FIRST PORTION: SHREWSBURY, WHITCHURCH, CHESTER—SECOND PORTION: CHESTER, MOLD, ST. ASAPH, RHYL—THIRD PORTION: RHYL, DENBIGH, RUTHIN, CORWEN, LLANGOLLEN, RUABON, WREXHAM, ELLESMERE, SHREWSBURY

SHREWSBURY TO CHESTER, 39½ MILES

DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE

Miles.
Shrewsbury to Wem Church	10	¾
Wem Church to Whitchurch	8	¾
Whitchurch to Broxton	10
Broxton to Chester	10

NOTES FOR DRIVERS

On leaving Shrewsbury, descent of 1 in 10 in the town; dangerous.

Road to Chester usually in good condition; surface splendid; no steep gradients.

Between Shrewsbury and Wem, undulating.

From Whitchurch, general fall from about 400 feet to sea-level at Chester.

PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE

Battlefield of Shrewsbury, 1403.—About 3 miles from Shrewsbury; Battlefield Church, Perpendicular.

Wem.—Obelisk to Rowland Hill.

Whitchurch.—Busy country town; church dating from 1711.

Rowton Moor.—Three miles from Chester; battlefield, 1645.

Chester.—One of the most picturesque walled towns in England; Cathedral; town walls; the 'Rows' and other old houses.

Leaving Shrewsbury by the Battlefield Road, and passing through the unprepossessing parts of the old town, the church standing upon the site of the battle becomes a conspicuous object when the higher ground is reached, about a mile from the town. This remarkable memorial of the terrible slaughter which took place in 1403 is necessarily of the Perpendicular period, and at the present time is a simple parish church, to which flocks a congregation eminently agricultural. Restorations have taken place at various periods, but sufficient remains of the original to make it of great interest. The site is that upon which the fiercest part of the battle occurred, and where, after the fight, the dead were crowded by hundreds into vast pits; for the slaughter upon that fatal day was tremendous, numbering probably 8,000 men. The army of Glendower, the Mortimers, and the Percies lost 5,000 men by the most moderate estimate, and that of the victor, Henry of Bolingbroke, was but little less, chiefly owing to the deadly accuracy of the Cheshire bowmen of Percy's army, who at first almost succeeded in winning the fray. But the King's army was double the number of his opponents, and that always told in a civil war. For three hours before sunset the struggle waged round the site of the church, and when at last Percy's army broke and fled, they made for Wem to the north, or the higher, wooded ground to the east. The road to Whitchurch passes through Wem, from which Hawkstone Park may be seen towards the west upon high ground, and the obelisk to Rowland Hill. The scenery upon the route is eminently characteristic of English pastoral life, with farmsteads and cottages nestling in charming seclusion amid a wealth of foliage, or upon the summits of the small undulations which diversify the Shropshire plain. At intervals stretches of heath alternate with the cultivation, while along the whole route the Welsh mountains form a broken sky-line to the west.

Whitchurch is a busy country town with a market, and forms a centre for the trade of the district. The remains of the castle which once existed here were visible down to 1760, but now no traces can be seen.

The Church.—The old church of Whitchurch fell in 1711, and the edifice built upon the site is in heavy Romanesque architecture. There are monuments in it to the Earls of Shrewsbury, one in armour being representative of John, the first Earl, who was killed at Bordeaux in 1453, and whose remains were brought from France to be interred here.

Soon after leaving Whitchurch, Overton Scar forms a conspicuous feature in the landscape, lying to the left near the vale of the Dee.

Cholmondeley Castle, three miles to the west of Malpas Station, is the seat of the Marquis of Cholmondeley, and is situated in the Peckforton Hills. The younger son of David le Clare settled here in Norman times. The present castle is a modern building erected in the Norman style, while the old hall, of Elizabethan foundation, was, unfortunately, placed in the hands of Vanbrugh for restoration, and became so completely altered in appearance that one would hardly guess its origin. The district lying around these hills was the scene of many encounters between the Royalists and Parliamentarians. Near Broxton Station stands Carden Hall, one of the most beautiful examples of timbered mansions in the country. It was built in the time of Elizabeth, but the Cardens were here in the reign of Henry VIII. The Hall was garrisoned by the Royalists, but after being captured by the other side was plundered, like most of the mansions in this county. About a mile farther on Aldersey Hall stands to the left, about ten furlongs from the road. It is asserted that it has been occupied by the family of that name since the Norman Conquest.

In Handley Church a good brass may be seen of the Venables family, and Calveley Hall, once a manor-house and now converted into a farmhouse, has a good oak staircase and some excellent wainscotting in the rooms.

Rowton Moor is reached next, where the Royalists suffered a defeat in 1645. The road passes through the battlefield.

CHESTER

From Shrewsbury the road into Chester leads into Foregate Street, and presently, after passing through a street of uninteresting suburban character, the city proper is entered by the east gate in the walls, the archway of which passes over the road. Upon the left is the Grosvenor, a comfortable and well-managed hotel, conveniently situated as a centre for seeing the many features of interest in Chester. The journey from London along the Watling Street has been upon the track of the Roman legions, and here at Chester—the ancient Deva—is found the ultimate object of their journey, for this was the headquarters of the famous Twentieth Legion, which occupied the town shortly before the Boadicean Rebellion in A.D. 61, and remained there until the evacuation of Britain in the early part of the fifth century. The old town is suggestive of Rome's imperial power, for the ichnography of the city to-day resembles in a remarkable fashion the great military castra of the conquerors of the world.

One of the first objects of interest is the Cathedral, situated about two minutes from the hotel by passing up Werburgh Street. It is one of the red cathedrals, and owing to the sandstone of which it is composed being of a friable nature, the veneering of the edifice with new stone unfortunately deprives it of that aspect of age so characteristic of the majority of the great churches of England. The earliest building standing on the site is said to have been put up in the second century, but of that no traces exist. The present structure dates from the twelfth century, and has architecture as recent as the sixteenth. Upon entering by the west door some Norman work is apparent at the end of the nave, but its general style is Perpendicular; there is no triforium, and the fenestration springs directly above the arches, where an unornamental balustrading breaks the junction. The huge Perpendicular window at the west end is not of any particular merit. The large south transept was until recently used as a parish church, and is remarkably spacious; it is late Decorated, and possesses beautiful tracery in the window of the west aisle. Passing into the choir, which is early Decorated, and has been completely restored, one finds some exquisite work in the canopies of the stalls, which are undoubtedly the finest in the kingdom. Especially interesting are the quaint misereres; the Bishop's throne and pulpit are, however, modern. A characteristic feature of architecture occurs in the triforium, where four arches are superposed upon each of the bays below them. In the north aisle wall are preserved some magnificent mosaics, presented to the cathedral in 1886. The screen across the choir is Perpendicular, and of singular beauty, but it prevents the eye from perceiving the full length of the church, making it appear shorter than is actually the case. The north transept is small, with Norman work below and Perpendicular above. It will readily be seen that there are two periods in the Norman work. The large tomb on the floor of this transept is the resting-place of Bishop Pearson, who died in 1696. He is well known for his work on the Creed. The cloisters are entered through a Norman doorway at the east end of the north wall of the nave; the style throughout is Perpendicular, and the work on three sides of the square is picturesque; the south side, which had perished, has been rebuilt. An early Norman passage lies along the west side of the cloister. The chapter-house, which may be entered from this spot, is exceptionally worthy of a visit. It is of Early English architecture and a beautiful example of the style; the vestibule is, perhaps, more chaste than the chapter-house, and the manner in which the mouldings of the pillars run up unbroken into the vaulting is a striking feature.

Upon leaving the cathedral by the same door at the west front and turning to the right, the imposing Town Hall is seen in Northgate Street, and opposite to it is the abbey gateway, a fine example of Norman and Early English work, deserving more than a passing glance. Continuing up Northgate Street, the Town Walls are reached, and can be climbed by steps; the masonry here is probably of Roman origin. A few paces to the right lead to the Phoenix Tower (entrance 1d.), from the summit of which Charles I. witnessed the defeat of his troops on Rowton Moor, September 27, 1645, and not September 24, as stated on the tablet. Retracing one's steps, the Shropshire Union Canal lies below, occupying a portion of the ancient moat. The raised platform upon the right which is now encountered affords a very fine view of the surrounding country, and beyond is the Half-moon Tower, called 'Pemberton's Parlour.' From here the battlements lead to Bonwaldesthorne's Tower, now used as a museum, and upon the level sward below the visitor may perceive a number of Roman remains, including a hypocaust, or warming apparatus, altars, and other remains. The projecting isolated defence at this point is known as the Water Tower. Continuing the walk, the well-known racecourse, called the 'Roodee,' or 'Isle of the Cross,' is seen upon the right, enclosed by a loop in the river, and presently the group of buildings, consisting of the assize courts, gaol, and barracks, appear upon the left, the whole being classified under the name of 'the Castle.' The picturesque old bridge is next encountered, and here it is advisable to leave the walls, as the remainder of the route is devoid of interest.

Passing up Bridge Street, the third turning upon the right is Pepper Street, and after traversing this strangely named thoroughfare, the Church of St. John the Baptist is soon reached, one of the most interesting buildings in the city. It was originally intended to be the cathedral for the former diocese, which embraced practically the whole of Mercia, but the dignity was conferred upon Coventry. The ruins consist of very picturesque Norman work, with Norman and Early English flanking arches. By applying to the sexton, who is usually in the church, the Norman crypt may be visited. The nave of the church has Norman cylindrical pillars, dating from about 1090; the triforium arches are Early English of about a century later. A very fine lancet window is at the west end. The central tower fell in 1574, and crushed the east end of the church, which has never been rebuilt. The base of the tower shows rich Norman arches, with clustered columns supporting them. Traces of frescoes may be seen here. There are many displaced monuments now resting at the west end; one, a knight, dates from c. 1240, and a lady from c. 1400.

Retracing one's steps through Pepper Street, and passing up Bridge Street, St. Peter's Church is reached. It was built on the site of the Roman PrÆtorium, and in A.D. 907 the Church of SS. Peter and Paul was removed here by Ethelfleda from the site of St. Werburgh's. The edifice is mentioned in Domesday as the Church of St. Peter. The rectors' names are preserved from 1195. The church is square in plan, and consists only of four aisles; the architecture is Perpendicular, and rude Georgian galleries disfigure two of the aisles. The far-famed Rows of Chester may be visited from this point; they are found in Eastgate Street and Bridge Street in particular, but Watergate Row should on no account be missed, because two houses of the south side are striking specimens of seventeenth-century architecture. One bears the inscription 'God's Providence is mine inheritance,' which is supposed to allude to the preservation of the family occupying it from the plague. On the same side, No. 11, is a remarkable medieval crypt, now occupied by Quellyn Roberts and Co., wine merchants, who readily allow visitors to descend into the vaulted chamber.

This list of interesting sights of Chester is by no means exhaustive; an exploration of the streets in almost any direction will afford glimpses of old-time quaintnesses nestling in unsuspected byways, and the eye can dwell with pleasure upon many architectural details and rich colour schemes.

LOOP No. 1—SECOND PORTION
CHESTER TO MOLD AND RHYL, 35½ MILES

DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE

Miles.
Chester to Broughton	5
Broughton to Mold	7
Mold to Caerwys	9	½
Caerwys to St. Asaph	8
St. Asaph to Rhuddlan	3	¼
Rhuddlan to Rhyl	2	¾

NOTES FOR DRIVERS

Chester to Mold.—Tramcar-lines to Saltney, flat; then splendid surface.

Broughton.—Ascent 1 in 21; then level to Mold.

Mold.—Fairly long hills to Caerwys; then level to Rhyl, except a descent near Trefnant.

PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE

Mold.—Small county town; church of florid Henry VII. architecture; Bailey Hill, site of a British fortress; scene of the 'Alleluia Victory.'

Cilcain.—Church with magnificent oak roof.

Caerwys.—Pretty scenery; the residence of Llewelyn.

Bodfari.—Roman station.

St. Asaph.—Small town, with cathedral, smallest in England and Wales.

Rhuddlan.—Edwardian castle, ruins.

Morfa Rhuddlan.—Scene of a great battle between Offa of Mercia and Caradoc.

Rhyl.—Watering-place; splendid sands.

On leaving Chester the Grosvenor Bridge is crossed, and as far as Saltney the road is occupied by tram-lines, while on looking backwards a fine view of the city walls is obtained. After Saltney an excellent road through the marshes enables one to see the wide estuary of the river; but at Broughton, where the left-hand road should be taken, a stiff rise of two miles leads to a plateau with an average elevation of nearly 500 feet above sea-level, upon which the road remains for the next twelve miles. The country here is well wooded, and Halkin Mountain presents a fine appearance in front. The outskirts of a small colliery district, with its centre at Buckley, are passed near Padeswood, and presently Mold, the county town of Flint, is reached.

MOLD

The town, which is rather sleepy and depressing, contains a church at the summit of a steep hill to the right, thoroughly rebuilt in the florid Tudor period early in the sixteenth century. The nave has some ornate four-centred arches, and in the chancel some reputed eighth-century work has been incorporated.

Behind the church is the commencement of the ascent to Bailey Hill, an eminence partly natural and partly artificial. It was once a British fortress, and was subsequently occupied by a medieval castle, now entirely vanished, and pleasure-grounds occupy the site. In the immediate neighbourhood of Mold there are many objects of considerable interest to the antiquary and geologist, such as the site of the 'Alleluia Victory,' won by an army of Christian converts under Germanus, and who, by shouting 'Alleluia!' struck the Picts and Scots, to whom they were opposed, with panic. In 1833 a gold breastplate of Celtic workmanship was unearthed near the town, and is now a treasured object in the British Museum. The ascent of Moel Fammau, 1,823 feet, the highest peak in the Clwydian range, from which a magnificent panorama is obtained, is easily accomplished from this town.

Mold was once a flourishing place, with mines and smelting-works in its vicinity, but they have now become unprofitable, with the inevitable result of lowering the vitality of the town. The road leading to St. Asaph passes a few coalpits near Mold, but presently winds about in a valley between the Clwydian Range and the Halkin Mountain. The village of Cilcain lies to the left of the route, at a distance of two miles, on the lower slopes of Moel Fammau, and is noted for the magnificent carved oak roof of its church, brought from Basingwerke Abbey, near Holywell. Nature is now in her pleasantest mood, and as the road winds with many a sharp turn down the long slope towards Caerwys, the mountains on both sides become softened and rounded, and clothed in many parts with trees to their summits. Upon the hills to the left lie a succession of interesting British camps, the strongest and most extensive being Moel Arthur, 1,494 feet, reached just before Nannerch appears by a road which branches off close to a stone circle. Caerwys is believed to have been a Roman station. It was at one time celebrated for its meetings of the bards, or Eisteddfodau, and also as being the residence of the last native Welsh Prince, Llewelyn ap Gruffydd. The whole of this district is rich in memories of the past, and abounds in interest. After passing Bodfari, where the railway crosses the road, a bridge over the River Clwyd is reached, and directly afterwards the turn to the right should be taken. (That to the left leads to Denbigh.)

At this point one says good-bye to the track of the Roman legions, Bodfari (Vara) being the last of the stations to be passed. The Roman road went straight ahead towards the west, and finished at Segontium, which will be seen when passing through Carnarvon. Thus, nearly all the way, from St. Albans through Shrewsbury to Chester, the Watling Street has been followed.

ST. ASAPH

This small village-city of 2,000 inhabitants is of consequence only on account of its cathedral, conspicuously placed upon high ground, and a prominent feature for many miles. To reach the time when this ancient see did not exist, one must travel back before the sixth century. The first building, of wood, was destroyed by fire in 1282, and the edifice which succeeded it was nearly razed to the ground during the wars under Owen Glendower. The present church practically dates from 1482; the choir, however, was not completed until 1770. It was restored by Sir Gilbert Scott. St. Asaph is the smallest British cathedral, being 182 feet long and 68 feet across the nave. The interior presents the aspect of a spacious parish church, and possesses only a few objects of interest. The east window is Decorated, and the tracery of the side-windows based upon traces of Early English work. The effigy of an Abbot in Episcopal robes, and probably dating from the fifteenth century, lies in the south transept. The road out of St. Asaph descends a steep hill, requiring caution, and a run of about three miles along a level road, with a sharp turning to the right over a bridge, leads to

RHUDDLAN CASTLE

The entrance to the Vale of Clwyd is one of the chief strategic points in Wales, and the elevated knob upon which the castle stands has, from the most remote antiquity, been a place of strength. The early Welsh fortress had additions early in the tenth century; it was taken by the nephew of the Earl of Chester in 1098, and enlarged about sixty years afterwards. The Welsh, however, captured it from the English in 1167, and Llewelyn subsequently held it; but Edward I. gained possession, and built the whole castle anew in 1277 upon an adjacent site. The enormous walls, impressively grand in their massive proportions, are his work. The castle appears to have remained in an efficient condition to the time of the Civil War, when it was held by the Royalists; but General Mytton captured it in 1646, and not long afterwards it was dismantled. As one stands on the site, one endeavours to visualize some of the many scenes of desperate warfare which have happened upon and around this bold sandstone bluff, and the cattle standing knee-deep in the translucent waters of the Clwyd, and lazily brushing aside the clouds of flies, seem strangely out of harmony with the memory of the wild hordes that have dashed against these frowning walls. Within its easily traced fosse, and enclosing a large area, there was formerly a priory of Dominicans, which has now disappeared, but relics of it are preserved in Rhuddlan Church. From the grassy strath within the walls the level plain reaching to Rhyl is spread out very distinctly, and if the eye is allowed to wander to Morfa Rhuddlan, which lies like a great alluvial marsh within the triangle of Rhyl, Abergele, and Rhuddlan, the most desolate stretch in Cambria, the site of that great battle in 795 is seen, when Offa, the great king of Mercia, defeated the hordes of Caradoc, the king of North Wales, with terrific slaughter. There probably exists no more pathetic wail—the death-sob of a great nation—than that of 'Morfa Rhuddlan,' which, next to the 'Men of Harlech,' is the most sung of Welsh airs.

The road to Rhyl is gained by passing through the village and taking the first road to the left. This takes one directly to the esplanade opposite the pier, where the Belvoir, a comfortable hotel, stands in a convenient position.

RHYL

Rhyl is essentially a watering-place, a watering-place pure and simple, and it does not pretend to be anything else. Its bathing facilities are magnificent, its sands are excellent for a gallop, and the beau idÉal of parents with families, who fear that their offspring may meet disaster unless a smooth sweep of sand is available. It is healthy, bracing, peaceful, an excellent 'brain-emptier'—and that means much to the jaded man. He may be exasperated by the pier entrance, which can only be termed doubly debased Scottish architecture, but architecture by the sea is seldom free from glaring faults. As a jumping-off ground for the Vale of the Clwyd, and for the sea-gate of Wales at Abergele, it is convenient both by road and rail.

LOOP No. 1—THIRD PORTION
RHYL TO CORWEN, LLANGOLLEN, WREXHAM, AND SHREWSBURY, 86½ MILES

DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE

Miles.
Rhyl to Denbigh	15
Denbigh to Ruthin	7	¾
Ruthin to Corwen	12	½
Corwen to Llangollen	10
Llangollen to Wrexham	12	¼
Wrexham to Ellesmere	16	½
Ellesmere to Shrewsbury	12	½

NOTES FOR DRIVERS

Rhyl to Trefnant.—A good road.

Trefnant.—Ascent 1 in 14, then good to Denbigh.

Denbigh to Ruthin.—Undulating; steep ascent in Ruthin, 1 in 11, then good road until 2 miles from Corwen, when there is a descent of 1 in 13.

Corwen to Llangollen.—Slightly hilly; first-class surface.

Llangollen to Wrexham.—Llangollen to Trevor excellent; Trevor to Ruabon bumpy, then fairly good to Wrexham.

Wrexham to Ellesmere.—Steep hill 1 mile from Wrexham, then exceptionally good to Ellesmere; afterwards undulating to Shrewsbury.

PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE

Bodelwyddan Church.—Two miles from Rhuddlan, off the road; excellent example of modern architecture.

Cefn Caves.—Three miles from St. Asaph, or 2½ miles from Trefnant, off the road.

Denbigh.—The castle; ruins of the garrison church.

Llanrhaiadr.—Church, with fifteenth century 'Jesse' window.

Ruthin.—Castle, with beautiful surroundings; church, Perpendicular, with splendid roof.

Corwen.—Church, with eighth-century cross in churchyard.

Llangollen.—Valle Crucis Abbey; Eliseg Pillar; Dinas Bran castle; Plas Newydd, the Bridge.

Ruabon.—Church; Wynnstay Park and Monument.

Wrexham.—Church, one of the Seven Wonders of Wales, Perpendicular architecture.

Ellesmere.—Church, with hatchet-work screen; old timbered houses; picturesque lakes.

Loop 1 (Third Portion).
DENBIGH TO SHREWSBURY.
[For the route from Rhyl to Denbigh see previous map.]

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