  Now that you have practiced using the sewing machine, you are ready to make a scarf, slippers, or sewing kit. Make a scarfWearing a scarf This scarf may be made larger than the measurements suggested but it will require more fabric. Using these measurements, a square of cloth can be cut into four scarves. It will be more economical to cut a scarf this way if four in your club use the same colored fabric. Plan to have your scarf match or look nice with your skirt. For a double scarf, have one side the same as your skirt fabric and one a plain or contrasting color. A single scarf may either match your skirt or be a contrasting color. Double scarfScarf Pattern Cut two triangles of fabric— 1—plain 1—contrast Pin right sides together and sew a ½-inch seam around edge. Start sewing 6 inches from center of scarf. Stitch around scarf and stop 3 inches before reaching starting point (see diagram). The opening is for turning your scarf. Scarf seam Press the seams open. Then trim the seams until they are ¼-inch wide. Trim off corners. Turn your scarf and press. Hemmed scarf Baste a slot for headband, 14 inches long and ¾ inch wide. Sew across one end. Turn and stitch along basting threads. Turn and stitch across other end. See diagram. Scarf and headband Sew (by hand) 2 inches of opening, leaving 1 inch open to insert head band. Insert head band and your scarf is finished. Single scarfCut one triangle of fabric. Scarf pattern Press ¼-inch hem on both 25-inch sides of scarf. Press ¾-inch hem on long edge of scarf. Hemmed scarf Trim off end of hem on dotted lines. Turn ends under even with side hems. Press. Folds in cloth Miter corner on point of scarf according to directions under sewing kit. Mitered corners Refold the scarf on folds for hem. You now have a mitered corner. Stitched scarf Stitch around your scarf. Start stitching 6 inches from center on 35-inch side. Stitch all around scarf. Stop 1 inch from where you started to stitch. Turn and stitch to folded edge of hem. Stitch across hem 7 inches from center of scarf to make other end of slot to hold head band. Finish two top corners by hand. Trim off peak (x) to edge of hem. Insert head band and your scarf is finished. Make a sewing kitSewing kit pattern This kit can be used to roll your sewing in and to cover your work table to protect your fabric while you are sewing. Hems Use a 36-inch square of muslin. Make a ¼-inch hem on all sides. To make the hem, turn the edge of the fabric over ¼ inch and press. Turn this over once again and press. Pin or baste around the hem. Pressing eliminates many hours of basting. Miter the corners. Open the corners and fold along diagonal dotted line as shown in the diagram. Refold the hem and press. Start to stitch in the center of one side and continue to stitch all around the square. Stitch as near the edge of the hem as possible. Remove your sewing kit from the machine when you finish stitching and tie ends of the threads. Pull out the basting and press your sewing kit. Trim off the extra fabric in each corner. Place an 8 x 12-inch pocket in the center of this square to hold your pattern and sewing equipment. See “Pockets,” page 12. Make TV or lounging slippersSlippers Materials needed: 2 washcloths thread to match 2 10-inch pieces of ¼-inch elastic wool yarn for pompons or flat buttons 1. Fold each cloth in half. If there is a design on two sides, fold the cloth so the design is at the top. Stitch 4 inches from folded edge for top. Make a ¼-inch seam. Folded sewing kit Stitch from fold to edge of cloth for heel on other end of washcloth. Stand on a ruler and measure length of your foot. Add 1½ inches to this length to get the size needed for your slipper. Example: foot—9 inches, plus 1½ inches equal 10½ inches. Your seam will be at this point. Most washcloths are 12 inches square. You would have a heel seam 1½ inches wide. 2. Turn seams to inside. Open the heel seam. 3. Fold the edges over 2 inches to the outside of the slipper. Pin or paste in place. Stitch ½ inch from folded edge to make a casing for the elastic. Tie or back tack ends of thread. Casing for elastic 4. Thread elastic through casing. Use medium-size safety pin. Pin to one end of elastic and thread elastic through casing. Start at opening of front toe. Pull both ends so they extend out from slipper. Overlap ends ½ inch and sew them together. Threading elastic Pull on heel and toe seam and the slippers will cover the elastic. Trim your slippers with pompons or buttons. Making pompons 5. To make the pompons, use a four-tined table fork. Cut a piece of yarn about 6 inches long and place through the center tine of the fork. Bring both ends down and hold next to the handle. Now wrap the yarn around the tines, either weave it in and out of the tines or wrap smoothly around. When the tines are completely covered, bring the two ends which you are holding with the handle up around the other yarn and tie a knot, at the same time slipping the yarn from the fork. Tie securely. Clip through looped ends and fluff into a ball. Sew pompons to center front of slipper to cover opening for elastic. You may use buttons to trim your slippers instead of the pompons. Select flat buttons that can be washed. Use one average or large button or three small ones on each toe. (See “How to sew on a button,” page 2.) Select yarn or buttons that will look nice on your slippers. They may be the same color as the slippers or another color that will look good on them. Try several colors. Medium colored buttons rather than black or other dark colors look best on pale colored slippers. Make your apron or skirtAprons and skirt Aprons and skirts are fun and easy to make. This will probably be the first apron or skirt you have ever made all by yourself. Your leader will show you how to make it, step by step. Follow her instructions and you will learn to sew in no time at all. Learn to do each step right the first time. Choose one that you would like to make1. Peasant-type skirt 2. Peasant apron with straight band 3. Peasant apron with elastic top Plan to have one or two pockets on your apron or skirt. Peasant apron with bandYou will need to buy:
Apron pattern
Measure and cut your apronMark the apron according to the diagram.
Measure and mark off these pieces with chalk or pins before cutting. Cut with long, even strokes. Make your sashesFold the right sides of each sash together. Place pins across the stitching lines as shown in the diagram. Make a ¼-inch seam along the side and end of the sash. Backstitch for two or three stitches to make the end of your thread secure. Trim off the corner. Check the stitch on your machine. Be sure it looks the same on both sides of the fabric. Stitched sash Press the seam open and turn the sash. Use the end of a table knife or ruler for turning. Press the sash flat, keeping the seam at the edge. Make the corners square. If you prefer to hem the sash, make a ¼-inch hem, miter the corners. See instructions on scarf, pages 7 and 8. Press and stitch hemsSide hems1. Make a ¼-inch hem on each side of the apron. To make a hem, press a ¼-inch fold on the side edges of your apron (20-inch sides). Press with your fingers, then with the iron. First turn 2. Fold edge over again ¼ inch and press. Stitch along edge of hem. This completes the hem. Selvage edge—If the selvage is used, clip only the very edge of it every 2 or 3 inches. This prevents puckering when it is laundered. Fold the edge over ¼ inch, press and stitch. A double hem is not needed. Bottom hemMake a 3-inch hem on the bottom of your apron. Measure and turn ¼-inch fold at bottom of apron. Press. From this edge measure 3 inches, fold, and press. Pin and stitch the hems. Use matching thread. Stitch as near as you can to the edge of the hem. Backstitch on both ends of hem. Gather the top edgeDivide the top edge of your skirt into four equal parts. Set your cloth guide for a ¼-inch seam. Lengthen your stitch to make the largest stitch possible. Make three rows of stitching along the top of the apron, placing rows ¼ inch apart. Place the first row ¼ inch from the edge. Be sure to follow the guide. Gathered top edge Make your apron bandYour apron band is made the same way as a skirt band, only the proportions are different. Turn to page 14 for illustrations. 1. Press a ½-inch fold along one side of your 18-inch band. Divide the band, lengthwise into three equal parts. This gives three 2-inch sections. Make the section with the ½-inch fold slightly shorter than the other two sections. Place a damp press cloth over the folded band and press sharp creases along the folds. 2. The section with the ½-inch fold is the front of your band. The double part is the back. Stitch criss-cross through the back part of the band. You can stitch straighter if you make a guide or pattern. Cut a strip of waxed paper the length and width of your band, 18 x 2 inches. Fold in four equal sections. Then fold it diagonally. Then diagonally again. Open the paper and pin it to the band and follow the creases in the paper. This will give practice on starting and stopping the machine and on turning corners. Tear the paper away after the stitching is completed. Apron band 3. Pin and sew the end of the sashes to the end of the band. Fold the band right sides together, and stitch across ends. Do not sew the ½-inch fold at bottom of band into the seam. Apron band Stitch both sides. Turn and press along the original crease. Band on apron Sew apron to bandBe sure the edges of the band and apron are marked in four equal parts. Place the right side of the apron to the right side of the band. Match the quarter marks and pin. Place the hemmed ends of the apron at the seam ends of the band. Ease in the fullness in the apron until it fits the band. Pull all bobbin threads from each end at the same time. Pull gently so you do not break the threads. Spread the gathers so they are even and pin. Baste along the second row of gathering and the crease in the band. Machine stitch along the bastings. Press. Pin so back edge of band is ? inch longer than edge of front of band. Top stitch along front edge of band. This finishes your band. Be sure to press the band before you stitch. It will make stitching easier. Add your pocketsPockets are for both use and decoration. Make patch pockets that are securely stitched and have no raw edges at the top. Press the side and bottom hems of the pocket first. Then fold the top hem over and stitch in place. Study the most convenient location for your pocket. Baste it in place. Check to see that it is even. Reinforce the top of the pocket with double stitching, as shown in the drawing. Stitching is ¼ inch apart. Pockets Remove gathering stitches and press your apron. Finished apron Peasant apron with elastic topYou will need to buy
Measure and cut your apronCut your apron 20 x 31 inches. This will fit a girl of size 10 to 12. Make this longer than 20 inches if you are tall. Cut two sashes 26 x 5 inches. Cut two pockets 5 x 5 inches. Make sashes and hems the same as for peasant apron with band, page 10. Apron pattern
Make the side hems ¼ inch wide and the top and bottom hems 2 inches wide. Gather the top1. Make a heading or hem at the top of your apron. From the top edge of the apron, measure down ¾ inch and mark with pins or chalk. Start stitching at upper corner and slope to ¾-inch line. Stitch across the apron and slope up to the corner. 2. Stitch one sash to end of ½-inch elastic. Thread elastic through heading. Then stitch other sash to end of elastic. Pull ends of sashes into heading of apron. Elastic hem 3. Finish ends of bottom hem with a slip or blind stitch. The slip stitch is used on a hem with a folded edge. Fasten the knotted thread in the fold of the hem. Slip the needle through the fold for about ½ inch. Pick up one thread in the skirt or, if the fabric permits, split a thread with the needle. This thread should lie at right angles to the hem edge. Slip the needle back into the fold of the fabric, and continue hemming. Stitches are almost as invisible on the wrong side as the right side of the skirt. SLIP STITCH Gathered skirtSelect fabric that is colorful and gay for your skirt. Closely woven cloth will be easy to sew and will hold a sharp crease. You will need from 3 to 3½ yards of fabric for your skirt. The more fabric you try to gather in your skirt the harder it will be to make. For the girl of average height cut your skirt as follows: How to cut your skirtCut or tear a 6½-inch strip from one side of your skirt fabric. Measure in from the selvage edge. Use this for the skirt band and pockets. There will be some left over. Tear off the selvage edge from the large piece. Skirt pattern
You may have to cut the band from the end of your fabric instead of the side if you are tall and need the extra length. The above method of cutting gives you one seam on the placket side. Sometimes the design in the fabric will be more attractive if the skirt is cut in several lengths. When this is necessary, you will have three or four seams in your skirt. This may make a difference in the amount of fabric you will need, so decide how you will cut your skirt before buying your fabric. Make your skirtPin the short edges together to make the side seam. Make the seam 1¼ inches wide. It is to be used for the placket. When finished, the placket will be on the left side. Stitch the side seam. Stitch the seam from the bottom up. At a point 5 inches from the top, turn and stitch half way across the seam. Turn both edges of the seam toward the front section and press. Stitched seam Trim the seams. Start at the bottom of the wide seam and trim it to ? inch wide up to the placket. Do not trim above this point. Trimmed seam Finish the placket1. Baste and stitch a ½-inch hem on the back edge of the placket. Hem on placket 2. Fold the front edge of the placket even with seam line. Press. Now fold again to make a complete hem. Baste. Pinned placket Pin placket together. Stitch from the top to the bottom of the placket, turn and stitch across the end of first stitching. Pull threads through and tie ends. This is a strong, easy-to-make placket. Stitched placket Hem the skirtSkirts look best with hand-stitched hems. Make the hem before placing the band on the skirt. Unless you have poor posture, it will hang even. Decide how long you would like your finished skirt to be. Be careful not to make it too short. Measure from the top edge to the length you would like the skirt to be and press in the hem. Turn the top edge of the hem under ½ inch. Your skirt will be prettier if you make a wide hem—3 inches or wider. When the hem has been carefully pressed, stitch ? inch from the fold of the top edge of the hem, to keep the fold in place. Pin hem in place. Ask your leader to show you a hand hemming stitch. Place gathering threads at top of skirtMake a long stitch on your machine. Use size 50 top thread and heavy duty for bobbin thread. Using the guide on your machine, stitch around the top of your skirt ¼ inch from the edge. Make two more rows ¼ inch apart. You are now ready to make your skirt band. Gathering treads Make the skirt band1. Measure your waist. Add 2½ inches. This will give you the length needed for your skirt band. Cut your band 6½ inches wide. 2. Press a ½-inch fold along one side of your band. From the folded edge divide the rest into three sections. This gives three 2-inch sections. Make the section with the ½-inch fold slightly shorter than the other two sections. Press. 3. The section with the ½-inch fold is the front of your band. Stitch criss-cross through the back part of the band. You can stitch straighter if you make a guide or pattern. Cut a strip of waxed paper the length and width of your band, 24 x 2 inches. Cross-stitched band Fold it in six equal sections. Then fold it diagonally. Then diagonally again. Open the paper and pin it to the band and follow the creases in the paper. This will give practice on starting and stopping the machine and on turning corners. Tear the paper away after the stitching is completed. Folded paper for band 4. Stitch a ½-inch seam at the ends of the band. Turn and press. Do not sew the ½-inch fold at the bottom of band into the seam. Gather in fullnessDivide both your skirt and the skirt band into eight equal parts to help you make the gathers even in your skirt. Do not include the placket or 1-inch overlap at the end of the band. Mark with colored threads. Mark the skirt band so the extension or extra length will be on the back of the placket. The front of band will be even with the front edge of the placket. Pin and stitch band to skirt. Pin the pieces together, right side of skirt to right side of band. Match dividing marks that you have made. Gently pull on the gathering threads at the side seams, the center front, and the center back. Pull the threads until they are the same length as the band. Work with the gathers until they are even. Baste and stitch along ½-inch fold on the skirt band. Top stitch the bandFold the double section of your band toward the back and baste the edge of the band to the skirt. Baste it so the folded edge hangs just below the stitching you just made on the front side of the band. Machine stitch from the front side of the band. Place the stitching as near the edge of the band as you can. Press before you stitch. It will flatten the seam and make stitching easier. Press your skirtPress your skirt. Use a dampened cheese-cloth and an iron set for ironing cotton, or use a steam iron. A skirt must be well pressed and fresh looking to be pretty. Pressed skirt Fastenings for the skirtFastenings Study the drawing above. It shows the placing for fasteners on your skirt. Sewing them in this position will keep the placket from gaping. Sew a snap fastener in the center of the placket if it is needed to keep it closed. Do not try to set in a zipper. Use hooks and eyes or buttons for fastening this band. Buttons and buttonholes—When buttons and buttonholes are used, make the buttonhole lengthwise of the band. Place it far enough from the end of the band so there will be at least ¼ inch beyond the button when it is sewed in place. Measure half the distance across your button and add ¼ inch for this measurement. Learn to use the machine attachment for making buttonholes. They are stronger and easier for you to make than hand-made buttonholes. Have your leader, mother, or a neighbor set it up for you and show you how to use it. After you have made a few sample buttonholes, make some in your apron or on your skirt. If you have a machine with a zig-zag stitch, learn to make buttonholes on it. Pin the band together and mark place for buttons. See page 2 for instructions for sewing on buttons. Sew fasteners to skirt bandSnaps—Examine the snap fasteners. One part has a ball on top. This is placed on the front part or top of your placket. The other part has a hole or socket and is placed on the back or under part of the placket. Place them exactly opposite each other on your placket. Sew the top snap on first. Mark the placing of the bottom part of the snaps by rubbing chalk on the ball and then pinning placket together. Press ball against fabric. The chalk will rub off and mark the exact spot to sew the under part of the snap. Snap fasteners Sew snap fasteners on with several over-and-over stitches. Be sure to hide your knot under the snap. Sew securely through all four holes. When you cross from one hole to the other, take a stitch in the cloth and bring your needle up from the under side to the next hole. Hooks and eyes—Each package of hooks and eyes, has two types of eyes, a round and a straight. Use the round eye for your skirt. Sew the hook on the inside edge of the top part of your band. (You will need two.) Sew these with several over-and-over stitches. Hooks and eyes Sew several stitches through the hook end. Pin the placket in place and place the round eye directly under the hook. Sew with several over-and-over stitches. Press all the things you have made. Pressing will improve their appearance. Make sure they are clean. Have each member of your club judge what you have made and then make the corrections they suggest. How does your apron or skirt look to you?Once again, score your own and other club members’ work. These are the points to use in judging:
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