King George.” He is very mild in his rule, and appears to seek the welfare of his subjects, who love him much. They are under complete subjection, however, and whenever in the presence of the king or chiefs, whether in the roads or houses, they immediately stoop low, and remain in this posture until he passes or bids them go about their business. The chiefs pay the same homage to the king as the natives. Even his own children The queen is a small, shriveled-up old lady, and looks as though a good strong norwester would blow her away. She is a very greedy creature, and just as vicious withal, and is thoroughly detested by those who are so situated that they can speak their mind freely, without fear or favor. They have six children; the eldest son, Canker, as we have already remarked, is next in rank to the king. He is about twenty-six years of age, and is reported to be a perfect villain, yet is very kind to the natives under him. He is a shrewd fellow to trade, and is always begging from the sailors. The second son, Aleck, is a young man about nineteen, and is a remarkably intelligent native. He is universally beloved by all, both chiefs and natives. He speaks better English than any native on the island, and appears to have a strong desire to know “all ’bout ’Merick.” Although so young, he is the father of three fine children, two noble boys and a girl; and his wife is a very kind, good-natured creature. He resides on the north side of the island, and has a beautiful place. The other children of the king are young, two daughters and two sons. Even these children command the same respect from the common natives as the chiefs, yet they play with them in common. The first, or war-chief; is Sekane, who is the king’s half-brother. He also is a very intelligent native, very active, and is considered the king’s prime minister and counselor. Next comes CÆsar, who is also half-brother to the king—a large, noble-looking native. He is the grand executioner, and when any poor native has violated a law, the punishment of which is death, he officiates. There are two or three other high chiefs, possessed of no remarkable traits. The natives are rather diminutive in stature, but active The men are employed cutting wood for their respective chiefs, building houses, making canoes, gathering fruit, etc. Their food consists principally of fish, bread-fruit, fayees, cocoanuts, and other fruit. The fish are generally eaten raw, and smell rather high before they use them. Their houses are built of bamboo, thatched with cocoanut leaves. The king’s house is very large, being fifty or sixty feet high, and about forty feet square. Some of the chiefs have also very large, roomy houses. The common ones for the natives are from thirty to forty feet high, and about twenty feet square. They are kept very neat. In the centre of the house is a square stone fireplace. The king and chiefs have large cook-houses, where all the cooking of the different tribes is done, and each family is served once a day. Each chief has from fifty to two hundred natives under him, including men, women, and children. No one of the natives is allowed more than one wife, and when the marriage ceremony is performed (which is done by the king for the chiefs, and by the chiefs for the common natives), the girl is “given away” by the one who officiates, and is then tabooed. The penalty of breaking this taboo is death; therefore there is not Each chief is allowed a certain portion of land, which is cultivated by the natives under him. The produce is taken to the king, who retains a portion for himself and ships, if any are in the harbor, and the remaining portion is distributed to the chiefs for their tribes. Their sports consist of songs, dances, and feasts. They do not appear to be a very warlike people, as they have no weapons of any account, and but four or five war-canoes. These are about sixty feet long and three wide. They are supplied with large outriggers to prevent their capsizing, and will carry from sixty to seventy natives. They are built very true and sharp, the bow and stern considerably elevated, and are fancifully decorated with shells and other ornaments. The smaller canoes are generally bread-fruit-tree logs shaped properly, and burned and dug out. They build them of all sizes, from those that will carry but a single person to larger ones that will carry twenty. It is indeed surprising to see with what dexterity they manage them. On this island is a root, which grows wild, called “carva.” They pound this root, extract the juice by There is a tree here which is a great curiosity, being a species of the banyan-tree of India. Its branches, bending to the ground and taking root, make beautiful shady groves, and pleasant retreats from the sultriness of the scorching sun. In the matter of religion the natives have a singular belief. Their deity, whom they call “Blueskin,” was thus described to us by Aleck: “All the same white gal, only he got wing all the same pigeon,” which is as near a description of an angel as we could have given him. They say, “If man be good, he go there,” pointing to the sky; “s’pose he no good, he stop here,” pointing to the earth. It is certainly very singular where or from whence they received these ideas; nevertheless, they sincerely believe them. They have no regular places of worship, neither have they any prescribed form. Some years since a famine visited the island, and swept off many of the inhabitants. According to their traditions, a great quantity of eels, which had never before been seen by them, suddenly made their appearance, and prevented them from entirely perishing with hunger. They have now great veneration for these eels, and they are tabooed, as they believe Blueskin sent them; and, although the waters abound with them, they will neither harm them nor suffer them to be harmed, if in their power to prevent it. They also believe in evil spirits. Once per year, or On the death of any person, all the friends and relatives meet at the house of the deceased, where they join in singing, wailing, screeching, and weeping for about twenty-four hours, after which the body is buried with much solemnity, with the head to the west. We inquired the reason of this, and were answered, “Very good; ’nother day’s sun he come all right.” The articles most highly prized by the deceased while living are always buried with them. A small fence is erected around the tomb of a native, and the friends every morning carry fruits and flowers, and place them on the grave, for they believe the spirits of the dead linger for a time upon the earth before departing for the skies. If the deceased is a chief or a member of the royal family, a house is erected over the grave, and all the chiefs on the island remove to the place, build small houses, and remain there for three months, the usual term of mourning, during which time they present offerings very bountifully, and with a great deal of state. After the One Saturday evening a native from the island of Rotumah, called Rotumah Tom, came on board with a large number of fine pigeons for our Sunday dinner, which we found very fat, and fine eating. We received a present of a mess of flying-fish also, on Sunday morning, from the king, which were caught the previous night. He is very kind to us, sending bread-fruit, smoking hot, every meal, for all hands, and other food which the island produces. A favorite dish with them is “poey,” and is prepared as follows: They bake a quantity of tarra (which is something like our potato), and then pound it on a large flat stone, mix in some roasted bananas, and, after working it sufficiently, grate up the meat of old cocoanuts, and, inclosing the gratings in leaves, by squeezing extract the white milky substance, and cover the poey in such a manner as to resemble frosting. Some of the poey is made from the banana and bread-fruit, and is truly excellent. After it is prepared it is placed on large banana leaves, and is then ready for consumption. We were fortunate in being at the island at this time, as Monday, December 16th, was the day for the annual visit of the high-priest of Blueskin, with his train, and we had an opportunity of witnessing the whole affair. The occasion was one of great excitement among the natives, they looking upon the proceedings with a great deal of solemnity and awe. Our crew were all ashore, and appeared to be highly amused, nearly all going to the opposite side of the small island from the harbor to Our Pitt’s Island native, Friday, could hardly suppress his astonishment and laughter during the whole proceeding, and, on our asking him his opinion of the show, exclaimed, “What for all the same? All the same Kanaka pool!” We proceeded to the house of CÆsar, where a feast was to be held after the ceremonies at Zegrah’s, as we will now call him. We had received an invitation the day before, so that we felt ourselves “perfectly at home” among the “nobility.” On arriving, we found his large cook-house filled with natives, who were waiting for the ceremonies to commence. CÆsar was seated on a mat in one corner, with some of his petty chiefs about him. He very kindly offered us seats at his right on the mat, and we accordingly “squatted.” He asked us, “You been see Blueskin?” and on our replying in the affirmative, he wished to know how we liked him. We gave him our opinion in as few words as possible, and expressed ourselves as being highly pleased with the performances. The next day we called upon Zegrah, and, after talking with him some little time, he urged us to take up our quarters with him as long as the ship remained; On going home the first evening we thought best to take a stroll across the island, then take the sand-beach to the house. On arriving at the beach, behold! it was high tide, and we must either climb stone walls or take the water, which was some three feet in depth. We concluded to wade it, and prepared ourselves accordingly by assuming Strong’s Island costume, and then “pitched in.” Occasionally a roller would come booming along, dashing over and almost taking our feet from under us. It was just dark, and as we were plodding along, consoling ourselves with the thoughts of a good night’s rest after we reached our “hotel,” we suddenly perceived a large shark dart between us toward the wall, turn himself round very easily, and then swim away. We made all the noise possible to frighten him, and then ensued some of the tallest “walking in the water” that we had ever seen. We could only go ahead. There were high stone walls along shore, water ahead, water behind, and water to our right; so we e’en made the best of it, and “put” as fast as our legs would carry us through three feet depth of water. We were fortunate enough to escape The next morning, Wednesday, December 18th, “Sail ho!” was the cry. On looking, we saw a ship off the passage, and presently a boat made its appearance and came ashore. The ship proved to be the “Planter,” of Nantucket, full, bound home. Captain H. came ashore in the boat, and brought his clothing and some goods. He informed the king that he wished to reside on the island for a short time, as he did not like to go to America at present. We learned the following particulars in regard to Captain H. and the “Planter:” While the ship was cruising off Pitt’s Island, a barrel of bad meat had been opened, which created considerable dissatisfaction among the crew, and they finally threw it overboard, and said they would do no more work until they had good meat. The captain told them they should have no more until the regular time, as they had no right to throw the other overboard. Upon this, the men refused duty. The captain ordered them to work, but they firmly refused. He then ordered them to come aft, and this they refused to do, when he ordered the mate to go forward and bring the ringleader aft. Upon this, one of the crew threw out a threat that, if he came forward and laid his hands upon any of them, they would break his head, or something to that effect. The captain, thinking These events transpired but a few weeks before the ship visited Strong’s Island, and the captain, thinking it better to wait a year or two before returning home, wished to remain on this island during the interim. The king, after some conversation with our captain, gave his consent, and, accordingly, Captain H. had his property transferred from the ship to the shore, leaving her in command of the mate. The ship did not anchor, but the things were brought ashore in boats. When the last boat was about leaving the shore, “Smut,” alias the blacksmith, and our friend Mackey, stepped in, and, accordingly, stepped out, as that was the last we heard of them. We were sorry to lose Mackey, as in doing so we lost one great source of amusement; but he was gone, and, before it was known on board that they had deserted, the “Planter” was off, with square yards and a stiff breeze. Some of the crew one day started for the shore in a small canoe, and before they had got half way it capsized, slightly spilling them out. They had a fine ducking, as well as a long swim for it. The same day, we, Hardly a day had passed since our arrival in port that we had not turned our eyes large-islandward, and longed for a stroll among its mountains, valleys, and groves, but had delayed the intended visit from the want of a suitable guide. On Friday, the 20th, however, that want was supplied by Zegrah offering his services for the occasion. We accepted them with pleasure, and, in company with two other shipmates, crossed the channel in a canoe. In low tide this channel is fordable. We found the houses were not so large nor comfortable as on the small island, nor so neatly kept, and are more scattering. We encountered many ruins and walls here also, but no canals. After rambling over hills and rocks, through woods and swamps, and finding ourselves completely covered with mud, we made our way back, having encountered nothing worthy of note, and our bright anticipations, which we had long cherished, just about as near realized as thousands of others that we have had. But we must learn wisdom by experience, we thought, and thus consoled ourselves. Our man Friday we find a capital fellow to stroll on shore with, he having a perfect fund of wit and drollery to draw upon at pleasure. Wherever we went we introduced him as the brother to the king of his island, and he was accordingly treated with the greatest respect, which amused him infinitely. We found him very useful in our rambles also; for, when we were thirsty, he was always ready to ascend a cocoanut-tree, and pass down a sufficient quantity of the rich nuts to satisfy the thirst of all. One day, while he was thus engaged, a native came, running and hallooing, to see who was On Sunday morning, December 22d, we found that our third mate and another man had deserted in the course of the night, taking with them all their clothing. All hands rejoiced that the third mate, the great bully, had left, and the captain shipped two men instead of the deserters. These men had been on the island some months. But we had been some time in port; all our wood, water, and fresh provisions were on board, and we were ready for sea. Accordingly, at five A.M. on Monday, December 23d, we weighed anchor, and left this beautiful harbor, some with sorrowful hearts, and others rejoicing that they were once more rolling on “the deep blue sea.” But we did not immediately leave the island. The captain had a little more business to transact, and we “stood off and on” the harbor for two days, close in sight of the land. The next day after weighing anchor, the bark “Mary Frazier,” of New Bedford, Captain Haggerty, entered the harbor, so that our island friends were not left alone. She was from the Arctic Ocean, where she had taken thirteen hundred barrels whale oil in one season. We ascertained by her that our two deserters had escaped from the island in the bark “George Champlin,” Captain Swain, which vessel had been lying in the lee harbor. In the place of our third mate who had deserted, and his office become vacant thereby, the captain placed Mr. Smith, whom we took from the ship “Marcus,” as the reader will recollect, in exchange for the boat-steerer, who left us on account of his ill health. All hands were much pleased with the exchange, as Mr. S. was a noble man, and a sailor every inch of him. But scarcely had we left port, and on the next day succeeding that in which we learned of the escape of his predecessor, before he was taken violently ill with a burning pain in his stomach. For several days he continued growing This sudden death cast a gloom over the whole ship’s company. But a few days since, and he was the perfect embodiment of health. Little did he or any of his shipmates imagine that one brief week would find him clasped in the cold arms of death. Little did poor Smith imagine that he would so soon be called upon to obey the dread summons. Mr. S. had followed the sea from his youth, and had arrived at the age of about thirty, without ever experiencing sickness of any kind. He was a most excellent and thorough seamen, understood well his business, was peaceable and friendly to all, and while on board had conducted himself in such a manner as to take a firm hold upon the affections of his shipmates. He had secured the confidence and esteem of the captain and officers, as well as the respect and good-will of the men. He was prompt in the discharge of his duties, always performing them in a cheerful manner. But he has gone from our midst. Suddenly he was taken from us to that bourne from whence no traveler returns. Little does the landsman know the sweet comforts the dying sailor is deprived of. Separated from the home of his heart by thousands of miles, tossed to and fro on a sick couch, with no kind father to watch over and soothe the anguish of his pain; no loving mother comforting and praying for the salvation of the dear son; no dear brothers or sisters to sympathize and cheer the lonely hours with their presence—none of these to smooth the dying sailor’s lonely pillow, alleviate his wants, assuage his grief, and comfort his mind by divine teachings; none of their cheerful countenances to light the dark valley of the shadow of death. Yet every thing was done that was possible to do for Mr. S. to alleviate his sufferings and comfort his mind. But all At four P.M. we shortened sail, hauled aback the head yards, hoisted the ensign half-mast, and called all hands to “bury the dead.” The gangway board was removed, the body sewed up in a sheet, and weights attached to the feet, and then laid upon a plank. The services commenced by the captain reading a portion of the Holy Scriptures, then making some excellent and touching remarks, followed by a prayer. He then read the burial service, and when he said “we now commit this body to the deep,” the end of the plank was raised, and the body of poor Smith was consigned to its watery grave, there to rest till the morn of the resurrection, when the last trump shall sound, and the sea shall give up its dead. The body rapidly disappeared beneath the blue wave, and, on glancing around, the tear was seen in the eyes of all those hardy men—those men who had faced death without a blanched cheek or a fainting heart—as they took their last look at the body of their late shipmate. On the land, in the city or town, a death is hardly noticed, and is not felt; but on board a ship, with but a small circle, as in our case, of about thirty, living together as one family, and shut out from the world, as it were, one snatched from our small company is seriously missed, and death serves to bind the remaining still closer together, as the loss just experienced shows us all the uncertainty of human life, and no one knows who will next be called upon to pay the last sad debt of nature. May we all be prepared, that, should |