A priest, with whom I was acquainted in Madrid, telling me one day, that he had thoughts of going to London or Paris, to print an English and Spanish Grammar, and a German and Spanish Grammar, which he had written; I asked him why he did not print them in Madrid, since they were intended for the use of his own countrymen,—especially as they could contain nothing political? His answer was, that nothing was so difficult as to obtain a license to publish a book, even although it contained no allusion to politics: and “the better the book,” said he, “the more difficult it is to obtain a license, and the more dangerous to publish; because Government does not wish to encourage writing, or even thinking, upon any subject: and the publication of a good book sets men a-thinking.”

This comprehensive reply explains, pretty nearly, the present state of literature in Spain; judging of it by the number and merit of published works:

The number of books published, from 1820 to 1823, was very considerable. The energy then communicated to letters, from the removal of almost all restriction, was extraordinary: books upon all subjects issued from the press; and the best proof, perhaps, that can be given, that many of these were books of talent, is, that most of them are now prohibited. Literature, however, then received an impetus, which still continues in some degree to affect it, notwithstanding the difficulties to be overcome: for there is a considerably greater number of books published now, than previous to the revolution; and no reasonable doubt can be entertained, that another removal of the restrictions which press upon literature, would bring into the field a large accession of native talent.

Even after a license has been obtained to publish a manuscript, its publication is still a dangerous speculation; because it frequently happens, that when the book is printed, and partly circulated, some great man, even more fastidious than the censors, discovers a dubious passage, and the book is prohibited. There are four difficulties, therefore, which an author must resolve to face, before he sits down to prepare his manuscript:—the probability that he may be refused a license; the probability that, before being licensed, his manuscript may be mutilated—a probability that, I am told, amounts almost to a certainty, unless the work be upon one of the exact sciences; the probability that, after the work be published, some caprice may forbid its sale; and the certainty, that if the work be a talented work, the author of it, whether obtaining his license or no, will be looked upon with suspicion; and, if in Government employment, will almost certainly lose his appointment.

These are sad drawbacks upon literary exertion. But there is yet another: men are afraid to read, as well as to write; and the sale of a work is therefore insecure. Book-sellers do not care to venture upon the publication without some guarantee; the consequence of which is, that almost every book published in Spain, is published by subscription, or in numbers, or both in numbers and by subscription; by either of which modes the risk is lessened. What should we say in England of bills posted about the streets, announcing a new novel to be published by subscription, and in numbers? Yet I saw an announcement of this kind, of a novel to be called El Dissimulador—the Dissembler. But the greater number of books at present published in Spain, are translations from French and English, adapted, of course, to the Spanish censorship. I noticed the following announcements, by bills posted on the walls:—“Universal History,” from the French, in numbers: “the History of Spain,” a new edition, in numbers: “the History of Spanish America,” an original work, in numbers. This manuscript I should think must have been sadly carved. The following were announced by subscription:—“Selections from French and English Literature;” “Church History;” “Chateaubriand’s Holy Land;” “the History of the Administration of Lord North,” a singular enough choice; “the History of the English Regicides;” “the Works of Fenelon;” a new edition of “Gil Blas;” “Evelina;” and while I was in Madrid, proposals were circulated for publishing by subscription, and in numbers, the whole prose works of Sir Walter Scott. I heard of one voluminous, and rather important work, about to be published by a society called “the Academy of History,” viz., all “the inscriptions in Greek and Latin, now extant, throughout Spain.” The Arabic inscriptions are not included in the work, these being already collected and printed.

Although the Spanish government endeavours by every means to repress intelligence, and thwart the progress of knowledge, there is no lack of books in Spain, to those who will, and dare to read them. This is indeed done under the rose; but it is done. There are two libraries in Madrid, which contain the best French authors; and persons who are known to the librarian, or recommended to him, may obtain almost any prohibited book. I had personal proof of this. Sitting one morning with a lady connected with the royalist party, but a woman of very liberal views, and one of the few blue-stockings of Madrid, I was compassionating the situation of those who, like herself, were lovers of literature, but who were denied the means of gratifying their taste. The lady assured me she had no need of my compassion upon this score, for that she might have any French author she chose, and many English authors, from the library of——. And when I expressed some surprise at this, she desired me to fix upon any celebrated books that occurred to me, and they should be put into my hands in less than half an hour. I chose accordingly; and in ten minutes, I had in my hands a Paris edition of “the Social Compact,” and the Basil edition of “Gibbon’s Historical Work.” Books, therefore, may be had; but persons are afraid to have and to read them.

A considerable number of prohibited books slip into circulation at the time of the fair. I was then in Madrid, and spent a few hours each day strolling among the booths and stalls, and talking with the vendors of goods. Every kind of article is exposed at this fair,—clothes, calicoes, jewellery, toys, hardware, china, but especially books and pictures. The books were innumerable; and their high prices seemed to be an index to a good demand; and yet I thought that, on the last day of the fair, the shelves were but little relieved of their burden: probably, however, the book merchants had other copies to replace those that were sold. The books were of all descriptions; but the most numerous class, was theological and religious; particularly the lives of saints, who have all their biographers. The next most numerous class was history; chiefly histories connected with Spain and America. Then followed Spanish plays, and Spanish novels. After these, Spanish translations from French and English works. And lastly, books in foreign languages. Among the Spanish translations from English works, I noticed many copies of Blair’s Lectures, Clarissa Harlowe, and Goldsmith’s Roman History. Among the books in English, I observed Bell’s Surgery, the Life of Wellington, and Lady Morgan’s Italy, whose English dress had blinded the eyes of the Inquisitors, who looked very scrutinizingly at the stalls. I saw several copies of Machiavelli,—a prohibited book, I believe,—and one Bible in 14 volumes, with notes by a Dominican friar, which I have no doubt are sufficiently curious.

I questioned the book-vendors, as to the demand, and in what current it ran. They informed me, that the demand for religious books was on the decline; and that the lives of saints especially, were almost unmarketable. Translation from French and English, especially the former, and even works in the French language, were asked for; the demand was also large and constant, for the Spanish dramatists and novels; especially Don Quixotte and Gil Blas, which were to be seen on every stall, in great numbers, and of various editions. I opened several copies of Gil Blas, and found the title-page invariably in these words,—“Aventuras de Gil Blas de Santillana, robadas Á EspaÑa, y adoptadas en Francia por M. Le Sage; restituidas Á su patria y À su lengua nativa per un EspaÑol zeloso que no sufre se burlen de su nacion.” This is a point upon which the Spanish nation is very jealous; every educated person stoutly maintaining, that to Spain belongs the honour of having produced Gil Blas. It is evident, that in the dispute between France and Spain, regarding their respective claims to Gil Blas, the proofs must be drawn from the internal evidence afforded by the work itself. The only direct proofs that could be obtained, would be the production of the original manuscript. This however must lie upon the French; because if any plausible reason exist for supposing, that the Spanish manuscript got into the hands of Le Sage, the Spanish manuscript of course cannot be produced; and the French must produce their French manuscript. That this has never been done, seems to afford a prim facie evidence in favour of the Spanish claims; especially if, as I believe to be the case, the internal evidence be also in favour of Spain. The belief that Gil Blas is a French work, and the work of Le Sage, is so universal, and I feel so perfect a conviction that this belief is erroneous, that I cannot allow this opportunity to escape, of introducing a short digression upon the subject.

The Spanish statement is this: that Don Antonio de Solis, a well-known Spanish author, wrote in 1665 a romance, entitled “Aventuras del Bachiller de Salamanca, Ó Historia de Don Querubim de la Ronda;” that Solis could not publish this in Spain, owing to its containing many allusions to persons then existing; and that Hugo, Marquess of Lionne, ambassador from France at the Spanish court, who was a man of letters, purchased not only a library of Spanish poets and dramatists, but also many manuscripts, which were afterwards seen in the library of the Marquess’s third son; that it is known that this son, Julio de Lionne, was intimately allied in friendship with M. Le Sage, and by him the manuscript of the Bachelor of Salamanca, “Don Querubim de la Ronda,” was confided to Le Sage, who divided the work, making from it the Adventures of Gil Blas, and the Bachelor of Salamanca. These assertions afford a presumption; but no more. At the same time, it cannot escape observation, that a complete refutation of these assertions, or at least of the result drawn from them, would be, the production by the heirs of M. Le Sage, of the manuscript, either of Gil Blas, or the Bachelor of Salamanca. But there are many proofs drawn from the work itself, strongly supporting the presumption afforded by the tale told by the Spaniards. Of these I shall state a few:—1st. There are many French words and phrases, which do not correspond with the usual elegance of Le Sage’s style, and which have the appearance of being literal translations of Spanish words and phrases. 2nd. There are innumerable Spanish proper names in Le Sage’s work, and particularly small villages, of which no foreigner could know the names, still less their geographical position. 3rd. We find in Gil Blas a variety of particular circumstances, usages, and habits, peculiar to Spanish provincial life, of which no stranger could have a sufficient knowledge. 4th. There are in Le Sage’s work innumerable errors in names of persons and towns, seeming to prove, that errors have arisen in copying the Spanish manuscript. The proofs of each of these might extend to a chapter: none of them, taken singly, amount to much; but when considered along with the story told of the manner in which the MS. came into the possession of Le Sage, unanswered, as it is, by the production of any French manuscript; and along with the admitted fact, that several of the incidental stories introduced into Gil Blas are to be found in old Spanish romances,—a strong conviction is produced, that Gil Blas is a Spanish, and not a French work.

A strange enough answer was made by the Count de Neufchateau, member of the French academy, to the assertion that Le Sage had availed himself of the Spanish manuscript. He said, Le Sage would not have taken to himself the merit of having written Gil Blas, if the work had been composed from the manuscript of another; and the reason he gives for his confidence in Le Sage’s honour is, that he did not hesitate to acknowledge his other plagiarisms. He acknowledged that he took from Spanish authors “the New Adventures of Don Quixotte,” published by him in 1735; “The Devil upon Two Sticks,” published in 1732; “The Adventures of Guzman de Alfarache,” published in 1707; “The Life and Doings of Estavanillo Gonzalez,” published in 1734; and “The Bachelor of Salamanca,” published in 1738. What the force of this argument is, I leave the reader to judge.

But to return from this digression. Private literary associations are out of the question in Spain: several were set on foot in 1821-22; but after the return of the king, any thing of this kind was known to be so obnoxious, that these societies dissolved themselves, without waiting for any express order to that effect. Two public institutions only, connected with literature, exist at present. Like every other institution in Spain, they are Real, and therefore under the surveillance of government;—their names are, “The Royal Spanish Academy,” and “The Royal Academy of History.” The object of the first of these, is to perfect the Castilian language; and with this view they have published two excellent works, a Dictionary and a Grammar, besides a treatise on Orthography, and several smaller writings. The object of the Academy of History is to separate truth from falsehood in the history of Spain, and to collect all that may throw light upon the ancient and modern history, as well as geography, of that country. This society has published an excellent Geographical Dictionary, which has gone through several editions; and is now on the eve of publishing the collection of Inscriptions which I have already mentioned, accompanied by notes.

There is no want of public and valuable libraries in Spain, particularly in Madrid. The two principal of these, are the Royal Library, and the Royal Library of San Isidro. The former, founded by Philip V., was enriched in the reign of Charles III. by the accession of the library of the cardinal Arquinto, purchased in Rome; and in the reign of his successor, Charles IV., by several other libraries; and now amounts to 200,000 volumes. The Royal Library also contains many valuable manuscripts, particularly Arabic; and a rich collection of coins and medals, illustrative of Spanish history. The Spanish press has produced some fine specimens of printing, which are preserved in this library, particularly Don Quixotte and Sallust, both from the press of Ibarra. Besides the library of San Isidro, which contains about 60,000 volumes, there are some excellent libraries in the possession of private persons, particularly the Duke of Osuna, the Duke of Infantado, and the Duke of Medina Coeli: the latter of these was formerly open to the public; but so great public spiritedness looking too much like liberalism, it is now closed.

I have already spoken of the obstacles thrown in the way of knowledge, by the regulations respecting the schools and academies; and the fetters thrown upon education of every kind: these chiefly affect the rising generation; but I may mention, as another cause of the backward state of literature in Spain, the tone of Spanish society. Every Spanish house has its tertulia; and every man, woman, girl, and boy, is a member of one tertulia or another. The introduction to the tertulia begins at a very early age. I have seen boys who, in any other country, would have been in a school-room, or at play, present themselves regularly at the tertulia, and throwing off the character of boys, act the part of grown-up men. This necessity of resorting every night to the tertulia, not only interferes greatly with habits of study, by employing much valuable time,—but the preparatory education for the tertulia, if I may so express myself, is of the most unimproving kind. The foundation of the tertulia is gallantry,—here it is that the Spanish woman, after having reaped a harvest of admiration on the Prado, retires to receive that nearer homage which is prized still higher; and here it is that the Spaniard makes his prelude to future conquest. Gallantry is the business of every Spaniard’s life; his object in frequenting the tertulia, is to practise it; and his principal study, therefore, is that frivolous and gallant conversation that is essential in the first place to captivate the attention of the Spanish woman. The Spanish ladies, with all their agreeable wit and affability, are ignorant almost beyond belief; and in a country where, more than any other in Europe, the society is mixed,—the extreme ignorance of the female sex, and the channel into which conversation must necessarily run every evening of every day throughout the year, cannot fail to have its effect upon the mind, and to act as a drawback upon the desire of knowledge, and literary distinction.

I understand that female education begins to improve; and that besides embroidery and music, a little history and geography are now taught in the schools, but not in the convents; so that the highest classes, who are mostly educated in the convents, are worse educated than the middle classes. While in Madrid, I had the pleasure of being conducted to a girl’s Lancastrian school by its directress, Donna Hurtado de Mendoza, a lady every way worthy of the trust. During the time of the constitution, there were also two Lancastrian schools for boys; but these were suppressed upon the return of the king, who was prevailed upon, however, to allow the school for girls to continue. In the Lancastrian school there are at present 163 pupils, and the system pursued is precisely similar to that followed in England; part of three days every week is dedicated to instruction in the tenets of the Roman Catholic faith.

There is one fact I had nearly forgotten to mention,—a fact somewhat opposed to the narrow policy of the government in its hostility to the progress of literary knowledge. Eight young men, of promising abilities, were lately sent by the Spanish government to different cities to study the various branches of chemistry, with a liberal allowance from the public purse; and his majesty’s gilder was also dispatched to England to make inquiries as to the manner of gilding buttons, and gilding bronze, with an allowance of 18,000 reals; and with another stipulation as to a farther and much larger sum, to be put at his disposal for the purchase of secrets.

In Spain, the education for the liberal professions is tedious and strict, but not expensive. The course of study required of a barrister includes no fewer than thirteen years, besides a previous knowledge of Latin, in which the student is examined before entering any of the law universities. The branches of study which occupy these thirteen years, are, three years of philosophy, which consists of logic, physics, metaphysics, and ethics; and in the first of these years, the outlines of mathematics are taught; but this branch of study is never pursued farther: after this course of philosophy, the theory of Roman law is entered upon, which occupies two years; one year of Spanish law then follows; next, Ecclesiastical law, which occupies two years; and this is all that is required to take the degree of bachelor: but rhetoric, theology, digest of law, and medicine, are required for a higher degree. At the end of each year, examinations are gone through, before granting certificates; and the whole of the instructions are in Latin, excepting rhetoric and Spanish law. The philosophy used, is that of Guebarra. The expense of instruction varies according to the university; at Toledo it is all gratis; at Alcala it costs about 50l. per annum; but many are admitted into the colegios, in which case the student is put to no expense. These colegios are particular foundations, under the patronage of certain great families. The education of an attorney requires only an apprenticeship, and that the candidate should be twenty-five years of age, and have a certificate of good morals; he has also to pass one examination in law. Before any barrister, attorney, or notary, be admitted to practice, he is obliged to swear that he will defend the poor gratis. Thirty are appointed each year from each society to defend the poor in civil cases; and every one is entitled to be put upon the poor list who chooses to swear that he is not worth 4000 reals (40l.); and it is a curious fact, that, in criminal cases, the prisoner is entitled to make choice of any barrister in Madrid to defend him. In Spain they do not understand that celebrated legal fiction, so implicitly believed by some sound heads in England, that the judge is counsel for the prisoner. I learned that the course of justice, or in plainer terms a legal process, is very expensive in Madrid; two-third parts, at least, of every account being absorbed in court dues and stamps.

The Spanish government is not unmindful of the lives and health of its subjects; for medical is even more strict and tedious than legal education.

There are three kinds of medical professors in Spain:—physicians, medico-surgeons, and cirujanos romancistos.

The first of these, after a course of the usual regular scholastic studies, go to the University, where they study anatomy, physiology, pathology, and the different branches of medical education; in which four years are employed. They then go through the hospitals, with professors appointed for the purpose—note down the diseases and their treatment, and submit their notes for revision, to the instructors; this occupies two years: after which they undergo examinations upon the theory and practice of medicine, before being admitted to practice.

The medico-surgeons profess both physic and surgery: they go through the same studies as the physician, adding chirurgical pathology, midwifery, clinica medica, and surgical practice; and are subject to examination upon all these branches.

The third class, the cirujanos romancistos, are literally surgeons who have not studied Latin, and are an inferior class. They are not required to have the same classical education as the others; but must study, and pass examinations in anatomy, physiology, chirurgical pathology, operative surgery, and midwifery. Those belonging to this class of medical practitioners, are forbidden, by a royal edict, from prescribing for inward complaints.

Madrid does not want institutions for the alleviation of bodily infirmity; there being no fewer than thirteen hospitals in the capital. The principal of these are, the General Hospital, which is chiefly supported by the receipts of the bull-fights; and the Hospicio real de San Fernando, which is also a workhouse, and is supported by imposts upon the entry of goods into the city. There is also an Hospital for Illegitimate Children, which receives about 1200 yearly, nearly one-third of the number being foundlings, and which is supported by the lottery; an Orphan Hospital, which supports about 800 orphans; several smaller orphan hospitals; and two lying-in hospitals.

There are also in Madrid, ten different institutions for philanthropic purposes—the succour of the wretched, and the relief of the poor; among these, El Monte de Piedad deserves mention. It is a public establishment, which lends money upon goods, which may be reclaimed at any time during a year, or even longer, in particular cases, upon repayment of the loan without any interest.

Madrid, I have mentioned in the former chapter, is supposed to contain 170,000 inhabitants; but this is partly conjecture,—no census having been lately made. In the year 1790, there died in Madrid 5915 persons; and 4897 were born: and in the year 1810, 3786 persons died; and 5282 were born. The following was the consumption of Madrid, in the year 1825: 230,000 sheep; 12,500 oxen; 70,000 hogs; 2,417,357 arrobas[A] of charcoal; 13,245 arrobas of soap; 40,809 arrobas of oil; 800,000 bushels of corn; 500,000 arrobas of wine; 50,000 arrobas of snow; 30,000 arrobas of candles; and 18,000 bushels of salt: and supposing, as there is reason to believe, that since that time the population of Madrid has increased 5000, the addition of a thirty-fifth part to these sums, will give nearly the present consumption of Madrid.

[A] An arroba is 25lbs. weight.