  CHAPTER I.
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BISCAY. | | PAGE | | Departure from Bayonne, the Bidassoa, and entrance into Spain; Precautions against Robbery; Black Mail, and Anecdote; Charming and novel Scenery; Mail Travelling in Spain; Vittoria; Spanish Bread; Priests; the Spanish Cloak; Women; Arrival of the Infante Don Francis; a National Trait; Spanish Money and Expense of Travelling; Journey through Biscay to Bilbao; Chocolate; the Plain of Vittoria; Passage of the Biscayan Mountains; Durango; a Village Misfortune; Biscayan Recreation; the Muleteer’s Song; Bilbao; Traits of Spanish Character; Markets; Biscayan Political and Religious Opinions; State of the Inhabitants, and Mode of Life; Riches of the Corporation of Bilbao; Prices of Provisions; the Campo Santo; the Iglesia de Bigonia and its Superstitions; Trait of Spanish Pride and Generosity; the Convents and their Inmates; the Hospital; curious Customs, and extraordinary scene in a Coffee House; Improvement of Land in Biscay, Climate, Disease, &c.; peculiar Rights and Privileges of Biscay | 1 | CHAPTER II.
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JOURNEY FROM BISCAY TO MADRID. | | Waggon Travelling; Scenery; Bills of Fare, and Expenses; Second Visit to Vittoria; Departure for Madrid; the Ebro; Privileges of the Military; Old Castile; Husbandry; Burgos; Beggars; Posadas; Traits of Misery in a Castilian Village; New Castile; Quixotic Adventure; the Somo-Sierra, and Approach to the Capital; Sketches of the Environs, and Arrival in Madrid; Information for Travellers. | 44 | CHAPTER III.
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MADRID. | | Streets and Street Population; Female Dress: the Mantilla; the Fan; Aspect of the Streets of Madrid at different hours; the Siesta; Shops; Good and Bad Smells; State of the Lower Orders; Analysis of the Population; Street Sketches; Sunday in Madrid; the Calle de Alcala; Convents; the Street of the Inquisition; Private Apartments in Madrid; the Prado and its Attractions; Ludicrous Incongruities; Spanish Women, and their Claims; the Fan and its Uses; Portraits; Inconvenient Exaction of Loyalty; the Philosophy of Good Walking; the Retiro; Castilian Skies; the CafÉ Catalina and its Visitors; other Coffee Rooms, and Political Reflections; the Botanical Garden, strange Regulation on entering; the Theatres; Spanish Play Bills; Teatro del Principe; the Cazuela and Intrigue; Spanish Comedy; the Bolero; the Italian Company; Cultivation of Music in Madrid; the Guitar; Vocal Music; Spanish Music | 65 | CHAPTER IV.
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MADRID. | | The King, Queen, and Royal Family; Personal Appearance of Ferdinand; a Royal Jeu d’esprit; the King’s Confidence in the People, and Examples; Character of the King; a Carlist’s Opinion of the King; Favourites,—Calomarde,—Alegon,—Salsedo,—the Duque d’Higar; Rising Influence of the Queen; Habits of the Royal Family; Court Diversions; Rivalry of Don Carlos; the Queen’s Accouchement, and Views of Parties; Detection of a Carlist Plot; the Salic Law; Court Society; Persons of Distinction, and Ministerial Tertulias; Habits and Manner of Life of the Middle Classes; a Spanish House, and its Singular Defences; Abstemiousness of the Spaniards; Evening and Morning Visits; Balls and Spanish Dancing; Character of Spanish Hospitality; Spanish Generosity and its Origin; Examples of Ostentation; Morals; Gallantry and Intrigue; the Morals of the Lower Orders; Religious Opinions in the Capital, and Decline of the Priestly Influence; Jesuitical Education; the Influence of the Friars; Causes of the Decline of Priestly Influence, and the Continuance of that of the Friars; Convent Secrets; Curious ExposÉ at Cadiz; Devotion in Madrid | 112 | CHAPTER V.
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MADRID. | | The Profession of a Nun; Reflections; Description of the Interior of a Convent; the Monastic Life; Description of a Bull-Fight; Sketches of Spanish Character; a Horse Race | 168 | CHAPTER VI.
—— | | Memoir of Murillo | 203 | CHAPTER VII.
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MADRID. | | The Picture Gallery; the Works of Murillo; the Annunciation; the Virgin Instructed by her Mother; Landscapes; Velasquez and his Works; Meeting of Bacchanalians; the Forges of Vulcan; EspaÑoletto and his Works; Villavicencio; Juanes; Alonzo Cano; Cerezo; Morales; Juanes’ Last Supper; the Modern Spanish School; Aparicio; the Famine in Madrid; Italian Gallery; Flemish School; the Sala Reservada; Statuary; Cabinet of Natural History; Sala Reservada; the Patrician’s Dream; the DesengaÑo de la Vida; Private Collections; the Duke of Liria’s Gallery; Churches and Convents; Church of San Isodro; San Salvador; Santa Maria; San Gines; Santiago; San Antonio de Florida; Convent of Las Salesas; de la Encarnation; the Franciscans; Santa Isabella; Hidden Pictures; San Pasqual; Santa Teresa; the Palace. | 233 | CHAPTER VIII.
—— | | Literature; Difficulties to be encountered by Authors; the Book Fair; Digression respecting the Claims of Spain to Gil Blas; Public and Private Literary Societies; Libraries; Obstacles to Improvement, from the State of Society; Female Education; Education for the Liberal Professions; Course of Study for the Bar; Course of Medical Studies; Charitable Institutions; Consumption of Madrid; Prices of Provisions. | 265 | CHAPTER IX.
—— | | State of Parties, and Political Prospects. | 293 | CHAPTER X.
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THE ESCURIAL—ST. ILDEFONSO—SEGOVIA. | | Journey from Madrid; First View of the Escurial; Philip II.; Situation of the Escurial; the Church; Lucas Jordan; the Relics; the Santa Forma; the Sacristy and its Pictures; a Reverie; the Hall of Recreation; the Library; the Tomb of
SPAIN IN 1830.
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