| I. |
|
| A state of bliss—Cabin passenger—Honey-hunting—Sea-life—Its effects—Green horns—Reading—Tempicide—Monotony—Wish for excitement—Superlative misery—Log—Combustible materials—Cook and bucket—Contrary winds—All ready, good Sirs—Impatient passengers—Signal for sailing—Leave-takings—Sheet home—Under weigh. | 13 |
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| II. |
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| A tar's headway on land—A gentleman's at sea—An agreeable trio —Musical sounds—Helmsman—Supper Steward—A truism—Helmsman's cry—Effect—Cases for bipeds—Lullaby—Sleep. | 20 |
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| III. |
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| Shakspeare—Suicide or a 'foul' deed—A conscientious table—Fishing smacks—A pretty boy—Old Skipper, Skipper junior, and little Skipper—A young Caliban—An alliterate Man—Fisherman— Nurseries—Navy—The Way to train up a Child—Gulf Stream—Humboldt —Crossing the Gulf—Ice ships—Yellow fields—Flying fish—A game at bowls—Bermuda—A post of observation—Men, dwellings, and women of Bermuda—St. George—English society—Washing decks—Mornings at sea—Evenings at sea—A Moonlight scene—The ocean on fire—Its phosphorescence—Hypotheses | 25 |
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| IV. |
|
Land—Abaco—Fleet—Hole in the Wall—A wrecker's hut—Bahama vampyres—Light houses—Conspiracy—Wall of Abaco—Natural
Bridge—Cause—Night scene—Speak a packet ship—A floating city—Wrecker's lugger—Signal of distress—A Yankee lumber brig—Portuguese Man of War. | 42 |
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| V. |
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| A calm—A breeze on the water—The land of flowers—Juan Ponce de Leon—The fountain of perpetual youth—An irremediable loss to single gentlemen—Gulf Stream—New-Providence—Cuba—Pan of Matanzas—Blue hills of Cuba—An armed cruiser—Cape St. Antonio—Pirates—Enter the Mexican Gulf—Mobile—A southern winter—A farewell to the North and a welcome to the South—The close of the voyage—Balize—Fleet—West Indiaman—Portuguese polacre—Land ho!—The land—Its formation—Pilot or "little brief authority"—Light house—Revenue cutter—Newspapers—"The meeting of the waters"—A singular appearance—A morning off the Balize—The tow-boat | 55 |
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| VI. |
|
| The Mississippi—The Whale—Description of tow-boats—A package—A threatened storm—A beautiful brigantine—Physiognomy of ships—Richly furnished cabin—An obliging Captain—Desert the ship—Getting under weigh—A chain of captives—Towing—New-Orleans—A mystery to be unraveled. | 64 |
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| VII. |
|
| Louisiana—Arrival at New-Orleans—Land—Pilot stations—Pilots— Anecdote—Fort—Forests—LevÉe—Crevasses—Alarms—Accident— Espionage—A Louisianian palace—Grounds—Sugar-house—Quarters —An African governess—Sugar-Cane—St. Mary—"English Turn"— Cavalcade—Battle-ground—Music Sounds of the distant city—Land in New-Orleans—An amateur sailor. | 73 |
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| VIII. |
|
| Bachelor's comforts—A valuable valet—Disembarked at the LevÉe —A fair Castilian—Canaille—The Crescent city—Reminiscence of school days—French cabarets—Cathedral—Exchange—Cornhill—A chain of light—A fracas—Gens d'Armes—An affair of honour—Arrive at our hotel | 87 |
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| IX. |
|
| Sensations on seeing a city for the first time—Capt. Kidd—Boston— Fresh feelings—An appreciated luxury—A human medley—School for physiognomists—A morning scene in New-Orleans—Canal street—LevÉe—French and English stores—Parisian and Louisianian pronunciation—Scenes in the market—Shipping—A disguised rover—Mississippi fleets—Ohio river arks—Slave laws. | 96 |
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| X. |
|
| First impressions—A hero of the "Three Days"—Children's ball—Life in New-Orleans—A French supper—Omnibuses—Chartres street at twilight—Calaboose—Guard house—The vicinage of a theatre—French cafÉs—Scenes in the interior of a cafÉ—Dominos—Tobacco smokers—New- Orleans society. | 108 |
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| XI. |
|
| Interior of a ball room—Creole ladies—Infantile dancers—French children—American children—A singular division—New-Orleans ladies—Northern and southern beauty—An agreeable custom—Leave the assembly room—An olio of languages—The Exchange—Confusion of tongues—Temples of Fortune. | 117 |
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| XII. |
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| The Goddess of fortune—Billiard rooms—A professor—Hells—A respectable banking company—"Black-legs"—Faro described—Dealers —Bank—A novel mode of franking—Roulette table—A supper in Orcus—Pockets to let—Dimly lighted streets—Some things not so bad as they are represented. | 127 |
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| XIII. |
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| A sleepy porter—Cry of fire—Noise in the streets—A wild scene at midnight—A splendid illumination—Steamers wrapped in flames—A river on fire—Firemen—A lively scene—Floating cotton—Boatmen—An ancient Portuguese Charon—A boat race—Pugilists—A hero | 137 |
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| XIV. |
|
| Canal-street—Octagonal church—Government house—Future prospects of New-Orleans—Roman chapel—Mass for the dead—Interior of the chapel—Mourners—Funeral—Cemeteries—Neglect of the dead—English and American grave yards—Regard of European nations for their dead—Roman Catholic cemetery in New-Orleans—Funeral procession—Tombs—Burying in water—Protestant grave-yard. | 145 |
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| XV. |
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| An old friend—Variety in the styles of building—Love for flowers—The basin—Congo square—The African bon-ton of New-Orleans—City canals—Effects of the cholera—Barracks—Guard-houses—The ancient convent of the Ursulines—The school for boys—A venerable edifice—Principal—Recitations—Mode of instruction—Primary department—Infantry tactics—Education in general in New-Orleans. | 158 |
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| XVI. |
|
| Rail-road—A new avenue to commerce—Advantages of the rail-way— Ride to the lake—The forest—Village at the lake—Pier— Fishers—Swimmers—Mail-boat—CafÉs—Return—An unfortunate cow—New- Orleans streets. | 171 |
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| XVII. |
|
| The legislature—Senators and representatives—Tenney—Gurley—Ripley —Good feeling among members—Translated speeches— Ludicrous situations—Slave law—Bishop's hotel—Tower—View from its summit—Bachelor establishments—Peculiar state of society. | 178 |
|
| XVIII. |
|
| Saddle horses and accoutrements—Banks—Granite—Church-members —French mode of dressing—Quadroons—Gay scene and groups in the streets—Sabbath evening—Duelling ground—An extensive cotton press—A literary germ—A mysterious institution—Scenery in the suburbs—Convent—Catholic education. | 186 |
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| XIX. |
|
| Battle-ground—Scenery on the road—A peaceful scene—American and British quarters—View of the field of battle—Breastworks—Oaks—Packenham—A Tennessee rifleman—Anecdote—A gallant British officer—Grape-shot—Young traders—A relic—Leave the ground—A last view of it from the LevÉe. | 196 |
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| XX. |
|
| Scene in a bar room—Affaires d'honneur—A Sabbath morning—Host— Public square—Military parades—Scenes in the interior of a cathedral—Mass—A sanctified family—Crucifix—Different ways of doing the same thing—Altar—Paintings—The Virgin—Females devotees. | 207 |
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| XXI. |
|
| Sabbath in New-Orleans—Theatre—Interior—A New-Orleans audience —Performance—Checks—Theatre d'Orleans—Interior—Boxes— Audience—Play—Actors and actresses—Institutions—M. Poydras— Liberality of the Orleanese—Extracts from Flint upon New-Orleans. | 219 |
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| XXII. |
|
| A drive into the country—Pleasant road—Charming villa—Children at play—Governess—Diversities of society—Education in Louisiana—Visit to a sugar-house—Description of sugar-making, &c.—A plantation scene—A planter's grounds—Children—Trumpeter —Pointer—Return to the city. | 229 |
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| XXIII. |
|
Leave New-Orleans—The Mississippi—Scenery—Evening on the water —Scenes on the deck of a steamer—Passengers—Plantations—Farm- houses—Catholic college—Convent of the Sacred Heart—Caged birds
—Donaldsonville—The first highland—Baton Rouge—Its appearance—Barracks—Scenery—Squatters—Fort Adams—Way passengers—Steamer. | 245 |
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