First view of the coast of Judea. Anxieties as we approached. State of the Country. Recent Rebellion. Investment of Jerusalem. Character of the Natives. Earthquakes. Taking of the City. English and American Missionaries. Death of Mrs. Thompson. Defeat of Ibrahim Pasha. Re-capture of the City. Conscription. Strange conduct of our Consul at Jaffa. He is dismissed from Office. Jaffa. Large clusters of Grapes. Eastern Story-tellers. Gardens and Watermelons of Jaffa. The Cactus.

We left the coast of Egypt on the 10th of August. Early on the morning of the 12th we had the pleasure of seeing the hills of Palestine emerging from the waters. What a thrill was occasioned by the sight!

The birth-place of a wide-spread and wonderful religion—the land of a thousand miracles—the original home of a people now spread every where, and every where a miracle; and every where, from Lapland to India, still yearning towards their father-land—the mountains, the plains of Judea were before us. In our earliest infancy we had tried to picture them—they were mingled with the deepest and warmest feelings of our maturer years; in imagination how often had we wandered over the hallowed ground, and here before us was now the reality itself.

A stretch of low and whitish coast gradually developed itself; and beyond this, at the distance of several miles, rose a chain of hills, as our glasses informed us, under pretty good cultivation, and sprinkled with villages. By and by the sun was reflected from a mass of white houses on the shore, encircled with walls and towers; this was Jaffa—the Joppa of the Scriptures, and the ancient as well as the present seaport of Jerusalem. I believe I may say there was a very strong sensation excited universally throughout the ship by the scene before us; for the religion of Judea had at least been that of our childhood, and there was probably scarcely an individual among us, in whose mind it was not connected with the tenderness of a good parent, or the kindness of some early friend still dear to our memory.

Our noble ship glided on, and began to approach the coast. She was the first American vessel that had ever entered these waters; and in her joyous motion, as she pushed the ripples aside, and threw back the morning rays from a cloud of canvass, we could almost imagine a participation in the feelings of her inmates. The stripes and stars were presently replied to by a similar ensign over the house of our consul at Jaffa; and the other consuls following suite, there was presently a display of nearly all the European flags in that ancient city.

The city of Jaffa is built on the side of a hill that rises immediately from the water’s edge; the houses are white, rising tier above tier; many are covered with whitewashed domes; and the white being now relieved by the consular flags, it had quite a pleasing appearance; its walls and towers, and a castle at the upper extremity, gave it also a show of strength; and had we found time for it, this proud array of pennon and battlement, assisted as it was by an encampment of soldiers in the neighborhood, might easily have carried the mind back to the days of chivalry and romance.

But we were occupied chiefly with ourselves; for with our pleasure at seeing the Holy Land was mingled an apprehension that, after all, we should not be permitted to set foot on shore. At Alexandria we had dire accounts of earthquake and war; and, what alarmed us more, of the plague; for although not one of us but would have been willing to meet this disease in his own individual case for the sake of seeing Jerusalem, yet the risk of introducing it into the ship was not to be thought of, and we knew that if there was any danger of this, the commodore would at once decide to have no communication. With these anxieties we approached the coast; and as the ship speeds onward, it may be well to state to the reader what was the state of Palestine at this time.

The ever-restless Pasha of Egypt had, about two years previous, without any warning to his master the Sultan, marched a large army into the country; and, on pretence of settling some difficulties among the natives, had seized on its strong places; after which he set the Turkish power at defiance. The Egyptian soldiers are almost universally men of light, but active and well-knit frames; and are capable of enduring fatigue, and fitted for any kind of warfare. The restlessness of their sovereign keeps them also in a state of constant activity; and many of them, though young, are already veterans in the field. The Turkish soldiers, on the other hand, are unused to motion—are mostly without experience, and lack confidence both in themselves and in their new system, which they but imperfectly understand. They have no particular attachment to their officers; while the Egyptians, though at first disliking military service, are said in a short time to become so fond of it, as to have and to desire no other home than their tent; they feel also, universally, a strong attachment both to Ibrahim Pasha and to Mahomet Ali.

We may find in all this the secret of their success whenever brought into contact with the Turkish soldiery; and there can be little doubt, that if foreign powers had not interfered, Mahomet Ali, if he had chosen, might have seated himself on the throne of Constantinople. Some of the Turkish soldiers taken in the recent expedition toward the Turkish capital, were sent to Egypt as prisoners; and we were informed, excited universal ridicule in their passage through Syria by their sluggish and awkward movement. But I have wandered a little from my subject.

On getting possession of Syria, Mahomet Ali began there the same system that he had been pursuing in Egypt, but without having properly weighed the difference in the native character. He first laid heavy exactions on the purses of the inhabitants, who indeed had little to spare, the country producing scarcely more than enough for their own support. This they bore, though with grumbling: tax after tax was laid, and with difficulty raised; and a general dissatisfaction was the consequence. At length he demanded their sons for his army and navy, and at once, the whole infuriated populace rose into rebellion. “Take our purses,” they cried, “if it must be so; we can part with them; but our children we will not give.” Jerusalem, where the Egyptian garrison was strongest, was in a few days invested by a force of 20,000 men, fierce and lawless people, and now maddened into phrenzy. This was eleven weeks previous to our visit. The rebels were badly provided with ammunition, and had no cannon, but spread themselves over the hills around, hoping, perhaps, to starve the garrison into terms, or succeed by stratagem; or more probably, scarcely knowing themselves what they wanted, or whither to direct their efforts. It seems to have been a sudden and universal outburst of indignant feeling, almost without aim and without hope. The reader, to form a conception of the scene, must fancy a people, in color, costume, and disposition, very much like the Indian tribes bordering on our white settlements; for such, in a striking degree, are the appearance and character of the country population of Palestine.

I have selected for this comparison the Indians dwelling on our borders, as their debased character and squalid appearance bring them nearer to the Arabs of Palestine than are their brethren further back; and except that the Arab lacks the broad face and high cheek bone of the Indian, I could almost have fancied the wild looking beings whom I have seen stalking into Jerusalem, to be a portion of the same wretched people we often meet in the streets of our frontier towns. Their dress consists of a hyck, a species of long blanket wrapped around them, in the manner that the blanket is used by our Indians; and, as with them, under garments are sometimes employed, and sometimes the hyck is the only garment; over the head a handkerchief is thrown so as to leave the face exposed, and falls over the neck and shoulders, and this is kept in its place by a small fillet drawn tight over the temples. From beneath the handkerchief peep out dark elfin locks and black uneasy eyes, while the expression of the face is any thing but gentle or attractive. A large part of them are indeed robbers by profession, and plunder without scruple whenever any one more helpless than themselves may happen to fall in their way.

The condition of the inhabitants of Jerusalem, when they found themselves encircled by this wild and lawless host, was, as may be imagined, a very uncomfortable one; but another horror was immediately added, one of a more frightful, because more mysterious character. It seemed as if heaven itself was about to fight for their enemies. During the very night which succeeded the investment of the city, it was shaken by an earthquake—the shocks were repeated during the next day and night—many of the houses in the city were shaken down, and the massive walls of the convent at Bethlehem were split from top to bottom. The affrighted inhabitants took refuge in the yards of their falling tenements, and in the open places of the city; and thus, while the hills were rocking to and fro, and wailing was going up from every part of Jerusalem, some of the enemy found admittance one night, it is said, by subterranean passages, and these throwing open the gates, the hordes rushed in, and the place was given up to pillage and outrage. There were, at that time, an American, and also an English missionary family, living in the city. Mrs. Thompson, the wife of the American missionary, was in feeble health, and had an infant but a few months old to increase her anxieties; her husband was absent, and after repeated but unsuccessful attempts to join her during the siege, had been compelled to return and wait the issue at Jaffa. She took refuge with their English missionary friends, Mr. and Mrs. Nicholayson; and they had all, at the early part of the war, shut themselves up in Mr. Nicholayson’s house, subsisting in a rude way on some grain and dried fruits, which he had providentially on hand. Mrs. Thompson, in a letter to her husband, has touchingly described their situation, the horrors of the earthquake, and their greater horror when the cries of terror and triumph arose on the taking of the city; and when, on the following morning, they heard the Arabs forcing their own doors, and soon after met them peering among the chambers below. Mr. Nicholayson, who speaks the native language; and understands their habits well, immediately bribed some of the intruders, and, by paying them well, engaged a dozen of them to act as guardians of his house and premises, and thus saved the families and his effects from injury, except a few articles which the guardians themselves took a fancy to and carried off in their subsequent hasty retreat. Mr. Thompson’s house was stripped, not a single article escaping their hands. The Egyptian soldiers who had formed the garrison of the city took refuge in a strong castle at the Jaffa gate, which is near Mr. Nicholayson’s dwelling, and the invaders seizing on all the neighboring houses, a fire was kept up between the two parties, which I believe did little injury, except to the houses, some of which were riddled by the balls from the castle; among them was that of Mr. Nicholayson, and his family were once more compelled to take refuge in the yard. Mrs. Thompson about this time began to sink under the effects of such repeated alarms, and of the fatigues and exposure operating on her feeble health; a violent attack of ophthalmia succeeded, by which she lost her sight, and was reduced to extreme feebleness; at length, after much suffering, borne with meekness, she yielded her spirit with soothing hope into the hands of Him who gave it. Just previous to her death she was heard to say, “native, native, native land.” She was a lady of superior endowments and great excellence of character; but doubtless, in the hands of a wise Providence, from this seeming evil good will yet arise.

Ibrahim Pasha, on the first news of this rebellion, had hastened from Jaffa for the relief of the city; but he seems to have underrated his enemy, and to have acted without his usual prudence. The rebels took post in a narrow pass about seven miles from the city, and starting suddenly up from amid the steep and broken ground, poured upon his troops such a deadly fire, that they broke; and it was only by hard fighting, and a masterly retreat, that he saved his army from entire destruction. He retired to Jaffa, and having, as soon as possible, provided himself with sufficient force, once more advanced upon the city. But he found no enemy there. The natives, the excitement of their first fury now past, and probably despairing of success against a foe of such formidable resources, dropped gradually away from the city; and, with their plunder, retired to the distant fastnesses of their mountains. They were, however, not allowed to rest. The Egyptian leader, binding his field pieces to the backs of camels, crossed the Jordan in pursuit, and, at the time of our visit, was ferreting them out, though not without great risk to himself. He advanced so far that the communication between him and Jerusalem was for some time cut off, and serious fears were entertained for his safety; but he at last succeeded, not only in subduing, but what was a matter of greater hazard, in disarming the people. Camel loads of guns and attaghans or swords were sent to Jerusalem and Jaffa; and, relentless to the last, he forced from them the conscripts whom he judged necessary for his wide and ambitious military schemes. I saw some of the latter marched into Jaffa one day, between files of soldiers, and forced into the boats waiting to convey them on board his fleet, then lying off to receive them. Poor fellows! they looked heart-broken, and probably a large portion of them were destined never again to visit their native hills. A more melancholy company I think I have never seen; they dragged themselves along mechanically, without noticing any one, and some were able to keep on only by clinging to the garments of those before, or by being supported by a companion on either side. After traversing the city they came to the water-gate, which is a narrow passage between two towers, and is terminated by a wooden platform six or eight feet square, and projecting about five feet above the water. This is the only landing place; the boats were lying below; and forced along the platform, they were driven by the point of the bayonet, or caught by the shoulders and tumbled unceremoniously into a heap at the bottom of the boat, to extricate themselves and find a better place as well as they might be able. In spite of my commiseration, I could scarcely help smiling at their horror, when, in turning the angle of the gate-way, they found themselves in such proximity to the salt water. Some of them shrank back with all their might; but it availed them nothing; the boats were successively filled, and pulling off, presently reached a sand-bar crossing the road-stead, where they began to plunge in the breakers;—then each sought its separate vessel, and the mountain recruits were swallowed up in the vortex caused by Mohammed Ali’s wild ambition.

I must now carry the reader back to our own ship, which he will recollect we left, only yet approaching the coast. When within a few miles of it, our motions became cautious, for we knew nothing of the sea from experience, and our charts and books gave but little information. The schooner Shark was, by and by, ordered to approach, and directed to run in and inquire about the health of the city and the country adjoining. I got permission, and availed myself of a boat sent with the flag-lieutenant to her, determined if I should not be permitted to touch the Holy Land, at least to have a better view, and to get as near to it as possible. As we approached the shore, we saw a boat putting off with our national ensign, and concluding that it contained the consul, laid to till it came sufficiently near for parley. His answer to the first question, “What is the health of Jaffa and Jerusalem?” produced a sensation of thrilling joy. “Both enjoyed good health,” he replied, “and the country was in a state of tolerable quiet.” So we invited him on board, and right glad he seemed to be, to get out of his small vessel and find himself on board of a larger one. But alas for our new-fledged joy! The Shark presently got out to sea, and began to roll and pitch among the waves; our consul got sea-sick, and we thought frightened too; and now alarmed us with news that they had the plague in Jerusalem, and more than half suspected it to be in Jaffa; that a Frank of distinction had just died of it in the former place—that the monasteries had put themselves in quarantine, and that for us to venture there, would be highly dangerous and imprudent. We did not know what to make of this, but carried him on board the Delaware; and now, in that large ship, as quiet and as firm as the solid land, he came to himself, and declared once more that the country was safe, and the cities healthy. As night was approaching, we ran out to sea to avoid the dangerous proximity of the shore; and though in the morning we were some distance off, the consul, who had remained on board, still adhered, I believe, to his last opinion; but the Commodore, not knowing what to make of him, turned for information to another source. The Egyptian fleet cruising here in aid of Ibrahim Pasha, had come down, and anchored in the evening about a mile from Jaffa, and the schooner was sent to the Admiral with Commodore Patterson’s respects, and with inquiries respecting the health of the cities and the country between. The result was gratifying; the Admiral said he had not heard of the plague having been at all at Jerusalem—that it certainly was not there now, nor did he know of any other sickness in the country. The reply was accompanied with the compliments and offers of service usual in such intercourse of men of war. He advised us also to run in till within a mile or a mile and a half of the shore, and there anchor, as there is a strong current setting to the northward, and we might be in danger of getting entangled in some shoals lying eight or ten miles in that direction. This we accordingly did; and then, forthwith, began to make preparations for our long-talked of visit. A word more, however, about our consul, before he is dismissed. He accompanied us to Jerusalem, and was a great annoyance from first to last. The Commodore had reason from other sources to suppose him unworthy of his office, and took measures immediately to have him removed, and another person, one of merit, to be put in his place; and before long we had the pleasure of being informed that all this was done; and Americans who may hereafter visit Jaffa, will doubtless meet with courteous and gentlemanly treatment.

Jaffa, to which we made several visits while preparing for the journey, proved, on closer inspection, to be a filthy and wretched-looking, place. The streets were of course narrow, that is common in all eastern towns; in addition, however, those of Jaffa go straight up a hill so steep as to require steps cut in the rock, and as these steps are worn, and often slippery and covered with filth, a walk through the town is one of some labor, and we did not often attempt it. Indeed there is little to tempt a person to do so, as the city is not large, and has not a single building of any importance. I ought to mention one street as an exception to the general character. It starts at the water-gate, and stretching along by the city wall, on the sea shore, is sufficiently level; on the land side of this are ranges of small warehouses, which were nearly empty at the time of our visit, and in no wise abstracted from the dull monotony of the place. By and by, this street turns into the city, and beginning to ascend a low eminence, becomes the principal bazaar, or, I believe I should say, the bazaar, of the place. The shops which line it on either side were poorly furnished, and I found nothing to interest me in the whole bazaar, except some bunches of grapes. But these did interest me. One of them I am certain was two feet in length, not, however, with grapes thickly clustering along, but scattered at intervals; it was thus not so remarkable for the quantity of fruit, but for its length; and I can easily imagine that where such clusters are common, some of similar length, and fully charged with fruit, may easily be found. On my speaking of this cluster to some of the officers, they told me that they had seen others in the market still larger.

Along this bazaar I witnessed a scene, the evening of my return from Jerusalem, which caused the place, with all its previous dulness, to leave a pleasing impression on my mind. Darkness had, on this occasion, gathered round us, while yet some distance from the city, and I had been riding on, engaged in sad musings about the country and its melancholy history; we crossed at length the open waste between the gardens and the city, and then passing beneath the dark archway of the gate, and over its pavement of loose and slippery stones, I found myself suddenly amid a group, which conjured up at once all that I had read in the Arabian Nights. Just inside this gate is a coffee house, in front of which the street spreads out into two or three times its usual width. The place was now all lighted up with lamps, hung upon pillars, or amid the trellis work supporting a large grape vine, or to the overhanging vines themselves; mats were strewed around, and thickly occupied with groups in the rich and striking costume of the east; some were sipping coffee or sherbet, and others engaged with their pipes; but all were gazing with kindling eyes and animated features on a man who stood in the midst, with outstretched arms and great volubility of tongue. He was an oriental story-teller, and, to judge from the deep and unusual interest stamped on the features of his audience, must have been one of quick sagacity and considerable eloquence. Further on I passed another company similarly employed.

But though Jaffa may have but little to attract a stranger, its gardens will have much, particularly if he happen to be there in the season for its water-melons, as was the case with us. We had heard a great deal about the Jaffa watermelons, and our expectations were so highly raised, that any thing short of the highest perfection would have disappointed us. But we were not disappointed. The melons are not unusually large, but of a richness and delicacy which, I believe, is no where surpassed, if it can be equalled. Some of our officers thought they had sometimes met with as good melons at home, but most of them were decided in the preference for those from the Jaffa gardens.[13] These gardens commence a few hundred yards from the walls of the city, and are from a quarter to half a mile in length; the soil is almost a pure sand, and seems incapable of producing any thing at all; but wherever watered, rewards the labor of the operator with abundance of fruits and vegetables of the greatest variety. Pomegranates here are in the highest perfection, and the cactus, or prickly pear, grows to the height of twelve or fifteen feet; along the road to Jerusalem it forms a hedge for the gardens, and a most effectual one it is. Its fruit grows on the edge of the leaf, and in these countries is oval in shape, and about three inches in length; it is full of seeds, but is cooling and refreshing, and has, to me, an agreeable taste. Back of the gardens of Jaffa, the country is generally open and deserted; but in spots it is cultivated, and appears to be sufficiently productive.