GENERAL DESCRIPTION
OF
ANCIENT ASSYRIAN COSTUME

CUTTING OUT

There are practically only two types of garment generally found in the representations of ancient Assyrian costume: (1) the shawl, and (2) the tunic. These vary in size and proportion, and are worn either alone, but more generally in combination.

DECORATION

Except in the earliest examples, decoration is lavish in Assyrian costume; in fact, the costume of a King when at its richest may be said to be absolutely covered with ornament. Jewellery, woven and embroidered patterns, and fringes are used in the utmost profusion. See the illustrations of the most characteristic ornamental details of this style.

MATERIAL

The materials used seem to have been of linen and wool. The skins and furs of animals and metal were also in use, but chiefly for military and hunting costume.

DATES

The earliest type of costume here shown is a rather elaborate shawl drapery worn without any tunic underneath. Later comes the tunic with various fringed shawl draperies worn in addition, and some of the latest types have the tunic worn alone without the shawl draperies. The dates given for the costumes illustrated in this style have been verified at the British Museum. It should be remembered, as in the case of ancient Egyptian costume, that the dresses changed very slowly indeed, and most styles of this era were worn literally for hundreds of years.

MEN AND WOMEN: THE DIFFERENCE IN THEIR DRESS

The representations of costume which Assyrian art has left us are almost entirely those of men’s dress. Two examples of women’s dresses are shown in this volume. The first wears a plain ungirded tunic and a simply draped shawl covering the figure partially. The second is the dress of a Queen, and has the tunic almost entirely covered with a voluminous shawl. The wide belt with narrow belt over it seems to be confined to the men’s costume, as also the tighter and scantier shawl draperies which exist in singular variety.

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Figs. 26, 27, and 28: This drapery is from the figure of the King Gudea, 2500 B.C. (see British Museum). To drape, place the corner b of Fig. 26A under left arm-pit, and draw the edge b-a round the back of shoulders under the right arm-pit, across the front of chest, and round the back again, and under the right arm-pit once more; then throw the edge b-a upwards across the chest and over the left shoulder; the corner a will then hang down the back. Take this corner a and tuck it in at the right side of breast, as shown in illustration (Fig. 26). It should be noted that, unless the left hand is raised, the left arm and hand are entirely covered by this drapery, the right arm only being left free for movement. This dignified drapery presents points of similarity to the Roman “toga” of a much later period.

Plate XI.—This type of dress, which in the British Museum is described as worn by “a Mythological Figure in attendance upon King Assur-nasir-pal”, ninth century B.C., might be dated about 1000 B.C., as following the usual custom of the ancients who dressed their sacred figures in the costume of some previous generation as a rule, consists of a simple tunic with short sleeves, and reaching to the knee, cut in similar fashion to the Egyptian; then a small shawl (Fig. 29B) is wrapped round the hips, beginning with the corner a on right hip, and passing the edge a-b across the front towards the left and round the waist. The triangle b-e-f can be tucked in at waist-line; then the wide belt, probably leather, which is coloured buff in the illustration, is put on and kept in position by the narrow belt, which is coloured red; this belt is much better seen in Fig. 30. Lastly, the large shawl (Fig. 29A) has the corner b tucked in to narrow belt at left side of waist, and the edge a-b passed round the back towards the right side of waist upwards across the chest, and hangs down the back over the left shoulder. The original of this figure is winged, the wings being omitted here.

Fig. 30 represents King Assur-nasir-pal (ninth century B.C.) wearing a tunic of similar type to Plate XI., but long. Tied at his waist and covering the back half of his figure is a small richly decorated shawl about 20 inches square. Note the tassels hanging from right-hand bottom corner; these would be the same on the left-hand bottom corner. He also wears the belt mentioned in connection with Plate XI. The wavy tassels which look like horsehair hang from his sword belt; a tassel also hangs from the back of his necklace, and two ribbons from his cap-band. Note the similarity of this cap to the so-called fez or tarbush worn in Assyria at the present day.

Fig. 31: The point to be noted in this figure is the arrangement of a fringe drapery which goes once round the waist, is thrown over one shoulder, and hangs down the back.

Fig. 32: This man, in hunting dress, ninth century B.C., has a small scarf, fringed only at the ends, wrapped tightly round the limbs, reaching to the knee.

Fig. 33: This woman, a captive of Sennacherib who reigned in eighth and seventh centuries B.C., wears a long tunic, and over it a long shawl fringed at the two ends and measuring 50” × 80”. To drape this shawl, place one corner under the left arm-pit and draw it across the back under the right arm-pit, wrapping it once round the body; draw it across the back and up over right shoulder. A corner of the fringed end will hang down in front of the right shoulder.

Plate XII.

Plate XII. shows a number of characteristic Assyrian ornaments.

a, The sacred tree.

b, c, d, e, f, Repeating patterns on costumes.

g, h, i, j, k, l, Borders on costumes.

m, One of the many rosettes much used in Assyrian decorations.

These should be compared with the decorated costumes shown in the plates; they would be either woven or embroidered.

Plate XIII.—A facsimile drawing, from an enamel tile, is one of the many representations of the King Assur-nasir-pal, ninth century B.C. The description of his dress will be better understood by referring to Figs. 34, 35, and 36. The King wears over his long tunic a very beautiful and dignified shawl drapery, which is fringed, recalling certain Egyptian types already illustrated, and, indeed, has points of similarity with certain Greek and Roman draperies. To drape this shawl (see Fig. 34A) fold over on the line e-f so that e-f, a-b, hangs down outside; then attach the cord e-g as illustrated, and hold g at right side of waist in front, throwing the rest of the shawl backwards over the right shoulder. Draw the edge e-f round the back of neck, and form a

sling over the left arm, as shown. To complete the draping, continue to pass the edge e-f round the waist towards the right, passing under the right elbow, then on round the back and left side until it reaches about 6 inches in front of left side of waist; now fold the remainder of drapery underneath, as shown in the drawings, and tie a cord round waist to keep all firmly in position; knot the end of the cord e-g to this waist cord. Fig. 35 shows the back view, and Fig. 36 shows the drapery thrown off the left shoulder to give freedom to both arms, Figs. 34 and 35 only giving freedom to the right arm. If the cord e-g is pulled down so that e touches the waist, then both shoulders will be covered by the drapery. Fig. 34 is the most usual arrangement of this type of drapery, but in looking at Plate XIII. closely it will be seen that the modern drawing (Fig. 37) is a more exact rendering. This drawing is from a draping of the same shawl as Fig. 34 is wearing, but the fold-over is somewhat deeper, the point e is tied closely to waist belt, and the drapery is rolled at waist while it is being adjusted. When worn thus, with a roll, the drapery will remain in position without the waist cord being tied over it, but it is more secure when it has been thus confined. Fig. 38 is still another variety of this type of draping, and is taken from a small statue of Assur-nasir-pal in the British Museum; there we have two shawls, one square and one semicircular (see Figs. 38A and 38B). To arrange this drapery, take the square shawl and fold outwards about 20 inches, as at e-f. Tie a waist cord on the tunic, and tuck the corner

f deeply into it at left side of waist cord; then draw tightly round the figure in front and round again across the back of waist till the left side is reached again. Now double about 6 inches of the shawl inwards, and tuck again into waist cord. Take the semicircular shawl g-h, and attach the cord to another waist cord, throw backwards over the right shoulder, and arrange a sling over the left arm as before in Figs. 34 and 37. The corner h of the shawl shows in front about 8 inches below the waist towards the left. Tie the second waist cord tightly over this shawl to keep in position.

NOTE ON THE COLOURING OF ANCIENT ASSYRIAN
AND PERSIAN COSTUMES

Though we do not possess the actual specimens of these costumes, still we can infer from the lavish ornament, and, from references in the Hebrew Old Testament writings, that rich colouring prevailed. The dyes were probably similar to those of ancient Egypt, and this table will suggest the particular hue of each colour:

Ancient Egyptian and Assyrian Dye Colours
Blue:	Usually rather a dark indigo, sometimes paler.
Red:	Much like the colour known as Indian red.
Yellow:	Similar to yellow ochre.
Green:	Much like the paint known as green bice, but rather more dull.
Purple:	Dark, and quite a brownish hue of purple.

All these colours could be used as embroideries on a white or natural coloured ground of linen, the embroideries being of wool. In other cases the whole garment might be coloured throughout.

Fig. 39 is the tunic of King Assur-bani-pal, seventh century B.C. It will be noticed that it is cut very much in the same manner as the Egyptian tunic; the neck opening, which is a slit large enough to admit the head, does not show in the drawing, but three buttons on either side of neck will be seen. A row of fringe decorates the bottom, and the whole is richly embroidered; over this tunic were worn the wide and narrow belts.

Plate XIV.

Plate XIV. is the Queen of Assur-bani-pal, seventh century B.C. She wears a similar tunic to the King, but the sleeves reach half-way down the lower arm; her shawl, which is fringed all round, would measure 50” × 130”. It is wrapped once round the lower limbs, and so covers the bottom of her tunic; it is then wound round the upper part of her body in similar fashion to that of the woman on p. 59, save that it goes in the opposite direction.

Plate XV.

Plate XV. shows further details of Assyrian decoration; attention may be particularly drawn to the varied forms of the tassels.

a, b, c, Bracelets.

d, e, f, Ear-rings.

g, h, i, j, Tassels from costumes and harness on horses.

k, Winged globe.

l, Palm tree.

m, Lappet of a King’s tiara.

n, Bronze vessel.

o, Sword handle.