Early, ere the dawn, the strangers at the HortobÁgy inn started on their way. This inn, though only a "csÁrda," or wayside house of call, was no owl-haunted, tumble-down, reed-thatched place, such as the painter had imagined, but a respectable brick building, with a shingle roof, comfortable rooms, and a capital kitchen and cellar quite worthy of any town. Below the flower garden, the HortobÁgy river wound silently along, between banks fringed with reeds and willows. Not far from the inn, the high road crossed it on a substantial stone bridge of nine arches. Debreczin folk maintain that the solidity of this bridge is due to the masons having used milk to slake their lime; jealous people say that they employed wine made from HortobÁgy grapes, and that this drew it together. So the strangers set off for those wild parts of the plain, where even the puszta dwellers need a guide, in a couple of light carriages. The two coachmen, however, knew the district, and needed no pilot. They therefore left the cowboy, who had been sent as guide, to amuse himself at the inn, he promising to overtake them before they reached the herd. Now, at the time of starting, the waning moon and the brightest of the stars were still visible, while over in the east dawn was already breaking. "What a Shakespearian idea," he said. He grew more and more impressed with the endless vision of puszta, when, an hour later, their galloping steeds brought them where nothing could be seen save sky above and grass below, where there was not a bird or frog-eating stork to relieve the marvellous monotony. "What tones! What tints! What harmony in the contrasts!" "It's all well enough," said the farmer, "till the mosquitoes and the horse-flies come." "And that fresh, velvety turf, against those dark pools!" "Those puddles there? 'Tocsogo' as we call them." Meanwhile, high above, sounded the sweet song of the lark. "They're thin enough now, but wait till the wheat ripens," replied the farmer. Slowly the light grew, the purple of the sky melted into gold; the morning star, herald of the sun, already twinkled above the now visible horizon, and a rainbow-like iridescence played over the dewy grass, keeping pace with the movements of the dark figures. The horses, four to each carriage, flew over the pathless green meadow-land, till, presently, something began to show dark on the horizon—a plantation, the first acacias on the hitherto treeless puszta, and some bluish knolls. "Those are the Tartar hills of ZÁm," explained the Debreczin farmer to his companions. "There stood some village destroyed by the Tartars. The ruins of the church still peep out of the grass, and the dogs, when they dig holes, scrape out human bones." "And there, what sort of a Golgotha is that?" "That," said the farmer, "is no Golgotha, They halted at the acacias, and there agreed to await the doctor who was to come jogging along from the Mata puszta, in his one-horse trap. Meanwhile the painter made notes in his sketch-book, falling from ecstasy to ecstasy. "What subjects! What motives!" In vain his companions urged him to draw a fine solitary acacia, rather than a group of nasty old thistles! At last appeared the doctor and his gig, coming up from a slanting direction, but he did not stop, only shouted "Good morning" from the box, and then, "Hurry, hurry! before the daylight comes!" So after a long enough drive they reached "the great herd." This is the pride of the HortobÁgy puszta—one thousand five hundred cattle all in one mass. Now all lay silent, but whether sleeping or not, who could tell? No one has ever seen cattle with closed eyes and heads resting on the ground, and to them Hamlet's soliloquy, "To sleep, perchance to dream," in no wise applies. "What a picture!" cried the painter, Thereupon he sprang from the carriage, saying, "Please follow the others. I see the shelter, and will meet you there." So, taking his paint-box and camp-stool, and laying his sketch-book on his knees, he began rapidly jotting down the scene, while the carriage with the farmer drove on. All at once, the two watch dogs of the herd, observing this strange figure on the puszta, rushed towards him, barking loudly. It was, however, not the painter's way to be frightened. The dogs, moreover, with their white coats and black noses, fell into the scheme of colour. Nor did they attack the man, peacefully squatting there, but when quite close to him, stood still. "What could he be?" Sitting down, they poked out their heads inquisitively at the sketch-book. "What was this?" The Luckily the "taligÁs," or wheel-barrow boy, came up at that moment. The taligÁs is the youngest boy on the place, and his duty is to follow the cattle with his wheel-barrow, and scrape up the "poor man's peat" which they leave on the meadow. This serves as fuel on the puszta, and its smoke is alike grateful to the nose of man and beast. The taligÁs rushed his barrow between the fighting dogs, separated and pursued them, shouting, "Get away there!" For the puszta watch-dog does not fear the stick, but of the wheel-barrow he is in terror. The taligÁs was a very smart little lad, in his blue shirt and linen breeches worked with scarlet. He delivered the message entrusted to him by the gentlemen, very clearly. It was "that the painter should join them at the shelter, where there was "Can you run me along in your barrow?" asked the painter, "for this silver piece?" "Oh, sir!" said the lad, "I've wheeled a much heavier calf than you! Please step in, sir." So utilising this clever idea, the painter gained both his ends. He got to the "karÁm," seated in the barrow, and managed to finish his characteristic sketch by the way. Meanwhile the others had left their carriages, and were introducing the Vienna cattle buyer to the herdsman in charge. This man was an exceptionally fine example of the Hungarian puszta-dweller. A tall, strong fellow, with hair beginning to turn grey, and a curled and waxed moustache. His face was bronzed from exposure to hard weather, and his eyebrows drawn together from constant gazing into the sun. By "KarÁm" is understood on the puszta that whole arrangement which serves as shelter against wind and storm for both man and beast. Wind is the great enemy. The herdsmen's dwelling is a little hut, its walls plastered like a swallow's nest. It is not meant for sleeping in, there is not room enough, but is only a place where the men keep their furs and their "bank." This is just a small calf's skin with the feet left on, and a lock in place of the head. It holds their tobacco, red pepper, even their papers. Round the walls hang their cloaks, the embroidered "szÜr" for summer, for winter the fur-lined bunda. These are the herdsman's coverings, and in them he sleeps beneath God's sky. Only the overseer reposes under the projecting eaves, on a wooden bench for bedstead, above his head Before the hut stands a small circular erection woven out of reeds, with a brick-paved flooring and no roof. This is the kitchen, the "vÁsalo," and here the herdsman's stew, "gulyÁshÚs" and meal porridge are cooked in a big pot hung on a forked stick. The taligÁs does the cooking. A row of long-handled tin spoons are stuck in the reed wall. "But where did the gentlemen leave the cowboy?" asked the overseer. "He had some small account to settle with the innkeeper's daughter," answered the farmer. His name was SajgatÓ. "Well, if he comes home drunk the betyÁr!" "BetyÁr," interrupted the painter, delighted at hearing the word. "Is our cowboy a betyÁr?" "I only used the expression as a compliment," the overseer explained. "Ah!" sighed the painter, "I should so "Well, the gentleman won't find one here, we don't care for thieves. If one comes roaming around we soon kick him out." "So there are no betyÁrs left on the HortobÁgy puszta?" "There's no saying! Certainly there are plenty of thieves among the shepherds, and some of the swineherds turn brigands, and it does sometimes happen that when a csikÓs gets silly and loses his head, he sinks to a vagabond betyÁr, but no one can ever remember a cowboy having taken to robbery." "How is that?" "Because the cowboy works among quiet, sensible beasts. He never sits drinking with shepherds and swineherds." "Then the cowherd is the aristocrat of the puszta?" remarked the manager of the stables. "That's it, exactly. Just as counts and barons are among grand folk, so are csikÓs and cowboys among the other herdsmen." "So there is no equality on the puszta?" "For gentlemen to take in each other at the horse fair is, however, quite an aristocratic custom!" "Still more so at the cattle market, so I would recommend you to use your eyeglass while you are with us, for when once you have driven off your cattle I am no longer responsible." "Thanks for the warning," said the manager. Here the doctor interrupted the discussion. "Come out, gentlemen," he cried, "in front of the kitchen, and see the sunrise." The painter rushed forward, and began to sketch, but soon fell into utter despair. "Why, this is absurd! What colour! The painter threw down his brushes. "These Hungarians," he said, "must always have something out of the common. Here they are giving us a sunrise which is a reality, but at the same time an impossibility. That is not as it should be." The doctor began to explain that this was only an optical delusion, like the fata "All the same it is impossible," said the painter. "Why, I can't believe what I see." But the sun did not leave him in wonder much longer. Hitherto, the whole display had been but a dazzling effect of mirage, and when the real orb rose with floods of light, the human eye could no longer gaze at it with impunity. Then the rosy heavens suddenly brightened into gold, and the line of the horizon appeared to melt into the sky. At the first flash of sunlight the whole sleeping camp stirred. The forest of horns of fifteen hundred cattle moved. The old bull shook the bell at his neck, and at its sound uprose the puszta chorus. One thousand five hundred cattle began to low. "Splendid! Good Lord," exclaimed the painter ecstatically. "This is a Wagner chorus! Oboes, hunting horns, kettledrums! What an overture! What a scene! It is a finale from the GÖtterdÄmmerung!" "Yes, yes," said Mr. SajgatÓ. "But now they are going to the well. Every cow Three herdsmen ran to the well—the beam of which testified to the skill of the carpenter—and setting the three buckets in motion, emptied the water into the large drinking trough—fatiguing work which has to be done three times a day. "Would it not be simpler to use some mechanism worked by horse-power?" inquired the German gentleman of the overseer. "We have such a machine," he replied, "but the cowboy would rather wear out his own hands than frighten his horse with it." Meanwhile a fourth cowboy had been occupied in picking out those cows which belonged to Mr. SajgatÓ, and in removing their calves, which he drove into the corral, the mothers following them meekly into the fenced enclosure. "These are mine," said Mr. SajgatÓ. "But how can the herdsman tell among a thousand cattle which belong to Mr. SajgatÓ?" asked the manager of the stables. "How do you know one from the other?" "Has the gentleman ever seen two cows just alike?" "To my eyes they are all alike." "But not to the herdsman's," said the overseer. The manager, however, professed himself perfectly satisfied with the selected cattle. The barrow-boy now came up, and announced that from the look-out tree he had seen the other cowherd coming up at a gallop. "Running his horse!" growled the overseer. "Just let him show his face here. I'll thrash him till he forgets even his own name." "But you won't really strike him?" "No, for whoever beats a cowherd will have to kill him before he cures him in that way, and he's my favourite lad too! I brought him up and christened him. He is my godson, the rascal!" "Yet you part with him? He is taking the herd to Moravia!" "Yes," said the overseer. "Just because In the meantime the veterinary had examined every beast separately, and had made out a certificate for each. Then the taligÁs marked the buyer's initials in vermilion on their hides—for all the herdsmen can write. The clattering hoofs of the horse which carried the cowboy could now be heard. His sleepiness had vanished with the sharp ride, and the morning air had cleared his head. He sprang smartly from the saddle, at some distance from the corral, and came up leading his horse by the bridle. "You rag-tag and bobtail!" called out the overseer from the front of the enclosure. "Where the devil have you been?" "Where were you? by Pontius Pilate's copper angel! Coming an hour behind the gentry you should have brought with you. Eh, scoundrel?" Still the lad was silent, fiddled with the horse, and hung saddle and bridle on the rack. The overseer's face grew purple. He screamed the louder, "Will you answer me, or shall I have to bore a hole in your ears?" Then the cowboy spoke. "You know, master, that I am deaf and dumb." "Damn the day you were born!" cried the overseer. "Do you think I invented that story that you should mock me? Don't you see the sun is up?" "Well, is it my fault that the sun is up?" The others began to laugh, while the overseer's wrath increased. "I'll be there too, you bet!" "Indeed you won't, rascal," exclaimed the overseer, who himself could not help laughing. "There! talk to him in German any of you who can!" The manager of the stables thereupon thought he might have a talk with the herdsman in German. "You're a fine strong fellow!" he said, "I wonder they didn't make an Hussar of you. Why did they not enlist you? What defect could they find?" The cowboy made a wry grimace, for peasant lads do not much care for those sort of questions. "I think they did not take me for a soldier," he answered, "because there are two holes in my nose." "There, you see, he can't talk sense!" exclaimed the overseer. "Clear out, you betyÁr, to the watering—not there! What did I tell you? Are you tipsy? Can't you It takes a man, and no mere stripling, to take a bull out of the herd, and this Ferko Lacza was a master of the art. With sweet words and caresses, such as he might use to a pet lamb, he coaxed out the beast which belonged to Mr. SajgatÓ, and led him in front of the gentlemen. A splendid animal he was too; massive head, sharp horns, and great black-ringed eyes. There he stood, allowing the cowboy to scratch his shaggy forehead, and licking his hand with his rough, rasping tongue. "And the beast has only seen the third grass," said its owner. The herdsmen reckon the age of their cattle according to the grass, that is the summers they have lived through. Meanwhile the painter did not let slip the opportunity of making a sketch of the great horned beast and its companion. "The cowboy must stand just like that with his hand on the horns." The lad, however, was not used to posing, and it injured his dignity. "Tell me," asked the painter—the others were inspecting the cows—"is it true that you herdsmen can cheat about your cattle at the market?" "Why, yes. The master has this very moment taken in the gentleman with the bull. He made it out to be three years old, and see, there is not an eye tooth left in its head!" He opened the animal's mouth as he spoke to prove the fact of the deception. The painter's sense of honour was even keener than his passion for art. He immediately stopped painting. "I have finished," he said, and hastily closing his sketch-book, he departed in search of his friends, who were standing among the chosen cattle in the enclosure. Then he revealed the great secret. The manager of the stables was horror-struck. Opening the mouths of two or three cows, he called out: "Look here, overseer! You warned us that cattle sellers like to 'green' their The overseer stroked his moustache, and answered with a broad grin, "Yes, I know that joke; it came out in last year's calendar. The General who was cheated in the Franco-Prussian War through not knowing that cattle have no eye teeth." "Haven't they?" asked the manager in surprise, and when the doctor assured him that it was so, he said petulantly, "Well, how should I know about a cow's mouth? I am no cattle dentist. All my work has lain among horses!" But he must needs vent his anger on somebody, so he flew upon the painter for having led him into such a trap. "How could you?" he demanded. The painter, however, was too much of a gentleman to betray the cowboy, who had first taken him in. At last the taligÁs put an end to the dispute by respectfully announcing that breakfast was waiting. The taligÁs is cook on the puszta. All this time he had been preparing the herdsman's breakfast of "tesztÁs kÁsa," or meal Then the taligÁs took the pot, rinsed it, filled it with water, and hung it over the fire. The gulyÁs stew would be ready when the gentlemen returned from their walk. They would then taste something really good! Ferko Lacza showed the company round, pointing out to the strangers all the sights of the puszta, such as the wind shelter and the railed-in burying place for cattle. "In the good old days," he explained, The painter looked the cowboy hard in the face, then turned to his master. "Does this worthy herdsman of yours ever happen to speak the truth, overseer?" "Very rarely, but this time he has, for once in his life." "Then thank you very much for your delightful gulyÁs." "Oh don't be alarmed!" said the overseer, "there's nothing bad about it. Since God laid out the flat HortobÁgy, that has always been the custom. Look at those lads, can The manager, however, listening to this revelation, strictly forbade his Moravian drovers to touch the dish. "Though who knows," said the painter, "whether the old humbug has not invented the whole story to scare us from the feast, and then have a good laugh at us!" "We'll see," rejoined his comrade, "whether the vet eats it or not, for he must know all about it." And now came the mirage, that seems like the realisation of a fairy dream. Along the horizon lay a quivering sea, where high waves chased each other from east to west, the real hills standing out as little islands in their midst, and the stumpy acacias magnified into vast forests. Oxen, grazing in the distance, were transformed into a street of palaces. Boats which appeared to cross the ocean turned out on reaching the shore to be nothing but some far off horses. The fantastic deception is "Let the Germans copy this," exclaimed Mr. SajgatÓ to the admiring group, while the painter tore his hair in despair. "Why am I compelled to see things I can't put on canvas? What is this?" "Why the mirage," said the overseer. "And what is the mirage?" "The mirage is the mirage of the HortobÁgy." But Ferko Lacza knew more than his master. "The mirage is God's miracle," he told them, "sent to keep us poor herdsmen from growing weary of the long day on the puszta." Finally the painter turned to the doctor for an explanation. "I know even less," said he. "I have read Flammarion's book It did the doctor good to pour out the bitterness of his heart before the strangers, but he had no time to admire the marvels of nature, being obliged to hurry back to his animal hospital and pharmacy at Mata. So, bidding adieu to both his old and new friends, he jumped into his gig, and jogged away over the plain. The herd was already scattered far out on the puszta, the cowboys driving it forward. The grass near at hand is more luscious, but in spring the cattle graze far afield, so that when summer scorches the distant pastures, the nearer still remain for them. Very touching was the farewell between the main herd and their companions in the enclosure—like a chorus of Druids and Valkyre. "Sir, I have been plundered and deceived during the course of my existence, but never by robbers or rogues. They were always 'honourable gentlemen,' who knew how to thieve and cheat!" The overseer likewise received his fee. "If," said the old herdsman, "I might—out of pure friendliness—give you a word of advice, I would recommend you, as you have bought the cows, to take the calves as well." "What, we don't want a crowd of noisy brutes! Why should we take carts for them?" "They will go on their own feet." "Yes, and hinder us at every step, by "Of course that is quite another thing," said the overseer. There now remained nothing else to do but to start the new bought herd. The manager gave the herdsman his credentials, and the chief constable handed him his pass. These documents, together with the cattle certificates, he put into his bag. Then he tied the bell round the bull's neck, knotted his cloak round its horns, and bidding everyone good day, sprang into the saddle. The overseer brought him his knapsack, filled with bacon, bread, and garlic, enough for the week that they would take to reach Miskolcz. Then he described the whole route to him. How they must first go by PolgÁr, because of the mud at Csege, caused by the spring rains, and sleep on the way in the little wood. They would cross the Theiss by the ferry-boat, but should the water be high, it would be Then he impressed on his godson the necessity of so behaving in a foreign country that Debreczin need never blush for him. "He must obey his employers, hold his high spirits in check, never forget Hungarian, nor abandon his faith, but keep all the Church feasts, and not squander his earnings. If he married he must take care of his wife, and give his children Hungarian names, and when he had time he might write a line to his godfather, who would willingly pay the postage." Then, with a godfather's blessing, he left the young fellow to set out on his journey. Now the two Moravian drovers had undertaken the task of driving the herd, when free from the enclosure, in the desired direction, but naturally the beasts, as soon as they were set at liberty, rushed about on all sides, and when the drovers attempted to force them, turned, and prepared to run at them. Then they again made for the corral and their calves. "Go and help those poor Christians!" said the overseer to the herdsman. "The devil take your whip," growled the overseer; "do you want them to run to the four ends of the earth? These are no horses!" "I said they ought to be tied together in pairs by their horns," cried the manager. "All right, just leave it to me." With that the cowherd whistled, and a little sheep-dog jumped from the karÁm, and barking loudly, scampered after the disordered herd, dashed round the scattered animals, snapped at the heels of the lazy ones, and in less than two minutes had brought the whole drove into a well-ordered military file, marching behind the bull with the bell. Then the cowherd also bounded after them, crying "Hi, Rosa! CsÁko! Kese!" He knew the name of everyone of the twenty-four, and they obeyed. As for the bull, it was called "BÜszke"—"Proud one." Thus, under this leadership, the herd moved quietly off over the wide plain. For long the gentlemen gazed after it, The painter sank back on the grass, his arms and legs extended. "Well, if I tell this at the Art Club in Vienna, they will kick me out at the door." "A bad sign," said Mr. SajgatÓ, shaking his head. "It's well the money is in my pocket." "Yes, the cattle are not home yet," muttered the overseer. "What I wonder at," observed the manager, "is why some enterprising individual has not taken the whole show on lease." "Ah!" said Mr. SajgatÓ with proud stolidity. "No doubt they would take it to Vienna if they could. But Debreczin won't give it up." |