William L. Ilgen

141. Art Smithing.—This subject might appropriately be considered a separate branch, because many smiths, who really deserve the credit of being excellent mechanics, have never become proficient in this particular line of work.

Art smithing is the highest development of metal work. The best art smiths are foreigners, as European countries use much more of this kind of work for decoration than this country does. The greater part of this work is entirely too difficult for the average student unless it is attempted with the assistance of machinery.

It is possible, however, to do a certain amount of scroll work with accuracy and make simple decorative pieces. One should commence with the design of the article to be made. The harmonious combinations of straight and curved lines and their adaptation for different purposes should be studied. The study of design will not be taken up here, but several examples which will furnish a basis for further work along this line are given for consideration.

Designing may be done on any convenient material such as paper, wood, or blackboard. The last is preferable because confusing marks can easily be erased. A sketch thus made may be used as a working drawing. If the design is to be used many times, a very convenient and substantial method is to reproduce it on a piece of shellacked pine board, and then paint it on in solid form. When this is dry, a few more coats of shellac should be applied to preserve it. If desired, the length of each individual scroll may be indicated.

There are various methods of obtaining the different lengths: by placing a strong string over the scroll and then measuring the string; by using a piece of soft wire in the same manner, lead wire being preferred; or by the following method:—

Take a piece of ¹/₈-inch material 3 or 4 feet long, mark it lightly on both edges into equal spaces either 3 or 6 inches long, and stamp the feet or inches upon it with steel figures. After this is done, a small rolling curl, as shown in Fig. 129, should be formed, and the entire length bent on the scroll former while the material is cold. This is the manner, minus the markings mentioned, in which all scrolls are to be formed. This product with the markings upon it should be kept for ascertaining the number of inches required for either large or small scrolls. Always place the curled end of this measure in position on the working drawing and adjust it until it conforms to the outline of the design. Then place a crayon mark on both the drawing and the measure where they cease to correspond; the length of that portion which corresponds can be ascertained from the markings on the measure, and all remaining irregular curves can be measured by a string, wire, or rule. This measure will prove also to be quite a satisfactory and accurate means of arranging new designs.

142. Scroll Fastenings.—There are three different methods used for joining scrolls: welding, riveting, and banding with clips. The first is the most difficult and the most artistic, but unless one is quite expert at welding, especially in joining light material such as is generally used for scroll work, it would perhaps be better to disregard this method entirely.

Riveting presents a very neat appearance and makes the product quite strong and substantial, but unless the marking and drilling of holes is accurately done, the result presents a distorted and ill-shaped combination, which cannot be remedied without drilling new holes.

It would be advisable, then, to adopt the last method generally, resorting to riveting wherever it is impossible to use clips or bands, or where strength is an essential requirement. If a clip is misplaced, it can be replaced with a new one, or it may be moved into the proper position without showing that an error has been made.

Fig. 128.—The Scroll Former.

143. Scroll Former.—Fig. 128. This is a very handy tool for producing scrolls in a rapid and uniform manner. It should be a perfectly designed variable spiral. If several are provided, they should be exactly alike, otherwise the scrolls produced with them will be unequal and irregular and will present an inartistic appearance. The former illustrated is made of 1 × ¹/₂-inch soft steel. Draw the end and form the central portion, gradually tapering to about ³/₁₆ of an inch thick, but leave it of a uniform width. This end should be slightly beveled from one side to form a protruding edge, over which the small curled end of the material is securely held while the scroll is being bent. A view of the former as it is used to start a scroll is given in Fig. 129 showing the metal in proper position for forming. The end indicated at a, Fig. 128, may be bent downward and edgewise to a right angle, as shown, or, if desired, it may be forged square to fit the hardy hole of the anvil, but as this tool is most conveniently used when held in the vise, the method shown at a is better.

Fig. 129.—Starting a Scroll on the Former.

144. Bending or Twisting Fork.—Fig. 130. This fork is shown with dimensions suitable for bending material ¹/₈ or ³/₁₆ inch in thickness. For thicker material all dimensions should be proportionately increased.

Fig. 130.—Bending or Twisting Fork.

This tool is very serviceable and quite easily made of round tool steel; if such stock is not at hand, octagonal tool steel can be swaged to the desired dimension. If it is made of soft steel, it will meet requirements for a considerable length of time.

145. Bending or Twisting Wrench.—Fig. 131. This should be made from the same quality of steel of the same dimensions as the preceding tool.

Fig. 131.—Bending or Twisting Wrench.

Fig. 132.—Scroll Bending.

The bending wrench is used in connection with the bending fork for shaping a scroll, as shown in Fig. 132. When the wrench is placed over the material so that its jaws will grip the sides and the handle of the wrench is pulled in the direction indicated by the arrow, bending will take place at e. If the straight end of the scroll were pulled in the same direction, bending would occur at f. Sometimes when scrolls are being connected with the band, they are sprung out of place. By the use of this wrench they can be brought again into position by bending them close to where the band was put on.

These tools may be used together for twisting light material, when the vise and monkey wrench could not readily be utilized.

Fig. 133.—Clip Former.

146. Clip Former.—Fig. 133. This and the two following tools should be made of 0.80 to 0.90 per cent carbon tool steel. A convenient size of material for the one shown is 1 × ¹/₂ inch. The portion forming the connecting loop must be flattened and forged to about ¹/₄ inch thick to provide a spring for retaining its shape. The ends should be forged to two different thicknesses. The ¹/₄-inch side is used in bending clips for banding two pieces of ¹/₈-inch material, and the ³/₈-inch side for three pieces. When a different thickness of material is to be used, these ends should be made to correspond with it. The inner and outer edges of these ends should be made slightly rounding to prevent cutting the material from which the clips are made. Most of this light scroll work is made from stock with round edges, therefore it is not necessary to have the clips bent sharp and square.

Fig. 134.—Use of the Clip Former.

The former should be so proportioned that it can be placed between the jaws of the vise, as shown in Fig. 134. Here the loop is resting on the box of the vise, which supports it and prevents it from falling out of position when the pressure of the vise is released. The ends of the clip former should extend above the jaws of the vise about 2 inches, so that the clips can be bent without striking the vise with the hammer. A view of these ends, with a piece of half-oval iron in position for bending, is shown at A, Fig. 137. One end of the clip material should be placed between the ends of the former, one half the width of the scroll stock, ³/₁₆ of an inch if the stock is ³/₈ inch wide. By tightening the jaws of the vise upon the sides of the former, the half-oval iron will be securely held, while it is being bent over with the hand hammer to the form indicated by the broken lines. The clip will then be ready for fastening the scrolls together.

Fig. 135.—Clip Holder.

147. Clip Holder.—Fig. 135. Stock ³/₄ inch square is best suited for making this tool. The central portion forming the loop should be drawn and forged to about ¹/₄ inch thick, gradually increased to ¹/₂ inch where the shoulders are formed. The distance from these shoulders to the outside end of the loop should be less than the distance from the top of the vise jaws to the vise box. Then the tool will be supported entirely on these shoulders, as shown in Fig. 136, and the tool may be placed near the ends of the vise jaws, which sometimes will prove to be quite an advantage. The length from the shoulders to the ends may be about 2 inches. These ends should be drawn tapering from the outer sides to about ¹/₂ inch square. On the inside a depression ³/₁₆ inch deep should be formed so that the holder will fit over the bent end of a clip, as shown at B, Fig. 137.

The clip and a sectional view of the two pieces of material that are to be connected are shown at B as they are placed in this tool. By tightening the vise upon the holder, the lower portion of the clip will be clamped securely on the pieces and held while the upright end of the clip is bent over and around the upper half of the material with the hand hammer. Then the following tool will be brought into use.

148. Clip Tightener or Clincher.—Fig. 138. The most convenient stock from which to make this tool is ³/₄-inch octagon tool steel. It is made by upsetting and forging the end to about 1¹/₄ × ¹/₂ inches, then filing a depression not more than ³/₁₆ inch deep and wide enough to fit tightly over the outer portion of the bent end of a clip. The corners indicated at e should be made slightly round to prevent them from marring the outside of the clips. This tool should be about 6¹/₂ inches long, with the head end drawn as for a cold chisel.

By holding this tool on top of the bent-over clip, as shown at C, Fig. 137, and delivering a few heavy blows upon it, the clip will be tightened and clinched securely over and around the pieces.

149. JardiniÈre Stand or Taboret.—Fig. 139. The height from the floor line to the top of the circular board is 26 inches; the height from the floor line to the upper ring E is 19¹/₂ inches; the height from the floor line to the lower ring F is 7 inches; the extreme width is 18¹/₂ inches.

The process of making this stand will be given here. By following a similar course, any of the other designs given in this chapter may be made. The material usually employed for making this is ¹/₂ × ¹/₈-inch, and there should be four sections or legs, as shown at the left, also two bands or rings, like the one shown in the upper right, and one top board ⁷/₈ inch thick and 8 inches in diameter, which is shown under the ring. The following list gives the number and lengths of the various pieces required:—

4 pieces 45¹/₂ inches long.
4 pieces 22¹/₂ inches long.
4 pieces 15¹/₂ inches long.
4 pieces 15 inches long.
2 pieces 14¹/₂ inches long.
4 pieces 13 inches long.

All pieces should be straightened immediately after being cut to length. The main branch, 45¹/₂ inches long, should be marked with a center punch at all places where bending or twisting is to be done. From the end of the stock to A is 6 inches; from A to B, 9 inches; B to C, 4¹/₂ inches; the length of the twisted portion is 2¹/₂ inches.

All ends that are to be scrolled, should be drawn, curled, and fitted to the central portion of the former, as previously indicated. When both ends of the same piece are to be scrolled, observe carefully whether they revolve in the same or in opposite directions. These ends should not be cooled after drawing and fitting, because cooling will have a tendency to harden them slightly and prevent uniform bending. All ends that are to be connected to another piece by clips should now be drawn out to a thin edge, but of a uniform width.

Now proceed to form the main branch by making the twisted portion between B and C; straighten if necessary. Form the upper angular bend of 90 degrees at A while it is held in the vise; this can be done cold, by carefully avoiding breaking or cutting the material with the sharp edge of the vise. Now form a scroll at the top on the former. Next bend at B in the same manner and direction as before, and make the two quarter circles between A and B, with the bending fork alone or by combining the use of it with the bending wrench. Exercise care in doing this, in order to have the correct space for scroll 2 and ring E, which should be 5 inches outside diameter. The lower angular bend at C should now be made, followed by forming as much of the scroll D as possible on the former. Then bend the irregular curve between D and C.

The next member to be scrolled and fitted into position is the 15¹/₂-inch piece, 4. This must be carefully made in order to have the extreme height of the scroll at the proper distance from the bottom line, also at the proper distance from the center line, to provide an exact dimension where the lower ring F is to be connected. The outside diameter of ring F should be 5 inches. Then scroll and fit the 15-inch piece, 3, followed by the 13-inch piece, 5, and finish this leg by arranging the 22¹/₂-inch piece, 2, last, so that it will not extend above the bottom line of the circular board and will leave at least a ¹/₄-inch space between the center line and the sides of the curves.

All parts should be assembled on the drawing after they are fitted, and marked with crayon wherever the clips are to be placed to secure them. The material for the clips, which should be ³/₈-inch half-oval Norway iron, should be cut up in lengths equal to the four outside dimensions of the combined materials plus ¹/₈ of an inch for bending, or 1⁵/₈ inches in this case. After these pieces are bent on the clip former, fasten the scrolls together with the clip holder and the clincher.

After the four legs or parts have been assembled, lay each separately on the drawing, to make sure that the places, where they are to be connected with the rings and the circular board, are properly located. If they are correct, mark these places with a center punch, and drill ⁹/₆₄-inch holes where the rings are to be connected and ³/₁₆-inch holes where the top is to be secured.

The two 14¹/₂-inch pieces are for the rings. Drill a ⁹/₆₄-inch hole ³/₈ of an inch from each end in both pieces, countersink one side of one end of each piece, and grind a beveled edge on this end, but on the opposite side from the countersink. Form them into rings having the countersink inside. Connect the ends of each ring with a ¹/₈ × ³/₈-inch round-head rivet, inserting it from the outside of the ring and riveting the ends together, filling the countersink. Place the rings separately on the mandrel and make them perfectly round on the inside by forming a slight offset on the outside end where it begins to lap over the beveled inside end.

Draw a 5-inch circle on a piece of board and divide it into quarters. Place the rings on this outline with the outside end about ¹/₄ inch from one of the quarter lines. Mark where each quarter line crosses the ring, center-punch these places, drill ⁹/₆₄-inch holes, and countersink them on the inside. Then assemble the legs by riveting the upper ring to the standard with ¹/₈ × ¹/₂-inch rivets, the lower one with ¹/₈ × ³/₈-inch rivets, their heads toward the exterior so that riveting will be done on the inside of the rings filling the countersink. Place the circular top board in position and secure it with 1-inch #10 round-head wood screws. This will complete the construction, with the exception of a coat of black japanning, if a glossy finish is desired, or a coat of dead black lacquer if a rich dull black is desired.

150. Umbrella Stand.—Fig. 140. Extreme height, 27¹/₂ inches; extreme width, 18¹/₂ inches; upper rings, 9¹/₄ inches inside diameter; lower ring, 5¹/₄ inches inside diameter. Provide a small deep pan to rest on top of this ring.

151. Reading Lamp.—Fig. 141. Extreme height, 23 inches; height of the stand, 14 inches; base, 8¹/₄ inches wide; shade, 14 × 14 inches wide, 6¹/₄ inches high, top opening, 4 × 4 inches.

152. Andirons and Bar.—Fig. 142. Extreme height, 24 inches; extreme width of base, 18 inches; height from the floor line to the top of the upper scroll, 11¹/₂ inches; length of bar, 40 inches.

153. Fire Set.—Fig. 143. Extreme height, 30 inches; height to the holders, 24 inches; height to the top of the upper scroll, 11¹/₂ inches; extreme width of the base, 14 inches.

154. Fire Set Separated.—Fig. 144. Extreme length of implements, 22 inches.

Questions for Review