The road from Talgarth to Brecon presents no special features except those of picturesque hill and dale, with various streams crossing the road at intervals.

BRECON

Brecon, the county town of Brecknockshire, lies upon the River Usk, and was formerly defended by walls and gates. Of the castle, destroyed as usual during the Civil War, only a few fragments near the Castle Hotel have survived, and one restored section facing the river.

St. Mary's Church has suffered so much from bad restoration that practically nothing of archÆological interest remains in it.

The Priory Church.—This building is only excelled in Wales by the Cathedrals of St. David's and Llandaff. It is a massive cruciform structure, with a central tower, high roof and gables, and an external aspect almost devoid of ornamentation. The eastern portions are of Early English work, and the nave was gradually transformed during the fourteenth century into a Decorated building, with great octagonal piers, broad arches, and a lofty clerestory. The carved Norman font should be noticed, and also a number of effigies, one dating from 1359. An interesting feature are the chapels on either side of the presbytery, called respectively the Chapel of the Normans and the Chapel of the Men of Battle, the priory being a cell of Battle Abbey. The guilds of the town had chapels in the nave, those of the tailors, weavers, tuckers, and courvisors, or shoemakers, being at the west end. The domestic buildings still remain, and are attached to the southern side of the west end of the nave; the building has been restored by Sir Gilbert Scott. The town is a pleasant one by reason of the many public walks in and about it, and fine views may be obtained of the well-known Beacons, some of them approaching 3,000 feet in height.

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The district round Brecon abounds in prehistoric camps and various remains of the British, Roman, and Saxon occupations. On the road to Llandovery, for instance, near Llanspyddyd, there is a Roman fort, and another of unknown origin adjoining, with a Roman road passing round them. Senny Bridge merely consists of a long street of uninteresting houses. At Trecastle there is an important mound, at one time crowned with a fortalice. From the centre of this village there is a steep ascent. The River Usk accompanies the road, and appears under various surroundings—now as a placid stream winding through meadowlands, and again as a foaming torrent in a deep, tree-shaded glen. This road through the outliers of the Beacons abounds in picturesque views of a well-wooded country, backed by the great swarthy slopes of the hills, called the Black Mountains, although the dark brown sandstone of which they are composed is the same colour as the brown heath upon them.

LLANDOVERY

Llandovery consists chiefly of two streets, which converge at the market-place, and a welcome change is the red wash with which many of the houses are covered, as a relief from the ubiquitous whitewash of the rest of Wales.

The Castle.—This has nearly disappeared, and only two dismantled circular towers, with a curtain wall between, remain. They may be found standing on a grassy knoll near the Castle Hotel. The River Bran is fairly wide at this point, and passes under a fine bridge.

Upon leaving Llandovery a level crossing has to be negotiated; the road crosses the River Towy, and then turns sharply to the left.

Llanwrda is a pretty village situated amid lovely pastoral scenery, and with a fine prospect over the valley. The road here turns at right angles towards the north, and between this point and the Hafod Bridge Inn, nearly four miles, the scenery is distinctly and strikingly beautiful. The small stream, the Dulais, accompanies the route, passing and repassing under the road. Near Pumpsaint lies a gold-mine, the Ogofan, and here the River Cothi, beloved of piscators, comes down from the mountains on its way to the Towy. Between Pumpsaint and Lampeter high ground is crossed, and a portion of the Sarn Helen Roman road appears near an inn beyond Pont-ar-Twch. Near Lampeter a village occurs bearing the ominous name of Rain.

LAMPETER

is one of the best-known fishing centres in Wales, the River Teifi affording exceedingly good sport. It is a well-built town, situated in a fertile valley. The bridge over the stream is said to have been erected in the time of King Stephen, from which the town claims the name of Lampeter Pont Stephen. The chief building is St. David's College, theological, designed for those who cannot afford Oxford or Cambridge. To gain the road for Newcastle Emlyn and Cardigan the river at Lampeter must be recrossed, and the turning taken to the right at 'Gwar Gate' Inn. The route gives a striking view over the valley of the Teifi, whose extraordinary meanderings and loopings appear as a huge serpent of silver lying in the broad landscape. The road for a considerable distance is of Roman construction—the Sarn Helen, but even those conquerors of the world could not conquer Nature in Wales and make their roads straight.

Llanbyther is a small and prettily-situated village, with one of the numerous 'Pen-y-Gaer' camps lying close to the road. The New Quay Road Station of Llanfihangel-ar-Arth turns off to the right soon after the Aber-Iar Inn; it is of a second-class character, but saves a considerable distance and some hills on the way to Llandyssil.

Llandyssil is a romantically-situated village upon the banks of the Teifi, which here assume a rocky character. Its church is dedicated to St. Tyssul, who lived in the early part of the sixth century. From Llandyssil the road south of the river should be taken to Newcastle Emlyn; it has many awkward turns.

NEWCASTLE EMLYN

is a well-situated town with a long street running at right angles to the coach-road.

The Castle is a beautifully-placed ruin, with grand views over the surrounding country. The position of the fortress for natural defence is most remarkable, for the Teifi here forms a reversed S, and in one of the loops so made the ruins are situated, the moat thus naturally formed being one of the most remarkable in existence. The most ancient building upon the site is reputed to have had a Roman origin; the second was erected by Sir Rhys ap Thomas (who built Dynevor Castle) in the time of Henry VII., who frequently resided here, and from it the town was termed 'New-castle.' The Royalists held it throughout the Civil War, but after that period it appears to have lapsed into ruin. Two octagonal towers supporting an arch give entrance to the ruins.

Three miles out from Newcastle Emlyn is Cenarth, a most picturesque and pleasantly-situated little village upon the border between Carmarthenshire and Pembrokeshire. There is a fine salmon-leap close to the hamlet which is worth seeing. The road thence to Cardigan traverses a plain, becoming more and more open as the town is approached, presenting a broad sweep of smiling woods and pasture.

CARDIGAN

The chief centre of interest in Cardigan is undoubtedly the bridge over the Teifi. It probably dates from the Early English Period, and has been widened. From this point there is a good view up and down the river, with the castle and church as prominent features.

The Castle.—The small portion hidden away in the ivy at the present time affords no clue to the former size and importance of this stronghold. It was founded in the time of Henry II. by the Prince of South Wales, and after a chequered career was dismantled at the Commonwealth. The keep is now occupied by private houses.

The Church (key obtained at one of the cottages in the road).—The tower is a fine one, but so far as the whole interior is concerned it must be confessed that all ecclesiological features of interest have been obliterated by paint, plaster, and incongruous additions. The chancel arch, of the Perpendicular period, has a fearful and wonderful 'skew,' which may or may not have been acquired by age.

The town contains a number of old houses, nooks, and byways, but they are only moderately interesting to the artist, who finds his best subjects by the bridge and along the river, where sailing-boats and small steamers reveal the picturesque qualities generally to be found in small ports. One feature of the town soon attracts attention—namely, the strong reluctance of the majority of chimneys in Cardigan to keep to the perpendicular.

St. Dogmael's Priory, less than two miles from Cardigan, lies upon the left of the estuary. The remains are of the Early English period, and are still considerable. Martin de Tours, who came over with the Conqueror (not St. Martin), was the founder.

Kilgerran Castle, three miles south of the town, and easily reached by road, stands upon a vast bare rock uplifted above the foaming, eddying stream rushing round its base, through a narrow channel in the rocks. Many eulogistic statements have been made concerning this beauty-spot, but none have overpraised it. The ruins consist of two towers, with part of a gateway and curtain wall, together with fragments of massive bastions. It was erected about 1223, when Marshall, Earl of Chepstow, subdued the Welsh in these districts.

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On leaving for Newport, the long rise of the road affords, in about two miles, a remarkably fine view towards the left. With Mynydd Prescelly for a background, the composition of the foreground and middle distance by a beautiful vale is singularly impressive, and this view, with panoramic changes, accompanies the road to Nevern.

The hills seen in the front have massive rocky crags penetrating their otherwise smooth outline.

Nevern.—A very dangerous turn in the road ushers the traveller into this beautiful little village, embowered in the midst of rich meadows, orchards, and gardens in a situation which is eminently picturesque and pleasing. The River Nevern flows through the village, and an amphitheatre of well-wooded hills encloses it.

The Castle consists of some slight remains of a Norman building, apparently of a square plan, with bastions at the angles.

The Church is one of the largest in the county, and of very great interest. It is of Early English architecture, with a Perpendicular recess forming a chapel upon the south side. In the window-sill of the south window of this chapel is inserted a long granite stone, with an Ogham inscription upon it, together with a slab bearing an excellent example of an early interlaced cross. The church stands in a quite ideal sloping churchyard, containing a stone cross about 13 feet in height, with Celtic ornamentation and two inscriptions, not yet satisfactorily deciphered, as far as the writer is aware. Near the south porch is a menhir with an inscription.

The Pentre Evan cromlech, one of the finest known, lies about three miles from Nevern by road, but less than two as the crow flies. A car may be taken by a third-class road for the greater part of the distance, but a local guide is necessary.

NEWPORT

Newport is a small fishing town, and also a seaport, upon the estuary of the Nevern. It is a quiet watering-place, the sea-bathing being very good, while the surrounding country is of enticing interest.

The Castle was built in 1215, and used by the lords of Cemmaes for their courts. It was destroyed by Llewelyn, but restored recently by a descendant of the first baron, but in such strong contrast to the original Norman architecture that it is very disappointing externally.

The Church has been built near the castle, and partakes somewhat of its character, being stern and massive in its proportions. The interior contains nothing of particular interest.

A small cromlech lies within a few hundred yards of the centre of the town, to which any inhabitant will direct one. Occasional glimpses of the estuary, with its sands gleaming in the sun, are obtained from the main streets of the town.

The road between Newport and Fishguard reveals a wide view of the Prescelly Mountains, the highest in Pembrokeshire, and a favourite climb for visitors. A most attractive view of Goodwick Harbour, now generally known as Fishguard, is obtained from the road, or, better still, from one of the steep meadows on either hand. The great importance of this harbour in connection with the Atlantic mail and passenger service has suddenly brought a remote district into prominence. It is now a familiar sight for the natives to see a huge liner in this natural harbour take on passengers and cargo, while a few years ago the waters of the deep inlet had never been churned by propellers.

The descent into Fishguard of 1 in 7 must be taken with extreme caution; at the foot of the curving descent a bridge crosses the Afon Gwaen, and from this the road climbs with equal suddenness and at an equally trying angle. It is a hill calculated to test to the last fraction of its horsepower the capacity a car possesses in hill-climbing. At the top of the ascent the whole bay is spread out in panoramic fashion, and one can see the new breakwater, still incomplete, protecting the anchorage.

The road from Fishguard to St. David's passes first across the isthmus of the Pen Caer Peninsula, whose northern part terminates in Strumble Head. This district is the happy hunting-ground for the archÆologist, as it literally teems with prehistoric remains—castles, camps, stone circles, cromlechs, and menhirs, are encountered almost at every step. Two miles out of Fishguard the turning to the right should be taken at a puzzling junction of roads. At Mathry some cromlechs occur near the road, and two miles farther on a wayside cross may be seen. The hills in this neighbourhood generally have the formation noticed previously at Cardigan—namely the projection of high tors from their summits, breaking through otherwise smooth elevations. Nearing St. David's Head it is obvious that the face of the landscape is gradually changing: the hedgerows become less in height, and are often mere mounds of turf or stone; the few trees met with are dwarfed and attenuated, and invariably lean away from the south-west. As St. David's comes nearer these characteristics become accentuated, and a barren, wind-swept moorland appears, almost unrelieved by a single tree.

ST. DAVID'S

The modern town of St. David's has a sad and desolate air, arising from the number of abandoned houses to be seen on every hand.

The Cathedral (nave open free on weekdays, 9 to 1 and 2 to 6; a charge of 6d. is made for admission to the eastern chapels) is in a remarkable situation at the farther end of the town, and practically bursts upon the view when the edge of the deep hollow it occupies is reached. In such an exposed corner of Britain it is not surprising that everything should take what shelter it can find, but to walk through a rather dreary and wind-swept Welsh village, and to discover a magnificent cathedral cowering almost out of sight at one's very feet, is not an everyday occurrence even with the touring motorist. A score of abbeys planted in sequestered valleys will come to the mind of anyone who has explored this island, but a well-preserved cathedral built in a deep and narrow hollow in a rocky promontory almost takes away what little breath the blustering wind has left to the exploring stranger. To the left is the old tower gateway, a weather-worn remnant of the embattled fortifications which once encircled the monastery. Down below, and approached by a long and steep flight of stone steps, stands the church, with the square tower of rather unsatisfactory outline dominating the nave, transept, and eastern portions of the buildings. Beyond appears one of the most beautiful ruins that ever gladdened the eye—the remains of one of the finest episcopal palaces to be seen in the British Isles. Near the church are also grouped ruins of the conventual buildings, and the whole forms a scene that indelibly impresses itself upon the memory. Descending the thirty-nine steps, one reaches the south porch of the nave. Whatever preconceived ideas one may hold of the beauty of this part of the church, the sight of the original far surpasses them. The beautiful Norman pillars and graceful arches, ornamented with the most elaborate chevron and zigzag mouldings of the Transitional period; the clerestory springing directly from the dwarfed triforium with which it is incorporated; and the whole surmounted by a finely-wrought timber roof, make a picture of the rarest perfection. The colouring is full of subtle richness, the stonework being of a soft dove-grey combined with a bluish tinge. The building dates from 1180, the previous church having been burnt down by pirates. The tower fell in 1220, and was rebuilt at different periods. The choir and transepts are Early English, but were added to in the Decorated period. The eastern chapels are Decorated, as is also the beautiful rood-screen. The ceiling in the nave dates from c. 1500. Many objects of interest are contained in the building; the shrines of St. David and St. Caradoc, the tomb of Edmund Tudor, father of Henry VII., the monument of Bishop Gower, the chapel of St. Thomas À Becket, and the fan tracery of the roof in Bishop Vaughan's Chapel, are all worthy of careful inspection. Outside the north wall of the nave gigantic and ill-proportioned buttresses are seen, built in 1248 to strengthen the nave, which had suffered from an earthquake; on the opposite side are the remains of the cloisters of St. Mary's College, begun in 1362.

The exploration of the ruins of the Bishop's Palace should on no account be omitted, as the lower chambers, the row of clerestory arches, the beautiful doorways, and the general composition of the whole ruin, are worthy of the closest attention.

Upon the return to the main street the ancient cross is seen, no less than 28 feet in height; the steps were restored by Bishop Thirlwall in 1873.

The coast scenery at St. David's is remarkably wild, and the subjects for the painter in oils or water-colours, or for the less ambitious who carry a sketch-book and a good soft pencil, are full of particular attractiveness. To those who are without the desire or capacity to carry away any permanent impressions of the scenery it will be enough to lie in a sheltered spot and watch the white waves burst into columns of spray on the northern end of Ramsey Island.

LOOP No. 5—SECOND PORTION
ST. DAVIDS TO HEREFORD, 132¼ MILES

DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE

Miles.
St. David's to Haverfordwest	15	¾
Haverfordwest to Narberth	10	¼
Narberth to Red Roses	7
Red Roses to Carmarthen	14	¾
Carmarthen to Pontacothi	6	¼
Pontacothi to Llandilo	8	¾
Llandilo to Llangadock	6	¾
Llangadock to Llandovery	5	½
Llandovery to Trecastle	9
Trecastle to Devynock	3	¼
Devynock to Brecon	8	¾
Brecon to Talgarth (Bronllys)	8	¼
Bronllys to Three Cocks Inn	2	½
Three Cocks Inn to Hay	4	¾
Hay to Clifford	2	½
Clifford to Hereford	18	¼

NOTES FOR DRIVERS

St. David's to Haverfordwest.—This road has a fine surface, but hills are frequent and all dangerous. They range from 1 in 8 to 1 in 12.

Haverfordwest to Carmarthen.—This also has a good surface, but the hills are numerous. Near Narberth is a hill 1 in 9.

Carmarthen to Brecon.—Splendid surface and easy gradients.

Brecon to Hereford.—An excellent road without dangerous hills.

Hay.—A toll of 9d. must be paid for crossing the river.

PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE

Solva.—A village in pretty scenery.

Pointz Castle.—An earthwork.

Roche Castle.—Very conspicuous.

Haverfordwest.—A pleasant town; the castle, now a gaol; St. Mary's Church, with ancient wooden carving; the Priory Ruins.

Narberth.—A little town with ruins of its castle.

St. Clears.—A small port.

Carmarthen.—A busy county town; the castle, now the gaol; the Guildhall; the church; Picton Monument; interesting market.

Llandilo.—Small town on high ground; Dynevor Castle; Careg Cennen Castle.

Llandilo to Talgarth.—See Loop 6, Part I.

Hay.—A little town on English border; the castle, an interesting structure (not open).

Clifford Castle, birthplace of Fair Rosamond.

Whitney.—Beautiful scenery on the Wye; old timbered houses.

Hereford.—The cathedral, Norman to Perpendicular; the Shire Hall; the castle green; interesting old houses.

The distance from St. David's to Haverfordwest is sixteen miles, or, as the natives naÏvely express it, 'sixteen miles and seventeen hills.' For the switchback contour, however, one is compensated by the wide views generally obtained when the tops of the hills are reached, before plunging downwards into the next sudden hollow. The same characteristics of wild moorland and storm-swept down prevail as noticed upon the road to St. David's, and it is very interesting to note how gradually the vegetation develops as the route progresses. About two miles out the little village of Solva is passed, lying upon a romantic inlet in this iron-bound coast, and recalling, to some extent, the fishing village of Staithes, in Yorkshire. The view over St. Bride's Bay, with Skomer Island as the farthest point, is exceedingly fine on a crisp, sunny morning, and shortly after leaving Solva, Pointz Castle, an earthwork, appears upon the right hand, at a short distance from the road. The sharp descent to Newgate brings one almost within reach of the salt spray at high tide, and the road runs for a few hundred yards by the sands of that name, giving a glimpse of some fine coast scenery. There is an example here of a 'rolling beach,' an accumulation of pebbles being washed over and over upon the flat land beyond. The road now climbs to the uplands, upon which stands Roche Castle, a conspicuous landmark for many miles. It was built in the reign of Henry III., but has later windows inserted. Garrisoned for the King during the time of the Civil War, it was captured by the Parliamentarians, but subsequently retaken. Lord St. Davids, the present owner, has adapted it for modern habitation. Its position upon a rocky scar, in the midst of a treeless plain, is peculiarly imposing.

As the road approaches Haverfordwest trees of respectable proportions begin to appear, no longer leaning towards the north-east.

HAVERFORDWEST

The town of Haverfordwest occupies an important position among those of South Wales, and is the centre of commerce for a large district. The streets are narrow and steep, with sharp turnings, probably caused by the confinement of the ancient fortifications which once protected the town. Of these practically nothing remains but the shell of a strong castle, now converted into the county gaol, standing upon a rocky eminence overlooking the town. Although very impressive when viewed from a distance or from the River Cleddau in the town, it hardly repays minute inspection. Gilbert de Clare, Earl of Pembroke, is said to have built it about 1120, and it became, with that of Pembroke, one of the most important fortresses in 'Little England,' as the southern part of Pembroke was termed. It was demolished by order of Oliver Cromwell.

St. Mary's Church is of great interest, the exterior showing some fantastic gargoyles, and the nave some fine clustered columns of Early English work, with a Perpendicular clerestory above. The ceilings should be noticed, and also the early lancets at the west end. It is a beautiful church, full of light, with no gloomy corners. There is an ancient wooden carving of St. Michael the Archangel and the Dragon, dating from the fifteenth century.

The Priory Ruins are situated a short distance from the southern part of the town, and are quite picturesque. They are the remains of a priory of Austin Canons erected in the twelfth century. The very liberal grants of Robert de Hwlffordd, lord of this town, were confirmed by Edward III. The remains of the minster are of Early English work.

The road from Haverfordwest takes a sharp turn to the right upon leaving the town, and passes over the railway-lines. An isolated church stands upon a hill to the right, and soon afterwards the woods surrounding Picton Castle, two miles away, come into view. It is one of the most ancient residences in the kingdom, having been built by a De Picton in the reign of Rufus. From that time it has been inhabited by an unbroken line of proprietors, never deserted, never vacant. The alterations have not very much affected the baronial style of the building, and until quite recently it presented the appearance of a medieval fortress.

At Canaston Bridge the road crosses the eastern Cleddau, which discharges into Milford Haven, and here, upon the left, at about a mile, lies the picturesque ruin of Llawhaden Castle, once a residence of the Bishops of St. David's. The gateway, flanked by two demi-bastions, forms a very effective picture.

Approaching Narberth, the right-hand road should be taken at Robeston Wathen. Fir-trees near this point begin to make their appearance, having been conspicuously absent from St. David's to this point.

NARBERTH

There is a very steep hill in this town, leading to the ruins of a Norman castle crowning the summit. They are picturesquely covered with ivy, but the remains now apparent are small when compared with those visible in the eighteenth century. The roads in the neighbourhood of Narberth are rather misleading, as so many by-roads enter. Care should be taken to decipher the sign-boards in many cases before proceeding. Between Narberth and St. Clears, for instance, there are three roads at Tavernspite near an inn, and the centre one should be taken.

St. Clears is a long and straggling village at the head of an estuary of the Taff, and vessels of small tonnage can reach it at high tide. It formerly possessed a castle and a priory, but both have disappeared. The town itself is uninteresting. Between St. Clears and Carmarthen the small hamlet of Banc-y-Felin is particularly pleasing, with a tributary of the Taff flowing through it.

CARMARTHEN

Carmarthen, the capital of the shire, stands upon the site of the Roman Maridunum, and is the point of convergence of two roads, Via Maritima and Via Montana. Some parts of the town stand at a considerable elevation, and present an imposing picture from a distance. It is an excellent example of an old Welsh town, retaining a great deal of its primeval quaintness. Upon market-days, when it swarms with people from the surrounding districts, one seldom hears a word of English spoken, and the busy scenes witnessed in the bustling market are mainly transacted in the mother-tongue. Upon entering the town the Picton Monument is seen, raised in honour of the Peninsula hero, who fell at Waterloo.

The Church of St. Peter is a large building chiefly in the Perpendicular style, with a lofty square tower. The interior has been very carefully plastered so as to hide everything of interest. A Roman altar, however, may be seen below the tower.

Sir Richard Steele, who died in 1729, the friend of Addison, and the well-known man of letters, lies buried in this church. In his old age he came to reside at Llangunnor, near Carmarthen.

The Castle, which at one time made Carmarthen a place of strength, was demolished by the Parliamentarians, and the small portion remaining has been converted into the county gaol. On leaving Carmarthen the route towards Llandilo lies upon the Roman road, the Via Montana. It includes some of the finest scenery in South Wales. There are two roads running in the valley, with the railway separating them; the north one is the more picturesque.

At a loop in the road about ten miles out, Middleton Hall, lying due south, and erected by Sir William Paxton, may be recognized by the tall tower which forms such a conspicuous landmark. It is known as Paxton's Tower, but was raised by him in memory of Nelson. Almost directly afterwards, Dryslwyn Castle comes in sight, a most picturesque ruin, consisting of one tower and many fragments of walls. It was besieged in the time of Edward I., when Lord Stafford and other leaders lost their lives, in undermining the fortress, by the sudden collapse of the walls beneath which they were operating.

On Grongar Hill, a few hundred yards away to the right, the poet Dyer composed his poem 'Grongar Hill.' The view from the summit is charming. On the farther side of the valley can be seen Golden Grove, the residence of Viscount Emlyn. Dynevor Park and Castle come into view upon the right front on reaching the neighbourhood of Llandilo. The ruins stand upon a lofty mound a short distance from the road, in the most attractive portion of the park. The first castle was built in 877, and almost rebuilt in the time of William the Conqueror. For some centuries it was the residence of the Princes of South Wales. Henry VII. granted it to Sir Rhys ap Thomas, a descendant of the Princes, and ancestor of the present owner, Lord Dynevor. It was occupied until 1760. The remains consist of a round keep and a square tower, commanding a magnificent prospect. (The ruins are open for inspection to the bona-fide visitor upon application.)

LLANDILO

Llandilo is a small town perched upon two or three steep hills to the north of the River Towy, crossed here by a stone bridge of one span. The streets are narrow, with the public buildings grouped together in the centre of the town. The church was thoroughly rebuilt in 1848, and everything of interest then disappeared. If a stay can be arranged at Llandilo, one of the most remarkable edifices in the kingdom, Careg Cennen, should be seen. It is a castle almost without a history, standing upon a rocky height with inaccessible precipices on three sides, the foremost one over 300 feet in height. Two square towers guard the sloping ground upon the fourth side, and the main portion of the castle occupies the summits of the precipices. The situation is superb and the scenery delightful. The spirit of romance is free from any of the handicaps usually suffered by the historian, for in this castle among the clouds, in connection with which history is silent (except a reputed origin in the thirteenth century at the hands of Rhys of Wales), the wings of imagination may soar to any height. This is a site awaiting the novelist in search of a romantic setting for a story of the Middle Ages. It stands about five miles to the south-east of Llandilo, overlooking the Vale of the Towy.

Between Llandilo and Llanwrda a large Roman camp can be seen lying upon Carn Goch, and at the inn where the road turns to Llangadock a large tributary joins the Towy. In a few miles Llanwrda is reached, and the loop for St. David's is thus completed. For the road between Llanwrda and Talgarth, see pp. 143-148.

The route from Talgarth to Hay is winding, and care should be taken to avoid the numerous roads leading away from the main road, which lies on the south side of the River Wye, and for a considerable distance is parallel to the railway.

Glasbury, beyond the Three Cocks, is a small village much frequented by the fishing fraternity; a fine prospect of the Black Mountains is obtained, and the views generally are among the best to be found in the district.

The entry into Hay is very pretty, with shady hedgerows and many of the attributes of English scenery.

HAY

This little town lies upon the borders of England and Wales, at the junction of the shires of Radnor, Hereford, and Brecon. The word 'Hay' is allied to 'hedge,' meaning a boundary. It was at one time the main entry into Wales from England, and naturally, from its position, it has seen stirring times in the past.

The Castle dominates the town, and is easily reached from the main street; the entrance is at the back. The architecture now appears to be a mixture of all kinds, including Tudor, for numerous additions have been made. A residence constructed out of the old materials occupies part of the site. Sir Philip Walwyn is supposed to have built the first castle in 1090, and at the end of the twelfth century extensive additions were made. Henry III. almost rebuilt it, and in 1233 Llewelyn ap Jorweth stormed it. Thirty years later it was taken twice, and in the time of Glendower it was burnt. Many other minor happenings have occurred to lend variety to its existence. James I. made large additions to the building. The fortifying walls once enclosing the town have nearly disappeared. The road upon the town side traverses the former moat. A view across the river gives a glimpse of a Roman camp near the stream, while to the north-west stands Clyro, reached by a main road, and enclosed by beautiful woods. A mound of earth and a moat are now the sole remains of the proud and lordly Clyro Castle mentioned by Leland.

The ruins of Cusop Castle and Mouse Castle lie at a short distance from the town, and a favourite excursion is that to the far-famed Llanthony Abbey, lying amid romantic wilds some ten miles to the south.

The route to Whitney crosses the river at Hay, passes through Clyro, and in two miles affords a view of Clifford Castle, standing upon a bold eminence by the side of the river; it was the birthplace of Jane de Clifford, the Fair Rosamond of Henry II., and the former residence of the Lords de Clifford. The scenery in the environment of these beautiful ruins is most charming. The route from Hay may be taken in this direction if desired. (A toll of 9d. has to be paid to cross the river.)

WHITNEY

The village of Whitney is surrounded by a rich belt of pasture-land interspersed with clumps of trees, and exceedingly beautiful scenery is to be found upon the river-banks. There is no ancient church, for it was washed away in a flood in the early part of the eighteenth century. The beautiful views seen at Whitney unfold themselves more and more as one reaches Letton, Merbach Hill upon the right, rising high out of the ground like a hog's back, giving a characteristic touch to the scenery. At Letton a particularly beautiful group of black-and-white timbered cottages stand by the side of the road, and remind one that English soil has been reached, and that the never-ending monotony of the Welsh whitewashed cottages has at last been left behind. At Staunton, on the Wye, a little Early English church is perched above the village. On the right there formerly stood a castle, and near it is Moccas Park, the residence of Royalty in Saxon times. The present owners are descended from Richard, the second son of King John. After passing Byford a portion of Offa's Dyke occurs upon the left, crossing over Mansell Hill. Some quaintly-cut yew-trees may be seen near the Kite's Nest Inn, and just before entering Hereford, at White Cross, an interesting cross is noticeable. It was put up in 1347 by Bishop Charlton to commemorate the disappearance of the Black Plague, and was restored by Archdeacon Lord Saye and Sele.

HEREFORD

is a pleasantly-situated town, but if it were not for the possession of a cathedral the place would not offer any particular attractions for visitors beyond the charming river scenery common to the Wye Valley.

Hereford became a separate see in 673, and Putta was the first Bishop. The first church was rebuilt in a better fashion when the remains of the murdered Ethelbert were brought to Hereford, but this pre-Norman structure was burnt by the Welsh in 1055. In 1079 Robert of Lorraine, the first Norman Bishop, began the cathedral of which much exists at the present day, using dark red sandstone. The choir up to the clerestory, the arcades of the nave, and the south transept, are Norman work of this early date.

The beautiful Lady Chapel, and the clerestory of the choir are Early English. The north and both the eastern transepts, part of tower, and the chapter-house, are Decorated. The chantries, sacristy, and a few other parts, are Perpendicular. The western tower fell in 1786, and brought down with it the west front and the first bay of the nave. This disaster accounts for the modern west front. Upon entering the nave the Norman bays are singularly impressive, especially the carved capitals. The choir is entered through a metal chancel screen; the stalls are richly carved, and 'the chair of King Stephen' is preserved in it. Scattered about in the great building there are probably more monumental tombs and effigies than in any other cathedral, and this is especially true with regard to ecclesiastics. Two notable monuments are those of Bishop Aquablanca (1245-1268), and the shrine of St. Thomas of Cantilupe in the north transept. A famous archÆological treasure, the Mappa Mundi, a map of the world, drawn on one large sheet of parchment in the thirteenth century by Richard de Haldingham, is preserved in this building, and may be seen upon application. The Bishop's Palace is close to the Wye, on the south side of the cathedral.

The Shire Hall, a Grecian Doric building, standing in St. Peter's Square, was erected in the early part of the last century.

The Castle Green is the site of the vanished Castle of Hereford; it is one of the prettiest parts of the town. Hereford contains some interesting houses, and three of them, now used as a bank, may be seen in the High Town. It was at one time the Butchers' Guildhall, and the carving upon the outside, as well as the inside, is extremely ornate.