CORONADO IN 1541—THE BOURGMONT EXPEDITION IN 1724—PERIN DU LAC—LEWIS AND CLARK—FIRST FOURTH OF JULY CELEBRATION—MAJOR STEPHEN H. LONG—CANTONMENT MARTIN—ISLE AU VACHE—OTHER EXPLORERS—PASCHAL PENSONEAU—THE OLD MILITARY ROAD—THE MORMONS.

Some historians (notably General Simpson) in their studies of the famous march of Coronado in search of the land of Quivira, in 1541, have brought the great Spanish explorer to the Missouri river, in northeastern Kansas. The more recent researches of Hodge, Bandalier and Brower, however, have proven beyond question that Coronado’s line of march through Kansas was north from Clark county to the Great Bend of the Arkansas river, and thence to the region northeastward from McPherson to the Kansas river, between the junction of its two main forks and Deep creek, in Riley county, where the long lost province of Quivira was located. Hence, it is no longer even probable that the great Spaniard on this famous march ever saw the Missouri river region in northeastern Kansas, much less to have ever set foot upon the soil of what is now Atchison county, as many have heretofore believed.

The first white men, of whom we have definite record, to visit what is now Atchison county, were those who composed the expedition of Capt. Etienne Vengard de Bourgmont, military commander of the French colony of Louisiana, who, in the summer of 1724, arrived at the Kansa Indian village where Doniphan now stands, crossed what is now Atchison county, and made several encampments on our soil. Leaving the Kansa village at Doniphan on the morning of July 24, en route to the province of the Padoucas, or what is now known as the Comanche tribe of Indians, in north central Kansas, Bourgmont and party marched a league and a half along what is now Deer creek, and went into camp, where they spent the day. The next day they passed Stranger creek, or what they designated “a small river,” and stopped on account of rain, until the 26th, when they proceeded a few miles further, and again went into camp. A thunder-storm, lasting all the afternoon, compelled them to remain encamped here. On the 27th they reached a river, which was doubtless the Grasshopper or Delaware, about four or five miles below Muscotah, where they again camped, and, on the 28th marched out of Atchison county somewhere along the southwest border, in Kapioma township. This strange procession, besides Bourgmont’s force of white men, consisted of 300 Indian warriors, with two grand chiefs and fourteen war chiefs, 300 Indian squaws, 500 Indian children, and 500 dogs, carrying and dragging provisions and equipments. The object of the expedition was to promote a general peace among, and effect an alliance between, the different tribes inhabitating this region. Shortly after leaving Atchison county, Bourgmont was taken very ill, and was obliged to return to Fort Orleans, on the lower Missouri. He was carried back across Atchison county to the Kansa village, on a hand-barrow, and then transported down the Missouri in a canoe. Upon his recovery he resumed his journey to the Padoucas in the fall of 1724, coming back by way of the Kansa village and Atchison county. No doubt other French explorers, traders and trappers, visited this county at an earlier date than did Bourgmont, but information concerning them is vague and uncertain.

Perin du Lac, a French explorer, set foot upon the soil of Atchison county while on an exploring trip up the Missouri in 1802–03. In his journal, published soon after his return to France, Du Lac mentions that “three miles below the old Kances Indian village they perceived some iron ore.” As the “old Kances village” was the one already referred to as having been at Doniphan, the iron ore discovered by Du Lac must have been in Atchison county, somewhere in the vicinity of Luther Dickerson’s old home, where the rocks are known to be strongly impregnated with iron. Du Lac gathered some specimens of the Atchison county ore, which he must have lost, for he says in his journal: “I intended to have assayed it on my return, but an accident unfortunately happening prevented me.”

In the summer of 1804 the famous “Louisiana Purchase exploring expedition” of Lewis and Clark passed up the Missouri river, arriving at the southeast corner of Atchison county on July 3. They passed Isle Au Vache, or Cow Island, opposite Oak Mills, stopped at a deserted trader’s house at or near the site of Port William, where they picked up a stray horse (the first recorded mention of a horse in what is now Atchison county) and camped that night somewhere in the vicinity of Walnut creek. The next morning they announced the “glorious Fourth” with a shot from their gun boat, and there began the first celebration of our Nation’s birthday on Kansas soil. That day they took dinner on the bank of White Clay creek, or what they called “Fourth of July creek.” Here Joe Fields, a member of the party, was bitten by a snake, and Sergeant Floyd, in commemoration of the incident, named the prairie on which Atchison now stands, “Joe Fields’ Snake Prairie.” Above the creek, they state, “was a high mound, where three Indian paths centered, and from which was a very extensive prospect.” This, undoubtedly, was the commanding elevation where the Soldiers’ Orphans’ Home now stands. On the evening of the Fourth they discovered and named Independence creek in honor of the day, and closed the day’s observances with “an evening gun and an additional gill of whiskey to the men.”

A detachment of Maj. Stephen H. Long’s Yellowstone exploring expedition, under command of Capt. Wyley Martin, spent the winter of 1818–19 on Cow Island, which now belongs to Atchison county, and established a post known as Cantonment Martin. This was the first United States military post established above Ft. Osage, and west of Missouri Territory. During that winter Captain Martin’s men killed between 2,000 and 3,000 deer, besides great numbers of bears, turkeys and other game. The troops that established this frontier post were a part of the First Rifle regiment, the “crack” organization of the United States army at that time. In July, 1819, Major Long arrived at Cow Island. His steamboats were the first to ascend the Missouri river above Ft. Osage. The next day Colonel Chambers and a detachment of infantry arrived. Thomas Say and his party of naturalists, under command of Major Biddle, at about the same time crossed Atchison county en route from the Kansa Indian village where Manhattan now stands, and joined Major Long’s party at Cow Island. Messrs. Say and Jessup, naturalists of the expedition, were taken very ill and had to remain at the island for some time. Col. Henry Atkinson, the founder of Ft. Atkinson, and commander of the western department for more than twenty years, arrived at Cow Island shortly after Major Long. Maj. John O’Fallon was sutler of the post and Indian agent for the upper Missouri. On July 4, 1819, the Nation’s birthday was celebrated on Cow Island. The flags were raised at full mast, guns were fired, and they had “pig with divers tarts to grace the table.” On August 24 an important council with the Kansa Indians was held on the island. An account of this council will be found in the chapter on Indian history in this volume.

One of the captains who was stationed on Cow Island—Bennett Riley—afterwards became a distinguished man in the history of this country. He was the man for whom Ft. Riley was named. He served with gallantry in the Indian country, the Northwest and Florida. In the Florida war he was promoted to colonel. In the war with Mexico he became a major-general, and was subsequently military governor of California. Col. John O’Fallon entered the army from Kentucky and fought in the Battle of Tippecanoe under Harrison, where he was severely wounded and carried the scar to his grave. He had a brilliant military record, and afterwards became one of the wealthiest and most public-spirited citizens of St. Louis.

Major Willoughby Morgan assumed command of the Cow Island post April 13, 1819. He was also a distinguished officer. When Cantonment Martin was abandoned in September, 1819, it required a month to transport the troops from there to Council Bluffs on the steamboats.

One of these boats, the “Western Engineer,” the first that ever touched the shore of Atchison county, was of unique construction, having been expressly built for the expedition and calculated to impress the Indians. On her bow was the exhaust pipe, made in the form of a huge serpent, with wide open mouth and tongue painted a fiery red. The steam, escaping through the mouth, made a loud, wheezing noise that could be heard for miles. The Indians recognized in it the power of the great Manitou and were overcome with fear.

Cow Island has been a prominent landmark in the West from a very early period. It was discovered by the early French explorers and called by them Isle au Vache, meaning Isle of Cow or Cow Island. It was so named because a stray cow was found wandering about on the island. It is supposed that this cow was stolen by the Indians from one of the early French settlements and placed on this island to prevent her escape. There is a coincidence in the fact that the first horse and the first cow in what is now Atchison county, of which we have any record, were found in the same locality. The stray horse picked up by Lewis and Clark, mention of which is made on a preceding page of this chapter, was found almost opposite the upper end of Cow Island, on the Kansas shore. There is a tradition that the French had a trading post on Cow Island at a very early day.

In 1810, John Bradbury, a renowned English botanist, made a trip up the Missouri river, and was the first scientist to make a systematic study of the plants and geological formations of this region. He touched the shore of what is now Atchison county, and in his book, “Travels in the Interior of America,” speaks about the great fertility of our soil. He shipped the specimens collected on this trip to the botanical gardens of Liverpool, and no doubt many Atchison county specimens were included in these shipments. The next year H. M. Brackenridge, another explorer, came up the Missouri and made some observations along our shore.

The first permanent white settler of what is now Atchison county was a Frenchman, Paschal Pensoneau, who, about 1839, married a Kickapoo Indian woman and about 1844 settled on the bank of Stranger creek, near the present site of Potter, where he established a trading-house and opened the first farm in Atchison county on land which had been allotted him by the Government for services in the Black Hawk and Mexican wars. Pensoneau had long lived among the Kickapoo Indians, following them in their migrations from Illinois to Missouri and Kansas, generally pursuing the vocation of trader and interpreter. As early as 1833 or 1834 he was established on the Missouri river at the old Kickapoo town, later removing to Stranger creek, as aforestated. He became a very prominent and influential man among the Kickapoos. He long held the position of Government interpreter that tribe. After the treaty of 1854, diminishing the Kickapoo reserve, Pensoneau moved to the new lands assigned the tribe along the Grasshopper river, where he lived for many years. About 1875 he settled among a band of Kickapoo Indians, near Shawnee, Indian Territory, where he died some years later. He was born at Cahokia, Ill., April 17, 1796, his parents having been among the emigrants from Canada to the early French settlements of Illinois.

In 1850 the military road from Ft. Leavenworth to Ft. Laramie was laid out by Colonel Ogden. It crossed Atchison county, and over it passed many important expeditions to the Western plains and mountains, and to Oregon and California. Before this road was laid out as a Government highway, the same route had long been traveled as a trail. It was a great natural highway, being on the “dividing ridge” between the Missouri and Kansas rivers. Charles Augustus Murray, Francis Parkman, Captain Stansbury and other noted travelers journeyed over this trail during the thirties and forties, and in the fascinating volumes they have left, we find much of interest pertaining to the region of which Atchison county is now a part. During the gold excitement in California this old trail swarmed with emigrants seeking a fortune in the West. The Mormons, the soldiers, the overland freighters, the stage drivers, the hundred and one other picturesque types of character in the early West have helped to make the history of this famous old branch of the “Oregon and California Trail” immortalized by Parkman.

During the days of Mormon emigration a Mormon settlement sprang up a few miles west of Atchison, and immediately east of the present site of Shannon, which became known as “Mormon Grove.” The settlement was enclosed by trenches, which served as fences to prevent the stock from going astray, and traces of these old ditches may be seen to this day. Many of the Mormons here died of cholera and were buried near the settlement, but all traces of the old burial ground have been obliterated by cultivation of the soil.