FOOTNOTES:

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1 Chapter viii of volume ii of the original London edition.—Ed.

2 It is well known that water, in which carbonic acid is dissolved, has the power of holding in solution a portion of lime, somewhat proportioned in quantity to the acid. In this instance, the water no sooner comes in contact with the atmosphere than it parts with a portion of its fixed air, consequently loses the power of holding in solution the lime which is immediately deposited. The lime may perhaps, in this instance, be derived from the cement of the sand-rock.—James.

3 The "boiling spring" is the site of Manitou Springs, now a famous watering place, from which millions of bottles of the water are annually shipped. Carbonate of lime composes nine-tenths of the mineral matter in solution. From this point the cogwheel railroad ascends Pike's Peak.—Ed.

4 Pinus flexilis. N. S.—James.

5 It is related in Du Pratz's History of Louisiana, p. 71, that in the year 1724, a large tribe of Indians, called Padoucas, resided in several villages on the heads of the Konzas river; that they removed thence to the sources of the Platte: here they are said still to exist. See Brackenridge's Views, p. 147. Lewis and Clarke's Map, &c. But these accounts need confirmation.—James.

Comment by Ed. See volume xiv, note 179.

6 There is some uncertainty as to the peak which Pike ascended. Dr. Elliott Coues thinks he reached high ground between Mount Rosa and Cheyenne Mountain, approaching from the south. See Pike's Expeditions, pp. 454, 455, notes 46, 47. These peaks are eight or ten miles southeast of Pike's.—Ed.

7 Notes referring particularly to this grasshopper, and to many other insects, and many other animals, collected on the Platte and about the mountains, were subsequently lost in the robbery committed by three of the soldiers, who deserted from the party in the country of the Osages. It is on this account that the name of the insect alluded to cannot be given, as it is now impossible to identify the specimen.—James.

8 As late as 1870 the Indians continued to make offerings to the manitou of the springs. There is an Indian legend which accounts for the effervescence and taste of the water as follows: Two hunters having come to the springs, the less successful, in envious anger, seized his rival while drinking, and held his head beneath the water until he expired. Thereupon a vapor arose, and there appeared a spirit who struck the murderer with his war club, dashing his brains into the spring and rendering the waters bitter.—Ed.

9 The Colorado Midland now ascends Fountain Creek, east and north of the peak, approximating the line of this bison path. The stage road to the peak also ascends this caÑon about four miles to Cascade, where it turns west, going around the northern and northwestern slope of the mountain.—Ed.

10 Boiling Spring (now Fountain) Creek unites with Monument Creek (see preceding volume, note 146) at Colorado Springs, to form Fountain River. The map does not show Boiling Spring Creek, but applies the name to Fountain River and its other branch, Monument Creek, to which it gives an exaggerated length. Fountain River was called La RiviÈre de la Fontaine qui Bouille (River of the Boiling Spring), from the Manitou springs already described; the French name, in various forms, has generally been preferred to the English. FrÉmont calls the stream, in more correct French, "Fontaine-qui-bouit," and "Fontaine River" is still sometimes used. The city of Pueblo is situated at its confluence with the Arkansas; Pike called this confluence "grand forks."—Ed.

11 Lieutenant Swift's trigonometrical measurement of the elevation of Pike's Peak was quite accurate. If to his calculation of 8,507½ feet above the plain the correct elevation of the latter be added, the sum is within a few feet of the now accepted height; but, as in Pike's measurement, the result was invalidated by an erroneous estimate of the height of the plain (3,000 feet instead of about 5,700). The latitude and longitude as calculated for this camp afford another instance showing the error in the observations made by the expedition. The correct figures for Colorado Springs are 38° 49' 41.67 north latitude, and 104° 49' 15.10 longitude west of Greenwich.—Ed.

12 Giovanni Ignazio Molina was born in Chili, of Italian parents, in 1740. When the Jesuits were expelled from that country (1767) he joined their order and went to Italy, where he became a priest and teacher. His Compendio di Storia geografica naturale e civile del Chili (Bologna, 1776) was translated into the principal European languages, and an American edition was published under the title Geographical, Natural, and Civil History of Chili (Middletown, Connecticut, 2 vols., 1808).

Louis Jean Pierre Vieillot was a French zoÖlogist and author of voluminous works on ornithology. Among his writings was Histoire naturelle des oiseaux de l'AmÉrique septentrionale, depuis Saint-Dominigue jusqu' À la baie d'Hudson (Paris, 1807 and annually thereafter).—Ed.

13 Pike wrote in his journal: "Nov. 24th [1806]. Early in the morning we cut down 14 logs, and put up a breast work, five feet high on three sides and the other thrown on the river" (see Coues, Pike's Expeditions, p. 452). The structure stood on the south side of the Arkansas, a little above where the mouth of Fountain River was at that time; but the exact spot cannot be identified, as the course of the river has since changed considerably. Long's party looked for it, however, in an entirely wrong place. Their course southwest from the camp on Fountain River brought them to the Arkansas several miles above its mouth (near Turkey Creek); besides which, they were on the wrong side for Pike's old redoubt.—Ed.

14 The point here reached by Bell's party is the site of CaÑon City, Fremont County, at the lower end of the Grand CaÑon of the Arkansas, better known as the Royal Gorge, through which now passes the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad. The railroad engineers triumphed over the obstacles which to our party seemed to render the caÑon almost impassable, by lowering tools, materials, provisions, mules, and men into the chasm by ropes attached to the overhanging cliffs. In one place it was found necessary, for want of a road-bed in the narrow gorge, to suspend the track by bridgework anchored to the mountain side.

Pike's route from CaÑon City to the upper Arkansas and back has been much discussed; however, he did not go through the Royal Gorge. Dr. Coues thinks that he went north from CaÑon City, up Oil Creek, crossing the dividing ridge at its source and passing into South Park, to the South Platte River. Thence he crossed South Park to the westward, and penetrated the Park Range to the upper Arkansas, which he explored, mistaking it for Red River. Descending the river, the party scattered near the upper end of Royal Gorge, and passed around it by various routes through the mountains. Pike himself essayed the passage of the caÑon on the frozen river, but was compelled to abandon the channel when about half-way through it. The party reached the site of CaÑon City, which it had left December 10, 1806, on January 5, 1807. See Coues, Pike's Expeditions, pp. 464-478.—Ed.

15 "From information derived from the Indians and hunters who have frequently visited this part of the country, as also from the account given by Pike, relative to this peak, it appears that no person, either civilized or savage, has ever ascended to its summit, and that the ascent was deemed utterly impracticable. Dr. James having accomplished this difficult and laborious task, I have thought proper to call the peak after his name, as a compliment to which his zeal and perseverance, together with the skilful attention with which he has examined its character and productions, give him the fairest claim. Pike has indeed given us notice that there is such a peak, but he only saw it at a distance; the unfavourable circumstances under which he came into its neighbourhood preventing his arrival even at its base. He attempted to ascertain its altitude, but it is believed his estimate is very erroneous." Ext. from Maj. Long's MS. Notes of July 15th, 1820.—James.

Comment by Ed. Height of Pike's Peak generally accepted as correct, 14,147 feet; Pike's estimate, 18,581. See ante, note 11. Pike wrote in his journal: "I believe no human being could have ascended to its pinical;" but it must be borne in mind that he reached the region late in November, when the difficulty of the ascent is immensely greater than at the season (July) when James's party made their successful attempt. The claim of Dr. James to the honor of being the first to reach the summit remains undisputed; but the peak has long since ceased to bear his name. When FrÉmont visited Colorado in 1843 he adopted the present appellation, which he found in local use among the traders, and the rival name soon fell into disuse by cartographers.

16 Jean Louis Leclerc Buffon (1707-88), was keeper of the Royal Gardens and Museum in Paris, and compiler of a large portion of the forty-volume work entitled Histoire Naturelle, GÉnÉrale et ParticuliÈre (Paris, 1749-1804), which was completed, after his death, by LacÉpÈde (see post, note 26). Buffon is noteworthy for having anticipated the theory of evolution.—Ed.

17 Genus Sciurus, L.—S. quadrivittatus, Say.—Head brownish intermixed with fulvous, and with four white lines, of which the superior one on each side passes from the tip of the nose immediately over the eye to the superior base of the ear; and the inferior one passes immediately beneath the eye to the inferior base of the ear; ears moderate, semi-oval, incisores reddish-yellow; back with four broad lines, and alternate mixed black and ferruginous ones; sides fulvous, beneath whitish; tail moderate, hair black at base, then fulvous black in the middle, and paler fulvous at tip; beneath fulvous with a submarginal black line; thumb of the anterior feet a prominent tubercle.

Length from the nose to the base of the tail
inches.
——— of the tail
3
——— of the hair at the tip of the tail
1 nearly.

James.

18 Genus Sciurus, L.—S. lateralis, Say.—Above brownish cinereous intermixed with blackish; on each side of the back a dull yellowish-white dilated line, broader before, margined above and beneath with black, originating upon the neck anterior to the humerus, and not attaining the origin of the tail; no appearance of a vertebral line; thigh, neck anterior to the tip of the white line, and top of the head tinged with ferruginous; orbits whitish; tail short, thin, with a submarginal black line beneath; nails of the anterior feet elongated: thumb tubercle furnished with a broad nail; sides dull yellowish-white; beneath pale, intermixed with blackish.—James.

19 Étienne Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire (1772-1844) began the collection of animals for the Jardin des Plantes, and after 1794 was the collaborator of Cuvier. He was a prolific writer, and previous to Long's expedition had prepared a Catalogue des MammifÈres du MusÉum national d'Histoire naturelle (1813).—Ed.

20 Hirundo lunifrons, Say.—Above brownish-black, more or less varied with violaceous on the back and wing-coverts; top of the head exclusively blackish-violaceous, a large white frontal lunule; bill black; rump and tail coverts pale ferruginous; chin, throat, and neck beneath, dark ferruginous extending in a narrow band upon the hind head; breast pale rufous ash; axillÆ and inferior wing coverts dirty brownish; shoulders dull whitish, with small black and pale ferruginous spots; belly and vent flanks white, obsoletely dashed with brown; inferior tail coverts dusky, margined with white; tail entire, not surpassing the tips of the wings, the exterior feather margined with white on the inner web; wing and tail-shafts brown above, white beneath; the tail feathers in some lights have a slightly-banded appearance. Length 5½ inches.—James.

21 Genus Coluber.—C. testaceus, Say.—Pale sanguineous, or testaceous above, beneath sanguineous immaculate. Pl. 198. Sc. 80?

This is a large species equal in size to the C. constrictor. It moves with great rapidity, and in general form and size it resembles C. constrictor. The scales are large. A specimen is in the Philadelphia Museum.—James.

22 Emberiza amoena, Say.—Head and neck bluish green; back brownish black more or less intermixed with blue and a little brown ferruginous; rump pure blue; smaller wing coverts dull blue, brown at base, and tipped with white, forming a band; greater wing coverts blackish, tipped with white, forming a narrow band; wing and tail feathers blackish-brown with blue exterior margins; belly, inferior tail coverts and lower part of the breast white; superior portion of the breast pale ferruginous; neck bright green; bill and feet pale.—James.

23 Genus Crotalus, Lin.—C. confluentus, Say.—Brownish, varied with greenish-yellow, a triple series of brown spots, the anterior vertebral ones confluent, and the posterior ones separated into bands.

Body brownish cinereous, varied with greenish yellow; a triple series of fuscous spots; dorsal series consisting of about forty-four large transversely oblong oval spots, each widely emarginate before and behind, and, excepting the posterior ones, edged with greenish-white, the ten or twelve anterior ones, crowded and confluent, those of the thicker part of the body separate, those near the cloaca and upon the tail united with the spots of the lateral series, and forming bands; lateral series, spots rounded, opposite to those of the back; between the dorsal and lateral series is a series of obsolete, fuliginous spots, alternating with those of the two other series; head above scaly, scales of the superior orbits, and of the anterior margin, larger and striated; beneath yellowish-white, immaculate. Plates of the body 179; of the tail 27.—James.

24 Louis Augustin Guillaume Bosc (1759-1828) visited the United States in 1796; later he taught at the Versailles ZoÖlogical Garden. It is uncertain as to which particular work is here referred to.

FranÇois Marie Daudin, whose specialty was reptiles, wrote Histoire naturelle, gÉnÉrale et particuliÈre des Reptiles (Paris, 1802-04), which is probably the work cited.—Ed.

25 Genus Ameiva.—A. tessellata, Say. Tesselated lizard.—The back and sides of the body and neck are marked by nine or ten longitudinal lines, and eighteen or twenty transverse ones, dividing the whole surface in a tesselated manner, the interstitial quadrate spaces being black; these lines are light brown on the back, and assume a yellow tint on the sides; the scales of these portions of the body are very small, convex, and rounded; the top of the head is olivaceous, covered by plates arranged thus: 2 with an intermediate small one at their tips; 1, 2, 1, the largest, 2, and 3; superior orbits of the eyes with four plates, of which the two intermediate ones are much the largest; belly bluish white; throat and neck tinged with yellow, and covered with somewhat larger scales than those of the back; anterior feet yellowish within, and covered with minute scales; on the exterior and posterior sides greenish white with confluent black spots and large scales; posterior feet behind greenish white with confluent black spots and minute scales; the anterior side yellowish covered with large scales; pores of the thigh very distinct and prominent; tail elongated, rounded above, light brown, with a few lines of black spots near the base; beneath yellowish white immaculate, the scales carinated, and placed in transverse series. Total length 1 foot, tail 8½ inches.—James.

26 Bernard Germain Étienne de la Ville, Count de LacÉpÈde (1756-1825), became Buffon's assistant in the Jardin du Roi about 1784, and continued the Histoire naturelle after the latter's death. LacÉpÈde entered politics under Bonaparte, and was successively senator (1799), grand chancellor of the Legion of Honor (1803), and minister of state (1809). After the Restoration, he was made a peer.—Ed.

27 The distance travelled since leaving Royal Gorge indicates Beaver Creek, in eastern Fremont County, as probably the one here called Castle Rock Creek.—Ed.

28 Another name for the Nez PercÉs. See FranchÈre's Narrative, in our volume vi, note 145.—Ed.

29 This description of the two species of bears occurs under date of May 3, 1806. See Original Journals of Lewis and Clark Expedition, v, p. 65.—Ed.

30 On Lahontan see J. Long's Voyages, in our volume ii, note 3; also Lahontan, Voyages in North America (Thwaites, ed., Chicago, 1904).—Ed.

31 John Gottlieb Ernestus Heckewelder (1743-1823) was a Moravian evangelist to the Indians of Pennsylvania and Ohio, and later a United States Indian agent. He was a careful student of aboriginal speech and customs, especially those of the Delaware, and was the author of several works on these subjects. Previous to this time he had published: Account of the History, Manners, and Customs of the Indian Nations who once inhabited Pennsylvania and the Neighboring States (Philadelphia, 1818).—Ed.

32 Vid. Trans. of the New York Literary and Philosophical Society.—James.

Comment by Ed. New York, 1815, p. 19. De Witt Clinton (1769-1828), the great promoter of the Erie Canal, was governor of New York from 1817 until his death, with the exception of one two-year term, beginning in 1822. The address referred to was delivered May 4, 1814; he was at that time president of the Literary and Philosophical Society.

33 Grizzly bear (Ursus horribilis, Ord).—Hair long, short on the front, very short between and anterior to the eyes, blacker and coarser on the legs and feet, longer on the shoulders, throat, and behind the thighs, and beneath the belly, and paler on the snout; ears short, rounded; front arquated, the line of the profile continued upon the snout, without any indentation between the eyes; eyes very small, destitute of any remarkable supplemental lid; iris burnt sienna or light reddish brown; muffle of the nostrils black, the sinuses very distinct and profound; lips, particularly the superior one, anteriorly extensile, with a few rigid hairs or bristles; tail very short, concealed by the hair. The hair gradually diminishes in length upon the leg, but the upper part of the foot is still amply furnished; teeth, incisores six, the lateral one with a tubercle on the lateral side; canines large, robust, prominent; a single false molar behind the canine, remaining molares four, of which the anterior ones are very small, that of the upper jaw particularly, that of the lower jaw resembling the second false molar of the common dog; anterior feet, claws elongated, slender fingers, with five suboval naked tubercles separated from the palm, from each other, and from the base of the claws by dense hair; palm on the anterior, half naked, transversely oval; base of the palm with a rounded naked tubercle, surrounded by the hair; posterior feet with the sole naked, the nails moderate, more arquated, and shorter than the anterior ones.

The nails do not in the least diminish in width at the tip, but they become smaller towards that part only from diminishing from beneath.

"Testicles suspended in separate pouches, at the distance of from two to four inches from each other." Lewis and Clarke.

They vary exceedingly in colour, and pass through the intermediate gradations from a dark brown to a pale fulvous, and a grayish.

Dimensions (from the prepared Specimen).

ft. in.
Length from the tip of the nose to the origin of the tail 5 2
Trunk of the tail (exclusive of the hair at tip)
From anterior base of the ear to the tip of the nose 12
From anterior canthus of the eye to the tip of the nose 6
From orbit of the eye ¾
From between the eyes 4?
Ears from their superior base 3
Longest claw of anterior feet 4?
Shortest ditto
Longest claw of the hind feet 3
Shortest ditto
Hair at tip of tail
Length of the hair top of the head to 2
beneath the ears to3½
neck above—about 3
shoulders above
throat 4
Belly and behind the anterior legs—longest hairs 6
James.

34 Both the St. Charles (San Carlos) and its branch, the Greenhorn, rise in the Wet Mountains, far to the north of Spanish Peaks. The line between Pueblo and Huerfano counties follows this range for a few miles, as does also the line between the latter county and Custer. Thence the range trends northward through Custer County. Greenhorn Mountain is the southern peak of this chain. The Spanish Peaks are two isolated mountains on the southern line of Huerfano County.—Ed.

35 The stream to which James dedicates this fanciful etymology is the Huerfano (Orphan) River of the Spanish. "Wharf" is apparently a corrupted contraction. Booneville is opposite the mouth of this stream. The river rises on the slopes of the Sangre de Cristo range, in Huerfano Park, and flows east and northeast through the county of the same name. For the arrest of Chouteau's hunters, see preceding volume, note 134.—Ed.

36 Tyrannus verticalis, Say.—Head above pure pale plumbeous; vertex with a bright orange spot; back pale plumbeous, very slightly tinged with olivaceous; wings brown; tertials margined exteriorly with white; inner webs of the primaries towards the base whitish, narrowed at their tips, the first feather remarkably so; tail coverts and tail deep brown black; exterior web of the lateral tail feather white; a dusky line before the eye; chin whitish; neck beneath, colour of the head; breast, belly, and inferior tail coverts bright yellow; bill furnished with clusters above, and each side at base; superior mandible perfectly rectilinear above, from the base to near the tip, where it rather suddenly curves much downward. Total length 8 inches; bill from the anterior edge of the nostrils to tip 11/20 of an inch.—James.

37 There are no fewer than fifteen peaks within the state of Colorado which exceed Pike's Peak in altitude.—Ed.

38 The results of several sets of observations gave us the position of this encampment, 38° 12' 22 north latitude, and 103° 46' 15 west longitude from Greenwich, or 26° 46' 15 from Washington.—James.

39 Thomas Pennant (1726-98) was the author of British ZoÖlogy (London, 1766), History of Quadrupeds (1781), and other works on natural science. Those mentioned were held in high estimation, and passed through several editions.—Ed.

40 Pike's "First Fork" is Purgatory River, as given on the map (see post, note 47). Eighteen miles above the mouth of the Purgatory would fix the camp of July 21-23 near Timpas Creek, which flows northeast through Las Animas and Otero counties to the Arkansas, near the present town of La Junta. The camp was, however, probably several miles farther up the Arkansas, as the party had that morning passed the Huerfano, about sixty miles above the Purgatory, and had travelled twenty-six miles during the day.—Ed.

41 See volume xvii.—Ed.

42 R. Tagetes, James.—Hirsute stem much branched, somewhat grooved; radical leaves subentive, spatulate, linear, or pinnatified; cauline leaves interruptedly pinnatified; the divisions irregular in form and position, but usually linear branches alternate or scattered; peduncles grooved short, few-flowered terminal; ray florets [5/8] recurved red brown; disk dark brown, receptacle columnar, but proportionably much shorter than that of R. columnaris, to which species the one under consideration is allied. Plant about twelve inches high, growing in clusters, and having, by its numerous branches and finely divided leaves, a remote resemblance to anthemis cotula.—James.

43 This is a part of the Santa FÉ trail. The trail forked at Bent's Fort, between the Purgatory and Timpas Creek, one branch ascending the Arkansas to the Huerfano, which it followed to the base of the mountains, thence running south to a pass opposite Taos, in New Mexico, some distance north of Santa FÉ; the other ran southwest between Purgatory River and Timpas Creek, through the Raton Mountains of southern Colorado. For the trail east and north of Bent's Fort, and its early history, see post, note 108.—Ed.

44 This was the Purgatory, which they reached the day after.—Ed.

45 Since Long's party pursued a course slightly east of south for thirty-six miles, they must have reached the Purgatory near the northern boundary of Las Animas County. Chaquaqua Creek, just above the town of Bent CaÑon, is probably the one followed when the party left the main stream.—Ed.

46 Genus Sciurus. S. Grammurus, Say.—Line-tailed squirrel. Body cinereous, more or less tinged with ferruginous; fur very coarse, much flattened, canaliculate above, plumbeous or blackish at base, then whitish or ferruginous, tip brownish; above the neck and shoulders the whitish is prevalent; from the middle of the back, the sides and the exterior surface of the legs, the ferruginous colour prevails, the terminal brown of the fur being obsolete; superior and inferior orbits of the eye white; tail moderate, whitish, fur triannulate with black, the base and tip of each hair being whitish, beneath whitish tinged with ferruginous; thumb tubercle armed; iris burnt umber; pupil black.

Length to the origin of the tail, 11½ inches.
of the tail, 9
James.

47 This tributary of the Arkansa, designated on the old maps as the "First Fork," is known among the Spaniards of New Mexico, as the river of the souls in purgatory. We emerged from the gloomy solitude of its valley, with a feeling somewhat akin to that which attends escape from a place of punishment.—James.

Comment by Ed. The Philadelphia edition adds, after the words "First Fork," "as we learned from Bijeau." The Spaniards had two names for the river—Rio Purgatorio and Rio de Las Animas. The French equivalent of the former was RiviÈre Purgatoire, which appears sometimes in English in corrupted form, Picket-wire. The stream is of considerable size, heading on the slopes of the Culebra Range, near the state boundary, and flowing northeast across Las Animas, and corners of Otero and Bent counties.

48 See p. 171 [p. 260 of our volume xv].—James.

49 Abraham Gottlob Werner (1749-1817), for forty years an instructor in the Mining Academy of Freiberg, Saxony, was perhaps the most renowned geologist and mineralogist of his time; but his system of classification long since proved defective in the light of wider research.—Ed.

50 See Bradbury's Travels, p. 161, second edition.—James.

Comment by Ed. See p. 165 of the reprint, in our volume v.

51 From a subsequent comparison of the direction of several water courses which descend from this elevated district, we have been induced to consider the creek mentioned in the text as one of the most remote sources of the great northern tributary of the Canadian river.—James.

Comment by Ed. This stream was more probably the Cimarron, which heads near the source of the Canadian, in the Raton Mountains, which form the watershed between these two rivers and the Purgatory. The Cimarron flows eastward just south of the Colorado line. The upper waters of the North Fork of the Canadian are also in northeastern New Mexico, south of the Cimarron, but it is a smaller stream, and heads farther east. On Cimarron River, see Nuttall's Journal, in our volume xiii, note 203.

52 The stream in question was not a branch of Red River, but, as appears later, a tributary of the Canadian branch of the Arkansas (see Nuttall's Journal, in our volume xiii, note 188). The course of the party after leaving the Purgatory carried them east of that portion of the Canadian which flows south near the base of the mountains, and brought them to some creek which joins the Canadian near the Texas line. A stream in this locality, presumably the one descended, has been named Major Long's Creek. The map is therefore wrong in placing the route of the party along the portion of the upper course of the Canadian, which is thereon marked "Rio Mora" (Raspberry River). Moreover, the Mora is not the main stream of the Canadian, as the map indicates, but a tributary from the west.

The sources of Red River lie near the Texas boundary, in the Staked Plains, south of the Canadian. Long's expedition was the third ineffectual effort of the federal government to discover them. In 1806, Captain Richard Sparks attempted to ascend the river, but was stopped by Spanish cavalry (see chapter iii in our volume xvii). In the same year Lieutenant Z. M. Pike ascended the Arkansas with instructions to find the head of the Red and descend that stream. He mistook for the Red, first the Arkansas itself and then the Rio Grande, and like Sparks was prevented by the Spaniards from carrying his exploration to a successful close. Red River was not explored to its sources until 1852, when it was ascended by a party under Capt. Randolph B. Marcy, of the Fifth Infantry. An expedition under General McLeod, which left Austin, Texas, in June, 1841, and was captured by Mexicans, is thought to have visited the sources of Red River, but it furnished no topographical data which could be relied on.

Long's party approached within perhaps a hundred and fifty miles of Santa FÉ.—Ed.

53 Since our return to Philadelphia, the following description of the animal has been drawn out from the dried skin, which, however, is so much injured by depredating insects, that it has not been judged proper to mount it entire. The head has therefore been separated from the remaining portion of the skin, and may be seen in the Philadelphia Museum, placed under the foot of a prairie wolf (canis latrans, Say), which has been well prepared by Mr. T. Peale.

Cervus Macrotis, Say.—Antlers slightly grooved, tuberculated at base; a small branch near the base, corresponding to the situation and direction of that of C. Virginianus; the curvature of the anterior line of the antlers is similar in direction, but less in degree, to that of the same deer; near the middle of the entire length of the antlers, they bifurcate equally, and each of these processes again divides near the extremity, the anterior of these smaller processes being somewhat longer than the posterior one; the ears are very long, extending to the principal bifurcation, about half the length of the whole antler; the lateral teeth are larger in proportion to the intermediate teeth than those of the C. Virginianus are; eye-lashes black; the aperture beneath the eye is larger than that of the species just mentioned, and pervious; the hair also is coarser, and is undulated and compressed like that of the elk (C. major); the colour is light reddish-brown above; sides of the head, and hair on the fore portion of the nose above, dull cinereous; the back is intermixed with blackish tipped hairs, which form a distinct line on the neck, near the head; the tail is of a pale reddish cinereous colour, and the hair of the tip of the tail is black; the tip of the trunk of the tail is somewhat compressed, and is beneath almost destitute of hair; the hoofs are shorter and wider than those of the Virginianus, and more like those of the elk.

Inches
Length from the base of the antlers to the origin of the basal process 2
of the basal process,
from the basal process to the principal bifurcation, to 5
from the principal bifurcation to the two other bifurcations respectively, to
terminal prongs of the anterior branch, from 4 to
terminal prongs of the posterior branch, from to 3
from the anterior base of the antlers to the tip of the superior jaw,
from the anterior canthus of the eye to the tip of the jaw,
from the base of the antler to the anterior canthus, 3
of the ears, more than
of the trunk of the tail, 4
of the hair at the tip of the tail, from 3 to 4

This is probably the species mentioned by Lewis and Clarke, vol. i. p. 77, under the name of black-tailed deer, and more frequently in other parts of the work, by that of mule deer. It is without doubt a new species, not having been hitherto introduced into the systems.—James.

54 John Melish, Map of United States with contiguous British and Spanish Possessions (Philadelphia, 1816); for biographical sketch, see Bradbury's Travels, in our volume v, note 129.—Ed.

55 More commonly called Pawnee Picts; now probably represented by the Wichita, a remnant of which still exists on the Kiowa agency in Oklahoma. They had no connection with the Piqua Indians, and, according to some authorities, bore no resemblance, either in language or customs, to the Pawnee of the Platte. Others regard them as an offshoot of the Grand Pawnee. Indeed, the history of the tribe is somewhat of a puzzle. The name suggests the belief held by some (e.g., Stoddard, in Sketches of Louisiana) that there was a race of Welsh origin on Red River. The Pawnee Picts were sometimes called "White Pawnee," suggesting the same belief. They were intimately associated with the Comanche. Their name in their own language was Toweeahge, of which variant forms are Towiache, Towcash, and Toyash. As late as 1877 their home was still on the Washita. The site of their village at the time of Long's expedition is uncertain; probably it was not permanent. John Sibley (American State Papers, "Indian Affairs," ii, p. 731) located it (1806) thirty or forty miles above the False Washita; while Melish's map of 1816 places it opposite the mouth of Boggy River. The Indians of this region seem to have had intercourse with the Spaniards from an early date. One Brevel, born among the neighboring Caddo, told Sibley (1805) that he had visited Santa FÉ forty years previous.—Ed.

56 G. linifolia, Nuttall's Manuscript.—Stem erect, sparingly branched, smooth leaves, smooth sessile, alternate linear lanceolate entire, with the midrib translucent. Flowers in a terminal crowded spike; after flowering the rachis extends itself, and in the ripened fruit the spike is scattered; nut triquetrous, much shorter than the linear bractea.

The flowers are white, having in the calyx a tinge of brownish purple. They are about as large as those of G. coccinnea. The plant is three or four feet high, the leaves small and short, and the stem slender.

This is the fifth species of gaura we have met with west of the Mississippi. The G. biennis of the Eastern States has not hitherto been found here.—James.

57 The entire courses of both streams lie within the state of Texas; they head in the Staked Plains and flow southeast to the Gulf. The Colorado (Blood Red) was named Brazos del Dio (Arms of God) by a Franciscan monk; but the Mexicans confused the streams and exchanged the names.—Ed.

58 The misinformation was not necessarily given intentionally. Many of the rivers of the southwest are colored red, and the Mexicans habitually called them Rio Colorado (Blood Red River). Especially was the Canadian so known; the upper Red seems to have been called Rio Negro. The Indians borrowed the Spanish nomenclature.—Ed.

59 Alexander Wilson (1766-1813), the son of a Scotch weaver, came to Philadelphia in 1794. After working as printer, weaver, peddler, and schoolmaster, his natural love for the sciences, quickened by the acquaintance of William Bartram, led him (1804) to begin the excursions and collections which resulted in the American Ornithology (Philadelphia, 9 vols., 1808-14). Much of the plate work for these volumes was personally prepared by Wilson. His death was due to exposure in swimming a stream to capture a rare bird.—Ed.

60 Charles Alexander Lesueur (1778-1857) was the author of numerous studies of molluscs and reptiles, which were published in various scientific journals. During a residence at Philadelphia (1815) he was a contributor to the Journal published by the Academy of Sciences. Upon returning to France, he became curator of the Havre museum.—Ed.

61 This is Dry River, in Texas, a short distance above the Antelope Hills, of Oklahoma. It is noted by Lieut. J. H. Simpson (1849).—Ed.

62 This is a portion of the country famed for the supposed cure of consumption.—Ed.

63 On this day the party probably crossed the line between Texas and Oklahoma. The Antelope Hills lie south of the river at this point.—Ed.

64 For the same reasons it is practically impossible to follow the progress of the party; the camping places can only be approximated from the longitude indicated on the map, which is thirty to fifty miles too great for the western area, but substantially correct at the mouth of the Canadian.—Ed.

65 The magnetic variation was here from 12° to 13° east.—James.

66 The Washita (an Indian word meaning either "male deer," or "country of large buffaloes") should be distinguished from the river in Arkansas (Ouachita) near the sources of which are the Hot Springs (see Nuttall's Journal, in our volume xiii, note 125). The Washita, which, as the text states, is the chief northern tributary of Red River, rises in the "pan-handle" of Texas and flows east and southeast, roughly parallel with the Canadian. Its confluence with the Red is between the ninety-sixth and ninety-seventh meridians. At the western boundary of Oklahoma, the Washita approaches within fifteen miles of the Canadian; farther east, the approximation of its tributaries is so close as, in one place, scarcely to admit the passage of a single wagon.—Ed.

67 The latitude of this point was ascertained by Major Long, in December, 1819, to be a few minutes below 34° north.—James.

Comment by Ed. On the Kiamesha (Kiamichi) see Nuttall's Journal, in our volume xiii, note 177.

68 Just east of the ninety-ninth meridian, the Canadian almost touches the thirty-sixth parallel, and then turning southeast passes below the thirty-fifth, turning northeast again near the ninety-sixth meridian. The party is now near the bend to the southeast; the map probably shows them on the nineteenth too far along the southeast course. The stream flowing southeast was doubtless a tributary of the Washita. Gypsum (sulphate of lime) occurs in great abundance along the Canadian, especially between the ninety-ninth and one hundredth meridians. Near the ninety-ninth meridian begins a wooded district known as the Cross Timbers; it varies in width from five to thirty miles, and is four hundred miles in length, extending from the Arkansas to the Brazos.—Ed.

69 This elegant centaurea has a head of flowers nearly as large as that of the cincus lanceolatus, so commonly naturalized in the East. Some specimens from seeds, brought by Major Long, have flowered in Mrs. Peale's garden, near Germantown. The plant will be easily naturalized, and will be found highly ornamental.—James.

70 Chapter i in volume iii of the original London edition.—Ed.

71 Later explorations proved that the divide between the Red and Canadian was well supplied with springs.—Ed.

72 In places where the absence of crocodiles permits people to enter the river, Humboldt and Bonpland observed, that the immoderate use of baths, while it moderated the pain of the old stings of zanceadores, rendered them more sensible to new. By bathing more than twice a day, the skin is brought into a state of nervous irritability, of which no idea can be formed in Europe. It would seem as if all feeling were carried towards the integuments. Humboldt's Personal Narrative, vol. v. p. 105.—James.

73 These are the three largest tributaries of the Arkansas from the west. The Ne-sew-ke-tonga is the modern Cimarron; the Negracka is the Salt Fork. The Cimarron is between the other two, in size as well as place; the Canadian is largest and most southerly. All united with the Arkansas between the thirty-fifth and thirty-seventh parallels. The two smaller streams between the Cimarron and Negracka, named Saline Creek and Strong Saline on the map, are now respectively known as Black Bear and Red Rock creeks.—Ed.

74 Ampelopsis quinquefolia of Michaux.—James.

75 The name is a corruption of the French aux arcs (with bows), applied to the Indians of Missouri and Arkansas. The hills here meant are known as the Shawnee Hills, from the Indians of that tribe, who later had villages on the Canadian about a hundred and twenty-five miles from Fort Smith.—Ed.

76 See Cuming's Tour, in our volume iv, note 108.—Ed.

77 Strobilaria of Nuttall, belonging to the heteromorphous genus phytolithus of Martin.—James.

78 Probably Sand (sometimes called Topofki) Creek. The much larger Little River, entering from the other side a few miles below, is not mentioned.—Ed.

79 Ulmus americana and ulmus alata.—James.

80 Maclura Aurantiaca, Nuttall.—A description of this interesting tree may be seen in Mr. Nuttall's valuable work on the Genera of North American Plants, vol. ii. p. 233. That description was drawn from specimens cultivated in the garden of Mr. Choteau, at St. Louis, where, as might be expected, the tree did not attain its full size and perfect character. In its native wilds, the Maclura is conspicuous by its showy fruit, in size and external appearance resembling the largest oranges. The leaves are of an oval form, with an undivided margin, and the upper surface of a smooth shining green; they are five or six inches long, and from two to three wide. The wood is of a yellowish colour, uncommonly fine and elastic, affording the material most used for bows by all the savages from the Mississippi to the Rocky Mountains. How far towards the north its use extends we have not been informed; but we have often seen it among the lower tribes of the Missouri, who procure it in trade from the Osages and the Pawnees of Red river. The bark, fruit, &c. when cut into, exude a copious, milky sap, which soon dries on exposure, and is insoluble in water; containing, probably, like the milky pieces of many other of the urticÆ, a large intermixture of caotchouc, or gum elastic. Observing this property in the milky juice of the fruit, we were tempted to apply it to our skin, where it formed a thin and flexible varnish, affording us, as we thought, some protection from the ticks.

The fruit consists of radiating, somewhat woody fibres, terminating in a tuberculated and slightly papillose surface. In this fibrous mass the seeds, which are nearly as large as those of a quince, are disseminated. We cannot pretend to say what part of the fruit has been described as the "pulp which is nearly as succulent as that of an orange; sweetish, and perhaps agreeable when fully ripe." In our opinion, the whole of it is as disagreeable to the taste, and as unfit to be eaten as the fruit of the sycamore, to which it has almost as much resemblance as to the orange.

The tree rises to the height of twenty-five or thirty feet, dividing near the ground into a number of long, slender, and flexuous branches. It inhabits deep and fertile soils along the river valley. The Arkansa appears to be the northern limit of the range of the maclura, and neither on that river, nor on the Canadian, does the tree or the fruit attain so considerable a size as in warmer latitudes. Of many specimens of the fruit examined by Major Long, at the time of his visit to Red river, in 1817, several were found measuring five and an half inches in diameter.—James.

81 Pike was the first to describe as a desert the fine grazing lands of the Great Plains; Long and Pike agreed in thinking them providentially placed to keep the American people from ruinous diffusion. The myth of the Great American Desert lived for half a century.—Ed.

82 The South Fork of the Canadian is a much smaller stream than the map indicates. Its sources are in the Shawnee Hills, not far west of the ninety-sixth meridian, near those of Boggy River, a tributary of the Red.

On the sources of the North Fork, see ante, note 51.—Ed.

83 Journal of Travels into the Arkansa Territory, by Thomas Nuttall, &c. page 200.—James.

Comment by Ed. See reprint of Nuttall's Journal, in our volume xiii, p. 265, and note 204.

84 This tree, the populus angulata of Pursh, has received its common name from the downy cotton-like appendage to the seed, which being ripened and shed in May, or the beginning of June, is then seen floating in the air in great quantities, and often proves somewhat troublesome to the eyes and noses of persons who are much in the open air. Baron Humboldt in speaking of the unona aromatica of South America, says, "Its branches are straight, and rise in a pyramid nearly like those of the poplar of the Mississippi, falsely called Lombardy poplar." Pers. Nar. vol. v. p. 163. As far as our observation has extended, the poplar most common in the country of the Mississippi, and indeed almost the only one which occurs, is the angulata, very distinct from the populus dilatata, the Lombardy poplar of our streets and yards, which is not a native of this country. The branches of the cotton-wood tree are not very numerous, particularly where it occurs in forests, as is the case on the Mississippi, below the confluence of the Missouri, and in the alluvial lands of most of the rivers in the United States, and show less tendency to arrange themselves in a pyramidal form than those of almost any other tree. In the open country west of the Mississippi, where, in the distance of one hundred miles, some dozens of cotton-wood trees may be found scattered, their tops are peculiarly low and straggling, as is the case with individuals of the same species which have grown in open fields, and by the road sides in various places. This tree is, perhaps, as widely distributed as any indigenous to North America, extending at least from Canada to Louisiana, and from the Atlantic to the lower part of Columbia river. It is, however, so peculiarly frequent in every part of the country watered by the Mississippi and its tributaries, that it may, with as little absurdity as usually attends names referring to locality, be called the Mississippi poplar. It is probable, that nearly one half of the whole number of trees in the recent alluvial grounds or bottom-lands of the Mississippi and its tributaries, are of this species. Whether it was considered by Humboldt as identical with the Lombardy poplar of our streets, we cannot decide.

The cotton-wood varies in magnitude in proportion to the fertility of the soil; and on the Ohio, the Mississippi, and the Arkansa, it attains the size of our largest forest trees. It is sometimes exceeded in girth, and in the number and extent of its branches, by the majestic sycamore; but in forests where the two are intermixed, as is commonly the case, it is seen to overtop all other trees. A cotton-wood tree mentioned in the journal of the exploring party who ascended Red river in 1806, and spoken of as one of many similar trees standing in a corn field three or four days' journey above Natchitoches, measured one hundred and forty-one feet and six inches in height, and five feet in diameter. [Freeman's MS. Journal.] Though we have not actual admeasurements to compare with this, we are of opinion that many trees on the Arkansa would rather exceed than fall short of these dimensions. The cotton-wood affords a light and soft timber, not very durable, except when protected from the weather. Before expansion, the buds of this tree are partially covered with a viscid, resinous exudation, resembling that so conspicuous on the buds of the populus balsamifera, and diffusing in the spring and the early part of summer an extremely grateful and balsamic odour.—James.

85 This estimate of distances is excessive, unless sinuosities of the trail are included, but this is not clear from the text. The distance from Fort Smith to the western boundary of Texas, near where the party reached the Canadian proper, is less than six hundred miles; to Santa FÉ, less than eight hundred miles. If the length of Major Long's Creek be added, the estimate is still more than a hundred miles too great.—Ed.

86 For Point Sucre and Cavaniol Mountains and the Poteau River, see Nuttall's Journal, in our volume xiii, notes 167, 169.—Ed.

87 For the Arkansas Cherokee, see ibid., note 145.—Ed.

88 We have adopted this name from the author of the "Manual of Botany," as a substitute for that of the 1712 genera of Persoon, which has been so severely censured by President Smith in Rees's Cyclopedia. It is equally appropriate with the old name, and contains no offensive allusion.—James.

89 At this time, Hugh Glenn had a trading-house about a mile above the mouth of the Verdigris. See Nuttall's Journal, volume xiii of our series, note 35. Whether there was another person named Robert, or whether the name is an error, is uncertain.—Ed.

90 For sketch of Major William Bradford see ibid., note 166.

James H. Ballard was appointed from Maryland (1813) as second lieutenant in the Thirty-sixth Infantry. He was transferred to the Rifle Regiment in 1815, and two years later made captain. In 1821 he was transferred to the Second Infantry, and died in 1823.—Ed.

91 Thomas A. Smith entered the army in 1803, from Georgia, on an appointment as second lieutenant of artillerists. In 1808 he became captain in the rifles, and was promoted successively to lieutenant-colonel (1810), colonel (1812), and brigadier-general (1814). On the reorganization of the army in 1815 he was retained as colonel in the Rifle Regiment, with brevet rank of brigadier-general. He resigned in 1818. See volume xiv, note 118.—Ed.

92 Nuttall's Travels into the Arkansa Territory, p. 144.—James.

Comment by Ed. Page 202 of the reprint in volume xiii of our series.

93 Skin (sometimes called Big Skin) Bayou is a small northern tributary of the Arkansas, which debouches about ten miles above Fort Smith. The Six Bulls is the Neosho (or Grand) River. For the Verdigris, Illinois, and Neosho, see Nuttall's Journal, in our volume xiii, notes 189, 192, 193.—Ed.

94 The country traversed by the Canadian, explored for the first time by Long's party, soon became familiar to traders through the increasing intercourse with the Mexican provinces; but it was not again examined under government auspices until 1845, when Lieut. James W. Abert, detached by FrÉmont near Bent's Fort on the upper Arkansas, crossed to the Canadian somewhat west of Long's route, and descended it, visiting en route the sources of the Washita. For his report see Senate Document No. 438, Twenty-ninth Congress, first session. In 1849, Lieut. J. H. Simpson surveyed a route for a road from Fort Smith to Santa FÉ, and the map accompanying his report shows in considerable detail the course of the Canadian. See Senate Executive Document No. 12, Thirty-first Congress, first session.—Ed.

95 The following six chapters are from the pen of Mr. Say.—James.

96 In contradistinction from Spaniards, near whose frontier these Indians rove.—James.

97 The Spanish-American frontier was, during this whole period, the scene of almost constant friction, and several filibustering expeditions invaded Texas during the first two decades of the century. In 1811 Bernardo Gutierrez, a Mexican refugee, and Augustus Magee, an ex-officer of the United States army, led a force into eastern Texas, seized Nacogdoches, and drove the Spanish troops in confusion across Trinity River. On some such exploit as this—possibly this very one—the Indians doubtless based their story. During the year of Major Long's expedition, another man of the same patronymic (James Long, a Natchez merchant) led another party into Texas, but achieved slight success. See Garrison, Texas (Boston, 1903). An article in Niles' Register (xix, p. 133), speaking of the Comanche, says: "These Indians consider themselves the most powerful nation in the world, and next to them, the Americas (as they call the people of the United States). But, since Long's defeat, they rank Spain before America, considering Long to have the command of all the United States."—Ed.

98 We do not know that any writer has visited these Indians since the expedition of Mr. Bourgmont, Commander of Fort Orleans of the Missouri, which took place in the year 1724. They were then, and have since continued to be, distinguished collectively by the name of Padoucas. Du Pratz informs us, that they were then very numerous, "extending almost two hundred leagues; and they have villages quite close to the Spaniards of New Mexico." And that "from the Padoucas to the Canzes, proceeding always east, we may now safely reckon sixty-five and a half leagues. The river of the Canzes is parallel to this route." From this statement of the course and estimate of the distance to the country of the Padoucas, it is evident, that at this day these Indians do not habitually wander in that direction so near to Missouri as they then did, owing probably to the hostilities of the more martial nations residing on that river.—James.

99 Bufo cognatus.—Fuscous, with cinereous lines; head canaliculate, groove abbreviated before. Body above, dark brownish, papillous, the papillÆ and their basal disks black; they are more numerous, prominent, and acute, on the sides and legs; not prominent on the back. A vertebral cinereous vitta, from which an oblique cinereous irregular line is drawn from the vertex to the side behind the anterior feet; another double one from the middle of the back to the posterior thighs. Sides and legs with irregular cinereous lines. Head with a groove, which hardly extends anteriorly to the line of the anterior canthus of the eyes; verrucÆ behind the eyes, moderate; superior maxilla emarginate; beneath granulated.

Length from the nose to the cloaca, 3¾ inches. A specimen is placed in the Philadelphia museum.—James.

100 The Arrapaho, or Rappaho nation, is known to the Minnetarees of the Missouri, by the name of E-tÂ-lÉh, or Bison-path Indians.—James.

101 The intoxicating bean is the fruit of a variety of mesquite tree (prosopis glandulosa), which is common in the semi-arid districts of the Southwest. It bears a pod similar to that of the locust, to which it is related, containing eight to twelve beans. The Indians use the bean as food for themselves and their horses, as well as in the preparation of an alcoholic drink.—Ed.

102 Amongst the herds of these animals, we frequently saw flocks of the cow bunting (emberiza pecora). The manners of this bird, in some respects, are very similar to those of the Tanagra erythroryncha of Lord Stanley, in Salt's travels; flying, and alighting in considerable numbers on the backs of the bisons, which, from their submission to the pressure of numbers of them, seem to appreciate the services they render, by scratching and divesting them of vermin. This bird is here, as well as in the settlements, remarkably fearless. They will suffer us to pass very near to them, and one of them to-day, alighted repeatedly on the ground near our horses' feet: he would fly along our line, and balance himself on his wings, to gratify his curiosity, within striking distance of a whip.—James.

103 This is the first notice of any of the natural features along the route since the division of the expedition two weeks previous, and two hundred and fifty miles up stream. The Great Bend of the Arkansas begins in Ford County, Kansas, and culminates in Barton County. The chord of this great arc is nearly a hundred and twenty-five miles long. Above the bend the country north of the river is flat, while to the south it is hilly, causing the deflection of the stream toward the northeast.—Ed.

104 See preceding volume, note 134.—Ed.

105 "Demun's Creek" is Pawnee River, flowing eastward from Finney County and emptying into the Arkansas at the present town of Larned, Pawnee County, on the west side of the Great Bend. Eight miles above its mouth is the site of Fort Larned, established in 1859.—Ed.

106 Ash Creek, Pawnee County.—Ed.

107 At the culmination of the bend is the mouth of Walnut Creek, which is a large stream flowing east from Lane, across Ness, Rush, and Barton counties, and reaching the Arkansas four miles below the town of Great Bend, seat of Barton County. A small tributary of Walnut Creek, called Little Walnut, debouches four miles from the Arkansas; possibly the party confused the two streams.—Ed.

108 At this point Pike reached the Arkansas in October, 1806, on his way to the Rocky Mountains from the Pawnee village on Republican River. Here, also, the Santa FÉ trail reached the Arkansas. From Independence and Kansas City the trail followed the divide between the Arkansas and Kansas, crossing the headwaters of the tributaries of the former. Above the Great Bend, the main route followed the river to Bent's Fort, where it forked as already described (see ante, note 43). A branch of the trail crossed the river in Gray County, Kansas, and traversed the semi-desert region to the southward, to the upper Cimarron; this branch was known as the Cimarron route. The use of the Santa FÉ trail dates from time immemorial, but for purposes of trade was long precarious. It was of considerable commercial importance from the early twenties to the age of railroad building; in some years the value of the goods carried amounted to nearly half a million dollars. See volumes xix and xx of our series.—Ed.

109 The Comanche (a word of Spanish origin, but of unknown meaning) were of Shoshoni stock, and roamed a vast territory extending from western Texas and Kansas to the foot of the mountains. They were fierce and predatory, and superb horsemen. Notwithstanding bloody wars and the ravages of small-pox, the tribe numbered probably about ten thousand at the middle of the nineteenth century. A remnant of about fourteen hundred of these tribesmen now lives on the Kiowa reservation, in Oklahoma.—Ed.

110 We have since learned, from Major O'Fallon, that Ietan, the distinguished Oto partizan, had informed him, within a few days of this date, that he had just then returned from a war excursion in company with a small party of Otoes that he led. And the narration of his adventures satisfactorily proved, that it was he and his party that reduced the Ietan war-party to the condition in which they presented themselves to us.—James.

111 Cow Creek, the largest tributary of the Arkansas between Walnut Creek and the Little Arkansas. It flows from Barton County southeast across Rice County; Hutchinson, seat of Reno County, is at its confluence with the river. The Santa FÉ trail crossed the headwaters of several of its tributaries not far from the Great Bend.—Ed.

112 The chief branch of the Little Arkansas heads near the northern line of Rice County, traverses the northeast corner of Reno County, and joins several smaller creeks in Harvey County. Thence its course is almost south; Wichita, Sedgwick County, is at its mouth.—Ed.

113 Probably Chisholm's Creek, a small Sedgwick County stream.—Ed.

114 Bell's party mistook the Nennescah (Nenescah, Nenesquaw, an Indian word meaning "good river") for the Negracka, which on the map is given the alternate name of Red Fork. Lieutenant Wilkinson's detachment of Pike's expedition made the same mistake in 1806; their report may have misled Bell's party. The Negracka is much farther south, but the members of the party were confused relative to their whereabouts from this time until shortly before they arrived at the Verdigris. The Nennescah drains most of the area inclosed by the Great Bend; Whitman, Sumner County, is at its mouth. The Negracka is now often called Salt Fork; the name Red Fork applies more properly to the Cimarron. The names, locations, and relative sizes of the western tributaries of the Arkansas between Great Bend and the Canadian made up a cartographical puzzle which resisted solution for another generation.—Ed.

115 This is the modern Walnut Creek, formerly called Whitewater River. Its course is nearly south through Butler and Cowley counties; Arkansas City is near the confluence. This creek should be distinguished from the stream of the same name mentioned ante, note 107.—Ed.

116 Now Grouse Creek; its course lies almost wholly within Cowley County, and its mouth is almost on the line separating Kansas and Oklahoma. The map is far from accurate in showing the tributaries of the Arkansas in this region. The Nennescah is much nearer to Walnut Creek than to the Little Arkansas; while the Negracka and all the other western streams marked on the map are south of the Kansas boundary (the thirty-seventh parallel). Slate Creek, in Sumner County, Kansas, was evidently mistaken for the Strong Saline (now Red Rock Creek, Oklahoma); but there is no tributary from the west, above Walnut Creek, corresponding to the Saline (Black Bear) Creek of the map. The cartographer appears to have forced matters here.—Ed.

117 Doubtless (Big) Beaver Creek, in the Kansa reservation.—Ed.

118 Being now opposite the mouth of the Negracka, or Salt Fork of the Arkansas, for which five days previous they had mistaken the Nennescah, Bell's men naturally infer that they are at the Cimarron, to which alone the names used in the text were ever applied; it is much larger than the "considerable stream" noted. Its confluence is, on a straight line, some fifty miles farther down, about midway between the present camp and the mouth of the Verdigris. By abandoning their route along the immediate bank of the Arkansas on the twenty-eighth, the party missed the Cimarron.—Ed.

119 The path of the party on August 23 and 24 followed an eastward bend of the river, beginning at the northwest corner of the Pawnee Reservation. Several creeks enter along this bend, the most important of which now bear the names of Buck and Gray Horse.—Ed.

120 The creek nearly opposite the camp of the twenty-seventh, unnamed on the map, is Saline (Black Bear) Creek, which the party thought had been passed far up stream.—Ed.

121 The route of the party on the twenty-ninth and thirtieth probably led them across the upper course of Hominy Creek, a tributary of the Verdigris, flowing parallel with the Arkansas. They evidently mistook it for a tributary of the Arkansas; the map shows such a tributary crossed on the twenty-ninth, but there is none at the place indicated. This supposition is borne out by the misconception relative to the direction of the ravine crossed on the thirtieth; this depression may have been the dry course of the same creek. The stream visible from the elevated ground was either the Verdigris or Bird Creek, which unites with Hominy Creek on the Osage-Cherokee boundary.—Ed.

122 This stream was the Cimarron, then known as the Nesuketonga, or Grand Saline, opposite which the party thought they had encamped on the twenty-first. The point at which they again reached the Arkansas was probably near the Osage-Cherokee line, about twenty miles below the mouth of the Cimarron.—Ed.

123 For sketch of the Osage Indians, see Bradbury's Travels, in our volume v, note 22. On Clermont, see ibid., note 108, and Nuttall's Journal, in our volume xiii, note 195.—Ed.

124 See description of this custom in Bradbury's Travels, in our volume v, p. 63.—Ed.

125 The Arkansas band of the Osage were known by the French name of Osage des ChÊnes (Osage of the Oaks). Chancers is evidently a corruption of chÊnes.—Ed.

126 For sketch of White Hair, see Bradbury's Travels, in our volume v, note 108; and Nuttall's Journal, our volume xiii, note 194. John L. Foe (Watchawaha; called Jean La Fou by the French) was White Hair's son-in-law, and second chief of the Grand Osage. Sans Oreille (Without Ears, Indian name Tetobasi) was first soldier of his tribe as early as Pike's visit in 1806. He and Big Soldier (Has-ha-ke-da-tungar) were in a company of Indians whom Pike escorted to their homes. Part of these tribesmen had visited Washington as delegates of their nation, and some had lately been ransomed by the United States from captivity among the Potawatomi. Lieutenant Wilkinson, of Pike's command, accompanied them to the Little Osage village in August, 1806, and among his entertainers on the occasion of that visit was The Soldier of the Oak. This cognomen is a translation of his French name (Le soldat du chÊne), given, it is said, on account of a desperate fight with several assailants, during which he sheltered himself behind an oak. His portrait, painted upon the occasion of a visit to Washington in 1805 or 1806, is published in McKenney, Indian Tribes, ii, p. 169.—Ed.

127 Peter Chouteau, more commonly known by his French name of Pierre, and his elder brother Auguste, were founders of St. Louis. They long were partners in the Indian trade, and their sons also attained prominence in the various fur companies. In 1804, President Jefferson appointed Pierre as agent to the Indians west of the Mississippi. The treaty referred to may be found in American State Papers, "Indian Affairs," i, p. 763; the date was November 10 instead of 8; and the nomination was submitted to the senate January 16, 1810. Fort Clark was an earlier name for Fort Osage, for which see Bradbury's Travels, in our volume v, note 31; also our volume xiv, note 136.—Ed.

128 Notes on the following topics mentioned in this chapter may be found in Nuttall's Journal, volume xiii of our series: Verdigris River (note 193), Hugh Glenn (35), Neosho River (192), Illinois River (189).—Ed.

129 See reprint of Nuttall's Journal, in our volume xiii, pp. 243, 244.—Ed.

130 Agama collaris.Scales of the back, neck, and head beneath, anterior legs, and superior and posterior portions of the posterior legs, small, slightly convex, mutic, rounded, or a little oblong, obsoletely arranged in transverse lines; those of the abdomen and breast larger, slightly hexagonal or quadrate, and distinctly arranged in transverse lines; those of the tail rather smaller than the abdominal ones, arranged in bands, quadrate, mutic towards the tip of the tail, oblong, carinated, and acute; front, middle of the head, vertex, and anterior portion of the inferior jaw, with scales approaching the size of plates; colour, back with five or six dusky, broad bands, alternating with narrow fulvous bands, which have each a series of yellow or cinereous spots; a few spots are also scattered on the dusky bands; sides greenish-yellow; sides of the neck fulvous, more or less varied with brilliant vermilion red, a deep black band, and another on the shoulder, both obsolete above, and terminating near the anterior legs; beneath pale; posterior thighs with a series of pores; eyes silvery, pupil round, black; tail long, tapering, cylindrical. Length from nose to cloaca 4 inches, tail 5? inches. A specimen is deposited in the Philadelphia museum.—James.

131 Bayou Menard (Manard) is a small stream which flows into the Arkansas three or four miles below the Neosho. A short distance above its mouth it unites with Four Mile Creek. The town of Manard is now situated on its east bank.—Ed.

132 The name Greenleaf Bayou is still borne by this stream, but on many maps it is marked Gruitch (or Grautch) Creek. The town of Bluffs, on the Iron Mountain Railroad, stands near its mouth, which is about twenty miles below the Neosho.—Ed.

133 Mygale avicularia.—James.

134 See our reprint, p. 180.—Ed.

135 The name of Bayou Viande (meaning Meat Bayou) has been corrupted to Vine Creek.—Ed.

136 This is the correct orthography; the meaning is, more accurately, Salted Meat Bayou. See Nuttall's Journal, note 187.—Ed.

137 Ixodes molestus.Body reddish brown, punctured, orbicular very slightly approaching ovate; scutus rounded or sub-angular, hardly attaining the middle of the body, and with two distinct, indented, longitudinal lines; tergum, with about four dilated, black, distinct radii behind the middle; margin from near the middle of the side, with ten or twelve impressed, acute, equal, equidistant lines, which do not crenate the edge or upper surface. Length rather more than 1/20 of an inch.—James.


TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES

The text and chapter headings include Original Edition page numbers and chapter numbers in [ ]; for example [212] Chapter I [VIII]. The page numbers of this edition, when present, are in the right margin.

Obvious typographical and punctuation errors have been corrected after careful comparison with other occurrences within the text and consultation of external sources.

Inconsistent spelling of a word or word-pair within the text has been retained. For example, southeast south-east; gray grey; prairie dog prairie-dog.

Spelling has been left as found in the original text; variations in spelling and hyphenation have been left as well, except for those changes detailed below. Note that some names are spelled differently in the main text and in a footnote; this difference is retained (for example, Le Sueur and Lesueur).

Pg 5 'Cottonwood' changed to 'Cotton-wood' for consistency.
Pg 5 'Thunderstorm' changed to 'Thunder-storm' for consistency.
Pg 28 and 29 'Viellot' changed to 'Vieillot' for consistency.
Pg 30 'sand-stone' changed to 'sandstone' for consistency.
Pg 76 'harrassed' changed to 'harassed'.
Pg 118 'abcesses' changed to 'abscesses'.
Pg 237 New paragraph after comma, left unchanged.
Pg 247 'S.W.' changed to 'S. W.' for consistency.
Pg 251 'Nesuhetonga' changed to 'Nesuketonga'.
Footnote 13 'Epeditions' changed to 'Expeditions'.
Footnote 51 'the' inserted before 'Canadian'.
Footnote 53 'terminal prongs' inserted for clarity in line 6 in the table.





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