Tyrol and Its People

Transcriber's Note:

Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have been preserved. Anglicized, archaic, or otherwise unusual spellings of proper nouns were retained as printed. Examples include "Botzen", "Kapuzingerberg", "Schonberg" and "Wencelaus". Inconsistent use of diacritics was also retained as printed. Obvious typographical errors were corrected.

Book Spine

Map of Tyrol

A MAP TO ILLUSTRATE TYROL AND ITS PEOPLE

TYROL AND ITS PEOPLE

The Goat Herd

THE GOAT HERD, KASTELRUTH, NEAR BOZEN

TYROL
AND ITS PEOPLE

BY
CLIVE HOLLAND

WITH SIXTEEN ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR BY
ADRIAN STOKES
THIRTY-ONE OTHER ILLUSTRATIONS
AND A MAP

METHUEN AND CO.
36 ESSEX STREET W.C.
LONDON

First Published in 1909

PREFACE

In the following pages, which in addition to being a record of travel in a delightful and too little known portion of the great Austro-Hungarian Empire, are also an attempt to present within a reasonable compass an account of the national history of a singularly interesting people, the author has sought to deal more fully than is usually the case in books of the kind, with the romance and legend which is closely interwoven with the past of "the land within the mountains," as Tyrol has not inaptly been described.

It is truly a land of mountains, valleys, lakes, and rushing torrents that may well have bred the race of romance-loving, poetic, and hardy people who dwell in it. In the minds of those who know it there arises almost inevitably a comparison with the nowadays overcrowded and over-exploited Switzerland—and the comparison is, both as regards scenery and general interest, greatly in favour of Tyrol. The tourist and holiday-maker who frequent Pontresina or St. Moritz will find in this comparatively new "playground for Europe" beautiful counterparts of those places in Innsbruck, Meran, Botzen, KitzbÜhel, and other delightful towns; whilst the more strenuously inclined who delight in mountain ascents will find the Dolomite region especially attractive, and in many other districts also interesting climbs. By the shores of the placid, translucent lakes, and in many a happy, secluded valley, those in search of rest and quietude will find their desire fully satisfied. And in such old-world towns as Innsbruck (of many historical memories), beautiful Salzburg, charming Bregenz, Botzen, and Meran the traveller with more artistic, literary, or antiquarian tastes will delight.

That Tyrol deserves to be better known few who have once come under the spell of its charms of scenery, and the frank hospitality and friendliness of its people, or have wandered amidst its lovely valleys and mountains, will deny.

The early history of this interesting country is shrouded in much mystery, and to place accurately and date many events is a matter of very considerable difficulty, and in some cases of well-nigh impossibility, owing to the fragmentary nature of many of the existing records, and the contradictory nature of the accounts and evidence afforded by these. The greatest care, however, has been taken to make the dates given as accurate as possible, and the best authorities and descriptions of events have been consulted. Amongst others the works of Dr. Franz Wieser, Hans Semper, Von Alpenburg ("Mythen und Sagen Tirols"), Perini ("Castles of Tyrol"), Weber ("The Land of Tyrol"), an excellent and interesting anonymous guide to Salzburg, Scherer, Albert Wolff, V. Zingerle, Steub ("Die Verfassung Tirols"), Miller, and the excellent publications of the Tirol and Salzburg Landesverbaende fÜr Fremdenverkehr, and other organizations.

The spelling of names has presented much the same difficulty as the correct dating of events. There are several, and in some cases many, ways of spelling a large number of these. That of the latest edition of Baedeker has been adopted where this has been the case and doubt has existed.

The author's especial thanks are due to Herr L. Sigmund, the Secretary of the Austrian Travel and Information Bureau, not only for much valuable information, but also for practical assistance whilst travelling in Tyrol, facilities afforded for research, and the use of some excellent photographs.

To W. Baillie Grohman, Esq., of Schloss Matzen, Brixlegg, the well-known authority upon Tyrol, for the settlement of several disputed dates and accounts of historical events. Also for permission to make use of information (not otherwise easily procurable) contained in his exhaustive work "Tyrol, the Land in the Mountains," and for the beautiful photograph of Schloss Matzen reproduced as one of the illustrations in this present volume.

To Dr. Richard Muendl, Imperial Councillor, Chief Inspector of the Imperial Southern Railway, and a member of the German and Austrian Alpine Society, for many valuable notes upon the Dolomite Region incorporated in Chapter X.

To Dr. Otto Rosenheim the author's thanks are given for permission to reproduce some beautiful photographs of Tyrol scenery and Tyrolese subjects in place of less pictorial work by the author himself.

To many others, who gave information to the author during his travels in Tyrol, relating to many interesting matters, acknowledgment is also here gratefully made.

C. H.
June, 1909

	CHAPTER I	PAGE
THE ROMANCE AND HISTORY OF TYROL FROM THE EARLIEST TIMES DOWN TO THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY		1
	CHAPTER II
TYROL FROM ITS INCORPORATION BY AUSTRIA AS A PART OF THE EMPIRE TO THE PRESENT TIME		33
	CHAPTER III
SOME CHARACTERISTIC LEGENDS, CUSTOMS, AND SPORTS		52
	CHAPTER IV
INNSBRUCK, ITS HISTORY, PEOPLE AND TREASURES		71
	CHAPTER V
THE ENVIRONS OF INNSBRUCK—CASTLE AMBRAS AND ITS TREASURES—IGLS: A QUAINT LEGEND CONCERNING ITS CHURCH—THE STUBAI VALLEY, AND SOME VILLAGES—HALL AND ITS SALT MINES—SPECKBACHER'S OLD HOME—ST. MICHAEL		113
	CHAPTER VI
SALZBURG, ITS HISTORY AND ROMANCE		147
	CHAPTER VII
THE ENVIRONS OF SALZBURG—HELLBRUNN, ITS UNIQUE FOUNTAINS AND GARDENS—THE CASTLE OF ANIF—THE GAISBERG—THE KAPUZINGERBERG—THE MOZART-HÄUSCHEN—THE MÖNCHSBERG—SALZBURG CHURCHES		176
	CHAPTER VIII
SOME TOWNS AND VILLAGES OF SOUTH TYROL—MERAN, BOZEN, KLAUSEN, BRIXEN, SPINGES, STERZING, MATREI		192
	CHAPTER IX
SOME TOWNS AND VILLAGES OF WALSCH-TYROL: TRENT, ITS HISTORY, COUNCIL, AND BUILDINGS—ROVEREDO AND DANTE—ARCO—RIVA		233
	CHAPTER X
AMONG THE DOLOMITES, WITH NOTES UPON SOME TOURS AND ASCENTS		254
	CHAPTER XI
THROUGH THE UNTER-INNTHAL: KUFSTEIN—KUNDL—RATTENBERG, AND THE STORY OF WILHELM BIENER—BRIXLEGG, AND ITS PEASANT DRAMAS—THE FAMOUS CASTLE OF MATZEN—ST. GEORGENBERG, AND ITS PILGRIMAGE CHURCH—CASTLE TRATZBERG—SCHWAZ		281
	CHAPTER XII
THROUGH THE OBER-INNTHAL: ZIRL, ITS CHURCH, LEGENDS, AND PAINTED HOUSES—THE MARTINSWAND AND MAXIMILIAN—SCHARNITZ—LANDECK—BLUDENZ—BREGENZ AND ITS LEGEND OF THE MAID		311
INDEX		329

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

IN COLOUR

	FACING PAGE
THE GOAT HERD, KASTELRUTH, NEAR BOZEN	Frontispiece
VIEW FROM THE RITTEN, LOOKING SOUTH-WEST	28
THE SCHWARZHORN, SOUTH TYROL	40
A VIEW OF THE TYROL ALPS	54
THE ORTLER FROM THE MALSER HEIDE	68
MOONRISE IN TYROL	94
A PINE WOOD NEAR INNSBRUCK	108
MOUNTAIN POOL ON THE RITTEN	128
A QUIET PASTURE	166
WINTER NEAR MERAN	192
A SOUTH TYROL FARMSTEAD	208
SUMMER-TIME NEAR ST. ULRICH, GRÖDENERTHAL	226
ALPENWIESE, ON THE SEISER ALP	256
MOUNT LATEMAR	276
A WAYSIDE SHRINE IN A PINE WOOD	298
AUTUMN IN SOUTH TYROL	314

IN MONOTONE

	FACING PAGE
A VILLAGE ON THE BRENNER	10
From a Photograph by Dr. Otto Rosenheim
YOUNG TYROL	18
From a Photograph by Dr. Otto Rosenheim
A WAYSIDE SHRINE, TYROL	24
From a Photograph by Dr. Otto Rosenheim
ABOVE THE ARLBERG TUNNEL	32
SUNSET ON A TYROLESE LAKE	36
From a Photograph by Clive Holland
A TYPICAL TYROLESE LANDSCAPE	36
From a Photograph by Clive Holland
THE TRISANNA VIADUCT AND CASTLE WIESBERG	72
A PEEP OF THE ZILLERTHAL	72
THE FAMOUS "GOLDEN ROOF," INNSBRUCK	78
A TYPICAL INNSBRUCKER	88
VIADUCT ON STUBAI RAILWAY	130
VIEW OF THE GROSSGLOCKNER	130
THE MARKET PLACE, HALL	134
THE HALL VALLEY—WINTER	142
MOZART'S HOUSE IN THE MAKART PLATZ, SALZBURG	152
From a Photograph by Clive Holland
ONE OF THE FINEST DOORS OF THE STATE APARTMENTS IN THE FORTRESS, SALZBURG	164
From a Photograph by Clive Holland
MOUNTAIN PASTURES	178
From a Photograph by Dr. Otto Rosenheim
HOHEN-SALZBURG AND THE NONNBERG	182
From a Photograph by Clive Holland
SALZBURG MARKETWOMEN	190
From a Photograph by Clive Holland
MERAN	198
SCHLOSS TYROL, NEAR MERAN	202
A STREET IN BOZEN	206
ST. CYPRIAN AND THE PEAKS OF THE ROSENGARTEN	212
MISURINA LAKE	262
From a Photograph by Dr. Otto Rosenheim
A ROAD THROUGH THE DOLOMITES	264
A PEEP OF THE DOLOMITES	270
From a Photograph by Clive Holland
THE LANGKOFEL	272
From a Photograph by Dr. Otto Rosenheim
A PEEP OF KITZBUHEL	286
SCHLOSS MATZEN	294
By kind permission of W. A. Baillie Grohman, Esq.
LANDECK AND ITS ANCIENT FORTRESS	320
CHURCH INTERIOR, TYROL	324
From a Photograph by Clive Holland

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PREFACE

CONTENTS

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

IN COLOUR

IN MONOTONE