Preparations to visit the Pyramids. Audience of leave with the Governor of Cairo. Visit of the ladies of our party to the Sultana. Description of the Harem.

The 24th was a day of bustle, a large portion of it being spent at home, superintending the storing of wines and fruits, the cooking of fowls and eggs, and the preparation of all the et ceteras that would be required by a few days’ residence on the desert.

The plan, as formed by our good friend, Mr. Gliddon, was to make an early start on the morrow, to the great Pyramids of Ghizeh, thence proceed to the Pyramids of Sakhara, sleep in tents in their neighborhood; on the following morning examine the site of Memphis, and then going on board his boat, which would be directed to meet us there, to drop down the river, stopping by the way at the military and naval school at Toura.

As it was the Commodore’s intention, after this excursion, to start immediately on his return to the ship, he had sent on the 23d, to the governor of Cairo, to say that he would this day have an audience of leave; and the ladies of his family also had despatched a messenger to the Sultana, stating that they would make the visit which, on the previous occasion, they had promised her.

Accordingly, at 9 A. M. the party proceeded to the citadel in the same order as before, where the officers were received by the governor in a larger and more magnificent hall than at the former visit. While the usual compliments of pipes, coffee, and sherbet were offered, the Commodore made the governor his acknowledgments “for the honor and great attention shown him as an American officer, and to the officers with him; stating that their civilities had left us nothing to desire, and that, individually, he felt under great obligations to his Excellency the Pasha, a lively remembrance of whose kindness he should ever retain.” To this the governor replied, that he acted only according to his instructions, and was happy in being the instrument of carrying them into effect; the American commander was considered the guest of the Pasha, who, if he had been present, would have been able to do more, and would doubtless have ordered a palace for our accommodation. To this there was added much on both sides that was complimentary, if that can be called compliment on our part, which proceeded from real admiration and truly grateful feeling.

From the governor’s hall, the party retired to the palace of Mohammed Ali, and were again served with coffee, &c.; the mouth-pieces of the pipes served on this occasion being richly set with diamonds; the coffee cups were set in fillagree work of gold, enriched also with the same precious stones. Some hours were spent in smoking, and in visiting the interesting objects in and about the citadel not seen before; while, in the mean time, the ladies of the Commodore’s family were making their visit to those of the Harem.

I am allowed to insert here an account of this visit from a letter, written without the least idea of publication, but which places before us, in graphic language, scenes which strangers were never before allowed to witness. Our interest in reading it takes a melancholy character from the reflection that the accomplished youthful writer is now an inmate of the tomb.

“We are the only Christians who have ever been admitted into the Pasha’s Harem. We were there twice. The first time was a mere visit, but the second was to spend the day. I must endeavor to describe it for you. At the gate we were received by a dozen male attendants, who led us to the garden gate, where we found three girls playing upon different Arab instruments, while two others were singing and two dancing, magnificently dressed in crimson and blue cloth, embroidered in gold—the full pantaloons hanging over the foot, just allowing an embroidered slipper to be seen—a jacket, tight to the shape, without sleeves, open a little upon the chest, where appeared a chemise of blue or white gauze, closely spangled, sleeves of the same, hanging large and full to the elbow, and down behind in a dozen plaits; and on the side and top of the head, large sprigs of diamonds. A sash of gold tissue, with a deep gold fringe, finished the dress. These pretty creatures preceded us to the palace door, where we were met like old friends by the Sultana, her maids of honor and attendants, to the number of a hundred at least. The great hall of state into which we were ushered, was an immense one, lined and floored with white marble; in the centre a basin fifteen feet square, and a large fountain, from which the clearest water was playing; the ceiling richly painted and gilt; one side of the hall lined with ottomans of white silk, embroidered in gold, and a beautiful Persian carpet spread in front of them. As soon as we were seated, coffee and pipes were handed to us. The Sultana is about 35 years old, with a fine face, though the eye is stern—dignified and affable in her manners. Her dress was a chali, made in Turkish style, only more closed over the neck. On the head was a sort of skull cap, formed entirely of diamonds. Around this was twisted an embroidered kerchief, and on the left side, down near the ear, was placed a sprig of flowers, made of enormous diamonds: earrings, a single pair, shaped like a drop, as large as the end of my little finger, and on her little finger was a most superb diamond ring. Around us stood the hundred attendants, dressed in colored silks; and every one, even of the lowest rank, with heads covered with diamonds. The pipe stems and sockets of the coffee cups were also covered with these precious stones. Such a glitter I never saw before. An Armenian woman, who spoke Italian, was there as our interpretess. Our gloves and buckles excited their admiration, indeed our whole dress. I don’t know that I was ever so hauled and pulled about as I was that day.

“We were taken all over the palace, and it vied throughout in elegance with the great hall. At half past 12, we were led by the Sultana down to the reception room to dinner. As we entered, girls bearing silver basins approached; others with pitchers poured water over our hands; others again presented us towels. On the centre of the Persian carpet was placed a small table, about a foot square, covered with a cloth of gold tissue. On that was a circular glass waiter, about three feet in diameter. In the centre was a dish of roast mutton. The Sultana sat down, with my mother and self on either side of her; then E——, and G——, and a lady of the court, formerly a slave of the Pasha’s, now married to a colonel. The interpretess stood and carved for us. The china was French and handsome—silver knives and forks, &c., which the Sultana knew not how to use. She punched at the meat in the most unmerciful manner. When we sat down, a napkin was placed on each of our laps; another, embroidered in gold, laid over the right shoulder; and a third, and a finer one, laid upon the lap, to wipe the mouth with. Some of the slaves fanned us—some held the different dishes—others salvers of knives, and others again silver pitchers, and so on. What with the beautiful dresses, the glitter of gold and diamonds, the divan, the spacious hall and fountain, it seemed that the scenes of the Arabian Nights were realized before me. I wish you could have seen it. Our only regret was that this beautiful scene could not be enjoyed by some of our friends.

“It is said there is no pleasure without pain. Truly it was so in this case. The dinner was almost too much for us. We counted thirty-nine different dishes, served one at a time, and of each we were obliged to eat a little. And so strangely served as they were! The first five dishes were of mutton, rice, &c.,—then a sweet dish—then fried fish and fried lemons—then meat—then another sweet dish—next fried fish and nuts—and so on till the thirty-ninth, which was stewed rice and bonny-clabber. The glass salver was then taken away, and a silver one, with melons, peaches, grapes, &c., replaced it. When we rose from the table, the girls with the basins knelt before us, and hands were washed as before, when pipes and coffee were given us to finish off with. While we smoked, the Sultana retired to prayers, which she does five times a day. Then if you could have witnessed the scene, you would have imagined us amongst a parcel of great children. Oh! how we were dragged about, patted and pulled; each woman declaring we belonged to her, and should not speak to the others. At 3 o’clock we were sent for to depart, as the gentlemen were satiated with smoking, and could wait no longer. They had been with the Governor all this time. The Sultana held us tight, and said the Capidan Pasha had no business to send for us; and it was 4 o’clock before we could get away. We made a great procession through the garden. First went the musical, dancing, and singing girls; then the Sultana and ourselves, slaves bearing fans of peacock’s feathers over our heads; and then came the attendants. At the garden gate, sherbet was handed, when we took a kind farewell of our hospitable Sultana, and were consigned to the care of the male attendants, and at the carriage found the gentlemen impatient to hear all about what we had seen.”