Winter cantonment near Council Bluff—Councils with the Otoes, Missouries, Ioways, Pawnees, &c.

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The position selected for the establishment of winter quarters for the exploring party, was on the west bank of the Missouri, about half a mile above Fort Lisa, five miles below Council Bluff, and three miles above the mouth of Boyer's river.[174] At this place we anchored on the 19th[pg222] of September, and in a few days had made great progress in cutting timber, quarrying stone, and other preparations for the construction of quarters.

Cliffs of sparry limestone rise in the rear of the site we had selected, to an elevation of near three hundred feet.[175] At times of low water, strata of horizontal sandstone are disclosed in the bed of the Missouri. These pass under and support the limestone. Both these strata probably extend in connexion, some distance to the west; but as they are deeply covered with soil, we could not accurately ascertain their boundary in that direction. On the map accompanying this work, we have traced a line running from the Canadian river of the Arkansa, to the Elk Horn, between 96° and 98° west longitude, and marking what we supposed nearly the westernmost limit of the horizontal limestones, and the argillaceous sandstones, disclosed in the beds of the larger rivers.

{138} Both these strata embrace numerous relics of marine animals, many of which we collected.[176]

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Immediately after our arrival, an interpreter had been sent across the country, to intercept the traders then on their way to the Pawnees, with considerable quantities of merchandize. It was thought proper to suspend all intercourse with those Indians, until an adjustment of the recent difficulties should take place. In addition to the outrage committed on Mr. Say's party, they had made prisoners of two white hunters from the Arkansa, a father and son, who had been found hunting in the Indian territories. These men had been liberated through the interference of some of the members of the Missouri Fur Company, and had recently arrived at Fort Lisa. During their captivity, they had been treated with such severity by the Pawnees, that they had often entreated an end might be put to their lives.[pg228]

The interpreter returned on the 20th, having accomplished the object of his mission. Soon afterwards, Mr. Dougherty arrived from the Oto village, whither he had been sent with a deputation to Konzas, to aid in effecting a reconciliation between those nations. This proposition, which originated with the Konzas, was favourably received by the Otoes. Mr. D. was soon afterwards despatched to the Pawnees, with instructions to demand of them the property plundered from Mr. Say's party, also to require that the persons who had committed that outrage should be given up. He was accompanied by two Frenchmen acquainted with the Pawnees and their language.

A party of Otoes arrived at Fort Lisa on the 26th of September, with pack-horses laden with pelfries, and bringing with them a soldier, who, having been accidentally separated from a small detachment that were driving some beeves from Martin's Cantonments, towards Council Bluff, had wandered about in the prairie for five days, without tasting food, {139} when he at last had the good fortune to fall in with the Otoes, who hospitably fed and conducted him to the trading house. [pg229]

The Council Bluff, so called by Lewis and Clarke, from a council with the Otoes and Missouries held there on the 3d of August 1804, is a remarkable bank rising abruptly from the brink of the river, to an elevation of about one hundred and fifty feet. This is a most beautiful position, having two important military features, security, and a complete command of the river. Its defects are a want of wood within a convenient distance, there being little within a mile above, and much farther below, also a want of stone and of water, except that of the river. From the summits of the hills, about one mile in the rear of the bluff, is presented the view of a most extensive and beautiful landscape. The bluffs on the east side of the river exhibit a chain of peaks stretching as far as the eye can reach. The river is here and there seen meandering in serpentine folds, along its broad valley, chequered with woodlands and prairies, while at a nearer view you look down on an extensive plain interspersed with a few scattered copses or bushes, and terminated at a distance by the Council Bluff.

This position is about five miles above that selected for the wintering post of the exploring party. At the last mentioned place, a very narrow plain or beach, closely covered with trees, intervenes between the immediate bank of the river and the bluffs, which rise near two hundred feet, but are so gradually sloped as to be ascended without great difficulty, and are also covered with trees. This spot presented numerous advantages for the cantonment of a small party like ours. Here were abundant supplies of wood and stone, immediately on the spot where we wished to erect our cabins, and the situation was sheltered by the high bluffs from the north-west winds. The place was called Engineer Cantonment. {140} On the[pg230] 26th of September, Mr. Say and Mr. Jessup arrived in the flotilla from Cow Island, in company with Col. Morgan, Dr. Gale, and Captain Magee.[177] They had both nearly recovered their health, and entertained the liveliest sense of the eminent politeness and hospitality which had been conferred on them by the above named gentlemen, as well as the other officers of the military expedition.

About one hundred Otoes, together with a deputation of the Ioway nation, who had been summoned to a council by Major O'Fallon, presented themselves at our camp on the 3d of October. The principal chiefs advanced before their people, and upon invitation seated themselves. After a short interval of silence Shonga-tonga, the Big Horse, a large portly Indian of a commanding presence, arose and said, "My father, your children have come to dance before your tent, agreeably to our custom of honouring brave or distinguished persons."

After a suitable reply, by Major O'Fallon, the amusement of dancing was commenced by the striking up of their rude instrumental and vocal music; the former consisting of a gong made of a large keg, over one of the ends of which a skin was stretched, which was struck by a small stick; and another instrument, consisting of a stick of firm wood, notched like a saw, over the teeth of which a smaller[pg231] stick was rubbed forcibly backward and forward; with these, rude as they were, very good time was preserved with the vocal performers who sat around them, and by all the natives as they sat in the inflection of their bodies, or the movements of their limbs; after the lapse of a little time three individuals leaped up and danced around for a few minutes, then, at a concerted signal from the master of the ceremonies, the music ceased, and they retired to their seats uttering a loud noise, which by patting the mouth rapidly with the hand, was broken into a succession of similar sounds, somewhat like the hurried barking of a dog. Several sets {141} of dancers succeeded, each terminating as the first. In the intervals of the dances, a warrior would step forward and strike a flagstaff they had erected with a stick, whip, or other weapon, and recount his martial deeds. This ceremony is called striking the post, and whatever is then said may be relied upon as rigid truth, being delivered in the presence of many a jealous warrior and witness, who could easily detect and would immediately disgrace the striker for exaggeration or falsehood. This is called the beggars' dance, during which some presents are always expected by the performers, as tobacco, whiskey, or trinkets. But on this occasion, as none of those articles were immediately offered, the amusement was not, at first, distinguished by much activity. The master of the ceremonies continually called aloud to them to exert themselves; but still they were somewhat dull and backward. Ietan now stepped forward and lashed a post with his whip, declaring that he would thus punish those who did not dance; this threat from one whom they had vested with authority for this occasion had a manifest effect upon his auditors, who were presently[pg232] highly wrought up by the sight of two or three little mounds of tobacco twist which were now laid before them, and appeared to infuse new life.

After lashing the post and making his threat, Ietan went on to narrate his martial exploits. He had stolen horses seven or eight times from the Konzas; he had first struck the bodies of three of that nation slain in battle. He had stolen horses from the Ietan nation, and had struck one of their dead. He had stolen horses from the Pawnees, and struck the body of one Pawnee Loup. He had stolen horses several times from the Omawhaws, and once from the Puncas. He had struck the bodies of two Sioux. On a war party, in company with the Pawnees, he had attacked the Spaniards and penetrated into one of their camps; the Spaniards, {142} excepting a man and boy, fled; himself being at a distance before his party, he was shot at and missed by the man, whom he immediately shot down and struck. "This, my father," said he, "is the only martial act of my life that I am ashamed of."[178] After several rounds of dancing, and of striking at the post by the warriors, Mi-a-ke-ta, or the Little Soldier, a war-worn veteran, took his turn to strike the post. He leaped actively about, and strained his voice to its utmost pitch whilst he portrayed some of the scenes of blood in[pg233] which he had acted. He had struck dead bodies of individuals of all the red nations around, Osages, Konzas, Pawnee Loups, Pawnee Republicans, Grand Pawnees, Puncas, Omawhaws, and Sioux, Padoucas, La Plais or Bald Heads, Ietans, Sauks, Foxes, and Ioways;[179] he had struck eight of one nation, seven of another, &c. He was proceeding with his account when Ietan ran up to him, put his hand upon his mouth, and respectfully led him to his seat. This act was no trifling compliment paid to the well-known brave. It indicated that he had still so many glorious acts to speak of, that he would occupy so much time as to prevent others from speaking, and put to shame the other warriors by the contrast of his actions with theirs.

Their physical action in dancing is principally confined[pg234] to leaping a small distance from the ground with both feet, the body being slightly inclined, and upon alighting, an additional slight but sudden inclination of the body is made, so as to appear like a succession of jerks; or the feet are raised alternately, the motions of the body being the same. Such are the movements, in which the whole party correspond; but in the figures, as they are termed in our assembly rooms, each individual performs a separate part, and each part is a significant pantomimic narrative. In all their variety of action they are careful to observe the musical cadences. In this dance Ietan represented one who was in the act of stealing {143} horses. He carried a whip in his hand, as did a considerable number of the Indians, and around his neck were thrown several leathern thongs, for bridles and halters, the ends of which trailed upon the ground behind him; after many preparatory manoeuvres, he stooped down, and with his knife represented the act of cutting the hopples of horses; he then rode his tomahawk, as children ride their broomsticks, making such use of his whip as to indicate the necessity of rapid movement lest his foes should overtake him. Wa-sa-ba-jing-ga, or Little Black Bear, after a variety of gestures, threw several arrows in succession over his head, thereby indicating his familiarity with the flight of such missiles; he at the same time covered his eyes with his hand to indicate that he was blind to danger. Others represented their manoeuvres in battle, seeking their enemy, discharging at him their guns or arrows, &c. &c. Most of the dancers were the principal warriors of the nation, men who had not condescended to amuse themselves or others in this manner for years before; but they now appeared in honour of the occasion, and to conciliate[pg235] in the best manner the good will of the representative of the government of the Big-knives.[180] Amongst these veteran warriors Ietan, or Sha-mon-e-kus-se, Ha-she-a, the broken arm, commonly called Cut Nose, and Wa-sa-ba-jing-ga, or Little Black Bear, three youthful leaders, in particular attracted our attention. In consequence of having been appointed soldiers on this occasion, to preserve order, they were painted entirely black. The countenance of the former indicated much wit, and had in its expression something of the character of that of Voltaire; he frequently excited the mirth of those about him by his remarks and gestures. Ha-she-a, called Cut Nose, in consequence of having lost the tip of his nose in a quarrel[181] with Ietan, wore a handsome robe of white wolf skin, with an appendage behind him, called a crow. This singular decoration is a large cushion, made of the skin of a crow, {144} stuffed with any light material, and variously ornamented; it has two decorated sticks projecting from it upward, and a pendant one beneath; this apparatus is secured upon the buttocks by a girdle passing round the body. The other actors in the scene were decorated with paints of several colours fantastically disposed upon their persons. Several were painted with white clay, which had the appearance of being grooved in many places. This grooved appearance is given by drawing the finger nails over the part so as to[pg236] remove the pigment from thence in parallel lines. These lines are either rectilinear, undulated, or zigzag; sometimes passing over the forehead transversely or vertically; sometimes in the same directions, or obliquely over the whole visage, or upon the breast, arms, &c. Many were painted with red clay, in which the same lines appeared. A number of them had the representation of a black hand with outspread fingers, on different parts of the body, strongly contrasting with the principal colour with which the body was overspread; the hand was depicted in different positions upon the face, breast, and back. The face of others was coloured, one half black, and one half white, or red and white, &c.; many coloured their hair with red clay; but the eye-lids and base of the ears were generally tinged with vermilion. At the conclusion of the ceremony, whiskey, which they always expect on similar occasions, was produced, and a small portion was given to each. The principal chiefs of the different nations, who had remained passive spectators of the scene, now directed their people to return to their camp. The word of the chiefs was obeyed, excepting by a few of the Ioways, who appeared to be determined to keep their places notwithstanding the reiterated command of the chiefs. Ietan now sprang towards them, with an expression of much ferocity in his countenance, and it is probable a tragic scene would have been displayed had not the chiefs {145} requested him to use gentle means, and thus he succeeded, after which the chiefs withdrew.

October 4th. At ten o'clock, the hour appointed for the council, the Indians, headed by their chiefs, arrived; and after shaking us all by the hand took their seats. There were about one hundred Otoes, seventy Missouries,[pg239] and fifty or sixty Ioways. They arranged themselves, agreeably to their tribes, on puncheon benches, which had been prepared for them, and which described a semicircle, on the chord of which sat the whites, with Major O'Fallon and his interpreters in the centre. Sentinels walked to and fro behind the benches; and a handsome standard waved before the assembly. The council was opened by a few rounds from the howitzers. A profound silence reigned for a few minutes, when Major O'Fallon arose, and in a very animated and energetic manner addressed his Indian auditors. Suitable replies were given by Shonga-tonga, the Crenier, and others, with all the extravagant gesticulation which is one of the prominent features of Indian oratory.

At the termination of the council, presents were made of blankets, kettles, strouding, tobacco, guns, powder, and ball, &c. The Big Horse and the Crenier only were acknowledged as chiefs, and to the latter, who did not possess a large medal, one was given in exchange for a smaller one which he possessed. No chief was acknowledged amongst the Missouries, as it is the wish of Major O'Fallon to extinguish as much as possible national prejudices between these two nations or tribes.

Cut Nose now presented to the agent his crow and bison robe ornamented with hieroglyphicks. The Little Black Bear presented his robe of white wolf and bison skin, and a pair of handsome leggings. The Black Bird presented a robe and the serrated instrument of music before mentioned, observing, significantly, that the latter was then the only weapon {146} he possessed with which he could defend his father.

October 5th. Last evening Loutre, an old Missouri[pg240] Indian died; he had spoken in the council a few hours before, and remarked then that he had not long to live. He was buried without ceremony near the trading house.

October 9th. Messengers who had been sent yesterday for the Pawnees returned, having met with them on the Elk Horn creek, twenty-five miles distant, on their way hither.[182] They arrived about noon, seventy in number, consisting of individuals of each of the three tribes, called Grand Pawnees, Pawnee Republicans, and Pawnee Loups, or Pawnemahas, and halted at some distance from our camp. As we approached them we observed the majority of them standing in a forest of young willow trees, holding their mules by the bridles, and looking dubiously around. The chief of the principal band, Long Hair, was haranguing them in a loud voice, "Take off your saddles; why do you stand peeping and trembling in the bushes? you ought to have trembled when the whites were seen near the Konza village, &c." We saluted the principal men in the usual manner of shaking by the hand, though not with much cordiality. Major O'Fallon then said, "Pawnees, encamp here and smoke your pipes in security; you have conducted yourselves badly, but the whites will not harm the red-skins when they have them thus in their power; we fight in the plains, and scorn to injure men seated peaceably by their fires. Think well of what you will have to say to me in council to-morrow." These assurances appeared to annul their present apprehensions, and they proceeded to encamp.

Three boats came from Camp Missouri to take on board[pg241] a quantity of provisions which are stored here for the troops; we exchanged salutes with them. The noise of the artillery excited the apprehensions of the {147} Indians; who, being sensible of having grossly offended the whites, now anticipated some exemplary punishment, and were not at ease until reassured of their safety, and the cause of the firing of such great guns so near them was explained.

In the evening, accompanied by several gentlemen of the party, we visited the camp of the Pawnees, whom we found sitting round their fires, smoking their pipes in silence. Some were employed in making bows, having found plenty of hickory, and hop horn beam wood here, which are not to be procured in the vicinity of their villages. Their mules were tied to trees, feeding on the bark of the cotton wood. The three tribes were seated around different fires. We sat down in the group of Grand Pawnees, and smoked with their chief Tar-ra-re-ca-wa-o, or Long Hair. This [is] an hereditary chief, of a lofty and rather haughty mien; his mouth is, perhaps through habit, drawn down a little at the corners. He has the appearance and character of an intrepid man, although not distinguished as a warrior, having, during his life, killed but a single man, who was a Spaniard. He is, however, artful and politic, and has performed some laudable actions. The following anecdote may serve in part to illustrate the more amiable traits of his character. Dorion, a Mestizo,[183] on a trading expedition, had accumulated a considerable quantity of peltry, at the Pawnee republican village, when it was situated on the Republican fork of the Konza river.[pg242] As he had no horses to transport his merchandize, he requested the chief of that village to assist him in conveying it to the Grand Pawnees on the Platte, as he intended to descend that river to trade with the Otoes, on his way to St. Louis; the chief directly ordered horses to be brought, the furs were packed upon them, and they departed on the journey; but owing to some alleged misconduct on the part of Dorion, the chief, when half way, ordered the goods to be taken from the horses, and to be left on the plain. {148} He then, with his followers, returned to his village. The trader, after bewailing his unfortunate condition, at length resolved to go to the Grand Pawnee village and solicit the aid of Long Hair. Having arrived at the residence of the chief, he related to him in what manner he had been used by the Republican chief, and concluded by requesting assistance to bring in his goods. Long Hair, without reply, ascended to the top of his lodge and called out to his people to bring him one hundred horses. Taking the best of these, and a sufficient number of attendants, he accompanied Dorion, and assisted him to transport all his peltries, and did not cease with his good offices, until he had aided him in building a skin canoe, and had packed all the merchandize aboard, although previously told by Dorion that he had nothing to reward him with, having, as he said, traded every thing away, though at the same moment he had a number of Indian goods concealed in his packs of buffalo robes. After all was completed, "Now," said the chief, "Dorion, I know that you are a bad man; I have no doubt but you have a quantity of such goods as we want, concealed in those packs, and could reward me if you were liberal enough; but I ask nothing: you have a forked tongue. You have abused me to the whites, by[pg243] calling me a rascal, saying I robbed the traders, &c.; but go, I will not harm you; tell the red head (Governor Clarke) that I am a rascal, robber, &c., I am content."[184]

At another fire, surrounded by his particular band, sat the Knife Chief, La-che-le-cha-ru, principal chief of the Pawneemahas. He is a large portly man, with a very prepossessing countenance; the hair on the sides of his head is gray; he has a deep scar on the right side, from a wound which was inflicted by a female prisoner, of the Padouca nation, whom he had adopted and taken into his family. This squaw, becoming infuriated at the prospect of the state of slavery to which she supposed herself now reduced, {149} stabbed her child to the heart, mortally wounded the brother of this chief, and, before she could be despatched, had inflicted this wound, through which the bowels protruded. The individuals of this band live in great harmony amongst themselves, owing probably to their having but two chiefs, who are unrivalled. The second chief is a Mestizo. Against this band we have no accusation; they have always demeaned themselves well towards the American whites.

In a third group were collected the representatives of the Pawnee Republicans; this nation or clan stands accused of whipping, robbing, and otherwise abusing a white American and his son, whom they found trapping beaver on the Arkansa river, this season; of killing two American citizens, two years since, who were also trapping beaver on the same river; and of robbing our party of sundry articles and horses, near the Konza village, whilst under[pg244] the protection of the flag of our country, of the nature of which they had been instructed, and perfectly well understood. These outrages, and many others, they had committed on lands, to which they do not pretend to have any claim, situated far from their own territories, and in the immediate vicinity of nations with whom they then were, and still are, at war.[185]

On the following day the Pawnees were summoned to council, and in a short time they appeared marching leisurely in a narrow pathway, in Indian file, led by the grand chief; near this pathway the musical band was stationed, and when Long Hair arrived opposite, they struck up, suddenly and loudly, a martial air. We wished to observe the effect which instruments, that he had never seen or heard before, would produce on this distinguished man, and therefore {150} eyed him closely, and were not disappointed to observe that he did not deign to look upon them, or to manifest, by any motion whatever, that he was sensible of their presence. The Indians arranged themselves on the benches prepared for them, and the cessation of the music was succeeded by stillness, which was suddenly interrupted by loud explosions from our howitzers, that startled many of us, but did not appear to attract the notice of the Pawnees.

Major O'Fallon rose and addressed them in a very austere tone and manner; stating the offences they had committed against the white people, and admonishing them to a reformation in their conduct, and to restore the articles they had stolen from us; this was chiefly directed[pg247] against the Pawnee Republicans; the Loups were applauded for their uniformly good deportment.

The council terminated after much of the property taken from us near the Konza village was restored, and a promise given that the offenders should be punished by whipping.[186]

The leisure we enjoyed after our arrival at Engineer Cantonment, afforded the opportunity of making numerous excursions to collect animals, and to explore the neighbouring country. We give here some account of two species of sorex, taken near our cabins.[187]

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Early in October the cabins for winter-quarters were completed. Having made arrangements for the subsistence of the party, and being about to return to Washington, Major Long issued orders to the officers and gentlemen of the expedition, for their government during his absence. The following extract will show to what objects they were instructed to direct their attention.

On the 11th of October, Major Long and Mr. Jessup took leave of their friends at Engineer Cantonment, and [pg250] accompanied by several other persons, began to descend the Missouri in a canoe, on their way towards Washington and Philadelphia.